## Quick Facts

The English Springer Spaniel is an active British gundog bred to find game, flush it from cover and retrieve it. It is best suited to someone who wants to engage both the dog's body and mind every day, whether through shooting, dog sports or a varied outdoor life.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of approximately 51 centimetres at the withers. It does not specify a weight, so a fixed weight range is not a useful benchmark for every dog.
- **Type:** The breed has long included distinct breeding lines, particularly working-bred and more show-oriented dogs. A breeder's aims and the parents' traits say more about what a puppy may inherit than the label alone.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog. Individual dogs still differ in areas such as activity level, sociability and sensitivity.
- **Activity:** The breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** Dense, straight and weather-resistant, with feathering that needs regular brushing and trimming.
- **The right home:** A good choice for someone who wants to train, work with their dog and spend plenty of time outdoors; a poorer fit if the dog is often expected to make do with brief toilet walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Springer Spaniel is a strong, compact dog with a balanced, elegant outline. The standard gives a height of about 51 centimetres at the withers but no official weight range. Do not judge a dog against an arbitrary figure on the scales. Assess body condition instead: there should be a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure.

The coat should be dense and straight, providing protection from the weather without being coarse. The longer hair on the ears, legs and body forms moderate feathering. Permitted colours are liver and white or black and white, with or without tan markings.

A thorough brush about once a week is a sensible starting point for many dogs, but the amount of coat, season and activity determine what is actually needed. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, ear feathering and feet after woodland walks, swimming or wet weather, as debris and tangles can collect there. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. Clipping and trimming are required regularly, but the interval should follow the length and quality of the coat rather than a rigid calendar.

The well-feathered drop ears need regular checks. Trim the longer hair on the inside when necessary, and inspect the ears after swimming. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge or repeated scratching warrants veterinary advice rather than continued cleaning without knowing the cause.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Marked shyness and aggression are not desired traits. This makes the English Springer Spaniel an appealing working companion, but it does not guarantee how every dog will behave with children, strangers or other animals.

Results from BPH behavioural assessments also show that a breed average does not tell the whole story. Dogs of the same breed can react differently in social situations, during play and when something unexpected happens. The breed also includes different breeding lines that have not always been assessed separately. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, which traits have been prioritised and whether BPH or other relevant test results are available.

The breed needs opportunities to use its curiosity and willingness to work. High activity should not, however, be confused with a need to remain constantly on the go. The ability to switch between work and rest should be taught from the start through clear routines, calm breaks and suitably challenging tasks.

## Training & Exercise

The breed's original working sequence – hunt, flush and retrieve – explains much of its training needs. Many individuals enjoy investigating ground and cover, carrying objects and working closely with their handler. Walks can therefore be more rewarding when they sometimes include scent work, retrieving, simple searches or another shared training task.

There is no single daily exercise duration that suits every dog. A fit, healthy adult can cope with far more than a puppy, an older dog or one returning to activity after a break. Base the workload on age, health, fitness and recovery. Combine unhurried walks, time moving through varied terrain, mental training and rest instead of trying to exhaust the dog with intense exercise every day.

Checking in with the handler, recall and the ability to remain in place despite scent or movement are especially useful skills. Begin in easy situations and increase distractions gradually. Positive, reward-based methods and short sessions help preserve confidence and willingness to cooperate. A long line can add safety during training, but it does not prove that the dog will later be reliable off lead everywhere.

In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wild animals unless taking part in hunting. Extra control is required in places where wildlife may be present between 1 March and 20 August. If a dog has a strong interest in game, its owner must be able to prevent it from setting off in pursuit.

## Health

The English Springer Spaniel is generally described as a healthy breed. When buying a puppy, it is nevertheless important to distinguish formal requirements from breed-club recommendations. A long list of every condition ever reported in the breed is less useful than current results for the specific parents and their families.

For litters registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that they must have been assessed and a result must be available; it does not mean that every grade is automatically equally suitable for breeding. Springerklubben has more detailed breeding recommendations concerning hip results and combinations. Ask to see the parents' actual results and how the proposed mating follows the club's current guidance.

The breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination no more than one year before mating. Gonioscopy before a dog's first mating forms part of the club's guidance for assessing the drainage angle of the eye. Check the date, diagnoses and any follow-up advice on the certificates; do not settle for being told that the dogs have simply been “tested”.

Fucosidosis is a recessively inherited enzyme deficiency that can affect the central nervous system. A carrier does not become ill from the variant but can pass it on. A DNA test is available, allowing the breeder to document the parents' status and avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies. Understanding the verified results matters more than demanding the same set of tests for every dog.

In everyday life, check the ears and monitor body condition regularly. Recurrent ear trouble, changes in the eyes, lameness or other symptoms should be assessed by a vet. Do not assume that a problem is harmless simply because someone calls it “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The English Springer Spaniel comes from Britain's old spaniel tradition. These dogs were used to find and flush game for hunting with nets, falcons or Greyhounds. As shooting developed, their work became searching ahead of the gun, flushing game and then retrieving it.

The word “springer” refers to making game leave its hiding place. The Kennel Club recognised the English Springer Spaniel as a distinct breed in 1902. Sweden's Springerklubben was founded in 1982.

Breeding has followed different directions for many years. Working populations have primarily been selected for performance, while others have been selected more for conformation and the show ring. This is an important historical and practical distinction, but it does not create two simple personality templates. There is variation within both directions, and modern dogs may take part in several activities. A buyer should therefore assess the particular breeder's aims, the parents and the wider family rather than relying on a label alone.

## Living with the Breed

An English Springer Spaniel can live in a flat if it receives sufficient activity, recovery time and access to countryside or other suitable training environments. A garden does not replace walks and activities with its owner. What matters is how the dog's day is spent, not whether the home is a house or a flat.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and settled, and increase the duration only when it can relax. Individuals vary, so do not organise daily life on the assumption that the breed name guarantees a certain number of hours alone.

An adult should always supervise time with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. The standard's description of a friendly dog never replaces supervision. Take the same care with other animals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings brief and controlled, and give the cat its own escape routes. Whether a particular dog lives well with cats or other dogs depends on the individual, its previous experience and the introduction.

When considering a puppy, it is particularly useful to check:

- the breeder's goals and whether the dogs' level of working drive suits your life
- both parents' official hip results, not merely that they have been X-rayed
- the date and full result of eye examinations, including any gonioscopy
- verified fucosidosis status where relevant to the mating
- how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, ideally supplemented by BPH or working results
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different environments and ordinary family life.

The best match is a dog whose likely activity level, willingness to work and sensitivity fit the owner's real routine. For an English Springer Spaniel, that assessment is more valuable than promises that the breed is always easy, good with children or the same regardless of breeding direction.

English Springer Spaniel

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The English Springer Spaniel is a medium, athletic gundog with a feathered, weather‑resistant coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, affectionate and people‑oriented, it requires 1.5–2 hours of daily mental and physical exercise. Generally healthy, active, and suited to engaged, outdoorsy homes.

Springdog's

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Oakbeach

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

Iselin Ellingsen

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Mini Power

## Quick Facts

- The Bernese Mountain Dog is a large Swiss farm dog originally used for guarding, draught work and driving cattle. Today, it is primarily a companion and versatile working dog.
- Males stand 64–70 cm at the withers, with 66–68 cm preferred. Females stand 58–66 cm, with 60–63 cm preferred. The breed standard does not specify a weight.
- The breed should be self-confident, attentive, good-natured and devoted to its family, as well as friendly towards strangers.
- An adult needs substantial activity every day. Puppies and young dogs should not be given structured conditioning work or heavy physical loads.
- The long double coat normally needs a thorough brush each week, and more often during moulting.
- In Sweden, both parents must have official hip and elbow results before mating. The HS test for histiocytic sarcoma estimates risk; it does not say that a dog is healthy or affected.
- Tumours and low longevity are the breed's most serious health concerns. The lifespan and documented causes of death among relatives therefore matter when choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bernese Mountain Dog is large and powerful, but it should also be mobile, harmonious and well balanced. Its body is roughly ten per cent longer than its height at the withers and should look compact rather than elongated. A heavy outline is not the same as correct breed type: the dog should move freely and carry its size without being overweight.

