## Quick Facts

The Petit Brabançon is a small Belgian companion dog that tends to be alert, affectionate and keen to be involved in whatever is happening. It belongs to FCI Group 9 and is the smooth-coated member of the three closely related Belgian griffon breeds. The other two are the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois.

- **Country of origin:** Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog
- **Weight in the breed standard:** 3.5–6 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard does not specify a height
- **Coat:** short, harsh and glossy; no more than 2 cm long
- **Colours:** red, black, black and tan, or a mixture of black and red, with a dark mask
- **Typical traits:** attentive, active, trainable, friendly and close to its owner
- **Key health areas:** breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of neurological pain

The three griffon breeds share the same background and, according to the Swedish Kennel Club, may be mated to one another. The Petit Brabançon is distinguished chiefly by its smooth coat, while the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois are rough-coated. The breeds are registered separately.

The official weight is a more reliable guide than the height figures commonly found online. The breed standard gives a weight of 3.5–6 kg but no range for height at the withers. Two adult dogs can therefore differ in height while both remaining entirely typical of the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Petit Brabançon should be small, compact and almost square, with good bone but without heavy movement. Its body length should be approximately equal to its height at the withers. The short, broad head, pronounced undershot bite and large, dark eyes create the breed's characteristic expression.

Breed type should not be confused with exaggeration. The nostrils should be well open, the eyes large but never protruding, and the lower jaw broad. Neither the tongue nor teeth should show when the mouth is closed. When assessing a dog, give priority to free breathing, open nostrils and healthy eyes rather than the flattest possible face.

The coat is harsh, glossy and no more than 2 cm long. It does not require trimming. Brush and bathe as needed, for example when loose hair or dirt needs removing.

Accepted colours are red, black, black and tan, and a mixture of black and red. A dark mask is part of the desired appearance; in older dogs, the mask may be grey or grey-flecked.

The short coat makes grooming straightforward, but it does not make the breed allergy-free. There are no allergy-free dog breeds, and allergen levels vary between individual dogs, even within the same litter. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore assess their reaction to the particular dog rather than choosing on coat length alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Petit Brabançon is fundamentally an attentive companion that likes to take part in family life. The breed standard describes the Belgian griffons as intelligent, balanced and alert, while the Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as active, trainable, affectionate and friendly.

That does not mean every individual will react in the same way. Genetics, early environment, socialisation, training and health all influence how confident, sociable and easy-going a dog becomes. An adult dog should be able to settle after activity and meet people without persistent fear or aggression. When visiting a litter, try to meet the dam and ask how close relatives cope with everyday life.

The breed's attentiveness can be useful in focus exercises, everyday obedience and simple scent games. Reward calm behaviour from the outset and provide an undisturbed resting place so the dog learns to switch off.

A Petit Brabançon can suit either an experienced owner or a well-prepared first-time owner, but being small does not make the dog self-sufficient. It needs kind, consistent training, daily care and an owner who takes breathing and eye health seriously. Choose the individual dog and breeder for their fit with your life, not on promises that the breed is always easy.

## Training & Exercise

The Petit Brabançon needs daily movement, mental stimulation and time to recover, but no single walk duration is right for every dog. A healthy individual may enjoy walks, exposure to different environments, play, everyday training and scent work. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, temperature and, above all, how the dog breathes and recovers.

Short, clear training sessions often suit a small, quick-learning companion dog. Reward the behaviour you want, break new skills into manageable steps and increase the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable. Gradually accustom the dog to having its mouth and face examined too; this makes toothbrushing and eye checks easier.

The short muzzle means breathing must determine how hard the dog works. Slow down or stop if breathing noise clearly increases, the dog struggles for air, fails to recover normally or appears unable to regulate its temperature. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or marked breathing difficulty are emergency warning signs that require veterinary care.

Take particular care in hot, humid weather. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, offer water and allow the dog to rest before it becomes distressed. A dog that repeatedly cannot manage an ordinary walk or play because of its breathing needs to be examined; this should not be dismissed as normal for a short-nosed breed.

A puppy should not follow the same exercise plan as an adult. Instead, let its body develop through varied, self-paced movement, brief opportunities to explore and plenty of rest. Increase duration and difficulty gradually, guided by the puppy's movement, breathing and recovery.

## Health

The main health checks for a Petit Brabançon concern breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of pain involving the nervous system. The presence of a problem in the breed does not mean every dog is affected; the individual dog's examination results and physical function are what matter.

The breed is short-nosed, which can increase the risk of BOAS — breathing difficulty caused by narrowed upper airways. The Swedish Kennel Club includes the breed in its specific instructions concerning head shape and breathing. Quiet, unrestricted breathing at rest, well-opened nostrils and normal recovery after movement are therefore useful practical checks. Snoring-like sounds while awake, increased breathing effort, poor stamina or heat intolerance should not be regarded as charming breed traits.

The RFG Scheme is a veterinary examination that assesses breathing before and after a three-minute exercise test. Among other things, the vet examines nostril shape, listens to the heart and lungs, and grades signs of BOAS from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected. Grade 1 denotes mild signs that do not affect performance, while grades 2 and 3 indicate moderate and severe clinical impact respectively.

Since May 2026, RFG results for the Petit Brabançon can be recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. An official result is registered from 24 months of age; an earlier result is marked as preliminary. For the Petit Brabançon, central registration does not currently mean that an RFG test is compulsory before breeding. Rules can change, so always check the current information from the Swedish Kennel Club. A puppy buyer can ask whether the parents have been tested, which grades they received and how they cope with ordinary activity and warm weather.

Kneecap problems and certain eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed's Swedish breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs be examined for patellar luxation before their first mating and have an eye examination within a year before mating. Ask to see registered results rather than accepting a general assurance that the dogs are healthy. Also ask about corneal injuries and other eye problems in close relatives, because the head shape can leave the eyes more exposed.

Syringomyelia occurs in the breed and can cause severe pain, but its prevalence among Swedish dogs is unknown. Frantic scratching, unusual movement or unexplained pain, for example when walking on a lead, can justify a neurological veterinary assessment. These signs can have several causes and should not be used to diagnose the dog at home.

Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, blinks repeatedly, rubs an eye, develops a watery eye or appears to be in pain. Breathing distress, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require emergency help. Early treatment is particularly important when the eyes are large and the muzzle is very short.

## History & Origins

The Petit Brabançon was developed in Belgium from the same stock as the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois. The breed standard traces all three to a small, rough-coated type found around Brussels known as the Smousje. These dogs worked around stables, where they helped control rodents and were said to guard carriages.

During the 1800s, crosses with dogs including the Pug and red King Charles Spaniel shaped the modern griffon type. These crosses contributed the smooth black coat and consolidated the breed type. The first griffons were entered in the Belgian stud book in 1883, and the small dogs later became valued as companions beyond Belgium.

The smooth-coated variety became known as the Petit Brabançon. Today, the three griffons have separate FCI numbers and are distinguished mainly by coat and colour, but their shared origin remains evident in both the breed standard and Swedish breeding practice. Their history explains the relationship; it cannot predict the temperament or health of an individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Petit Brabançon is best suited to someone who wants a small companion that takes an active part in daily life and can adapt routines to the individual dog's breathing, activity level and need for company. It can live well in a flat if it has regular opportunities to toilet, suitable activity, quiet recovery time and training to remain calm around sounds in the hallway and outside the door.

Adult supervision is essential around children. A dog this small should not be picked up, chased or disturbed while eating or resting. Give the dog a safe place of its own and teach the child to wait until the dog chooses to approach. How well the breed lives with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals, their previous experience and the way introductions are handled; the breed name is no guarantee.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure in its home. A young puppy should not be left alone; build up an adult dog's tolerance in small steps without allowing it to become frightened. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is regularly longer than the dog can remain alone without distress.

Oral care is an important part of routine care. Introduce toothbrushing gradually and ask your vet to help determine a suitable frequency. Dental chews may be a supplement, but they do not replace mechanical cleaning.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- How do the parents breathe at rest, during activity and in warm weather?
- Are there registered RFG results, and which grades did the dogs receive?
- When were the kneecaps and eyes last examined, and which results were recorded?
- Have close relatives had recurring corneal injuries, unexplained pain or neurological signs?
- How have the puppies been introduced to people, everyday sounds, handling and rest?
- What support does the breeder provide if questions arise after purchase?

The right dog can become a devoted companion that enjoys training. What matters is not simply that it is small or smooth-coated, but that it breathes freely, has healthy eyes and a stable temperament, and has a daily routine suited to an active companion dog.

Petit Brabançon

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Petit Brabançon: a tiny, sturdy Belgian companion dog with a smooth, glossy coat and large, almost human dark eyes. Loyal, sensitive and intelligent, it bonds closely with its people, suits city living, needs daily mental and physical activity, and prefers homes where it’s rarely left alone.

Liten seriös kennel som föder upp petit griffon brabancon för mer inf besök min hemsida

Rottmores kennel

## Quick Facts

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is a small, lively companion dog that usually wants to stay close to its people. The breed can suit a first-time owner or a family prepared to train regularly, but it is not an effortless choice simply because it is small. The coat needs consistent care, time alone must be introduced gradually, and the individual dog's temperament matters more than broad descriptions of the breed.

- The breed is recognised nationally by the Nordic kennel clubs and is placed in Group 9, but it is not recognised by the FCI.
- The desired maximum height at the withers is 26 cm, and the ideal weight is 3–4 kg.
- The coat is long, dense, and curly or wavy. It often sheds relatively little, but that does not make the breed allergy-free.
- The breed standard calls for an affectionate, lively and cheerful dog. Swedish behavioural evidence is too limited, however, to make firm promises about every individual.
- A puppy buyer should check recorded results for patellae, eyes and prcd-PRA, while also asking how the parents behave in everyday situations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka should be small and compact, with a body that is slightly longer than the height at the withers. Under the standard, body length may be no more than 15 per cent greater than height. The abundant coat can make the dog look rounder than it is, so body condition and structure need to be assessed by touch as well as by sight.

The coat should be long, dense and moderately thick, with large curls or waves. There may be a moderate undercoat, or none at all. All colours are permitted except solid white, spotted or parti-colour, and merle. A very small, barely visible white mark may occur on the chin, throat, forechest or toes. Larger white areas are therefore not part of the accepted colour pattern.

The coat needs to be combed through regularly, right down towards the skin. Long, soft hair tangles most readily where there is friction, including the armpits, groin, behind the ears, and beneath a harness or collar. How often the whole coat needs attention depends on its texture and length and on the dog's routine, but vulnerable areas should be checked frequently and small tangles eased out before they tighten into mats. From the start, teach the puppy to accept a comb, paw handling and short pauses on a non-slip surface.

For presentation under the official show standard, the coat must not be clipped or trimmed, apart from neatening the hair on the feet. Hair on the head may be tied up if it falls in front of the eyes. This rule describes how the breed is presented to the standard. In everyday life, the coat still needs care that prevents discomfort around the skin, eyes and feet.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes an affectionate, lively, cheerful and sociable companion. Many people therefore look for a Bolonka that enjoys taking part in family life and is easy to bring along. That is a reasonable aim, but it is no guarantee that every dog will automatically feel confident with strangers, remain quiet in a flat or find every encounter easy.

