LexieLejas

Liten uppfödning av sunda rastypiska affenpinscher med bra temperament i hemmiljö. Alla valpar registreras registreras i SKK och levereras enl deras regler.

URAX

German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh)

German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Germany (Deutsch-Kurzhaar-Verband)

The Kennel Club (UK)

Norwegian German Shorthaired Pointer Club (Norsk Vorstehhundklubb)

Svenska Vorstehklubben (Swedish Pointing Dog Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh) is a medium‑large, athletic gundog with a short, shedding coat and striking liver-and-white patterns. Energetic, people-focused and intelligent, it needs extensive daily exercise, positive training, and close family contact to stay calm and content.

Bjerkeskogens

Okej's kennel

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

## Quick Facts

A Havapoo is a cross between a Havanese and a Poodle, not a breed with one shared standard. The name therefore tells you which breeds are in the dog’s background, but not exactly how large the dog will become or which coat and personality it will have.

- **Background:** Havanese and Poodle; the Havapoo is a cross, not a recognised breed
- **Size:** varies mainly with the Poodle variety, the parent dogs and their family lines
- **Coat:** may be wavy, curly or somewhere in between; the actual coat determines the care required
- **Activity level:** a small, active dog that will generally need walks, scent work, training and rest
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to teach everyday skills, can maintain the coat and has time for gradual home-alone training

Labels such as F1 and F1b describe ancestry. F1 is the first-generation cross between the two parent breeds, while F1b means a backcross to one of them. These labels do not guarantee a particular size, suitability for someone with allergies, coat type or temperament. Ask for information about the exact parent dogs instead of deciding on the generation label alone.

## Appearance & Coat

A Havapoo’s adult size cannot be predicted reliably without knowing which Poodle variety was used and the sizes of the parents and their adult relatives. For context, the breed standards specify 23–27 centimetres for the Havanese, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, over 24–28 centimetres for the Toy Poodle and over 28–35 centimetres for the Miniature Poodle. A crossbred puppy does not have to end up halfway between its parents or even within a quoted average. Ask to see both parents and their height and weight, as well as the sizes of previous offspring once fully grown where that information is available.

Coats can also vary noticeably within the same litter. Under its standard, the Havanese has a long, soft, straight or wavy coat with little or no woolly undercoat. The Poodle has a dense, woolly and curly coat. A Havapoo may inherit different combinations of these traits, and a puppy coat does not always show how the adult coat will behave. Colour and markings say nothing about grooming needs, health or temperament.

No Havapoo can be guaranteed to be suitable for someone with a dog allergy. Dog allergens are found in saliva and skin material, among other sources, and individual dogs can differ even within the same litter. Low shedding or a curly coat therefore does not mean that a person with an allergy will tolerate the dog. Anyone with an allergy should discuss dog ownership with a healthcare professional and spend time with the individual dog on several occasions in the environment where contact will occur; even this cannot guarantee that problems will not develop later.

Coat care should follow the way the individual dog’s coat behaves. Comb all the way down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, around the harness, on the legs and wherever the coat is exposed to friction. If the comb catches or you cannot see the skin when parting the coat, the dog needs more frequent attention, a shorter coat or help from a professional groomer. Begin calm handling of the paws, face, ears and mouth early. A fixed schedule such as “brush three times a week” or “clip every eight weeks” is less useful than monitoring mats, coat length and the dog’s daily routine.

## Temperament & Personality

Havapoos are often described as sociable, cheerful and easy to teach because those traits appear in the ideals for the parent breeds, but a cross does not automatically receive the best of both. The Havanese standard calls for an affectionate, friendly, playful and cheerful dog. The Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to train. An individual Havapoo may nevertheless be more cautious, intense, vocal or independent than the simplified description suggests.

The parent dogs’ behaviour, family lines, early environment and the dog’s experiences are more informative than a general temperament promise. Meet the mother if possible and ask how both parents react to unfamiliar people, sounds, handling, other dogs and brief separation. Look for dogs that can recover after something unexpected, not merely dogs that are happy while everything is calm. Information about adult full and half-siblings can add useful context.

A Havapoo can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not a maintenance-free beginner’s dog. Coat care, home-alone training and the ability to notice early signs of stress take time. Alert barking and general vocal behaviour can also vary. The aim should be to teach the dog to move between activity and rest and to reward calm behaviour, not to assume that the cross will be quiet or sociable in every situation.

## Training & Exercise

A Havapoo needs regular movement and mental activity, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, body size, health, fitness and intensity determine what a good day should include. Combine walks with time to sniff, short training sessions, play and recovery. A dog receiving an appropriate amount of activity should be able to settle and remain comfortable during the quieter parts of the day.

Prioritise skills that make daily life safer: responding to the dog’s name, checking in with the handler, recall, loose-lead walking, calm passing of other dogs, a reliable place to rest and cooperative handling for coat and dental care. Reward-based training with clear breaks makes it easier to adjust the difficulty without fear, pain or harsh corrections. If the dog barks, first identify the context—such as anticipation, worry, sounds outside the home or excessive arousal—before choosing training and changes to the environment.

For a puppy, moving at its own pace, playing and exploring varied but safe surroundings are more useful than an exact minutes-based formula. Increase duration and difficulty gradually, allow the puppy to stop and do not make long, monotonous distances or repeated jumping a training goal. Adjust the plan to the individual’s recovery and seek veterinary advice for lameness, reluctance to move or recurring stiffness.

## Health

There is no single Havapoo health programme, so a meaningful health check must consider both parents and the exact Poodle variety. Crossing two breeds neither guarantees better health nor proves poorer health. There are no robust Havapoo-specific data that justify quoting confident frequencies for a long list of diseases.

For the Havanese parent, the Swedish breed club recommends, among other measures, examination of the kneecaps for patellar luxation, a current eye examination and heart auscultation before breeding. The club recommends patellar status 0/0, and results must be obtained at the appropriate age and remain current where the recommendation requires this. Also ask about movement problems affecting the front legs or back and about allergy problems in close relatives; this is relevant family information, not a claim that every Havapoo will be affected.

For the Poodle parent, the relevant checks depend on whether it is a Toy, Miniature, Medium or Standard Poodle. Knee examination results matter for Toy and Miniature Poodles, and the Swedish breed club’s strategy also includes eye examinations. Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles are covered by a formal health programme for prcd-PRA. The DNA result identifies the specific prcd form of PRA, not every form of PRA or every eye disease. A carrier need not be affected but, in Poodle breeding, must be paired with a genetically clear dog; an affected Poodle must not be used for breeding.

Ask for the registered names and identities of both parents, as well as copies or verifiable registrations of results, test dates and examination methods. Check that each document refers to the correct dog and test. Ask how old the parents and adult relatives are and whether the same problems recur in the family. A panel of DNA tests does not replace clinical examinations, the puppy’s veterinary health check or open information about family health.

## History & Origins

Havapoo is a modern crossbreed name, but there is no well-documented single founder, exact starting date or official breed development that can be presented as established history. Claims that the cross was created in a particular year in the United States should therefore be treated as unverified unless supported by a primary source.

The histories of the parent breeds are better documented. The Havanese descends from companion dogs from the western Mediterranean region that were developed further in Cuba; the breed was later preserved in part through dogs that reached the United States. The Poodle has a history linked to water retrieving and was developed in France into the size varieties and companion dog described by today’s standard.

The crossbreed name brings these two backgrounds together but does not create a uniform population with its own standard. Knowing the individual puppy’s parents, Poodle variety and family lines is therefore more useful than relying on a general Havapoo origin story.

## Living with the Breed

A Havapoo can live successfully in many types of home when the individual dog’s temperament, size and care needs fit the household. Children and dogs must always be supervised by an adult. Children should not carry the dog, disturb it while it is eating or sleeping, or force interaction. The dog needs a protected resting place and must be able to move away. This is especially important when the individual is small and can be injured by a fall or rough play.

Whether a Havapoo can live with a dog or cat depends on the animals’ previous experiences and a controlled introduction, not the crossbreed name. Start at a distance with brief, calm meetings, keep resources separate and provide the cat with escape routes beyond the dog’s reach. Do not leave the animals alone together until their behaviour is well understood.

Apartment living can work when the dog has regular access outdoors, can settle indoors and is trained for sounds in stairwells and from neighbours. A small body does not mean a small need for activity or a low noise level. Home-alone time should be built gradually from very short, comfortable periods. Video can help determine whether the dog is actually resting or showing signs of stress. A closed crate should not be used as an everyday solution for leaving a dog alone at home; Swedish rules restrict this form of confinement.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- Who are the parents, which Poodle variety was used and how large are they as adults?
- Are there fully grown previous offspring or close relatives whose size, coat and temperament can be compared?
- Which examinations were performed on each parent, when were they performed and where can the results be verified?
- How do the parents behave during handling, with unfamiliar people, around sounds, when meeting dogs and while resting?
- How have the puppies been introduced to coat care, everyday sounds, different surfaces, brief separation and calm human contact?
- What practical support will the breeder provide if the coat, behaviour or health develops differently from what was expected?