Males should stand 64–70 cm, ideally 66–68 cm. Females should stand 58–66 cm, ideally 60–63 cm. The breed standard gives no weight range. Assess an adult by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead of aiming for a particular number on the scales.

The head should be powerful without being too heavy. The eyes are dark brown and almond-shaped, and the ears are medium-sized and triangular. The bushy tail reaches at least to the hock and hangs down when the dog is relaxed, but may rise to the level of the back when moving.

The coat is long and glossy, either straight or slightly wavy. The base colour is jet black, with rich rust markings on the cheeks, above the eyes, on the legs and on the chest. White appears in places including a symmetrical blaze and the throat and chest. White feet and a white tail tip are desirable, but symmetry of markings says nothing about a dog's health.

The Swedish Kennel Club's breed guide recommends brushing or combing once a week and daily during moulting. Adapt this to the individual dog and the season. Work down to the skin and check behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where tangles can hide. At the same time, feel for lumps, tenderness and changes to the skin.

Schedule longer summer activities for cooler parts of the day, provide shade and water, and let the dog rest if it is not recovering normally. Never leave a dog in a hot car, even in the shade or with a window partly open.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Bernese Mountain Dog should be confident, good-natured and biddable, not fearful or aggressive. The standard also describes an attentive, watchful dog that is devoted to its family and friendly towards strangers. This is a breeding and temperament goal, not a guarantee for every puppy or every situation.

The breed is often sociable and willing to cooperate, but a boisterous adolescent of this size can knock over a child, pull an adult off balance or crowd a visitor without any aggressive intent. From an early age, teach four paws on the floor, calm greetings, loose-lead walking and settling in a designated place.

Socialisation does not mean making the puppy greet everyone. Offer calm experiences of people, dogs, traffic, surfaces, handling and different environments, while allowing it to watch from a distance. Repeated fearfulness should be taken seriously rather than dismissed as the breed being “sensitive”.

A Bernese Mountain Dog can live successfully with children and other animals, but the individual and the introduction make the difference. Children should not climb on the dog or disturb it when sleeping. The dog needs a quiet resting place, and an adult should always supervise interactions between dogs and young children.

## Training & Exercise

An adult Bernese Mountain Dog needs proper exercise and meaningful activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes. Adapt the amount to age, body condition, health, fitness, surface and temperature. Walks with time to sniff, everyday training, scent work and play create a better routine than simply trying to exhaust the dog.

For puppies and young dogs, the Swedish Kennel Club distinguishes natural movement from deliberate exercise. Let the dog move at its own pace and rest when needed. Planned runs, repeated jumping and heavy draught work should wait until the dog is physically mature. Do not rely on a simple five-minute rule; adjust activity according to the dog's movement, fatigue and recovery.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions work well. Prioritise skills that become difficult to teach only after the dog has reached its full size:

- walking on a loose lead and turning with the handler
- greeting without jumping up or leaning its full weight against someone
- recall and engagement around distractions
- waiting at doorways and getting calmly in and out of the car
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat

The breed's heritage can be channelled into scent work, obedience, rally, carrying a dog pack, or the breed club's draught and working tests. Pulling a load requires suitable equipment, gradual preparation and a physically mature, healthy dog.

## Health

Health and longevity must carry considerable weight when choosing a Bernese Mountain Dog. The current Swedish breeding strategy identifies tumours as the breed's greatest health problem and shows that low longevity remains an issue. Even so, nobody can promise how many years an individual dog will live.

In the Swedish insurance mortality data for 2016–2021 reported in the breeding strategy, the median age was 5.5 years. In a Swiss study of club-registered dogs born in 2001–2002, median survival was 8.4 years. The populations, periods and methods differ, so these figures are not the same kind of forecast. They show why health and longevity in close relatives are more useful than one general range.

Tumours accounted for more than half of deaths in both a Swiss and a Dutch study. Histiocytic sarcoma is the tumour type specifically targeted by the breed's health programme. The HS test places dogs in lower, average or higher genetic risk groups relative to the breed. It is not a diagnostic test: a lower-risk dog may still develop the disease, while a higher-risk dog may remain healthy.