Evidence from the Swedish population is limited. The current breed-specific breeding strategy drew on just 20 completed BPH behavioural assessments and 139 responses to a health and behaviour survey, among other material. That is not enough for confident conclusions about the whole breed. In the survey, 18.7 per cent of respondents said they were not satisfied with their dog's behaviour, but this is a survey result rather than a reliable estimate for the population. Its main value is to show why a friendly description of the breed cannot replace an assessment of the prospective litter's parents.

Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, unexpected sounds, handling and other dogs, and how readily they settle after activity. BPH results, where available, can add useful observations, but read the full description rather than searching for a single pass mark. Barking and interest in chasing can vary with both the individual and the environment; there is not enough evidence to promise a particular level across the breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka needs daily movement, mental activity and rest, but there is no sound breed-specific formula expressed in minutes. A balanced routine might include walks in varied surroundings, scent work, play and short training sessions. Adjust the duration and difficulty to the dog's age, fitness and recovery. A dog that struggles to settle may need less excitement and more recovery, while one that loses focus and invents its own entertainment may benefit from more purposeful stimulation.

Use reward-based training, progress in small steps and account for the individual dog's motivation. Start early with the skills that make everyday life easier: attention, recall, waiting at a door, walking calmly on a lead, settling in a chosen place, and accepting coat and paw care. Take the puppy out frequently after sleep, food and play, praise it for toileting outside, and do not punish indoor accidents. Reward calm behaviour before the dog becomes worked up and barks at sounds or visitors, while also reducing environmental triggers that keep the behaviour going.

A small body is no reason to carry the dog through every situation. Allow it to move, explore and solve manageable problems on its own feet. Avoid, however, demands that are not suitable for a young or unconditioned dog. The breed is described as trainable and may enjoy activities such as scent work, rally obedience or other sports based on cooperation between dog and handler.

## Health

There is not enough evidence to give a reliable account of the breed's most common health problems in Sweden. When the current breeding strategy was prepared, there were few dogs in the country, the health survey had 139 responses, and no breed-specific insurance statistics were available. There is therefore no sound basis for presenting a long list of conditions as unusually common in this breed. Puppy buyers will get better evidence by examining recorded tests for the parents and close relatives.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella result. This examination records whether the kneecap is stable or can be displaced during a veterinary assessment. The aim is to mate two dogs with no abnormality. Under the recommendation, a dog graded 1 should only be mated to a dog with no abnormality, while dogs graded 2 or above should not be used for breeding.

For eye health, the recommendation is a clear eye examination no more than one year before mating. The club also recommends a recorded DNA result for prcd-PRA: a carrier should be mated to a genetically clear dog, not to another carrier. A prcd-PRA DNA test answers only for the variant being tested. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye changes, so it cannot replace a clinical eye examination.

These are the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules contain no breed-specific condition that makes these particular results compulsory for registering a litter. The distinction matters: a registered puppy may come from a mating that does not follow every club recommendation. Ask to see the original results or check them in the Swedish Kennel Club's dog database, and ask how the breeder has considered the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The breed was developed as a companion dog in the former Soviet Union. The current standard states that breeding began in 1951, using small dogs of unknown origin. This cautious account is more reliable than detailed stories naming particular foundation breeds without firm documentation.

The first breed standard was approved in 1966. Interest and numbers increased during the 1970s and 1980s, and a national breed club was founded in 1999. The standard was revised in 2010 and 2019. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 2006, and the first Swedish litters were born in 2007. Since 2013, the breed has had national recognition and been eligible for shows within the Nordic kennel organisations, despite still lacking FCI recognition.

## Living with the Breed

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka can live well in a flat if it receives suitable toilet breaks, activity and rest, alongside training to remain calm when it hears sounds in the stairwell or outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the way daily life is organised. Anyone looking for a small dog to fit a sedentary lifestyle should reconsider: the breed's size reduces the space it occupies, not its need for company, movement and learning.

Time alone must be introduced in very small, calm steps. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. Begin when the dog feels secure and has been taken out, step away briefly, and return before it becomes worried. Increase the time only when the dog can rest. Arrange help if the working day requires longer absences than the individual dog can cope with without distress.

Young children need adult supervision around the dog. Such a small dog requires an undisturbed resting place and should not be lifted, carried or pursued by young children. Teach the child to call the dog rather than grabbing it, and allow the dog to walk away. This protects both dog and child and tells you more about a safe home than the label “good with children”.

Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give the cat high escape routes and a dog-free area, prevent chasing, keep the dog on a lead during the first controlled meetings, and reward calm behaviour. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over time. Small pets should always be protected by secure separation.

The breed may shed less than many other dogs, but it is not hypoallergenic. Dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin, and amounts vary even among individuals of the same breed. Low shedding does not show that a dog produces fewer allergens. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore rely on medical advice, not on a promise attached to a particular breed.

Before buying, focus on concrete checks: meet the dam if possible and watch how she recovers from ordinary events, ask for patella, eye and prcd-PRA results, discuss the true workload involved in coat care, and plan for time alone, children or other animals in your own home. This tests whether the individual dog and the way it has been bred suit your life, instead of relying on its small size or an idealised breed description.

Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka

Svenska Kennelklubben (SKK)

Deutscher Verband der Gebrauchshundsportvereine (DVG)

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Small, sturdy Russian toy breed with a long, wavy low‑shedding coat and many colors. Affectionate, people‑oriented and sensitive, it thrives on close companionship and moderate daily exercise. Intelligent and adaptable to apartments, but needs regular grooming and dislikes long solitude.

Linde-Lou's är en uppfödare av rasen Russkaya Tsvetnaya bolonka med bas i Knivsta i Sverige. Uppfödningen har fött upp russkaya tsvetnaya bolonka sedan 2019. Hundar från uppfödningen har ställts ut i flera nordiska länder.

Linde-Lou's

## Quick Facts

The Drever is a low-set Swedish driving hound used mainly for hare, fox, roe deer and other deer. It combines a powerful hunting instinct and independent work in the forest with a calm basic temperament. The breed is best suited to a hunter, or to a home that can provide genuine scent work and manage its voice and interest in following tracks in everyday life.

- **Purpose:** an all-round driving hound that finds game, follows the track and gives tongue. Track accuracy, an appropriate pace and the ability to end a long chase are important working qualities.
- **Size:** males should stand 32–38 centimetres at the withers, with 35 centimetres ideal. Females should stand 30–36 centimetres, with 33 centimetres ideal.
- **Temperament:** the breed standard describes the Drever as attentive and calm. Aggression, nervousness and shyness are not part of the desired breed temperament.
- **Activity:** strong working drive and great stamina. Lead walks are rarely enough as the dog's only activity.
- **Coat:** a coarse, straight, close-lying coat that is relatively easy to care for.
- **Key health concern:** hunting-associated pulmonary oedema, sometimes called hunting oedema, is the breed's clearest documented specific health problem.

A Drever can be a lovely member of the family, but it is not an uncomplicated companion dog. Anyone wanting a dog that is often off lead, seldom works with its nose and remains quiet in a block of flats should consider another breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Drever should be long-bodied and low-set, yet strong, muscular and agile. It is built to work in rough country, not to look excessively long or heavy. Ground clearance should be about 40 per cent of height at the withers, and movement should be even, parallel and ground-covering.

The breed standard specifies height but no ideal weight. A number on the scales therefore matters less than the whole dog: the ribs should be easy to feel, a waist should be visible and the dog should carry enough muscle for its work. When choosing a puppy, free movement, well-constructed forelegs and adequate ground clearance are more useful than a promised adult weight.

The coat is coarse, straight and close-lying. It is shorter on the head, ears and lower legs, and slightly longer on the neck, back and rear of the thighs. The underside of the tail is bushy without feathering. All colours with white markings are permitted except predominantly white, merle and liver. The white markings should be visible from several angles.

Coat care is simple, but a working dog needs more than brushing. Remove loose hair as required and bathe the dog when it is dirty, rather than to a fixed timetable. After hunting or moving through dense cover, check the paws, nails, skin, eyes and ears for wounds, debris and ticks. Keep the nails short enough not to interfere with the way the paw meets the ground.

## Temperament & Personality

The Drever should be calm and attentive, but it has also been bred to make decisions at a distance from its handler. What looks like stubbornness at home is often the independence needed in the forest. Once the dog finds an interesting game scent, everything else can quickly become less important than the track.

With the right routine, a Drever can switch between intense outdoor work and settling at home. This does not guarantee that every individual will be quiet, easy to direct or sociable with everyone. Genetics, experience, training and the balance between activity and rest all matter.

The same basic rule applies around children as with any dog: an adult should be present and the dog must have a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. A calm breed temperament is no substitute for supervision, and children should not be responsible for a dog that may lunge after a scent on a walk.

Whether a Drever can live with other dogs, cats and small animals depends on the individual. It may learn to live with a cat, particularly after early, calm introductions, but its hunting instinct means that success should never be promised. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat from the first meeting, give the cat its own safe areas and do not leave them together unattended until you know how they behave with one another. Small pets need a secure space the dog cannot reach.

The voice is a working tool: a hunter follows the chase by listening to the dog. This does not mean that every Drever barks a great deal indoors, but noise must be considered before buying, especially in a flat. Repeated barking or howling when left alone should be treated as a sign that the arrangement needs to change, not as an unavoidable breed trait.

## Training & Exercise

Drevers respond best to clear routines, high-value rewards and difficulty that increases a little at a time. Harsh corrections do not create a safer hunting dog. Reward-based training that takes account of the breed's motivation provides a better foundation for trust and co-operation.

Start recall training in a place with no distractions. Reward promptly, often release the dog to sniff again, and move on to a long line before adding greater difficulty. Recall then does not always mean that the fun is over. A well-trained recall reduces risk, but it does not make hunting instinct harmless. In areas rich in game, a long line, secure enclosure or carefully planned hunting routine is often safer than testing whether obedience will hold.

No exact time rule suits every Drever. A sound daily routine includes physical activity, scent work, short training sessions and recovery. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, hunting season and individual needs. Build stamina gradually before the season instead of asking an unfit dog to go straight from quiet weeks to a long day in the field.

Activities that make good use of the breed's abilities include:

- game tracking or following a human-laid track with a clear start and finish;
- search exercises in which the dog works methodically with its nose;
- walks over varied ground with time to investigate scents;
- hunting trials and hunting training under knowledgeable guidance for a dog intended to work in the field.

Hunting is more than exercise. A Drever should search, put up and accurately drive hare, fox, roe deer or other deer, giving audible tongue and co-operating well enough for the hunt to remain manageable. For a non-hunting owner, the task is therefore greater than adding one extra-long walk: the dog needs regular, structured work that uses its nose, stamina and problem-solving ability.

## Health

The Drever is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but hunting-associated pulmonary oedema is a specific problem that every prospective and current owner should understand. It causes acute breathing difficulty during or after hunting. It is a form of non-cardiogenic pulmonary oedema, and the precise underlying mechanism remains unknown.

Warning signs include coughing, abnormally fast or laboured breathing and tiredness out of proportion to the work. An affected dog may struggle to lie down, sit with its head and neck extended or stop giving tongue during a chase. Stop the exertion and contact a vet if a dog develops these signs. Do not wait for another hunting day to see whether it happens again.

Heredity contributes to risk, and the Swedish Drever Club's breeding strategy contains specific guidance intended to reduce pulmonary oedema. Ask the breeder to show how cases on both the dam's and sire's sides have been assessed and how the planned mating appears in DreverData. Also ask how close relatives perform during hunting; normal breathing and recovery after work are important information.

