Oreo Teams

Rosenborg

## Quick Facts

The Irish Setter is a medium-sized, energetic pointing dog from Ireland with a strong hunting drive and a breed ideal that emphasises an affectionate nature. On Get a Pet, the breed is called **Irish Setter**. In the Swedish Kennel Club's breed standard, it is called the **Irish Red Setter**; this is the solid-red breed, not the Irish Red and White Setter, which is a separate breed.

- **Breed group:** Group 7, pointing dogs
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Original purpose:** To search for gamebirds, point them, flush the bird on command and retrieve after the shot
- **Height at the withers:** 58–67 cm for males and 55–62 cm for females
- **Weight:** Not specified in the breed standard
- **Activity level:** High; the breed needs both physical activity and tasks that engage its nose and ability to work with a handler every day
- **Best suited to:** An active home that wants to train regularly and can manage hunting drive, recall and a substantial need for movement

This is not primarily a companion dog with a fixed exercise schedule. The breed was developed to work across large areas, and that background is evident in its speed, stamina, independence and interest in bird scent.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Setter should be athletic, balanced and built for fast, sustained movement—not heavy or excessively coated. According to the standard, males should stand 58–67 cm at the withers and females 55–62 cm. The standard does not specify a weight, so an appropriate body condition must be assessed on the individual dog.

The colour is a rich chestnut red with no black. Small white markings may be permitted under the standard, but an Irish Setter should not be confused with the separately recognised Irish Red and White Setter.

The coat is short and fine on the head, the fronts of the legs and the tips of the ears. On the rest of the body, it is moderately long and should lie as flat and free from curl or wave as possible. There is longer, silky feathering on the ears and legs, among other areas. The coat should enhance a functional dog, not obscure the body's outline or impede movement.

Coat care should be based on the dog's actual needs, not a fixed weekly schedule. Check the feathering, the coat around the ears and neck, and the hair around the feet after outings in rough ground. Gently work out developing tangles before they tighten, and remove seeds, twigs and dirt. This is not a traditionally clipped breed, but stray or tangle-prone hair around the ears, neck and feet can be tidied carefully. Excessive shaping does not belong to the breed's functional appearance.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Setter's breed ideal is intense, intelligent, energetic, affectionate and loyal, but friendliness does not automatically make the breed easy. Its strong hunting drive and ability to work at a distance mean that a young or untrained dog can be fast, easily distracted and difficult to reach when the surroundings become more interesting than the handler.

When its needs are met, the breed can be calm and pleasant indoors and highly intense outside. This is a useful description of the breed's two modes, but it is not a guarantee for every individual. Inheritance, upbringing, recovery, training and the everyday environment all influence how a dog behaves at home.

An Irish Setter can suit a committed first-time owner, but not someone looking for a dog that is satisfied with ordinary lead walks and a little weekend activity. The owner needs to enjoy training even when progress comes gradually and be able to prevent hunting drive from becoming a safety problem.

Labels such as “hunting line” and “show line” are not enough to predict everyday behaviour. Instead, ask how the parents and adult close relatives behave at home, how they work outside, how readily they settle and what hunting or other working achievements they actually have. Variation can occur both between and within litters.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Setter needs substantial daily activity, but no single number of hours is right for every adult dog. Age, health, fitness, the individual and the content of the activity determine the load. A slow walk and a search exercise in open ground may take the same amount of time while placing very different demands on the dog.

The breed's original way of working explains what often motivates it: the dog searches quickly and systematically for gamebirds, points when it locates the game, flushes on the handler's command and retrieves after the shot. A companion dog does not need to take part in practical hunting, but everyday life should provide outlets for the same core traits through activities such as movement over varied terrain, scent work, search exercises, retrieving and tasks that require contact with the handler.

Build recall early in a quiet environment and increase distractions gradually. With this breed's hunting drive, a securely enclosed area or a long line is a safer intermediate step than taking a chance off lead. A long line should be attached to a harness and used well away from traffic. Off-lead freedom should come only when the dog can disengage and return even when scent, birds or movement compete for its attention.

For a puppy, short walks, play, environmental learning and simple cooperative exercises are better building blocks than an adult dog's workload. Increase the load gradually and allow plenty of sleep and recovery. The often-repeated “five-minute rule”—five minutes of exercise per month of age—has no scientific support as a universal model and should not replace an assessment of the puppy's size, development and response to the activity.

## Health

For the Irish Setter, it is important to distinguish between conditions that may occur, formal Swedish breeding requirements and test results that are centrally recorded and displayed. A long list of diagnoses tells a puppy buyer less than documented results for the parents and an open account of health among close relatives.

- **Hip dysplasia (HD):** Parent dogs must have an official hip status before mating for the offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The breed also has an HD index. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that the parents' average index be above 100 at the time of mating, and the breed-specific rule states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.
- **CLAD:** Canine leukocyte adhesion deficiency is a serious defect of the white blood cells and is inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. The previous requirement for a DNA test or hereditarily clear status for litter registration was removed in 2014, but results can still be recorded centrally. The breed club continues to recommend testing foreign and imported breeding dogs whose status is unknown.
- **rcd4-PRA:** This is a specific, recessively inherited form of the retinal disease PRA. Following a decision in 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club records and publishes DNA results for Irish Setters in Hunddata and Avelsdata. The test shows the dog's status for the specific rcd4 mutation; it does not rule out other forms of PRA.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' registered hip results and explain the mating's HD index. Also request documented CLAD and rcd4 status and an explanation of how the results informed the mating. Check the information in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata rather than relying on verbal assurances. In addition, ask about recurring disease, mobility problems, eye problems and longevity in parents, siblings and older close relatives. This gives a more relevant picture than assuming that every individual will develop everything ever reported in the breed.

## History & Origins

The Irish Red Setter was developed in Ireland as a working hunting dog, and the modern breed's history is closely tied to gamebird hunting. According to the breed standard, it descends from the Irish Red and White Setter combined with an unknown solid-red dog. A recognisable type existed in Ireland during the 1700s.

The Irish Red Setter Club was founded in 1882 and published a breed standard in 1886. This helped define the identity and characteristics of the solid-red breed. The first imported dogs arrived in Sweden in the 1890s, and the Swedish Irish Setter Club was founded in 1910.

At the core of the breed standard is a functional dog with speed, strength, stamina and a friendly expression. The history is therefore more than background: it explains why hunting drive, a need for movement and work with a handler remain central to life with the breed today.

## Living with the Breed

The Irish Setter is best suited to an active home that can provide daily movement, training and recovery, whether the home is a house or a flat. A garden does not replace activity, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. In a flat, quick access to suitable exercise areas, practical daily routines, noise levels and the dog's ability to settle become particularly important.

The breed can become a warm and close family member, but “good with children” should not be taken to mean risk-free. A large, fast and playful dog can knock over a small child without meaning to. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Adults must remain responsible for walks, exercise and training.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and how introductions are managed. Early exposure is no guarantee, especially with a dog bred to react to bird scent and movement. When introducing a cat, the animals should first have separate safe areas, the cat should have clear escape routes, and early meetings should be calm and use a barrier or lead. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is well understood.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in how easily they learn. Start with very short, uneventful periods when the dog feels secure and increase the duration only when it can relax. A home in which the dog will regularly be left alone for a full working day without help is a poor match.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Does daily life have room for meaningful activity even on dark, rainy working days? Can you train recall and manage the dog safely before it is reliable off lead? Can the breeder show health records and describe the parents as individuals, rather than only by a line label? If any answer is no, it is sensible to choose a less demanding breed or wait.

