## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

I Vedum är Miles From Nowhere kopplad till Labrador retriever i Get a Pets profil. SKK Hunddata ger ett separat registerspår genom Labrador Retriever-poster med Miles From Nowhere-prefixet, bland annat SE17623/2023 och SE48867/2022. För jämförelse av uppfödare blir det en konkret, långlivad koppling mellan prefixet och rasen.

Miles From Nowhere

Schapendoes

Schapendoes Club of Great Britain

The Kennel Club (UK) - Schapendoes

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Schapendoes

Swedish Kennel Club - Schapendoes

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK) - Schapendoes

Cheerful Dutch herding breed with a shaggy, low‑shedding but high‑maintenance coat. Medium, athletic and agile, it needs daily exercise and mental work yet is calm and cuddly indoors. Intelligent, sensitive and people focused, it suits active, engaged owners and varied dog sports.

Nödinge Andersgården

## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Fraser’s Ridge

## Quick Facts

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a large, athletic dog from southern Africa, best known for the strip of hair along its back that grows in the opposite direction from the rest of the coat. The breed is best suited to someone who has plenty of time for physical activity and training, and who can manage an independent dog with a background in hunting and guarding.

- **Origin:** southern Africa. South Africa and Zimbabwe are responsible for the breed standard.
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 6, scent hounds and related breeds.
- **Height at the withers:** the desirable range is 63–69 cm for males and 61–66 cm for females.
- **Desirable weight:** approximately 36.5 kg for males and 32 kg for females under the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and smooth, ranging from light wheaten to red wheaten.
- **Temperament:** the breed ideal is dignified and intelligent, with some reserve towards strangers but without aggression or fearfulness.
- **Activity level:** high. A Rhodesian Ridgeback needs varied exercise, mental challenges and time to settle.

A breed description is not a promise about an individual dog. Parents, close relatives, upbringing and training will tell you more about the puppy in front of you.

## Appearance & Coat

A Rhodesian Ridgeback should be powerful and muscular while remaining agile and balanced, never heavy or cumbersome. The standard gives 63–69 cm and about 36.5 kg as desirable for males, and 61–66 cm and about 32 kg for females. These are breed ideals, not a guarantee of every adult dog's eventual weight.

The ridge is the breed's defining feature. It should begin behind the shoulders, taper towards the hip bones and be symmetrical. The standard requires two matching whorls, known as crowns, placed opposite one another. The wrong number of crowns is a conformation fault, and absence of the ridge is a disqualifying fault in conformation judging. This does not determine how the dog will cope with everyday life. The appearance of the ridge and examination for dermoid sinus are separate matters.

The coat should be short, dense, smooth and glossy, neither woolly nor silky. Colour ranges from light wheaten to red wheaten. A little white on the chest and toes is allowed, as are a dark muzzle and ears, while extensive white and excessive black hair are undesirable. The nose may be black or brown, and the eyes should harmonise with the coat and nose colour.

This short coat does not require specialist grooming. Brush and bathe as needed, keep the nails at a comfortable length and check the skin, ears and paws. Adapt care to the individual dog and its daily routine rather than following a rigid weekly schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Rhodesian Ridgeback is independent, alert and reserved with people it does not know. Reserve means the dog may prefer to stand back; it is not the same as fear. The breed standard does not consider either shyness or aggression desirable, while the breed club's behavioural material shows that social confidence, reactions and recovery vary between individuals.

The breed has a background in both hunting and guarding. Hunting interest, vigilance and independent decisions may therefore be evident in daily life, although their intensity differs from dog to dog. A dog that notices visitors is not automatically a reliable guard dog, and being quiet during a behavioural assessment does not guarantee a quiet dog at home.

The Swedish BPH behavioural assessment can provide useful information about how a dog reacts in a defined test situation. It is a description, not an examination that the dog passes or fails. Read the full result in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata, paying particular attention to social confidence, fear and recovery. Ask to meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives as well. Their behaviour in ordinary situations provides better evidence than labels such as “family-friendly” or “stable” in an advert.

A Rhodesian Ridgeback can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is not a safety guarantee. An adult should always supervise interactions, and the dog must be allowed to eat, sleep and withdraw without being disturbed. Choose the individual dog and breeder to suit your actual family circumstances rather than relying on a general label.

## Training & Exercise

A Rhodesian Ridgeback needs a great deal of physical and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A sound routine includes walks through varied environments, opportunities to move more freely in secure places, scent work and tasks that involve cooperation, followed by time to settle.

Tracking, search exercises and other scent-based activities make constructive use of the breed's abilities. Strength, speed and stamina should be developed gradually, especially in a growing youngster. Adjust the load to the dog's body, the surface and its recovery rather than following a simple age formula.

Independence does not make the breed untrainable, but it does make motivation and clarity important. Reward-based, varied sessions are more effective than long repetitions or harsh confrontation. Start engagement, loose-lead work and recall training early. If the dog is inclined to pursue wildlife, use a long line or a securely fenced area until the training remains reliable in the presence of distractions.

Introduce the puppy to people, dogs, places and sounds at a pace that still allows it to engage with you and recover. The goal is not to greet everyone, but to feel secure in everyday situations.

## Health

Before buying a puppy, official hip and elbow results and a documented examination of the puppy for dermoid sinus are key checks. Match every result to the identity of the dog, and distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules and the breed club's stricter conditions for its puppy-referral service.

For a Rhodesian Ridgeback litter to be registered, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed also has a specific requirement for official elbow dysplasia status. Nordic breeding dogs covered by the rule must not be bred from if they have ED grade 2 or 3, or clinically diagnosed or surgically treated elbow dysplasia. A known result is not automatically a good result, so read the grade itself and ask how the mating was planned.

The puppy-referral criteria of the Swedish Rhodesian Ridgeback Club go beyond these basic requirements. They include conditions relating to parental age, hip grades and pairings, ED grade 0 and behavioural documentation for certain dogs. If a litter is advertised through the referral service, check what that meant for the particular mating. If it is not listed, ask which condition was not met; the label alone does not reveal the entire health picture.

Dermoid sinus, commonly shortened to DS, is a congenital developmental abnormality in which the skin and underlying tissue do not separate completely during foetal development. It can form a tract of varying depth. Puppies should therefore be examined carefully by someone with appropriate experience, and buyers should be told who performed the check and what was recorded.

Research has linked the genetic change that produces the ridge with a higher risk of DS, but a ridge test is not a diagnostic test for dermoid sinus. The breed club stresses that the complete genetic cause of DS has not been established and advises against a newer commercial risk test that lacks published validation. A visibly correct ridge can therefore never replace a physical examination of the puppy.

DNA tests for conditions such as juvenile myoclonic epilepsy, JME, and degenerative myelopathy, DM, should not be treated as a compulsory standard panel for every Swedish mating. The breed club recommends assessment based on relationships and known results. Ask the breeder why a particular test was chosen, which dog the result belongs to and how it influenced the mating. That is more informative than an unspecified claim that the dogs are “DNA tested”.

Keep the dog at a healthy, functional body condition as well. Monitor weight, waistline, how easily you can feel the ribs and stamina over time. Let a vet assess changes or symptoms rather than drawing conclusions from a generic list of diseases.

## History & Origins

The Rhodesian Ridgeback was developed in southern Africa and is the only internationally recognised dog breed to originate there. In the Cape Colony, the dogs of early settlers were crossed with local, semi-domesticated ridge-bearing hunting dogs. The official history does not provide a definitive list of every European breed behind the modern dog, so precise recipes are speculative.

The breed's original work led to the name “lion dog”, but that description needs context. The dogs were expected to track game, especially lion, and use their agility to hold it at bay from a distance until the hunter arrived. They often worked in pairs or groups of three; their role was not to kill a lion on their own.

F.R. Barnes drew up the first breed standard in Bulawayo, in what was then Rhodesia, in 1922, using the Dalmatian standard as a model. It was recognised by the South African kennel organisation in 1926. The current standard is maintained by South Africa and Zimbabwe and still describes a fast, functional dog with stamina rather than a heavy-bodied one.

## Living with the Breed

A Rhodesian Ridgeback is best suited to a home that can provide close company, daily activity, consistent training and clear opportunities to rest. The size of the home does not determine suitability on its own. Flat living can work if the dog's needs are met outside and it can relax indoors; a large garden replaces neither walks, scent work nor cooperation with its owner.

Time alone must be introduced gradually, without leaving a puppy before it is ready. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. There is no breed-based hourly limit that suits every adult. Plan around the dog you actually have and arrange help if it shows distress, vocalisation, destructive behaviour or difficulty settling.

Whether a Rhodesian Ridgeback can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction. Keep initial meetings controlled, give each animal a separate safe space and prevent chasing. A puppy raised with a cat may develop good habits, but that does not predict with certainty how it will react to unfamiliar small animals outdoors.

Before buying, the following checks are more valuable than general promises:

- verify the parents' identities and official HD and ED results in SKK Avelsdata;
- ask whether the litter meets the breed club's puppy-referral conditions and what any exceptions mean;
- request documentation of the puppy's dermoid sinus examination;
- read the BPH results of parents and close relatives as descriptions, not scores;
- ask why any DNA tests were performed and how the results affected the mating;
- meet adult relatives and assess confidence, recovery, hunting interest and the ability to settle in daily life;
- be honest about the time you have for training, exercise, daytime care and gradual alone-time training.

The right dog should not merely conform to the breed standard. It should come from parents with well-documented health and have traits that suit the life you can offer.

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Verein für Deutsche Doggen (Germany)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Great Britain

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a powerful, athletic African hunting dog with a distinctive ridge of reverse-growing hair. Loyal and affectionate with family but reserved with strangers, it needs ample daily exercise, consistent positive training, and suits active, experienced owners.