HSIMS estimates the risk of a proposed mating from the parents' HS results. It must be considered alongside longevity, other aspects of health, relatedness and function. Selecting solely for the lowest risk would reduce genetic diversity. The Swedish breeding strategy recommends HS testing, but it is not required for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. Since 2025, however, the Swedish Sennenhund Club's puppy-listing service has required both parents to be tested.

Both parents must have official hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. Dogs with HD grades D or E and ED grades 2 or 3 must not be used. The breeding strategy also recommends parents free from ED and a combined HD and ED index above 100. An index of 100 is the breed average and incorporates information from relatives, so indices and the results of screened littermates reveal more than one isolated result.

Renal dysplasia, or RD, is a serious developmental kidney disorder that mainly affects young dogs. Confirmed cases are recorded centrally, and a definitive diagnosis requires examination of kidney tissue. Familial nephropathy is another documented kidney disease and more often affects young adults. There is no simple DNA test that can show that a proposed mating is free from the inherited risk behind these diseases.

Ask the breeder to show and explain:

- the parents' official hip and elbow results and the proposed mating's current indices
- how many littermates and previous offspring have been screened, and their results
- HS results and how HSIMS and genetic diversity have been taken into account
- kidney disease, tumour diagnoses, longevity and verified causes of death among parents, siblings and older relatives

## History & Origins

The Bernese Mountain Dog has a documented history as a farm dog in the Alpine region around Bern, Switzerland. It guarded farms, pulled loads and helped with cattle. The dogs were known as Dürrbächler after the Dürrbach inn near Riggisberg, where the long-haired, tricoloured type was common.

Dürrbächler dogs were shown at dog shows in 1902, 1904 and 1907. In November 1907, breeders around Burgdorf founded the Schweizerischen Dürrbach-Klub to breed the dogs to a consistent type and define their characteristics. The name Bernese Mountain Dog was later established in relation to the other Swiss mountain dog breeds.

The claim that the breed descends from Roman mastiffs is often repeated, but it is not part of the securely documented history. The reliable account centres on the local farm dog around Bern, its work in guarding, draught and cattle handling, and the organised development of the breed in the early twentieth century.

## Living with the Breed

A Bernese Mountain Dog needs practical space in daily life, not just enough floor area. Flat living can work, but check the stairs, lift, slippery floors, access to suitable walking areas and how an ill dog could be transported. A garden is useful, but it does not replace walks and shared activity.

Plan for a large bed, a car and harness that can accommodate the dog, food, insurance and somewhere to dry a wet coat. Add non-slip surfaces where needed. It is better to solve these practical issues while the dog is young than when it is in pain.

Time alone must be trained to suit the individual. Begin with very short separations while the dog is settled, and increase them only when it can lie down and relax. Persistent whining, pacing, panting or scratching shows that the step was too difficult. The breed's devotion does not prove that it will have separation problems, but nor does it guarantee that a dog can cope with a whole working day alone.

Introduce dogs and cats gradually. Keep them apart at first, let them become used to each other's scent, give the cat a dog-free place and prevent the dog from chasing. Brief meetings through a gate or with the dog on a lead can then be extended when both animals are relaxed. The same calm principle applies when meeting other dogs; the Bernese Mountain Dog's size makes early lead control particularly important.

A good breeder can discuss both strengths and problems in the family and provides documentation, not merely the names of tests. Choose a mating in which health, temperament, function and genetic diversity have been considered together. Openness about ill and deceased relatives is at least as valuable as good results for the parents.

Bernese Mountain Dog

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norway)

Deutscher Club für Berner Sennenhunde e.V. (Germany)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Large Swiss farm-bred dog with a strong, balanced build and a thick tricolour coat. Affectionate, people focused, and usually gentle with children. Needs moderate daily exercise, cool climates, regular grooming, and kind training. Health screening is crucial due to joint issues and cancers.