Irish Setter

The Irish Setter Club of Germany

The Irish Setter Breeders Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Kennel Club (UK)

Graceful Irish gundog with a mahogany red, feathered coat needing regular grooming. Medium‑large, athletic and high‑energy, it thrives on daily vigorous exercise and mental work. Affectionate, people‑oriented and playful, it’s good with families but needs consistent, positive training.

Liten uppfödning i hemmiljö av Irländsk setter.
Har haft setter sedan 1983, en ras som alltid är glad och vill alltid vara med på dina upptåg. 
En familjemedlem som förgyller din dag och gör livet lite roligare.
En ras som passar alla. 
Aveln baseras på sunda o friska föräldrar med bästa tänkbara temperament och bonus på det är att de är väldigt vackra också.

Red N’ Happy

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

LyckansGård

Stigsbergets kennel

Smedstorps Perro

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Ekelunds Noble

## Quick Facts

The Coton de Tulear is a small, recognised companion breed from Madagascar. It is best suited to someone who wants a sociable, active dog at the heart of family life and is also prepared for substantial coat care. Its small size does not make ownership effortless: the coat needs daily attention, and the dog still needs exercise, training and a gradual introduction to being left alone.

- **Breed type:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Origin:** Madagascar, with France responsible for the breed standard
- **Height at the withers:** 26–28 cm for males and 23–25 cm for females
- **Weight:** 4–6 kg for males and 3.5–5 kg for females
- **Coat:** long, dense, soft and cotton-like, with white as the ground colour
- **Breed ideal:** cheerful, steady, sociable and willing to cooperate
- **Biggest daily commitment:** grooming the coat thoroughly every day

A Coton de Tulear can be a good choice for a first-time owner, but only if there is already time in the daily routine for grooming, training and company. Those practical demands matter more than the assumption that a small companion dog will automatically be easy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Coton de Tulear's defining feature is its soft, profuse coat with a cotton-like texture. It must not be harsh or rough and may be slightly wavy. The body is somewhat longer than it is tall, while dark, rounded eyes help to create the breed's lively expression.

White is the ground colour. Slight traces of light grey or red roan are permitted on the ears. Similar shading may be tolerated elsewhere if the overall impression remains white, although it is not sought after in the breed standard. A puppy's coloured markings may change as the coat develops, but the standard provides neither a timetable nor a guarantee for the colour of an individual adult dog.

A long coat needs brushing and combing every day. Work through the full depth of the coat from the skin outwards; quickly brushing the surface can leave mats underneath. The Swedish Kennel Club describes bathing every two to four weeks as typical, although the actual need depends on coat length, weather and how dirty the dog becomes. Calm grooming practice should begin in puppyhood so that the dog learns to stand and be handled without distress.

A companion dog that will not be shown in a full show coat may be kept in a shorter trim to make everyday care more manageable. A shorter style does not remove the need for regular combing and skin checks, but it can reduce the workload. Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat care before you buy, and consider how you will manage it through wet and muddy weather as well as on dry days.

The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic. The amount of visible hair a dog leaves behind does not reveal how much allergen it spreads, and there can be considerable variation between individual dogs. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not treat the breed name or the fact that a dog appears to shed very little as a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Coton de Tulear as cheerful, steady and highly sociable with people and other dogs. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes it as active and cooperative, and keen to join its owner in different activities. This is the breed ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy shows why that distinction matters. Older survey responses mentioned barking, aggression towards other dogs and fear of gunfire, but later material could not establish clearly how common these behaviours were. The evidence was limited by a low response rate and a small number of behaviour assessments. It would therefore be misleading to promise that the breed is invariably quiet, fearless or straightforward.

Instead, ask how the puppy's parents respond to unfamiliar people, encounters with other dogs, unexpected sounds and short periods without their owner. If possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary home setting. The parents' behaviour, the puppy's early experiences and your continuing training tell you more about that particular dog than labels such as “perfect family dog”.

## Training & Exercise

A Coton de Tulear needs daily walks, opportunities to move freely in safe places and activities that engage its mind. There is no official daily time target that suits every dog. Adjust duration and pace to the individual's age, health, fitness and recovery instead.

The breed may enjoy everyday obedience, scent work, tracking, rally obedience and agility. Short training sessions can form part of a walk: attention, recall, self-control and settling calmly are more useful than simply raising the intensity. Vary the surroundings and tasks, but also provide undisturbed rest.

Give three skills particular attention from the start: accepting thorough coat care, remaining calm when there is activity outside the front door and spending short periods alone without becoming distressed. Build up time alone gradually from very brief, secure experiences. Increase it only while the dog remains relaxed; a fixed timetable will not suit every puppy.

## Health

The clearest documented health concerns for the Coton de Tulear in Sweden are the eye disease PRA and patellar luxation. PRA is a group of inherited diseases in which the retina gradually deteriorates and sight may eventually be lost. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; some dogs show no signs, while others experience lameness or pain.

The breed's Swedish breeding strategy provides an important but limited figure for patellar luxation. Of 156 recorded patella examinations between 2014 and 2021, 16.7 per cent showed some degree of luxation. However, only 21.8 per cent of the dogs registered during that period had been examined. The figure describes the examined sample and must not be treated as a reliable prevalence estimate for the whole breed.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination and that the certificate be no more than 18 months old at the time of mating. It also recommends another eye examination at about seven years of age, as well as a patella examination before mating, carried out no earlier than twelve months of age. These are breeding recommendations, so do not assume that every litter automatically meets them.

Ask to see the official results for both parents and check the examination dates. Also ask about eye, knee and behavioural problems among close relatives, not just the two parents. A test result reduces uncertainty about one particular issue but cannot guarantee a completely healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The reliably documented history is shorter than many of the colourful stories told about the breed. The Coton de Tulear comes from Madagascar, and “coton” in its name refers to the cotton-like coat. The breed was introduced to France before official recognition and was definitively recognised by the FCI in 1970. France is responsible for the standard, while Madagascar remains the stated country of origin.

The first Coton de Tulear registered in Sweden was imported from the Netherlands in 1991. Since then, the breed has become established there as a companion dog and also takes part in several dog sports.

Stories involving shipwrecks, pirates, royal status and laws barring ordinary people from owning the breed appear frequently online. The official breed documents do not provide enough evidence to present them as established history. They are better regarded as breed legends, not as an explanation of present-day dogs.

## Living with the Breed

A Coton de Tulear can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives daily activity, company and undisturbed rest. The size of the home matters less than the shape of the daily routine. Sounds in a communal hallway may nevertheless make training the dog to settle especially useful if it tends to bark in response.

The same safety principles apply with children as with any dog: an adult should be present whenever young children and the dog are together, and the dog needs a private resting place. Because this is a small breed, children must learn not to carry, crowd or handle the dog roughly.

The breed ideal is sociable with other dogs, but good relationships still depend on controlled introductions and positive experiences. There is not enough evidence to promise that every Coton de Tulear will live well with cats or other small animals. Introduce animals calmly, prevent chasing and make sure that each has somewhere to retreat.

Plan for time alone before the puppy comes home. Dogs need a gradual introduction to being left, and Swedish animal welfare guidance says that they should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent trips outside. A full working day with no arranged break, exercise or social contact is therefore not a sustainable solution.