För den som söker Rhodesian ridgeback i Åkersberga ger Jupi-Lis ett tydligt eget webbspår. Get a Pets profil anger namn, ras och ort, medan kennelns webbplats välkomnar till Jupi-Lis Kennel och placerar verksamheten i Åkersberga. Historiksidan beskriver att kennelprefixet togs över 1996 i samband med planerna på Rhodesian ridgeback och samlar äldre kullsidor från 1996, 1998, 2000 och 2003.

Jupi-Lis

## Quick Facts

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the United States as a herding and working dog and suits people who want to train and work with their dog every day. It is quick, responsive and versatile, but its working drive and guarding and herding instincts mean it is rarely suited to someone primarily looking for an undemanding companion.

- The breed belongs to FCI Group 1 and was developed to work sheep and cattle on farms and ranches.
- Desirable height at the withers is 51–58 cm for males and 46–53 cm for females. The breed standard gives no ideal weight.
- The coat is medium-length, weather-resistant and has an undercoat. The base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red, with or without white markings and tan points.
- The tail may be naturally long or short. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.
- An Australian Shepherd needs daily physical activity, problem-solving, co-operation and opportunities to settle.
- For Swedish breeding dogs, official hip dysplasia (HD) status and known mental status through an MH assessment are key checks. MH records reactions; it is not a pass-or-fail test.

## Appearance & Coat

The Australian Shepherd is a medium-sized, well-balanced and mobile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. It should be muscular and solid without becoming heavy or clumsy, because its construction must allow quick changes of direction and sustained work. The standard specifies desirable height but no ideal weight. Assess an adult by its proportions, body condition, movement and function rather than relying on a weight range said to come from the standard.

The coat is straight to wavy, medium-length and weather-resistant. The amount of undercoat varies with factors including climate and season. A correct coat needs regular combing and closer checks during shedding, but not an identical weekly schedule for every dog. Feel through the coat to the skin and pay particular attention to areas where friction can easily cause tangles, such as behind the ears and in the feathering. Check the skin, paws and nails at the same time after work in woodland or rough ground.

The four base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red. All may occur with or without white markings and tan points. Eyes may be brown, blue or amber, including combinations, flecks and marbling. Different-coloured eyes are therefore permitted and, by themselves, say nothing about the dog's temperament.

The tail may be naturally long or naturally short. The latter is often called NBT, natural bobtail, and must not be confused with a docked tail. The Swedish Kennel Club registers the breed with a tail designation showing whether the dog has a full-length tail, a bobtail, a tail shorter than normal, no tail or a docked tail. For a puppy buyer, the registration entry is better evidence than guessing from a photograph.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Australian Shepherd should be an intelligent working dog with strong herding and guarding instincts, an even disposition and a good-natured manner. It may be reserved when first meeting strangers, but breed-typical neutrality is not the same as fear or aggression. The Swedish Australian Shepherd Club therefore emphasises that neutral is a clearer term than reserved.

There is considerable variation between individuals and families. Some dogs work very intensely in relation to people and their surroundings, while others are more balanced in everyday life; the strength of herding, guarding, sound reactions and social interest can also differ. Labels such as working line or show line are not enough to predict a puppy's temperament. Look instead at the parents, mature close relatives, the breeder's goals, working records and documented mental assessments.

As a herding dog, the breed uses its body and movement to control livestock. This can produce a strong interest in things that move. In daily life, a dog may want to follow, stop or control running children, bicycles, joggers or other animals. This is a possible breed trait, not something every Australian Shepherd does and not an excuse to let the behaviour continue. Distance, a lead or barrier, a trained alternative and rewards for checking in make the situation safer while the skill is being taught.

MH is particularly useful when comparing breeding dogs and relatives. The assessment records how a dog reacted to contact, handling, play, surprises, noise and gunshots, among other things. It cannot on its own predict how a puppy will develop, and it does not measure the whole of working ability. Read the full record and ask how the dog behaves and recovers in ordinary environments.

## Training & Exercise

An Australian Shepherd needs both movement and tasks involving scent work, problem-solving and co-operation every day, but a fixed number of hours does not describe what an individual dog needs. A calm woodland walk, tracking or searching, everyday obedience, herding, working trials, agility and other well-planned training place different demands on the dog. Adapt volume and intensity to age, health, previous conditioning and recovery.

A manageable daily life requires more than making the dog physically tired. Prioritise the following from an early age:

- engagement and responsiveness even when something is moving nearby,
- recall, first practised in an easy setting and secured with a long line when needed,
- loose-lead walking, handling and the ability to wait,
- a clear transition between activity and calm,
- the ability to disengage from following or controlling children, vehicles and animals.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and adapted to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means accidentally rewarded habits can become established quickly. Make the desired behaviour easy to choose, increase difficulty gradually and do not use fear, threats or physical punishment.

Puppies and young dogs need movement, environmental experience, rest and short learning sessions, not an adult dog's workload or an exercise schedule based on a fixed number of minutes. The aim is a dog that can work with commitment, remain responsive and then settle. If activity increases while the dog finds it harder to sleep, relax or cope with everyday stimuli, the plan needs reviewing rather than simply adding more speed.

## Health

For a Swedish puppy buyer, the crucial distinction is between binding registration rules, breed-club recommendations and optional DNA tests. Under the current Swedish Kennel Club rules, official hip dysplasia status is required before mating and, for resident Swedish breeding dogs covered by the rules, known mental status through a complete MH assessment is also required. Known status does not automatically mean a good hip result or a desirable mental profile; check the actual result.

In its breed-specific breeding strategy, SASK generally recommends hip grades A or B and an eye examination for breeding dogs. The club also highlights the value of checking hip results in close relatives because the breed has no hip index. Elbow dysplasia (ED) screening is voluntary and is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Ask the breeder to show what was actually examined, on which dog, on what date and with what result rather than accepting the phrase health tested.

DNA tests are available for CEA, HSF4 and MDR1, among others, but SASK does not prescribe one universal panel for every mating. Each test concerns a particular gene or risk variant. A clear HSF4 result, for example, does not rule out every form of cataract and does not replace a clinical eye examination. Relevant tests are selected according to documented risks in the family and the planned mating.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, can affect how certain medicines are distributed in the body and reach the brain. An individual dog's status cannot be determined from its appearance. If the dog has been tested, the result should be recorded in its veterinary notes; medicine selection and dosage always belong with the veterinarian.

Two merle dogs should not be mated. The combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle variant and an increased risk of deafness and visual or eye abnormalities. The naturally short NBT tail has a different genetic basis. SASK recommends caution with matings in which both parents carry the NBT variant as well, but the two issues should not be confused.

## History & Origins

Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd as it is known today was developed in the United States. The FCI standard links the name to Basque shepherds who came to the United States from Australia during the nineteenth century. The precise contribution of older herding dogs is less certain, so a detailed account of a fixed breed recipe should be treated as theory.

American sheep and cattle farmers continued selecting dogs for versatility, independent work, intelligence and herding ability. After the Second World War, awareness of the breed grew as Western riding, rodeos, horse shows, films and television reached a wider audience. The modern breed's American ranch background explains both the paradox in its name and why function remains central to its description.

## Living with the Breed

The Australian Shepherd is best suited to a routine that includes planned activity, learning and recovery even during ordinary working weeks. A large garden does not replace shared tasks, and competition ambitions are unnecessary if the dog still has a meaningful and varied life. Anyone wanting a dog that mainly joins shorter walks should choose a less demanding type.

With children, an adult should always be present, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the household needs a plan for high-energy play. Interrupt and create distance before the dog begins to fixate on or control movement. Children should not be responsible for situations in which a quick, strong dog may react to its surroundings.

Living with dogs or cats depends on the individuals and the introduction, not the breed name. Find out about the parents' and the particular dog's history. Begin calmly with separate safe spaces, a barrier and a lead, give the cat an unobstructed escape route and progress only when both animals can remain relaxed. Small pets may require permanent physical separation.

The breed can live in a flat if it gets enough time outdoors, meaningful tasks and rest, and the owner can manage reactions to noise. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners need to prevent noises in shared areas from prompting the dog to guard and bark. Time alone should be trained gradually and judged by the individual dog's behaviour. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is an outing guideline, not a measure of how long an individual is comfortable being alone.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registration numbers, hip results, full MH records, dates and results of eye examinations, and relevant DNA results. Also check the tail designation and working achievements, and ask how mature close relatives behave around people, noise, movement, rest and recovery. Those details say more about what daily life with the dog is likely to be like than colour, eyes or whether the breeder calls the dogs working-line or show-line.

Australian Shepherd

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

The Australian Shepherd is a medium, athletic herding dog, highly intelligent and energetic. Loyal and people oriented, it bonds closely and needs substantial daily exercise, training, and mental work. Its striking, weather resistant coat and varied eye colors add to its appeal.

Whambam

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Hos mig bor en flock finska lapphundar, alla bor inne med oss och allt som hör vardagen till. Jag är utbildad beteendeutredare, instruktör samt hunddagisfröken. 

Varmt välkomna med frågor, funderingar eller intresseanmälan! :)

På hemsidan ser ni planerade parningar, alla hundar samt tidigare kullar så kika gärna in där!

https://extramyckethund.se/

Domras

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

## Quick Facts

- The Shih Tzu is a small, purebred companion dog with roots in Tibet and development in China; Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard.
- The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. The FCI recognises one Shih Tzu, not separate “mini”, “imperial” or “teacup” varieties.
- Typical traits include a friendly yet independent nature, an alert expression and a sturdy body that is slightly longer than it is tall.
- The long coat requires substantial care. A shorter pet trim reduces the workload but does not remove the need for brushing, bathing and checking the eyes, ears, paws and skin.
- Free, quiet breathing, non-prominent eyes and a functional mouth matter more than an extremely short muzzle or an exaggerated coat.
- A Shih Tzu can thrive in a flat, but still needs daily movement, mental stimulation and social contact.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shih Tzu is small but sturdily built, not a delicate miniature dog. The body length from the withers to the root of the tail should exceed the height at the withers. The chest is broad and deep, and the high-set tail is carried in a curve over the back. The head is broad and round. The muzzle is short and wide, but the nostrils should be well open and the eyes large without being prominent.