A good match is based on documented parent information and realistic daily requirements. Colour, a generation label or promises of a “hypoallergenic family dog” should never outweigh these checks.

Havapoo

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Havapoo is a small Havanese–Poodle cross with a cheerful, people‑focused nature and a soft wavy or curly coat that often sheds lightly. Intelligent, sensitive, and easy to train with gentle methods, it suits attentive owners seeking an affectionate indoor companion.

Vi på Berrys Kennel & Beko föder upp renrasiga Bichon Havanais och Havapoo. Vi är ett skatt- och momsregistrerat företag med över 15 års erfarenhet och tillstånd från Länsstyrelsen. Vi är hemma på heltid och uppfödningen är vår huvudsakliga sysselsättning, där vi lägger ner all vår tid, energi och kärlek på hundarna. Hos oss får varje individ den kärlek och omsorg de förtjänar, vilket resulterar i friska, glada och välanpassade fyrbenta familjemedlemmar.

Berrys Kennel & Beko

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Malinois is the short-coated variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. Under the FCI and the Swedish Kennel Club, the Malinois, Groenendael, Tervueren and Laekenois are four varieties of the same breed, distinguished chiefly by coat and colour.
- The Malinois is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog. The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females; the breed standard allows 2 cm below and 4 cm above the ideal.
- This is a watchful breed, quick in both thought and action, developed to work closely with people. Being quick to learn does not make a Malinois easy to live with: training also needs to develop calm behaviour, impulse control and recovery.
- A Malinois is best suited to someone who wants to train regularly and can provide both physical exercise and work for the nose and brain every day. Long walks alone rarely form a complete plan.
- Family dog, sport dog and service dog are not mutually exclusive roles, but the choice of breeder and litter matters greatly. Look at the parents’ everyday behaviour, temperament assessment, working achievements, health and previous offspring, not merely the breed name.

## Appearance & Coat

The Malinois should be medium-sized, square and powerful without looking heavy. Its body length should therefore be approximately equal to its height at the withers, rather than giving a distinctly long-bodied impression. The head is lean and well chiselled, the ears are small, triangular and erect, and movement should be light and lively.

The ideal height in the breed standard is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females, with a tolerance of 2 cm below and 4 cm above. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females. These figures describe an adult in normal condition; proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than a single reading on the scales.

The Malinois is short-coated. The hair is very short on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs, slightly fuller around the neck, thighs and tail, with a dense undercoat. The coat should be fawn with black overlay and a pronounced black mask. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes, but large white markings are outside the standard.

The coat does not require elaborate professional grooming. Brush it when hair is coming loose and bathe the dog when it is genuinely dirty. More frequent brushing is useful during shedding. After work in woodland, long grass or water, take the opportunity to check the skin, paws, nails and ears. The short coat makes inspection easy, but does not replace a regular hands-on check of the dog’s body.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Malinois is alert, active and very ready to act. At the same time, the breed ideal calls for a confident dog without fear or aggression. High intensity is not the same as poor emotional control, and a dog that is constantly stressed is not more typical simply because it is fast.

There is considerable variation between individuals. The Swedish Kennel Club tells prospective owners to expect differences both between the varieties and between individual dogs. A label such as “working, service or show line” is therefore not enough on which to base a decision. Ask to see how the parents greet people, recover after a surprise, accept handling, pass other dogs and settle when nothing is happening. Read the full Mentalbeskrivning Hund (MH), the Swedish working-dog temperament description, and ask how siblings and previous offspring cope with ordinary life.

A well-matched and well-managed Malinois can live successfully with children, but its speed and rapid reactions call for adult supervision. Children and dog should each have an undisturbed resting place, and boisterous games should stop before the dog begins to chase movement or becomes too aroused. Young children should never be responsible for training or walks. The same caution applies around cats, small animals and unfamiliar dogs: whether it works depends on the individual, previous experience and training. Introduce the animals gradually and make sure they can be kept apart.

## Training & Exercise

The Malinois needs physical and mental activity every day, but no credible fixed number of hours suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, the type of work and the ability to recover should guide the plan. A balanced week might combine walks and conditioning with tracking, scent work, obedience, working trials or another purposeful activity. The aim is not to make the dog as tired as possible, but to develop useful skills and a sustainable routine.

Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead walking, handling, stop and release cues, and the ability to wait and rest from an early age. Training should be reward-based, tailored to the individual and made harder gradually as the dog develops. Short, clear sessions with breaks often produce better work than repeating an exercise until the dog loses accuracy or becomes over-aroused.

Puppies and adolescents should not be exercised like fully grown service dogs. Develop strength, confidence in different environments and body awareness gradually, and do not let repetitive ball chasing, jumping or long runs become the entire activity plan. Watch movement and recovery. Stiffness, lameness, poorer concentration or an inability to settle after activity are reasons to reduce the load and, where necessary, consult a vet or an experienced instructor.

A first-time owner can succeed, but the learning curve is steep. A realistic plan includes access to a working-dog club or experienced trainer, support from the breeder and a clear idea of what the dog will do on dark weekday evenings and during periods when competition or service work is not taking place.

## Health

The Belgian Shepherd Dog is described as generally healthy and sound, but hips, elbows, epileptic-type seizures and back problems deserve particular attention. Before buying a puppy, it is important to distinguish binding registration rules from the breed club’s stricter breeding advice and to examine the wider family, not just each parent’s individual result.

For Swedish-registered breeding, the current Swedish Kennel Club rules require official hip and elbow status and known mental status for the parents covered by those provisions. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, known mental status means a complete MH with all 33 positions recorded; a Beteende- och personlighetsbeskrivning hund (BPH), the more general Swedish behaviour and personality assessment, does not replace this requirement for the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) additionally recommends A or B hips, clear elbows and a score of 1 or 2 in the MH gunshot item. Ask to see the original results and check siblings and previous offspring too.

Information about epilepsy needs careful interpretation. An older RAS survey captured reports of seizures or epileptic-type episodes in a small proportion of Malinois, but owners’ reports are not the same as veterinary diagnoses and the figures do not show how common the problem is in the breed today. Research demonstrates a hereditary component to epilepsy in Belgian Shepherd Dogs, with the strongest published evidence concerning the Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. Ask specifically about seizures in parents, siblings, half-siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a broad commercial DNA panel.

The RAS survey also flagged back problems in Malinois, but these were again reports from owners in an older sample and should not be read as current prevalence. Ask about spondylosis, lumbosacral problems, recurring lameness and work-related injuries in the family. For an active dog, an honest family history, official joint results and a plan for progressive conditioning are more useful than a long list of possible diagnoses.

## History & Origins

The Malinois originated in Belgium and developed from the local sheepdogs used in the late 1800s. The Belgian Shepherd Dog Club was founded in Brussels in 1891. In the same year, veterinary professor Adolphe Reul brought together 117 dogs to describe and select a more consistent type, and a first detailed breed standard was in place by 1892.

The first Belgian Shepherd Dogs entered the Belgian stud book in 1901, and by about 1910 the type and temperament were considered established. In today’s FCI standard, the Belgian Shepherd Dog is one breed with four varieties: the short-coated Malinois, the long-coated Groenendael and Tervueren, and the rough-coated Laekenois. The Malinois takes its name from Malines, the French name for the city of Mechelen, where the short-coated type was developed.

As the need for traditional herding declined, the work changed. Traits needed around livestock and farms — attentiveness, agility, stamina and close co-operation — found new uses in working trials, search, guarding and service work. That background explains the breed’s capacity, but it does not mean that every individual is automatically suited to every task.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Malinois works best when activity, recovery and household rules have been planned before the dog arrives. A large empty garden does not replace shared work, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. What matters is whether the dog can receive daily physical and mental activity, learn to remain calm indoors and be managed safely in stairwells, on public transport and when passing other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. An adult dog that is comfortable being left can normally manage a few hours, while a young puppy cannot be left alone. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, more often when young or old. This is a supervision threshold, not a target for how long a Malinois should be left; the dog’s actual response determines whether training needs to progress more slowly.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to say yes to the following:

- I have a clear training aim and time for both activity and rest every day.
- I have met the parents, or received credible information about their everyday behaviour, MH results, working ability and recovery.
- I have checked official hip, elbow and mental status and asked about epileptic-type seizures, back problems and temperament in the close family.
- I have a plan for children, visitors and other animals based on supervision, separation and gradual training.
- I have access to knowledgeable help if the dog’s intensity, fear, chasing behaviour or stress becomes difficult to manage.