Before buying, focus on concrete questions. Can you care for the coat every day? Can the breeder show you current eye and patella results? How do the parents cope with noise, encounters with dogs and being left? What experience have the puppies had of handling and normal daily environments? Clear answers to these questions give a better indication of a good match than promises that the breed suits everyone.

Coton de Tulear

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Small, sturdy companion from Madagascar, the Coton de Tulear has a long, white, cotton‑soft coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, sensitive and very people focused, it bonds closely, suits apartments, needs moderate exercise and kind training, and is generally long lived but prone to some joint, eye and skin issues.

Kennel Showsilk

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

A small breeder of Poodles in the South of Sweden. Living on a farm together with our dogs.

Vindgårdens kennel

## Quick Facts

The American Cocker Spaniel is a compact American bird dog and companion with considerable working drive behind its elegant appearance. It is a distinct breed, not a smaller version of the English Cocker Spaniel. The breeds share an origin but have different standards and breeding histories. Even so, you cannot assume that every American Cocker is calmer or has less hunting drive than every English Cocker.

- **Origin:** United States.
- **Classification:** FCI number 167 in Group 8, Retrievers, Flushing Dogs and Water Dogs.
- **Original function:** flushing and retrieving bird dog; the breed standard also lists companion dog.
- **Ideal height at the withers:** about 38 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight.
- **Temperament ideal:** even, confident and cheerful, without shyness.
- **Activity:** needs substantial daily exercise and tasks that engage its nose and cooperation with the handler.
- **Coat care:** demanding, especially when the coat is kept long. A shorter sport trim makes daily care easier but does not remove the need to check the ears, feet and skin.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine companionship with training and accepts regular coat and ear care. It can suit a first-time owner who seeks help when needed, but it is not automatically an easy choice simply because it is relatively small.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Cocker Spaniel should be a strong, balanced and mobile dog in a compact format. The body is slightly longer than tall but should look neither long nor low. The clearly defined head should be in proportion to the body. The eyes should be dark and must not protrude; the expression should be alert and gentle. Movement should be free and efficient, without the abundant coat obscuring the dog's outline.

The standard divides the colours into black, solid colours other than black, and parti-colours. The body coat is medium in length with a protective undercoat. The ears, chest, abdomen and legs carry more feathering. Correct coat is silky and straight or slightly wavy. Excessive coat, a cottony texture or curl is not the goal: the American Cocker Spaniel should still function as a sporting dog.

How often the coat needs combing and clipping depends on its amount, length and texture, as well as the dog's activity and the weather. Part the coat down to the skin and check that a comb passes through without resistance. Tangles readily form around the ears, armpits, groin and feet and under a harness or collar. After walks in woodland, rain or swimming, the coat needs an extra check and thorough drying.

A full show coat requires considerably more work than a shorter sport trim. Ask the breeder to demonstrate the care routine before the puppy comes home. Gradually accustom the puppy to a comb, dryer, clippers, foot handling and standing still for short periods. Grooming then becomes an everyday skill rather than a struggle after the coat has already matted.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an even, bold and cheerful dog that enjoys working with its person. Many American Cockers seek contact, are playful and learn quickly, but the standard describes a breeding goal—it does not promise the temperament of an individual dog. Genetics, early experiences, health, upbringing and training all have an influence.

The Swedish BPH data are too limited to provide a reliable picture of temperament across the breed: the current breeding strategy reports only 25 assessed dogs in 2015–2023. It is therefore more useful to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other close relatives. Watch how the dogs seek contact, accept handling, respond to something unexpected and settle again. Ask how relatives cope with the kind of daily life you are planning.

Hunting traits vary but can remain. The breed is still described as a flushing and retrieving bird dog, although hunting use is uncommon in Sweden. An American Cocker may therefore suddenly become very interested in a scent or bird. Recall and outdoor engagement need to be trained rather than assumed.

## Training & Exercise

The American Cocker Spaniel needs daily activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, environment and the day's other demands determine what is appropriate. A good routine combines walks and free movement in safe places with scent work, retrieving, cooperation and the ability to settle afterwards.

The breed's background offers several natural training routes. Search exercises, tracking human scent, blood tracking, controlled retrieving and tasks in which the dog works close to the handler engage both its nose and its willingness to cooperate. Rally obedience, obedience, agility and freestyle may also suit the individual. Start simply and increase difficulty, duration and physical load only when the dog is recovering well.

Prioritise recall, engagement, calm behaviour around encounters and the ability to leave a scent trail from an early age. Also train everyday skills: examination around the eyes and ears, foot handling, standing on a grooming table and resting despite movement nearby. Short, clear sessions and rewards the dog values help maintain motivation.

More activity is not always the answer to restlessness. A dog that struggles to settle may need clearer recovery time, better-adjusted training or a health check. For a puppy, new environments, body awareness and short tasks should take priority over long, repetitive exercise sessions.

## Health

The ears are the most important health area to plan for, and eye examination is the clear Swedish breeding requirement. The Swedish breeding strategy identifies ear inflammation as the breed's most common health problem. Drop ears, abundant ear hair and a rich coat make it particularly important to be able to see the skin, keep the hair around the ear opening manageable and spot problems early.

Odour, redness, swelling, discharge, tenderness or head shaking are reasons to contact a veterinarian. Recurrent problems should be investigated because there may be an underlying cause. Healthy ears do not, however, need cleaning according to a frequent standard schedule. Nor does the breeding strategy support the claim that American Cockers are generally born with narrow ear canals.

Hereditary eye conditions including cataracts and retinal folds occur, and PRA has been identified in isolated cases. For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official eye-examination result. The certificate may be no more than one year old, and the result must be valid before mating. The rule requires a current result; it does not mean that every diagnosis must be marked clear. Check the parents' results and dates in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata database, and ask the breeder to explain how any findings were assessed for the proposed mating.

A DNA test for prcd-PRA is neither a guarantee against all PRA nor a replacement for an eye examination. In 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club's breeding committee rejected an application for a central level 1 prcd-PRA health programme for the American Cocker Spaniel because it had not been established that confirmed PRA cases in the breed were caused by that particular mutation. Do not confuse the breed's Swedish requirements with testing packages for the English Cocker Spaniel: FN, hip dysplasia screening and patella examination are not formal registration requirements for the American Cocker Spaniel under the current rules.

The Swedish Kennel Club's special judging instructions highlight head shape, eyes and excessive coat. When choosing a puppy, sound proportions, eyes that neither protrude nor water constantly, a correct bite, free movement and a coat that does not hinder the dog matter more than an extreme look. Healthy parents reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The American and English Cocker Spaniels share roots, but the American type developed in the United States and became a distinct breed. Obo II, born in 1882, is commonly identified as an important early dog in its American history. Differences in type became clearer during the first half of the 1900s.

In 1945, the American Kennel Club divided the Cocker Spaniel into American and English Cocker Spaniels. The first American Cockers arrived in Sweden in the 1950s. The FCI lists the United States as the country of origin and places the breed among retrievers, flushing dogs and water dogs. Today's breed is often oriented towards companionship and showing, but the bird-dog function in the standard explains why scent work, searching and retrieving remain relevant activities.

## Living with the Breed

The American Cocker Spaniel can live well in a house or flat when activity, access outdoors, coat care and recovery are properly arranged. In a building where sound carries, training for calm behaviour around noises and a plan for the dog's days are needed; the breed name does not tell you whether an individual will bark a lot or a little.

