## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

Else Marie Pedersen driver oppdrett av dvergpuddel i Gratangen under kennelnavnet Fairytale Breeding's. Oppdrettet har også omfattet mellompuddel og toypuddel. En egenoppdrettet mellompuddel, født i 2018, hadde norsk utstillingschampiontittel i 2021. Kennelnavnet ble brukt for toypuddel i 2023, og i 2025 hadde en egenoppdrettet toypuddel norske og kroatiske championtitler samt norsk juniorchampiontittel. I 2026 ble kennelnavnet brukt på en egenoppdrettet dvergpuddel.

Else Marie Pedersen

## Quick Facts

- The Shih Tzu is a small, purebred companion dog with roots in Tibet and development in China; Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard.
- The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. The FCI recognises one Shih Tzu, not separate “mini”, “imperial” or “teacup” varieties.
- Typical traits include a friendly yet independent nature, an alert expression and a sturdy body that is slightly longer than it is tall.
- The long coat requires substantial care. A shorter pet trim reduces the workload but does not remove the need for brushing, bathing and checking the eyes, ears, paws and skin.
- Free, quiet breathing, non-prominent eyes and a functional mouth matter more than an extremely short muzzle or an exaggerated coat.
- A Shih Tzu can thrive in a flat, but still needs daily movement, mental stimulation and social contact.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shih Tzu is small but sturdily built, not a delicate miniature dog. The body length from the withers to the root of the tail should exceed the height at the withers. The chest is broad and deep, and the high-set tail is carried in a curve over the back. The head is broad and round. The muzzle is short and wide, but the nostrils should be well open and the eyes large without being prominent.

The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. Breed type and sound function should take priority over trying to produce the smallest possible dog. Terms such as “imperial” and “teacup” therefore do not describe recognised size varieties of the breed.

The coat consists of long, dense outer hair and a moderate undercoat that should not be woolly. It may be straight or slightly wavy, and all colours are permitted. The hair on the head creates the characteristic chrysanthemum-like expression, but it must not obstruct the dog’s vision. The coat must never be so long or heavy that it restricts movement.

A Shih Tzu in a full-length coat needs a consistent routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes regular baths, thorough drying and combing to prevent mats. Hair around the face needs to be kept clear of the eyes, and the coat should be worked through down to the skin so that small tangles do not become large and painful.

A clipped Shih Tzu is easier to care for, but not maintenance-free. The coat continues to grow and needs brushing, washing and clipping at an interval that suits the individual coat and daily life. The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic: how a person reacts to a dog cannot be determined by the coat’s appearance or the amount of visible hair in the home.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shih Tzu should be friendly, lively, alert and independent. This companion dog often enjoys taking part in family life, but its independence may show when the dog sees no point in a task. That gives the breed character and humour, but does not make every individual automatically cooperative in every situation.

Temperament varies between individuals and is shaped by breeding, early experiences and everyday training. The breed’s friendliness is therefore no guarantee that every Shih Tzu will love all children, dogs or cats. Life with children works best when they can handle the dog calmly, leave it undisturbed while resting and avoid carrying it without help. Young children and the dog should always have an adult close by.

Meetings with other dogs and cats should be built up gradually. A calm introduction and the option to move away matter more than the assumption that the breed always gets along with everyone. Some individuals are open from the start; others need more time.

A Shih Tzu may bark at sounds and visitors, but the amount of vocalisation varies and can be influenced by daily routines. Reward calm behaviour, give the dog an alternative to rushing to the door and avoid accidentally turning every alert bark into a major event.

## Training & Exercise

The Shih Tzu needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, even though the breed is not built for prolonged, strenuous work. Several walks with time to sniff, short play sessions and small training tasks usually provide a better day than one monotonous route. Distance and intensity must be adjusted to the dog’s age, fitness, the weather and its ability to breathe.

Short, clear training sessions suit the breed’s combination of intelligence and independence. Reward the behaviour you want and work on one thing at a time: engagement, recall, handling, lead walking and settling. House training is easier with frequent chances to go outside, predictable routines and an immediate reward outdoors; there is no evidence that every Shih Tzu is unusually easy or difficult to house-train.

Heat and breathing should determine the level of activity. A Shih Tzu that breathes with effort or noise, quickly loses pace or struggles to recover should not be pushed further. Exercise during cooler parts of the day in warm weather, and ask a veterinarian to assess recurring breathing noise or reduced stamina. Snoring and rattling breathing should not be dismissed as normal simply because the breed is short-muzzled.

Time alone should be taught gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase the duration only while the dog remains calm, and adjust the plan if it shows anxiety or discomfort. In Sweden, dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs generally need more frequent opportunities.

## Health

The main health checks for a Shih Tzu concern breathing, eyes, and the mouth and teeth. The breed can live a long life, and a large British veterinary-record study found an overall disorder pattern closer to dogs in general than to several other flat-faced breeds. That does not mean the risks associated with a shortened skull can be ignored.

The Shih Tzu can be affected by brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, BOAS. In a 2026 British study of 42 Shih Tzus, the breed was assessed as having a moderate risk of BOAS, and just under half of the dogs received grade 0. The sample was small and cannot describe the health of an individual dog, but it shows why breathing must be assessed in practice. Open nostrils, quiet breathing at rest and in motion, normal recovery and a healthy body condition are important signs. The study also found an association between body condition and BOAS grade in Shih Tzus.