Do not judge a Drever breeder by a generic list of hip, elbow and eye tests borrowed from other breeds. Use current advice for the Drever. Check the parents' identity, hunting and show results, temperament, health history and relatedness in the Swedish Kennel Club and breed-club records. Ask for frank answers about problems that do not have a simple test as well.

Good everyday care still matters. Keep the dog lean and well muscled, build fitness gradually and allow time to cool down after hard work. Check the dog after hunting and seek veterinary care for injury, pain, abnormal movement or altered breathing. A firm promise of a particular lifespan is less useful than documented health in the family and a breeder who is open about it.

## History & Origins

The Drever is Swedish as a recognised breed but has continental roots. Westphalian Dachsbracke dogs were imported into southern Sweden during the 1910s, and the first was registered by the Swedish Kennel Club in 1913. The underlying Dachsbracke type had been developed in areas including southern Germany, Tyrol and Switzerland during the nineteenth century.

In Sweden, hunters valued the low-set dog's way of driving roe deer and, later, hare, fox and other deer. The Swedish Dachsbracke Club was formed in 1944. In 1947, the Swedish variant was given the name Drever and the club became the Swedish Drever Club. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Drever as a Swedish breed in 1953.

The breed has continued to be selected as a working hunting dog. This explains both its robust construction and its strong hunting instinct today. The Drever's identity rests not only on appearance, but on its ability to follow a track accurately in Swedish country, give clear tongue and maintain a pace suited to driving game.

## Living with the Breed

The Drever is most at home when hunting or regular tracking work is a planned part of life, rather than something that may be tried later. It can live in a house or a flat, but the type of home does not meet the breed's needs by itself. A flat-dweller must arrange daily work outdoors and prevent nuisance noise; a householder still needs to train the dog and secure gates and boundaries.

Make this practical check before buying:

- **Work:** who will provide regular scent work and physical training outside the hunting season?
- **Safety:** can you use a long line, secure enclosures and reliable routines around doors, cars and hunting land?
- **Noise:** can your home cope with a powerful voice, and is there a plan if the dog starts barking through stress or lack of activity?
- **Time alone:** is there time to teach this gradually and arrange help if the dog cannot cope with the working-day routine? A Drever should not be expected to spend an entire working day alone.
- **Children and pets:** can children be supervised by an adult, and can cats or small pets have safe areas of their own?
- **Breeder:** can the breeder explain working ability, temperament, pulmonary oedema in the family and the reasoning behind the mating without making promises that nobody can keep?

A Drever can be a first dog, but only for someone willing to learn how a driving hound works and to seek support from the breeder, breed club or an experienced trainer. For a hunter who values an independent dog with a calm basic temperament, it can be both a skilled hunting partner and a close family member. For someone seeking an easily directed companion dog, the Drever is rarely the best match.

Drever

Svenska Dreverklubben

The Swedish Kennel Club

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Drever is a sturdy Swedish scent hound, low and long‑bodied yet strong and enduring. Bred to track and drive game at a steady pace, it has a clear voice, strong hunting instinct, and needs ample exercise. Friendly, affectionate, and easy‑care coated, it suits active, outdoorsy homes.

Torsmålen är en uppfödare av rasen Drever med bas i Vimmerby i Sverige.

Torsmålen

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Samulett's

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Norwegian Kennel Club

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Vi finns på Smålänska Höglandet centralt beläget i Södra Sverige i jönköpings län ca 1.2 km från centrum av Sävsjö i Hultrum.
Vi har uppfödning i hemmiljö och har hundarna som vårt största intresse  ,vår uppfödning  syftar till att föda upp trevliga och allsidiga familjehundar med många användningsområden. Vi följer skk's regler och samtliga hundar som används i avel är ögonlysta samt höftleds och armbågsröntgade med godkänt resultat.

Hultrum's

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Liten uppfödning av svart och svart&vit toy- och dvärgpudel i Västra Götaland.

Pappersdrakens

## Quick Facts

The English Springer Spaniel is an active British gundog bred to find game, flush it from cover and retrieve it. It is best suited to someone who wants to engage both the dog's body and mind every day, whether through shooting, dog sports or a varied outdoor life.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of approximately 51 centimetres at the withers. It does not specify a weight, so a fixed weight range is not a useful benchmark for every dog.
- **Type:** The breed has long included distinct breeding lines, particularly working-bred and more show-oriented dogs. A breeder's aims and the parents' traits say more about what a puppy may inherit than the label alone.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog. Individual dogs still differ in areas such as activity level, sociability and sensitivity.
- **Activity:** The breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** Dense, straight and weather-resistant, with feathering that needs regular brushing and trimming.
- **The right home:** A good choice for someone who wants to train, work with their dog and spend plenty of time outdoors; a poorer fit if the dog is often expected to make do with brief toilet walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Springer Spaniel is a strong, compact dog with a balanced, elegant outline. The standard gives a height of about 51 centimetres at the withers but no official weight range. Do not judge a dog against an arbitrary figure on the scales. Assess body condition instead: there should be a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure.

The coat should be dense and straight, providing protection from the weather without being coarse. The longer hair on the ears, legs and body forms moderate feathering. Permitted colours are liver and white or black and white, with or without tan markings.

A thorough brush about once a week is a sensible starting point for many dogs, but the amount of coat, season and activity determine what is actually needed. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, ear feathering and feet after woodland walks, swimming or wet weather, as debris and tangles can collect there. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. Clipping and trimming are required regularly, but the interval should follow the length and quality of the coat rather than a rigid calendar.

The well-feathered drop ears need regular checks. Trim the longer hair on the inside when necessary, and inspect the ears after swimming. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge or repeated scratching warrants veterinary advice rather than continued cleaning without knowing the cause.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Marked shyness and aggression are not desired traits. This makes the English Springer Spaniel an appealing working companion, but it does not guarantee how every dog will behave with children, strangers or other animals.

Results from BPH behavioural assessments also show that a breed average does not tell the whole story. Dogs of the same breed can react differently in social situations, during play and when something unexpected happens. The breed also includes different breeding lines that have not always been assessed separately. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, which traits have been prioritised and whether BPH or other relevant test results are available.

The breed needs opportunities to use its curiosity and willingness to work. High activity should not, however, be confused with a need to remain constantly on the go. The ability to switch between work and rest should be taught from the start through clear routines, calm breaks and suitably challenging tasks.

## Training & Exercise

The breed's original working sequence – hunt, flush and retrieve – explains much of its training needs. Many individuals enjoy investigating ground and cover, carrying objects and working closely with their handler. Walks can therefore be more rewarding when they sometimes include scent work, retrieving, simple searches or another shared training task.

There is no single daily exercise duration that suits every dog. A fit, healthy adult can cope with far more than a puppy, an older dog or one returning to activity after a break. Base the workload on age, health, fitness and recovery. Combine unhurried walks, time moving through varied terrain, mental training and rest instead of trying to exhaust the dog with intense exercise every day.

Checking in with the handler, recall and the ability to remain in place despite scent or movement are especially useful skills. Begin in easy situations and increase distractions gradually. Positive, reward-based methods and short sessions help preserve confidence and willingness to cooperate. A long line can add safety during training, but it does not prove that the dog will later be reliable off lead everywhere.

In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wild animals unless taking part in hunting. Extra control is required in places where wildlife may be present between 1 March and 20 August. If a dog has a strong interest in game, its owner must be able to prevent it from setting off in pursuit.

## Health

The English Springer Spaniel is generally described as a healthy breed. When buying a puppy, it is nevertheless important to distinguish formal requirements from breed-club recommendations. A long list of every condition ever reported in the breed is less useful than current results for the specific parents and their families.

For litters registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that they must have been assessed and a result must be available; it does not mean that every grade is automatically equally suitable for breeding. Springerklubben has more detailed breeding recommendations concerning hip results and combinations. Ask to see the parents' actual results and how the proposed mating follows the club's current guidance.

The breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination no more than one year before mating. Gonioscopy before a dog's first mating forms part of the club's guidance for assessing the drainage angle of the eye. Check the date, diagnoses and any follow-up advice on the certificates; do not settle for being told that the dogs have simply been “tested”.

Fucosidosis is a recessively inherited enzyme deficiency that can affect the central nervous system. A carrier does not become ill from the variant but can pass it on. A DNA test is available, allowing the breeder to document the parents' status and avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies. Understanding the verified results matters more than demanding the same set of tests for every dog.

In everyday life, check the ears and monitor body condition regularly. Recurrent ear trouble, changes in the eyes, lameness or other symptoms should be assessed by a vet. Do not assume that a problem is harmless simply because someone calls it “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The English Springer Spaniel comes from Britain's old spaniel tradition. These dogs were used to find and flush game for hunting with nets, falcons or Greyhounds. As shooting developed, their work became searching ahead of the gun, flushing game and then retrieving it.

The word “springer” refers to making game leave its hiding place. The Kennel Club recognised the English Springer Spaniel as a distinct breed in 1902. Sweden's Springerklubben was founded in 1982.

Breeding has followed different directions for many years. Working populations have primarily been selected for performance, while others have been selected more for conformation and the show ring. This is an important historical and practical distinction, but it does not create two simple personality templates. There is variation within both directions, and modern dogs may take part in several activities. A buyer should therefore assess the particular breeder's aims, the parents and the wider family rather than relying on a label alone.

## Living with the Breed

An English Springer Spaniel can live in a flat if it receives sufficient activity, recovery time and access to countryside or other suitable training environments. A garden does not replace walks and activities with its owner. What matters is how the dog's day is spent, not whether the home is a house or a flat.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and settled, and increase the duration only when it can relax. Individuals vary, so do not organise daily life on the assumption that the breed name guarantees a certain number of hours alone.

An adult should always supervise time with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. The standard's description of a friendly dog never replaces supervision. Take the same care with other animals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings brief and controlled, and give the cat its own escape routes. Whether a particular dog lives well with cats or other dogs depends on the individual, its previous experience and the introduction.

When considering a puppy, it is particularly useful to check:

- the breeder's goals and whether the dogs' level of working drive suits your life
- both parents' official hip results, not merely that they have been X-rayed
- the date and full result of eye examinations, including any gonioscopy
- verified fucosidosis status where relevant to the mating
- how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, ideally supplemented by BPH or working results
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different environments and ordinary family life.

The best match is a dog whose likely activity level, willingness to work and sensitivity fit the owner's real routine. For an English Springer Spaniel, that assessment is more valuable than promises that the breed is always easy, good with children or the same regardless of breeding direction.

English Springer Spaniel

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The English Springer Spaniel is a medium, athletic gundog with a feathered, weather‑resistant coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, affectionate and people‑oriented, it requires 1.5–2 hours of daily mental and physical exercise. Generally healthy, active, and suited to engaged, outdoorsy homes.

Jägarfamiljens är en uppfödare av rasen Engelsk springer spaniel med bas i Nyköping i Sverige. Uppfödningen är inriktad på jaktspaniel och den första kullen föddes 2011. Verksamheten omfattar kurser och träningar inom spanieljakt.

Jägarfamiljens

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Sametrollets kennel är en uppfödare av rasen Finsk lapphund med bas i Holsljunga i Sverige.