The breed can live happily with children, dogs and other animals, but the breed alone provides no guarantee. A dog and small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Introductions to other animals should be calm and controlled. Consider the individual's previous experience, resource guarding, play style and interest in chasing, not just a general breed description.

Alone time is taught gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Some individuals learn quickly; others need a slower plan. The breed should therefore be described neither as unable to stay alone nor as trouble-free without training.

The following checks are particularly useful before buying a puppy:

- View both parents' official eye results and dates in Avelsdata; check that each result was no more than one year old at mating.
- Ask about recurrent ear, eye and skin problems in the parents and close relatives, not only whether the dogs appear healthy on that particular day.
- Meet the puppy's mother and observe contact, handling, reactions to sound and recovery. Ask about other close relatives if the father is not present.
- Look for free movement, sound head proportions, eyes that do not protrude, water or squint, and a quantity of coat that can be maintained without hindering the dog.
- Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat and ear care, and judge the workload against the coat length you actually intend to keep.
- Describe the daily life and activities you are planning. A breeder who knows their lines should be able to discuss variation rather than promise that every puppy will be the same.

Rules and recommendations can change. Always check the current versions with the Swedish Kennel Club and breed club when buying rather than relying on an old checklist.

American Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

American Cocker Spaniel: a small, sturdy gundog with a silky coat and large, expressive eyes. Cheerful, affectionate, and people‑oriented, it suits active families. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, gentle positive training, and regular, thorough grooming and ear care.

Cathrine Uhrberg

## Quick Facts

- The English Toy Terrier is a small British companion dog with a distinct terrier character.
- The breed standard specifies an **ideal height of 25–30 cm** and an **ideal weight of 2.7–3.6 kg**. These figures describe the ideal, not every healthy adult dog.
- The coat is short, close, smooth and glossy. The colour is black with clearly defined tan markings.
- The breed is active, alert and often quick to raise the alarm, but sociability, tendency to bark and stress tolerance vary between individuals and bloodlines.
- The fine coat offers little protection from the cold. A well-fitting coat may be needed on cold Scandinavian days.
- Small rodents may trigger the instinct to chase. Children and larger dogs need calm supervision around the dog to reduce the risk of injury.
- Give greater weight to documented health, temperament and pedigree diversity than to a long list of unspecified genetic tests.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Toy Terrier should be elegant, compact and well balanced, with clean lines but no suggestion of frailty. The head and legs should be in proportion to the body, and movement should be free, even and precise. The thin, high-set ears have a distinctive candle-flame shape and should be fully erect from nine months of age.

The breed standard expressly describes 25–30 cm and 2.7–3.6 kg as ideal measurements. They are neither a general normal range nor the only measure of a sound dog. Also consider body condition, balance, movement and how the dog functions in everyday life. A dog outside the ideal weight is not automatically overweight or underweight.

The only accepted colour is black with tan markings on defined parts of the head, chest, legs and underside. Black and tan should be clearly separated. The coat should be short, close, smooth and glossy. It usually needs little work: wipe away dirt and use a soft brush or cloth when required. At the same time, check the skin, paws, nails, ears, eyes and mouth.

The short coat has no warm undercoat. Adjust time outdoors to the weather, the level of activity and the individual dog. A coat can be sensible in cold weather, but the dog still needs exercise and daily time outside. Rinse and dry the paws after contact with road salt, and introduce calm nail care and tooth brushing from an early age.

## Temperament & Personality

The English Toy Terrier is normally an alert and active companion, but breed descriptions cannot replace an assessment of the individual dog. The standard calls for an alert temperament without undue nervousness. Swedish breed documents describe many dogs as curious, affectionate and keen to be involved, but they also report considerable variation in owners' experiences.

The breed can be reserved with strangers, and some individuals are quick to bark when someone comes to the door. This does not mean that every English Toy Terrier is aloof or noisy. A prospective owner should meet the dam and, where possible, the sire or other adult relatives. Watch how they respond to unfamiliar people, sounds and gentle handling, and how quickly they recover after something unexpected.

The Swedish BPH behavioural assessment data do not provide a reliable profile of the breed. The 2022 breed-specific breeding strategy included only 21 BPH starts, and the published breed average was based on just 11 Swedish-born dogs. Results for this small group indicated uncertainty and lower confidence around unfamiliar people, but the sample is too small to describe all dogs. Ask about temperament across several generations and avoid clearly timid, nervous or easily stressed parents.

The breed's history as a rat catcher appears in some dogs as an interest in small, fast-moving animals. Mice, hamsters and guinea pigs should therefore be kept securely apart. Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction; the breed name is no guarantee. Play with much larger dogs needs to be controlled, as a small, fine-boned dog can be injured even when both dogs are friendly.

## Training & Exercise

The English Toy Terrier needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, weather, pace and what the dog is actually doing matter more than a generic time target. Combine daily walks and longer outings with scent work, play, simple searches, tricks and quiet downtime. An adult can often manage more activity than its size suggests, while a puppy needs shorter sessions, free movement and plenty of rest.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's quick and attentive nature. Keep sessions short and clear. Give particular attention to engagement, recall, walking on a loose lead and turning away from moving distractions. Use an enclosed area or a long line until recall works even when the surroundings are tempting.

To prevent persistent barking at the door, teach the dog to go to a designated place away from the hall. Reward it for settling there, and ask visitors to wait before interacting until the dog is calm. The aim is not total silence, but a clear alternative to continued alarm barking.

Gently accustom the puppy from an early age to having its teeth and ears examined, its legs and paws touched and its body lifted safely. Training should be voluntary, positive and broken into small steps. This makes routine care, veterinary visits and being examined on a table at dog shows easier.

## Health

For the English Toy Terrier, it is important to distinguish between recommended health checks, tests that are relevant only to certain pedigrees and binding registration requirements. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends eye testing and checks of the patellae and heart. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, however, specify no mandatory breed-specific health test for the English Toy Terrier. A check can still be valuable even when it is not compulsory.

The Swedish health evidence is limited. The breeding strategy reports heart murmurs in a small survey and only modest numbers of dogs examined for eye and patellar conditions. These figures justify questions and checks, but they cannot establish how common a condition is across the breed. Ask to see dated results for both parents and enquire about diagnoses in siblings, parents and previous offspring.

The Swedish breeding strategy mentions three DNA tests for breeding dogs with American or Canadian dogs in their pedigrees: juvenile dilated cardiomyopathy (JDCM), xanthinuria and von Willebrand disease type 1. The current British health standard recommends JDCM, xanthinuria type II and eye testing for the breed, but does not list vWD1. This is a good reason to check the pedigree and the relevant national guidance before ordering a broad test panel without a clear purpose.

JDCM is a serious heart condition that can appear early in life. Xanthinuria type II can cause xanthine crystals in the urinary tract and kidney damage. Both are described as autosomal recessive: a dog with one altered copy is a carrier and is not expected to develop the condition, while two altered copies mean the dog is at risk of disease. A carrier need not automatically be excluded from breeding; the mating must be planned so that puppies do not inherit two altered copies, while genetic diversity is protected.

Before buying a puppy, ask for clear answers to the following questions:

- Which eye, patellar and heart checks have been carried out, when were they done and what were the results?
- Are there American or Canadian dogs in the pedigree, and which DNA tests are therefore relevant?
- What is known about the health and temperament of close relatives, not only the parents?
- How does the breeder avoid close matings and the overuse of individual breeding dogs?

