## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

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## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Kennel Beldio’s

Finsk lapphund - Angel´s Share

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Värmdö kennel

## Quick Facts

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a British companion and toy dog that combines a small frame with a lively, sociable nature. It usually wants to stay close to people, but it needs more than a lap and a few brief toilet walks.

- The breed standard gives a weight of 5.5–8 kg. It does not specify a height; the Swedish Kennel Club describes approximately 30–35 cm as usual.
- The coat is long and silky. The four recognised colours are black and tan, ruby, Blenheim and tricolour.
- The breed ideal is a happy, friendly, affectionate and fearless dog. Individual dogs can still differ markedly in energy, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- A Cavalier needs physical activity, scent work, training and social contact every day. No single exercise target in minutes is meaningful for every dog.
- Health calls for particular care. In Sweden, the breed is covered by a mandatory heart screening programme for breeding, while several other examinations are breed-club recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel should be small, well balanced and free-moving, with a gentle expression. The skull should be almost flat between the ears. The eyes are large, dark and round without being prominent, and the high-set ears are long and heavily feathered. The standard specifies a weight of 5.5–8 kg but no exact height. The figure of 30–35 cm is therefore a usual guide, not a height requirement.

The coat should be long and silky without curls; a slight wave is permitted. There is feathering on the ears, legs, feet and tail. The four colours are:

- **Black and tan:** black with clearly defined tan markings.
- **Ruby:** a solid, deep red.
- **Blenheim:** rich chestnut markings on a pearly white ground.
- **Tricolour:** black and white with tan markings.

The coat needs regular combing, particularly behind the ears, where the soft hair tangles easily. Check the feathering around the feet after walks as well. The standard calls for a natural, untrimmed coat, although thick hair beneath and between the pads may need tidying to prevent felted mats. Gently accustom a puppy to the comb, to having its paws handled and to having its ears and eyes checked; this makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

No dog breed is free of allergens, and the Cavalier is no exception. Dog allergens mainly come from the skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals. Anyone with allergy symptoms should therefore not assess the risk from coat length or breed name alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was bred for companionship and is generally open, affectionate and sociable. The breed standard describes a happy, friendly dog without aggression or nervousness, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

Results from Swedish BPH behaviour assessments provide a more nuanced picture. In an analysis of 192 Swedish-bred Cavaliers, the breed was mainly confident and did not generally react aggressively in social encounters. The average dog was not considered vocal either, although some dogs barked or whined in situations where this was not expected. There is genuine variation behind the breed description. If possible, meet the puppy's mother, ask how both parents behave in daily life and find out whether fear, stress or resource guarding occurs in close relatives.

The breed often fits well into family life and is generally sociable with other dogs. The same safety rules that apply to every dog still apply around young children: an adult should be present, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should learn not to carry the dog, pull its ears or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. Living with a cat depends on the individual dog, previous experience and a calm introduction; the breed name offers no guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

A Cavalier needs to move and use its brain every day, but the right amount depends on age, health, fitness and recovery rather than a fixed number of minutes. A healthy adult can combine walks and off-lead movement in a secure place with scent games, play and short training sessions. Many enjoy obedience, rally obedience or agility at a level suited to the individual.

Short, positive sessions make it easier to maintain focus. Start early with engagement, walking together and recall, and reward the dog for choosing you despite scents and other distractions. Even a companion dog with spaniel ancestry can become absorbed by something interesting outdoors, so use a long line until recall is reliable in that particular environment.

Puppies need to explore, play and rest at their own pace. Avoid generic five-minute rules and instead build activity gradually without pushing a tired puppy. A dog with a heart murmur, heart disease, pain or neurological signs needs an individual plan from a veterinary surgeon.

## Health

Heart health is the most important breed-specific check for a puppy buyer in Sweden. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is particularly predisposed to myxomatous mitral valve disease, or MMVD. The valve between the left atrium and ventricle changes so that blood may leak backwards and produce a heart murmur. A dog can have the disease without visible signs for a long time, while others later develop heart failure.

The breed is covered by a level 3 heart screening programme. To meet the registration rules for the offspring, both parents must have an official certificate showing no heart murmur. The certificate must be no more than 12 months old at the time of mating, and the minimum age for an official heart certificate is three years. This is a minimum standard, not proof that a mating is free from risk. Ask for the parents' registration numbers, check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata services, and consider how long older close relatives remained free of murmurs. The breed club recommends annual heart examinations from the age of three until a murmur is detected, including for dogs no longer used for breeding.

Chiari-like malformation and syringomyelia, CM/SM, are another important health concern. When the skull is too small in relation to the brain, the flow of cerebrospinal fluid may be disrupted and a fluid-filled cavity can form within the spinal cord. Some dogs with mild findings show no clear signs. Others experience pain, become sensitive around the head or neck, are reluctant to move, scratch at the air near the neck, or show weakness and poorer coordination. A veterinary surgeon should assess such signs. MRI can be used in breeding selection, but it is a breed-club recommendation and should not be confused with the mandatory heart programme. Ask the breeder about clinical signs and MRI results in the parents and close relatives.

The Swedish breed club also recommends eye examinations and patellar luxation checks for breeding dogs once they are at least one year old. The distinction matters here too: these are recommended checks, not the same registration requirement as the heart certificate. A buyer therefore needs to distinguish between formal requirements, breed-club recommendations and the combined results seen across the family.

## History & Origins

The modern Cavalier King Charles Spaniel originated in Great Britain and is closely associated with the small spaniels seen in European paintings over several centuries. The dogs gained their royal name through their connection with the House of Stuart and Charles II in particular.

As the short-muzzled type became fashionable, the King Charles Spaniel changed. In 1926, the American Roswell Eldridge offered prizes at Crufts for dogs resembling the older type, with a longer muzzle and flatter skull. A British breed club was founded in 1928, and in 1945 The Kennel Club recognised the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as a separate breed.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and the King Charles Spaniel are therefore not two names for the same dog. They are separate breeds with a shared background, and the Cavalier was developed to recapture more of the older spaniel type.