The Respiratory Function Grading Scheme, or RFG Scheme, is a standardised functional assessment of breathing. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to introduce central recording of RFG results for Shih Tzus, but assessments can start only when trained veterinarians and the technical procedures are in place. Ask the breeder which breathing assessments have actually been completed and check the current status with the Swedish Kennel Club.

The eyes should be large but not prominent. The Swedish Kennel Club’s breed-specific instructions identify excessively prominent eyes as a risk area, while British health guidance recommends eye screening before breeding. Seek veterinary care promptly if the dog suddenly squints, rubs an eye, or develops marked redness, cloudiness or heavy discharge; corneal injuries are painful and need examination.

The mouth is another priority because the Swedish instructions warn about a narrow lower jaw and poor dental status. In a British study of 11,082 Shih Tzus, disease affecting the gums and supporting structures of the teeth was the most frequently recorded diagnosis. The same study also highlighted anal sac, ear and eye disorders. Daily brushing with dog toothpaste is the most effective home care against plaque; veterinary checks are still needed when tartar, bad breath, bleeding gums or difficulty chewing appear.

The study reported an average age at death of 12.7 years in the British population examined. This is a population measure, not a promise for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Shih Tzu has its roots in Tibet but was developed as a breed in China, where dogs of this type lived in the imperial palaces. The FCI lists Tibet (China) as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country responsible for the breed standard. The breed belongs to the companion-dog group and has never been subject to a working trial requirement.

The first documented import to Great Britain took place in 1931. Shih Tzus were initially shown alongside Lhasa Apsos, but differences in the head and overall type led to the Shih Tzu being recognised as a separate breed in 1934. It was registered separately by the British kennel club in 1940. The breed reached Scandinavia during the 1930s.

The verified history is clear without romantic embellishment: Tibetan roots, development in China and later standardisation in Great Britain. Today’s friendly but independent companion dog reflects the role the breed has long held close to people.

## Living with the Breed

The Shih Tzu is best suited to someone who wants a small, social companion and accepts that the coat, eyes, teeth and breathing require ongoing attention. The breed can suit both flats and houses; what matters is not the size of the home but whether the dog receives movement, scent work, rest, company and regular opportunities to go outside.

Daily life is easiest when grooming, toothbrushing and handling are introduced early in small steps. A dog kept in a short trim still needs to become comfortable with a brush, comb, bath, hair dryer, paw checks and touch around the face. Plan for recurring clipping at home or by a professional groomer as well.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and preferably more adult relatives in normal movement, not only while they are sitting still. Listen to their breathing before and after a short walk, look for open nostrils and eyes that are not prominent, and ask how the breeder monitors the eyes, mouth and teeth, and respiratory function. Ask to see the available examination results and compare them with current information from the Swedish Kennel Club.

The breed is less suitable if the dog will regularly be left alone for long days, if daily coat care is unrealistic or if you want a dog for strenuous exercise in warm weather. For a home that appreciates a close companion who is not always eager to comply, the Shih Tzu can be a very enjoyable choice, provided sound function takes priority over extreme appearance.

Shih Tzu

Small, sturdy companion dog from Tibetan and Chinese palaces, 4.5–8 kg with a long, flowing coat and chrysanthemum-like face. Affectionate, cheerful, and confident, it suits many homes. Needs moderate exercise, intensive grooming, and patient, reward-based training.

House of Shih-Tzu opdrætter Shih Tzu i Helsinge. I juni 2026 indgik navnet i DKK's kennelmærkeansøgninger sammen med navneforslagene Kløvermark og Shih-tzu Huset.

House of Shih-Tzu

## Quick Facts

- The West Highland White Terrier, often called a Westie, is a small but sturdy terrier from the Scottish Highlands.
- The breed stands about 28 centimetres at the withers and should combine strength, agility and considerable confidence in a small frame.
- The white double coat should be hand-stripped, not clipped. Allow for professional grooming about five or six times a year and a thorough comb-through every week.
- A Westie is typically alert, cheerful, courageous and friendly, although the terrier's independence and hunting background are often evident in daily life.
- Skin disease and itching are the breed's main documented health concern. Ask about skin and ear health in the family rather than relying on a generic panel of tests.
- Many Westies live for 12–15 years, but lifespan varies with the individual, health and living conditions.

## Appearance & Coat

The West Highland White Terrier is small, compact and much sturdier than its neat white outline might suggest. The breed standard describes a strongly built dog with a deep chest, level back, muscular legs and free movement. It stands about 28 centimetres at the withers. Dark eyes, small upright ears and a straight, jaunty tail create the characteristically alert expression.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat should be straight, harsh and about five centimetres long, while the undercoat should be short, soft and close. The colour is white. This texture is not merely a matter of appearance: a correctly maintained harsh coat repels a good deal of dirt and sheds relatively little hair around the home.

To retain that harsh texture, a Westie's mature outer coat should be removed by hand-stripping. The Swedish Kennel Club advises against clipping because it changes the coat quality. A knowledgeable groomer is normally needed five or six times a year. Between visits, comb the coat thoroughly once a week, paying particular attention beneath the abdomen and in the armpits and groin, where tangles form readily. Check the skin, ears, teeth, paws and nails at the same time. A well-maintained harsh coat does not need frequent bathing; when a bath is necessary, rinse a mild dog shampoo out thoroughly.