Nina Merethe Lee

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Niels Michael Jensen

Schipperke

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (Germany)

Schipperkes are small, sturdy Belgian dogs with a square build and thick black double coat forming a ruff and “culottes.” Alert, intelligent, and independent, they’re loyal watchdogs, energetic companions needing daily mental and physical exercise, and generally robust with proper health care.

Agri Maris's

Monica Pedersen

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Betty Knutsen

Anita Trolle Godtliebsen

Lone Opal's

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Byyorks

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Kuglebjerggårds

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Piece of art dinasty

Doodels

House of Bergqvist

Ladies Hunt

## Quick Facts

- Distinctive blue coat that changes color as the dog matures  
- Originally bred in Ireland as an all‑purpose farm and hunting dog  
- Lively, intelligent terrier that thrives on close contact with its family  
- Low‑shedding, curly coat that requires regular grooming to avoid matting  
- Bold, spirited character that combines clown‑like charm with serious determination  


## Appearance & Coat

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a medium‑sized, strongly built terrier with a proud, almost aristocratic outline. At first glance you notice the elegant head, the distinctive beard and furnishings, and of course the famous blue coat. Adult males usually stand around 45 to 49 cm at the shoulder, with females slightly smaller. The body is compact and muscular, with a straight back and a deep chest that hints at the breed’s working background. Despite the sturdy build, a good Kerry should never look heavy or clumsy. The overall impression is of a balanced, athletic dog that could work all day in the fields.

The head is long and clean, without exaggeration. A neatly trimmed beard and eyebrows give the Kerry Blue its expressive look, somewhere between serious thinker and mischievous comedian. Dark, oval eyes are set fairly close together and should look keen and intelligent, never harsh. The ears fold forward in a V shape, adding to the terrier expression. The tail is usually carried high and straight, giving a lively, alert appearance.

The coat is one of the breed’s most famous features. Puppies are usually born black or very dark, and the blue color develops gradually over the first few years of life. Many Kerries pass through “in between” shades such as steel grey, slate, or a mix of blue and black before settling into their adult color. The ideal coat is soft, dense, and wavy, not harsh or wiry. It should form gentle curls rather than tight ringlets.

The Kerry Blue Terrier has a single coat with very little shedding, which can be a benefit for people who dislike dog hair around the home. However, this low‑shedding coat comes with a commitment to regular grooming. Without attention, the soft hair will mat and tangle, especially behind the ears, under the collar, in the beard, and between the legs.

For practical coat care:

- Brush or comb thoroughly at least two to three times a week, working right down to the skin to remove tangles. A pin brush and a metal comb are very useful.  
- Check common trouble spots such as armpits, groin, beard, and behind the ears where small mats can form quickly.  
- Bathe your Kerry Blue Terrier every four to six weeks, or as needed, using a mild dog shampoo that does not strip the coat. Thorough rinsing and drying help keep the coat healthy.  
- Professional trimming or clipping is usually required about every six to eight weeks to maintain the typical terrier silhouette. Many owners learn to trim at home with guidance from breeders or grooming clubs.  

The beard and moustache need special care, as food and water can quickly make them messy. Wiping the beard after meals and checking for trapped debris will keep your Kerry more comfortable and prevent unpleasant odors. With consistent grooming, the coat feels soft and luxurious and becomes one of the greatest pleasures of living with this unique terrier.


## Temperament & Personality

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a dog with a big personality, often described as “a terrier with a sense of humor.” Intelligent, lively, and full of character, this is not a dull or passive breed. Kerries tend to bond very closely to their families. They enjoy being involved in everything that happens at home, whether it is gardening, watching television, or going for a drive. Many owners report that their Kerry follows them from room to room, always ready to join in or offer “help” in its own enthusiastic way.

With people, the Kerry Blue Terrier is usually affectionate and devoted. A well‑raised Kerry is typically good with children, particularly those who are respectful and understand how to behave around dogs. The breed enjoys play and can be a tireless companion for active youngsters who like to throw balls, learn tricks, or practice dog sports. Supervision is important with smaller children, both to protect the child from accidental knocks and to make sure the dog is treated gently. Like most terriers, Kerries do not appreciate rough handling and may object if teased or pulled.

