## Quick Facts

The Bostonterrier is a small American companion dog whose breed standard calls for a friendly, lively and intelligent temperament. It is often sociable and keen to take part, but its short muzzle makes breathing and temperature regulation important points to check, both when choosing a puppy and when planning daily exercise.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Size:** The breed standard has three weight classes: under 6.8 kg, 6.8–9 kg and 9–11.3 kg. It gives no official height at the withers.
- **Coat:** Short, smooth and easy to care for.
- **Activity:** A lively dog that needs physical and mental activity every day, with the amount adjusted to the individual dog's breathing, age, fitness and the weather.
- **Before buying:** Ask to see both parents' respiratory assessment, eye examination and patella results, together with their DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bostonterrier should be compact, well balanced and free-moving, without exaggeration in any feature. The head is short, but under the breed standard the muzzle must be no longer than one third of the length of the skull. The nostrils should be open, the eyes should not be excessively prominent and the short tail should be natural from birth.

Accepted colours are brindle, seal or black with white markings. The white markings are an important part of the breed's appearance, but colour and symmetry say nothing about health. Function matters more: the dog should be able to breathe freely, move without restriction and close its eyelids properly.

The short, close coat generally needs little work. Brush and bathe as required, and check the nails, teeth, ears and eyes regularly.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bostonterrier should be friendly, lively and intelligent, and many individuals actively seek human company and want to be involved in daily life. Even so, this does not guarantee that every dog will be comfortable with children, unfamiliar dogs or new environments.

Genetics, early experience, health and training all shape the individual dog. Ask the breeder how the parents behave in ordinary life: how they recover after something unexpected, greet people, cope with other dogs and settle at home. If possible, meet the dam and watch her in a normal situation, rather than only when the puppies are excited.

The breed can be both playful and focused. Reward-based training with clear breaks is usually more suitable than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Teach calm behaviour, comfortable handling around the eyes and paws, recall, and the ability to wait without becoming overexcited from an early age.

## Training & Exercise

A Bostonterrier needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no safe number of minutes that suits every dog. Combine walks with scent work, short training sessions, play and quiet recovery. A healthy dog with good respiratory function may enjoy a range of dog sports, while a dog that develops noisy or laboured breathing needs a veterinary assessment and adapted activity.

Judge exercise by how the dog breathes and recovers, not by how keen it is to carry on. Stop and move the dog to a cool place if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, if it slows down, struggles to recover or seems unusually hot. Bluish mucous membranes, weakness, collapse or marked breathing difficulty require emergency veterinary care.

Short-muzzled dogs are particularly sensitive to heat because panting is less effective at cooling them. Exercise during the cooler parts of the day, offer water and avoid strenuous activity in hot or humid weather. Excess weight places more strain on the airways and joints, so monitor body condition rather than relying only on the number on the scales.

## Health

The main health checks for a Bostonterrier concern respiratory function, eye health, patella status and early-onset juvenile cataract. Ask for actual examination results for both parents; an energetic impression or quiet breathing during a brief meeting is not a substitute for documentation.

BOAS is an umbrella term for breathing problems that can occur when a short muzzle and the soft tissues in the nose and throat restrict airflow. Snoring should therefore not automatically be dismissed as a harmless breed trait. Look out for breathing noise at rest, laboured inhalation, poor stamina, prolonged recovery, disturbed sleep, heat intolerance or fainting.

The RFG Scheme is a standardised veterinary assessment of respiratory function. The dog is assessed before and after three minutes of brisk movement and receives a grade from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected; grades 2 and 3 indicate clinical impairment. Results from dogs aged at least 24 months are registered centrally, while results from younger dogs are recorded as preliminary.

Since May 2026, RFG results for Bostonterriers can be registered centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club, but the assessment is not currently mandatory before breeding for this breed. This should not be confused with the Swedish Kennel Club's general breeding recommendation, which gives first preference to grade 0, or with the breed club's conditions for listing a litter through its puppy referral service.

The eyes are relatively large and exposed. Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, keeps one eye closed, rubs it with a paw, or develops a red, watery or cloudy eye; eye pain is treated as an emergency. Early-onset juvenile cataract is a recessively inherited disease affecting both eyes and can cause blindness early in life. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, carries one copy of the disease variant or has inherited it from both parents. Mating two carriers can produce genetically affected puppies and should therefore be avoided.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of position, also occurs in the breed. When a litter is to be included in its puppy referral service, Svenska Bostonterrierklubben asks for details of the parents' latest eye examination, patella results and DNA test or evidence of clear-by-parentage status for juvenile cataract. This is valuable information for a buyer, but it should not be described as a binding registration requirement for every litter.

## History & Origins

The Bostonterrier was developed in and around Boston, Massachusetts, during the latter part of the nineteenth century. Purposeful breeding took shape roughly between 1870 and 1890, but the earliest crosses are not fully documented. The breed can therefore be described as having been developed from the bulldog and terrier types of the time, but no exact mixture can be stated with certainty.

