## Quick Facts

The French Bulldog is a small, sturdy and sociable companion dog from France. It should be lively and active, but its shortened skull and muzzle carry a risk of breathing problems and impaired temperature regulation. Anyone considering the breed should therefore assess function and documented health as carefully as temperament and appearance.

- **Breed group and purpose:** FCI Group 9, companion dog
- **Height at the withers:** males 27–35 cm, females 24–32 cm
- **Weight:** males 9–14 kg, females 8–13 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and without an undercoat
- **Colours in the breed standard:** fawn, brindle and pied, with the markings described in the standard
- **Ideal temperament:** sociable, lively, playful and affectionate
- **Important Swedish health assessment:** RFG-Scheme has been mandatory before breeding within SKK since 1 January 2025

The breed is not an obvious choice for anyone seeking a dog with low care needs. A French Bulldog should be able to move freely and breathe freely even while moving. Audible or laboured breathing is not a charming or normal breed trait.

## Appearance & Coat

The French Bulldog should be compact and muscular without becoming heavy, immobile or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the head is broad and the upright “bat ears” are a defining feature. The whole dog should function in motion: open nostrils, adequate muzzle length, free movement and a body that does not prevent activity matter more than an extreme appearance.

The breed standard specifies different measurements for each sex. Males should stand 27–35 cm and weigh 9–14 kg, while females should stand 24–32 cm and weigh 8–13 kg. These figures are not a target weight for every individual. A suitable body condition depends on the dog’s build, muscle mass and body fat; excess weight puts additional strain on breathing, joints and the back.

The coat is short, smooth, soft and glossy, with no undercoat. Shedding can normally be managed with simple brushing as needed. At the same time, check the nails, paws, ears, teeth and skin. Facial folds should be kept clean and dry, but care should follow the skin’s actual condition. Redness, odour, discharge, itching or soreness call for advice, not simply more frequent cleaning.

The breed standard’s colours are fawn, brindle and pied. Blue and merle are not accepted colours. A puppy marketed as a “rare colour” should be assessed using the same important evidence as any other puppy: registration, respiratory function, the parent dogs and the breeder’s breeding programme.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the French Bulldog should be sociable, lively, playful and affectionate. Many individuals enjoy contact and like to take part in family life. The breed can learn quickly, but independence and stubbornness mean that clear routines and worthwhile rewards often work better than repetition or harsh corrections.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not every dog. Inheritance, early experience, health, pain, environment and training all affect an individual’s behaviour. A dog that struggles to breathe or is uncomfortable because of its skin, back or joints may also have less patience and recover less well. Temperament should therefore be considered alongside physical function.

BPH shows how a particular dog responded during a standardised behavioural assessment. It is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy’s future personality. The older Swedish BPH analysis covered only a small proportion of French Bulldogs born in Sweden. For a puppy buyer, it is therefore more useful to meet the dam and ask how the parents and close relatives cope with unfamiliar people, dog encounters, unexpected noises, handling, activity and rest.

The breed can suit a well-informed first-time owner who is prepared for reward-based training, daily activity and possible veterinary needs. It is less suitable when the choice is based mainly on small size, a particular look or the assumption that a short-muzzled dog automatically needs very little exercise.

## Training & Exercise

A French Bulldog needs daily walks, scent work, play and everyday training, but no single number of exercise minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, weather and, above all, the dog’s breathing and recovery determine what is appropriate. Cooling through panting is less efficient in short-muzzled dogs, so the same activity may be easy on a cool day and unsuitable in hot weather.

Plan several manageable activities rather than one long session that has to be completed. Let the dog sniff, walk calmly over varied ground and use its brain through searches and simple problem-solving. Build fitness gradually and watch the dog throughout the activity. Slow down or stop if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, the nostrils narrow, the dog uses its abdomen forcefully to breathe, falls behind or does not recover normally. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness requires immediate veterinary attention.

In hot weather, walks need to be moved to cooler times, the pace reduced and the dog given shade, water and a cool place to rest. Never leave the dog in a hot car or another enclosed space. A dog that repeatedly struggles during moderate activity or warm weather needs a veterinary assessment; merely avoiding all exercise is not a solution.

Prioritise attention, calm lead walking, recall, ending play, settling and accepting checks of the mouth, ears, facial folds, paws and nails. Teach the dog to be alone in very small steps once it already feels secure at home. Reward-based methods make each task clear and make necessary handling easier.

## Health

The most important health problem to understand in the French Bulldog is BOAS, brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome. It occurs when there is insufficient space for the soft tissues within the shortened nose and throat. The consequences can include noisy or laboured breathing, poor stamina, disturbed sleep and difficulty regulating body temperature.

RFG-Scheme is a veterinary assessment that evaluates respiratory function before and after three minutes of brisk exercise and grades the result from 0 to 3. Since 1 January 2025, French Bulldogs have been covered by a Level 2 health programme within SKK: dogs used for breeding must have a result before mating. An official result can be registered from 24 months of age and must be no more than two years old at the time of mating. Grade 0 is recommended; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be used for breeding under SKK rules. A dog that has undergone airway surgery cannot be assessed within the scheme.

An RFG result describes the dog’s condition at the time of the assessment and does not remove the need for your own observations. It is not a lifetime guarantee and does not cover every other health risk. Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents’ registered names, assessment dates and actual RFG grades. Ideally, see the parents both at rest and after normal movement: breathing should be free, recovery reasonable and the nostrils open. Do not accept “tested” or “vet checked” as a substitute for the registered result.

Other documented areas of risk include allergies and skin disease, problems affecting the back, skeleton and joints including patellar luxation, and injuries to the prominent eyes. This does not mean that every dog will be affected. Ask about recurring skin problems, lameness, back pain and eye injuries in the parents and close relatives. The Swedish breed club also recommends that puppy buyers ask about patellas, the heart and breathing in the adult dogs; these questions should be distinguished from the formal RFG requirement.

Contact a vet about recurring breathing noises, clear exercise or heat intolerance, sleep disturbed by breathing, smelly or painful skin, recurring lameness, back pain, or a red, watery or painful eye. Early assessment is better than waiting for a problem to become “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The French Bulldog was established as a breed in Paris in the late nineteenth century. The first breed club was founded in Paris in 1880, the first dog was registered in 1885 and the first breed standard was adopted in 1898. The French kennel club recognised the breed in the same year.

The breed developed as a companion dog and acquired the compact body, broad head and upright bat ears that still characterise the standard. The French Bulldog was first shown in Sweden in 1913. Its historical type explains the modern appearance, but breeding today should not intensify these features to the point that breathing, eyes, back, tail or movement are adversely affected.