Low shedding does not make the breed allergy-safe. Dog allergens are present in skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, among other sources, and levels can differ greatly between two dogs of the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a Westie on the strength of claims about a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Westie is alert, outgoing, friendly and self-assured. It is a sociable little dog, but not one that automatically waits for instructions in every situation. Its background as a working terrier favoured initiative, stamina and courage. In a modern home, this may appear as intense curiosity, barking when something is heard or an immediate interest in movement.

A West Highland White Terrier can live happily in a family with children when the adults take responsibility for every interaction. A small child and a dog should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a private resting place where it will not be disturbed. A sturdy build does not mean the dog should tolerate being carried, restrained or disturbed while eating or sleeping.

How a Westie gets on with other dogs and cats depends more on the individual, experience and introductions than on a simple rule about the breed. Arrange calm meetings, give both animals plenty of space and stop before play becomes too intense. Small pets require greater caution. The breed was developed to pursue small quarry, so a cage or a history of peaceful contact is no guarantee once predatory behaviour is aroused.

Treat the breed description as an ideal, not a promise about every puppy. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, dog encounters, handling and unfamiliar environments, and whether they settle indoors. Those answers are more useful than labels such as “stubborn”, “good with children” or “easy-going”.

## Training & Exercise

The West Highland White Terrier needs physical activity, scent work and interaction every day, but no fixed time allowance suits every dog. A healthy adult can have a fulfilling routine built around varied walks, time to investigate smells, search games, play and short training sessions. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, health and weather. An appropriately active dog maintains a healthy body condition, moves without stiffness and can settle at home.

Reward-based training works for both everyday skills and challenges such as barking or unreliable recall. Make the right choice easy: create distance from a distraction, reward engagement and teach a specific alternative such as going to a bed or turning back towards you. Harsh corrections do not address the reason for a behaviour and can damage both welfare and cooperation.

Recall should be developed progressively, moving from simple settings to more difficult ones. Use a long line wherever wildlife, traffic or other powerful distractions would make failure dangerous. The aim is not to prove that the dog can be off lead, but to provide freedom without gambling with safety. Scent searches, everyday obedience, rally and suitably adapted agility can give a terrier clear tasks without demanding long, repetitive sessions.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Extend walks, surfaces and unfamiliar environments gradually, with ample time for recovery.

## Health

Skin disease and itching are the clearest documented health concern in the West Highland White Terrier. In the WestieAlliansen breed club's voluntary 2019 health survey, skin problems were reported in 92 of 535 dogs, or about 17 per cent. The survey was not statistically standardised, so the figure should not be treated as an exact prevalence for the whole breed. It does, however, explain why recurring itching, redness, paw licking and ear trouble deserve attention.

Seek veterinary help when itching recurs or does not resolve. Parasites, infection, allergy and other causes can produce similar signs but need different treatment. In the same survey, 59 of 535 dogs had ear trouble more than once a year, and skin and ear problems sometimes occurred together. Changing food, shampooing frequently or giving supplements without a diagnosis can delay appropriate care.

Craniomandibular osteopathy (CMO) and Legg–Perthes disease are documented but were reported infrequently in the survey: two and five dogs respectively. CMO can cause sudden pain and swelling in a puppy's jaw. A DNA test can assist breeding decisions, but the breed club's RAS document stresses that it indicates a level of risk rather than giving a definitive healthy-or-affected result.

The Swedish Kennel Club has not established a health programme for the breed. There is therefore no official breed requirement for a generic package of knee, hip and eye examinations, for example. Instead, ask the breeder to describe skin disease, itching and recurring ear or digestive problems in both parents, their siblings and previous offspring. Ask how older relatives are faring and whether litters are followed up at about one and three years of age. If CMO occurs in the family, the breeder should be able to explain how that information and any test results influenced the choice of parents.

A responsible breeder distinguishes clearly between Swedish Kennel Club rules, breed-club recommendations and voluntary checks of their own. Ask to see registered results and veterinary certificates where they exist, but also value specific answers about close relatives. The absence of a central programme does not mean the absence of inherited risks.

## History & Origins

The West Highland White Terrier comes from the western Scottish Highlands and was shaped as a small, agile working terrier. Rough-coated terriers went to ground after quarry including foxes and badgers and controlled rats and other small animals. The work called for courage, speed, strong jaws and the ability to make independent decisions in difficult terrain.

White dogs were easier to distinguish from quarry against the Scottish moorland. During the 1860s, Colonel Malcolm of Poltalloch began to favour white terriers, an important step in the development of the modern breed. The name West Highland White Terrier was established in 1905. Crosses with Cairn Terriers were still permitted until 1924, showing how closely related the Scottish terrier types remained while the breed was being formed.

Today the breed is kept mainly as a companion, but its historic working style can still be seen in an interest in scents, holes, movement and independent action. It also explains why obedience, agility and other activities are often a better fit than a life made up solely of brief toilet walks.

## Living with the Breed

A West Highland White Terrier can live in a flat or a house; the content of daily life matters more than the size of the home. In a block of flats, the owner needs to teach the dog to remain calm around sounds and movement near doors, communal areas and windows. A garden is useful, but it does not replace walks, new scents and training together.