The American Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1893. Over time, it developed from heavier predecessors into the smaller, elegant companion described by today's breed standard. The Bostonterrier is now an internationally recognised breed with the United States as its country of origin.

## Living with the Breed

A Bostonterrier can live successfully in a flat or a house, but the size of the home does not decide whether daily life will work. The dog needs physical and mental activity every day, an undisturbed place to rest, and practice settling when nothing is happening. Barking and sensitivity to noise vary between individuals; if quiet living matters, ask how the parents behave at home.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Start with very short, calm separations and increase the time only while the dog can settle. For dogs kept in Sweden, the Swedish Board of Agriculture states that dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings.

With children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the breed's reputation as a family dog. Children should not lift the dog, pull its ears or approach it while it is eating or sleeping. Introductions to cats and other dogs should be calm and controlled. Previous experience and the individual dog's behaviour carry more weight than the breed name.

Before buying, ask the breeder to show:

- both parents' RFG results and their ages when assessed;
- the latest eye examination and patella results;
- registered DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract and how it informed the mating;
- how close relatives fare in terms of breathing, eyes, knees and everyday temperament;
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different surfaces, people and ordinary household sounds.

This provides a better basis for a decision than promises that the breed is always easy, quiet or problem-free.

Bostonterrier

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Bostonterrier is a small, sturdy, people‑focused companion with a square build and short, tuxedo‑patterned coat. Cheerful, affectionate, and adaptable, it enjoys both play and relaxing with its family. Grooming is simple, but its short nose and prominent eyes need extra health care.

G-Klaven's

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Kari Anderssen

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Rune Jørgensen

Tenna Annika Schannong Pelsen

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Finda

## Quick Facts

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the United States as a herding and working dog and suits people who want to train and work with their dog every day. It is quick, responsive and versatile, but its working drive and guarding and herding instincts mean it is rarely suited to someone primarily looking for an undemanding companion.

- The breed belongs to FCI Group 1 and was developed to work sheep and cattle on farms and ranches.
- Desirable height at the withers is 51–58 cm for males and 46–53 cm for females. The breed standard gives no ideal weight.
- The coat is medium-length, weather-resistant and has an undercoat. The base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red, with or without white markings and tan points.
- The tail may be naturally long or short. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.
- An Australian Shepherd needs daily physical activity, problem-solving, co-operation and opportunities to settle.
- For Swedish breeding dogs, official hip dysplasia (HD) status and known mental status through an MH assessment are key checks. MH records reactions; it is not a pass-or-fail test.

## Appearance & Coat

The Australian Shepherd is a medium-sized, well-balanced and mobile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. It should be muscular and solid without becoming heavy or clumsy, because its construction must allow quick changes of direction and sustained work. The standard specifies desirable height but no ideal weight. Assess an adult by its proportions, body condition, movement and function rather than relying on a weight range said to come from the standard.

The coat is straight to wavy, medium-length and weather-resistant. The amount of undercoat varies with factors including climate and season. A correct coat needs regular combing and closer checks during shedding, but not an identical weekly schedule for every dog. Feel through the coat to the skin and pay particular attention to areas where friction can easily cause tangles, such as behind the ears and in the feathering. Check the skin, paws and nails at the same time after work in woodland or rough ground.

The four base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red. All may occur with or without white markings and tan points. Eyes may be brown, blue or amber, including combinations, flecks and marbling. Different-coloured eyes are therefore permitted and, by themselves, say nothing about the dog's temperament.

The tail may be naturally long or naturally short. The latter is often called NBT, natural bobtail, and must not be confused with a docked tail. The Swedish Kennel Club registers the breed with a tail designation showing whether the dog has a full-length tail, a bobtail, a tail shorter than normal, no tail or a docked tail. For a puppy buyer, the registration entry is better evidence than guessing from a photograph.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Australian Shepherd should be an intelligent working dog with strong herding and guarding instincts, an even disposition and a good-natured manner. It may be reserved when first meeting strangers, but breed-typical neutrality is not the same as fear or aggression. The Swedish Australian Shepherd Club therefore emphasises that neutral is a clearer term than reserved.

There is considerable variation between individuals and families. Some dogs work very intensely in relation to people and their surroundings, while others are more balanced in everyday life; the strength of herding, guarding, sound reactions and social interest can also differ. Labels such as working line or show line are not enough to predict a puppy's temperament. Look instead at the parents, mature close relatives, the breeder's goals, working records and documented mental assessments.

As a herding dog, the breed uses its body and movement to control livestock. This can produce a strong interest in things that move. In daily life, a dog may want to follow, stop or control running children, bicycles, joggers or other animals. This is a possible breed trait, not something every Australian Shepherd does and not an excuse to let the behaviour continue. Distance, a lead or barrier, a trained alternative and rewards for checking in make the situation safer while the skill is being taught.