The Kerry Blue is known for its confident and sometimes bold nature. This can be very appealing, because it gives the dog plenty of charm and presence, but it also means clear rules are important from an early age. Many Kerries are naturally watchful and will bark to alert their family to visitors or unusual sounds. While they are not typically aggressive guard dogs, they can be protective of their home and people if they feel there is a threat.

With other dogs, especially of the same sex, Kerry Blue Terriers can be assertive. The breed was developed in part for hunting and vermin control, so a degree of dog‑to‑dog and prey drive is not surprising. Proper socialization from puppyhood, involving controlled, positive meetings with friendly dogs, helps a great deal. However, some adult Kerries may still prefer not to share space with unfamiliar dogs, and they often do best with confident, experienced owners who can manage interactions calmly. Living with another dog in the same household is very possible, particularly if introductions are done early and personalities are well matched.

When it comes to other pets, such as cats or small animals, the Kerry’s hunting background needs to be taken seriously. Some individuals can live peacefully with a resident cat if raised together and supervised, but many still have a strong chase instinct outdoors. Very small pets like rabbits or rodents are usually best kept safely separate.

The breed’s intelligence and energy can lead to mischief if the dog is bored. A lonely Kerry with little mental stimulation may bark, dig, or invent its own entertainments that do not fit well with human expectations. On the positive side, this same cleverness means the Kerry Blue Terrier often excels in training, problem solving, and interactive games. In the right environment, with structure, affection, and enough activity, the Kerry is a joyful, loyal, and very entertaining companion.


## Training & Exercise

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a bright, capable breed that learns quickly and enjoys having a job to do. At the same time, it has a typical terrier streak of independence and may question why a particular exercise is necessary. This combination means training should be consistent, engaging, and never heavy handed. Positive reinforcement works best, using rewards such as food treats, toys, praise, and play. Kerries respond well to trainers who are calm, confident, and fair.

Early socialization is essential. From a young age, expose your Kerry puppy to a variety of sights, sounds, surfaces, and people. Well managed puppy classes can help build confidence and manners. Focus on:

- Reliable recall, so you can call your Kerry back even when interesting distractions appear.  
- Calm greeting behavior, both with people and other dogs.  
- Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, and walking on a loose lead.  

Because the Kerry Blue Terrier is energetic and often quite agile, it tends to enjoy dog sports. Many individuals excel in agility, obedience, rally, scent work, or tracking. Short, varied training sessions are usually more successful than long, repetitive drills. If an exercise feels pointless, a Kerry may simply stop cooperating. Turning training into a shared game makes the dog an eager partner rather than a reluctant participant.

In terms of exercise, the Kerry Blue is not a hyperactive breed, but it is certainly not a couch potato. Most adults need at least one to two hours of physical and mental activity each day. This does not have to be in one block. A typical day might include a brisk morning walk, a shorter evening walk, and several play or training sessions scattered throughout the day. Off lead running in safe, enclosed areas is very beneficial, as it allows the dog to stretch out and burn energy.

Activities many Kerries enjoy include:

- Fetch games, especially with balls or soft toys  
- Tug games with clear rules, such as “take it” and “drop”  
- Scent games in the garden, where treats or toys are hidden for the dog to find  
- Structured training sessions that mix obedience, tricks, and problem solving  

Because of their strong prey drive and sometimes selective hearing, many Kerry Blue Terriers should not be allowed off lead near roads or in open areas without reliable recall. A long training line can provide more freedom while you build trust and responsiveness.

Mental exercise is just as important as physical. Puzzle toys, food dispensing toys, and simple household challenges like “find it” searches can tire a Kerry mentally and reduce unwanted behavior. When their minds are engaged, Kerries are generally calmer and happier indoors.

Owners who are willing to train kindly but firmly, provide regular exercise, and share time and attention will find the Kerry Blue Terrier a very rewarding partner. Those who prefer a dog that simply lies quietly for most of the day may find this breed a little too much, as it truly comes alive when given opportunities to learn and move.


## Health

The Kerry Blue Terrier is generally a robust and long‑lived breed, but like all dogs it has some health issues that responsible owners and breeders should be aware of. With good care, many Kerries live into their early to mid teens, often remaining active well into old age.