For the right handler, the Malinois is an exceptionally versatile training partner. The sustainable choice, however, is not the puppy that appears most explosive, but the individual whose traits, family history and breeding purpose fit the life you can actually provide.

Belgian Malinois

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Deutscher Club für Belgische Schäferhunde e.V. (Germany)

Belgian Malinois: medium‑large, lean, and highly athletic herding dog with a short fawn coat and black mask. Extremely intelligent, intense, loyal, and people‑focused. Needs firm structure, daily mental work, and heavy exercise; thrives with experienced, very active owners.

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Ett djupt engagemang för bruks- och tjänstehundar ligger till grund för allt arbete här. Fokus ligger på raser som belgisk malinois och schäfer, där målet är att forma mentalt starka, balanserade och samarbetsvilliga hundar. Genom att kombinera struktur med positiv förstärkning, tillsammans med ett stort intresse för fysisk konditionering och funktion, ges hundarna bästa möjliga förutsättningar – oavsett om det gäller aktivt tjänstearbete eller krävande vardag.

Handler of paws

## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

Lucury of Cerec

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

Vi är en familj som bor på en gård på landet där vi lever tillsammans med våra djur. Vi har mer än 12 års erfarenhet av hund uppfödning och en 3 årig hund utbildning/uppfödare utbildning utöver de. 

Vi tänker långsiktigt och målmedvetet där endast fullt friska och hälsotestade hundar med det perfekta och stabila psyket får valpar!

Ett av våra mål är att du som köpare ska känna trygghet i ditt köp hos oss och erbjuder därför livslång support till alla våra valp köpare igenom hela valpens liv!

Mulatorps

Tryffelhundens Kennel

Hos Vår Frues Kennel er vårt mål å avle trygge, sunne og harmoniske familiehunder med godt gemytt og god fysikk. Vi følger Norsk Kennel Klub sine retningslinjer for ansvarlig avl, og legger stor vekt på både helse, mentalitet og valpenes oppvekstmiljø.

Som nokså unikt i Norge lar vi valpene bli hos mor og kullsøsken til de er minst 12 uker gamle. Vi opplever at dette gir valpene ekstra trygghet, bedre sosial utvikling og et godt grunnlag for å bli stabile og velfungerende hunder videre i livet.

Valpene vokser opp hjemme hos oss som en naturlig del av familien, med nær kontakt med mennesker og daglige inntrykk fra et vanlig hjemmemiljø. Vi har kun kull når familien har tid og kapasitet til å gi hver enkelt valp den oppfølgingen og omsorgen den fortjener.

Vi er også opptatt av naturlig, ren og økologisk mat, og mener at god ernæring er en viktig del av grunnlaget for friske og robuste hunder.

Med livslang erfaring med hunder av mange ulike raser ønsker vi å gi hver valp den beste starten på livet – både fysisk og mentalt.

Valpene vil være full vaksinerte for det kommende året når de kommer til sitt nye hjem.

Vår Frues Kennel

## Quick Facts

- Lively, intelligent terrier with strong hunting instincts and a surprisingly cuddly side at home  
- Sleek, shiny black and tan coat that barely sheds and is easy to keep clean  
- Compact and athletic, suited to active city living as well as houses with gardens  
- Often reserved or suspicious with strangers, but deeply loyal to their own people  
- Needs regular mental stimulation and training to keep that sharp terrier brain satisfied  

## Appearance & Coat

The Manchester Terrier is a small to medium sized, elegant terrier, built for speed and agility rather than bulk. Adults usually stand around 38 to 41 cm at the shoulder, with a weight that reflects a lean, athletic build rather than heaviness. When you look at one side on, you see a streamlined outline with a slightly arched neck, deep chest and a tucked up waist that hints at its rat-catching heritage.

The head is long and narrow with a flat skull and a keen, alert expression. Dark, almond shaped eyes give the dog an intelligent, slightly mischievous look. Ears can be naturally folded or, depending on country and local regulations, sometimes cropped in historical lines, but in modern European contexts you will mostly see small, V-shaped ears carried close to the head. The overall impression is of a refined dog that still looks capable of hard work.

The coat is one of the Manchester Terrier’s most distinctive features. It is:

- Short, close lying and very smooth to the touch  
- Glossy when in good condition  
- Always black and tan, with clear, sharply defined markings  

The tan markings appear above the eyes, on the muzzle and cheeks, on the chest, lower legs and under the tail. Good markings are a point of pride for many breeders. There should be no sooty blending or large patches of white beyond a very small spot on the chest, if any.

Coat care is straightforward. A quick brush once or twice a week with a soft rubber grooming mitt is usually enough to remove loose hairs and keep the coat shining. The breed sheds, but many owners find the shedding quite manageable compared with heavier coated breeds. Because the coat is so short, the skin can be sensitive, so avoid harsh shampoos and do not overbathe. A gentle bath every couple of months, or when truly dirty, is usually sufficient.

Cold and wet weather can be uncomfortable for such a sleek, lightly coated dog. Many Manchester Terriers appreciate a well fitted coat or jumper during winter walks, especially in windy or rainy climates. Regular nail trimming, ear checks and dental care complete the grooming routine and help keep this elegant terrier looking and feeling its best.

<x-quote text="Once we started using a soft grooming mitt every few days, his coat went from dull to mirror-shiny, and it only takes five minutes while we watch TV." from="Lina, Manchester Terrier owner" />

## Temperament & Personality

The Manchester Terrier is often described as a “big dog in a small body,” and that phrase fits well. This is a bright, confident and spirited companion that bonds closely with its family. Around their people, many Manchesters are affectionate, playful and sometimes quite clownish, happy to burrow under blankets or follow you from room to room.

With strangers, they can be reserved or aloof. They are not usually aggressive without reason, but they take their watchdog role seriously and will often alert bark when someone approaches the home. Early socialisation is important to prevent unnecessary suspicion or nervousness. When raised with positive experiences, most Manchesters learn to tolerate visitors calmly, although they may never be as socially enthusiastic as some other breeds.

With children, a well bred and well socialised Manchester Terrier can be a devoted companion, especially for slightly older, respectful kids. They are usually too delicate and quick moving to be an ideal match for very rough play. Families should teach children how to handle a small but fast, excitable dog, and always supervise interactions, especially in the early months.

Around other dogs, temperament varies. Many Manchester Terriers enjoy the company of dogs they know, particularly if they have grown up together. Some can be selective or assertive with unfamiliar dogs, especially of the same sex. Careful introductions, neutral meeting places and calm guidance from the owner help a lot. Obedience training and reliable recall are essential if your dog is off leash in areas where other dogs are present.

The greatest challenge for many owners is the Manchester’s strong prey drive. This breed was developed to chase and kill rats and other small vermin, and those instincts remain very strong today. Fast, darting movements from cats, rabbits or wildlife can trigger chasing, so early training and management are vital. Many individuals can live harmoniously with a resident cat if introduced carefully from puppyhood, but small pets like rodents are usually best kept completely separate.

At home, the breed tends to be relatively calm if their exercise and mental needs are met. Without enough stimulation, boredom can lead to problem behaviours such as excessive barking, digging or destructive chewing. This is a dog that likes to be involved, to think, and to move, and owners who enjoy an interactive relationship will find the Manchester Terrier a rewarding partner.

## Training & Exercise

Manchester Terriers are highly trainable, but they bring a terrier attitude to the table. They are clever, quick to learn and often quite food or toy motivated, yet they are also independent thinkers with a strong sense of what they want. Training works best when it is structured, fair and consistently rewarding.

Positive reinforcement methods suit this breed very well. Short, focused sessions using treats, toys, or access to favourite activities help keep their interest. Long, repetitive drills tend to bore them, and a bored Manchester may start inventing its own games. Clear rules, combined with plenty of praise for correct choices, give the dog confidence and deepen the bond between you.

Many owners find success by:

- Starting early with puppy classes and socialisation  
- Prioritising a solid recall and good leash manners  
- Teaching impulse control through exercises like “wait,” “leave it” and calm greetings  
- Introducing fun activities such as scent games, tricks or basic agility  

In terms of exercise, the breed is active and athletic, but not uncontrollable. A healthy adult generally needs:

- At least one good walk of 45 to 60 minutes per day, or two shorter walks  
- Several short play or training sessions spread across the day  
- Regular opportunities to run freely in a safe, enclosed area  

Some Manchesters can adapt to a slightly lower level of activity if they receive a lot of mental stimulation through training and puzzle games, but they are not suited to a very sedentary lifestyle. They particularly enjoy fast running, chasing toys, and problem solving tasks that use their nose and quick reflexes.