## Living with the Breed

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel can live well in either a flat or a house if it receives company, walks, mental activity and undisturbed rest. The size of the home is no substitute for a suitable daily routine. The breed can also suit a first-time owner who is prepared to train, care for the coat and take health screening seriously; its small size does not make it automatically low-maintenance.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, once the puppy feels secure at home. Step away for very short periods and increase the duration only when the dog can relax. Whining, persistent barking, destructive behaviour, refusing food or toileting indoors can be signs of distress. Individual dogs cope with different amounts of time alone, so arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more separation than your dog can comfortably manage.

Three checks are particularly valuable before buying a puppy:

1. Check the parents' current heart certificates and the results of older relatives in the Swedish Kennel Club's public records.
2. Ask separately about CM/SM signs and MRI, as well as eye and patella examinations; do not confuse these recommendations with the heart programme requirements.
3. Assess the parents' everyday temperament and how the puppies have been introduced to people, handling and a home environment.

These checks provide a more realistic picture than relying on the breed's friendly reputation alone. A carefully chosen Cavalier can be an engaged and very close companion, but it needs an owner who takes both its social needs and documented health risks seriously.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club UK

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Small, gentle spaniel (5.4–8 kg) with a silky medium coat in Blenheim, Tricolour, Black and Tan, or Ruby. Affectionate, people oriented, and good with children and other pets. Needs regular grooming, moderate exercise, and dislikes long periods alone.

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

## Quick Facts

The German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) is a specialist forest hunting dog for an active hunter, not a companion dog that occasionally comes along on a shoot. It searches for game independently, drives it with a clearly audible hunting voice and is used mainly as a short-driving dog for cloven-hoofed game and wild boar. A trained dog can also work on wounded-game tracking and retrieve on land and in water.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** Group 8, flushing dogs, retrievers and water dogs
- **Size:** males 48–54 cm and females 45–52 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** approximately 18–25 kg, in proportion to the dog's size
- **Working style:** independent woodland search, short drives with an audible voice, tracking wounded game and retrieving
- **Best suited to:** an experienced, active hunter with suitable ground and time for hunting training
- **Coat:** dense undercoat and strong outer coat, usually wavy

The key question before buying is therefore not whether the family can provide a great deal of exercise, but whether the dog will regularly hunt in the way for which the breed was developed. Walks, running and other activities can build fitness and teamwork, but they do not replace the breed's main job.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) is a medium-sized, muscular and slightly rectangular dog with strong bone. It should look like an enduring working dog and must never appear high on the leg. Weight varies with size; females are often slightly lighter than males.

The coat has a dense undercoat and a strong, close-lying outer coat. The outer coat is usually wavy but may be curly or straight. The ears, backs of the legs and underside of the tail carry longer hair. The breed standard has two main colour groups: solid brown or, less commonly, red; and brown roan or, less commonly, red roan. Piebald patterns and tan markings also occur within these colour groups.

The coat should be brushed and bathed when needed but is not trimmed. Hair between the toes may occasionally need shortening. For a hunting dog, a check after the day's work matters more than a rigid weekly timetable: feel over the skin, legs and paws, remove seeds and twigs, and look for wounds or ticks. Dry a wet dog and inspect the ears. A bad smell, repeated head shaking, brown debris or irritation in an ear calls for veterinary advice, not experiments with strong cleaning products.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) should be friendly, steady and free from aggression towards people, while showing strong hunting drive, courage and independence in the forest. This distinction matters: sharpness towards game is a working trait and is not the same as aggression in everyday life.

The breed standard describes a dog that learns readily and adapts well, while the breed club stresses both independence and willingness to cooperate. That does not mean every individual will be easy or quiet at home. Hunting drive, range, voice, sharpness, responsiveness and ability to settle vary between dogs and bloodlines. Ask how both parents behave during practical hunting and once work is over, and request information about siblings and previous offspring where it is available.

A German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) can live happily in a family when the adults take responsibility for hunting, training and recovery. A dog and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left alone. Living with other dogs may work well, but sociability must be assessed in the individual. A cat or small pet requires an especially careful introduction, and the animals must be kept apart whenever nobody is supervising. Early familiarity does not remove the risks associated with the breed's strong hunting drive or guarantee that a particular pair of animals will live safely together.

## Training & Exercise

Practical hunting and a planned introduction to the work are at the heart of training a German Spaniel (Wachtelhund). The breed is suitable only for an active hunter with access to ground where a short-driving dog can work appropriately. It also needs year-round physical conditioning and mental activity; a set number of minutes per day cannot suit every dog, day or stage of training.

As a short-driving dog, it should find game, follow the scent accurately with a consistent, clearly audible hunting voice and return when the quarry leaves the area being hunted. The Swedish Kennel Club often gives 5–30 minutes as a typical range for a drive, but the current breed strategy explains that duration depends on contact with the quarry: a dog may break off sooner when the animal moves well away and work for longer when it circles or stands its ground. The time is guidance, not a promise for every drive.

Priorities from an early age include:

- contact, recall and a confident return to the handler
- steadiness and the ability to switch between activity and rest
- a woodland search suited to the ground, quarry and type of hunting
- tracking, retrieving and water work introduced progressively and under good control
- calm handling of paws, ears and body after a day's hunting

Breed-club tests assess qualities including scent-trail interest, woodland search, voice while chasing, response to gunfire, search and pursuit, and retrieving. Test results therefore say more about the parents' working ability than broad descriptions such as “from working lines” or “easy to train”. Outside the hunting season, fitness, obedience, tracking, retrieving and confidence in water should be maintained in a plan that allows for the dog's age, health and recovery.

## Health

The current Swedish breed strategy describes the German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) as broadly sound, but its work makes hunting injuries a major practical health risk. The insurance information reported in that document identifies trauma as the most common reason for veterinary claims. Check the dog after hunting and seek veterinary care for lameness, pain, wounds, an eye injury or a change in general condition.