MH is particularly useful when comparing breeding dogs and relatives. The assessment records how a dog reacted to contact, handling, play, surprises, noise and gunshots, among other things. It cannot on its own predict how a puppy will develop, and it does not measure the whole of working ability. Read the full record and ask how the dog behaves and recovers in ordinary environments.

## Training & Exercise

An Australian Shepherd needs both movement and tasks involving scent work, problem-solving and co-operation every day, but a fixed number of hours does not describe what an individual dog needs. A calm woodland walk, tracking or searching, everyday obedience, herding, working trials, agility and other well-planned training place different demands on the dog. Adapt volume and intensity to age, health, previous conditioning and recovery.

A manageable daily life requires more than making the dog physically tired. Prioritise the following from an early age:

- engagement and responsiveness even when something is moving nearby,
- recall, first practised in an easy setting and secured with a long line when needed,
- loose-lead walking, handling and the ability to wait,
- a clear transition between activity and calm,
- the ability to disengage from following or controlling children, vehicles and animals.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and adapted to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means accidentally rewarded habits can become established quickly. Make the desired behaviour easy to choose, increase difficulty gradually and do not use fear, threats or physical punishment.

Puppies and young dogs need movement, environmental experience, rest and short learning sessions, not an adult dog's workload or an exercise schedule based on a fixed number of minutes. The aim is a dog that can work with commitment, remain responsive and then settle. If activity increases while the dog finds it harder to sleep, relax or cope with everyday stimuli, the plan needs reviewing rather than simply adding more speed.

## Health

For a Swedish puppy buyer, the crucial distinction is between binding registration rules, breed-club recommendations and optional DNA tests. Under the current Swedish Kennel Club rules, official hip dysplasia status is required before mating and, for resident Swedish breeding dogs covered by the rules, known mental status through a complete MH assessment is also required. Known status does not automatically mean a good hip result or a desirable mental profile; check the actual result.

In its breed-specific breeding strategy, SASK generally recommends hip grades A or B and an eye examination for breeding dogs. The club also highlights the value of checking hip results in close relatives because the breed has no hip index. Elbow dysplasia (ED) screening is voluntary and is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Ask the breeder to show what was actually examined, on which dog, on what date and with what result rather than accepting the phrase health tested.

DNA tests are available for CEA, HSF4 and MDR1, among others, but SASK does not prescribe one universal panel for every mating. Each test concerns a particular gene or risk variant. A clear HSF4 result, for example, does not rule out every form of cataract and does not replace a clinical eye examination. Relevant tests are selected according to documented risks in the family and the planned mating.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, can affect how certain medicines are distributed in the body and reach the brain. An individual dog's status cannot be determined from its appearance. If the dog has been tested, the result should be recorded in its veterinary notes; medicine selection and dosage always belong with the veterinarian.

Two merle dogs should not be mated. The combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle variant and an increased risk of deafness and visual or eye abnormalities. The naturally short NBT tail has a different genetic basis. SASK recommends caution with matings in which both parents carry the NBT variant as well, but the two issues should not be confused.

## History & Origins

Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd as it is known today was developed in the United States. The FCI standard links the name to Basque shepherds who came to the United States from Australia during the nineteenth century. The precise contribution of older herding dogs is less certain, so a detailed account of a fixed breed recipe should be treated as theory.

American sheep and cattle farmers continued selecting dogs for versatility, independent work, intelligence and herding ability. After the Second World War, awareness of the breed grew as Western riding, rodeos, horse shows, films and television reached a wider audience. The modern breed's American ranch background explains both the paradox in its name and why function remains central to its description.

## Living with the Breed

The Australian Shepherd is best suited to a routine that includes planned activity, learning and recovery even during ordinary working weeks. A large garden does not replace shared tasks, and competition ambitions are unnecessary if the dog still has a meaningful and varied life. Anyone wanting a dog that mainly joins shorter walks should choose a less demanding type.

With children, an adult should always be present, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the household needs a plan for high-energy play. Interrupt and create distance before the dog begins to fixate on or control movement. Children should not be responsible for situations in which a quick, strong dog may react to its surroundings.

Living with dogs or cats depends on the individuals and the introduction, not the breed name. Find out about the parents' and the particular dog's history. Begin calmly with separate safe spaces, a barrier and a lead, give the cat an unobstructed escape route and progress only when both animals can remain relaxed. Small pets may require permanent physical separation.

The breed can live in a flat if it gets enough time outdoors, meaningful tasks and rest, and the owner can manage reactions to noise. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners need to prevent noises in shared areas from prompting the dog to guard and bark. Time alone should be trained gradually and judged by the individual dog's behaviour. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is an outing guideline, not a measure of how long an individual is comfortable being alone.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registration numbers, hip results, full MH records, dates and results of eye examinations, and relevant DNA results. Also check the tail designation and working achievements, and ask how mature close relatives behave around people, noise, movement, rest and recovery. Those details say more about what daily life with the dog is likely to be like than colour, eyes or whether the breeder calls the dogs working-line or show-line.