Sametrollets kennel

Strawberry Line's är en uppfödare av rasen Cocker spaniel med bas i Malmö i Sverige. Uppfödningen har omkring 25 års erfarenhet av cocker spaniel. Den första kullen föddes 2005.

Strawberry Line's

Pekingese

Pékingese Klubben Sverige (Sweden)

Small, solid toy dog once reserved for Chinese royalty, the Pekingese has a lion‑like mane, flat face, and long double coat needing regular grooming. Calm yet proud and independent, it bonds closely with chosen people, needs modest exercise, and serves as an alert, loyal watchdog.

Mister-Casanowa's är en uppfödare av rasen Pekingese med bas i Mariefred i Sverige. Den första Pekingese-kullen föddes i februari 1992.

Mister-Casanowa´s

## Quick Facts

The Dalmatian is a medium-sized, athletic and sociable dog best suited to someone who wants to share an active daily life with their dog. It can make a lovely family companion, but this is not a breed to choose for its looks alone. A Dalmatian needs well-planned exercise, training, recovery time and plenty of contact with its people.

- **Origin and breed group:** Croatia; FCI Group 6, Scenthounds and Related Breeds.
- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of 56–62 cm for males and 54–60 cm for females. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives a weight of about 27–32 kg for males and 24–29 kg for females.
- **Coat:** Short, harsh and dense, with black or liver spots on a white ground.
- **Activity level:** Energetic and built for endurance. The breed needs physical activity, opportunities to use its nose and think, and help learning to settle.
- **Important checks before buying:** Ask to see the puppy's BAER result for both ears, the parents' hearing results, and clear information about their HUA or LUA status. Also ask for hip, elbow and BPH behaviour-assessment results where available.

A Dalmatian can suit a committed first-time owner who is prepared to learn about the breed's particular health considerations and establish consistent routines. It is a poor choice for anyone looking for a dog content with short walks, likely to be left alone frequently, or expected to become reliably safe off lead without systematic training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dalmatian should be strong and well balanced without looking heavy. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, with an approximate ratio of 10:9 between body length and height at the withers. The short, glossy coat lies close to the body and shows off the athletic outline.

The ground colour is pure white. Spots should be black or liver, clearly defined and evenly distributed. They are normally around two to three centimetres across on the body and smaller on the head and legs. Puppies are born white, with the spots appearing gradually.

The coat requires no elaborate clipping. Brush as needed to collect loose hair, using the opportunity to check the skin, ears, paws and nails. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. A short coat does not necessarily mean little hair around the home: how noticeable shedding is varies between dogs, seasons and households.

The short coat provides limited protection when the dog is standing still, wet or exposed to severe cold. Adjust the pace and length of walks to the weather and the dog's response. A coat may be sensible in cold conditions, particularly if the dog becomes tense, seeks warmth or is reluctant to move on. Dry the paws and coat after wet walks or outings on salted winter paths.

## Temperament & Personality

A well-adjusted Dalmatian is friendly, lively, loyal and trainable. The breed standard also describes a degree of independence. In daily life, this often means a dog keen to join family activities but one that needs clear routines and a worthwhile reason to co-operate. Fearfulness, nervousness and aggression are not part of the standard's ideal, but a breed description can never guarantee the character of an individual dog.

Claims about hunting drive need qualification. The international breed standard mentions a pronounced scent-hound instinct, while the Swedish Kennel Club's short breed guide describes hunting interest as low. That difference is a good reason to assess the individual rather than rely on a label. Ask how the parents behave around wildlife and read their BPH behaviour-assessment results if they have been assessed. Practise recall on a long line where necessary, and do not let the dog off lead in unsecured places until its response has been tested thoroughly.

Many Dalmatians want to stay close to their family and are sensitive to mood and unclear expectations. Short, straightforward sessions with rewards and clear breaks will often work better than nagging or harsh corrections. Practise settling in a designated resting place as deliberately as handling, recall and walking with you.

With children and other animals, individual character, experience and household routines matter more than the breed name. A large, fast-moving adolescent can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult must therefore always supervise young children and the dog, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Dalmatian needs regular, varied activity, but there is no exact number of minutes that suits every dog. A good routine alternates walks, scent work, short training tasks, free movement where it is safe, and uninterrupted rest. Age, health, fitness and how the dog feels that day should determine the amount.

The breed historically accompanied carriages and horses, and many adult Dalmatians enjoy endurance exercise. That does not mean a puppy should be exercised like a fully conditioned adult. Let a young dog explore at its own pace, build body awareness and learn everyday skills rather than chasing mileage. Running alongside a bicycle or other repetitive conditioning work should wait until the dog is physically mature. Start with short, easy sessions, increase gradually, and stop if the dog is lame, stiff, reluctant or unusually tired.

Prioritise skills that make an active life safer:

- attention and walking with you even when something moves nearby
- recall first practised on a long line with controlled distractions
- calm waiting, settling and the ability to wind down after activity
- co-operative handling of ears, paws and mouth
- stop and direction cues before the dog accompanies a bicycle or horse

More speed is not always the answer for a restless adolescent. If the dog becomes increasingly over-aroused, sleeps poorly or struggles to concentrate, it may need simpler tasks and more recovery rather than another demanding session.

## Health

Two issues are particularly important for a Dalmatian buyer: congenital hearing loss and the breed's handling of uric acid. Ask for the actual test results and learn what they mean; do not settle for the vague claim that a litter is “health tested”.

### Hearing and BAER

BAER is a veterinary hearing test that assesses each ear separately. It shows whether a dog hears in both ears, hears in one ear, or is deaf in both. Ask to see the puppy's own certificate as well as the parents' results.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy reports BAER results submitted from 2018 to 2023. Within that particular group of tested dogs, about 86 per cent heard in both ears, just over 11 per cent heard in one, and just over 2 per cent were deaf in both. Those figures describe submitted results from tested dogs; they are not a precise prediction for every new litter.

A dog that hears in one ear is regarded as clinically hearing and may cope very well in daily life, although poorer sound localisation can require extra care near traffic and in other hazardous settings. The Swedish Dalmatian club recommends BAER-tested parents, mating a unilaterally hearing dog only to a bilaterally hearing dog, and never breeding from a deaf dog.

### HUA, LUA and urate stones

HUA and LUA describe different variants of the SLC2A9 gene, which affects the transport of uric acid. HUA Dalmatians excrete more uric acid in their urine and consequently have a greater tendency to form urate crystals and stones. An increased risk does not mean that the dog is certain to become ill. Nor do crystals in a sample prove by themselves that a stone is present.

LUA Dalmatians carry a gene variant that produces normal uric-acid handling. It was introduced through a documented cross-breeding project in the United States in the 1970s and is now present in registered Dalmatians, including dogs in Sweden. LUA does not protect a dog from every other urinary-tract problem.

Ask the breeder for the documented HUA or LUA status of the puppy and its parents, and whether urinary stones have occurred in the family. An HUA dog should have ready access to water and regular opportunities to urinate. Food and any treatment should be tailored with a vet if the dog develops problems; one rigid diet does not suit every individual. Repeated attempts to urinate, pain, blood in the urine or an inability to pass urine require prompt veterinary attention.

### Results, recommendations and rules

The Swedish Dalmatian club recommends measures including BPH behaviour assessment, BAER testing of breeding dogs and carefully planned matings based on hip and elbow results. These are breeding recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules impose no Dalmatian-specific requirement for BAER, hip or elbow screening, BPH, or HUA/LUA status; the breed's special registration provision concerns colour designation. A careful buyer can nevertheless request the results, check dates and identities, and discuss what they mean for the particular mating.

## History & Origins

The Dalmatian's official country of origin is Croatia, and its name is associated with the historic region of Dalmatia. Its earliest history should be described cautiously, but the breed standard refers to paintings and church chronicles from the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. The name “Dalmatian dog” appeared in a description from 1771, and in 1790 the dog was illustrated and described as the “Dalmatian or Coach Dog”.

In England, the Dalmatian became known as a carriage and stable dog from the middle of the eighteenth century until the early twentieth century. The dogs accompanied horse-drawn vehicles and consequently became associated with horses, endurance and travelling longer distances. The first unofficial standard was written in 1882 and became official in 1890.

The carriage-dog history helps explain the breed's activity profile, but it does not dictate how much exercise an individual dog needs or mean that every Dalmatian will be safe around horses. Introduce horse and dog under control and teach the dog where to stay before they move together.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Dalmatian depends more on daily structure than the size of the home. Flat living can work if the dog receives enough activity, regular toilet breaks and peace indoors. Sensitivity to noise and barking need early attention, especially with close neighbours. A garden is no substitute for walks, training or time together.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone. Later, begin with very short, calm absences and increase them only when the dog can genuinely rest. An adult dog that has been trained to cope alone can normally manage a few hours, but ability varies. Do not plan daily life around a supposed breed-specific maximum.

If the Dalmatian will live with a cat, first give the cat a dog-free area and access to high places or escape routes. Begin with scent swapping and short meetings with the dog on a lead, reward calm behaviour and interrupt attempts to chase. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over a substantial period. The same caution is needed around small animals.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to check:

- the puppy's BAER certificate for the right and left ear
- the parents' BAER results and the puppy's documented HUA or LUA status
- the parents' hip, elbow and BPH results, where available, and the breeder's interpretation of the mating
- how the parents behave around people, dogs, wildlife and noise, and how readily they settle in ordinary daily life
- how the breeder socialises the puppies and what support will be available after purchase

The Dalmatian suits someone who values a close, expressive dog with plenty of stamina and is willing to invest time in both activity and calm. Choose a breeder and an individual on the basis of documented results and observed everyday behaviour, not spots or general promises about the breed.

Dalmatian

Dalmatiner Klub Deutschland e.V. (Germany)

The Dalmatian is a medium, athletic dog with a short white coat and distinct black or liver spots. Originally a carriage and guard dog, it is energetic, intelligent, and needs far more exercise than average. Loyal and people‑oriented, it may struggle when left alone and is prone to deafness and urinary stones.

Vi är familjen som bor på Lindholmens gård mitt i Skåne, tillsammans med våra älskade Dalmatiners och våra övriga djur (hästar, katter, kanin o höns).
Vårt mål är att föda upp friska, sunda och vackra hundar med bra temperament, som ska få förgylla sina nya familjers liv i många år framöver…

Lindholmens kennel

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Mittlines är en uppfödare av rasen Tysk spets – mittelspitz med bas i Huskvarna i Sverige.

Mittlines

## Quick Facts

In Sweden, the Collie is registered as two separate breeds: the Rough Collie, FCI 156, and the Smooth Collie, FCI 296. They are often discussed together because they share a recent ancestry, the same height range and a similar build, but have different coats. The Border Collie, however, is a different breed with its own standard.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with strong historical links to Scotland.
- **Roles:** herding dog, working dog and companion.
- **Height:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females in both breeds.
- **Weight:** the Smooth Collie standard gives 20.5–29.5 kg for males and 18–25 kg for females. The Rough Collie standard gives no official weight.
- **Colours:** sable and white, tricolour and blue merle.
- **Longevity:** in a large UK study, the median for Collies as a combined category was 13.3 years. This is a figure for a large population, not a prediction for an individual dog.

A Collie is best suited to someone who wants an active life with a responsive dog and is prepared to examine temperament as carefully as appearance. Coat length makes a clear difference to grooming, but does not reliably predict how energetic, confident or easy-going an individual dog will be.