## Living with the Breed

A French Bulldog can live in a flat or a house because the size of the home alone does not determine whether daily life will work. What matters is that the dog receives daily activity, can rest undisturbed and has a secure, cool environment. In a flat, sounds from stairwells and outside windows should be addressed through early training, and access to a lift or the number of stairs may become important if the dog is in pain or has difficulty breathing.

The same safety rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult is responsible for their interaction. Children should not disturb the dog while it eats or rests, climb on it or persist when it tries to move away. Provide a protected resting place and teach both children and dog to interact calmly. Small size and a playful temperament do not automatically make an individual safe with children.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and their previous experiences. Make introductions gradually, with a way to separate the animals and without forcing close contact. Socialisation may improve the prospects but cannot guarantee that every combination will work. Pay particular attention to stress, resource guarding and whether another dog’s play becomes too physical for an individual with limited breathing capacity.

Time alone needs to be taught gradually, beginning with very short periods. Increase the duration only when the dog can remain calm, and consider using a camera to detect distress or barking that is not apparent when you return. The breed should not be chosen with a plan to leave the dog alone for most of the day on a regular basis.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can we put unrestricted breathing and sound physical function ahead of an extreme appearance or an unusual colour?
- Can we verify the parents’ identities, RFG grades and assessment dates rather than relying on verbal assurances?
- Can we adapt activity to heat and the dog’s condition without making it inactive?
- Do we have the time and financial capacity to manage the veterinary needs that may accompany the breed’s body shape?

If the answers are yes and the breeder can show verifiable results, the French Bulldog can be a lively and close companion. The most important choice is not the most extreme head or rarest colour, but a dog that can breathe, move, recover and enjoy an active everyday life.

French Bulldog

The French Bulldog Club of England

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The French Bulldog is a small, muscular companion dog with a short coat and bat-like ears. Affectionate, people oriented, and playful yet calm indoors, it suits apartment life. It needs moderate, carefully managed exercise, regular skin, ear, and nail care, and attention to breathing and weight.

Liz-Helena Westgård

## Quick Facts

The Drever is a low-set Swedish driving hound used mainly for hare, fox, roe deer and other deer. It combines a powerful hunting instinct and independent work in the forest with a calm basic temperament. The breed is best suited to a hunter, or to a home that can provide genuine scent work and manage its voice and interest in following tracks in everyday life.

- **Purpose:** an all-round driving hound that finds game, follows the track and gives tongue. Track accuracy, an appropriate pace and the ability to end a long chase are important working qualities.
- **Size:** males should stand 32–38 centimetres at the withers, with 35 centimetres ideal. Females should stand 30–36 centimetres, with 33 centimetres ideal.
- **Temperament:** the breed standard describes the Drever as attentive and calm. Aggression, nervousness and shyness are not part of the desired breed temperament.
- **Activity:** strong working drive and great stamina. Lead walks are rarely enough as the dog's only activity.
- **Coat:** a coarse, straight, close-lying coat that is relatively easy to care for.
- **Key health concern:** hunting-associated pulmonary oedema, sometimes called hunting oedema, is the breed's clearest documented specific health problem.

A Drever can be a lovely member of the family, but it is not an uncomplicated companion dog. Anyone wanting a dog that is often off lead, seldom works with its nose and remains quiet in a block of flats should consider another breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Drever should be long-bodied and low-set, yet strong, muscular and agile. It is built to work in rough country, not to look excessively long or heavy. Ground clearance should be about 40 per cent of height at the withers, and movement should be even, parallel and ground-covering.

The breed standard specifies height but no ideal weight. A number on the scales therefore matters less than the whole dog: the ribs should be easy to feel, a waist should be visible and the dog should carry enough muscle for its work. When choosing a puppy, free movement, well-constructed forelegs and adequate ground clearance are more useful than a promised adult weight.

The coat is coarse, straight and close-lying. It is shorter on the head, ears and lower legs, and slightly longer on the neck, back and rear of the thighs. The underside of the tail is bushy without feathering. All colours with white markings are permitted except predominantly white, merle and liver. The white markings should be visible from several angles.

Coat care is simple, but a working dog needs more than brushing. Remove loose hair as required and bathe the dog when it is dirty, rather than to a fixed timetable. After hunting or moving through dense cover, check the paws, nails, skin, eyes and ears for wounds, debris and ticks. Keep the nails short enough not to interfere with the way the paw meets the ground.

## Temperament & Personality

The Drever should be calm and attentive, but it has also been bred to make decisions at a distance from its handler. What looks like stubbornness at home is often the independence needed in the forest. Once the dog finds an interesting game scent, everything else can quickly become less important than the track.

With the right routine, a Drever can switch between intense outdoor work and settling at home. This does not guarantee that every individual will be quiet, easy to direct or sociable with everyone. Genetics, experience, training and the balance between activity and rest all matter.

The same basic rule applies around children as with any dog: an adult should be present and the dog must have a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. A calm breed temperament is no substitute for supervision, and children should not be responsible for a dog that may lunge after a scent on a walk.

Whether a Drever can live with other dogs, cats and small animals depends on the individual. It may learn to live with a cat, particularly after early, calm introductions, but its hunting instinct means that success should never be promised. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat from the first meeting, give the cat its own safe areas and do not leave them together unattended until you know how they behave with one another. Small pets need a secure space the dog cannot reach.

The voice is a working tool: a hunter follows the chase by listening to the dog. This does not mean that every Drever barks a great deal indoors, but noise must be considered before buying, especially in a flat. Repeated barking or howling when left alone should be treated as a sign that the arrangement needs to change, not as an unavoidable breed trait.

## Training & Exercise

Drevers respond best to clear routines, high-value rewards and difficulty that increases a little at a time. Harsh corrections do not create a safer hunting dog. Reward-based training that takes account of the breed's motivation provides a better foundation for trust and co-operation.

Start recall training in a place with no distractions. Reward promptly, often release the dog to sniff again, and move on to a long line before adding greater difficulty. Recall then does not always mean that the fun is over. A well-trained recall reduces risk, but it does not make hunting instinct harmless. In areas rich in game, a long line, secure enclosure or carefully planned hunting routine is often safer than testing whether obedience will hold.

No exact time rule suits every Drever. A sound daily routine includes physical activity, scent work, short training sessions and recovery. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, hunting season and individual needs. Build stamina gradually before the season instead of asking an unfit dog to go straight from quiet weeks to a long day in the field.