Australian Shepherd

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

The Australian Shepherd is a medium, athletic herding dog, highly intelligent and energetic. Loyal and people oriented, it bonds closely and needs substantial daily exercise, training, and mental work. Its striking, weather resistant coat and varied eye colors add to its appeal.

Gyldenberg's Aussie

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

True Blizzards

## Quick Facts

- The Eurasier is a medium-sized German Spitz breed, developed as a companion dog and happiest when living closely with its family.
- Under the breed standard, males should measure 52–60 cm and weigh 22–30 kg. The corresponding ranges for females are 48–56 cm and 18–26 kg.
- The standard describes a calm, self-assured and attentive dog with a strong bond to its family, without being pushy with strangers.
- Reserve should not be confused with fear. Swedish BPH behaviour assessments show clear variation in social confidence within the breed.
- Eurasiers generally enjoy joining in with family activities without having the workload of a working breed. Exercise and training must still be tailored to the individual each day.
- The double coat generally needs brushing about once a week, and more often when the undercoat is being shed.
- In Swedish breeding, both parents must have an official hip score before mating. The breed club’s advice about results and other tests goes beyond the registration requirement itself.
- The breed suits someone who wants a close everyday companion and accepts an independent streak. It is less well suited to a life with little company or an expectation that the dog should greet everyone.

## Appearance & Coat

The Eurasier is a balanced, medium-sized Spitz. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, its ears are erect, and its bushy tail is carried over the back or curved to one side. Bone should be moderate, and the thick coat must not obscure the dog’s proportions. The overall impression should be functional and well balanced rather than heavy or excessively fluffy.

The standard gives ranges of 52–60 cm and 22–30 kg for males and 48–56 cm and 18–26 kg for females. These figures are a guide to the breed, not a promise of an individual puppy’s adult size. If size matters in practical terms, look at the parents and close relatives as well.

The coat consists of a dense, soft undercoat and medium-length, straight guard hairs that lie fairly loosely. Hair is shorter on the face, ears and fronts of the legs, and longer on the tail and backs of the legs. All colours and colour combinations are permitted under the current international standard except pure white and piebald.

In everyday life, a thorough brush about once a week is often enough. More frequent brushing is needed when the undercoat comes out once or twice a year, and the amount of loose hair can then be considerable. Use the opportunity to check the skin, nails, ears and teeth. Bathe the dog when it is dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The Eurasier should be calm, self-assured and even-tempered, with a strong attachment to its family and limited interest in making contact with strangers. This can make the breed appealing to people who want a dog that enjoys being close to its own family without automatically greeting everyone. It does not mean that every Eurasier will be quiet, confident or easy in every situation.

Swedish BPH results offer a more nuanced picture than the ideal set out in the standard. As a group, the dogs showed little interest in strangers, but their confidence during social encounters varied considerably. A dog that calmly chooses not to greet is reserved. A dog that flees, freezes or becomes highly distressed needs more distance and support. Reserve must not be used to excuse fear or threatening behaviour.

A puppy needs early, positive experiences of different people, environments, surfaces and everyday situations. The aim is not to have strangers pet the puppy, but for the dog to remain calm and secure even when it does not wish to interact. Let it observe from a distance at which it can still eat, explore and recover. Forced greetings can increase insecurity.

Eurasiers can live happily with children, dogs or other animals, but the breed name is no guarantee. A dog and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to handling, sudden movement and unfamiliar dogs. Where cats or small pets share the home, use calm introductions, secure separation and supervision while you learn about that individual dog’s chase behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

Eurasiers often learn quickly, but they were not developed for the sustained task work expected of a working breed. Clear routines, rewards the dog values and short sessions with an understandable goal tend to work best. Reward the behaviour you want to see again, making the task clear without damaging trust. Harsh corrections, intimidation and physical pressure have no place in training.

Everyday skills matter more than accumulating advanced exercises. Teach the dog to walk with you on a lead, wait, return when called, accept handling and settle when nothing is happening. Vary rewards between food, play, movement and access to things the dog wants to investigate. If the dog loses interest, reducing the difficulty or changing the task is often more useful than repeating the same cue.

The breed is generally happy to join walks and family outings without needing the workload of a dedicated working breed. A fixed number of exercise minutes says little about what a particular dog needs. A good day includes movement, opportunities to sniff, chances to solve problems and enough rest. Adjust this to age, health, weather and the dog’s recovery. Scent work, tracking, rally obedience, hoopers and other shared activities may suit the breed, but the individual dog’s motivation should guide your choice.

Recall still needs training, even if the dog likes to remain near its family. Neither a close family bond nor a reputation for low prey drive makes a dog safe off lead. Use a lead or long line wherever wildlife, traffic, other animals or local rules make off-lead exercise unsuitable.

## Health

The Eurasier is described as relatively healthy, but prospective owners should still check several health risks and breeding considerations. Begin by distinguishing SKK registration requirements from the breed club’s more extensive breeding recommendations.