## Appearance & Coat

The Collie is agile and well balanced, combining strength and mobility without looking heavy or coarse. The long, blunt wedge-shaped head, almond-shaped eyes and ears that tip forwards help create the characteristic expression. Both breeds have the same official height range. The Smooth Collie weight range should not be treated as an official guide for the Rough Collie, whose standard does not specify a weight.

The Rough Collie has a very dense double coat. The outer coat should be straight and harsh, while the undercoat is soft, woolly and dense enough almost to hide the skin. The mane, chest, legs and tail carry more abundant hair. Brush through to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath the collar. More frequent combing is needed during a moult. Bathe when necessary.

The Smooth Collie has a short, straight, harsh outer coat with a very dense undercoat. It is much easier to keep free of tangles, but it still sheds. Brushing during a moult removes loose hair and is also an opportunity to check the skin, paws and nails. The coat should not need trimming or clipping to remain manageable.

Both breeds come in sable and white, tricolour and blue merle. White markings may appear on the collar, chest, legs, feet and tail tip, among other places. Colour is a poor basis for choosing a puppy; health, temperament, everyday behaviour and the breeder’s aims matter more.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, active and cooperative dog with no nervousness or aggression. Many Collies learn quickly, pay close attention to their handler and enjoy being part of daily life. That is an excellent foundation for training, but it does not guarantee that every Collie will be confident, quiet, uncomplicated around children or easy for a first-time owner.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines, and fearfulness has been an important focus in Swedish breeding work. Ask for more than general descriptions such as ‘sweet’ or ‘sensitive’. Examine the parents’ full MH behaviour descriptions, meet adult relatives if possible, and ask how the dogs react to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces and surprises. How quickly they recover is just as important.

The Collie has a dedicated mental index based on the dog’s own MH results and those of its relatives. There are indices for curiosity/confidence, sociability, play, chase and gunshot response. A value of 100 represents the breed average; it is not a pass mark. An index should be considered alongside the full description, the wider family and the type of home or work for which the litter was bred.

The standards and the Swedish Kennel Club describe Collies as friendly towards dogs and people, but experience, health and training also shape behaviour at home. Assess the individual rather than treating coat length or breed name as a guarantee of personality.

## Training & Exercise

A Collie needs daily physical activity and tasks that make use of cooperation, concentration and curiosity. No credible number of minutes can suit a puppy, an adult competition dog and a senior equally well. Adjust effort and difficulty to the dog’s age, health, experience and recovery.

Combine walks with activities such as tracking, search work, obedience, rally, agility or simple scent games at home. Variety is more valuable than merely increasing speed or distance. Teach the dog to wait and settle as well; an active dog does not need to remain highly aroused all day.

Reward-based training, clear cues and gradually harder tasks suit a dog that enjoys working with people. Break new skills into manageable steps, reward good choices and make the exercise easier if the dog becomes uncertain or loses concentration. Harsh corrections are not a shortcut to confidence.

A Collie can suit a first-time owner who wants to train, can recognise early signs of worry and chooses a litter on the strength of documented temperament. It is a poorer match for someone drawn mainly to the appearance, looking for a fixed exercise timetable or expecting the dog to entertain itself in a garden.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the actual results matter more than being told that the parents are ‘tested’. Ask for registration numbers and check hip results, MH records, eye findings and any relevant DNA results. Registration requirements and breeding recommendations are not the same thing.

For both Collie breeds, current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules require both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. Smooth Collie breeding dogs should have grade A or B hips. A Rough Collie with grade D or E must not be used for breeding, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a combined parental hip index above 100. The rules therefore differ between the two breeds.

The rules also require a known mental status. For resident Swedish parents born in 2016 or later, the full MH behaviour description must be completed and all 33 positions recorded. The handler may decline the gunshot element without the dog losing its known-status designation. MH describes reactions; the dog does not pass or fail it.

Collie Eye Anomaly, or CEA, is a congenital developmental abnormality affecting the back of the eye. It ranges from CH/CRD, which often causes no vision problem noticeable in daily life, to coloboma and rarer consequences such as bleeding or retinal detachment. Do not ask only whether a dog has been ‘CEA tested’; request the exact diagnosis and the age at examination.

Current Swedish registration rules do not impose a specific eye-examination requirement on Collies. The breed club nevertheless recommends that puppies are examined before leaving the breeder and that breeding dogs are examined again as adults. The Swedish Kennel Club explains that CH/CRD is best detected in young puppies, usually at 8–10 weeks, and recommends an adult examination before first mating in at-risk breeds.

A variant in the ABCB1 gene, commonly called MDR1, can make a dog sensitive to certain medicines. Testing is relevant for both Rough and Smooth Collies. Dogs with two copies are at greatest risk, but a dog with one copy may also react. Keep the result and show it to the vet before medication is given. The test addresses this particular drug sensitivity; it is not a general certificate of health.

The Swedish Kennel Club does not permit registration of puppies produced by mating two merle Collies. Merle combined with sable is also subject to specific rules on DNA status and breeding restrictions. A puppy buyer should therefore ask how the parents’ colours and any merle variant have been established, rather than choosing solely by the puppy’s markings.

## History & Origins

The Collie is a British breed with strong Scottish associations, although its precise early origin is uncertain. The breed standard describes a background in which local dogs mixed with dogs brought to Scotland by the Romans. Rough and Smooth Collies developed from the same working stock and shared bloodlines until relatively recent times.

Collies were first shown in England in 1861. Queen Victoria’s interest later helped make them fashionable as companions and show dogs. Their working ability remained important: the elegant build and responsiveness make more sense when seen in the context of a herding and working dog, not merely an appearance ideal.

During the twentieth century, the Rough Collie in particular became closely associated with the fictional Lassie. Eric Knight created the character in *Lassie Come-Home*, and the 1943 film used a Rough Collie. The stories shaped a heroic image of the breed, but a real dog must be judged by its own temperament, health and upbringing.

## Living with the Breed

A Collie can live in a flat or a house when given enough activity, rest and company. A garden does not replace walks and shared tasks. In a block of flats, the owner should also teach calm behaviour around sounds in communal areas and prevent the dog from spending all day watching the window or front door.

An adult should supervise time with children, set clear rules and provide a resting place where the dog will not be disturbed. Children should not climb on or hug the dog, or bother it while it is eating or sleeping. Even a friendly dog can feel trapped, and an enthusiastic Collie may accidentally knock over a small child during play.

Many Collies can live with other dogs and cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Prevent chasing, give the cat clear escape routes and do not leave the animals alone together until their relationship is settled. Small pets need secure accommodation that the dog cannot enter or watch from close range.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. Start with very brief periods when the puppy feels safe and is calm, and increase the duration only when it can settle. The amount of time an adult dog can manage varies; use the dog’s behaviour rather than a general maximum as your guide.

Before buying, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- Is the litter Rough or Smooth, and what are adult relatives like to live with?
- What are the parents’ hip results and, for a Rough Collie, their current hip indices?
- Have both parents completed MH, and what do MH, mental index and close relatives show about fearfulness and recovery?
- When were the puppies and parents examined by an eye specialist, and what exact CEA findings were recorded?
- What is each parent’s MDR1 status, and does the mating involve merle?

Coat length alone should not decide the choice. Look for a litter whose health, temperament and everyday behaviour across the wider family can be checked.

Collie

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Collie Association (UK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Collie is an intelligent, medium‑large herding dog with a long double coat needing regular grooming. Gentle, loyal, and sensitive, it bonds closely with family and prefers kind training. Adaptable to town or country, it needs daily mental stimulation and exercise to stay content.

Runnerway är en uppfödare av rasen Collie med bas i Svartå i Sverige. Uppfödningen har tidigare omfattat långhårig collie.

Runnerway

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Tejarpsdalens är en uppfödare av rasen Irish softcoated wheaten terrier med bas i Klågerup i Sverige.

Tejarpsdalens

Schipperke

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (Germany)

Schipperkes are small, sturdy Belgian dogs with a square build and thick black double coat forming a ruff and “culottes.” Alert, intelligent, and independent, they’re loyal watchdogs, energetic companions needing daily mental and physical exercise, and generally robust with proper health care.

Schipperke uppfödning i Norrbotten/Kalix med fokus på mentalitet och hälsa. Föder upp i första hand trevliga sällskapshundar med hälsan i behåll, att dem är snygga att se på är ett plus.

Spectabilis

## Quick Facts

The Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog is a large, white Italian pastoral breed whose main job is to guard flocks and property. It is therefore a livestock guardian, not a herding dog that gathers and moves sheep in response to a handler's signals. This distinction explains much of the breed's independence, alertness and tendency to make its own decisions.

- **Origin and purpose:** Italy; guardian of flocks and property in FCI Group 1.
- **Size:** males 65–73.5 cm and 40–52 kg; females 62–70 cm and 35–45 kg.
- **Coat:** long, abundant and fairly coarse white coat, with an undercoat that is particularly dense in winter.
- **Temperament:** affectionate with its owner and close family, but independent, observant and often reserved when strangers approach.
- **Best suited to:** an experienced dog owner who understands guarding behaviour, can begin socialisation early and has enough space to manage daily life safely.

This is rarely an easy choice for a first dog. Above all, its inherited guarding instinct requires planning. Meet several adult dogs and consider whether you can manage gates, visitors, neighbours and walks once the dog is fully grown.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog should be large and powerfully built without losing balance or freedom of movement. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the chest is capacious and the breed should move with a long stride and extended trot. The current breed standard gives a height of 65–73.5 cm for males and 62–70 cm for females. The corresponding weights are 40–52 and 35–45 kg.

The head is large, broad and gently conical. The nose should be black with well-opened nostrils. The almond-shaped eyes range from ochre to chestnut brown and have an alert expression. The small, high-set V-shaped ears hang down but are mobile. The teeth should meet in a scissor bite.

The white coat is an important part of the dog's protection from the weather. The outer coat is abundant, long, fairly coarse and lies close to the body; a slight wave is acceptable. Hair on the body can reach about eight centimetres, while the undercoat is at its fullest in winter. The basic colour must be solid white, although limited shading in ivory, pale orange or lemon is permitted. Clearly defined coloured patches are not part of the standard.

The Swedish Kennel Club advises that a thorough weekly brushing is normally sufficient. When the undercoat is shed, usually once or twice a year, more frequent brushing is often needed. Remove tangles before they tighten and pay particular attention behind the ears, around the ruff and around the legs.

The breed does not need to be bathed to a fixed timetable. Bathe the dog when it is dirty or when the skin and coat need it, using products intended for dogs. Gently accustom a puppy to brushing, nail trimming and checks of the paws, ears and skin. A fully grown dog of this size is much easier to care for when these tasks are already part of everyday life.

## Temperament & Personality

The Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog was bred to notice, assess and deter threats without constant direction from a person. At home, this may show in the dog choosing a vantage point, reacting to movement at the boundary and not automatically accepting someone who comes through the gate. Its independence is not simply disobedience; it is closely connected to the breed's original work.

With its own family, the breed can be close and affectionate. It is often aloof with strangers and may not wish to greet them or be touched. The aim is not for the dog to love everyone, but for it to remain calm around people whom its owner has admitted. Planned introductions, a designated resting place and the option of keeping the dog in another room are better than asking every visitor to find out what the dog will tolerate.