## History & Origins

The English Toy Terrier is a British toy breed descended from the Black and Tan Terrier. During nineteenth-century urbanisation, small terriers were used to control rats, and bloody rat-killing contests also took place in public houses. This history helps to explain the breed's terrier character, but should not be romanticised.

In Britain, the breed was known by several names, including Miniature Black and Tan Terrier and Black and Tan Toy Terrier. The Kennel Club changed the name to English Toy Terrier (Black and Tan) in 1960. The first documented import to Sweden arrived from the United States in 1958.

North American Toy Manchester Terriers have since been used to broaden the small gene pool and may appear in Swedish and other Nordic pedigrees. That does not make the two breed standards identical. The Swedish breeding strategy notes differences including head shape and topline. For a prospective owner, the pedigree helps explain both the dog's background and which DNA tests may be relevant.

## Living with the Breed

The English Toy Terrier can do well in a flat if it gets outdoors, uses both body and mind, and learns to settle despite sounds in the building. The size of the home is no substitute for walks, and a garden does not replace daily activity either. If sound travels easily, begin early with calm behaviour around the door, lift and communal hallway.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can cope with. Start with very short periods when the dog is secure and settled, increase the time slowly and take a step back if it shows distress. Arrange help during working days rather than assuming that a small dog can be left for long periods.

The breed can live with children, but an adult should always be present with young children. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children should not lift, carry or chase it. The same caution applies to boisterous play with larger dogs. The English Toy Terrier is fine-boned but not an ornament: it needs safe physical activity while the family prevents falls, crushing injuries and rough handling.

The breed is best suited to someone who values a small but active dog, can provide daily company and training, and is prepared to judge the individual rather than rely on stereotypes. A sound decision is based on meeting adult relatives, checking health records and having a routine that still works in cold weather or when the dog cannot come along.

English Toy Terrier

English Toy Terrier Club (UK)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Small, elegant black-and-tan toy terrier with a fine but athletic build and low‑maintenance short coat. Loyal and people-focused, often bonding closely with one person. Lively, intelligent and sensitive, needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and protection from temperature extremes.

I breed English Toy Terriers as a way to honor Mickey, my beloved dog who was taken from me far too suddenly at the age of eight. Through this work, I carry his memory forward, focusing on the same spirit, loyalty, and joy he brought into my life. Each dog represents a small piece of him, and this journey is both a tribute and a way to keep his legacy alive.

Carina B. Helgesen

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Sorma Gards

Vi holder til i kanten av Haugesund  ved Viksefjorden.

Dronning Sjøkanten

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a distinct British breed, not a red-and-white variety of the English Springer Spaniel. Developed to flush and retrieve game, it is best suited to someone who wants to combine close family life with regular training and outdoor activity.

- The breed is medium-sized and compact; the approximate height at the withers is 48 cm for dogs and 46 cm for bitches.
- The breed standard permits only rich red and white. The coat should be straight or flat, silky and dense, with moderate feathering.
- A typical Welsh Springer Spaniel is friendly, cheerful, keen to work and active, although temperament varies between individuals.
- This breed needs more than walks around the block. Scent work, cooperation and opportunities to move through varied terrain are important parts of daily life.
- In Sweden, both parents must have an official hip-dysplasia result before mating for their puppies to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. A recorded result does not automatically mean clear hips.
- Life with children, other dogs and cats can work well, but the breed name is no guarantee. The individual dog, its upbringing, introductions and adult supervision all matter.

Above all, this is a breed for someone who enjoys doing things with their dog. A Welsh Springer must also learn to rest, wait and cope calmly with short periods alone; constant activity without the ability to settle does not create a balanced life.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a strong, symmetrical and agile spaniel built for sustained work. Its body is compact without being heavy, and its movement should be powerful and ground-covering. Males stand at about 48 cm at the withers and females at about 46 cm, but sound construction and overall function matter more than an individual dog matching the figure to the nearest centimetre.

The colour distinguishes the breed clearly from other spaniels: the standard allows only rich red and white. The coat should lie straight or flat against the body and be silky and dense. There is feathering on the legs, ears and tail, but it should be moderate. A very profuse, curly or easily matted coat is not the functional coat described by the standard.

Coat care is manageable at home, but it needs to become routine. Pay particular attention to:

- ears and feathering after woodland walks, swimming and outings in long grass
- armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where tangles can start
- paws and the hair between the pads, especially during wet or snowy periods
- skin and ears if the dog starts scratching, shaking its head or smelling unusual

Brush when the coat begins to hold loose hair or form tangles, and remove debris before it becomes embedded. Dry the ears and coat after swimming, but do not clean a healthy ear canal routinely when there is no need. The Swedish Kennel Club gives three to four trims a year as a broad guide, while the breed club stresses that the need varies between dogs. Let coat growth, grip under the paws and airflow around the ears determine the timing. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed calendar.

## Temperament & Personality

A Welsh Springer Spaniel should be friendly, cheerful and very active without being aggressive or nervous. As a working spaniel, it is expected to cooperate, remain in contact and switch between activity and calm. This can make the breed rewarding to train, but it does not make every Welsh Springer easy in every home.

Many Welsh Springers want to stay close to their people and take part in daily life. Some greet strangers readily, while others need time before seeking contact. Excessive fear, constant stress or an inability to settle should not be dismissed as typical of the breed. The breed club also notes that relatively few dogs have undergone formal behavioural assessments, so sweeping claims about the temperament of the entire breed would be misleading.

When meeting a breeder, look beyond the phrase ‘friendly family dog’. Ask to meet the dam in an ordinary setting, and ask how the parents, siblings and previous offspring respond to unfamiliar places, people, sounds, rest and time alone. A dog that recovers promptly after something unexpected and can settle again provides more useful information about daily life than titles or an enthusiastic first greeting alone.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. A young, enthusiastic Welsh Springer may greet people physically and carry objects in its mouth despite friendly intentions. Children should not disturb the dog while it is eating, sleeping or choosing to move away.

## Training & Exercise

A Welsh Springer Spaniel needs physical exercise, scent work and cooperation every day, but there is no authoritative number of hours that suits every dog. A sound plan gives the dog enough to do without leaving it over-aroused, sore or unable to recover.

The breed's original work explains its training needs. A spaniel searches the ground in front of the handler, flushes game to create a shooting opportunity and then retrieves. In everyday life, the same traits appear as interest in scent, movement and objects. Priorities should therefore include:

- recall and voluntary check-ins, beginning in easy surroundings and progressing to greater distractions
- a long line wherever the dog cannot yet be allowed off lead safely
- steadiness: waiting calmly when something moves or other dogs are working
- carrying objects and giving them up without conflict
- a clear cue for a break and a quiet place where the dog can settle

Vary walks with search games, tracking, retrieving or another task that uses both scent and cooperation. Agility, rally and obedience may also suit the individual. The aim is not to collect activities, but to find a mix in which the dog can work with concentration and then rest.

Puppies and adolescents need short sessions, free movement on suitable ground and a gradual increase in load. Do not try to tire them out with long, repetitive distances or frequent jumping. For an adult, adjust the amount to fitness, health, temperature and the previous day's activity. Stiffness, unusually slow recovery, restlessness after exercise or poorer sleep are signs that the routine needs changing.