The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. Breed type and sound function should take priority over trying to produce the smallest possible dog. Terms such as “imperial” and “teacup” therefore do not describe recognised size varieties of the breed.

The coat consists of long, dense outer hair and a moderate undercoat that should not be woolly. It may be straight or slightly wavy, and all colours are permitted. The hair on the head creates the characteristic chrysanthemum-like expression, but it must not obstruct the dog’s vision. The coat must never be so long or heavy that it restricts movement.

A Shih Tzu in a full-length coat needs a consistent routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes regular baths, thorough drying and combing to prevent mats. Hair around the face needs to be kept clear of the eyes, and the coat should be worked through down to the skin so that small tangles do not become large and painful.

A clipped Shih Tzu is easier to care for, but not maintenance-free. The coat continues to grow and needs brushing, washing and clipping at an interval that suits the individual coat and daily life. The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic: how a person reacts to a dog cannot be determined by the coat’s appearance or the amount of visible hair in the home.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shih Tzu should be friendly, lively, alert and independent. This companion dog often enjoys taking part in family life, but its independence may show when the dog sees no point in a task. That gives the breed character and humour, but does not make every individual automatically cooperative in every situation.

Temperament varies between individuals and is shaped by breeding, early experiences and everyday training. The breed’s friendliness is therefore no guarantee that every Shih Tzu will love all children, dogs or cats. Life with children works best when they can handle the dog calmly, leave it undisturbed while resting and avoid carrying it without help. Young children and the dog should always have an adult close by.

Meetings with other dogs and cats should be built up gradually. A calm introduction and the option to move away matter more than the assumption that the breed always gets along with everyone. Some individuals are open from the start; others need more time.

A Shih Tzu may bark at sounds and visitors, but the amount of vocalisation varies and can be influenced by daily routines. Reward calm behaviour, give the dog an alternative to rushing to the door and avoid accidentally turning every alert bark into a major event.

## Training & Exercise

The Shih Tzu needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, even though the breed is not built for prolonged, strenuous work. Several walks with time to sniff, short play sessions and small training tasks usually provide a better day than one monotonous route. Distance and intensity must be adjusted to the dog’s age, fitness, the weather and its ability to breathe.

Short, clear training sessions suit the breed’s combination of intelligence and independence. Reward the behaviour you want and work on one thing at a time: engagement, recall, handling, lead walking and settling. House training is easier with frequent chances to go outside, predictable routines and an immediate reward outdoors; there is no evidence that every Shih Tzu is unusually easy or difficult to house-train.

Heat and breathing should determine the level of activity. A Shih Tzu that breathes with effort or noise, quickly loses pace or struggles to recover should not be pushed further. Exercise during cooler parts of the day in warm weather, and ask a veterinarian to assess recurring breathing noise or reduced stamina. Snoring and rattling breathing should not be dismissed as normal simply because the breed is short-muzzled.

Time alone should be taught gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase the duration only while the dog remains calm, and adjust the plan if it shows anxiety or discomfort. In Sweden, dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs generally need more frequent opportunities.

## Health

The main health checks for a Shih Tzu concern breathing, eyes, and the mouth and teeth. The breed can live a long life, and a large British veterinary-record study found an overall disorder pattern closer to dogs in general than to several other flat-faced breeds. That does not mean the risks associated with a shortened skull can be ignored.

The Shih Tzu can be affected by brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, BOAS. In a 2026 British study of 42 Shih Tzus, the breed was assessed as having a moderate risk of BOAS, and just under half of the dogs received grade 0. The sample was small and cannot describe the health of an individual dog, but it shows why breathing must be assessed in practice. Open nostrils, quiet breathing at rest and in motion, normal recovery and a healthy body condition are important signs. The study also found an association between body condition and BOAS grade in Shih Tzus.

The Respiratory Function Grading Scheme, or RFG Scheme, is a standardised functional assessment of breathing. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to introduce central recording of RFG results for Shih Tzus, but assessments can start only when trained veterinarians and the technical procedures are in place. Ask the breeder which breathing assessments have actually been completed and check the current status with the Swedish Kennel Club.

The eyes should be large but not prominent. The Swedish Kennel Club’s breed-specific instructions identify excessively prominent eyes as a risk area, while British health guidance recommends eye screening before breeding. Seek veterinary care promptly if the dog suddenly squints, rubs an eye, or develops marked redness, cloudiness or heavy discharge; corneal injuries are painful and need examination.

The mouth is another priority because the Swedish instructions warn about a narrow lower jaw and poor dental status. In a British study of 11,082 Shih Tzus, disease affecting the gums and supporting structures of the teeth was the most frequently recorded diagnosis. The same study also highlighted anal sac, ear and eye disorders. Daily brushing with dog toothpaste is the most effective home care against plaque; veterinary checks are still needed when tartar, bad breath, bleeding gums or difficulty chewing appear.

The study reported an average age at death of 12.7 years in the British population examined. This is a population measure, not a promise for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Shih Tzu has its roots in Tibet but was developed as a breed in China, where dogs of this type lived in the imperial palaces. The FCI lists Tibet (China) as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country responsible for the breed standard. The breed belongs to the companion-dog group and has never been subject to a working trial requirement.

The first documented import to Great Britain took place in 1931. Shih Tzus were initially shown alongside Lhasa Apsos, but differences in the head and overall type led to the Shih Tzu being recognised as a separate breed in 1934. It was registered separately by the British kennel club in 1940. The breed reached Scandinavia during the 1930s.

The verified history is clear without romantic embellishment: Tibetan roots, development in China and later standardisation in Great Britain. Today’s friendly but independent companion dog reflects the role the breed has long held close to people.

## Living with the Breed

The Shih Tzu is best suited to someone who wants a small, social companion and accepts that the coat, eyes, teeth and breathing require ongoing attention. The breed can suit both flats and houses; what matters is not the size of the home but whether the dog receives movement, scent work, rest, company and regular opportunities to go outside.

Daily life is easiest when grooming, toothbrushing and handling are introduced early in small steps. A dog kept in a short trim still needs to become comfortable with a brush, comb, bath, hair dryer, paw checks and touch around the face. Plan for recurring clipping at home or by a professional groomer as well.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and preferably more adult relatives in normal movement, not only while they are sitting still. Listen to their breathing before and after a short walk, look for open nostrils and eyes that are not prominent, and ask how the breeder monitors the eyes, mouth and teeth, and respiratory function. Ask to see the available examination results and compare them with current information from the Swedish Kennel Club.

The breed is less suitable if the dog will regularly be left alone for long days, if daily coat care is unrealistic or if you want a dog for strenuous exercise in warm weather. For a home that appreciates a close companion who is not always eager to comply, the Shih Tzu can be a very enjoyable choice, provided sound function takes priority over extreme appearance.

Shih Tzu

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy companion dog from Tibetan and Chinese palaces, 4.5–8 kg with a long, flowing coat and chrysanthemum-like face. Affectionate, cheerful, and confident, it suits many homes. Needs moderate exercise, intensive grooming, and patient, reward-based training.

Chagall’s i Borås har Dvärgschnauzer och Shih tzu i Get a Pets profil, med en egen webbplats under namnet Chagalls Kennel. Webbplatsens historiksida beskriver tidigare arbete med flera raser och anger att den första dvärgschnauzern, kallad Miniature Schnauzer i källan, kom 2007. Den nya webbplatsen har avsnitt för egna hundar, valpar och Hundhimlen.

Chagall’s

## Quick Facts

The American Cocker Spaniel is a compact American bird dog and companion with considerable working drive behind its elegant appearance. It is a distinct breed, not a smaller version of the English Cocker Spaniel. The breeds share an origin but have different standards and breeding histories. Even so, you cannot assume that every American Cocker is calmer or has less hunting drive than every English Cocker.

- **Origin:** United States.
- **Classification:** FCI number 167 in Group 8, Retrievers, Flushing Dogs and Water Dogs.
- **Original function:** flushing and retrieving bird dog; the breed standard also lists companion dog.
- **Ideal height at the withers:** about 38 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight.
- **Temperament ideal:** even, confident and cheerful, without shyness.
- **Activity:** needs substantial daily exercise and tasks that engage its nose and cooperation with the handler.
- **Coat care:** demanding, especially when the coat is kept long. A shorter sport trim makes daily care easier but does not remove the need to check the ears, feet and skin.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine companionship with training and accepts regular coat and ear care. It can suit a first-time owner who seeks help when needed, but it is not automatically an easy choice simply because it is relatively small.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Cocker Spaniel should be a strong, balanced and mobile dog in a compact format. The body is slightly longer than tall but should look neither long nor low. The clearly defined head should be in proportion to the body. The eyes should be dark and must not protrude; the expression should be alert and gentle. Movement should be free and efficient, without the abundant coat obscuring the dog's outline.

The standard divides the colours into black, solid colours other than black, and parti-colours. The body coat is medium in length with a protective undercoat. The ears, chest, abdomen and legs carry more feathering. Correct coat is silky and straight or slightly wavy. Excessive coat, a cottony texture or curl is not the goal: the American Cocker Spaniel should still function as a sporting dog.