Guarding behaviour does not mean aggression is desirable. The breed standard disqualifies both aggressive and extremely shy dogs. A typical dog should be able to remain attentive and reserved without attacking unprovoked or staying agitated after an ordinary encounter. When visiting a breeder, watch how the dogs cope with guests and other everyday situations, not merely how imposing they look behind a fence.

Individuals and bloodlines vary. Thoughtful exposure to different environments should help the dog distinguish everyday life from events that warrant a response. It will not erase the guarding instinct or turn the dog into an outgoing companion breed.

## Training & Exercise

Training works best when it is reward-based, clear and connected to real situations. A Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog can learn a great deal, but repetitive exercises with no obvious purpose may lose its interest. Start early and build the behaviours that make a large, independent guardian safe to live with.

Give particular priority to:

- waiting while doors and gates are opened;
- walking on a lead and turning away from people, dogs and other animals when asked;
- an everyday recall and a separate, particularly well-rehearsed recall cue, without assuming either will work when the distraction is overwhelming;
- going to a designated resting place when somebody arrives;
- calmly accepting coat care, paw handling and veterinary examinations;
- a cue to interrupt barking and the ability to settle after alerting.

Socialisation should be controlled and repeated. Introduce the puppy to people, surfaces, sounds, vehicles and environments at a distance where it remains comfortable. Brief, successful encounters are better than forcing the dog through a crowd. Use rewards and avoid pain, intimidation and contests of will.

The breed needs daily activity and something meaningful to do, but no set number of minutes or long walks suits every dog. An adult can have a satisfying routine with varied walks, opportunities to use its nose, calm training and safe movement on its own land. Adjust duration and exertion to age, fitness, weather and health. For a growing large-breed puppy, controlled and varied activity is more sensible than fixed distances or strenuous exercise.

A garden is not a substitute for walks and time with its owner, and any freedom must be secure. Swedish law requires the level of supervision needed to prevent injury or substantial nuisance. There is no fence height that suits every dog. Adapt gates and fencing to the site and to the individual dog's jumping, climbing and digging behaviour. Use a lead or a genuinely secure area whenever recall is uncertain.

## Health

Too few Swedish dogs have been documented to show reliably how common different diseases are in the Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog. It is therefore not possible to give a long list of typical breed conditions or an exact life expectancy. The Swedish Kennel Club mentions hip dysplasia, or HD, but stresses that the breed's overall health is difficult to assess.

An official HD programme applies to breeding in Sweden. Both sire and dam must have an official hip status before mating if their offspring are to be registered. The breed is listed for **known status**, not under the stricter breed requirement for both parents to have an A or B grade. The general Swedish Kennel Club rules nevertheless prohibit the use of grade E in breeding, while a grade D dog may only be mated to a dog graded A or B. For this breed, 18 months is the minimum age for an official radiographic assessment.

An older Swedish breed strategy encouraged both hip and elbow radiographs, but too few dogs had been examined to estimate the prevalence of either HD or ED. The 2026 registration rules contain no separate requirement for an official ED status in this breed. A breeder may still have elbow results that provide useful information about the wider family. Ask to see registered results and enquire about siblings and other close relatives instead of accepting a phrase such as “healthy lines”.

Monitor the dog's body condition, movement and stamina. Seek veterinary advice for lameness, pain, reluctance to rise or a clear change in behaviour. During growth, feeding, development and physical strain should be reviewed with the breeder and a vet. Do not assume that a breed with a long working history is automatically healthy.

## History & Origins

The Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog developed as a flock guardian in Italy. The official standard links it to pastoral dogs still used in Abruzzo and to dogs formerly found in the Maremma areas of Tuscany and Lazio. As flocks moved between regions, the local dog types mixed naturally, particularly from the 1860s onwards.

Their work was to protect livestock and property, often with considerable responsibility of their own. This helps explain why the modern dog still assesses its surroundings, watches boundaries and may respond without first looking to a handler for direction.

Maremmano and Abruzzese were long described as separate regional types. A unified Italian breed standard took effect on 1 January 1958. The name has subsequently appeared in different word orders across languages and organisations. In December 2025, the formal Italian name was changed to **Cane da Pastore Abruzzese Maremmano**. This was a change of name within the same breed, not the creation of a new breed.

The breed is still used in its traditional role, but also lives as a farm and family dog. Its size, independence and readiness to guard remain present whatever its role.

## Living with the Breed

The Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog is best suited to a home with space, clear boundaries and calm routines. The Swedish Kennel Club primarily recommends an experienced owner and a rural setting. Housing alone does not determine welfare, but a poorly soundproofed flat with busy shared areas and frequent unexpected visitors makes guarding and barking harder to manage. Consider the entrance, neighbours, walking routes, the ability to separate the dog when needed and access to a secure outdoor area.

Barking is part of the breed's way of raising the alarm. You can teach the dog to stop and come to you, reduce triggers for unnecessary barking and choose its sleeping place with the surroundings in mind. It is unwise, however, to choose the breed in the hope of removing all desire to guard. Speak to close neighbours before difficulties arise and change the routine if the dog repeatedly stands outside barking at ordinary local activity.

The breed can live with children, but it is not automatically a nanny or a protector entitled to intervene. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Plan carefully for noisy play, running and visiting children: a guarding dog may interpret shouting or rough play differently from the people involved. Use a gate or separate room whenever you cannot actively supervise.

A background as a livestock guardian does not guarantee that every individual will accept dogs, cats, poultry or sheep. Make introductions gradually, keep the dog on a lead at first and give a cat or smaller animal a safe area of its own. Previous experience and the individual dog's behaviour matter more than a claim of low prey drive. Do not leave the animals together unsupervised until that particular combination has been stable for a long time.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and adjust the pace to its response; a large property is no substitute for social contact. Change the plan and seek help if necessary when the dog cannot settle, barks continuously or tries to escape.

The abundant coat does not make the breed allergy-free. No dog breed is free of allergens, and allergen levels and people's reactions vary. Anyone with an allergy should investigate their own circumstances and meet the individual dog rather than relying on coat colour or type.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to the following questions:

- Do I have experience with a large, independent guardian, or access to a knowledgeable trainer?
- Can I provide secure gates, safe walks and a separate space for visitors without isolating the dog from family life?
- Do I accept that training can improve barking and guarding behaviour but cannot erase the breed's purpose?
- Have I seen both parents' official HD results and received factual information about the health and temperament of close relatives?
- Have I met adult dogs from the breeder's bloodlines and seen how they settle after ordinary disturbances?
- Can I provide coat care, exercise, companionship and veterinary care for a dog that may weigh more than 50 kg?

If you can still answer yes with a fully grown dog in mind, a Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog can become a loyal and steady partner. The key is not to make the breed less inclined to guard, but to give its traits clear and safe boundaries in the life you will actually share.

Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog

ENCI: Ente Nazionale della Cinofilia Italiana

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V.

Large, white Italian livestock guardian, the Maremma Abruzzese Sheepdog is powerful, weather‑resistant and deeply loyal yet reserved with strangers. Independent, strong‑willed and highly watchful, it needs space, secure fencing, experienced handling and regular coat care to thrive.

Gårds Vita Tassars är en uppfödare av rasen Maremmano abruzzese med bas i Falköping i Sverige.

Gårds Vita Tassars

## Quick Facts

The Basenji is a small, lightly built hunting dog of primitive type from Central Africa. It does not bark in the usual way, but it is not silent: yodels, chortles and other sounds are part of how the breed communicates. A Basenji suits someone who appreciates an independent dog and can manage its hunting instinct safely.

- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types.
- **Origin and patronage:** the breed originated in Central Africa; Great Britain is its country of patronage within the FCI.
- **Original purpose:** hunting, including driving game towards traps. Today the Basenji is primarily a companion dog in Sweden.
- **Size:** the breed standard gives ideals of 43 cm and 11 kg for dogs, and 40 cm and 9.5 kg for bitches.
- **Coat:** short, sleek, close and very fine.
- **Voice:** barkless but not mute; its distinctive sound is described as a mixture of a chortle and a yodel.
- **Temperament:** intelligent, independent, affectionate and alert; some individuals are aloof with strangers.
- **Activity:** needs regular physical exercise, scent work and training that feels worthwhile to the dog.
- **Important breeding health concerns:** Fanconi syndrome, PRA-BJ1 and other Basenji retinopathy/PRA, together with eye examination.
- **Seasonality:** many Basenji bitches have a seasonal cycle, often coming into season once in autumn in the Nordic region, but there are exceptions.

## Appearance & Coat

The Basenji is high on the leg in relation to its body length and should look light, balanced and agile. The head is finely chiselled, the ears are small and erect, and the forehead wrinkles when the ears are pricked. The chest runs up into a definite waist, and the tail is carried in a tight curl over the back. The figures in the standard are ideals, so look at the parents and mature close relatives if adult size matters to you.

The coat is short, sleek, close and very fine. Accepted colours include black and white, red and white, black, tan and white, and brindle with black stripes on a red background. White must appear on the feet, chest and tail tip; white legs, a blaze and a collar are optional.

The short coat is relatively straightforward to keep clean. Check the skin and coat regularly and brush when loose hair or dirt needs removing. A short coat does not, however, make the breed allergy-free. Dog allergens occur mainly in skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals, even within the same litter. Anyone with an allergy should therefore assess the individual dog and seek medical advice before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Basenji combines closeness to its people with a marked ability to make its own decisions. The standard describes the breed as intelligent, affectionate and alert, but it is not automatically biddable. What seems charming and inventive in a quiet setting can become a safety issue when the dog sees or scents something it wants to follow.

The standard allows for some reserve with strangers; it is not the same as fear or aggression. Let the puppy encounter different people, dogs and environments at its own pace. Ask how the parents and mature close relatives respond to visitors and handling.

A Basenji can live happily in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of safety. An adult should supervise young children and the dog, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone when it is sleeping, eating or moving away. Assess the individual dog's signals and history, especially if you are considering an adult dog being rehomed.

Relationships with other dogs, cats and small animals vary. The breed's hunting background means that rapid movement can trigger a chase, even in a dog that is calm with the family cat indoors. Build coexistence through slow introductions, separate safe areas and by preventing the dog from practising chasing. Familiarity at home does not automatically make a dog reliable around unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

The Basenji needs daily physical exercise and mental activity, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Combine walks, opportunities to sniff, short training sessions and the chance to move more freely in a completely secure place. Adjust the amount and intensity for age, health, fitness and recovery.

Training works best when cooperation is rewarding. Use food, play, movement or access to something the dog wants to investigate. Short, clear and varied tasks often work better than drilling. Reward-based methods have better support for learning and welfare than pain, intimidation or physical corrections.

Start recall training early, but do not rely on recall as the only safeguard. Where wildlife may appear, a lead, long line or fully enclosed area is safer than expecting training to override hunting interest. Make sure gates and fencing are secure for your dog; a set-up is not safe merely because it worked for another Basenji.

Tracking, scent work and lure coursing, a simulated chase of an artificial lure, can provide controlled outlets for the breed's hunting and tracking ability. Attention, walking on a loose lead, exchanging found objects, accepting handling and settling are just as important. With a puppy, prioritise calm exposure to the world, playful learning and gradual increases in physical demands.

## Health

The best-documented breeding concerns are Fanconi syndrome and eye disease, particularly PRA-BJ1 and other Basenji retinopathy/PRA. Ask to see the results for both parents and find out what each examination covers; the word “health-tested” is not enough.