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are monitored through radiography and official grading. The Swedish Kennel Club's current registration rules require both parents to have official hip and elbow results before mating. An HD index is also calculated. A radiographic grade is a breeding tool and, on its own, does not show whether an individual dog has or will develop clinical problems.

The Swedish Wachtelhund Club's puppy-referral rules go further than the Kennel Club's registration requirements. They include HD grade A or B, ED grade 0, hunting assessment and an approved response to gunfire for breeding dogs. Rules and recommendations can change, so always check the current versions and distinguish between what is required for registration and what the breed club requires for its own referral service.

The information on allergies and ear inflammation is not entirely consistent. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed information notes an increase and advises buyers to check parents and siblings. The current breed strategy, however, says that no disease has been identified as specific to the breed or clearly more common than average. Ask specifically about recurring itch, skin disease and ear problems in the family without assuming that every German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) will be affected. The Kennel Club's breed information also mentions an eye health programme, while the breed-specific registration provisions expressly list official HD and ED results.

## History & Origins

The German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) comes from Germany and was shaped as a versatile dog for hunting in forest and water. Similar hunting dogs have been known for several centuries, but organised studbook breeding of the modern breed began around 1900. Early breeding developed the brown and brown-roan colour lines while keeping hunting function at the centre.

The breed reached Sweden during the Second World War through contacts between hunters. The first Swedish registrations were recorded in 1942. The dogs were used there as forest hunting dogs that drove game with an audible voice and as water retrievers, among other roles. Interest rose markedly during the 1980s when hunters sought an effective short-driving dog, and the Swedish Wachtelhund Club was founded in 1987. Swedish breeding has continued to place great weight on practical hunting and tests that describe search, voice, pursuit, response to gunfire and versatility.

## Living with the Breed

The German Spaniel (Wachtelhund) is best suited to a home where an adult hunts actively, has access to suitable ground and wants to spend substantial time developing as a handler. It is rarely a sensible first choice for someone with no experience of demanding hunting dogs. An inexperienced but active hunter would need close support from the breeder, breed club and knowledgeable handlers from the outset.

A house and large garden are no substitute for work, and living in a flat is not automatically impossible. What matters is whether daily life provides hunting, training, outdoor activity, recovery and a plan that prevents the dog's voice from disturbing neighbours. Time alone should be introduced gradually, beginning with short, calm periods. Do not plan a routine in which the dog is regularly left alone throughout a full working day.

Ask the breeder to show and explain:

- the parents' official HD and ED results and how the indices for the planned mating were assessed
- hunting-test results, response to gunfire and experience from practical hunting
- how search, drive duration, voice, return and cooperation look in real situations
- any history of allergies, ear problems or other recurring conditions in parents, siblings and previous offspring
- the type of hunting and ground for which the litter is intended

A good choice is not about finding the “highest-drive” puppy. It is about choosing a puppy from parents with documented qualities that fit the hunting and handling you can genuinely provide.

German Spaniel (Wachtelhund)

German Spaniel Club of Germany (Verein Deutsch Wachtelhund e.V.)

The German Kennel Club (VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen)

United Kingdom German Spaniel Club

Svenska Jägareförbundet (Swedish Hunters Association)

Medium, robust German hunting spaniel built for dense cover, with a thick, weather‑resistant coat in brown or brown-white. Very loyal, often one-person focused yet family friendly. Highly energetic, driven working gundog that needs intensive exercise and meaningful tasks; still uncommon outside Germany.

Purple Mist

Lejoncrona

Pointer

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The Pointer is an athletic, elegant gundog known for its distinctive pointing stance and strong scenting skills. Affectionate, sensitive, and people focused, it needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise and mental work. Its short, smooth coat is low maintenance, suiting active, outdoorsy owners.

Föder upp  pointer och ungersk korthårig vizsla i liten skala.Valparna föds upp i hemmiljö och bor alla sina 8 v i familjens kök omgiven av de vuxna pointrarna och vizslorna.
Valparna säljs i enlighet med SKKs regler och är chippade, vaccinerade och besiktade. Vi föder upp med hänsyn tagna till att valparna skall nedärva de arbetsförmågor som kännetecknar rasen. Köper du en valp från Woodwelike kan du räkna med livslångt stöd och vänskap. Vi vill att du som vill ha en valp från oss kommer på besök och träffar våra hundar och ser vår hundhållning och är positiv till att hålla kontakt hundens hela liv. Vi erbjuder årliga kennelträffar och kontinuerligt stöd och träningshjälp vid behov.

Woodwelike

## Quick Facts

The Halden Hound (Haldenstøver) is a rare Norwegian scenthound used mainly to hunt hare and fox. It can be calm and friendly at home, but it has been bred to work independently with a strong desire to hunt. The Swedish Kennel Club is clear that this is not a breed for companionship alone: a prospective owner should be an active hunter with access to suitable hunting ground.

- **Origin:** Norway, with close links to the area around Halden.
- **Purpose:** A hound that hunts alone, finding a scent trail and pursuing game while giving tongue.
- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height at the withers of 52–60 cm for males and 50–58 cm for females.
- **Coat:** Short, straight and very dense, with a dense undercoat. The base colour is white with black patches and tan markings.
- **Temperament:** Affectionate, calm and friendly at home; enduring, determined and independent when hunting.
- **The key question before buying:** Do you want, and are you able, to give this dog a genuine working life as a hunting hound? Ordinary walks and enrichment toys do not replace the job for which the breed was developed.

The Halden Hound can therefore be both a family member and a hunting dog, but the order matters: it succeeds as a family dog when its hunting drive and need for activity are given an appropriate outlet.

## Appearance & Coat

The Halden Hound is a medium-sized, rectangular and strong dog that should never look heavy. Its body is built for sustained work: the back should be strong, the chest deep and the movement light, parallel and ground-covering. The head is medium-sized and well balanced, the eyes are dark brown with a calm expression, and the drop ears reach roughly halfway along the muzzle when pulled forwards.

Colour is a straightforward way to recognise the breed. White should predominate, with black patches and tan markings on the head and legs and, sometimes, between the black and white areas. Under the breed standard, black must not be the dominant colour.