How often the coat needs combing and clipping depends on its amount, length and texture, as well as the dog's activity and the weather. Part the coat down to the skin and check that a comb passes through without resistance. Tangles readily form around the ears, armpits, groin and feet and under a harness or collar. After walks in woodland, rain or swimming, the coat needs an extra check and thorough drying.

A full show coat requires considerably more work than a shorter sport trim. Ask the breeder to demonstrate the care routine before the puppy comes home. Gradually accustom the puppy to a comb, dryer, clippers, foot handling and standing still for short periods. Grooming then becomes an everyday skill rather than a struggle after the coat has already matted.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an even, bold and cheerful dog that enjoys working with its person. Many American Cockers seek contact, are playful and learn quickly, but the standard describes a breeding goal—it does not promise the temperament of an individual dog. Genetics, early experiences, health, upbringing and training all have an influence.

The Swedish BPH data are too limited to provide a reliable picture of temperament across the breed: the current breeding strategy reports only 25 assessed dogs in 2015–2023. It is therefore more useful to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other close relatives. Watch how the dogs seek contact, accept handling, respond to something unexpected and settle again. Ask how relatives cope with the kind of daily life you are planning.

Hunting traits vary but can remain. The breed is still described as a flushing and retrieving bird dog, although hunting use is uncommon in Sweden. An American Cocker may therefore suddenly become very interested in a scent or bird. Recall and outdoor engagement need to be trained rather than assumed.

## Training & Exercise

The American Cocker Spaniel needs daily activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, environment and the day's other demands determine what is appropriate. A good routine combines walks and free movement in safe places with scent work, retrieving, cooperation and the ability to settle afterwards.

The breed's background offers several natural training routes. Search exercises, tracking human scent, blood tracking, controlled retrieving and tasks in which the dog works close to the handler engage both its nose and its willingness to cooperate. Rally obedience, obedience, agility and freestyle may also suit the individual. Start simply and increase difficulty, duration and physical load only when the dog is recovering well.

Prioritise recall, engagement, calm behaviour around encounters and the ability to leave a scent trail from an early age. Also train everyday skills: examination around the eyes and ears, foot handling, standing on a grooming table and resting despite movement nearby. Short, clear sessions and rewards the dog values help maintain motivation.

More activity is not always the answer to restlessness. A dog that struggles to settle may need clearer recovery time, better-adjusted training or a health check. For a puppy, new environments, body awareness and short tasks should take priority over long, repetitive exercise sessions.

## Health

The ears are the most important health area to plan for, and eye examination is the clear Swedish breeding requirement. The Swedish breeding strategy identifies ear inflammation as the breed's most common health problem. Drop ears, abundant ear hair and a rich coat make it particularly important to be able to see the skin, keep the hair around the ear opening manageable and spot problems early.

Odour, redness, swelling, discharge, tenderness or head shaking are reasons to contact a veterinarian. Recurrent problems should be investigated because there may be an underlying cause. Healthy ears do not, however, need cleaning according to a frequent standard schedule. Nor does the breeding strategy support the claim that American Cockers are generally born with narrow ear canals.

Hereditary eye conditions including cataracts and retinal folds occur, and PRA has been identified in isolated cases. For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official eye-examination result. The certificate may be no more than one year old, and the result must be valid before mating. The rule requires a current result; it does not mean that every diagnosis must be marked clear. Check the parents' results and dates in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata database, and ask the breeder to explain how any findings were assessed for the proposed mating.

A DNA test for prcd-PRA is neither a guarantee against all PRA nor a replacement for an eye examination. In 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club's breeding committee rejected an application for a central level 1 prcd-PRA health programme for the American Cocker Spaniel because it had not been established that confirmed PRA cases in the breed were caused by that particular mutation. Do not confuse the breed's Swedish requirements with testing packages for the English Cocker Spaniel: FN, hip dysplasia screening and patella examination are not formal registration requirements for the American Cocker Spaniel under the current rules.

The Swedish Kennel Club's special judging instructions highlight head shape, eyes and excessive coat. When choosing a puppy, sound proportions, eyes that neither protrude nor water constantly, a correct bite, free movement and a coat that does not hinder the dog matter more than an extreme look. Healthy parents reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The American and English Cocker Spaniels share roots, but the American type developed in the United States and became a distinct breed. Obo II, born in 1882, is commonly identified as an important early dog in its American history. Differences in type became clearer during the first half of the 1900s.

In 1945, the American Kennel Club divided the Cocker Spaniel into American and English Cocker Spaniels. The first American Cockers arrived in Sweden in the 1950s. The FCI lists the United States as the country of origin and places the breed among retrievers, flushing dogs and water dogs. Today's breed is often oriented towards companionship and showing, but the bird-dog function in the standard explains why scent work, searching and retrieving remain relevant activities.

## Living with the Breed

The American Cocker Spaniel can live well in a house or flat when activity, access outdoors, coat care and recovery are properly arranged. In a building where sound carries, training for calm behaviour around noises and a plan for the dog's days are needed; the breed name does not tell you whether an individual will bark a lot or a little.

The breed can live happily with children, dogs and other animals, but the breed alone provides no guarantee. A dog and small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Introductions to other animals should be calm and controlled. Consider the individual's previous experience, resource guarding, play style and interest in chasing, not just a general breed description.

Alone time is taught gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Some individuals learn quickly; others need a slower plan. The breed should therefore be described neither as unable to stay alone nor as trouble-free without training.

The following checks are particularly useful before buying a puppy:

- View both parents' official eye results and dates in Avelsdata; check that each result was no more than one year old at mating.
- Ask about recurrent ear, eye and skin problems in the parents and close relatives, not only whether the dogs appear healthy on that particular day.
- Meet the puppy's mother and observe contact, handling, reactions to sound and recovery. Ask about other close relatives if the father is not present.
- Look for free movement, sound head proportions, eyes that do not protrude, water or squint, and a quantity of coat that can be maintained without hindering the dog.
- Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat and ear care, and judge the workload against the coat length you actually intend to keep.
- Describe the daily life and activities you are planning. A breeder who knows their lines should be able to discuss variation rather than promise that every puppy will be the same.

Rules and recommendations can change. Always check the current versions with the Swedish Kennel Club and breed club when buying rather than relying on an old checklist.

American Cocker Spaniel

American Cocker Spaniel: a small, sturdy gundog with a silky coat and large, expressive eyes. Cheerful, affectionate, and people‑oriented, it suits active families. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, gentle positive training, and regular, thorough grooming and ear care.

Vi på Black And Buff’s föder upp Amerikansk cocker spaniel i Trelleborg. Vårt kennelnamn representerade rasen redan 2019 och återkom med flera hundar i ett utställningssammanhang i Tvååker 2023. De två årtalen ger en tydlig tidslinje för uppfödningen.

Black And Buff’s

## Quick Facts

The Beagle is a sociable, enduring hunting dog that follows scent trails with great determination. Its manageable size makes the breed easy to take along, but its highly developed sense of smell, hunting instinct and voice require more planning than its size might suggest.

- **Origin:** Great Britain
- **Use:** A driving hound used to hunt species including hare, roe deer, deer and fox
- **Size:** 33–40 cm at the withers and usually 10–15 kg as an adult
- **Temperament:** Merry, open, lively and friendly, but also independent and persistent
- **Activity:** Needs daily physical exercise and regular opportunities to use its nose
- **Coat:** Short, dense and weather-resistant; easy to care for but sheds
- **Best suited to:** Someone who wants an active life with a sociable dog and can manage recall, noise and a keen appetite

## Appearance & Coat

The Beagle is a compact, sturdy dog that should look athletic without being coarse. Its body is well balanced, its legs are strong and its chest is developed for sustained work. The long, low-set ears lie close to the cheeks, while the strong tail is carried high when the dog is moving.

The breed standard gives a desirable height of 33–40 cm at the withers. According to Swedish breed guidance, an adult usually weighs 10–15 kg. Body condition matters more than the number on the scales: a well-muscled working dog and a less active companion may weigh differently despite being the same height.

The coat is short, dense and protective in bad weather. Black, tan and white tricolour is familiar, but the standard also permits several two-colour and mottled combinations. The tip of the tail must be white.

Coat care is straightforward. Regular brushing catches loose hair, particularly during heavier shedding. At the same time, check the skin, paws, nails and teeth. Drop ears can increase the risk of ear inflammation, but healthy ears should not be cleaned unnecessarily. Head shaking, scratching, redness, pain, unpleasant-smelling discharge or recurring trouble should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Beagle is friendly, lively and curious, with an even temperament and a keen desire to be involved. The breed was developed to work closely with people and other dogs and is often sociable at home. However, it was not bred to wait for instructions at every turn. A hunting Beagle must make its own decisions and persist with a trail, which can easily look like stubbornness in everyday life.

Many Beagles live happily with children and other dogs. This is a common breed tendency, not a promise about every individual or encounter. Children need to learn to leave the dog alone while it eats or rests, and an adult should always supervise interactions actively between a dog and young children.

Using its voice is part of the breed's work. A Beagle may bark or give a resonant hunting cry when following scent, becoming excited or seeking contact. The amount of noise varies. Adequate activity, thoughtful training for time alone and calm household routines can reduce unnecessary noise, but anyone who needs a completely quiet dog should choose another breed.

Food is often a powerful motivator. That can make reward-based training easier, but it also means that food on worktops, open bins and edible things found outdoors can quickly become a problem.

## Training & Exercise

The Beagle needs daily physical activity, mental training and, above all, purposeful scent work. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog: age, health, hunting, pace and other activities all affect the appropriate workload. A good routine includes walks with time to sniff, longer outings over varied ground and regular tasks that let the dog search or follow trails.