Activities that make good use of the breed's abilities include:

- game tracking or following a human-laid track with a clear start and finish;
- search exercises in which the dog works methodically with its nose;
- walks over varied ground with time to investigate scents;
- hunting trials and hunting training under knowledgeable guidance for a dog intended to work in the field.

Hunting is more than exercise. A Drever should search, put up and accurately drive hare, fox, roe deer or other deer, giving audible tongue and co-operating well enough for the hunt to remain manageable. For a non-hunting owner, the task is therefore greater than adding one extra-long walk: the dog needs regular, structured work that uses its nose, stamina and problem-solving ability.

## Health

The Drever is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but hunting-associated pulmonary oedema is a specific problem that every prospective and current owner should understand. It causes acute breathing difficulty during or after hunting. It is a form of non-cardiogenic pulmonary oedema, and the precise underlying mechanism remains unknown.

Warning signs include coughing, abnormally fast or laboured breathing and tiredness out of proportion to the work. An affected dog may struggle to lie down, sit with its head and neck extended or stop giving tongue during a chase. Stop the exertion and contact a vet if a dog develops these signs. Do not wait for another hunting day to see whether it happens again.

Heredity contributes to risk, and the Swedish Drever Club's breeding strategy contains specific guidance intended to reduce pulmonary oedema. Ask the breeder to show how cases on both the dam's and sire's sides have been assessed and how the planned mating appears in DreverData. Also ask how close relatives perform during hunting; normal breathing and recovery after work are important information.

Do not judge a Drever breeder by a generic list of hip, elbow and eye tests borrowed from other breeds. Use current advice for the Drever. Check the parents' identity, hunting and show results, temperament, health history and relatedness in the Swedish Kennel Club and breed-club records. Ask for frank answers about problems that do not have a simple test as well.

Good everyday care still matters. Keep the dog lean and well muscled, build fitness gradually and allow time to cool down after hard work. Check the dog after hunting and seek veterinary care for injury, pain, abnormal movement or altered breathing. A firm promise of a particular lifespan is less useful than documented health in the family and a breeder who is open about it.

## History & Origins

The Drever is Swedish as a recognised breed but has continental roots. Westphalian Dachsbracke dogs were imported into southern Sweden during the 1910s, and the first was registered by the Swedish Kennel Club in 1913. The underlying Dachsbracke type had been developed in areas including southern Germany, Tyrol and Switzerland during the nineteenth century.

In Sweden, hunters valued the low-set dog's way of driving roe deer and, later, hare, fox and other deer. The Swedish Dachsbracke Club was formed in 1944. In 1947, the Swedish variant was given the name Drever and the club became the Swedish Drever Club. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Drever as a Swedish breed in 1953.

The breed has continued to be selected as a working hunting dog. This explains both its robust construction and its strong hunting instinct today. The Drever's identity rests not only on appearance, but on its ability to follow a track accurately in Swedish country, give clear tongue and maintain a pace suited to driving game.

## Living with the Breed

The Drever is most at home when hunting or regular tracking work is a planned part of life, rather than something that may be tried later. It can live in a house or a flat, but the type of home does not meet the breed's needs by itself. A flat-dweller must arrange daily work outdoors and prevent nuisance noise; a householder still needs to train the dog and secure gates and boundaries.

Make this practical check before buying:

- **Work:** who will provide regular scent work and physical training outside the hunting season?
- **Safety:** can you use a long line, secure enclosures and reliable routines around doors, cars and hunting land?
- **Noise:** can your home cope with a powerful voice, and is there a plan if the dog starts barking through stress or lack of activity?
- **Time alone:** is there time to teach this gradually and arrange help if the dog cannot cope with the working-day routine? A Drever should not be expected to spend an entire working day alone.
- **Children and pets:** can children be supervised by an adult, and can cats or small pets have safe areas of their own?
- **Breeder:** can the breeder explain working ability, temperament, pulmonary oedema in the family and the reasoning behind the mating without making promises that nobody can keep?

A Drever can be a first dog, but only for someone willing to learn how a driving hound works and to seek support from the breeder, breed club or an experienced trainer. For a hunter who values an independent dog with a calm basic temperament, it can be both a skilled hunting partner and a close family member. For someone seeking an easily directed companion dog, the Drever is rarely the best match.

Drever

Svenska Dreverklubben

The Swedish Kennel Club

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Drever is a sturdy Swedish scent hound, low and long‑bodied yet strong and enduring. Bred to track and drive game at a steady pace, it has a clear voice, strong hunting instinct, and needs ample exercise. Friendly, affectionate, and easy‑care coated, it suits active, outdoorsy homes.

Ronny Engen

Olaf Moldal

German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh)

German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Germany (Deutsch-Kurzhaar-Verband)

The Kennel Club (UK)

Norwegian German Shorthaired Pointer Club (Norsk Vorstehhundklubb)

Svenska Vorstehklubben (Swedish Pointing Dog Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh) is a medium‑large, athletic gundog with a short, shedding coat and striking liver-and-white patterns. Energetic, people-focused and intelligent, it needs extensive daily exercise, positive training, and close family contact to stay calm and content.

Anne-Liv Sollesnes

## Quick Facts

The Alaskan Malamute is a large, powerful sledge dog for people who enjoy an active outdoor life and can provide work, training and close social contact. The breed was developed to pull heavy loads over distance, not to win short speed races. An Alaskan Malamute is strong, independent and accustomed to using its own judgement.

- The FCI places the breed in Group 5 among the Nordic sledge dogs, with the United States as its country of origin.
- The breed standard’s preferred freighting size is 63.5 cm and 38 kg for males, and 58.5 cm and 34 kg for females. There is a natural range of sizes, and function and proportions matter more than exact measurements.
- The Alaskan Malamute has a coarse outer coat and a dense, woolly undercoat that protect it in a harsh climate and shed heavily during seasonal coat changes.
- The breed ideal is friendly, affectionate and sociable with people. Its strength, prey drive and independence nevertheless call for a knowledgeable owner.
- A good routine includes daily physical and mental activity, together with regular tasks that use the dog’s stamina.

This is rarely the right choice if you mainly want a biddable dog for short walks. The breed may suit you if outdoor life is already part of your routine and you enjoy long-term training with a dog that does not follow commands automatically.

## Appearance & Coat

The Alaskan Malamute should look like the working dog it is: powerful and muscular, yet mobile, balanced and enduring. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the chest is deep and the feet are large and strong. Movement should be steady and efficient, never cumbersome or stilted.

The head is broad and the expression soft. The eyes should be brown and almond-shaped; blue eyes are a disqualifying fault under the breed standard. The well-furred tail is carried over the back like a loose, waving plume when the dog is not working. It should not be tightly curled against the back.