The coat has harsh, dense and straight outer hair with a dense undercoat. It requires relatively little work compared with a long coat or one that needs trimming. Brush and bathe the dog as required. After hunting, it is also sensible to check the coat, paws and drop ears before the dog settles down to rest.

## Temperament & Personality

The Nordic kennel clubs describe the Halden Hound as friendly, affectionate and calm at home, but with a strong hunting drive and great stamina in the forest. These traits are not contradictory. A dog can relax with its family after work while still making its own decisions when following a scent.

Independence is central to the breed's working style. When hunting, the dog searches and pursues game at a distance from its handler, giving tongue so the hunter can follow the progress of the chase. That is valuable in the field, but it means everyday life must take account of the dog's desire to hunt, its voice and its ability to follow scent despite other cues.

Can a Halden Hound live with children? There is not enough breed-specific evidence to promise that every individual will be good with children. The documented friendly temperament is an encouraging starting point, but a puppy's experiences, the adult dog's personality and the family's routines all matter. Children and dogs need calm introductions, adult supervision and a resting place where the dog will not be disturbed.

The same caution applies to other animals. There is no strong evidence for making sweeping promises about cats or other dogs. The hunting drive means that small animals and unfamiliar cats outdoors may trigger pursuit, even if a particular dog lives successfully with an animal it has known from an early age. Assess the individual dog and arrange secure separation whenever nobody is supervising.

## Training & Exercise

The Halden Hound needs plenty of physical activity and a job suited to a working scenthound. The most useful guidance is therefore not a fixed number of minutes each day, but access to hunting, suitable ground and a routine that develops fitness, co-operation and recovery for work.

The Norwegian Kennel Club describes the breed as easy to train, while its hunting style remains independent. Start early with recall, engagement, lead manners, settling and calm handling, then increase distractions gradually. A reliable recall is important, but it cannot remove the risks created by a strong hunting drive. Away from controlled hunting, a long line or securely enclosed area is often wiser than off-lead freedom near wildlife or traffic.

When the dog is not hunting, tracking, search exercises and varied outings can give its nose a worthwhile task. Such activities are a supplement, not a reason to buy the breed without opportunities to hunt. Exercise and arousal should also be treated as separate issues: a dog bred for stamina must learn to rest at home, rather than simply being given ever longer training sessions.

The Halden Hound is best suited to an owner who values an independent partnership. Someone who wants a dog that constantly waits for the next detailed instruction may find the hound's initiative difficult. For a hunter, that same initiative is part of the breed's purpose.

## Health

The Halden Hound is generally described as a functional and healthy hunting dog, but the small population makes reliable prevalence figures difficult to establish. The Swedish Kennel Club expressly states that the very small number of dogs in Sweden is insufficient for a firm assessment of the breed's health. It is therefore more accurate to explain what buyers should check than to present a long list of “common” diseases.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' official hip dysplasia (HD) results. The Norwegian Kennel Club's breeding programme for the Norwegian hounds recommends screening breeding dogs and using only dogs graded A, B or C; a dog graded C should be mated to one that is clear of HD. Ask about epilepsy and hypothyroidism in close relatives as well. The joint NKK breeding programme prioritises gathering information about these conditions, but that does not mean there are sufficient data to say how common they are specifically in the Halden Hound.

The clearest long-term concern is the narrow breeding base. NKK reports that only around 10–20 puppies have been newly registered per year in recent years and considers this level dangerously low for the breed's future. At the same time, many different parents were used for the 23 litters registered in 2019–2024: 21 males and 20 females. For a puppy buyer, this means the breeder should be able to explain how the proposed parents are related, why they were chosen and how the breeding plan avoids giving any one dog too much influence.

A small population is not in itself proof of poor health. It does, however, create greater uncertainty and makes open reporting of health, hunting ability and relatedness particularly important. Check the current recommendations with the breed club, as breeding programmes can change.

## History & Origins

The Halden Hound was developed around the town of Halden in south-eastern Norway during the latter half of the nineteenth century. According to SKK and NKK, English Foxhounds, Harriers and Beagles, together with local hounds, formed part of its background. The crosses produced a distinct and relatively uniform type intended for hunting by scent.

The breed has come close to disappearing several times. Its narrow breeding base was a problem from the outset, and a distemper outbreak in 1931 and the Second World War severely reduced the population. Dedicated breeders rebuilt it after the war, and it was recognised as a separate breed in Norway in 1952. The FCI recognises it as a Norwegian, medium-sized scenthound in Group 6 and lists it as subject to a working trial.

The first Halden Hound was registered in Sweden in 1983. The breed remains scarce even in its country of origin. Today's planned exchange of breeding material between Norwegian hound breeds and carefully approved outcrosses should therefore be understood as conservation work, not as evidence that the Halden Hound lacks its own recognised breed identity.

## Living with the Breed

The Halden Hound is best suited to an active hunter who wants to work a hound alone on hare or fox and also wants a friendly dog at home. There are more suitable choices for someone who mainly wants a companion, even if that home can provide long walks.

Living in a flat is not automatically impossible, but the size of the home does not answer the important questions. You must be able to manage the dog's voice, strong interest in scent, safe exercise and regular transport to suitable ground. A house with a garden is not enough either if the dog lacks work and companionship.

Time alone must be introduced gradually for the individual dog; there is no sound breed-specific number of hours. A household where the dog would routinely be left through long working days, without a plan for supervision or activity, is nevertheless a poor starting point. Secure gates and consistent lead routines matter, because a scent trail outside the door can be extremely motivating.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to the following:

- I have a clear purpose for the breed's hunting work and access to suitable ground.
- I accept that a scenthound works independently and may use its voice extensively.
- I have a safe plan for recall training, long-line work and any off-lead exercise in areas with wildlife.
- The breeder provides HD results, discusses health in the family openly and can explain how the proposed parents are related.
- The family's children and other animals can be introduced and managed without taking either hunting drive or a friendly temperament for granted.