Fanconi syndrome is an inherited disorder in which the kidney tubules fail to reabsorb electrolytes and nutrients normally, so important substances are lost in the urine. Increased thirst and urination, together with glucose in the urine, are recognised signs and require veterinary assessment. A DNA test is available for Basenjis. Under the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, a carrier may be mated to a genetically clear dog; two carriers must not be mated together.

Eye health requires more than a single DNA result. The PRA-BJ1 test concerns one identified variant, while another form of Basenji retinopathy/PRA is detected by eye examination. A clear PRA-BJ1 result therefore does not exclude every form of inherited eye disease. Persistent pupillary membrane, or PPM, also occurs; mild findings do not usually affect sight, while more extensive findings need separate assessment.

It is important to distinguish binding rules from the breed club's breeding work. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, the Basenji has no breed-specific requirement for an official HD, eye or DNA result; its special provision concerns colour coding. The breed strategy approved in 2024 instead describes the club's puppy listing and requirements or recommendations concerning Fanconi, PRA-BJ1, eye examination and hip X-rays. SKK registration therefore does not prove that all these checks have been completed.

Ask the breeder for documents showing the dog's identity, examination date and result. Check in particular:

- the Fanconi results for both parents and that any carrier has been mated to a clear dog.
- the PRA-BJ1 results for both parents, together with current eye examination results.
- whether the parents have been X-rayed for HD, even though the breed club recommends rather than requires this.
- whether the puppy's veterinary examination recorded an umbilical hernia; a small fat-filled hernia is not the same as a large one.
- recurring kidney, eye, mobility or temperament problems in parents, siblings and older close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Basenji comes from Central Africa and has been used as a hunting dog, including to drive game towards traps. The dogs hunt by both sight and scent. The work requires cooperation as well as independent decisions, helping to explain the breed's combination of close attachment and self-reliance.

The documented Western breeding history took hold in England during the 1930s. Breeding outside Africa initially relied on few dogs and consequently had a narrow genetic base. Later imports from the Congo, including those in the late 1980s and the 2000s, introduced additional genetic material.

The Basenji arrived in Sweden in 1951 through imports from England, although breeding did not gather pace until the 1970s. Brindle was accepted in the breed standard in 1999 following later African imports.

Dogs resembling Basenjis appear in old depictions, and the breed is often described as very ancient. These similarities show that the dog type has deep historical roots, but they do not establish an unbroken pedigree from antiquity to the registered Basenji of today. It is more accurate to distinguish the old dog type from the documented history of modern breeding.

## Living with the Breed

The fact that a Basenji does not bark like other dogs does not mean a silent home. Yodels, howls and whines may carry, and individuals vary in how vocal they are. Flat living can work if exercise, scent work, rest and safe outdoor access are properly arranged; the type of home does not replace activity or calm training.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure in its new home. At first, step only behind a gate or outside the door briefly, then increase the time while the dog remains calm. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability cannot be predicted from its breed. Ask how the parents and mature relatives cope with rest and brief separations, and arrange help if your routine asks more than your dog can comfortably manage.

If there is a cat in the home, first give it a dog-free area, its own resources and escape routes. Begin with separation and scent swapping, then move to brief meetings through a gate with the dog on a lead, rewarding calm behaviour. Prevent every attempt to chase. Do not leave the animals unattended together until both have repeatedly remained calm. If the dog continues to fixate or chase, keep the animals separate.

Many Basenji bitches have a pronounced seasonal cycle and often come into season in autumn in the Nordic region, so many litters are born late in the year. Documented exceptions occur outside the main season. Do not plan either dog management or a puppy purchase on the assumption that every bitch will invariably come into season once at exactly the same time.

Before choosing a Basenji, make sure you can answer yes to the following:

- I want to live with an independent dog and can train without demanding unquestioning obedience.
- I can provide daily exercise, scent work and controlled opportunities to use the dog's natural abilities.
- I have a safe plan involving a lead, long line or enclosure wherever wildlife may appear.
- Everyone in the home can respect the dog's resting place and recognise when it wants space.
- I have seen the parents' actual Fanconi, PRA-BJ1 and eye results and understand the combination.
- I have asked about vocal behaviour, time alone, chasing, umbilical hernias and health in mature close relatives, rather than only meeting the puppies.

The Basenji is the right choice when independence, hunting instinct and unusual vocalisations are treated as everyday traits, not details that training will erase. With safe routines and reward-based cooperation, the breed can become a close and distinctive companion.

Basenji

The Basenji Club of Great Britain

Basenji: small, athletic African hound, 40–43 cm and 9–12 kg, with short coat, curled tail and wrinkled forehead. Often “barkless,” it yodels instead. Clean, independent, intelligent and strong-willed, it needs patient positive training, secure fencing, and regular mental and physical exercise.

Mountaineer's är en uppfödare av rasen Basenji med bas i Riddarhyttan i Sverige.

Mountaineer's

## Quick Facts

The American Cocker Spaniel is a compact American bird dog and companion with considerable working drive behind its elegant appearance. It is a distinct breed, not a smaller version of the English Cocker Spaniel. The breeds share an origin but have different standards and breeding histories. Even so, you cannot assume that every American Cocker is calmer or has less hunting drive than every English Cocker.

- **Origin:** United States.
- **Classification:** FCI number 167 in Group 8, Retrievers, Flushing Dogs and Water Dogs.
- **Original function:** flushing and retrieving bird dog; the breed standard also lists companion dog.
- **Ideal height at the withers:** about 38 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight.
- **Temperament ideal:** even, confident and cheerful, without shyness.
- **Activity:** needs substantial daily exercise and tasks that engage its nose and cooperation with the handler.
- **Coat care:** demanding, especially when the coat is kept long. A shorter sport trim makes daily care easier but does not remove the need to check the ears, feet and skin.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine companionship with training and accepts regular coat and ear care. It can suit a first-time owner who seeks help when needed, but it is not automatically an easy choice simply because it is relatively small.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Cocker Spaniel should be a strong, balanced and mobile dog in a compact format. The body is slightly longer than tall but should look neither long nor low. The clearly defined head should be in proportion to the body. The eyes should be dark and must not protrude; the expression should be alert and gentle. Movement should be free and efficient, without the abundant coat obscuring the dog's outline.

The standard divides the colours into black, solid colours other than black, and parti-colours. The body coat is medium in length with a protective undercoat. The ears, chest, abdomen and legs carry more feathering. Correct coat is silky and straight or slightly wavy. Excessive coat, a cottony texture or curl is not the goal: the American Cocker Spaniel should still function as a sporting dog.

How often the coat needs combing and clipping depends on its amount, length and texture, as well as the dog's activity and the weather. Part the coat down to the skin and check that a comb passes through without resistance. Tangles readily form around the ears, armpits, groin and feet and under a harness or collar. After walks in woodland, rain or swimming, the coat needs an extra check and thorough drying.

A full show coat requires considerably more work than a shorter sport trim. Ask the breeder to demonstrate the care routine before the puppy comes home. Gradually accustom the puppy to a comb, dryer, clippers, foot handling and standing still for short periods. Grooming then becomes an everyday skill rather than a struggle after the coat has already matted.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an even, bold and cheerful dog that enjoys working with its person. Many American Cockers seek contact, are playful and learn quickly, but the standard describes a breeding goal—it does not promise the temperament of an individual dog. Genetics, early experiences, health, upbringing and training all have an influence.

The Swedish BPH data are too limited to provide a reliable picture of temperament across the breed: the current breeding strategy reports only 25 assessed dogs in 2015–2023. It is therefore more useful to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other close relatives. Watch how the dogs seek contact, accept handling, respond to something unexpected and settle again. Ask how relatives cope with the kind of daily life you are planning.

Hunting traits vary but can remain. The breed is still described as a flushing and retrieving bird dog, although hunting use is uncommon in Sweden. An American Cocker may therefore suddenly become very interested in a scent or bird. Recall and outdoor engagement need to be trained rather than assumed.

## Training & Exercise

The American Cocker Spaniel needs daily activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, environment and the day's other demands determine what is appropriate. A good routine combines walks and free movement in safe places with scent work, retrieving, cooperation and the ability to settle afterwards.

The breed's background offers several natural training routes. Search exercises, tracking human scent, blood tracking, controlled retrieving and tasks in which the dog works close to the handler engage both its nose and its willingness to cooperate. Rally obedience, obedience, agility and freestyle may also suit the individual. Start simply and increase difficulty, duration and physical load only when the dog is recovering well.

Prioritise recall, engagement, calm behaviour around encounters and the ability to leave a scent trail from an early age. Also train everyday skills: examination around the eyes and ears, foot handling, standing on a grooming table and resting despite movement nearby. Short, clear sessions and rewards the dog values help maintain motivation.

More activity is not always the answer to restlessness. A dog that struggles to settle may need clearer recovery time, better-adjusted training or a health check. For a puppy, new environments, body awareness and short tasks should take priority over long, repetitive exercise sessions.

## Health

The ears are the most important health area to plan for, and eye examination is the clear Swedish breeding requirement. The Swedish breeding strategy identifies ear inflammation as the breed's most common health problem. Drop ears, abundant ear hair and a rich coat make it particularly important to be able to see the skin, keep the hair around the ear opening manageable and spot problems early.

Odour, redness, swelling, discharge, tenderness or head shaking are reasons to contact a veterinarian. Recurrent problems should be investigated because there may be an underlying cause. Healthy ears do not, however, need cleaning according to a frequent standard schedule. Nor does the breeding strategy support the claim that American Cockers are generally born with narrow ear canals.

Hereditary eye conditions including cataracts and retinal folds occur, and PRA has been identified in isolated cases. For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official eye-examination result. The certificate may be no more than one year old, and the result must be valid before mating. The rule requires a current result; it does not mean that every diagnosis must be marked clear. Check the parents' results and dates in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata database, and ask the breeder to explain how any findings were assessed for the proposed mating.

A DNA test for prcd-PRA is neither a guarantee against all PRA nor a replacement for an eye examination. In 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club's breeding committee rejected an application for a central level 1 prcd-PRA health programme for the American Cocker Spaniel because it had not been established that confirmed PRA cases in the breed were caused by that particular mutation. Do not confuse the breed's Swedish requirements with testing packages for the English Cocker Spaniel: FN, hip dysplasia screening and patella examination are not formal registration requirements for the American Cocker Spaniel under the current rules.

The Swedish Kennel Club's special judging instructions highlight head shape, eyes and excessive coat. When choosing a puppy, sound proportions, eyes that neither protrude nor water constantly, a correct bite, free movement and a coat that does not hinder the dog matter more than an extreme look. Healthy parents reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The American and English Cocker Spaniels share roots, but the American type developed in the United States and became a distinct breed. Obo II, born in 1882, is commonly identified as an important early dog in its American history. Differences in type became clearer during the first half of the 1900s.

In 1945, the American Kennel Club divided the Cocker Spaniel into American and English Cocker Spaniels. The first American Cockers arrived in Sweden in the 1950s. The FCI lists the United States as the country of origin and places the breed among retrievers, flushing dogs and water dogs. Today's breed is often oriented towards companionship and showing, but the bird-dog function in the standard explains why scent work, searching and retrieving remain relevant activities.

## Living with the Breed

The American Cocker Spaniel can live well in a house or flat when activity, access outdoors, coat care and recovery are properly arranged. In a building where sound carries, training for calm behaviour around noises and a plan for the dog's days are needed; the breed name does not tell you whether an individual will bark a lot or a little.