The coat consists of coarse guard hairs and a dense, oily, woolly undercoat that the standard describes as roughly 2.5–5 cm deep. It is short to medium along the sides and longer around the neck and shoulders, along the back, over the hindquarters and on the tail. A long, soft coat is not part of the breed ideal. Usual colours range from light grey to black and from sable to red. White predominates on the underside, parts of the legs and the facial markings; all-white is the only permitted solid colour.

Everyday coat care is mainly about running your hands through the coat and brushing out loose undercoat before it packs together. More frequent attention is needed during the major seasonal sheds. Check the skin, feet, nails and any areas where moisture or debris may remain at the same time. The breed standard says the coat should be shown naturally and not trimmed, apart from a neat outline around the feet. Veterinary advice should take priority when there is a medical need.

The heavy coat makes planning for warm weather important. Schedule demanding activity for cooler times, provide water, shade and good ventilation, and watch how the dog recovers. Persistent panting, heavy drooling, red or dry gums, anxiety, confusion, weakness or collapse may indicate heatstroke and require prompt veterinary attention.

## Temperament & Personality

The Alaskan Malamute should be affectionate and friendly, but combines its sociable nature with marked independence. It was not bred to be a one-person dog and often wants to take part in family activities. Friendliness in the standard is a breeding ideal, however, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave in every situation.

As a working polar dog, the Alaskan Malamute has had to cooperate without constant detailed direction. It may understand a task quickly and still choose something else if the reward, habit or environment is more compelling. Training works best when rules are clear, rewards are worthwhile and the same behaviour pays off consistently.

The breed’s natural prey drive affects both off-lead freedom and life with other animals. Some individuals can live comfortably with a cat or smaller dog after a careful introduction, while others need permanent separation from small pets. Assess actual history and behaviour instead of relying on breed labels or a puppy’s early calmness. The breed club’s breeding strategy states that the breed should be socially functional with other dogs and that aggressive behaviour is undesirable, but individuals and combinations differ.

## Training & Exercise

An Alaskan Malamute needs far more than access to a garden: it needs daily movement, mental activity and regular work suited to a sledge dog bred for endurance. The right amount depends on age, fitness, weather, health and the activity itself. Judge the dog’s enthusiasm, movement and recovery instead of chasing a fixed number of minutes.

Pulling, carrying a pack, longer hikes, running and tracking can give the breed purposeful work. A properly fitted harness, safe equipment and guidance from someone experienced with working sledge dogs become important as the load increases. A puppy first needs environmental exposure, play, everyday skills and gradual muscle development. Dogs may enter official Swedish polar-dog working tests only from 24 months of age. That is an eligibility rule, not proof that every two-year-old is ready for heavy work.

Practise everyday skills in short, clear sessions:

- Teach the difference between pulling work and an ordinary walk by using different equipment, cues and starting routines.
- Reward the dog when the lead hangs loose, and practise before it develops its full strength.
- Build recall gradually in a secure enclosure or on a long line, but do not plan daily life around the dog having to be off lead where wildlife is present.
- Train pauses and recovery as systematically as speed and strength.
- Use scent work, problem-solving and new environments to complement physical exercise.

If the dog’s movement deteriorates, it fails to recover normally or becomes reluctant to work, reduce the load and find the cause. Being a hardy breed does not mean it should work through pain or heat stress.

## Health

For the Alaskan Malamute, hips, elbows, eyes and polyneuropathy are the most important documented areas to check before buying a puppy. The key is to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration requirement from the breed club’s more extensive breeding recommendations.

For a Swedish litter to be registered, both parents must have an official known hip dysplasia status before mating. A known result does not automatically mean clear hips. The breed club recommends HD grade A or B and elbow dysplasia grade 0 in both parents. It also recommends that both parents have an eye examination clear of hereditary eye disease no more than 24 months before mating.

Figures in the Swedish breeding strategy show why the wider family picture matters. Among dogs hip-scored in 2020–2023, 78 per cent had grade A or B and 22 per cent grade C or D. For elbows, 95–97 per cent of the dogs examined received grade 0. Of 1,240 dogs eye-examined in 1990–2023, 12 per cent had cataracts and 82 per cent were completely clear of recorded hereditary eye disease. These figures cover examined dogs during the stated periods and do not describe the risk for a particular puppy. Ask for results from parents, siblings, previous litters and other close relatives, not just two certificates.

Alaskan Malamute polyneuropathy, AMPN, is an inherited neurological disease. Early signs may include a hoarse bark or noisy breathing and poor coordination in the hind legs; onset is normally between four and 14 months of age. The known NDRG1 variant is inherited in an autosomal recessive pattern:

- A clear dog does not carry the tested variant.
- A carrier has one copy, will not become ill from this particular variant but can pass it on.
- A genetically affected dog has two copies and must not be bred from; two carriers must not be mated together.

The breed club recommends that at least one parent has been DNA tested clear or is documented as clear through its parents. The test covers only the NDRG1 variant and does not rule out other neurological problems. Check both the test results and the wider health history.

## History & Origins

The modern Alaskan Malamute is an American reconstruction of the powerful freighting and sledge-dog type found in north-western Alaska. Malamute-type dogs kept by Inuit communities became the model for the breed, but it is more accurate to describe a reconstructed breed than an entirely unchanged line from ancient times.

The gold rush at the end of the nineteenth century created heavy demand for sledge dogs, and many types were crossed for transport and racing. In the 1920s, an American project began to collect dogs that matched the image of the hardy, heavy freighting dog. According to the Swedish breeding strategy, the so-called Kotzebue line was founded with six or seven individuals. The American Kennel Club recognised the Alaskan Malamute as a breed in 1935.

The breed’s function remains central to the standard and to Nordic breeding. The first documented import to Sweden arrived in 1976, and working tests are still used to assess strength, endurance and willingness to work. The breed should not be judged solely by a wolf-like appearance or the amount of coat.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with an Alaskan Malamute requires planning for activity, strength, prey drive, warm weather and social contact. A house with a garden does not meet those needs by itself, and living in a flat is not automatically impossible. Assess access to exercise and safe training, a cool resting place, manageable stairs, how noise may affect neighbours and a plan for times when the dog cannot come along.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a secure, trained adult may manage a few hours; the individual dog’s response should determine how quickly the time increases. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to offer a toilet break at least every six hours during the day does not mean a dog is content to be left alone for that long. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day does not fit the dog’s needs.

Two simple rules apply around children: an adult must always be present with young children, and the dog must have a protected resting place. An adult also needs to take responsibility for walks and physically demanding activities with such a strong dog. Teach children to leave the dog alone while it eats, sleeps or moves away.