Time alone should be taught gradually, using periods short enough for the dog to remain comfortable. Take a step back if the dog shows anxiety or distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog outside at least every six hours during the day concerns exercise and toileting; it is not a promise that every Westie will cope well with six hours alone. Puppies, older dogs and anxious individuals need closer supervision and more frequent outings.

For a first-time owner, the breed can be a good choice if they want to train, are prepared to use a lead or long line and accept the continuing coat care. It is a poorer fit for someone seeking a dog that will always be off lead, rarely make itself heard and cope with full working days alone. Include regular hand-stripping in both the calendar and the budget before deciding.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions:

- Is there time for daily activity, training and undisturbed rest?
- Is there a safe plan for time alone and outdoor breaks during the working day?
- Can the dog be kept on a lead or long line where its hunting interest makes this necessary?
- Is there both time and budget for recurring professional hand-stripping?

If the answer is yes and you appreciate a small dog with plenty of initiative, a Westie can be an entertaining and close companion for many years.

West Highland White Terrier

West Highland White Terrier Club of England

VCA Animal Hospitals

Die Terrierhunde (Germany)

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

The West Highland White Terrier is a small, sturdy Scottish terrier with a harsh white coat that sheds lightly. Confident, vocal and independent yet affectionate, it suits city or country homes. Needs daily walks, mental stimulation, regular grooming and consistent, reward‑based training.

Pernille Jacobsen

Lone Birkeholm Jønson

## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

Lena Mia Lyngs Schmidt

Ultimate Legacy`s

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a British cattle-herding and companion breed. It is low to the ground but much more solidly built, powerful and work-focused than its short legs might suggest. It is best suited to someone who wants to train, walk and solve problems with their dog every day.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives 30 cm at the withers as the ideal height. It does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be in proportion to the dog’s size and overall balance.
- **Build:** Long and strong, with short legs, good ground clearance and a long, fox-like tail.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is alert, active, intelligent and steady, neither shy nor aggressive.
- **Activity:** Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation are essential. A fixed number of exercise minutes will not suit every individual.
- **Coat:** A short to medium-length, weather-resistant double coat with an undercoat. Expect shedding and regular brushing.
- **Important when buying a puppy:** Ask to see the parents’ actual hip dysplasia results, and ask about eye examinations, rcd3-PRA and any merle colouring.

The Cardigan and the Welsh Corgi Pembroke are two separate breeds. Do not choose a dog solely because it is called a ‘corgi’ or resembles a short-legged dog in a photograph. Compare the breeds’ everyday needs, meet adult dogs and form your own impression of the breeder’s dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan should be sturdy, mobile and capable of endurance: low-set, but not so low that the body lacks ground clearance. The body is fairly long and strong, with substantial bone and large, erect ears that are slightly rounded at the tips. The moderately long tail reaches to, or nearly to, the ground. It may lift when the dog is moving but should not curl over the back. This long, fox-like tail is a clear feature of the Cardigan standard.

Accepted colours are blue merle, brindle, red, sable, tricolour with brindle points and tricolour with red points. Typical white markings are permitted, but white should not predominate on the body or head and should not surround the eyes. Under the standard, blue or blue-flecked eyes are permitted only in blue merles.

The coat consists of a coarse, preferably straight outer coat and a protective undercoat. Brush through the entire coat regularly and more often when a large amount of undercoat is coming loose. Check that loose undercoat is not becoming packed behind the ears, on the backs of the thighs or around the tail. The timing and amount of shedding vary between dogs; plan for more loose hair at certain times rather than relying on a fixed calendar. Gently accustom the puppy to brushing, nail trimming and other handling from the outset.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Welsh Corgi Cardigan is alert, active, intelligent and steady. That is a useful starting point, but it does not guarantee how every dog will develop. Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results show variation within the breed, while upbringing, experience and individuality affect qualities such as sociability, fearfulness, interest in play and the ability to settle.

Its background as a farm and cattle dog may show in close attention to movement, a desire to monitor its surroundings and a tendency to bark. Some young dogs may also try to control running people or animals and nip towards their legs. These are possible behaviours to anticipate and address through training, not something every Cardigan will do. Interrupt calmly, reward an alternative behaviour and offer structured activities in which the dog can use its nose, body and mind.

Ask the breeder how the parents behave with visitors, in unfamiliar environments and after activity. Meet them where possible. A dog that becomes excited quickly but struggles to settle can be demanding even if it learns readily. In many homes, the ability to switch between activity and rest is at least as important as enthusiasm for training.

## Training & Exercise

A Cardigan needs physical activity and opportunities to think every day, but there is no credible rule in minutes that suits them all. Age, health, fitness and personality determine the right amount. A sound routine combines walks in varied environments with scent work, short training sessions, play and time to recover.

The breed often enjoys tasks that involve working with its owner and making small choices. Tracking, search games, everyday obedience, rally obedience and controlled body-awareness exercises are examples; a dog does not have to herd to lead a fulfilling life. Increase difficulty and physical demands gradually, particularly in a growing dog, and seek advice from a vet or veterinary physiotherapist if the dog is in pain, lame or moving abnormally. Its conformation is not, in itself, a reason to ban all stairs or jumping, but the environment and activity must suit the individual dog.