## Health

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is regarded as a comparatively healthy breed, but a prospective owner should pay particular attention to hips and eyes and ask about skin and ear problems in close relatives. Health screening reduces uncertainty; it cannot guarantee that an individual dog will remain healthy.

In Sweden, the breed is covered by level 2 of the Swedish Kennel Club's hip-dysplasia programme. Both parents must have an official hip result before mating for the puppies to be eligible for registration. Ask to see the actual results and also enquire about siblings and previous offspring. ‘Hip scored’ says only that the examination was completed, not what result the dog received.

Eye health must be kept separate from the Swedish hip rule. Swedish registration rules do not require an eye result for this breed, but the Welsh Springer Spaniel breed club encourages gonioscopy for breeding dogs. The examination assesses the drainage angle of the eye and is used in work to reduce glaucoma, a serious eye disease that the breed club monitors particularly closely. Ask about current eye examination and gonioscopy results, findings in close relatives and how the breeder weighed those results when planning the mating.

The breed club's health survey also identifies ears, itching, skin and eyes as areas to watch. This does not mean that every Welsh Springer will be affected. Check the dog after swimming and outings in wet or dense cover, and seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, redness, unpleasant smell, head shaking, pain or changes in vision.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Springer Spaniel developed from red-and-white spaniels in Wales and was recognised as a distinct breed in Britain in 1902. Written references to red-and-white spaniels in Wales date back to the fourteenth century, but older origin stories should not be made more precise than the evidence allows.

The dogs were used chiefly for hunting. The word ‘springer’ refers to flushing game from cover, not to the breed being a variety of the English Springer Spaniel. The modern breed's work includes searching, flushing and retrieving in close cooperation with the handler.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1963, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1965. The Swedish Welsh Springer Spaniel Club was founded in 1980. Today the breed is used for hunting and tracking wounded game as well as being an active companion and sporting dog, but its working purpose remains the key to understanding its needs and behaviour.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Springer Spaniel can live in a house or flat if daily life provides enough activity, recovery time and access to good walking areas. A large garden does not replace shared training, and a flat is not a problem in itself. You do, however, need to plan for a wet coat, grit, seeds and muddy paws after an active life outdoors.

Teach the dog to be alone gradually, beginning with very short periods when it feels secure and has settled. A young puppy should not be left alone, and even a well-trained adult normally copes with only a few hours alone in a day. Swedish guidance that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day describes a toileting and exercise interval, not a target for time alone. Arrange help if workdays or travel keep you away longer than the dog can manage calmly.

The breed can live with other dogs, but choose companions and introductions according to the individuals involved. Greater care is needed with cats and small animals because a flushing dog may react to sudden movement. Early familiarisation can help, but do not base safety on the assumption that this is a ‘nice breed’. Use gates, separate resting areas and supervised meetings until you know how the animals behave together.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to obtain clear answers to these questions:

- What are the hip results of both parents and their close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations and gonioscopy, and what findings occur in the family?
- How do they cope with new places, people, rest and short periods alone?
- What hunting drive, responsiveness and ability to settle have previous offspring shown?
- What coat care and activities are part of the breeder's own dogs' daily lives?

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is best suited to someone who wants an active working partner rather than a dog content to tag along passively. If you can provide scent work, clear training, calm recovery and plenty of shared time, the breed's willingness to work can find a constructive place in family life.

Welsh Springer Spaniel

The Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of UK

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Medium, athletic red-and-white spaniel from Wales, bred as a steady gundog. Affectionate, people-focused and often strongly bonded to one person. Needs substantial daily exercise, training and mental work. Sensitive, generally healthy, with a weatherproof coat that enjoys mud and water.

## Quick Facts

- **Origin:** The Dutch Kooikerhondje comes from the Netherlands and belongs to the FCI group for retrievers, flushing dogs and water dogs.
- **Size:** The ideal height is 40 cm for males and 38 cm for females. The breed standard allows 38–42 cm for males and 35–40 cm for females, but does not specify a weight.
- **Original work:** The dog lured ducks through a Dutch decoy known as an eendenkooi. Rather than hunting the ducks, it aroused their curiosity by appearing between screens and waving its white tail.
- **Temperament:** The breed should be lively, alert, friendly and keen to work. Many are close to their family but reserved with strangers, and there is considerable variation between individuals.
- **Activity needs:** This is a small sporting dog with quick reactions. It needs varied walks, work for both nose and brain, and practice settling after activity.
- **Coat:** The medium-length coat is white with distinct orange-red patches and is shown naturally, without trimming. Black hair tips on the ears are desirable but not required.
- **Before buying a puppy:** Ask to see the parents’ actual results for patellas, eyes, von Willebrand disease, ENM and polymyositis. Ask how the breeder assessed the pairing’s temperament, health and relatedness as well.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dutch Kooikerhondje is a small, agile sporting dog with an almost square body and light movement. The ideal height is 40 cm for males and 38 cm for females, with permitted ranges of 38–42 cm and 35–40 cm respectively. The official breed standard does not specify a weight, so figures often found in breed guides are only rough references, not part of the standard. Body condition, build and muscle mass tell you more about an individual dog than a general number on the scales.

The coat is medium in length, dense, straight or slightly wavy, and has an undercoat. The base colour is white with clearly defined orange-red patches. The head has colour around the eyes and cheeks, separated by a white blaze. The ears lie close to the cheeks and are feathered; long black hair tips, known as earrings, are desirable but not essential. The well-feathered tail has a white plume.

The coat should retain its natural appearance and does not normally need shaping or all-over trimming. Check the feathering behind the ears, on the legs and beneath the tail with your fingers, a comb or a brush. Brush when you find the beginnings of a tangle, after outings that leave seeds and twigs in the coat, and more often during shedding. That is more useful than following a fixed weekly timetable because coat volume, activity and season all vary.

Bathe the dog when it is dirty and dry the ears and coat thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Use the opportunity to check the claws, paws, skin and ears. Red skin, a pronounced smell, soreness or recurring itching should be assessed by a vet.

The breed sheds and cannot be described as hypoallergenic. Allergic reactions are not caused by coat alone, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit a particular person with allergies. Anyone who is unsure should spend time with several adult dogs in their homes before deciding.

## Temperament & Personality

The Dutch Kooikerhondje is generally quick, observant and closely engaged with its surroundings. The breed standard describes a lively, agile, self-confident and persistent dog that is friendly and alert without being needlessly noisy. This is the ideal, not a promise about every individual. Swedish and Dutch breed clubs describe clear variation: some dogs readily greet new people, while others prefer to watch from a distance first.

Reserve is not the same as fear or aggression. A calm, reserved dog should be allowed to decline an introduction. Ask visitors to ignore the dog at first and let it choose whether to approach. A cornered dog may try to protect its personal space, so forced greetings rarely provide good socialisation. Aggression and excessive shyness are not part of the breed ideal.

Many Kooikerhondjes notice movement, voices and mood changes very quickly. Harsh corrections or an unpredictable routine can therefore create uncertainty. Clear routines, kind boundaries and rewards for the right behaviour offer better guidance. Socialisation means safe experiences followed by time to recover; it is not a contest to make a puppy greet as many people and dogs as possible.

Around other dogs, a Kooikerhondje may be sociable, selective or firm about its personal space. Choose steady playmates. Ask to meet the mother and find out how adult relatives respond to strangers, unexpected sounds, handling and dog encounters. BPH results can add useful descriptive information, but BPH is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot predict the puppy’s future.