Dog sports can be an excellent outlet. Many Manchester Terriers thrive in:

- Agility  
- Rally obedience  
- Flyball  
- Nose work or scent detection games  

These activities channel their natural energy and hunting drive into structured work. They also build confidence and provide social exposure in a controlled environment.

Consistency is important. Without clear boundaries, a Manchester Terrier can become pushy or noisy. They are quick to discover what works to get attention, including barking or pestering. If you are patient, firm in a kind way, and ready to laugh at their antics while guiding them, training becomes a very enjoyable shared project.

<x-quote text="What surprised me most was how quickly he picked up new cues once I shortened sessions to five minutes and used tiny treats. If I push it too long, he just starts improvising his own tricks." from="Oskar, first-time dog owner" />

## Health

The Manchester Terrier is generally a robust and long lived breed. Many individuals reach 13 to 15 years of age when well cared for, and some live even longer. As with all purebred dogs, there are certain health issues that breeders and owners pay particular attention to.

Conditions reported in the breed include:

- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap can slip out of place and cause lameness  
- Hip issues in some lines, although the breed is not among the worst affected  
- Eye problems such as cataracts and, in some populations, inherited lens luxation  
- Von Willebrand disease and other clotting disorders in certain bloodlines  
- Allergies and skin sensitivities, especially related to diet, parasites or environmental triggers  

Responsible breeders use health testing to reduce the risk of inherited problems. Depending on the country and breeding club recommendations, this may include:

- Eye examinations by a veterinary ophthalmologist  
- Patella checks  
- Hip evaluation  
- Genetic tests for specific conditions if present in the line  

If you are buying a puppy, do not hesitate to ask which tests the parents have undergone, and request to see copies of the results. A reputable breeder will be proud to discuss this.

Routine care is just as important as genetics. Keeping your Manchester at a healthy weight protects the joints and reduces the risk of many diseases. The breed’s slim frame makes even a small amount of extra weight quite visible, so it is helpful to learn how to check body condition by hand.

Regular dental care is essential as smaller breeds can be prone to tartar and gum disease. Daily tooth brushing, combined with appropriate chew items, can make a remarkable difference to long term oral health.

Vaccinations, parasite prevention, and annual veterinary check ups allow early detection of problems. Many health issues, from heart murmurs to dental disease, are easier and cheaper to manage when spotted early.

<x-quote text="Manchester Terriers are often healthy, active seniors, but owners should still plan ahead for insurance and routine care, as long lifespans mean long term responsibility." from="Get a Pet Editorial" />

## History & Origins

The Manchester Terrier has deep roots in the working class streets and countryside of Britain. Its direct ancestors were small black and tan terriers that were common in the 18th and 19th centuries, valued for their fierce determination in hunting rats and other vermin. These agile dogs worked in stables, warehouses and farms, protecting food stores and livestock from disease carrying rodents.

During the 1800s, when rat baiting and other blood sports were unfortunately popular, these terriers became famous for their speed and efficiency in rat pits. At the same time, there was interest in creating a sleeker, more refined dog that could also accompany gentlemen on walks or rides. Selective breeding between the old black and tan terriers and Whippet type dogs produced a more elegant, streamlined dog that retained the terrier drive.

The city of Manchester in England became a strong centre for this breeding, and the name Manchester Terrier eventually stuck. Over time, the breed moved away from its sporting origins and became more of a companion and show dog, although the instinct to chase and hunt remained firmly in place.

Throughout the 20th century, the Manchester Terrier struggled at times with low numbers, especially during and after the World Wars when keeping dogs was difficult. Dedicated breeders worked hard to preserve the breed’s unique look and character. In some countries, the toy and standard sizes have been treated as closely related but distinct varieties, while in others they are considered parts of the same breed concept.

Today, the Manchester Terrier is still relatively rare in many parts of the world compared to more mainstream companion breeds. Enthusiasts appreciate it as a link to traditional British terrier history, combined with a modern, manageable size and a low maintenance coat. The breed is now primarily a family companion and an active partner in dog sports, though the old rat hunting instinct is very much alive in their enjoyment of chasing toys, scent games and fast paced activities.

<x-quote text="Understanding this breed’s roots as a determined ratter explains a lot of modern behaviour, from intense toy focus to that lightning fast reaction to movement in the garden." from="Get a Pet Editorial" />

## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Manchester Terrier is both rewarding and demanding. This is not a dog that is content to be a decorative accessory. They want involvement, interaction and a fair amount of structure. For active individuals or families who enjoy training and outdoor time, they can be a near perfect match.

In terms of living space, the Manchester adapts well to apartments and city life, provided exercise needs are met. Their compact size and low shedding coat make them easy to manage indoors. However, thin walls and close neighbours can turn barking into a real issue if not addressed through training and sufficient mental stimulation. A house with a securely fenced garden gives more freedom, but does not replace walks and proper outings.

Daily life usually includes:

- Morning and evening walks  
- Short training or trick sessions  
- Interactive play with toys or scent games at home  
- Time simply spent together, often with the dog curled up close by  

They are often quite attached to their people and may not enjoy being left alone for long hours on a regular basis. Gradual training to be comfortable alone, combined with puzzle toys and a predictable routine, can help prevent separation related problems.

Financially, owning a Manchester Terrier means budgeting for quality food, routine veterinary care, vaccines and parasite treatments, grooming basics, insurance and equipment. While they do not eat as much as large breeds and do not need expensive professional grooming, long term costs can still be significant over a 13 to 15 year lifespan. Many owners choose dedicated [pet insurance](https://getapet.com/en/pet-insurance) to manage unexpected veterinary bills.

Useful equipment for living with a Manchester Terrier typically includes:

- A well fitted harness and lightweight leash  
- Weather appropriate coats for cold or wet climates  
- A variety of toys, including chew toys and puzzle feeders  
- A comfortable bed, often with blankets, as many like to burrow  
- Secure fencing or safe long lines for controlled off leash exploration  

If you have other pets, particularly small animals, you will need to think carefully about management. The hunting instinct is real, and even a dog that seems calm indoors may be triggered by fast movement. Early, careful introductions and clear rules are crucial if you plan to mix species.

For first time dog owners, the Manchester Terrier can be a good choice if you are ready to invest time in training and learning. Their intelligence and sensitivity mean that your own habits, consistency and mood will shape their behaviour strongly.

<x-quote text="The breed’s combination of elegance, drive and sensitivity means they thrive in homes where people enjoy teaching, playing and being genuinely present in the dog’s everyday life." from="Get a Pet Editorial" />

Manchester Terrier

Svenska Terrierklubben (Swedish Terrier Club)

American Kennel Club (Referenced from the UK site)

Bayerische Landestierärztekammer (Bavarian State Veterinary Chamber)

Elegant, compact black-and-tan terrier, lively and intelligent with strong hunting instincts and high prey drive. Affectionate and cuddly with family but often reserved with strangers. Needs regular exercise, mental stimulation, positive training, and protection from cold due to its sleek coat.

WestChester Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Norwegian Buhund

The British Norwegian Buhund Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Norwegian Buhund is a medium, athletic Scandinavian spitz with a square build, erect ears, and curled tail. A people‑focused, vocal farm and herding dog, it is alert, energetic, and intelligent, excelling in dog sports and thriving in active homes needing a devoted watchdog.

## Quick facts

The Greenland Dog, known in Swedish as the grönlandshund, is a powerful polar dog originating in Greenland. The breed was developed for sustained work as a sled dog in Arctic conditions. It is energetic, independent and generally friendly towards people, but also has a strong prey drive. Its need to work, physical strength and need for a stable social life are important considerations before choosing this breed.

- **Size:** males should stand at least 60 cm at the withers and females at least 55 cm. The FCI standard specifies neither an upper height limit nor a fixed weight range.
- **Activity level:** very high. The breed needs regular opportunities to use its strength and stamina through activities such as pulling work and active outdoor pursuits.
- **Coat care:** a dense double coat that needs regular brushing, with more attention when the undercoat sheds. The Royal Kennel Club gives weekly grooming as a general guideline.
- **Life expectancy:** the Royal Kennel Club lists over 10 years as a general breed guideline. This is not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an experienced, committed owner who wants to take part in pulling work, hiking and other physical activities, and can provide the dog with a secure social life.

Ask the breeder how their adult dogs work, how they get along with people and other dogs, and what health test results are available. Choosing this breed should be about more than an interest in its appearance. You also need to want to live with its enthusiasm for work, independence and prey drive for many years.