Use positive, reward-based training in clear stages. Prioritise engagement, recall, walking with you and calm behaviour around bicycles, running children and other movement that may attract the dog’s attention. If the dog barks at the door or window, help it away from the situation before barking becomes a habit, then reward the behaviour you want. Harsh corrections or attempts to ‘dominate’ the dog are unnecessary and may undermine its sense of security.

## Health

The current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Cardigan as generally healthy. In the eye examination results reviewed for the strategy, no single eye disease stood out. This does not mean that every dog is healthy or that health screening is unimportant. For a puppy buyer, documented results are more valuable than general assurances that a line is ‘problem-free’.

### Hips and musculoskeletal health

Since 2025, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. **A known status means that the result is officially recorded; it does not automatically mean that the hips are free from dysplasia.** Ask for the actual grades and invite the breeder to explain the choice of pairing.

The breed club is also monitoring short ulna, in which the ulna stops growing too early and the foreleg may become increasingly bowed. If a growing dog develops a clear change in leg alignment, an outward-turning paw or lameness, it should be assessed promptly by a vet with orthopaedic experience. Treatment may need to start while the dog is still growing, so do not simply wait to see what happens.

### Eyes, rcd3-PRA and merle

Rcd3-PRA is an early-onset, autosomal recessive form of PRA found in the breed. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected. A carrier will not itself develop this particular form of PRA, but can pass the variant on. The test answers only the question of this genetic variant. An eye examination can instead detect clinical eye changes but cannot identify unaffected carriers, so the two forms of screening do not replace each other.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but the merle variant must not be inherited from both parents because the offspring would then be at risk of serious hearing and eye defects. When buying a merle puppy, the breeder should be able to explain the parents’ colours and how the mating complies with Swedish Kennel Club rules.

Keep the dog in an appropriate body condition as well. A defined waist should be visible behind the ribs, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Monitor changes over time instead of pursuing a single standard weight.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan developed in Wales as a farm and cattle dog. It worked closely with the people on the farm and helped to move and manage cattle. This historical function explains the combination of low height, mobility, endurance and close attention to its surroundings.

The breed’s exact age and the dogs from which it descends have not been conclusively established. Older accounts link it to very early Welsh dogs, Celts or Vikings, but these theories should not be treated as a certain lineage. The Swedish Kennel Club states that Cardigans and Pembrokes were interbred until 1934, when they were separated and recognised as two distinct breeds. The first Welsh Corgi Cardigan registered in Sweden arrived in 1963.

The FCI now classifies the breed as a cattle-herding and companion dog. Many live solely as family companions, but their active, work-focused heritage remains relevant when deciding whether everyday life with the breed will be a good fit.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan can live in a flat, but its low height does not automatically make it easy to keep in a small home. It needs daily activity, opportunities to settle and training around sounds in communal hallways and outside windows. A house and garden are no substitute for walks, shared activities and new environments.

Being left alone is not a fixed breed trait. Start with very short periods once the dog feels secure and increase the time gradually; take a step back if it shows signs of distress. Plan around the individual and do not expect a young puppy to cope with being left alone.

The breed can live happily in a family with children, but no breed is automatically safe with children. An adult should always be present when a dog and young children interact, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Teach both children and dog calm boundaries, particularly when play and running may prompt the dog to follow or control movement.

The same individual approach applies to other dogs and cats. Previous experience and a controlled introduction matter more than the breed name. When introducing a cat, provide it with a dog-free retreat, keep meetings calm and prevent chasing from the very beginning.

Before buying, it is sensible to check:

- the parents’ official hip grades, not merely that they have been X-rayed;
- the date and result of eye examinations, as well as rcd3-PRA status;
- how any merle pairing was planned;
- how close relatives respond to sounds, people and dogs, and how well they settle after activity;
- whether you want a daily life that includes shedding, training and daily activity throughout the dog’s lifetime.

This is not the right breed for someone choosing solely for its compact size. A Cardigan is an active, intelligent cattle dog on short legs and needs an owner with both the time and interest to provide a well-planned daily routine.

Welsh Corgi Cardigan

Welsh Corgi League (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a sturdy, long-backed herding dog with a foxlike head and long tail. Energetic and agile despite short legs, it is loyal, watchful and often reserved with strangers. It has a weather-resistant double coat in many colours and needs regular exercise and grooming.

DelightfulCorgi Ribe

Børing

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Bayogi

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Vigdis Berg

Leri

Faldborgs

## Quick Facts

The Leonberger is a very large German companion and family dog. The breed ideal combines calm confidence with a profuse double coat and a clear need to take part in everyday family life. Size affects almost every decision: training must start early, coat care takes regular time, and the home, car and budget all need to work for a giant dog.

- The FCI recognises the Leonberger as breed number 145 in Group 2, with Germany as its country of origin.
- Males should stand 72–80 cm at the withers and females 65–75 cm. The breed standard specifies no weight.
- The breed ideal is a confident, biddable and friendly family dog, but each dog’s temperament and experience of children must be assessed individually.
- The coat is long and profuse, with an undercoat. Leonbergers shed heavily, particularly during distinct seasonal moults.
- A Leonberger needs physical and mental activity every day, adjusted to age, health and recovery.
- In Sweden, breeding dogs must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed club’s RAS breeding strategy contains further recommendations worth checking when choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Leonberger is a powerful, muscular dog that should still look balanced, agile and elegant. Males stand 72–80 cm and females 65–75 cm. The FCI standard gives no weight range, so a particular figure on the scales is not an official measure of breed type. Proportions, body condition, movement and the build of adult relatives are more useful guides.