## Training & Exercise

The Dutch Kooikerhondje needs both physical activity and tasks that require concentration. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, varied terrain, scent work, retrieving and sports such as agility, rally or obedience. No fixed daily duration suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the intensity of that day’s activity determine what is appropriate.

Judge the overall balance. A dog that can work with focus, settle afterwards and move freely the next day has probably had a reasonable workload. Restlessness can also result from too much intense activity or from never having learnt to relax. Stiffness, lameness or a clear change in stamina should be investigated rather than trained through.

Let the difficulty of the task and the dog’s concentration determine the length of a training session. Reward with food, play or access to a valued activity, and alternate precise work with easier chances to succeed. Recall, loose-lead walking, comfortable handling, waiting and settling in a safe resting place are particularly useful everyday skills.

A puppy needs to explore, develop coordination and take plenty of breaks. Avoid schedules that calculate walking time from age alone; surface, pace, the intensity of play and the puppy’s signs of tiredness matter just as much. Repeated sharp turns, high jumps and repetitive ball throwing can wait until the dog has developed more strength and body control.

The breed can react quickly to movement and its surroundings. Practise attention and recall on a long line before allowing greater freedom, and choose locations according to the individual dog’s level of control. Its historical work as a vermin controller makes caution around small animals sensible, but hunting interest varies and should not be assumed to be equally strong in every dog.

## Health

A puppy buyer should focus on documented results and understand what they mean for the particular pairing. Patellar and eye health, type III von Willebrand disease, hereditary necrotising myelopathy and polymyositis are important considerations in the Dutch Kooikerhondje. Hip results may also form part of the Swedish breed club’s recommendations. Having a test is not the same as receiving a favourable result, and a breed-club recommendation is not necessarily a binding registration rule.

**Patellar luxation** occurs when the kneecap can move out of its normal position. In April 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club announced that the breed’s health programme had been reduced from level 2 to central registration. Central registration means that the examination is voluntary, but the result is recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club when the examination follows its procedure. Older rules and web pages may still show the previous requirement. Ask for the current patella results of both parents and check which rules applied when the mating took place rather than accepting only that the dogs were “tested”.

**Type III von Willebrand disease, VWD**, is a serious inherited bleeding disorder that has occurred in the breed. A DNA test is available, and the Swedish Kennel Club can centrally record accepted results. Central registration does not in itself prescribe a particular mating combination. Ask to see each parent’s DNA status or a verifiable certificate showing that a dog is clear by parentage. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing cannot produce affected puppies.

**Hereditary necrotising myelopathy, ENM**, is a progressive neurological disease. In affected young dogs, the first sign may be slight incoordination of the hind legs, often between six and fifteen months of age, followed by increasing difficulty walking. A DNA test is available and the condition is managed as a simple recessive trait: a carrier is not made ill by the variant, but a puppy can inherit two risk copies if both parents pass it on. Ask for verified results for both parents and a clear explanation of the combination.

**Hereditary polymyositis** is more complicated. It can cause muscle weakness, a stiff gait and reduced stamina, difficulty eating, drinking or swallowing, or both patterns at once. Research has linked the disease to a DNA variant with low penetrance. This means the variant increases risk but does not determine whether a dog becomes ill. The result cannot be reduced to “clear, carrier or affected”, and a DNA result is not a diagnosis. The breeder should be able to explain how the parents’ results and family health influenced the choice of pairing.

Ask for eye examination results too, and enquire about diagnoses in close relatives. A responsible breeder will show original results or a verifiable registry entry, discuss both strengths and risks, and explain the pairing. Check the current Swedish Kennel Club rules and breed-club recommendations when buying, as both may change.

## History & Origins

The Dutch Kooikerhondje was developed in the Netherlands for unusual work at an eendenkooi, a duck decoy consisting of a pond, screens and narrowing catching pipes. The dog moved calmly in and out between the screens so that its white, waving tail appeared in brief flashes. Tame ducks followed because they associated the dog with food, while wild ducks were drawn along by curiosity. Once the birds had moved far enough into a pipe, the kooiker, or decoy operator, took over. The dog’s job was to lure the ducks, not to chase or retrieve them.

On the farm, the same dog could control vermin, provide companionship and raise the alarm. This work helps explain the breed’s combination of speed, independence and cooperation with its handler, but does not determine how every modern dog will behave.

Dogs resembling the modern breed appear in older Dutch art, but the documented reconstruction of today’s breed began in the 1940s. Baroness van Hardenbroek van Ammerstol searched for dogs of the old type, and a female called Tommie became an important foundation dog. The Dutch kennel club adopted an interim standard in 1966 and officially recognised the breed in 1971.

The first Dutch Kooikerhondje arrived in Sweden in 1994, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1996. The breed’s narrow foundation and international exchange of breeding dogs provide important context for current work with documented health data and genetic diversity. This makes it especially valuable for a breeder to discuss the whole pairing rather than show just one test result.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Dutch Kooikerhondje works best when activity and rest both have a clear place. A garden does not replace shared walks, new environments and training. If the dog becomes aroused by sounds in the stairwell or movement outside a window, work on distance, blocking the view, a secure resting place and rewarding calm before barking starts.

The breed can live in a flat if it receives exercise, scent work and practice settling. The size of the home matters less than noise transmission, access to outdoor space and the owner’s routine. A particularly noise-sensitive or vocal dog may struggle in a building with poor sound insulation. Ask the breeder how the parents and previous offspring cope in similar homes.

With children, adult supervision, gentle handling and a protected resting place are essential. Children should not follow the dog, disturb it while eating or sleeping, or hug it when it tries to move away. A Kooikerhondje that is comfortable with children can make a good family dog, but the breed name cannot guarantee tolerance of sudden movement and loud noise. Ask the breeder to help select a puppy for the household, taking the behaviour of adult relatives into account.

Introduce other animals just as calmly. Many Kooikerhondjes live successfully with dogs or cats when all animals have somewhere to retreat. Small pets need a physical barrier and should never be used to “test” hunting interest. Do not leave animals alone together too soon, even if their first meeting went well.

Being left alone needs to be taught gradually. Begin with very short absences and increase them only when the dog can rest without distress. A camera can reveal early signs such as pacing, panting or persistent vocalisation. There is no breed-wide number of hours, and a dog that panics should not be left longer in the hope that it will “get used to it”.

The breed does not require an experienced competition handler, but it is rarely an effortless first choice for someone who wants a dog that automatically loves everyone and follows along without thoughtful training. A first-time owner can do very well with support from a knowledgeable breeder and a reward-based instructor. The crucial question is whether you enjoy a quick, individual dog and are prepared to work with both its ability and its need for personal space.

Dutch Kooikerhondje

The Nederlandse Kooikerhondje (UK) Club

Raad van Beheer (Dutch Kennel Club)

Societé Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

FCI (Fédération Cynologique Internationale)

Medium-small Dutch gundog with orange-red and white coat, black-tipped ears and a plumed white tail. Affectionate with family, reserved with strangers, intelligent and sensitive. Needs daily exercise, training, and companionship; generally healthy with some hereditary conditions monitored.

En liten kvalitativ uppfödning av Welsh Springer Spaniel och Nederlandse Kooikerhondje i hemmiljö.

Lovely Design’s kennel

## Quick Facts

The Biewer Terrier is a very small, active companion dog with the alertness of a terrier and a long, tri-coloured coat that requires considerable care. The breed was developed in Germany from Yorkshire Terrier lines but now has its own breed standard.