For the right hunter, the Halden Hound offers a particularly clear combination: an enduring and determined hunting dog outdoors, and a calm, affectionate family member when its needs are genuinely met.

Halden Hound (Haldenstøver)

The Norwegian Hound Club

The Halden Hound is a rare Norwegian scenthound, medium-sized, athletic and robust, bred to hunt hare in cold, snowy terrain. Calm and affectionate at home but driven in the field, it has a short white coat with black and tan markings, low grooming needs, and high exercise demands.

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Vi legger stor vekt på valpenes tidlige utvikling, og valpene vokser opp i et aktivt og sosialt miljø med mye stimulering, håndtering og positive opplevelser. De blir tidlig eksponert for ulike lyder, underlag, berøring og hverdagsmiljøer for å bygge trygghet og nysgjerrighet. Valpene får også jevnlig besøk av både barn og voksne slik at de blir vant til mennesker i alle aldre og situasjoner. I tillegg introduseres de for blant annet bilkjøring og nye omgivelser før levering.

Drømmehunden

Joytriever

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Välkommen till Snowie Shine's Kennel

Jag föder upp vita dvärgschnauzer med fokus på friska, trygga och sociala familjehundar. Mitt intresse startade 2001 när jag som 13-åring fick min första vita dvärgschnauzer. Jag är uppvuxen med hunduppfödning och har lång erfarenhet av rasen.

Jag driver Snowie Shine's Kennel och valparna växer upp i vår hemmiljö som en självklar del av familjen.

Vi satsar på vardagslydnad, tricks och agility för trygga och nyfikna hundar. Valparna socialiseras i vardagen och får en stabil start innan de flyttar till sina nya hem.

Hör av dig om du söker en fyrbent familjemedlem.

Snowie Shine’s Kennel

Sky Crystal Rose

Uppfödning i hemmiljö av dvärgschnauzer peppar o salt.

ELOFINS KENNEL

## Quick Facts

A Labradoodle is a cross between a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle, not a dog breed with a single standard recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club. The name therefore says less about an individual dog than many people assume: size, coat, shedding, temperament and health risks can vary even within the same litter.

- Always ask which Poodle size is actually present in the ancestry. Toy, Miniature, Medium and Standard Poodles have very different heights.
- F1, F1b and similar labels describe ancestry. They do not guarantee a particular size, coat, allergy response or personality.
- A Labradoodle may inherit retrieving interest and quick learning, but the traits are not combined in the same way in every dog.
- The coat may be straighter, wavy or curly and may shed as well as mat. No Labradoodle can be guaranteed to be suitable for someone with allergies.
- The cross is best suited to an owner who wants to train, provide activities and maintain the coat regularly, and who can adapt daily life to the actual dog.
- Health screening must be assessed separately for each parent according to the risks and recommendations for the Labrador Retriever and the relevant Poodle size.

An Australian Labradoodle is not automatically the same as a first-generation Labrador–Poodle cross. It is a separate type developed over several generations, with other breeds also present in its ancestry. Always ask what the breeder means by the name and which registry or breeding programme the dogs belong to.

## Appearance & Coat

There is no single official size or body shape for a Labradoodle. The Labrador standard gives an ideal height of 56–57 centimetres for males and 54–56 centimetres for females. Poodles, by contrast, range from Toy at over 24 up to and including 28 centimetres, through Miniature and Medium, to Standard at over 45 up to and including 60 centimetres with a two-centimetre upper tolerance. A general label such as ‘mini’, ‘medium’ or ‘standard’ is therefore not enough to tell you how large the dog will become.

The best estimate combines:

- the Poodle size actually present in the ancestry
- the measured height and weight of both parents
- the size of adult full and half-siblings and previous litters
- the dog's sex and build

The parents reveal more than a generation label. According to its standard, the Labrador has a short, dense coat with a water-resistant undercoat, whereas the Poodle has a curly coat that continues to grow. Coat length, curl, density and shedding can therefore differ between littermates and change as the puppy coat is replaced by the adult coat.

Low visible shedding is not the same as low allergy risk. Dog allergens come mainly from skin, saliva and urine, not only from hair. There are no allergen-free dogs, and one person may react differently to different individuals. Anyone who already has a pet allergy should therefore not buy a puppy on the strength of words such as ‘hypoallergenic’ or ‘allergy-friendly’.

Coat care must be guided by the coat the dog actually develops. With a longer or curlier coat, a comb needs to pass all the way to the skin without catching. Pay particular attention behind the ears, under a harness and collar, in the armpits, groin and on the legs. Wet coat needs to be dried and detangled. How often the dog needs combing and clipping depends on coat length, texture and lifestyle; a knowledgeable groomer can help create a realistic routine. Introduce handling gradually and positively.

## Temperament & Personality

A Labradoodle may be sociable, cooperative and lively, but the cross does not come with a ready-made ‘best of both breeds’ personality. The Labrador and Poodle breed ideals describe friendly, active and trainable dogs, but inheritance, parental behaviour, early experiences, health and training all affect the individual.

A British owner survey published in 2026 compared behaviour in 583 Labradoodles with Labradors and Poodles. The pattern was mixed: Labradoodles scored better than Poodles on six of twelve behavioural scales but worse than Labradors on five. The study covered dogs up to five years old and cannot predict a puppy's personality. It also found no direct evidence that Labradoodles are generally especially suitable for families with children.

If possible, meet the mother and other closely related adult dogs. Watch how they approach people, recover after something unexpected, accept handling and settle. Ask how adult dogs from previous litters cope with everyday life, not only what colour or coat they have.

Children and Labradoodles can live well together, but an adult must always be present with young children. The dog needs a protected resting place, and children should not climb on, restrain or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. A young, strong and enthusiastic dog can knock over a child without being aggressive, so calm greetings and keeping all four paws on the floor are important everyday skills.

The same caution applies to other animals. Social interest is not the same as good dog-park manners, and a Labradoodle is not automatically safe with cats. Consider the individual's experience and tendency to chase. Introduce animals in stages, give them their own safe places and supervise their interactions.