A black mask is required by the breed standard. The base colour may be lion yellow, red, reddish brown or sandy, including shades between them. The long, profuse coat ranges from medium-soft to coarse and has a substantial undercoat. It may be straight or slightly wavy. Males in particular may develop a marked mane over the neck and chest, while the legs and hindquarters carry longer feathering.

Give the coat a thorough groom at least once a week and more often when the undercoat is coming away. Brush it section by section all the way to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, under the chin, between the front legs, through the breeches and along the tail. Mats can quickly grow in such a dense coat. After bathing or wet walks, both the skin and thick undercoat need to dry properly.

Leonbergers are not shaped with clippers or trimmed like a clipped breed. Hair on and beneath the feet can be tidied, and an occasional long hair around the ears may be neatened if necessary. Bathing should reflect the individual coat, activity and level of dirt; no fixed timetable suits every dog. Anyone hoping for an almost hair-free home should choose another breed.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for an agreeable, biddable and fearless companion with confidence, moderate liveliness and a good capacity to learn and remember. That is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every Leonberger. The Swedish breed club’s breeding strategy therefore stresses the importance of reading the full behavioural assessment, with particular attention to fear and aggression.

Leonbergers are closely associated with family life and friendliness towards children. Marked friendliness to children is part of the breed standard, but adults must still manage every interaction. A large adolescent can knock a child over without meaning any harm, and the dog should always have a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children need to learn to leave the dog alone when it is eating, sleeping or moving away.

Compatibility with other dogs, cats and small pets depends on the individual, its past experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees a low prey drive or automatic tolerance. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free areas and escape routes, keep the dog under control and make meetings short and calm. Prevent chasing, and do not leave the animals together unsupervised until their behaviour is stable and predictable.

Some guarding instinct may be present, but the Leonberger is not intended to be a sharp guard dog. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, sudden noises, unfamiliar places and handling. This tells you more about future daily life than labels such as “gentle giant”.

## Training & Exercise

A Leonberger needs practical training from the first day, especially loose-lead walking, recall, cooperative handling and greeting people with all four feet on the ground. What looks charming in a small puppy can become a safety problem in an adult giant. Reward-based training gives the dog clear choices and should be the first option; harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary.

Exercise should build a capable body rather than follow a rigid time formula. There is no scientific evidence behind the familiar “five minutes per month of age” rule. Short walks, free play at the puppy’s own pace, gentle exposure to new environments and simple training all work well, interspersed with plenty of sleep. Stop when the puppy tires, loses coordination or begins to lag behind. Increase one thing at a time, and notice how the dog moves and recovers later that day and the following morning.

Avoid long distances at a pace set by the handler, as well as repeated jumping, hard stops and running beside a bicycle while the dog is growing. This does not mean keeping a puppy still. Varied movement at its own pace and gradually longer walks develop body awareness and confidence.

A healthy adult Leonberger benefits from daily walks and tasks that engage the mind. Scent work, tracking, everyday obedience and unhurried outings are often practical choices. Judge the right level by the dog’s fitness, the surface, the weather and recovery, not by a generic number of minutes. A dog that becomes stiff, reluctant or unusually tired needs a lighter workload and, if signs persist, a veterinary assessment.

## Health

The Leonberger’s size makes health and longevity important questions before a puppy is bought. In a British study published in 2024, median life expectancy was 10.0 years among 676 Leonbergers. That is a population estimate, not a forecast for an individual dog or a Swedish litter. Also ask about ages and causes of death among the parents, grandparents and previous offspring.

In Sweden, the Leonberger has a health programme under which both breeding dogs must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating for their puppies to be eligible for SKK registration. For this breed, radiographs are taken no earlier than 18 months. This must not be confused with the current RAS from the Svenska Leonbergerklubben, which is advisory and goes further. It recommends, among other things, a litter HD index of at least 100, not breeding from dogs graded HD D–E or ED 2–3, eye examination before first breeding and known behavioural status.

Ask the breeder to show the official result records and explain both parents’ results and the proposed pairing. Useful records include:

- official HD status, preferably an ED result as well, and current HD/ED indices;
- eye examination results and the complete record from BPH or another behavioural assessment;
- DNA results for LPN1, LPN2, LPPN3 and LEMP, interpreted correctly for each variant;
- known heart disease, tumours, neurological signs and early deaths among close relatives.

The LPN variants and LEMP are neurological diseases that can affect movement, muscle, coordination and sometimes breathing. The tests are not interchangeable and their inheritance differs: LPN2, for example, is dominant, while LPPN3 and LEMP are managed as recessive variants. Do not settle for “DNA tested”; ask to see the exact test and result and how the pairing follows current breed-club guidance.

The Leonberger is large and deep-chested, a body shape associated with an increased risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus. Unproductive retching, a rapidly swelling abdomen, restlessness, panting and difficulty lying down are emergency warning signs. Contact a vet immediately and set off for the clinic; do not wait to see whether the signs pass.

## History & Origins

The Leonberger was developed in southern Germany during the nineteenth century and takes its name from the town of Leonberg near Stuttgart. According to the FCI breed standard, town councillor Heinrich Essig crossed a black-and-white Newfoundland bitch with a dog from the hospice at the Great St Bernard Pass and later added a Pyrenean Mountain Dog. He aimed to create a large dog with a lion-like appearance, reflecting the lion on the town’s coat of arms.