Blood tracking, human scent tracking, nosework and simple search games make excellent use of the breed's greatest strength. Owners interested in hunting can develop the Beagle's traditional work as a driving hound. In Sweden, the breed works alone when hunting hare, roe deer, deer and fox, while blood tracking can also build skills for finding wounded game. Not every individual suits every quarry; hunting style, speed and voice all matter.

Use rewards and increase difficulty gradually. Short sessions, clear cues and rewards the dog genuinely values are more effective than harsh corrections. Part of the daily food allowance can be used for training so that rewards do not add more calories than intended.

Recall deserves particular care. A Beagle that finds a fresh trail may value the scent more highly than its handler, even if recall works in a quiet setting. Begin without distractions, continue on a long line and increase the challenge only when the dog succeeds. Many Beagles need a long line or a securely enclosed area for greater freedom. Do not let the dog off near traffic or wildlife simply because recall worked the day before.

Teach the dog to settle as well. A Beagle that gets both purposeful work and rest is often easier to live with than one kept constantly busy.

## Health

The Beagle is generally considered a healthy breed, but uncommon diseases can still affect individual dogs. Swedish breed information mentions thyroid disorders, intervertebral disc disease, epilepsy, steroid-responsive meningitis-arteritis and hip dysplasia. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, known as RAS, also covers the inherited conditions Musladin–Lueke syndrome, or MLS, and Lafora epilepsy.

When speaking to a breeder, ask for specific answers:

- What are both parents' test results for MLS and Lafora? If one parent is a carrier, the other should be genetically clear under the breed's breeding strategy.
- Is there epilepsy, meningitis, back disease, a thyroid disorder or another recurring problem among close relatives?
- How have the parents' temperament and hunting ability been assessed?
- Which current recommendations and registration rules has the breeder followed for this particular mating?

Hip dysplasia occurs at a low frequency, but the Beagle has no breed-specific requirement for official hip status in the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules. Ask what the breeder has actually investigated and why instead of assuming that one generic testing list applies. Rules and recommendations can change from year to year.

Weight is an important everyday consideration. Measure food, include training rewards in the daily allowance and monitor the dog's body condition over time. Adjust the ration to age, work and activity level, and seek veterinary advice if weight rises or the dog needs an individual plan. Keep food, medicines and bins out of reach too; a food-loving Beagle can be both quick and inventive.

## History & Origins

The Beagle developed in Great Britain as a small driving hound for hunting on foot, particularly hare. The breed name has been documented since the fifteenth century, but the recognisable modern type was not established until the 1870s. In the British tradition, several Beagles worked together in a pack while the hunters followed on foot.

The first known Beagles in Sweden were shown in Gothenburg in 1891. Swedish breed development gathered pace when Svenska Beagleklubben, the national breed club, was founded in 1953. The work was adapted to the Nordic hunting tradition: instead of hunting in a pack, a Beagle normally works alone to search for, raise and drive game while giving voice.

That history is easy to recognise in today's dog. The nose close to the ground, endurance, independence and voice are not minor quirks separate from its role as a family companion. They are central to how the breed works and need a reasonable outlet even in a home where the dog does not hunt.

## Living with the Breed

The Beagle is best suited to a home that appreciates an active, sociable, scent-led dog and can plan for safety and noise. The daily routine matters more than the size of the home. Living in a flat can work if the dog receives suitable activity, can settle indoors and does not disturb the neighbours. In a building with poor sound insulation, be prepared for the breed's voice to become a problem.

A garden does not replace walks or purposeful work, and fencing must be secure. Away from an enclosed area, a well-fitting harness and long line are often more useful than hoping for perfect recall. Food and bins need to be stored where the dog cannot reach them.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, beginning with very short periods and taking account of the dog's age and response. Guidance from the Swedish Board of Agriculture says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often if they are puppies or older dogs. This is guidance about outings, not a statement that a particular dog can cope alone for that long. A Beagle that becomes anxious, howls or cannot settle needs smaller steps, more company and a routine better suited to that individual.

Cats can live in the same home, but introductions should be slow and controlled. The cat needs dog-free spaces and clear escape routes, and the dog must never be allowed to rehearse chasing it. Take particular care with rabbits, rodents and birds: the breed's hunting background means safe coexistence cannot be assumed.

Choose a Beagle if you want scent work to be part of daily life and enjoy an independent, enduring dog that makes itself heard. Choose another breed if you want a quiet dog that is easy to trust off the lead, is content with short walks or must routinely spend long working days alone.

Beagle

The Beagle Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Beagle is a small, sturdy scent hound with a short, shedding coat and a famous baying voice. Cheerful and curious, it’s usually friendly with children and other dogs. It needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, secure fencing, and weight control, but grooming is simple.

Vi på Xlnt föder upp Beagle i Löberöd och använder även namnformen XLNT Kennel. Vårt kennelnamn deltog i en uppfödarklass inom rasen i Gimo 2025. Det daterade sammanhanget ger en mer konkret bild av vår uppfödning än namn och ort ensamma.

Xlnt

## Quick Facts

The American Staffordshire Terrier, often called the Amstaff, is an American terrier in FCI Group 3. Compact and exceptionally strong, it is now primarily kept as a companion. The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys active training and is prepared to take responsibility for a powerful dog in everyday situations.

- The desired height at the withers is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females.
- The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 28–33 kg for males and 19–25 kg for females, but healthy body condition and balanced proportions matter more than a single figure.
- The coat is short, close, stiff and glossy, and is generally easy to maintain.
- The breed ideal is an alert, courageous and interested dog. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes the Amstaff as sociable, active and willing to cooperate, although individuals can differ considerably.
- Anyone planning to travel with the dog must check the route in advance: the American Staffordshire Terrier is subject to breed bans in both Norway and Denmark.

The American Staffordshire Terrier is a recognised breed with its own standard. A broad skull, short coat and muscular body are therefore not enough to identify a dog as an Amstaff. For a prospective puppy owner, a registered pedigree and information about the parents are much more useful than assumptions based on appearance.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Staffordshire Terrier should be strong for its size, muscular and compact, yet still agile and mobile. Its build should look balanced rather than so heavy or exaggerated that movement is affected. The desired height is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females. The standard requires height and weight to be in proportion but gives no weight range. The Swedish Kennel Club's figures are therefore a practical approximation, not a target weight that every dog should reach.

The coat lies close to the body and is short, stiff and glossy. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt will often remove loose hair, while bathing can be reserved for when it is genuinely needed. Calmly accustom a puppy to having its paws, nails, ears, mouth and skin checked. This makes both routine care and future veterinary examinations easier.

Solid, parti-colour and patched coats are permitted. All-white coats, coats that are more than 80 per cent white, black and tan, and liver are not encouraged under the standard. Colour does not reliably predict temperament or health. Redness, itching, persistent paw licking or changes in the ears should be assessed as symptoms, not attributed to coat colour.

## Temperament & Personality

An American Staffordshire Terrier should be alert, curious and courageous, but breed descriptions express an ideal and population averages, not the temperament of every dog. The Swedish Kennel Club's behavioural assessment data show relatively high sociability and energy at breed level, alongside substantial variation between individuals. Upbringing, experience and training matter, but the behaviour of close relatives is also relevant when choosing a puppy.

Ask the breeder to explain the parents' BPH behavioural assessments and, where available, their mental index using specific everyday examples. Find out how they respond to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces, handling and other dogs. Ideally, meet the dam and other close relatives. The label ‘sociable’ reveals far less than a description of how a dog recovers after an unexpected event.

This is a physically powerful breed that can be forceful. Calm, managed encounters are therefore more valuable than expecting the dog to greet everyone. Neither breed nor sex can determine whether an Amstaff will live safely with a particular dog, cat or small animal. Assess the individual dog's previous experience, interest in chasing or play, and ability to disengage and settle.

When introducing a cat, make sure the cat has protected spaces and can leave at any time. Use a gate or another secure barrier, keep early sessions short and calm, and prevent chasing from the outset. Do not leave the animals alone together until their behaviour is well understood, and accept that some pairings will never be safe.

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a family with children, but an adult must always take responsibility for their interactions. Children should leave the dog undisturbed while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a protected space of its own. Because of the breed's strength, children should not handle the dog alone in situations where a sudden lunge or encounter with another dog may be difficult to control.

## Training & Exercise

The American Staffordshire Terrier needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no single number of hours that suits every dog. A young dog, a fit adult and a dog with pain or joint disease require different plans. Adjust the level to age, health, recovery and how the dog behaves at home after exercise. The aim is a well-conditioned dog that can switch between activity and rest, not a dog exhausted at any cost.

Walks can be combined with scent work, tracking, obedience and short problem-solving activities. The Swedish Kennel Club highlights nosework, tracking and obedience as suitable pursuits. Increase duration and load gradually, and keep the dog at a healthy body condition. If the dog suddenly moves differently, hesitates before jumping into the car or recovers more slowly, ask a vet to investigate the cause. Do not try to solve the change by adding more exercise.

Everyday training should begin early and use rewards, clear routines and manageable steps. The following skills are particularly useful for a strong American Staffordshire Terrier:

- walking on a loose lead and turning away from an approaching dog;
- a well-rehearsed recall and a cue to leave an object or situation;
- calm greetings without jumping or pulling;
- waiting and settling calmly behind a gate or other barrier;
- relaxed handling of paws, nails, ears, mouth and body.

Training that relies on pain, fear or harsh corrections can damage both trust and learning. Reward the behaviour you want, make an exercise easier when the dog struggles, and seek help from a knowledgeable trainer early if the dog's strength or reactions become difficult to manage.

## Health

Hips, elbows, skin and cruciate ligaments are important areas to ask about in the American Staffordshire Terrier. The Swedish Kennel Club identifies hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cruciate ligament problems and skin conditions involving itching, rashes, red paws and allergy. This does not mean every dog will be affected. Ask for specific information about parents, siblings and previous litters rather than accepting a general claim of ‘healthy lines’.