If the home includes a cat, small pets or several dogs, you must be able to separate them physically. Ask the breeder about the parents’ prey drive, behaviour around resources and everyday life with other dogs, and ask how the particular puppy has responded in different situations. Early socialisation helps, but it does not remove prey drive or guarantee future compatibility.

Check before buying:

- Swedish Kennel Club registration and the parents’ official hip results.
- Hip, elbow, eye and AMPN results in line with breed-club recommendations, including dates and family history.
- How the parents work, recover and behave with people and dogs in everyday life.
- Whether at least one parent has passed an approved pulling test and how the breeder preserves the breed’s working ability.
- What support the breeder provides with training for pulling work, health, feeding and rehoming.

The breed can suit a first-time owner, but there is little room for error once an independent dog is fully grown and powerful. Practical help from the breeder, breed club and an experienced trainer should be in place before problems arise. The best match is a home that values the breed’s work as much as its appearance.

Alaskan Malamute

The Alaskan Malamute Club of the United Kingdom

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Alaskan Malamute is a large, powerful Arctic sled dog bred by the Mahlemut Inuit to pull heavy loads. It has a dense double coat that sheds heavily, a friendly, social nature, strong prey and working drive, high exercise needs, and can be independent and challenging to train.

Krzysztof Kuleczko-Osmolska

Øystein Svendsen

Frode Risdal

Toril Fuglesteg

Pointer

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The Pointer is an athletic, elegant gundog known for its distinctive pointing stance and strong scenting skills. Affectionate, sensitive, and people focused, it needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise and mental work. Its short, smooth coat is low maintenance, suiting active, outdoorsy owners.

Anne Maj Krogh

Solbergmutt

Jan Rune Gåserud

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Pinscher is a small, active and self-assured companion dog that needs far more consistent training and guidance than its size might suggest.

- The breed comes from Germany and is a breed in its own right, not a scaled-down Dobermann.
- Under the breed standard, an adult Miniature Pinscher should stand 25–30 cm and weigh 4–6 kg.
- The coat is short, smooth and easy to care for. The colours recognised in the Swedish breed standard are shades of red and black with red or rust-coloured tan markings.
- The Miniature Pinscher is lively, quick to learn and alert. Its watchdog instinct may show as barking at noises and visitors.
- Daily walks need to be combined with scent work, play, problem-solving or another form of mental activity.
- Swedish breeding work focuses particularly on kneecaps, eyes and dental health.
- The breed can live successfully in a flat and with a family, provided there is room in daily life for activity, training around everyday noises, gradual training for time alone and gentle handling.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Pinscher is compact and elegant but should look neither fragile nor exaggeratedly small. Its body should be as square as possible, with height and length roughly equal, and the short coat makes its outline easy to see. Dogs and bitches have the same standard measurements: a height of 25–30 cm at the withers and a weight of 4–6 kg.

The breed has dark, oval eyes and either erect ears or V-shaped ears that fold forwards. The tail is natural. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.

The breed standard calls for harmonious, free, ground-covering movement with a firm back. The high, exaggerated front action sometimes called a hackney gait is therefore not the ideal under the Swedish standard; it is specifically listed as a fault.

The coat should be short, dense, smooth and glossy. It normally needs no more than an occasional once-over with a soft brush or grooming mitt, plus a bath when the dog is dirty. Use the same opportunity to check the nails, skin, ears and teeth so that small changes are noticed early.

The Swedish and international FCI standards recognise two colour varieties:

- solid deer red, reddish-brown or dark red-brown
- jet black with clearly defined red or rust-coloured tan markings

Brown, blue and other so-called special colours are not included in the Swedish FCI standard. If a puppy is advertised in an unusual colour, it is sensible to ask which country’s standard the breeder is referring to.

Because the Miniature Pinscher is both small and short-coated, it may need help keeping warm in Swedish winter weather. Adjust the length of the walk to the individual dog, keep it moving and use a well-fitting coat in cold weather if it becomes tense, lifts its paws, shivers or seeks warmth. Not every dog needs a coat at the same temperature.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Pinscher is typically lively, spirited, self-assured and alert. It often wants to stay close to its family, learns quickly and notices small changes around it. These qualities can make the breed both enjoyable to train and demanding to live with: a dog that quickly discovers the right reward will also soon learn which noises, doors and movements make people react.

Its watchdog instinct should be taken seriously without being encouraged. A Miniature Pinscher may announce someone’s arrival, but in a home with neighbours the aim should be for the dog to register a noise and then settle again. Start early with calm practice around the doorbell, visitors and sounds in communal hallways. Reward quiet behaviour before barking has developed into a long sequence.

Swedish behaviour assessments give a more nuanced picture than labels such as ‘tough’ or ‘stubborn’. Results from BPH, Sweden’s Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, show curiosity, interest in food and interest in the dog’s own toy among the assessed population. Many of those dogs were less interested in greeting or playing with strangers than with people they knew. The results apply to the dogs that took part, not to every Miniature Pinscher. When choosing a puppy, the everyday behaviour of its parents and close relatives matters more than a general breed description.

Fear, aggression or constant stress should not be dismissed as the breed being a ‘big dog in a small body’. A sound Miniature Pinscher may have clear personal boundaries and be reserved, but it should be able to recover and cope with everyday life.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Pinscher needs physical exercise and mental tasks every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, pace, terrain and what the dog gets to do matter more than a number. A relaxed sniffing walk, a few short training sessions and some play can offer more than an equally long but stressful outing with no chance to explore.

A good routine combines:

- walks that allow the dog to sniff and move through varied surroundings
- short sessions on engagement, walking with you, recall and lead manners
- scent games, problem-solving or tricks
- play with a clear beginning and end
- undisturbed rest and practice in settling down

Train kindly and consistently. Short sessions, clear tasks and rewards the dog genuinely values usually work better than nagging or harsh corrections. Build recall step by step on a long line, moving to more difficult surroundings only when the dog succeeds somewhere calm. Use a lead wherever traffic, open doors or a lack of fencing could turn one quick mistake into an accident.

Get the puppy used to nail trimming, mouth and tooth checks, a harness, a coat and being lifted safely. Include calm-time practice too. A dog that is given more fast-paced activity whenever it becomes overexcited does not automatically learn how to switch off.

## Health

The Miniature Pinscher is described as a relatively healthy breed, but puppy buyers in Sweden should pay particular attention to kneecaps, eyes and teeth. These are the priorities in the Swedish breed club’s breeding strategy adopted in 2025.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position and may cause pain or lameness. The breed club recommends an official patellar examination, recorded as clear, for breeding dogs over twelve months old. Ask to see the result for both parents and check that it has been registered rather than relying on a verbal assurance.