## Training & Exercise

A Labradoodle needs both physical movement and tasks involving scent, thought and cooperation every day, but no universal number of minutes suits every dog. Age, size, health, intensity and recovery determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates walks, opportunities to move freely in a safe place, scent work, retrieving, problem-solving, training and undisturbed rest.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the cross's often rapid learning. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe and calm:

- attention and loose-lead walking
- recall and the ability to disengage from distractions
- giving up and releasing objects without conflict
- calm greetings with people and dogs
- waiting and settling even when something is happening
- comfortable handling of coat, ears, mouth and paws

Retrieving, search work, tracking, nosework and rally obedience can provide an outlet for the parent breeds' working drive. However, not every individual enjoys the same activity or water.

For puppies, load, difficulty and duration should increase gradually. Stiffness, reluctance or poor recovery show that the plan needs to change. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, self-control and the ability to rest.

## Health

There is no evidence that a Labradoodle is automatically healthier or less healthy than both parent breeds. A 2024 British study included 9,402 young dogs and 342 comparisons between three Poodle crosses and their parent breeds. There was no statistically significant difference in 86.6 per cent of the comparisons. Among 583 Labradoodles, most of the 57 conditions examined did not differ from Poodles or Labradors. The study relied on owner reports about dogs up to five years old and does not replace long-term breeding follow-up.

Health assessment must instead begin with each parent. A Labrador used in pedigree breeding under Swedish Kennel Club rules must have an official hip status, while the Swedish Labrador Retriever Club additionally recommends hips and elbows without recorded dysplasia and a current eye examination. Standard Poodles have a Swedish hip programme; Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles instead have a programme requiring a prcd-PRA result. These rules apply to the pedigree parents, not as a compulsory ‘Labradoodle package’, but they show why the exact Poodle size must be known.

Ask to see the evidence rather than accepting the phrase ‘health-tested parents’. Check:

- that the document belongs to the correct dog and can be linked to its identity or registration number
- the date, method, issuer and actual result of the examination
- hip, elbow and eye results relevant to each parent
- which DNA tests were performed and the single disease each test covers
- disease, mobility problems and temperament in siblings, previous offspring and older close relatives

A clear DNA result for one mutation says nothing about other diseases. A cross can inherit risk variants from both sides even when genetic diversity is greater.

In the 2024 study, Labradoodles had higher odds of otitis externa than Labradors, but this does not mean every individual will be affected. Seek veterinary advice for head shaking, itching, pain, redness, swelling or foul-smelling discharge. Recurring problems need investigation; do not clean an irritated ear without veterinary advice.

## History & Origins

The best-documented modern starting point for the name Labradoodle is a litter born in 1989 at the then Royal Guide Dogs Association of Australia, now Guide Dogs Victoria. Breeding manager Wally Conron mated the Labrador bitch Brandy with the Standard Poodle Harley for a visually impaired client whose husband had an allergy. Of the three puppies, one, Sultan, was considered suitable for the client and later worked as a guide dog.

The name Labradoodle was used to create interest when it was harder to find homes for dogs described simply as crossbreeds. It made the cross well known, but did not create a common breed standard. Some breeders have continued with Labrador–Poodle crosses, while others have continued breeding for several generations under their own registries.

An Australian Labradoodle therefore has a different background from a straightforward Labrador–Poodle cross. Genetic research on these dogs shows contributions from breeds other than Labrador and Poodle and that Poodle ancestry predominates. A puppy buyer should ask for an understandable pedigree or ancestry record and not assume that all dogs sold under similar names have the same background.

## Living with the Breed

A Labradoodle is best suited to a home with time for training, activity, recovery and regular coat care, and one that accepts that the adult dog may not match a marketed size or coat label. It is rarely a good choice for someone whose main aim is a non-shedding, self-sufficient or guaranteed easy family dog.

Living in a flat can work if the dog's needs are met outdoors, it can settle indoors and it does not disturb neighbours. A garden does not replace walks or training. Time alone needs to be taught in small steps while the dog is secure and relaxed. Some adult dogs manage a few hours, while others become worried much sooner; failure to settle means the difficulty needs to be reduced.

Use a practical pre-purchase check before deciding:

- Ask for the exact ancestry, Poodle size and meaning of the breeder's generation and size labels.
- Compare the actual size, coat, behaviour and ability to settle of the parents and adult relatives.
- Read the original health results and ask why those particular examinations were chosen for both parents.
- Meet the puppies with their mother in the environment where they were raised and see how the breeder handles everyday sounds, handling and recovery.
- Make sure the household has a plan for coat care, dog care, training and gradual time alone, including during the dog's demanding early years.

When the answers are specific and the documents can be checked, it is easier to assess that particular planned litter. For a Labradoodle, the individual dog, its parents and the breeder's work are more informative than the name itself.

Labradoodle

UK Labradoodle Association

Labradoodle Club of Great Britain

The Labradoodle is a medium-to-large, athletic cross of Labrador Retriever and Poodle, known for its friendly, people-focused nature and high trainability. Coats vary from curly low-shedding to shaggy and shedding, needing regular grooming. Best for active homes offering daily exercise and mental stimulation.

Om vår uppfödning 🐾
På Lyckornas Labradoodle föds våra valpar upp i hemmiljö och är en naturlig del av vardagen från första dagen. Vi lägger stor vikt vid trygghet, närhet och tidig socialisering för att ge varje valp de bästa förutsättningarna inför livet i sin nya familj.
Vårt mål är att föda upp friska och harmoniska hundar med ett stabilt temperament och ett vänligt sätt. Valparna växer upp med mycket kärlek, omsorg och daglig kontakt med människor och vardagens alla ljud.
För oss är det viktigt att varje valp får en trygg start och hamnar i ett kärleksfullt och ansvarsfullt hem. 💛

Lyckornaslabradoodle

Gullvivans gyllene jyckar

Canis

Stormhjärta

Familjeuppfödning av jaktlabrador. Föds upp för användning inom jakt, arbete eller andra hundsporter. Våra valpar socialiseras med andra hundar, människor och barn i olika åldrar. Vårt mål är att främja rasen genom att avla fram arbetsvilliga och friska hundar.