For Swedish-registered breeding, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; American Staffordshire Terriers must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. A recorded result only means that the assessment exists, not that the joint is necessarily unaffected, so check the actual grades. The breed club's breeding strategy also recommends that a proposed litter's preliminary hip and elbow indices exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with the registration rules.

NCL-A is an inherited neurological disorder that affects the cerebellum and can cause balance and coordination problems, often first appearing between three and five years of age. It is inherited as an autosomal recessive condition with incomplete penetrance. DNA results are recorded as normal, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding. Ask to see the registered results and understand how the proposed pairing has been planned.

When assessing a litter, check:

- the parents' exact hip and elbow results and the litter's preliminary indices;
- NCL-A status and how the results affect the proposed mating;
- BPH assessments and mental index where available, supported by examples of close relatives' everyday behaviour;
- skin disease, cruciate injuries and other recurring problems among parents, siblings and earlier offspring.

## History & Origins

The American Staffordshire Terrier developed in the United States from bull-and-terrier dogs brought by immigrants during the nineteenth century. The American parent club records dogs of this type in the country by about 1870. The history includes a background in dog fighting, but the modern breed's official standard and breeding should be judged against today's expectations for function, health and temperament.

In 1936, the American Kennel Club admitted the dogs to its Stud Book as Staffordshire Terriers. The name changed to American Staffordshire Terrier on 1 January 1972 to distinguish the breed from the newly recognised Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The first American Staffordshire Terrier was registered with the Swedish Kennel Club in 1991.

These dates explain the changes in name, but they do not make every similar-looking dog the same breed. For today's puppy buyer, a verifiable pedigree, documented health information and knowledge of close relatives are more valuable than loose labels such as ‘pit bull type’.

## Living with the Breed

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough activity, recovery time and a secure routine. The size of the home matters less than how daily life is organised. In a block of flats, the owner must be able to manage the dog safely in corridors, lifts and confined spaces, prevent nuisance noise and arrange walks without every outing being dominated by difficult encounters with other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a settled adult should, after careful training, be left for only a few hours at a time. The Swedish rule that dogs must normally be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a recommended duration for leaving a dog alone. Plan for the puppy stage, working days and backup care before the dog arrives.

Think about physical control as well. A harness or collar must fit securely, the lead should provide a reliable grip, and the person walking the dog must be able to hold it if something unexpected happens. This is not an argument for harsh methods; it is a practical consequence of the breed's strength. Planning ahead, creating distance and teaching alternative behaviours prevent more problems than corrections delivered too late.

Travel requires particular care. American Staffordshire Terriers and their crosses are prohibited in Norway, including import into the country. Denmark also prohibits the breed and its crosses from being brought in for a stay. Denmark has a limited exception for direct transit by car without unnecessary stops, but this does not permit a holiday in the country, and rail travel is not covered by the exception. Rules can change, so always check current guidance from Norway's Mattilsynet and the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration before booking a journey or choosing a route.

The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys structured training, can provide daily activity and has the capacity to manage a dog that is both sociable and physically demanding. If a household cannot make time for separation training, safe introductions, lead training and careful health follow-up, a less powerful or less demanding breed is often a better choice.

American Staffordshire Terrier

American Staffordshire Terrier: muscular, medium-sized, people-focused dog with a short, easy-care coat in many colors. Affectionate, energetic, and highly trainable with consistent, positive handling. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, socialization, and responsible management.

Ruscles

Mosselinas Lucky

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Ulvgårdens

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Swedish Kennel Club

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Frukostklubbens

## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Tezla Stars

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Vi på Flower village föder upp Chihuahua i Hallstahammar och har gjort det sedan 2014. Sedan 2018 föder vi även upp Golden retriever. De två startåren visar hur vår rasinriktning breddades, medan Chihuahua förblir huvudrasen i den här profilen.

Flower village

Vita Nattens

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Kaseths Inu’s

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Xoloitzcuintle is a Mexican primitive-type dog that comes in three sizes and in both hairless and coated varieties. The two coat types belong to the same breed and should share the same basic build and temperament. Their main differences are the coat and dentition.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Miniature:** 25–35 cm at the withers
- **Intermediate:** 36–45 cm at the withers
- **Standard:** 46–60 cm at the withers; for show judging, the breed standard allows up to 62 cm for particularly fine specimens
- **Coat types:** hairless or fully covered in a short coat
- **Use:** chiefly a companion dog; the intermediate and standard sizes also have a background as watchdogs
- **Typical traits:** calm, alert, intelligent and sometimes reserved with strangers

In Sweden, a puppy is initially registered as the size variety that corresponds to its larger parent. Its definitive size is established by measurement at a show after 15 months of age. It is therefore worth asking the breeder how large close relatives have become, rather than looking only at the size shown on the puppy’s first registration.

## Appearance & Coat

The Xoloitzcuintle should be lean, strong and harmonious without appearing either slight or heavy. The body is a little longer than the height at the withers, in an approximate ratio of 10:9. Long legs, a roomy ribcage and a slender tail give the breed a clean, athletic outline. The ears are large and held erect when the dog is attentive. At rest, the tail hangs with a slight curve; in motion it may be carried in a curve, but should not be tightly curled over the back.

The hairless variety has no, or almost no, hair on the body. A small amount of short, coarse hair may be present on the head and back of the neck, as well as on the feet and tip of the tail. The skin should be smooth and soft. It often feels warmer than a coated dog’s skin because heat is released directly, but its body temperature is the same as that of other dogs.

The coated variety has a short, close and smooth coat over the whole body, normally without an undercoat. The hair may be sparser on the belly and the inside of the hind legs. Its coat is generally easy to care for, although the skin, ears, nails and teeth still need checking in a coated dog.

Dark, uniform colours are preferred in the breed standard, but the range includes black, various shades of grey, reddish, liver, bronze and blond. Spotted dogs also occur. Appearance can therefore vary considerably between individuals and between the hairless and coated varieties.

Dentition is an important difference between the coat types. Many hairless dogs lack some teeth or have rotated teeth because the hairless trait is closely linked to dental development. This is a recognised feature of the variety and need not be a sign of poor care. The coated variety, by contrast, should have complete, normally developed dentition. Both need regular checks of the mouth and teeth based on their individual dental status.

## Temperament & Personality

The Xoloitzcuintle is described as calm, cheerful, attentive and intelligent, but often has a distinct sense of independence. It can be deeply attached to its family without automatically seeking contact with everyone it meets. Reserve with strangers is consistent with the breed ideal; extreme fear or aggression is not.

That distinction matters in everyday life. A confident but reserved dog may wait and then accept a visitor without wanting to greet them. A dog that freezes, panics or threatens needs more distance and a carefully planned training approach. Do not force contact in an attempt to make the dog ‘sociable’. Allow it to observe from a comfortable distance and reward calm choices instead.

The intermediate and standard varieties have traditionally been used as watchdogs. This may show as attentiveness to sounds, movement and visitors. The breed should not, however, bark without good reason or seek confrontation. How much an individual dog alerts is influenced by inheritance, its environment and the consequences the behaviour has at home.

There is considerable variation within the breed in sociability, activity and independence. If possible, meet the puppy’s parents or other adult relatives. Notice how they recover after a surprise, accept handling and behave when an unfamiliar person enters. This is more informative than a broad label such as ‘calm family dog’.

## Training & Exercise

The Xoloitzcuintle needs physical activity every day as well as tasks that engage its nose and mind, but there is no credible number of minutes that suits all three sizes and every individual. A good routine combines walks, free movement in safe places, scent work, short training sessions and rest. Adjust the workload to the dog’s age, size, health, the weather and its ability to settle.

The breed may enjoy activities such as obedience, agility, balance exercises, tracking and search games. The aim is not to fill every day with high-intensity activity, but to let the dog use its body and make decisions at an appropriate level of difficulty. A dog that gets a great deal of exercise but never practises calm behaviour may still struggle to switch off.

Training is most effective when it is reward-based, clear and broken into manageable steps. Independence and reserve can make harsh corrections particularly damaging to trust. Reward the behaviour you want and increase the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable. Start early with recall, loose-lead walking and attention, releasing objects and settling in a designated place.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The goal is for it to remain comfortable among different people, dogs, sounds and surfaces. Give it a chance to watch, choose its distance and recover. Gradually accustom it to having its skin, feet, ears and mouth handled as well. This makes routine care and veterinary visits less stressful later in life.

## Health

Skin and dental care are the most distinctive health considerations in a Xoloitzcuintle, but they differ between the hairless and coated varieties. A hairless dog’s dentition may be incomplete as a result of the hairless trait. Ask the breeder to show you the puppy’s teeth and those of its parents, and ask your vet to monitor the individual dog’s oral health. The fact that missing teeth are permitted by the breed standard does not mean the teeth that are present can be left without care.

Bare skin lacks the natural protection of a coat. Young dogs may develop pimples or blackheads for a time, and skin quality varies between individuals. Persistent itching, pain, sores, discharge, an unpleasant smell or recurring inflammation should not, however, be dismissed as ‘normal for the breed’. In those circumstances, the dog needs a veterinary examination. Avoid harsh cleansers and fixed bathing or moisturising routines that are not suited to the individual dog’s skin.

Older Swedish breed documents describe skin problems of varying severity and isolated findings of hip, elbow and kneecap disorders. Much of the evidence comes from dogs and examinations during the first decade of the 2000s, so it does not show how common any condition is today. Reviewing current information about the parents and close relatives is therefore more useful than relying on a general list of diseases.