An eye examination is recommended before breeding. The dog should be at least one year old at its first examination, and the result should ideally be no more than three years old at the time of mating. A finding must be assessed against the veterinary breeding advice, so ‘examined’ does not automatically mean ‘no findings’.

Dental health is a clear area for improvement. In the breed club’s health survey of 298 anonymous responses, 33 per cent reported tartar problems and 14 per cent reported periodontitis. Because these figures are based on owners’ own reports, they do not show how common the problems are across the whole breed. They do, however, show why dental care should not be treated as an afterthought. Brush the teeth, preferably every day, and introduce handling gradually. During the change of teeth at around five to six months, check that retained deciduous teeth are not affecting the adult bite.

Ask the breeder about health and longevity among close relatives, the family’s dental health, and whether the parents have completed BPH or MH, the Swedish mental assessment. No examination can guarantee a problem-free dog, but documented results make risk easier to judge.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Pinscher is a German pinscher breed with a history as a ratter and watchdog, not a smaller version of the Dobermann. Similarities in outline and black-and-red colouring have caused the misunderstanding, but the breed standard describes the Miniature Pinscher as a miniaturised image of the German Pinscher.

Small, smooth-coated pinscher types have deep roots in Germany. The organised development of the breed as we know it gathered pace in the 1870s, and the German pinscher club was founded in 1895. Miniature Pinschers were already numerous around 1900; the German stud book recorded about 1,300 individuals in 1925.

The first documented import to Sweden arrived in 1905. The breed is now chiefly a companion dog, but its history can still be seen in its vigilance, speed and readiness to investigate small movements in its surroundings.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Pinscher can live well in either a flat or a house, but its small size does not make daily life effortless. In a flat, training around noise, planned activity and the ability to settle are especially important. A garden may make toilet breaks easier, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different surroundings or time with the owner.

Being left alone is a trained skill and varies between individuals. A young puppy should not be left alone. Start only when the puppy feels secure in its new home, leave for a very short time and extend the period when it remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually may cope with a few hours, but a full working day away from home requires another arrangement. Take the training back a step if the dog barks, howls, paces or shows other signs of distress.

The breed can be a good family dog when an adult guides interactions with children. A Miniature Pinscher is small enough to be hurt if it is dropped, stepped on or lifted incorrectly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs its own resting place where it will be left undisturbed. The child’s age matters less than the family’s ability to respect the dog’s signals.

Introductions to other dogs should be calm and controlled. Living with a cat depends on the individuals and the way they are introduced. Particular care is needed around rodents, birds and other very small animals because the breed’s background as a ratter remains relevant; do not leave them together without secure separation.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond the advert. Ask for registered patella and eye results, enquire about dental health and BPH or MH, and, if possible, meet the mother and other adult relatives. Ask the breeder how their dogs respond to visitors, noises and handling, and how readily they settle again. The best match is not necessarily the puppy that looks boldest for five minutes, but the one with a good chance of thriving in the life you can offer.

Miniature Pinscher

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

The Miniature Pinscher is a small, square-built, muscular toy breed with a short, sleek, low-shedding coat and high-stepping gait. Energetic, bold, and alert, it’s an affectionate yet independent companion and effective little watchdog, thriving with active, engaged owners.

Håkon Nyhus Hjørnstad

Christina Romark Larsen

## Quick Facts

- The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, usually called a Toller, is a medium-sized Canadian gundog and the smallest of the retriever breeds.
- A Toller attracts waterfowl by running and playing where it can be seen along the shore. Once a bird has been shot, the dog retrieves it from land or water.
- The breed learns quickly and has a strong desire to work. It is best suited to someone who wants to train regularly, rather than simply go for walks.
- A Toller can be an excellent family dog, but is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. What matters is a willingness to learn about dog training and the ability to provide both activity and calm.
- The coat is a water-repellent double coat in shades of red or orange. White markings are common but not required.
- Before choosing a puppy, check the parents' joint, eye and DNA results, as well as the health and temperament of close relatives.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toller is an agile, compact and muscular dog built to work with stamina on land and in cold water. The ideal height is 48–51 centimetres for adult males and 45–48 centimetres for adult females. As a guide, males weigh 20–23 kilograms and females 17–20 kilograms, although weight and bone should always be in proportion to height.

The typical coat has a medium-length outer coat and a softer, dense undercoat. It may be slightly wavy over the back but is otherwise straight. The colour ranges from red to orange, often with paler feathering. White markings may appear on the tip of the tail, feet and chest or as a blaze. A dog without white markings is just as typical of the breed.

Coat care is fairly straightforward, but the double coat sheds and needs regular brushing or combing. Pay particular attention to the fine hair around the ears and to the feathering, where tangles form more readily. Hair around the feet may be trimmed, especially to stop snow from collecting, but the long, well-feathered tail should not be trimmed. Keep the nails and teeth in good condition too.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toller is usually playful and energetic, with a strong interest in working with its handler and retrieving. In the Swedish Kennel Club's summary of Behaviour and Personality Assessment in Dogs (BPH) results, the Tollers assessed scored highly for playfulness and positive energy. Sociability and confidence were closer to the average, and there was considerable variation between individuals. It is therefore wiser to assess the parents and close relatives than to expect a particular temperament from the breed name alone.

Many Tollers pay close attention to their handler and learn new exercises quickly. That same speed means they also pick up unclear rules, stress and repetitive activities that increase arousal and anticipation. The Swedish breed club's breeding policy specifically highlights sensitivity to stress and sound, as well as whining. Some individuals make a high-pitched, piercing sound when they become very excited, while others are much quieter.

The breed can be friendly yet reserved with strangers. Reserved does not mean fearful or threatening. A young dog needs calm, positive experiences of people, places and handling, without contact being forced. Ask the breeder how the parents behave in everyday life: can they greet people without becoming overexcited, recover after activity and settle in a new environment?

## Training & Exercise

A Toller needs regular opportunities to use its body, nose and brain. Its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes that will suit every adult dog. Instead, consider whether the dog receives a thoughtful mix of fitness work, unhurried sniffing walks, retrieving or search work, everyday training and recovery. The aim is a dog that is keen to work when asked and able to rest afterwards.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions often suit the breed's quick learning style. Gundog retrieving, tolling tests, tracking, scent work, obedience and agility can all provide useful outlets, but the dog does not have to compete. Everyday skills such as steadiness, recall, walking with its handler and releasing objects are just as important.