- **Size:** the current Swedish breed standard specifies a height of 21–26 cm at the withers and a weight of 2.2–3.8 kg.
- **Breed status:** recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the other Nordic kennel clubs, but not by the FCI.
- **Temperament:** lively, alert, close to its family and keen to join in activities; stubbornness and some prey drive may occur.
- **Activity:** needs exercise, play and mental training every day despite its small size.
- **Coat:** long, straight and silky with no undercoat. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as non-shedding, but the coat needs frequent brushing.
- **The key everyday question:** do you have time for coat care, tooth brushing, training the dog to stay alone and an active little dog?

## Appearance & Coat

The Biewer Terrier is a small, elegant dog whose most distinctive features are its long, tri-coloured coat and the ponytail on its head. The body is slightly longer than tall, although a squarer outline is also accepted. The ears are small and erect, the eyes are dark and the expression is alert.

The current Swedish standard specifies 21–26 cm and 2.2–3.8 kg. You may also encounter 18–28 cm and 1.8–3.6 kg in another Nordic version of the standard. This does not mean that there are two size varieties. Use the current Swedish Kennel Club standard when comparing Swedish information. These measurements describe the standard, not how large every puppy will become.

The coat should be long, straight, soft and silky with no undercoat. The head is blue or black, gold or tan, and white; the body is blue or black and white, with white on areas including the chest, abdomen, legs and tip of the tail as described in the standard.

This coat suits an owner who accepts a fixed grooming routine. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends going through it at least every other day and says that bathing may be needed every one or two weeks depending on coat length and need. Ease out small tangles before they become tight and pay particular attention where the coat rubs together. A short pet trim reduces the work but does not remove the need for combing, bathing and regular clipping. Anyone who wants to show the dog needs to keep the coat in a condition that meets the standard.

The fact that the breed does not shed according to the Swedish Kennel Club does not make it allergy-safe. Allergens also come from skin, saliva and other bodily fluids, and the Swedish Asthma and Allergy Association stresses that no dog breed can be called allergy-safe. Where dog allergy is a concern, the reaction needs to be assessed for the individual person and dog before purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

The Biewer Terrier is typically a lively, attentive and close companion, not a passive lapdog. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as cheerful, alert and fearless, while the breed standard highlights trainability, loyalty and a strong attachment to the family. This often makes the dog involved in everything happening at home.

The terrier side is most evident in watchfulness, independence and a desire to follow movement. The Swedish Kennel Club states that some prey drive occurs and that the dog may run after birds, cats and other small animals. A reliable recall, a lead where needed and early training around such distractions are therefore more important than the dog's small size might suggest.

Barking cannot be predicted from the breed name alone. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club describes considerable variation: some individuals bark, while others do not. If noise levels are decisive in a home with thin walls, ask what the parent dogs tend to react to and meet them if possible. Also plan early, gradual training around everyday sounds and calm behaviour at the door.

## Training & Exercise

The Biewer Terrier needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no well-supported minute-by-minute formula that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness and how well the dog settles after activity are better guides than a fixed number of minutes.

A workable routine includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play and short training sessions. Train recall, lead walking, handling, house training and settling calmly in clear, gradual steps. Small dogs need the same consistent everyday skills as large ones; carrying the dog past every difficult situation is not a substitute for training.

The breed may enjoy agility, rally obedience, nose work and trick training. Adapt obstacles and physical load to a small body and build fitness gradually. The aim is a dog that both wants to work and can settle at home; more activity is not automatically better if there is too little recovery.

## Health

The overall health of the Biewer Terrier in Sweden cannot yet be summarised with confidence because the number of registered dogs is limited. It is therefore more responsible to examine documented results and the closest relatives than to label the breed either healthy or unhealthy.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs according to the Swedish Kennel Club. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella status. Ask the breeder to show documented results for both parents and explain how any findings in close relatives have affected breeding decisions.

Eyes are another area to check. The breed club recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and describes both cataracts in Nordic dogs and the inherited retinal condition prcd-PRA, for which a DNA test is available. Ask for current eye results and how the breeder uses DNA results when planning a mating; a genetic test does not replace a clinical eye examination.

Teeth require practical preventive care from the start. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends daily tooth brushing because small dogs can readily develop tartar and poor oral health. Gradually accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled, and ask a veterinarian to assess retained baby teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty eating.

A good health discussion before purchase should therefore cover official results, actual diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's follow-up plan. A long list of conditions that can affect small dogs says less than verifiable information about the particular mating.

## History & Origins

The Biewer Terrier was developed in Germany during the 1980s from Yorkshire Terriers. The background section of the Swedish standard describes a 1984 litter in which puppies born to two purebred Yorkshire Terriers had white markings. The Biewer couple then continued to breed deliberately for the trait.

The breed therefore shares its origins with the Yorkshire Terrier, but it is not simply another colour name for that breed. It has its own standard, a defined tri-coloured pattern and is described in the standard as clearly genetically distinct from the breed of origin. The first Biewer Terrier registered in Sweden entered the Swedish Kennel Club register in 2018.

The breed is nationally recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and other Nordic kennel clubs but is not recognised by the FCI. This mainly matters for registration and certain international show awards. If importing, ask the Swedish Kennel Club to confirm that the particular pedigree can be registered before paying a deposit; a registration certificate from another country is not in itself a guarantee of Swedish registration.

## Living with the Breed

The Biewer Terrier can live in either a flat or a house, but a small home does not make dog ownership low-maintenance. What matters is whether the dog receives daily activity, can be trained to stay calm around everyday sounds, and gets the extensive coat and dental care the breed needs.

With children, the dog's very small body is the main safety issue. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that dogs and young children always have an adult present and that very small dogs are handled with extra care. Children should not carry a puppy, chase it or disturb it in its resting place. Calm interaction says more about suitability than the label “child-friendly”.

Living with a cat or other dogs can work, but it is not guaranteed by breed. The Biewer Terrier's prey drive makes a running cat especially relevant. Give the cat a secure dog-free area and high escape places, keep initial meetings short and controlled, and do not allow chasing. With other dogs, play needs to be managed so that the little dog is not injured by the size difference.

Time alone must be trained, not tested with a long first absence. The Swedish Kennel Club states that a young puppy cannot be left alone and that an adult dog trained to be alone can normally manage a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. Begin when the puppy feels secure, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often when young or old.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions: can you care for the coat throughout the year, brush the teeth daily, plan gradual training for time alone, and give a small but active dog both exercise and mental work? If the answer is yes, the Biewer Terrier can be an engaged and close companion; if you want a low-maintenance little dog, it is a poorer choice.

Biewer Terrier

Deutscher Biewer Yorkshire Terrier Club (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

The Biewer Terrier is a small, tri-colored toy companion dog with a long, silky, low-shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, playful, and people-oriented, it suits apartment living, needs moderate exercise, gentle training, and can live into its mid teens with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Golden Dreampaws

## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

Viking Stafforsdshire

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Uppfödning av cocker spaniel i liten skala i hemmiljö i Täby utanför Stockholm. Alla våra hundar är meriterade och hälsotestade och valpar säljes enligt Svenska Kennelklubbens regler: besiktigade, chip-märkta, vaccinerade och dolda felförsäkrade.

Giggs

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Som del i min mammas uppfödning av dvärgschnauzer har vi nu tagit en första kull på vår bichon Havanais tik Lupita.

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