Ask the breeder:

- which skin, dental and other health problems have occurred in the line
- which veterinary examinations the parents have had and why those particular checks were chosen
- whether close relatives have had musculoskeletal problems, allergy-like signs, hearing problems or recurring skin inflammation
- how the breeder follows the puppies’ health as they mature

A responsible breeder can discuss both the strengths and the uncertainties in their breeding programme, rather than simply describing the breed as healthy.

## History & Origins

The Xoloitzcuintle has very old roots in Mexico and a distinct place in the country’s pre-Hispanic cultural history. The breed’s name is associated with Xolotl and the Nahuatl word for dog. Historical and archaeological sources connect the dog with religious ceremonies and the belief that it could guide the souls of the dead to their final resting place.

Not every old depiction of a hairless dog or written reference is secure evidence of the modern breed, however. It is therefore more accurate to speak of an ancient Mexican canine heritage than to assign the breed a precise age of several thousand years. Claims of healing powers belong to historical belief, not veterinary fact.

Modern organised breeding was developed by the Mexican kennel organisation, which has used the Xoloitzcuintle in its logo since 1940. The breed arrived in Sweden in 1983 and was then registered under the name Mexican Hairless Dog. Sweden has used the original name, Xoloitzcuintle, since 2016.

The coated variety has sometimes been overshadowed by the hairless one, but it is an official part of the breed. Current Swedish judging guidance states that coated and hairless dogs should be valued equally according to the requirements for their respective coat types.

## Living with the Breed

A Xoloitzcuintle can thrive in many types of home if daily life meets the individual dog’s need for companionship, activity, careful introductions and protection from the weather. Living in a flat is not an obstacle in itself. What matters more is that the dog gets outside regularly, can settle indoors and is trained so that vigilance does not turn into disruptive barking where sound carries easily between homes.

The hairless variety needs more help in strong sun, cold, rain and wind than a dog with a protective coat. Adjust time outdoors to the temperature, sunlight, wind, skin colour and individual dog. Shade and clothing can provide a physical barrier, while skin products should be chosen for the individual, preferably with veterinary advice. Clothing should fit comfortably and not cause rubbing or new skin problems. The coated variety has better natural protection but normally lacks an undercoat, so its needs should also be judged according to the weather and activity.

The same basic rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult should be present and the dog should have a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The miniature variety needs protection from being dropped, carried incorrectly or involved in rough play. A larger dog may instead knock over a small child by accident. Breed alone cannot replace calm introductions and adult supervision.

Living with dogs, cats and small animals depends on the individual dog’s experience and behaviour. A Xoloitzcuintle raised with a cat may live very well with it, but that does not guarantee the same dog’s response to a running cat outdoors. Keep early meetings controlled, give the animals separate resources and stop before tension builds. Ask the breeder how dogs in the particular line tend to behave with other animals.

Time alone needs to be trained gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and is settled, and extend them only when it can remain relaxed. Some individuals learn quickly, while others need much more time and support. Plan daily life so the dog is not routinely left for longer than it can cope with without stress.

Hairlessness does not make the breed allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in the skin and saliva, among other sources, and people may react differently even to dogs from the same litter. Anyone with an allergy should therefore investigate their own situation and spend time with the individual dog indoors on several occasions before making a decision.

The breed is best suited to someone who appreciates an intelligent dog with integrity and is prepared to invest time in confident socialisation, varied activity and individual care. Someone mainly looking for a ‘low-maintenance’ dog because of the bare skin risks underestimating both skin care and training needs.

Xoloitzcuintle

Ancient Mexican breed linked to Aztec culture, the Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless or short‑coated dog in three sizes. Calm, loyal, and watchful, it bonds closely with family and excels as a gentle companion and alert watchdog, needing skin care, socialization, and moderate exercise.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Skogsälvan

## Quick Facts

The Basset Artésien Normand is a short-legged French scent hound for someone who genuinely intends to hunt with their dog. In Sweden, the breed is used on deer, roe deer, hare and fox, and occasionally rabbit. It follows a trail carefully, drives game at a measured but purposeful pace and uses its voice while working. The Swedish Kennel Club stresses that the breed is not suitable solely as a companion.

- **Purpose:** slow-driving scent hound and tracking dog
- **Breed group:** Group 6, scent hounds and related breeds
- **Origin:** France
- **Size:** 30–36 cm at the withers and usually 15–20 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close-fitting; tricolour or bicolour
- **Temperament:** outgoing, cheerful and very affectionate, yet independent when searching
- **Most important consideration:** an interest in hunting, safe handling away from the hunt and a willingness to enter working trials matter more than the size of the home

The breed can be a close family member alongside its hunting work, but family life does not replace the job it was bred to do. The clearest question before buying one is therefore not whether the dog looks conveniently small, but whether everyday life will include the hunting and training the breed needs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Basset Artésien Normand is low to the ground but not slight: its body is robust, balanced and long in relation to its height. The breed standard gives an approximate ratio of five parts height at the withers to eight parts body length. The chest should be oval and long, with a sternum extending well back. Despite the short legs, the construction must allow free, even movement.

The forelegs are short, strong and half-crooked, or slightly less bent. The curve is part of breed type, but it must not become an exaggeration that compromises contact with the ground. The feet should stand firmly with good support, and movement should be even, fairly effortless and steady. For a working hound, this matters more than an excessively heavy body or an extremely low front.

The head has low-set, fine and very long ears. The nostrils should be well open. The short coat lies close and is either fawn and white with a black mantle, or fawn and white. It needs little work, and the dog is bathed when necessary. Keep an eye on the ears because ear problems are documented in the breed. Recurring problems should be assessed by a vet, and care should be tailored to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The Basset Artésien Normand should be outgoing and very affectionate. It generally wants to be close to its family and works with the hunter, but that partnership does not mean waiting for an instruction at every step. When searching, the hound needs to make its own decisions, follow scent and work with stamina.

This makes the breed both sociable and independent. Affection at home does not make the hunting drive disappear outdoors, and independence does not mean the dog is impossible to train. A good handler develops engagement and clear habits without trying to remove the quality for which the hound was bred.

Claims that the breed is always good with children, always accepts cats or automatically gets on with every dog are too definite. Individuals, previous experiences and introductions all matter. The breed's characteristically friendly nature is a good starting point, but every relationship still needs to be built and monitored.

## Training & Exercise

The Basset Artésien Normand needs hunting work, not simply a set daily walk length. When driving game, the hound uses its nose independently, moves through dense cover and follows persistently without going fast. In Sweden, the breed works on deer, roe deer, hare and fox, among other quarry. The international standard also describes rabbit as typical quarry.

Working trials provide a practical way to assess driving work, cooperation and other qualities needed in breeding. A prospective owner should therefore ask how the parents work, what trial results they have and what help the breeder offers with introducing the young hound to hunting and entering trials. Tracking exercises and other scent work can complement training, but they should not be used to justify buying the breed without a plan for its main job.

Everyday training works best with rewards, short clear exercises and consistent routines. Prioritise engagement, walking on a lead, a stop cue and recall from an early age. A well-trained recall reduces risk but does not cancel the hunting instinct of a driving hound. Away from controlled hunting, off-lead freedom should therefore be supervised and limited to secure surroundings; a lead or long line is often the responsible choice where game may appear.

Exercise should reflect the dog's age, fitness, terrain and workload. No single number of minutes suits every individual. Instead, consider whether the dog maintains a healthy weight, moves freely, recovers normally and can settle at home.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as having few health problems, while also identifying ear and throat conditions and hunting-associated pulmonary oedema. The evidence is limited, and older figures should not be read as current prevalence. A 2011 breed-club survey received information on 198 of 542 dogs, a response rate of 37 per cent. Ear inflammation, throat infection and signs consistent with pulmonary oedema were each reported for 4 per cent. This is a historical sample, not a current measure of risk for an individual puppy.

Hunting-associated pulmonary oedema is the most important acute condition to watch for in a working hound. Abnormal breathing or fatigue clearly greater than expected during or after hunting must be taken seriously: stop the work and have the dog assessed promptly by a vet. Heritability research often quoted in this context concerns the Drever and cannot simply be transferred to the Basset Artésien Normand. No reliable current prevalence or heritability has been established for this breed.

The older breeding strategy also describes so-called basset lameness, or premature closure of a growth plate. In this condition, the radius continues to grow while growth of the ulna stops, which can cause foreleg lameness. Cases had been reported, but their number was unknown. Lameness in a growing dog should therefore be examined by a vet rather than dismissed as a normal consequence of curved forelegs.

The breed is not individually highlighted in the Swedish Kennel Club's current judging guidance on conformation exaggerations. Its general text for basset breeds nevertheless emphasises a sound front, paw pads with proper ground contact and a well-formed chest. When meeting the parents, watch them move and ask how the breeder follows up lameness, chest construction, ear and throat problems, and hunting oedema in the line.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules require no health examination specifically for this breed when litters are registered. That does not mean health questions can be skipped. Ask for specific information about the parents and close relatives, how the dogs have recovered after hunting and any veterinary diagnoses, rather than accepting only that “the breed is usually healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Basset Artésien Normand was developed in France as a short-legged, short-coated hunting hound. Controlled breeding of short-coated French basset types gathered pace around 1870. Count Le Couteulx de Canteleu shaped a more utilitarian Artois type with straighter forelegs, while Louis Lane developed a Normand type with a more crooked front.

The name Basset Artésien Normand was adopted in 1924. The breed's low construction allowed it to work in dense cover that was harder for larger hounds to enter, while its moderate pace allowed the hunter to follow the work. The first Swedish litter was born in 1966, and Swedish breeding has since maintained a clear focus on the breed's function as a driving hound.

## Living with the Breed

The Basset Artésien Normand is best suited to an active hunter who also wants an affectionate dog at home. It can take part in everyday family life, but a prospective owner needs to accept three things from the outset: hunting drive is central, the voice is powerful, and safety away from hunting requires planning.