## Appearance and coat

The Greenland Dog is a very strong spitz-type dog with substantial bone, well-developed muscles and a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. The head is broad, the muzzle powerful, and the ears relatively small, triangular and upright. The tail is set high and carried curved or loosely curled over the back. Its overall build should support sustained work in demanding terrain and weather.

Males should stand at least 60 cm and females at least 55 cm at the withers. Some variation in size is accepted as long as function and proportions are maintained. The coat consists of a soft, dense undercoat and straight, coarser guard hairs. Solid and multicoloured coats are permitted, but the 2022 FCI standard excludes albinism and merle markings. Blue eyes and eyes of different colours are also disqualifying faults under the standard.

Coat care mainly involves keeping the dense coat in good condition and removing loose undercoat during shedding. At these times, grooming needs can be much greater than during the rest of the year. Check the coat regularly and ask the breeder to demonstrate suitable tools. Adapt your routine to your dog's coat and shedding cycles rather than assuming the same amount of work will be needed every week.

Check the skin, ears, nails and paws at the same time. A dog that works and spends a lot of time outdoors needs regular checks so that you can spot chafing, wounds and other changes. Get your puppy used to having its body touched, its paws lifted and its ears examined. Calm, brief handling sessions and rewards for cooperation make ongoing care easier.

## Temperament and personality

The Greenland Dog should be energetic, mentally resilient and fearless. It is described as friendly even towards unfamiliar people, and the breed standard states that it is not suitable as a guard dog. As a sled dog, it has not been bred to depend on one particular handler. This creates a different basis for teamwork than with dogs that constantly look to their owner for guidance.

The breed is independent and has a strong pack instinct. A good social life is important, but this does not mean that every individual will do well in a large group of dogs. The Swedish Kennel Club (SKK) notes that the breed is not always comfortable in large packs. Ask how the parents get along with other dogs, how introductions are handled, and what the breeder does when dogs need more space or different group arrangements.

The breed ideal does not tell you everything about an individual dog. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) from 2025 highlights the need for continued work on confidence and sound temperament, partly following observations of fearfulness at events. Try to meet adult dogs and ask how they react to unfamiliar people and environments. Give your puppy calm, positive experiences and avoid pushing it into interactions it is not ready for.

## Training and exercise

Start with the breed's role as a working sled dog. Pulling a sled or pulk, skijoring and hiking with a dog pack are examples of activities mentioned in breed sources. Ask an experienced handler or breeder to help you plan how to introduce your dog to equipment and work. The parents' documented working achievements can provide valuable insight into the traits the breeder prioritises.

Build physical capacity gradually and adapt the work to the dog's age, health and fitness. A puppy needs shorter activities, and the workload must change as the dog develops. Plan around the weather and temperature, too. The thick coat and high exercise needs make it important to offer suitable activity even when the weather limits harder work. In warm weather, adjust the level of exertion and ensure the dog has access to water and somewhere cool.

Everyday training deserves as much attention as physical conditioning. Work on engagement, waiting, handling and walking on a lead in quiet settings before increasing the difficulty. Use rewards your dog values and be consistent about which behaviours are rewarded. A strong prey drive means you need to plan for safe walks and controlled training environments. Do not assume that good teamwork in harness automatically means reliable recall when wildlife appears.

## Health

Kennel club sources describe the Greenland Dog as a generally healthy working breed, but health should be assessed using documented information. Hip dysplasia (HD) does occur. Because not all dogs are X-rayed, results from those examined cannot reliably be used to establish the prevalence of the condition across the whole breed. Ask for officially recorded results and information about the health of close relatives.

Under SKK's 2026 registration rules for the Greenland Dog, both parents must have an official hip score before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration. In its 2025 RAS, the breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an HD grade of A or B. Distinguish between the requirement for a known result and the club's recommendation about which results should be used for breeding. Ask to see the parents' identities and exact results.

The 2025 RAS also draws attention to reports of gastric torsion, including in younger dogs, but states that official insurance statistics are not available for the breed. Gastric torsion is an acute, life-threatening emergency. Signs may include attempts to vomit without bringing anything up, restlessness, excessive salivation or a swollen abdomen. Contact a vet immediately if you suspect it; do not wait for all the symptoms to appear together.

A sufficiently broad breeding base is also important for the breed's future health. The breed club works to preserve genetic diversity and enable more suitable dogs to contribute to breeding. Ask the breeder how the planned pairing was chosen in terms of relatedness, temperament and working ability. A health assessment is more useful when it considers the individual dogs, their families and the planned pairing.

## History and origins

The Greenland Dog descends from the sled dogs of Greenland's Inuit people. It has long played a role in transport, hunting and subsistence in a harsh Arctic climate. Strength, hardiness and stamina were crucial in determining which dogs could work and pass on their traits. The FCI lists Greenland as the country of origin and Denmark as the breed's patron country, responsible for its standard.

The breed also played a part in the history of polar exploration. Dogs that accompanied expeditions contributed to the Norwegian population, and exchanges with Norway have been important for Greenland Dogs in Sweden. In Sweden, the breed has mainly been kept by people using it on trips through forests and mountains. The Swedish RAS continues to emphasise preserving pulling ability, hardiness and an effective working style alongside sound conformation and temperament.

## Living with the breed

A Greenland Dog is best suited to someone who wants to devote a substantial part of their free time to their dog and to active outdoor pursuits. Plan for the whole year, including periods without snow or when temperatures make pulling work more difficult. Ask the breeder what a typical week looks like and what experience you need to get started. The breed needs an owner who can provide meaningful work and a well-managed daily life.

Friendliness towards people is a valued trait, but the dog's strength means adults must take responsibility in a family with children. Teach children to treat the dog gently and respect its rest and mealtimes. Young children should always have an adult present when they are with the dog. Also ask what experience the parents and puppies have with children and the various situations they will encounter in family life.

The prey drive needs to be taken seriously in homes with cats, small pets or poultry. The Danish Kennel Club (DKK) notes that these animals can trigger hunting behaviour, while SKK stresses that the breed is difficult to let off lead in the countryside. Plan for physical control and secure enclosures. A friendly attitude towards people does not mean the dog can be left unsupervised with other species.

The breed is well adapted to spending a great deal of time outdoors, but its environment must also meet its needs during warm periods. Think through access to shade, water, a cool place to rest and ways to adapt activities. A garden or dog run needs to be combined with companionship and working together. Choose your living arrangements and routines around the dog's actual needs for exercise, social contact and recovery.

Even an independent polar dog needs to learn to feel secure when left alone. Start with short periods and increase them gradually according to the dog's response. Arrange care and company during working days. The fact that a dog enjoys the presence of other dogs does not mean that any canine companion will be a good match, or that people are no longer needed in its daily life.

Before buying, check three things: how you will meet the dog's need to work, how you will provide a secure social life, and what documented health information and working records are available for the planned pairing. When these elements fit together, the Greenland Dog can be a tireless companion for someone who wants their dog to play an active part in life outdoors.

Greenland Dog

A powerful polar dog with a compact body, upright ears, and a dense, protective double coat. Bred for endurance sled work, the Greenland Dog thrives on pulling, carrying packs, and joining challenging outdoor adventures. Energetic, independent, and generally friendly toward people, it needs an experienced, active owner who can provide work, companionship, and thoughtful training.

Tasermiut Kennel

Apollo

## Quick Facts

The Halden Hound (Haldenstøver) is a rare Norwegian scenthound used mainly to hunt hare and fox. It can be calm and friendly at home, but it has been bred to work independently with a strong desire to hunt. The Swedish Kennel Club is clear that this is not a breed for companionship alone: a prospective owner should be an active hunter with access to suitable hunting ground.

- **Origin:** Norway, with close links to the area around Halden.
- **Purpose:** A hound that hunts alone, finding a scent trail and pursuing game while giving tongue.
- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height at the withers of 52–60 cm for males and 50–58 cm for females.
- **Coat:** Short, straight and very dense, with a dense undercoat. The base colour is white with black patches and tan markings.
- **Temperament:** Affectionate, calm and friendly at home; enduring, determined and independent when hunting.
- **The key question before buying:** Do you want, and are you able, to give this dog a genuine working life as a hunting hound? Ordinary walks and enrichment toys do not replace the job for which the breed was developed.

The Halden Hound can therefore be both a family member and a hunting dog, but the order matters: it succeeds as a family dog when its hunting drive and need for activity are given an appropriate outlet.

## Appearance & Coat

The Halden Hound is a medium-sized, rectangular and strong dog that should never look heavy. Its body is built for sustained work: the back should be strong, the chest deep and the movement light, parallel and ground-covering. The head is medium-sized and well balanced, the eyes are dark brown with a calm expression, and the drop ears reach roughly halfway along the muzzle when pulled forwards.