The first dogs genuinely called Leonbergers were born in 1846. By the end of the nineteenth century, the breed was kept as a farm dog in Baden-Württemberg, where its guarding and draught abilities were valued. Breeding numbers fell sharply during both World Wars and the post-war years, but the population was rebuilt. The FCI gave the breed definitive recognition in 1955, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1979.

Today the Leonberger is principally a companion and family dog. Its history helps explain the size, weather-resistant coat and some watchfulness, but it does not predict how a particular dog will perform in work, water or family life.

## Living with the Breed

A Leonberger is best suited to someone who genuinely wants to share daily life with a very large dog and can make space, coat care, transport, training and healthcare costs work in practice. A garden is convenient but never replaces walks and company. Flat living can work if the dog has room to lie down and turn comfortably, but check the lift or stairs, noise from communal areas and neighbours, access to a cool resting place, and how an ill or injured dog would be transported.

A large car or another safe transport arrangement is often necessary. Beds, gates, harnesses and other equipment must cope with the dog’s size, while food, insurance and veterinary care will usually cost more than for a small dog. Plan who could safely handle the dog if you become ill or need to travel.

Time alone should be taught gradually and adjusted to the individual dog’s response. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, with puppies and older dogs going out more often. This describes how frequently a dog should be allowed outside, not how long every Leonberger is comfortable alone. Record brief practice sessions and take a step back if the dog paces, pants, barks persistently or cannot settle.

This is a poor choice for anyone wanting minimal shedding, low running costs or the option to postpone training until a problem appears. It can be a good fit for someone who values close cooperation, has time for early everyday training and is willing to adapt activity throughout the dog’s life. Meet several adult Leonbergers and ask about difficulties as well as strengths before deciding.

Leonberger

Leonberger Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Leonberger Club

German Leonberger Club

Societé Centrale Canine (France)

Large, strongly built “gentle giant” with lion‑coloured, water‑resistant double coat and black mask. Typically calm, devoted, and very good with children and other pets when well socialised. Needs regular exercise, kind training, thorough grooming, and careful health management.

Kiramoon

Jabina

Schön's

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Muscha's

Cockergold

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Swedish Kennel Club

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Gitte Pedersen-Årdal er oppdretter av dansk-svensk gårdshund i Tonstad under kennelnavnet Espetveit's. Oppdrettet er knyttet til gården Espetveit i Sirdal, der hundene lever i flokk som en naturlig del av gårdslivet. Rasen har også en praktisk rolle på gården i arbeidet mot rotter og mus. Oppdrettshistorikken med dansk-svensk gårdshund går minst tilbake til 2021. Kennelnavnet Espetveit's er også brukt i oppdrett av terrier brasileiro, og Pedersen-Årdal er aktiv på hundeutstillinger.

Gitte Pedersen-Årdal

## Quick Facts

The Border Collie is a British sheepdog for someone who wants to work with, train and give their dog meaningful tasks throughout its life. The breed is highly trainable and has great stamina, but those same qualities often make it more demanding than a dog bred primarily for companionship.

- **Dog type:** purebred sheepdog, recognised by the FCI in Group 1
- **Size:** medium; the ideal height for males is about 53 cm, with females usually slightly shorter
- **Weight:** approximately 12–20 kg, with variation according to sex and build
- **Life expectancy:** approximately 10–15 years
- **Coat:** smooth or moderately long double coat in many colours
- **Typical traits:** alert, biddable, responsive, intelligent and strongly motivated to work
- **Best suited to:** a committed owner who enjoys regular training and can teach both activity and rest

The key question before buying is not whether the family walks for a set number of hours, but whether daily life allows time for regular training and cooperation. A Border Collie needs to use its brain, express its herding instincts in controlled ways and also learn to settle at home.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Collie is an athletic, well-balanced dog, built for agility and sustained work rather than for a uniform appearance. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, smooth and efficient. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 53 cm for males and slightly less for females, although both size and build vary noticeably within the breed.

The standard describes two coat varieties: smooth and moderately long. Both have a dense, medium-textured outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat that provides weather resistance. The moderately long coat forms more of a mane, breeching and brush, while the smooth coat lies closer to the body. Many colours and markings occur; black and white and tricolour are common, but the standard permits considerable variety provided white does not predominate.

The coat is basically straightforward to maintain. Brush as often as needed to remove loose undercoat and prevent matting, particularly behind the ears and in areas of feathering. More frequent brushing is needed during periods of heavier shedding. Bathe when necessary. A dog that works or trains outdoors should also be checked afterwards: examine the paws, nails, skin and coat for injuries, grass awns, ticks and debris.

## Temperament & Personality

The Border Collie is attentive, cooperative and extremely quick to notice patterns. It therefore learns not only what its owner intends to teach, but also which sounds predict a walk, how people normally move and which behaviours produce a response. Highly trainable does not automatically mean easy to live with; unclear routines and accidental rewards can establish behaviour just as quickly as considered training.

Herding depends on the dog noticing and influencing movement. In everyday life without sheep, the same sensitivity can be directed towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals. Staring, stalking, cutting off a path and chasing are signals to address early. They should be interrupted calmly and replaced with a trained alternative, not encouraged as an amusing quirk.