The type of home matters less than opportunities to work, spend time outdoors and be managed safely. A powerful hunting voice does not mean every individual is noisy indoors, but sound levels are relevant when living close to neighbours. Time alone must be introduced gradually, beginning with brief, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage.

In a family with children, an adult should be present and teach both children and dog to respect rest, food and body language. The breed's very long ears must not be pulled. Living with other dogs or cats should be assessed individually and developed through calm, controlled introductions. Outdoors, the owner must expect scent and movement to awaken hunting interest even in a dog that is friendly with the family's animals.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Do I have a genuine plan for hunting, starting the young hound and preferably entering working trials?
- Can I let the dog move freely in a safe way without relying blindly on recall?
- Has the breeder openly described working results, movement and health in close relatives?
- Can I respond quickly to abnormal breathing, unusual fatigue or lameness?
- Does a powerful voice and an independent scent hound fit my everyday life?

If the answers are yes, the Basset Artésien Normand can combine careful hunting work with a strong bond at home. If hunting is absent, choose another breed.

Basset Artésien Normand

The Basset Hound Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Medium French scent hound with short legs, long sturdy body and gentle, noble expression. Affectionate, calm at home and sociable with dogs, but driven by scent outdoors. Needs moderate exercise, positive training, secure fencing and regular care for ears, weight, back and joints.

Nybbanlyckans

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a British cattle-herding and companion breed. It is low to the ground but much more solidly built, powerful and work-focused than its short legs might suggest. It is best suited to someone who wants to train, walk and solve problems with their dog every day.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives 30 cm at the withers as the ideal height. It does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be in proportion to the dog’s size and overall balance.
- **Build:** Long and strong, with short legs, good ground clearance and a long, fox-like tail.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is alert, active, intelligent and steady, neither shy nor aggressive.
- **Activity:** Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation are essential. A fixed number of exercise minutes will not suit every individual.
- **Coat:** A short to medium-length, weather-resistant double coat with an undercoat. Expect shedding and regular brushing.
- **Important when buying a puppy:** Ask to see the parents’ actual hip dysplasia results, and ask about eye examinations, rcd3-PRA and any merle colouring.

The Cardigan and the Welsh Corgi Pembroke are two separate breeds. Do not choose a dog solely because it is called a ‘corgi’ or resembles a short-legged dog in a photograph. Compare the breeds’ everyday needs, meet adult dogs and form your own impression of the breeder’s dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan should be sturdy, mobile and capable of endurance: low-set, but not so low that the body lacks ground clearance. The body is fairly long and strong, with substantial bone and large, erect ears that are slightly rounded at the tips. The moderately long tail reaches to, or nearly to, the ground. It may lift when the dog is moving but should not curl over the back. This long, fox-like tail is a clear feature of the Cardigan standard.

Accepted colours are blue merle, brindle, red, sable, tricolour with brindle points and tricolour with red points. Typical white markings are permitted, but white should not predominate on the body or head and should not surround the eyes. Under the standard, blue or blue-flecked eyes are permitted only in blue merles.

The coat consists of a coarse, preferably straight outer coat and a protective undercoat. Brush through the entire coat regularly and more often when a large amount of undercoat is coming loose. Check that loose undercoat is not becoming packed behind the ears, on the backs of the thighs or around the tail. The timing and amount of shedding vary between dogs; plan for more loose hair at certain times rather than relying on a fixed calendar. Gently accustom the puppy to brushing, nail trimming and other handling from the outset.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Welsh Corgi Cardigan is alert, active, intelligent and steady. That is a useful starting point, but it does not guarantee how every dog will develop. Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results show variation within the breed, while upbringing, experience and individuality affect qualities such as sociability, fearfulness, interest in play and the ability to settle.

Its background as a farm and cattle dog may show in close attention to movement, a desire to monitor its surroundings and a tendency to bark. Some young dogs may also try to control running people or animals and nip towards their legs. These are possible behaviours to anticipate and address through training, not something every Cardigan will do. Interrupt calmly, reward an alternative behaviour and offer structured activities in which the dog can use its nose, body and mind.

Ask the breeder how the parents behave with visitors, in unfamiliar environments and after activity. Meet them where possible. A dog that becomes excited quickly but struggles to settle can be demanding even if it learns readily. In many homes, the ability to switch between activity and rest is at least as important as enthusiasm for training.

## Training & Exercise

A Cardigan needs physical activity and opportunities to think every day, but there is no credible rule in minutes that suits them all. Age, health, fitness and personality determine the right amount. A sound routine combines walks in varied environments with scent work, short training sessions, play and time to recover.

The breed often enjoys tasks that involve working with its owner and making small choices. Tracking, search games, everyday obedience, rally obedience and controlled body-awareness exercises are examples; a dog does not have to herd to lead a fulfilling life. Increase difficulty and physical demands gradually, particularly in a growing dog, and seek advice from a vet or veterinary physiotherapist if the dog is in pain, lame or moving abnormally. Its conformation is not, in itself, a reason to ban all stairs or jumping, but the environment and activity must suit the individual dog.

Use positive, reward-based training in clear stages. Prioritise engagement, recall, walking with you and calm behaviour around bicycles, running children and other movement that may attract the dog’s attention. If the dog barks at the door or window, help it away from the situation before barking becomes a habit, then reward the behaviour you want. Harsh corrections or attempts to ‘dominate’ the dog are unnecessary and may undermine its sense of security.

## Health

The current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Cardigan as generally healthy. In the eye examination results reviewed for the strategy, no single eye disease stood out. This does not mean that every dog is healthy or that health screening is unimportant. For a puppy buyer, documented results are more valuable than general assurances that a line is ‘problem-free’.

### Hips and musculoskeletal health

Since 2025, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. **A known status means that the result is officially recorded; it does not automatically mean that the hips are free from dysplasia.** Ask for the actual grades and invite the breeder to explain the choice of pairing.

The breed club is also monitoring short ulna, in which the ulna stops growing too early and the foreleg may become increasingly bowed. If a growing dog develops a clear change in leg alignment, an outward-turning paw or lameness, it should be assessed promptly by a vet with orthopaedic experience. Treatment may need to start while the dog is still growing, so do not simply wait to see what happens.

### Eyes, rcd3-PRA and merle

Rcd3-PRA is an early-onset, autosomal recessive form of PRA found in the breed. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected. A carrier will not itself develop this particular form of PRA, but can pass the variant on. The test answers only the question of this genetic variant. An eye examination can instead detect clinical eye changes but cannot identify unaffected carriers, so the two forms of screening do not replace each other.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but the merle variant must not be inherited from both parents because the offspring would then be at risk of serious hearing and eye defects. When buying a merle puppy, the breeder should be able to explain the parents’ colours and how the mating complies with Swedish Kennel Club rules.

Keep the dog in an appropriate body condition as well. A defined waist should be visible behind the ribs, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Monitor changes over time instead of pursuing a single standard weight.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan developed in Wales as a farm and cattle dog. It worked closely with the people on the farm and helped to move and manage cattle. This historical function explains the combination of low height, mobility, endurance and close attention to its surroundings.

The breed’s exact age and the dogs from which it descends have not been conclusively established. Older accounts link it to very early Welsh dogs, Celts or Vikings, but these theories should not be treated as a certain lineage. The Swedish Kennel Club states that Cardigans and Pembrokes were interbred until 1934, when they were separated and recognised as two distinct breeds. The first Welsh Corgi Cardigan registered in Sweden arrived in 1963.

The FCI now classifies the breed as a cattle-herding and companion dog. Many live solely as family companions, but their active, work-focused heritage remains relevant when deciding whether everyday life with the breed will be a good fit.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan can live in a flat, but its low height does not automatically make it easy to keep in a small home. It needs daily activity, opportunities to settle and training around sounds in communal hallways and outside windows. A house and garden are no substitute for walks, shared activities and new environments.

Being left alone is not a fixed breed trait. Start with very short periods once the dog feels secure and increase the time gradually; take a step back if it shows signs of distress. Plan around the individual and do not expect a young puppy to cope with being left alone.

The breed can live happily in a family with children, but no breed is automatically safe with children. An adult should always be present when a dog and young children interact, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Teach both children and dog calm boundaries, particularly when play and running may prompt the dog to follow or control movement.

The same individual approach applies to other dogs and cats. Previous experience and a controlled introduction matter more than the breed name. When introducing a cat, provide it with a dog-free retreat, keep meetings calm and prevent chasing from the very beginning.

Before buying, it is sensible to check:

- the parents’ official hip grades, not merely that they have been X-rayed;
- the date and result of eye examinations, as well as rcd3-PRA status;
- how any merle pairing was planned;
- how close relatives respond to sounds, people and dogs, and how well they settle after activity;
- whether you want a daily life that includes shedding, training and daily activity throughout the dog’s lifetime.

This is not the right breed for someone choosing solely for its compact size. A Cardigan is an active, intelligent cattle dog on short legs and needs an owner with both the time and interest to provide a well-planned daily routine.

Welsh Corgi Cardigan

Welsh Corgi League (UK)

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a sturdy, long-backed herding dog with a foxlike head and long tail. Energetic and agile despite short legs, it is loyal, watchful and often reserved with strangers. It has a weather-resistant double coat in many colours and needs regular exercise and grooming.

Kalaallit, Welsh corgi cardigan och Ånimskog kopplas ihop i Get a Pets profil och på kennelns egen webbplats. Om oss-sidan placerar verksamheten i Ånimskog i Dalsland, strax söder om Åmål. Där framgår också att Kennel Kalaallit startades i Norge, att namnet följde med till Sverige och att webbplatsen beskriver både Grönlandshund och Welsh Corgi Cardigan.

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