Colour is a straightforward way to recognise the breed. White should predominate, with black patches and tan markings on the head and legs and, sometimes, between the black and white areas. Under the breed standard, black must not be the dominant colour.

The coat has harsh, dense and straight outer hair with a dense undercoat. It requires relatively little work compared with a long coat or one that needs trimming. Brush and bathe the dog as required. After hunting, it is also sensible to check the coat, paws and drop ears before the dog settles down to rest.

## Temperament & Personality

The Nordic kennel clubs describe the Halden Hound as friendly, affectionate and calm at home, but with a strong hunting drive and great stamina in the forest. These traits are not contradictory. A dog can relax with its family after work while still making its own decisions when following a scent.

Independence is central to the breed's working style. When hunting, the dog searches and pursues game at a distance from its handler, giving tongue so the hunter can follow the progress of the chase. That is valuable in the field, but it means everyday life must take account of the dog's desire to hunt, its voice and its ability to follow scent despite other cues.

Can a Halden Hound live with children? There is not enough breed-specific evidence to promise that every individual will be good with children. The documented friendly temperament is an encouraging starting point, but a puppy's experiences, the adult dog's personality and the family's routines all matter. Children and dogs need calm introductions, adult supervision and a resting place where the dog will not be disturbed.

The same caution applies to other animals. There is no strong evidence for making sweeping promises about cats or other dogs. The hunting drive means that small animals and unfamiliar cats outdoors may trigger pursuit, even if a particular dog lives successfully with an animal it has known from an early age. Assess the individual dog and arrange secure separation whenever nobody is supervising.

## Training & Exercise

The Halden Hound needs plenty of physical activity and a job suited to a working scenthound. The most useful guidance is therefore not a fixed number of minutes each day, but access to hunting, suitable ground and a routine that develops fitness, co-operation and recovery for work.

The Norwegian Kennel Club describes the breed as easy to train, while its hunting style remains independent. Start early with recall, engagement, lead manners, settling and calm handling, then increase distractions gradually. A reliable recall is important, but it cannot remove the risks created by a strong hunting drive. Away from controlled hunting, a long line or securely enclosed area is often wiser than off-lead freedom near wildlife or traffic.

When the dog is not hunting, tracking, search exercises and varied outings can give its nose a worthwhile task. Such activities are a supplement, not a reason to buy the breed without opportunities to hunt. Exercise and arousal should also be treated as separate issues: a dog bred for stamina must learn to rest at home, rather than simply being given ever longer training sessions.

The Halden Hound is best suited to an owner who values an independent partnership. Someone who wants a dog that constantly waits for the next detailed instruction may find the hound's initiative difficult. For a hunter, that same initiative is part of the breed's purpose.

## Health

The Halden Hound is generally described as a functional and healthy hunting dog, but the small population makes reliable prevalence figures difficult to establish. The Swedish Kennel Club expressly states that the very small number of dogs in Sweden is insufficient for a firm assessment of the breed's health. It is therefore more accurate to explain what buyers should check than to present a long list of “common” diseases.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' official hip dysplasia (HD) results. The Norwegian Kennel Club's breeding programme for the Norwegian hounds recommends screening breeding dogs and using only dogs graded A, B or C; a dog graded C should be mated to one that is clear of HD. Ask about epilepsy and hypothyroidism in close relatives as well. The joint NKK breeding programme prioritises gathering information about these conditions, but that does not mean there are sufficient data to say how common they are specifically in the Halden Hound.

The clearest long-term concern is the narrow breeding base. NKK reports that only around 10–20 puppies have been newly registered per year in recent years and considers this level dangerously low for the breed's future. At the same time, many different parents were used for the 23 litters registered in 2019–2024: 21 males and 20 females. For a puppy buyer, this means the breeder should be able to explain how the proposed parents are related, why they were chosen and how the breeding plan avoids giving any one dog too much influence.

A small population is not in itself proof of poor health. It does, however, create greater uncertainty and makes open reporting of health, hunting ability and relatedness particularly important. Check the current recommendations with the breed club, as breeding programmes can change.

## History & Origins

The Halden Hound was developed around the town of Halden in south-eastern Norway during the latter half of the nineteenth century. According to SKK and NKK, English Foxhounds, Harriers and Beagles, together with local hounds, formed part of its background. The crosses produced a distinct and relatively uniform type intended for hunting by scent.

The breed has come close to disappearing several times. Its narrow breeding base was a problem from the outset, and a distemper outbreak in 1931 and the Second World War severely reduced the population. Dedicated breeders rebuilt it after the war, and it was recognised as a separate breed in Norway in 1952. The FCI recognises it as a Norwegian, medium-sized scenthound in Group 6 and lists it as subject to a working trial.

The first Halden Hound was registered in Sweden in 1983. The breed remains scarce even in its country of origin. Today's planned exchange of breeding material between Norwegian hound breeds and carefully approved outcrosses should therefore be understood as conservation work, not as evidence that the Halden Hound lacks its own recognised breed identity.

## Living with the Breed

The Halden Hound is best suited to an active hunter who wants to work a hound alone on hare or fox and also wants a friendly dog at home. There are more suitable choices for someone who mainly wants a companion, even if that home can provide long walks.

Living in a flat is not automatically impossible, but the size of the home does not answer the important questions. You must be able to manage the dog's voice, strong interest in scent, safe exercise and regular transport to suitable ground. A house with a garden is not enough either if the dog lacks work and companionship.

Time alone must be introduced gradually for the individual dog; there is no sound breed-specific number of hours. A household where the dog would routinely be left through long working days, without a plan for supervision or activity, is nevertheless a poor starting point. Secure gates and consistent lead routines matter, because a scent trail outside the door can be extremely motivating.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to the following:

- I have a clear purpose for the breed's hunting work and access to suitable ground.
- I accept that a scenthound works independently and may use its voice extensively.
- I have a safe plan for recall training, long-line work and any off-lead exercise in areas with wildlife.
- The breeder provides HD results, discusses health in the family openly and can explain how the proposed parents are related.
- The family's children and other animals can be introduced and managed without taking either hunting drive or a friendly temperament for granted.

For the right hunter, the Halden Hound offers a particularly clear combination: an enduring and determined hunting dog outdoors, and a calm, affectionate family member when its needs are genuinely met.

Halden Hound (Haldenstøver)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

The Norwegian Hound Club

The Halden Hound is a rare Norwegian scenthound, medium-sized, athletic and robust, bred to hunt hare in cold, snowy terrain. Calm and affectionate at home but driven in the field, it has a short white coat with black and tan markings, low grooming needs, and high exercise demands.

Kennel Lykkelosberget driver oppdrett av rasen Haldenstøver.
Fokus på helse, gemytt, jaktegenskaper og eksteriør.

Haldenstøveren er en norsk hunderase avlet for å jakte hare og rev, og er en god familiehund hjemme.
Typisk gemytt for haldenstøveren er: snille, stille (bjeffer kun på jakt/los), sosiale og omgjengelige, glad i mat, aktive ute og rolige inne, liker aktivitet og tåler fint late dager. Meget trivelige hunder å ha i hverdagen.
På jakt er den utholdende, selvstendig og ærlig i målbruken.
Den perfekte kombinert jakt- og familiehund.

Mer info om meg, hundene og rasen kan leses på nettsiden: www.lykkelosberget.weebly.com

Alle kull på haldenstøver må gå gjennom avlsrådet for rasen, som godkjenner eller anbefaler kombinasjoner.
Liste over kull på rasen finnes her: www.haldenstoverklubben.com/valper.html

Første kullet født nå 9. mai 2026.
Mitt mål er å ta vare på haldenstøverens gode og særegne egenskaper, og samtidig bidra til å øke populasjonen for å sikre rasens overlevelse for framtiden, alltid i samarbeid med avlsrådet og raseklubben.

Lykkelosberget

Sjøhaven’s KaMiPod

Bichonpoo

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Kennel Alternova är en liten familjekennel där våra hundar lever nära oss i vardagen. Vi är aktiva inom utställning och whippetrace och lägger stor vikt vid temperament, hälsa och rastyp.

Alternova Whippet

Mias pälsklingar

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

## Quick Facts

A Labradoodle is a cross between a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle, not a dog breed with a single standard recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club. The name therefore says less about an individual dog than many people assume: size, coat, shedding, temperament and health risks can vary even within the same litter.