For a Swedish litter to be registered, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The requirement is a known result, not necessarily grade A or B. The Swedish Eurasier Club recommends breeding dogs with HD A or B, ED 0 and patella 0. Ask to see the official results and, where possible, check siblings and previous offspring as well. Parental results reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

The breed club also recommends carefully planned pairings for Dandy-Walker-like malformation, DWLM. The variant is inherited recessively and can be identified with a DNA test. A clear dog can be mated to another clear dog or to a carrier, whereas two carriers must not be paired. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and need not be removed from breeding when its mate has tested clear. This distinction matters both for preventing affected puppies and for preserving genetic diversity.

The breed club also monitors reported cases of hypothyroidism, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, EPI/EPA, and gastric torsion. The club does not describe these as major problems in the breed, but it continues to collect information about them. Persistent tiredness with coat changes, or recurring diarrhoea with weight loss, therefore deserve attention. Suspected gastric torsion requires emergency veterinary care.

Ask the breeder about official joint and patella results, DWLM status and known diagnoses among the parents, siblings and previous offspring. A general assurance that the dogs in the family are ‘healthy’ is less informative than documented results and an open account of relatives’ health.

## History & Origins

The Eurasier is a young breed with a well-documented German origin. Julius Wipfel began the breeding programme in 1960 by combining the Chow Chow and the Wolfspitz, also known as the Keeshond. The early dogs were called Wolf-Chows. The Samoyed was introduced later, and the breed was renamed Eurasier to reflect its European and Asian origins.

The FCI recognised the Eurasier in 1973, and the first Eurasier arrived in Sweden in 1994. The breed has always been intended as a companion dog, and the international standard does not require a working trial. This helps explain why close family contact and a stable everyday temperament are central to the breed. Simplistic claims that each foundation breed supplied one particular trait are best avoided, however; today’s dogs vary both mentally and physically.

## Living with the Breed

The Eurasier is best suited to a home where the dog takes part in everyday life. It can live in a flat or a house, because the size of the home matters less than the routine around exercise, rest, noise and company. A garden does not replace walks or family contact, and the breed’s background makes it unsuitable for living mainly alone in an outdoor kennel.

Time alone must be taught gradually once a puppy feels secure in its new home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains settled before, during and after you leave. Dogs learn this at different rates. Plan daily life around the individual dog you have, not a supposed breed limit measured in hours.

For families with children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the label ‘family dog’. Where cats or small pets are present, secure boundaries and controlled introductions matter more than assumptions about prey drive. Anyone who wants to do a great deal of training should meet the parents and ask what motivates them, how they cope with handling and how they recover in unfamiliar environments.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the registration certificate, sales contract, a current veterinary inspection certificate and documented health information for the parents. Meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look in particular at whether they can remain calmly neutral towards strangers without fleeing, freezing or being pressed into contact. A carefully planned Eurasier litter should make sense both on paper and in the life you can offer.

Eurasier

German Kennel Club (VDH)

Eurasier Klub e.V. Sitz Weinheim (EKW)

The Eurasier Society UK

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

The Eurasier is a medium, plush-coated Spitz bred as a calm family companion. Sensitive and deeply bonded to its people, it prefers a peaceful home, is reserved but non-aggressive with strangers, needs moderate daily walks, mental games, gentle training, and regular coat care.

Hege Kristin Trulsen

Broholmer

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Broholmerselskabet (Denmark Broholmer Society)

The Broholmer is a large, calm Danish mastiff-type guardian, devoted to its family and home. Steady, watchful, and typically gentle, it needs moderate exercise, mental stimulation, and close companionship. Still rare outside Scandinavia, breeding emphasizes health and stable temperament.

Øster Thorsgaards

## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Tincanis

## Quick Facts

- Tiny companion breed from the Czech Republic, traditionally used as a nimble ratter in castles and city homes  
- Very small and lightweight, yet surprisingly athletic and confident in attitude  
- Strong bond with their people, often choosing one favorite person while still loving the whole family  
- Short, easy care coat, but they feel the cold and usually need a sweater or coat in cooler weather  
- Alert watchdog with a big voice for such a small body, making them excellent little house guardians  

## Appearance & Coat

The Prague Ratter is one of the smallest dog breeds in the world, but their presence feels much larger than their size. Most adults stand around 20 to 23 centimeters at the shoulder and weigh between 1.5 and 3.5 kilograms. They are compact, well balanced and lightly built, with a fine bone structure that still feels surprisingly sturdy in the hand. Their body is slightly longer than tall, with a graceful neck and an elegant, almost toy like silhouette.

The head is small and refined, with a gently rounded skull and a narrow muzzle that tapers without appearing snippy. Dark, expressive eyes give the Prague Ratter a lively and alert expression that many owners describe as nearly human. Ears are usually set high and carried erect, which adds to their inquisitive look. The tail may be natural or docked depending on local regulations, but in motion it often curves slightly and shows how much they enjoy life.