Do not train speed alone. Alternate exciting exercises with breaks, quiet transitions and waiting in a designated place. Stop while the dog can still think, and reward its ability to settle. If the dog whines, loses precision, chases movement or struggles to rest after the session, the intensity may be too high even if it still wants to continue.

Puppies should build physical strength and confidence gradually. Short explorations, play on varied surfaces and simple scent and engagement exercises are more suitable than long runs or repeated throws that involve sharp turns. Increase the load step by step and watch for tiredness during and after activity.

## Health

The Toller is generally a functional breed, but a puppy buyer should examine joint health, eyes, immune-mediated disease and the way a breeder uses breed-specific DNA tests. A long list of tests is not automatically better than a carefully planned mating; results, family history and the Swedish breed club's current recommendations need to be considered together.

Ask to see the registered hip dysplasia (HD) status of both parents and the mating's preliminary HD index. The Swedish Toller Club recommends an index of at least 100. Also ask for elbow dysplasia (ED) results and a current eye examination. For progressive rod-cone degeneration (prcd-PRA) and the neurological disease degenerative encephalopathy (DEN), the club recommends that at least one parent be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear.

Cardiac laminopathy (CLAM) is a more recently recognised recessive heart condition that can cause early death. The breed club recommends that at least one parent be tested clear or hereditarily clear. Tests are also available for conditions including juvenile Addison's disease (JADD) and cleft lip/palate and syndactyly (CLPS), which can cause a cleft lip or palate and fused toes. JADD has incomplete penetrance, which means a DNA result showing genetic risk is not the same as a definite diagnosis of disease. For recessive variants, the purpose of testing is to avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies, not automatically to exclude every healthy carrier from breeding.

The Swedish term “Toller disease” is used as an umbrella name for two immune-mediated conditions. Steroid-responsive meningitis-arteritis (SRMA) is a form of meningitis that most often affects young dogs, usually between 6 and 18 months. Signs can appear suddenly and include fever, neck pain and general ill health. Immune-mediated rheumatic disease (IMRD) more often affects dogs aged two to six and may cause stiffness after rest, shifting lameness and difficulty getting up, climbing stairs or jumping. Seek veterinary advice promptly if these signs appear, and ask the breeder about autoimmune diagnoses in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

## History & Origins

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever was developed on the Nova Scotia peninsula in Canada in the early 19th century. The aim was to create a dog that could both attract waterfowl towards the hunter and retrieve shot birds. The breed's full name therefore describes the place, the method and the job.

During tolling, the dog works along the water's edge while the hunter remains hidden. The hunter throws small objects for the dog to collect; the dog disappears from the birds' view and then appears again. This movement arouses the ducks' curiosity and draws them closer. After the shot, the same dog is sent out to retrieve. Playfulness, drive, swimming ability and dependable retrieving are therefore central breed traits.

Sources differ on which types of dog contributed to the early breeding. What is documented matters more: the Toller was developed as a Canadian working retriever for waterfowl, not as a small version of the Golden Retriever.

## Living with the Breed

The Toller is best suited to a home where training and shared activities are part of daily life, but where the dog also gets uninterrupted sleep and help settling. A flat or a house is not the deciding factor. What matters more is whether you can provide daily physical and mental activity, make time for wet walks and coat care, and maintain routines during busy weeks.

With children, the same basic rules apply as with any dog: an adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a safe resting place where it will be left alone. A young, energetic Toller may become exuberant in play. Living with cats and other dogs can work, but hunting interest, play style and previous experience vary. Make introductions calmly, use distance and gates, and do not let the puppy rehearse chasing.

Time alone should be taught gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. Begin with very short periods and increase them only while the dog can rest without distress, barking or chewing household items. Swedish animal-welfare guidance also says that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often when they are puppies or elderly. A full working day without arranged exercise and social contact is therefore not a suitable everyday solution.

The Toller is a good match if you want to develop a long-term working partnership, enjoy a quick and playful dog, and are prepared to train both drive and relaxation. If you mainly want an uncomplicated companion that is content with ordinary walks, another breed is likely to suit you better.

Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever

Swedish Kennel Club (SKK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Collegium Veterinarium (Vetsuisse Faculty, University of Zurich)

Medium, athletic retriever, the smallest of its group, bred in Nova Scotia to lure and retrieve waterfowl. Has a red, foxlike, water‑repellent coat, high intelligence, and emotional sensitivity. Needs substantial daily mental and physical activity and can excel in many dog sports.

Aud Pedersen Eriksen

Ørjan Alm

Leif Bjørnbakk

## Quick facts

Norwegian Hound is the English name for the dunkerstövare, known as the Dunker in its native Norway. It is a tireless hunting hound that gives voice on the trail and is used primarily to hunt hare and fox. The breed is described as friendly and sociable, but its hunting instinct is a defining trait. It suits a keen hunter who also wants an affectionate companion at home.

- **Size:** males stand 50–58 cm at the withers and females 47–54 cm. The ideal height is 52–54 cm for males and 49–51 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify a weight range.
- **Activity level:** energetic and tireless, with a strong hunting instinct. Needs hunting training, daily exercise and mental stimulation.
- **Grooming:** the short, dense coat is easy to care for. Routine care includes bathing when needed and regular checks of the skin, ears, nails and paws.
- **Life expectancy:** no sufficiently reliable range for the breed as a whole could be established from the kennel club and breed sources reviewed.
- **Best suited to:** an owner with a strong interest in hunting who can give the dog opportunities to work as a scent hound, alongside a sociable family life.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder how the parents hunt, what they are like at home and what health information is available about them and their relatives. Choose the breed based on its working purpose and the daily life you can realistically offer. The Swedish Kennel Club (SKK) does not recommend it solely as a companion dog.

## Appearance and coat

The Norwegian Hound is medium-sized and distinctly rectangular, with a powerful body that should convey stamina. It should be strong without appearing heavy. The head is elongated, and the ears hang close to the cheeks. The eyes have a calm, expressive look, and the tail is long with a slight upward curve.

Males stand 50–58 cm at the withers and females 47–54 cm. The coat should be straight, harsh, dense and not too short. It may be diluted black with tan markings, or blue mottled, also known as dappled or merle, with pale tan markings and white markings. Blue eyes are permitted in merle dogs, although dark eyes also occur.

Coat care is relatively straightforward. Bathe the dog when it is dirty, and adjust its grooming routine to how much it works and spends time outdoors. Ask the breeder to show you how to keep the coat clean and in good condition. They can also help you choose tools for the dense coat and explain how to tailor grooming to your dog’s needs.