The breed can live happily with children, dogs and other animals, but the breed alone provides no guarantee. A dog and small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Introductions to other animals should be calm and controlled. Consider the individual's previous experience, resource guarding, play style and interest in chasing, not just a general breed description.

Alone time is taught gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Some individuals learn quickly; others need a slower plan. The breed should therefore be described neither as unable to stay alone nor as trouble-free without training.

The following checks are particularly useful before buying a puppy:

- View both parents' official eye results and dates in Avelsdata; check that each result was no more than one year old at mating.
- Ask about recurrent ear, eye and skin problems in the parents and close relatives, not only whether the dogs appear healthy on that particular day.
- Meet the puppy's mother and observe contact, handling, reactions to sound and recovery. Ask about other close relatives if the father is not present.
- Look for free movement, sound head proportions, eyes that do not protrude, water or squint, and a quantity of coat that can be maintained without hindering the dog.
- Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat and ear care, and judge the workload against the coat length you actually intend to keep.
- Describe the daily life and activities you are planning. A breeder who knows their lines should be able to discuss variation rather than promise that every puppy will be the same.

Rules and recommendations can change. Always check the current versions with the Swedish Kennel Club and breed club when buying rather than relying on an old checklist.

American Cocker Spaniel

American Cocker Spaniel: a small, sturdy gundog with a silky coat and large, expressive eyes. Cheerful, affectionate, and people‑oriented, it suits active families. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, gentle positive training, and regular, thorough grooming and ear care.

Light&Dark's

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Team Oldenburgs är en uppfödare av rasen Flatcoated retriever med bas i Hållsta i Sverige.

Team Oldenburgs

## Quick Facts

The Greyhound is a British sighthound in FCI Group 10. It was developed to pursue hare by sight and is built for speed. In Sweden, the two main types are standard or show lines and racing lines. They are all the same breed, and a dog from racing lines has not necessarily raced.

- The ideal height in the breed standard is 71–76 centimetres for males and 68–71 centimetres for females.
- The breed standard does not specify a weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 30–50 kilograms for standard-type males and 28–42 kilograms for females; racing-type dogs are often 10–15 kilograms lighter. Line, sex, height and body condition therefore make a considerable difference.
- The coat is fine, short and close-fitting. It requires little grooming but provides limited protection from cold, wet weather and chafing.
- Greyhounds react quickly to movement. Access to a spacious, securely enclosed area matters more than the assumption that a good recall makes a dog safe off lead everywhere.
- The breed standard describes the Greyhound as intelligent, gentle, affectionate and even-tempered. An individual dog's calmness, sociability and desire to chase are also shaped by its line, upbringing, experience and health.

The Greyhound is best suited to someone who wants a close companion but can also manage the breed's speed and hunting instinct. Prospective owners therefore need to consider both life indoors and opportunities for safe exercise outside.

## Appearance & Coat

The Greyhound is a tall, strong and well-balanced dog, not merely a very slim one. Its long head and muscular neck lead into well-laid shoulders, a deep chest, a slightly arched loin and powerful hindquarters. The tucked-up abdomen and long legs create the familiar sighthound outline. The overall construction combines speed and stamina without appearing coarse.

Standard and racing lines can look noticeably different. The standard type is generally larger and heavier, while the racing type is often lighter. These are two types within one breed, not two officially separate breeds. If size matters for your home, car or daily routine, ask the breeder to show you mature close relatives.

The coat should be fine and close-fitting. Permitted colours are black, white, red, blue, fawn, reddish-yellow and brindle, either solid or combined with white. The coat normally only needs brushing when there is loose hair and bathing when the dog is genuinely dirty. Its shortness also makes grazes, chafing and changes in body condition easy to see.

Choose weather protection for the individual dog and the situation, not according to a fixed temperature threshold. A lean dog that is standing still in the cold or gets wet may need a coat, while a dog exercising in the same garment may become too warm. Check that collars, harnesses and coats do not rub the narrow neck, shoulders or armpits. A soft bed away from draughts is also practical for a short-coated dog with prominent bony points.

## Temperament & Personality

A Greyhound may be quiet and affectionate at home, but the expression “couch potato” is a simplification, not a trait guaranteed in every dog. Some settle easily between activities; others need more support with noise, being left, visitors or unfamiliar surroundings. Ask how the particular dog behaves in real daily situations rather than relying on the breed's reputation.

The breed was selected to spot and pursue movement at a distance. The urge to chase can therefore be triggered very quickly by wildlife, a cat or a small running dog. This does not mean every Greyhound is unsuitable with other animals. It means compatibility must be assessed individually, and a calm first meeting does not prove how the dog will respond when another animal starts to run.

With children, the individual dog's confidence and the household routine matter more than a general breed label. An adult should manage interactions, protect the dog's sleeping area and prevent children from climbing on, restraining or surprising a resting dog. Use the same care with small dogs and cats: begin at a distance with a lead, gate or other secure barrier, give each animal a retreat and do not leave them together unsupervised until you know their responses well. Small pets in cages or runs require secure separation.

Kind, clear handling suits the breed better than harsh corrections. A Greyhound that stops or withdraws is not necessarily stubborn; it may be uncertain, overwhelmed or in pain. Reward the behaviour you want and reduce the difficulty so that the dog is confident enough to try again.

## Training & Exercise

Greyhounds need daily movement and opportunities to use their bodies, but there is no credible minute-by-minute formula that suits every dog. Walks, sniffing and everyday training form the foundation. Opportunities to gallop can be added in a large, securely enclosed area when the dog's age, health, footing and fitness allow. A young, unfit, older or newly rehomed dog should be conditioned gradually.

The hunting instinct is the central safety issue. Keep the dog on a lead near traffic and wherever wildlife or small animals may appear. Fencing needs to be intact, high enough for the individual and free of gaps through which a slim dog could squeeze. Check the ground before releasing the dog as well; running at speed over slippery, uneven or littered ground increases the risk of injury.

Teach a response to the dog's name, attention, stopping and recall because these skills can reduce risk and make daily life easier. Recall does not, however, remove the innate pursuit response. A dog that returns every time in a training field may make a different choice when a deer breaks cover. A long line can offer more room in some places, but it is not safe for uncontrolled flat-out galloping and requires careful handling.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions often work well. Train the skills that make a practical difference: waiting calmly at doors, walking with you on lead, accepting handling of feet and mouth, pausing on cue and settling in a designated place. For a former racing dog, stairs, slippery floors, glass doors, household noises and ordinary family life may be unfamiliar. Find out what that individual already knows and introduce the rest in small steps; do not assume the same list applies to every rehomed dog.

## Health

A Greyhound's health needs to be considered in relation to its line and family because Swedish statistics often combine the standard and racing types even though their risk patterns can differ. Ask to see recorded results, enquire about the health of close relatives and check that the tests are relevant to the dog's line.

For standard and show lines, the current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs have a known status for Greyhound hereditary neuropathy, GHN. A study linked the condition to a recessively inherited change in the NDRG1 gene in the show Greyhounds examined. A DNA result should therefore be interpreted alongside the inheritance pattern and the other parent's result, not as a general indication that every carrier is ill.

For racing lines, the same breeding strategy recommends DNA testing for progressive retinal atrophy, PRA, and an eye examination before every mating. These recommendations are specific to the line. At the same time, the Greyhound has no special compulsory health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration regulations for 2026. The absence of a binding registration requirement does not mean health screening is unimportant.

Greyhounds also have blood values that can differ from general canine reference intervals. Studies have found, among other features, higher red blood cell counts and haematocrit, while white blood cell and platelet counts are often lower; creatinine and thyroid values may also need to be interpreted with the breed in mind. Always tell the vet that the dog is a Greyhound and ask the clinic to consider breed-specific intervals before labelling a result abnormal.

Delayed bleeding has been reported in some Greyhounds one to four days after surgery, even when routine coagulation tests did not clearly predict the problem. Before an operation or dental procedure, the vet should know the breed, any previous unusual bleeding and details of earlier procedures. Medication and preventive treatment must be chosen by the vet; the evidence does not support one simple standard solution for every Greyhound.

A British clinical study also placed the Greyhound among breeds with a higher frequency of osteosarcoma in the population examined. This does not predict what will happen to an individual dog, but persistent unexplained lameness, local pain or swelling should be examined by a vet rather than attributed only to age or a previous racing career.

## History & Origins

The Greyhound has a long history, but accounts often present it with more certainty than the evidence allows. The official breed standard says that an origin in the Middle East is disputed and mentions depictions of Greyhound-like dogs in Egyptian tombs. The resemblance shows that the sighthound type is ancient; it does not establish an unbroken pedigree from ancient Egypt to every modern Greyhound.

The uniform breed described by today's standard was developed in the British Isles. Greyhounds were used for coursing hare, working by sight and speed over open ground. This background explains both the quick response to movement and the body built for galloping.

When mechanical oval-track racing was established in 1926, it created a distinct breeding focus on racing speed. Show and racing lines subsequently developed along partly different paths, and in Sweden the differences can be seen in size and health recommendations. They remain one breed. Today Greyhounds are kept as companions, shown and used in organised sighthound activities, while many former racing dogs are also rehomed as household pets.

## Living with the Breed

A Greyhound can live in a flat or a house if it can settle indoors, goes out every day and has a safe arrangement for exercise. The size of the home matters less than stairs, slippery floors, noise transmission, access to outdoor space and how comfortably the dog copes with noise and being alone. Assess the individual dog in the setting where it will actually live.

Teach the dog to be alone gradually. Start with very short, uneventful absences and extend them only while the dog remains calm. A newly rehomed dog should be allowed to settle into its routine before demands increase. Persistent barking, pacing, destruction, drooling or being unable to take familiar treats can show that the step was too difficult; reduce the duration and seek knowledgeable help if the problems continue.

Arrange the home for a long, fast dog that may react suddenly to movement. Provide a soft, undisturbed sleeping place, non-slip surfaces where needed and secure doors and gates before removing the lead. Introduce cats and other dogs in stages. Even a dog that lives calmly with the family cat may respond differently to a running cat outdoors.

Before buying or rehoming, obtain clear answers to the following:

- Is the dog from standard/show or racing lines, and how large are its closest mature relatives?
- Which health tests have been completed for the parents: known GHN status in standard lines, or PRA testing and eye examinations in racing lines?
- What is known about health and longevity in the parents, siblings and older close relatives?
- How does the dog respond to children, small dogs, cats, wildlife, traffic, strangers and being left alone?
- Which environments and everyday experiences has the dog actually encountered?

Good answers describe observations, results and exceptions instead of promising that all Greyhounds are alike. When hunting instinct, line, health and home environment are a good match, a Greyhound can be a close companion who is easy to live with, provided its safety needs are not underestimated.

Greyhound

The Greyhound Club of Great Britain

Svenska Vinthundklubben (Swedish Sighthound Club)

Den Danske Greyhound Klub

Tall, slender Greyhounds are sprinting sighthounds, built for speed yet calm indoors. They have a short, low‑maintenance coat in many colors and need soft bedding and weather protection. Gentle, sensitive, and affectionate, they suit owners who provide routine, kind training, and moderate daily exercise.

Merriness är en uppfödare av rasen Greyhound med bas i åryd i Sverige. Kennelnamnet har funnits sedan 1977.

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