Våra krav på köpare är ett aktivt, kärleksfullt och fint hem där beslutet att skaffa valp/hund är ett genomtänkt beslut. Vi erbjuder valpträning där kullen får träffas igen och tränas tillsammans och efter att de blivit 1 år blir de inbjudna till kennelträff som hålls minst en gång per år.

Big Bay

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Vi er et lite familieoppdrett av storpuddel med fokus på helse og gemytt.

Almaluros kennel

## Quick Facts

The Bearded Collie is an active British herding and companion dog for someone willing to devote plenty of time to exercise and coat care. The breed can be quick to learn and enjoyable to train, but needs proper exercise every day, opportunities to think and help learning how to settle. Its long coat must be groomed right down to the skin.

- **Origin and type:** Great Britain; herding and companion dog in FCI Group 1.
- **Size:** the ideal height is 53–56 cm for males and 51–53 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify a weight.
- **Build:** the body should be longer than it is tall, in a ratio of about 5:4, without looking heavy.
- **Activity level:** a substantial daily need for exercise, opportunities to run and varied mental activity.
- **Coat:** a long double coat that collects grit, twigs and moisture and can mat unless groomed thoroughly.
- **Temperament:** the ideal is an alert, lively, confident and intelligent dog. Sociability, playfulness and responses to sound vary between individuals.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents' official hip dysplasia results and hip index, and ask about elbow results, sound sensitivity, Addison's disease, SLO and other autoimmune disease in close relatives.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner. It is less suitable if long periods alone, a quiet daily routine or reluctance to groom regularly are already part of the plan.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bearded Collie should be agile, strong and mobile rather than heavy. Its rectangular outline comes from the 5:4 ratio between body length and height. Quality and proportions matter more than a slight departure from the ideal height. As the standard specifies no weight, body condition is more useful than a general weight range.

The Bearded Collie has a double coat. The undercoat should be soft, woolly and close, while the outer coat should be flat, harsh, strong and shaggy. A slight wave is permitted, but the coat should not be woolly or curly, nor so profuse that it hides the dog's natural outline. The standard states that the coat must never be trimmed.

Accepted base colours are slate grey, reddish fawn, black, blue, all shades of grey, brown and sandy, with or without white markings. Merle or dapple is not accepted. White may appear on areas including the muzzle, head, tip of the tail, chest, legs and feet. A white collar must not extend behind the shoulders, and white must not rise above the hocks on the outside of the hindlegs.

In daily life, the aim is a mat-free coat and skin that can be inspected. The Swedish Kennel Club gives a thorough grooming session roughly once a week as a guide, but coat, age, weather and activity determine the workload. Part the coat in layers all the way to the skin. Behind the ears, the groin and the backs of the thighs are common trouble spots; check the beard and feet as well.

Bathe the dog when dirty rather than following a fixed routine. A damp coat left without being groomed can mat. Teach a puppy early to lie calmly on its side and accept a comb passing through the coat. If the coat has become felted, the dog's skin takes priority over the show ideal; get help rather than pulling at hard mats.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Bearded Collie should be alert, lively, active and confident, without nervousness or aggression. Many are responsive, playful and sociable, but the ideal cannot guarantee how every dog will respond to people, dogs or new surroundings.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis offers a more nuanced picture. BPH records behavioural responses; it is not a test that a dog passes or fails. The analysis covers the part of the breed that took part and cannot capture every variation. The material showed clear differences in greetings, play, exploration and responses to surfaces and surprises.

Sound is a particularly important consideration. Both sound-stable and sound-sensitive Bearded Collies exist. Ask how strongly the parents respond and whether they recover after thunder, clattering noises or gunshots, for example, and read any available BPH or MH results. A breed average is no substitute for information about the family line.

The breed's background does not mean that every individual automatically tries to herd children or has the same herding ability. The breed-specific breeding strategy stresses that herding behaviour depends greatly on individual aptitude and does not follow from the breed name alone. Bouncy greetings, chasing movement or barking should therefore be assessed and trained as that dog's behaviour, not excused as unavoidable breed traits.

## Training & Exercise

The Bearded Collie needs substantial daily exercise and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy adult needs varied walks, opportunities to move more freely in a safe place and tasks that require concentration. Age, fitness, health and recovery should determine the workload.

Train kindly, clearly and with rewards. Adjust sessions according to whether the dog remains engaged and can take a break. Early priorities include:

- calm greetings and the ability to relax despite movement nearby,
- recall and long-line safety before allowing greater freedom,
- loose-lead skills and engagement around other dogs,
- gradual exposure to sounds and environments without forcing the dog through fear,
- cooperative handling for the extensive coat care.

The breed is described as an upright, loose-eyed herder: it works standing up rather than using the fixed “eye” associated with some other sheepdogs. Herding aptitude still differs between individuals. Anyone interested in herding can use the official aptitude test, available for the breed since 2007, rather than assuming the ability is present.

Obedience, agility, nosework, tracking, freestyle, working trials and herding can all be suitable. Choose according to the dog's body and motivation. A sound routine combines activity, problem-solving and recovery; simply increasing the intensity does not always help a dog settle.

## Health

The main documented concerns in Swedish breeding work are the hips and elbows, together with the autoimmune conditions Addison's disease and SLO. This does not mean that every Bearded Collie will become ill, but buyers should be able to review results and family history rather than settle for a general assurance that the parents are healthy.

The Bearded Collie is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's Level 2 health programme for hip dysplasia, so breeding dogs must have an official hip status before mating. Under the general 2026 rules, a dog graded E must not be bred from; a dog graded D may only be mated to one graded A or B, and a dog with hip dysplasia symptoms must not be bred from regardless of grade. The breed-specific breeding strategy also recommends that the parents' average hip index — the preliminary litter index — should be above 100. Ask for both the letter grades and the index at the time of mating.