A Border Collie can live successfully in a family, but the breed is not universally “good with children” regardless of the individual and environment. Running, shouting and fast play can trigger herding behaviour or stress. Children and dogs therefore need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Living with a cat or other dogs can also work, especially with thoughtful introductions, but cannot be guaranteed on the basis of breed alone. The cat should be able to withdraw and the dog should be taught to leave it alone.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Collie needs both physical activity and tasks requiring concentration every day, but it is not possible to specify a number of hours that suits every individual. Age, health, temperament, previous training and work determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates movement, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery.

Walks in varied surroundings, free movement where it is safe, scent work, obedience, tracking, herding and other dog sports engage the dog in different ways. Choose activities in which the dog must listen and make decisions, not merely run quickly. Endless ball throwing or other highly arousing repetition is a poor measure of whether the dog’s needs have been met; it can increase anticipation without teaching the dog to settle.

Keep training sessions short, clear and reward based. Give everyday skills such as recall, lead walking, stopping at a distance and disengaging from movement as much attention as tricks or competitive exercises. Reward calm behaviour too: lying in a designated place, waiting while something happens and sleeping after activity. A Border Collie that is always offered more high-speed activity can become extremely fit without learning how to rest.

Puppies and young dogs need controlled experiences, not a miniature version of an adult training schedule. Build confidence in different environments, allow the body to mature and increase physical load and difficulty gradually. If the dog becomes more scattered, noise-sensitive or fixated despite receiving more activity, the answer may be a better balance and professional help rather than still harder exercise.

## Health

The Border Collie is regarded as comparatively healthy, but the breed has documented conditions that a puppy buyer should understand. Hip dysplasia (HD), Collie eye anomaly (CEA), other retinal changes, epilepsy and osteochondrosis affecting mainly the shoulder are among the areas highlighted by the Swedish Kennel Club and the Swedish Sheepdog Society.

When assessing a Swedish-registered litter, start by checking the parents’ official hip status and eye examination. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, the eye result must be recorded before mating and would normally be no more than one year old. Check the registered results and also ask about epilepsy, recurring seizures, shoulder problems and early deaths among siblings, parents and other close relatives. Normal results for two parents do not describe the health of an entire family line.

DNA tests are available for several inherited conditions in the breed, including CEA, IGS, TNS and sensory neuropathy. Which tests are relevant depends on ancestry and current recommendations. Ask the breeder to explain what has been tested and why. For recessive diseases, a healthy carrier is not the same as an affected dog; what matters is planning the mating so puppies cannot inherit the disease variant from both parents. A DNA test does not replace a clinical eye examination, joint results or knowledge of the wider family.

A dog with Border Collie collapse (BCC) may be completely symptom-free at rest but become disorientated, unsteady or fall during or shortly after intense activity. The dog may appear to recover after 5–30 minutes, but any collapse must be taken seriously and assessed by a vet. BCC is not the same as ordinary fatigue, heatstroke or the dynamin-1-related EIC variant more commonly seen in Labrador Retrievers. Stop the activity immediately if the dog’s focus or movement changes abnormally.

## History & Origins

The Border Collie developed in the border country between England and Scotland as a working dog for sheep farming. Selection was based for a long time on practical herding ability: the dog needed to read livestock, work at a distance and respond to its handler’s signals in demanding conditions. This functional background explains the breed’s eye, stalking movement, endurance and strong drive to control movement.

The FCI recognises the Border Collie as a British sheepdog subject to a working trial. In Sweden, function also has an unusually explicit place in registration. The breed is entered in the Swedish Kennel Club’s dedicated sheepdog register, REG V, and a Swedish-born Border Collie can only be registered when both parents have passed a herding trial held by Svenska Vallhundsklubben (SVaK) or have an approved equivalent qualification from abroad. Appearance can consequently vary more than in many other breeds, while working ability remains central to the Swedish breeding model.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Border Collie requires planning, but not constant entertainment. The goal is a dog that can work with focus when needed and rest when nothing is happening. That balance is best suited to a home where someone genuinely enjoys dog training and where responsibility does not depend on children exercising the dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically ruled out, and a large garden does not guarantee a good life. Access to suitable training environments, safe exercise and a routine that can genuinely be maintained matter more. In a busy area, the owner must be able to manage traffic, bicycles, runners, sounds and encounters without the dog becoming stuck in herding or constant vigilance.

Time alone should be trained gradually, beginning with very short periods and adjusted to the dog’s age and reactions. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a promise that a dog will be comfortable alone for that long. Consider filming early sessions and step back if the dog paces, pants, barks, damages things or cannot settle. A routine involving repeated long working days without help is a poor starting point for this breed.

Before buying a Swedish puppy, check at least three things for both parents: a registered hip status, a valid eye result and a pass in an approved herding trial. Then ask about epilepsy and joint health in close relatives, relevant DNA tests, how the parents behave both at rest and at work, and what support the breeder provides after the purchase. The best match is not about finding the “cleverest” puppy, but choosing one whose temperament and working drive suit what you can offer throughout the dog’s life.

Border Collie

The Border Collie is a medium, athletic herding dog known for intense focus, high intelligence and very high energy. Developed to work sheep all day, it excels in herding, sports and training. It needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and structured guidance in an active home.

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