The coat of the Prague Ratter is most commonly short, smooth and tight to the body, with a glossy shine when in good condition. There is also a longer coated variety, sometimes with light feathering on ears, legs and tail, although the short coat is still much more widespread. Classic coloring for the breed is black and tan, with rich tan markings above the eyes, on the cheeks, chest, legs and under the tail. However, other colors exist, such as brown and tan, blue and tan, red, yellow and occasionally merle in some lines where it is allowed.

Caring for the coat is generally straightforward, which is one reason the Prague Ratter appeals to many modern owners. A weekly brush with a soft bristle brush or grooming glove is usually enough to remove loose hairs and keep the coat shiny. During seasonal shedding periods, brushing two or three times a week can help reduce hair around the house. Because the coat is so short, skin health is particularly important. Use mild dog shampoo, avoid over bathing, and check regularly for dry patches or irritation.

Their small size means they feel temperature changes quite strongly. In cool or wet weather, most Prague Ratters appreciate a light coat or sweater, especially on windy days. In winter in colder climates, a warm jacket and even small dog boots can be useful for longer walks, as salt and ice may irritate their delicate paws. Regular nail trimming, ear cleaning and dental care are also essential, since many toy breeds are prone to dental tartar and gum issues. With a simple but consistent grooming routine, a Prague Ratter will stay neat and comfortable with very little fuss.

## Temperament & Personality

The Prague Ratter is often described as a big dog in a tiny body. They are confident, spirited and curious, and they love to be involved in everything their family does. In daily life, you can expect a Prague Ratter to follow you from room to room, jump onto the sofa to sit beside you, and quickly learn the sounds of your routine. They thrive on human company and usually do not enjoy being left alone for long periods.

With their families, Prague Ratters tend to be very affectionate and loyal. Many form a particularly close bond with one person, often the main caregiver, while still being friendly and cuddly with other family members. They like to burrow under blankets, curl up on laps, and sleep close to their people at night. For some owners this closeness is the best part of living with the breed, but it also means that these dogs can become quite dependent and may develop separation anxiety if not trained to be comfortable alone.

Around children, the Prague Ratter can be a loving and playful companion, but their tiny size requires careful supervision. Well raised children who understand how to be gentle can enjoy teaching tricks, playing short games of fetch or simply cuddling on the sofa. However, rough handling, squeezing or accidental dropping can seriously injure such a small dog. Families with very young or boisterous children must think honestly about whether everyone can respect the physical limits of the breed.

With other dogs, Prague Ratters are often confident and sometimes a little too bold. They may challenge much larger dogs without realizing how small they really are. Early socialization in safe environments is important, so they learn to read other dogs correctly and to interact politely. With other small dogs they usually get along well, especially if introduced gradually. Their original role as a ratter means that many keep a strong prey drive, so caution is needed with pet rodents, small birds or free roaming rabbits. Some can live with cats, especially if raised together from puppyhood, but many will still chase if the cat runs.

One notable personality trait of the Prague Ratter is their alertness. They notice every sound in the hallway, footsteps outside the door, and cars arriving at the house. This makes them excellent little watchdogs, but it can also lead to nuisance barking if not managed. Teaching a reliable “quiet” cue and rewarding calm behavior works better than scolding. Because they are intelligent and eager to please, Prague Ratters respond well to gentle, reward based training that makes them think and keeps them included.

Potential challenges include:

- Tendency to bark at noises or strangers  
- Strong attachment that can turn into separation anxiety  
- Prey drive towards small animals  
- Overconfidence with larger dogs

For owners who can provide structure, patience and plenty of closeness, the Prague Ratter is a deeply loving companion with a lively, entertaining personality that fills the home with energy.

## Training & Exercise

Despite their tiny body, the Prague Ratter is an active and quick thinking dog that truly enjoys training. They are usually food motivated, curious and eager to be part of whatever their person is doing. This combination means that, with the right approach, training can be both effective and great fun for everyone.

The best training methods for a Prague Ratter are positive and encouraging. They respond very well to:

- Small, tasty treats as rewards  
- Verbal praise delivered in a warm, happy tone  
- Short, varied sessions that keep boredom away  
- Games that let them use both body and brain  

Harsh corrections, shouting or physical punishment can damage their trust and may make them anxious or defensive. Given their sensitive nature, it is much more successful to guide them gently and reward what you like, rather than focusing heavily on what you do not want.

Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, recall and walking nicely on a leash should start early. Because of their size, some owners fall into the trap of carrying them everywhere and allowing pushy behaviors that would never be accepted in a larger dog. It is important to remember that a Prague Ratter is still a dog, not a toy, and needs the same clear boundaries and consistent rules as any other breed. Teaching them to walk on their own four paws, wait calmly at doors, and greet people politely helps prevent “small dog syndrome” and makes daily life easier.