Some health concerns that can appear in the breed include:

- Hip dysplasia, a developmental condition of the hip joint that can lead to arthritis and mobility problems later in life  
- Eye conditions such as entropion, cataracts, or other inherited eye diseases  
- Certain skin problems, which can be linked to allergies or infections  
- Benign skin growths and lumps in older dogs, which should always be checked by a vet  

Good breeders usually carry out recommended health testing before breeding their dogs. While the exact schemes vary by country, typical tests may include:

- Hip scoring or evaluation, to reduce the risk of hip dysplasia in offspring  
- Eye examinations by a veterinary ophthalmologist, repeated regularly to monitor for hereditary issues  
- In some regions, additional genetic tests that become available as research develops  

Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders about:

- What health tests have been carried out on the parents  
- The results of those tests  
- The typical lifespan and health history of relatives such as grandparents and siblings  

Routine veterinary care plays a big role in keeping a Kerry Blue Terrier healthy. This includes:

- Regular vaccinations and parasite control (fleas, ticks, worms)  
- Dental care, such as tooth brushing or dental chews, to prevent gum disease  
- Weight management to avoid obesity, which can worsen joint and heart problems  

The Kerry’s dense, soft coat can sometimes hide minor skin issues, so owners should make a habit of checking the skin during grooming sessions. Look for redness, hot spots, excessive scratching, or unusual odors, particularly in warm, damp areas like armpits, groin, and between the toes. Early treatment of skin problems is usually easier and more effective.

Like many medium breeds, Kerries can be prone to ear infections if the ears are not kept clean and dry. Regular inspection, gentle cleaning with a vet‑recommended solution, and careful drying after baths or swimming can help prevent trouble.

As Kerries age, they may show typical signs of senior dogs, such as stiffness after rest, reduced hearing, or changes in vision. Adjusting exercise levels, providing comfortable bedding, and offering ramps or steps to help them get into cars or onto favorite sofas can make a big difference to their quality of life. Most Kerries adapt well to the slower pace of old age as long as they are still included in family activities and given mental stimulation.

Overall, choosing a well bred puppy from health tested parents, keeping up with veterinary care, feeding a high quality diet, and maintaining a sensible weight are the best tools an owner has to support a long, healthy life for a Kerry Blue Terrier.


## History & Origins

The Kerry Blue Terrier comes from Ireland, where it has been valued for centuries as a versatile working dog. As the name suggests, the breed is closely associated with County Kerry in the south west of the country, a region known for its rugged landscape and strong farming traditions. While exact origins are difficult to prove, the Kerry Blue likely developed from local terrier types, possibly mixed with other breeds that arrived through trade and travel along the Irish coast.

Historically, the Kerry Blue Terrier was an all round farm dog. It was expected to tackle many tasks, including controlling rats and other vermin in barns, helping to hunt foxes and badgers, and even retrieving from water. There are stories of Kerries working as herding dogs for sheep and cattle, using a mix of determination and intelligence rather than sheer size. This background explains why the modern Kerry combines agility, courage, and a strong prey drive with a good deal of problem solving ability.

By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the Kerry Blue Terrier began to appear more often in dog shows and breeding programs. Irish patriots at the time saw the breed as a symbol of national identity, and it quickly gained popularity beyond its home region. Carefully planned breeding focused not only on working qualities but also on improving the distinctive blue coat and refining the terrier outline that we recognize today.

The blue color itself is a striking feature that helped set the Kerry apart from other terriers. While many puppies start life black, experienced breeders knew that the right lines would gradually “clear” to blue or slate tones with age. This process of color change remains a characteristic of the breed and can fascinate new owners as they watch their puppy’s coat transform.

As dog showing grew in popularity across Europe and later around the world, the Kerry Blue Terrier spread to Britain, the rest of Europe, and North America. Breed clubs were formed to protect and promote the Kerry, and official standards were drawn up that described the ideal appearance and temperament.