Elbow dysplasia results are recorded centrally, but elbow X-rays are not a registration requirement for the breed in Sweden. The breed-specific breeding strategy reports on 290 X-rayed Swedish-born dogs from the 2013–2022 cohorts; 21, or 7.2 per cent, had an abnormal result. That figure describes the examined group, not all dogs. Known elbow results for the parents still provide more information than unknown ones.

Addison's disease involves insufficient production of hormones by the adrenal glands. Signs may include weakness, tiredness, poor appetite and vomiting, and diagnosis is made with an ACTH stimulation test. The breed has a genetic predisposition, but there is no established genetic test. In the breed club's voluntary 2020 health survey, 5 of 282 dogs, or 1.8 per cent, were reported as diagnosed. That figure applies to the survey group.

SLO, symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy, is an autoimmune condition that can cause claw sheaths to detach. Diagnosis may be confirmed by biopsy. In the same survey, SLO was reported in 7 of 282 dogs, or 2.5 per cent. Ask the breeder about Addison's disease, SLO and other autoimmune diagnoses in the parents, siblings and close relatives. The breeding strategy recommends removing affected dogs from breeding and avoiding a mating in which both dogs have close relatives with autoimmune disease.

## History & Origins

The Bearded Collie developed as a herding dog in Scotland and northern England. Dogs of a similar type appear in Scottish sources from the sixteenth century, and long-coated sheepdogs were used in the eighteenth century to drive livestock from the Highlands to markets farther south.

The foundation of the modern Bearded Collie was laid in Great Britain in the 1940s by G Olive Willison and her Bothkennar kennel. The Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1955. The first Bearded Collie arrived in Sweden in 1960, and the FCI definitively recognised breed number 271 on 30 August 1967.

The background explains the ideal of a mobile, enduring and cooperative dog, but does not predict every individual's behaviour.

## Living with the Breed

A Bearded Collie can live in a flat if it receives suitable exercise, toileting opportunities and training outside the home. The size of the home does not meet its exercise needs, and a garden does not replace shared walks and activities. In a block of flats, the dog's response to sounds in the stairwell or outside the door becomes a practical consideration. Ask about sound sensitivity in the family line and teach calm routines from the start.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and training begins with very short, calm separations once the puppy feels secure at home. The individual's signals determine how quickly the time can increase. Repeated distress, whining, barking or difficulty settling means the step is too difficult; it is not a reason to make the absence longer until the dog “gets used to it”.

With children, use the same safety rules as with any dog: an adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a protected resting place where it is left undisturbed. A lively adolescent dog can knock a child over without meaning harm. Teach both child and dog calm greetings, and interrupt chasing or overbearing play early.

The same care applies to other animals. The fact that many individuals are sociable or have limited chase drive does not guarantee that a particular dog will live safely with a cat or small pet. For dog–cat introductions, give the cat a secure dog-free area and access to high places. Begin at a distance, prevent chasing and do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over time.

The coat makes daily life messier than photographs suggest: plan for towels, post-walk checks and time to clean the beard and feet. The breed is not hypoallergenic. Dog allergens are found mainly in skin and saliva, and the amount a dog sheds does not show whether it will be suitable for someone with an allergy.

Assess the current litter, not just the breed's reputation. Meet adult relatives if possible, watch how they recover after sounds, ask for a complete grooming demonstration and check joint results and health history. This makes it easier to decide whether the dog's needs suit your daily life.

Bearded Collie

The Bearded Collie Club - UK

Svenska Bearded Collie Klubben (Sweden)

German Bearded Collie Club

The Bearded Collie is a lively Scottish herding dog with a shaggy double coat, bright eyes, and an agile build. Affectionate, intelligent, and sensitive, it needs plenty of daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming. Generally healthy, it often lives 12–14 years or more.

Hillbacka

Smooth Fox Terrier

Kennel Club (UK)

Deutscher Foxterrier-Verband e.V. (Germany)

The Smooth Fox Terrier is a small, athletic, people‑oriented terrier with a short, easy‑care coat. Energetic, intelligent and independent, it needs plenty of exercise, training and mental stimulation. Affectionate yet intense, especially with small animals, it suits active, consistent owners.

04.03.2026, kom det 5 flotte Glatthårs Fox Terrier-jenter til verden.
Nå er det 3 valper igjen som trenger et nytt, godt og aktivt hjem.
Dette er mitt første kull, derfor har jeg foreløpig ikke registrert noe kennelnavn.
Kullet er for øvrig registrert i NKK.

Det som karakteriserer en Fox Terrier er dens sprudlende livsglede og robuste helse. 
Dette er en særdeles frisk rase og det er en av grunnene til at rasen øker i popularitet. 
Får de god omsorg, mye kos, blir holdt aktive og får et godt kosthold kan de godt bikke 16 år eller mer.

En Fox Terrier er en gøyal og lojal familiehund for folk som er aktive. De elsker å være med deg der det skjer noe. Er alltid klar for et eventyr eller lek. Og de liker veldig godt å kose seg sammen med deg i sofaen.

En Fox Terrier er kjærlig, intelligent, arbeidsvillig, lærenem og modig - slett ingen tøffelhelt!
De liker en oppgave og egner seg derfor godt til agility, rally-lydighet, nosework og spor, eller som hihund.

Disse flotte hundene er lette å håndtere - ikke for liten og ikke for stor.

De lukter lite.

Røyter bare 2 ganger i året. Hårene er relativt lette å børste vekk.

De har nesten vedlikeholdsfri pels - «teflonpels». Tørker fort av seg selv, og den er like hvit og fin bare den har tørket etter at dere har vært ute i søla. 

Dette kullet er avlet i en familiehundslinje (det finnes også jakthundslinjer).

Både mor og far er premierte på utstilling.

Begge foreldrene er testet for patellaluksasjon - de er helt friske og fine begge to.

Når du henter valpen din har den fått 3 ormekurer, den er vaksinert 2 ganger, den har fått helseattest og chip. Den er registrert i Norsk Kennel Klubb.
Og du får med en valpepakke.

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