Exercise needs are moderate but not negligible. A Prague Ratter does not require long mountain hikes, but they do enjoy several short walks every day, along with time to sniff, explore and play. Many adults are happy with around 45 to 60 minutes of activity spread throughout the day, adapted to their age and health. This might include:

- Two or three brisk walks of 10 to 20 minutes each  
- Play sessions at home such as fetch or tug with safe, lightweight toys  
- Short indoor training games on rainy or very cold days  

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Because of their history as ratters, many Prague Ratters enjoy nose work games, searching for treats hidden in folded towels or simple puzzle toys. Some take to beginner level agility, trick training or mini obedience competitions. These activities help to channel their natural alertness and intelligence, and they also strengthen the bond between dog and owner.

Owners should keep in mind that the Prague Ratter is small and can tire more quickly than a larger, athletic breed, especially on rough terrain or in extreme temperatures. Watch for signs of fatigue, such as lagging behind, panting heavily or refusing to continue. In hot weather, avoid walking in the full midday sun and offer water frequently. In cold weather, keep walks shorter and use dog clothing to protect their body and paws.

Early socialization is a key part of training. Expose your Prague Ratter puppy to different people, gentle dogs, vehicles, sounds and environments in a positive, controlled way. Reward calm curiosity and allow them to retreat if something worries them, rather than forcing contact. A well socialized Prague Ratter is far less likely to develop fearfulness or sharpness in adulthood.

When training and exercise are tailored to their size and temperament, Prague Ratters become delightful, manageable companions who enjoy learning, exploring and being by your side in everyday life.

## Health

Although usually a robust and lively little dog, the Prague Ratter does have some health issues that owners and breeders should be aware of. Responsible breeding, routine veterinary care and careful daily management all play an important role in keeping this breed healthy over the long term.

Common health concerns in Prague Ratters can include:

- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap slips out of place, causing lameness or hopping  
- Dental problems such as tartar build up, gum disease and retained baby teeth, which are common in many toy breeds  
- Fragile bones in very small individuals, leading to a risk of fractures from jumping or accidental falls  
- Heart issues in some lines, particularly valve diseases that may appear with age  
- Eye conditions such as cataracts or dry eye in certain bloodlines  

Because of these potential problems, many breed clubs and responsible breeders recommend specific health tests. These may include veterinary examination of the knees to check for patellar luxation, eye examinations by a specialist, and in some cases heart evaluations. Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders what health checks have been carried out on the parents, and requesting to see the relevant documentation.

Lifespan for a well cared for Prague Ratter is often between 12 and 15 years, and many remain active and playful well into their senior years. To support a long and healthy life, owners should focus on several key areas.

Firstly, weight management is essential. Even a small amount of extra weight is significant on such a tiny frame and can increase the strain on joints, heart and other organs. Feed a high quality, age appropriate diet and measure portions carefully. Treats should make up only a small part of daily calorie intake. It is easy to spoil such a small, cute dog with snacks, but their body will thank you for moderation.

Secondly, dental care deserves special attention. Daily or at least frequent tooth brushing with dog safe toothpaste helps to prevent plaque and tartar buildup. Regular dental check ups with the vet allow early intervention if problems arise. Many Prague Ratters accept tooth brushing readily if introduced gradually with patience and rewards.

Thirdly, owners should protect their dog from accidents and injuries. Avoid allowing a Prague Ratter to jump from high furniture or run up and down steep stairs repeatedly. Train them to use ramps or small steps to reach sofas or beds if they are allowed on furniture. When out on walks, use a lightweight harness instead of a collar for leash attachment, to avoid pressure on the delicate neck and trachea.

Routine preventive care such as vaccinations, parasite control, and annual health checks are also important. Senior Prague Ratters may benefit from more frequent veterinary visits to monitor heart function, joints, dental health and general condition. Early detection of changes, such as weight loss, coughing, stiffness or increased thirst, can greatly improve the success of treatment.

Breeders who care about the future of the Prague Ratter focus not only on appearance but also on solid health, sound temperament and appropriate size. As a buyer or owner, supporting these efforts by choosing responsible breeders and following veterinary advice will help to keep this charming little breed healthy and happy for generations to come.

## History & Origins

The Prague Ratter, known in its homeland as Pražský krysařík, has a history that stretches back many centuries in the Czech lands and neighboring regions. While the exact origins are not fully documented, it is widely believed that small, agile terrier type dogs were kept in royal courts, castles and city houses to control rats and other vermin. Their compact size, quick reflexes and keen hunting instinct made them extremely effective at this job.

Historical records and paintings from Central Europe show tiny black and tan dogs at the side of nobility and in the bustling streets of medieval towns. These early Prague Ratters were valued not only as working ratters but also as charming companions, often living close to their owners and sharing their daily life. Their presence in royal courts helped spread their reputation abroad as well, and small dogs similar to the Prague Ratter appeared in other European countries.

Over time, changes in living conditions, urban development and the introduction of other fashionable toy breeds led to a decline in the popularity of the Prague Ratter. For a period, the breed seemed at risk of disappearing, kept mainly by a small number of enthusiasts in rural areas and by families who valued them as traditional rat catchers and house companions.