Today, the Kerry Blue Terrier is less commonly used as a multipurpose farm dog, but its working instincts remain. Modern Kerries are often seen in:

- Conformation shows, where their distinctive looks and movement are judged  
- Dog sports such as agility, obedience, and rally  
- Activities that use their natural scenting ability, including tracking and scent work  

Most importantly, the Kerry Blue Terrier has become a cherished companion and family dog. While numbers are not as high as some more fashionable breeds, a devoted group of breeders and owners around the world continue to safeguard its health, working traits, and spirited character. For those who appreciate a dog with deep roots, strong personality, and proud Irish heritage, the Kerry Blue Terrier remains a very special choice.


## Living with the Breed

Living with a Kerry Blue Terrier is both rewarding and demanding. This is a breed that wants to be part of your life, not just a dog you see briefly on walks. Before bringing a Kerry into your home, it is important to understand the level of commitment involved.

First, consider time. Kerries thrive on daily interaction. They need regular walks, playtime, and mental stimulation, as well as grooming sessions every week. A typical Kerry owner will spend:

- At least one to two hours each day on walks, training, and active engagement  
- Additional time each week brushing, combing, and trimming the coat or visiting a professional groomer  

If you are away from home for long stretches and cannot arrange dog walkers, day care, or family support, a Kerry Blue Terrier may become frustrated or bored. This can lead to barking, chewing, or digging. These behaviors are not signs of a “bad” dog, but rather a dog whose needs are not being fully met.

Financially, owning a Kerry Blue Terrier involves normal dog costs such as food, vaccinations, and vet checks, along with higher grooming expenses compared to many short coated breeds. Annual costs can vary widely between countries, but you should budget for:

- Quality dog food suitable for a medium, active breed  
- Routine veterinary care, vaccinations, and parasite control  
- Pet insurance or a savings plan for unexpected health issues  
- Regular professional grooming if you do not trim the coat yourself  

Useful equipment for a Kerry household includes:

- A sturdy, comfortable collar and well fitting harness  
- A strong lead of suitable length, and possibly a long training line for recall work  
- A crate or safe resting area where the dog can relax undisturbed  
- Several chew toys and interactive toys to keep the mind occupied  
- Grooming tools such as a pin brush, slicker brush, metal comb, nail clippers, and ear cleaning solution  

Kerries generally adapt well to different living environments as long as their exercise needs are met. They can live happily in a house with a garden or in an apartment with good access to outdoor spaces. A secure, fenced garden is extremely helpful, as it allows free play and safe exploration. Fencing must be solid and high enough, since a determined Kerry can be quite inventive about finding escapes.

Inside the home, Kerries like to be where the family is. Many enjoy curling up on the sofa or lying at their owner’s feet. They are not typically outdoor kennel dogs and do not do well if isolated in the yard for long periods. Early training about household rules is important, whether that means teaching the dog which furniture is allowed or where its bed is located.

When considering other pets, it is wise to plan carefully. Some Kerries live peacefully with a resident dog or cat, especially if introduced correctly and supervised. Others prefer to be the only dog. Honest discussion with breeders, who know their lines and individual puppies, can help match the right personality to your household.

For families with children, teaching both the dog and the children appropriate behavior is crucial. Kerries enjoy lively play but should be able to retreat to a quiet safe space when they need a break. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting, and rough games like pulling the beard or climbing on the dog should be avoided.

If you enjoy training, outdoor activities, and spending real time with your dog, living with a Kerry Blue Terrier can bring enormous joy. You will have a loyal, entertaining companion that makes you laugh, keeps you moving, and shares your daily life with enthusiasm. If you prefer a low maintenance, very easygoing dog, another breed might suit you better. For the right owner, however, the Kerry’s bold spirit and affectionate heart make it a truly unforgettable partner.

Kerry Blue Terrier

The United Kingdom Kerry Blue Terrier Association

The Kennel Club (UK) - Kerry Blue Terrier

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Kerry Blue Terrier

Dansk Terrier Klub (Denmark)

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Medium, athletic Irish terrier with a proud outline and curly blue coat that matures from black. Lively, intelligent, and strongly bonded to family, it needs daily mental and physical exercise. Low‑shedding but high‑grooming, with bold, watchful, sometimes dog‑assertive temperament.

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