- Always ask which Poodle size is actually present in the ancestry. Toy, Miniature, Medium and Standard Poodles have very different heights.
- F1, F1b and similar labels describe ancestry. They do not guarantee a particular size, coat, allergy response or personality.
- A Labradoodle may inherit retrieving interest and quick learning, but the traits are not combined in the same way in every dog.
- The coat may be straighter, wavy or curly and may shed as well as mat. No Labradoodle can be guaranteed to be suitable for someone with allergies.
- The cross is best suited to an owner who wants to train, provide activities and maintain the coat regularly, and who can adapt daily life to the actual dog.
- Health screening must be assessed separately for each parent according to the risks and recommendations for the Labrador Retriever and the relevant Poodle size.

An Australian Labradoodle is not automatically the same as a first-generation Labrador–Poodle cross. It is a separate type developed over several generations, with other breeds also present in its ancestry. Always ask what the breeder means by the name and which registry or breeding programme the dogs belong to.

## Appearance & Coat

There is no single official size or body shape for a Labradoodle. The Labrador standard gives an ideal height of 56–57 centimetres for males and 54–56 centimetres for females. Poodles, by contrast, range from Toy at over 24 up to and including 28 centimetres, through Miniature and Medium, to Standard at over 45 up to and including 60 centimetres with a two-centimetre upper tolerance. A general label such as ‘mini’, ‘medium’ or ‘standard’ is therefore not enough to tell you how large the dog will become.

The best estimate combines:

- the Poodle size actually present in the ancestry
- the measured height and weight of both parents
- the size of adult full and half-siblings and previous litters
- the dog's sex and build

The parents reveal more than a generation label. According to its standard, the Labrador has a short, dense coat with a water-resistant undercoat, whereas the Poodle has a curly coat that continues to grow. Coat length, curl, density and shedding can therefore differ between littermates and change as the puppy coat is replaced by the adult coat.

Low visible shedding is not the same as low allergy risk. Dog allergens come mainly from skin, saliva and urine, not only from hair. There are no allergen-free dogs, and one person may react differently to different individuals. Anyone who already has a pet allergy should therefore not buy a puppy on the strength of words such as ‘hypoallergenic’ or ‘allergy-friendly’.

Coat care must be guided by the coat the dog actually develops. With a longer or curlier coat, a comb needs to pass all the way to the skin without catching. Pay particular attention behind the ears, under a harness and collar, in the armpits, groin and on the legs. Wet coat needs to be dried and detangled. How often the dog needs combing and clipping depends on coat length, texture and lifestyle; a knowledgeable groomer can help create a realistic routine. Introduce handling gradually and positively.

## Temperament & Personality

A Labradoodle may be sociable, cooperative and lively, but the cross does not come with a ready-made ‘best of both breeds’ personality. The Labrador and Poodle breed ideals describe friendly, active and trainable dogs, but inheritance, parental behaviour, early experiences, health and training all affect the individual.

A British owner survey published in 2026 compared behaviour in 583 Labradoodles with Labradors and Poodles. The pattern was mixed: Labradoodles scored better than Poodles on six of twelve behavioural scales but worse than Labradors on five. The study covered dogs up to five years old and cannot predict a puppy's personality. It also found no direct evidence that Labradoodles are generally especially suitable for families with children.

If possible, meet the mother and other closely related adult dogs. Watch how they approach people, recover after something unexpected, accept handling and settle. Ask how adult dogs from previous litters cope with everyday life, not only what colour or coat they have.

Children and Labradoodles can live well together, but an adult must always be present with young children. The dog needs a protected resting place, and children should not climb on, restrain or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. A young, strong and enthusiastic dog can knock over a child without being aggressive, so calm greetings and keeping all four paws on the floor are important everyday skills.

The same caution applies to other animals. Social interest is not the same as good dog-park manners, and a Labradoodle is not automatically safe with cats. Consider the individual's experience and tendency to chase. Introduce animals in stages, give them their own safe places and supervise their interactions.

## Training & Exercise

A Labradoodle needs both physical movement and tasks involving scent, thought and cooperation every day, but no universal number of minutes suits every dog. Age, size, health, intensity and recovery determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates walks, opportunities to move freely in a safe place, scent work, retrieving, problem-solving, training and undisturbed rest.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the cross's often rapid learning. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe and calm:

- attention and loose-lead walking
- recall and the ability to disengage from distractions
- giving up and releasing objects without conflict
- calm greetings with people and dogs
- waiting and settling even when something is happening
- comfortable handling of coat, ears, mouth and paws

Retrieving, search work, tracking, nosework and rally obedience can provide an outlet for the parent breeds' working drive. However, not every individual enjoys the same activity or water.

For puppies, load, difficulty and duration should increase gradually. Stiffness, reluctance or poor recovery show that the plan needs to change. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, self-control and the ability to rest.

## Health

There is no evidence that a Labradoodle is automatically healthier or less healthy than both parent breeds. A 2024 British study included 9,402 young dogs and 342 comparisons between three Poodle crosses and their parent breeds. There was no statistically significant difference in 86.6 per cent of the comparisons. Among 583 Labradoodles, most of the 57 conditions examined did not differ from Poodles or Labradors. The study relied on owner reports about dogs up to five years old and does not replace long-term breeding follow-up.

Health assessment must instead begin with each parent. A Labrador used in pedigree breeding under Swedish Kennel Club rules must have an official hip status, while the Swedish Labrador Retriever Club additionally recommends hips and elbows without recorded dysplasia and a current eye examination. Standard Poodles have a Swedish hip programme; Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles instead have a programme requiring a prcd-PRA result. These rules apply to the pedigree parents, not as a compulsory ‘Labradoodle package’, but they show why the exact Poodle size must be known.

Ask to see the evidence rather than accepting the phrase ‘health-tested parents’. Check:

- that the document belongs to the correct dog and can be linked to its identity or registration number
- the date, method, issuer and actual result of the examination
- hip, elbow and eye results relevant to each parent
- which DNA tests were performed and the single disease each test covers
- disease, mobility problems and temperament in siblings, previous offspring and older close relatives

A clear DNA result for one mutation says nothing about other diseases. A cross can inherit risk variants from both sides even when genetic diversity is greater.

In the 2024 study, Labradoodles had higher odds of otitis externa than Labradors, but this does not mean every individual will be affected. Seek veterinary advice for head shaking, itching, pain, redness, swelling or foul-smelling discharge. Recurring problems need investigation; do not clean an irritated ear without veterinary advice.

## History & Origins

The best-documented modern starting point for the name Labradoodle is a litter born in 1989 at the then Royal Guide Dogs Association of Australia, now Guide Dogs Victoria. Breeding manager Wally Conron mated the Labrador bitch Brandy with the Standard Poodle Harley for a visually impaired client whose husband had an allergy. Of the three puppies, one, Sultan, was considered suitable for the client and later worked as a guide dog.

The name Labradoodle was used to create interest when it was harder to find homes for dogs described simply as crossbreeds. It made the cross well known, but did not create a common breed standard. Some breeders have continued with Labrador–Poodle crosses, while others have continued breeding for several generations under their own registries.

An Australian Labradoodle therefore has a different background from a straightforward Labrador–Poodle cross. Genetic research on these dogs shows contributions from breeds other than Labrador and Poodle and that Poodle ancestry predominates. A puppy buyer should ask for an understandable pedigree or ancestry record and not assume that all dogs sold under similar names have the same background.

## Living with the Breed

A Labradoodle is best suited to a home with time for training, activity, recovery and regular coat care, and one that accepts that the adult dog may not match a marketed size or coat label. It is rarely a good choice for someone whose main aim is a non-shedding, self-sufficient or guaranteed easy family dog.

Living in a flat can work if the dog's needs are met outdoors, it can settle indoors and it does not disturb neighbours. A garden does not replace walks or training. Time alone needs to be taught in small steps while the dog is secure and relaxed. Some adult dogs manage a few hours, while others become worried much sooner; failure to settle means the difficulty needs to be reduced.

Use a practical pre-purchase check before deciding:

- Ask for the exact ancestry, Poodle size and meaning of the breeder's generation and size labels.
- Compare the actual size, coat, behaviour and ability to settle of the parents and adult relatives.
- Read the original health results and ask why those particular examinations were chosen for both parents.
- Meet the puppies with their mother in the environment where they were raised and see how the breeder handles everyday sounds, handling and recovery.
- Make sure the household has a plan for coat care, dog care, training and gradual time alone, including during the dog's demanding early years.

When the answers are specific and the documents can be checked, it is easier to assess that particular planned litter. For a Labradoodle, the individual dog, its parents and the breeder's work are more informative than the name itself.

Labradoodle

UK Labradoodle Association

Labradoodle Club of Great Britain

The Labradoodle is a medium-to-large, athletic cross of Labrador Retriever and Poodle, known for its friendly, people-focused nature and high trainability. Coats vary from curly low-shedding to shaggy and shedding, needing regular grooming. Best for active homes offering daily exercise and mental stimulation.