In the late 20th century, interest in native breeds and cultural heritage in the Czech Republic led to renewed efforts to preserve and standardize the Prague Ratter. Dedicated breeders began to select carefully for type, temperament and health, and a modern breed standard was created. This work helped the Prague Ratter move from a nearly forgotten local dog to an internationally recognized companion breed with growing popularity in various European countries and beyond.

Today, the Prague Ratter is no longer relied on as a working ratter in most homes, although many still show a strong instinct to chase mice and small pests if they get the chance. Instead, the breed is primarily a beloved companion, valued for its affectionate nature, intelligence and compact size that fits well into modern city living. In some countries, Prague Ratters can also be seen in dog sports such as agility, obedience or trick competitions, where their lively character and quick learning stand out.

Breed clubs in the Czech Republic, France, Scandinavia and other regions now work together to maintain and promote the Prague Ratter. The focus is on preserving its historic charm and usefulness as a small, alert and loving family dog, while ensuring solid health and stable temperament. For people who appreciate a breed with deep local roots and a story that connects royal courts, city alleys and modern apartments, the Prague Ratter carries a rich and fascinating heritage in a very tiny body.

## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Prague Ratter is often described as having a tiny shadow with a huge personality. This breed thrives on being close to their people and is best suited to owners who enjoy a dog that wants to be involved in daily routines rather than lying quietly in a corner. If you like a dog that sits on your lap while you work, curls up under the blanket in the evening and greets you joyfully after even short absences, the Prague Ratter can be a wonderful match.

Prospective owners should be prepared for a relatively high level of emotional commitment. These dogs form strong attachments and can be sensitive to changes in routine, raised voices or family tension. They do best in homes where they are treated as a true family member and where someone is usually present for much of the day. A Prague Ratter left alone regularly for long hours may develop barking, destructive behavior or anxiety.

From a practical point of view, their small size is both an advantage and a responsibility. On one hand, they fit easily into small apartments, and many landlords who accept dogs are more open to such a tiny breed. Daily exercise is relatively easy to provide, since shorter walks and indoor play can already meet a large part of their needs. On the other hand, owners must always be aware of physical risks, such as being stepped on, caught in a door, or injured by larger animals. Simple habits like checking where the dog is before moving a chair or closing a door become second nature.

Financially, annual costs for a Prague Ratter are often lower than for large dogs, particularly when it comes to food and some medications that depend on weight. However, there are still important expenses to consider:

- Purchase price from a responsible breeder  
- Vaccinations, routine veterinary checks and parasite control  
- Sterilization or castration if not used for breeding  
- Pet insurance or a savings fund for unexpected veterinary bills  
- Quality food, treats and dental care products  
- Equipment such as harnesses, collars, leashes, coats and bedding  

Because of the potential for dental and orthopedic issues, choosing a good pet insurance policy or setting aside money regularly for veterinary care is wise. Over the course of their life, preventive care, dental work and occasional testing can add up, even for a small dog.

Useful equipment for living with a Prague Ratter includes a comfortable, well fitting harness that does not rub under the arms; a lightweight leash; and a selection of soft, appropriately sized toys. Many owners find that puzzle feeders and treat balls help keep their dog mentally busy, especially on days when outdoor activity is limited. Several soft beds or blankets around the home allow the dog to rest near different family members. Warm coats and sweaters for winter, along with a rain jacket for wet weather, are more than a fashion choice for this breed, as they genuinely support their comfort and health.

Training should continue throughout the dog’s life, not just during puppyhood. Short daily sessions, even of only five minutes, keep their mind engaged and reinforce good manners. Basic house rules such as where the dog is allowed to go, how they greet visitors, and how they behave at mealtimes should be clear and consistent. Many behavior issues in small dogs arise simply because boundaries were never clearly set.

For families who understand toy breed needs and are willing to adapt their home and habits slightly, the Prague Ratter offers an enormous amount of joy in a very small package. Their combination of devotion, playfulness and intelligence makes them a rewarding companion for people across different ages, from active singles to older adults who want a dog that can participate fully in daily life without demanding extreme exercise. With care, patience and love, living with a Prague Ratter can feel like sharing your world with a brave and loyal little friend who never stops trying to be by your side.

Prague Ratter

Verein für Deutsche Spitze

Dansk Kennel Klub

Svenska Kennelklubben

British Veterinary Association

Club Français des Rats de Prague

The Prague Ratter is a tiny Czech companion once used for ratting, lively and athletic despite its size. It has a short, low‑maintenance coat but feels the cold. Very affectionate and people‑oriented, it’s an alert little watchdog that bonds closely with its family.

Prague Legacy

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Autumnville

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Danish Kennel Club

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Tuva Pedersen

Marit Elisabeth Cronin

Pixbo

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Våra Rosenknoppar

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

CamiRoses

LouMaBe

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Tailormade Jack´s

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

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