Make a habit of checking the body, ears, nails and paw pads. After outings over rough ground, these checks can also help you spot wounds, ticks and skin changes. Get your dog used to gentle handling from puppyhood. Start calmly, reward cooperation and ask the breeder to show you how to examine the paws and ears without making the dog uncomfortable.

## Temperament and personality

The Norwegian Hound is described as affectionate, friendly and sociable. The breed standard highlights a steady, trusting temperament, and the Norwegian Kennel Club describes a dog that works well with its owner. These qualities can make it pleasant to live with and train. Even so, prospective puppy buyers should assess how the adult dogs actually behave in everyday family life.

The breed has a strong hunting instinct, which has been an important factor in breeding selection. It works alone as a scent hound, so it needs to solve problems in the field while maintaining a working partnership with its handler. A friendly attitude towards people does not therefore mean that the dog will automatically stay close when it picks up an interesting game trail. Everyday obedience and hunting skills need to develop side by side.

Socialisation should include calm, controlled encounters with people, dogs and different environments. The puppy needs positive experiences at a pace it can manage. Do not let it greet or play freely with every dog simply because the breed is described as sociable. The aim is for it to feel secure and remain under control even when its surroundings are exciting.

## Training and exercise

Start from the understanding that the Norwegian Hound is a hunting dog. Hunting training and work in the field are important parts of the life it was bred for. Ask the breeder how a young dog is introduced to this work and how training can progress according to age and maturity. Hunting trials and documented information about the parents’ working qualities can tell you more than a general description of the dog as active.

Alongside hunting training, the breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation. Walks, scent-search exercises and everyday obedience can all form part of the routine. Adjust the workload to the dog’s age, health and fitness, and build it up gradually. A puppy needs several shorter activities, while a healthy adult can cope with more extensive work. No fixed number of exercise minutes will suit every dog.

Spend time teaching engagement, recall, loose-lead walking and acceptance of handling. Begin in a quiet environment and use rewards your dog enjoys, such as food, play or praise. Make success easy before adding more challenging distractions. Keep the dog on a lead wherever you cannot reliably keep it under control. Its hunting instinct makes it especially important not to overestimate a recall that only works when there is no game nearby.

## Health

The SKK notes that there are too few Norwegian Hounds in Sweden to assess the breed’s health reliably. However, a Norwegian health and behaviour survey conducted in 2022 received 381 responses. This provides a broader evidence base, but it relies on owners’ reports and should be read as an overview. The fact that a breed is used for demanding hunting work does not, in itself, establish that every dog or family line is healthy.

Hip dysplasia (HD) is one of the conditions being monitored. The Norwegian Kennel Club’s (NKK) breeding programme for Norwegian hare hounds recommends hip screening for breeding dogs. Ask for the parents’ identities and documented results, and find out how the breeder takes these into account. Norwegian breeding recommendations should not be confused with Swedish registration requirements; check the current rules with the relevant kennel club before buying or breeding.

Epilepsy and hypothyroidism, an underactive thyroid gland, are specific areas of focus in the Norwegian breeding programme. The health survey also includes reports of deafness or impaired hearing. Ask about illnesses in the parents, siblings and previous offspring, rather than simply whether the two prospective parents appear healthy. Problems reported in a survey do not mean that every dog in the breed faces the same risk.

Genetic diversity is another important part of efforts to safeguard health. The breed has historically had a limited breeding pool, and controlled outcrossing has been used to broaden it. Ask how the breeder chooses pairings with regard to relatedness, health and working qualities. A thoughtful breeding programme needs to weigh several sources of information and monitor outcomes over time, rather than rely on a single test result.

## History and origins

The Norwegian Hound originated in Norway and takes its Norwegian name, Dunker, from Captain Wilhelm Conrad Dunker. During the early 19th century, he crossed various hound breeds to develop a useful hunting dog. Local Norwegian hare hounds formed part of the wider population. In 1902, the Norwegian hare hounds were divided into two main groups, which became the Dunker and the Hygen Hound. The breed’s identity remains closely tied to its work as a scent hound.

Demand declined during the Second World War but rose again afterwards, before falling once more after the 1970s. During the 1980s, the close relatedness of many dogs became a significant breeding concern. Crosses with other hound breeds were later permitted to improve genetic diversity. Conservation work continues today, focusing on both health and working ability so that the breed’s hunting qualities can be preserved within a viable population.

## Living with the breed

A Norwegian Hound needs a home where hunting is a genuine part of life. Its sociable nature is best supported by a workable plan for work, exercise and rest. Think about the whole year, including periods outside the hunting season. Tell the breeder how often you hunt and what opportunities you have to train and occupy the dog in between.

Within a family, the breed’s friendly, affectionate nature can be a great asset. The Norwegian Kennel Club’s hunting profile describes a calm, good-natured dog at home. Children still need to learn to handle the dog gently and leave it alone while it eats or sleeps. Adults are responsible for supervising interactions and ensuring that the dog’s needs for rest and activity are met.

With other animals, you need to take its hunting instinct into account. The Norwegian behaviour survey includes reports that many of the dogs want to follow game and cats. Even a sociable dog may therefore need careful introductions and close supervision in these situations. Ask about the dog’s previous experiences, and plan encounters so that you can control distance and contact. Do not assume that animals can safely live together simply because the breed has a friendly temperament.

Your living arrangements need to allow you to meet the dog’s practical needs for work and exercise. A garden alone is not a complete activity plan. Think about noise, too: barking is part of the breed’s work, but this does not tell you exactly how vocal an individual dog will be at home. Ask the breeder about day-to-day barking, visitors and how the dogs react to things happening around the house.

Time alone must be introduced gradually, even for a dog that is confident and independent while hunting. Start with very short periods and build up carefully. Arrange company and care during working days, and take your own dog’s reactions into account. If it struggles to be alone, the arrangements need to change; independence in the field is no guarantee that it can cope with long periods without people at home.

Before buying, check how the dog will get to work, what documented health and hunting information is available, and how its adult relatives behave in an ordinary home. Ask the breeder to describe both its strengths and the areas that require training. Given the right conditions, the Norwegian Hound can combine tireless work in the woods with a friendly, sociable family life.

Norwegian Hound

The Norwegian Hound is a medium-sized, tireless scenthound with a rectangular body, drop ears, and a dense, coarse coat. Bred to hunt hare and fox, giving voice as it follows the trail, it combines a strong hunting drive with a friendly, sociable nature. It is best suited to an owner with an interest in hunting who can provide hunting training, daily exercise, and mental stimulation. Its coat is easy to care for.

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