## Quick Facts

The Irish Setter is a medium-sized, energetic pointing dog from Ireland with a strong hunting drive and a breed ideal that emphasises an affectionate nature. On Get a Pet, the breed is called **Irish Setter**. In the Swedish Kennel Club's breed standard, it is called the **Irish Red Setter**; this is the solid-red breed, not the Irish Red and White Setter, which is a separate breed.

- **Breed group:** Group 7, pointing dogs
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Original purpose:** To search for gamebirds, point them, flush the bird on command and retrieve after the shot
- **Height at the withers:** 58–67 cm for males and 55–62 cm for females
- **Weight:** Not specified in the breed standard
- **Activity level:** High; the breed needs both physical activity and tasks that engage its nose and ability to work with a handler every day
- **Best suited to:** An active home that wants to train regularly and can manage hunting drive, recall and a substantial need for movement

This is not primarily a companion dog with a fixed exercise schedule. The breed was developed to work across large areas, and that background is evident in its speed, stamina, independence and interest in bird scent.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Setter should be athletic, balanced and built for fast, sustained movement—not heavy or excessively coated. According to the standard, males should stand 58–67 cm at the withers and females 55–62 cm. The standard does not specify a weight, so an appropriate body condition must be assessed on the individual dog.

The colour is a rich chestnut red with no black. Small white markings may be permitted under the standard, but an Irish Setter should not be confused with the separately recognised Irish Red and White Setter.

The coat is short and fine on the head, the fronts of the legs and the tips of the ears. On the rest of the body, it is moderately long and should lie as flat and free from curl or wave as possible. There is longer, silky feathering on the ears and legs, among other areas. The coat should enhance a functional dog, not obscure the body's outline or impede movement.

Coat care should be based on the dog's actual needs, not a fixed weekly schedule. Check the feathering, the coat around the ears and neck, and the hair around the feet after outings in rough ground. Gently work out developing tangles before they tighten, and remove seeds, twigs and dirt. This is not a traditionally clipped breed, but stray or tangle-prone hair around the ears, neck and feet can be tidied carefully. Excessive shaping does not belong to the breed's functional appearance.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Setter's breed ideal is intense, intelligent, energetic, affectionate and loyal, but friendliness does not automatically make the breed easy. Its strong hunting drive and ability to work at a distance mean that a young or untrained dog can be fast, easily distracted and difficult to reach when the surroundings become more interesting than the handler.

When its needs are met, the breed can be calm and pleasant indoors and highly intense outside. This is a useful description of the breed's two modes, but it is not a guarantee for every individual. Inheritance, upbringing, recovery, training and the everyday environment all influence how a dog behaves at home.

An Irish Setter can suit a committed first-time owner, but not someone looking for a dog that is satisfied with ordinary lead walks and a little weekend activity. The owner needs to enjoy training even when progress comes gradually and be able to prevent hunting drive from becoming a safety problem.

Labels such as “hunting line” and “show line” are not enough to predict everyday behaviour. Instead, ask how the parents and adult close relatives behave at home, how they work outside, how readily they settle and what hunting or other working achievements they actually have. Variation can occur both between and within litters.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Setter needs substantial daily activity, but no single number of hours is right for every adult dog. Age, health, fitness, the individual and the content of the activity determine the load. A slow walk and a search exercise in open ground may take the same amount of time while placing very different demands on the dog.

The breed's original way of working explains what often motivates it: the dog searches quickly and systematically for gamebirds, points when it locates the game, flushes on the handler's command and retrieves after the shot. A companion dog does not need to take part in practical hunting, but everyday life should provide outlets for the same core traits through activities such as movement over varied terrain, scent work, search exercises, retrieving and tasks that require contact with the handler.

Build recall early in a quiet environment and increase distractions gradually. With this breed's hunting drive, a securely enclosed area or a long line is a safer intermediate step than taking a chance off lead. A long line should be attached to a harness and used well away from traffic. Off-lead freedom should come only when the dog can disengage and return even when scent, birds or movement compete for its attention.

For a puppy, short walks, play, environmental learning and simple cooperative exercises are better building blocks than an adult dog's workload. Increase the load gradually and allow plenty of sleep and recovery. The often-repeated “five-minute rule”—five minutes of exercise per month of age—has no scientific support as a universal model and should not replace an assessment of the puppy's size, development and response to the activity.

## Health

For the Irish Setter, it is important to distinguish between conditions that may occur, formal Swedish breeding requirements and test results that are centrally recorded and displayed. A long list of diagnoses tells a puppy buyer less than documented results for the parents and an open account of health among close relatives.

- **Hip dysplasia (HD):** Parent dogs must have an official hip status before mating for the offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The breed also has an HD index. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that the parents' average index be above 100 at the time of mating, and the breed-specific rule states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.
- **CLAD:** Canine leukocyte adhesion deficiency is a serious defect of the white blood cells and is inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. The previous requirement for a DNA test or hereditarily clear status for litter registration was removed in 2014, but results can still be recorded centrally. The breed club continues to recommend testing foreign and imported breeding dogs whose status is unknown.
- **rcd4-PRA:** This is a specific, recessively inherited form of the retinal disease PRA. Following a decision in 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club records and publishes DNA results for Irish Setters in Hunddata and Avelsdata. The test shows the dog's status for the specific rcd4 mutation; it does not rule out other forms of PRA.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' registered hip results and explain the mating's HD index. Also request documented CLAD and rcd4 status and an explanation of how the results informed the mating. Check the information in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata rather than relying on verbal assurances. In addition, ask about recurring disease, mobility problems, eye problems and longevity in parents, siblings and older close relatives. This gives a more relevant picture than assuming that every individual will develop everything ever reported in the breed.

## History & Origins

The Irish Red Setter was developed in Ireland as a working hunting dog, and the modern breed's history is closely tied to gamebird hunting. According to the breed standard, it descends from the Irish Red and White Setter combined with an unknown solid-red dog. A recognisable type existed in Ireland during the 1700s.

The Irish Red Setter Club was founded in 1882 and published a breed standard in 1886. This helped define the identity and characteristics of the solid-red breed. The first imported dogs arrived in Sweden in the 1890s, and the Swedish Irish Setter Club was founded in 1910.

At the core of the breed standard is a functional dog with speed, strength, stamina and a friendly expression. The history is therefore more than background: it explains why hunting drive, a need for movement and work with a handler remain central to life with the breed today.

## Living with the Breed

The Irish Setter is best suited to an active home that can provide daily movement, training and recovery, whether the home is a house or a flat. A garden does not replace activity, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. In a flat, quick access to suitable exercise areas, practical daily routines, noise levels and the dog's ability to settle become particularly important.

The breed can become a warm and close family member, but “good with children” should not be taken to mean risk-free. A large, fast and playful dog can knock over a small child without meaning to. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Adults must remain responsible for walks, exercise and training.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and how introductions are managed. Early exposure is no guarantee, especially with a dog bred to react to bird scent and movement. When introducing a cat, the animals should first have separate safe areas, the cat should have clear escape routes, and early meetings should be calm and use a barrier or lead. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is well understood.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in how easily they learn. Start with very short, uneventful periods when the dog feels secure and increase the duration only when it can relax. A home in which the dog will regularly be left alone for a full working day without help is a poor match.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Does daily life have room for meaningful activity even on dark, rainy working days? Can you train recall and manage the dog safely before it is reliable off lead? Can the breeder show health records and describe the parents as individuals, rather than only by a line label? If any answer is no, it is sensible to choose a less demanding breed or wait.

Irish Setter

The Irish Setter Club of Germany

The Irish Setter Breeders Club (UK)

Graceful Irish gundog with a mahogany red, feathered coat needing regular grooming. Medium‑large, athletic and high‑energy, it thrives on daily vigorous exercise and mental work. Affectionate, people‑oriented and playful, it’s good with families but needs consistent, positive training.

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Pure heart

Vi har fött upp 2 kullar med den här unika korsningen: staffordshire bullterriern Diesel (Backwoods Barby) och dansksvenska gårdshunden Fenris (Gassmans Fenris).
De första kullen för 2 år sedan. Alla valpköparna var mer än nöjda. Efterfrågan  på en kull till har varit stor. Det blev 4 valpar denna gång och en såldes omgående. Resten tingades av valpköpare som ville hämta  valpen senare av olika skäl. Vi var naiva och trodde givetvis att de skulle få de nya hem som utlovats. Men tiden har gått och nu måste Valkyria, Mist och Einar få egna mattar/hussar. Dess valpar är helt unika, för Diesel ska inte ha fler kullar.

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