## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Lin Marie Berg

Seemore

Wenche Haave

## Quick Facts

The Irish Wolfhound is a very large, rough-coated sighthound from Ireland. It combines a sighthound's speed and hunting instinct with a generally friendly nature, but its size affects almost every practical decision, from the car and home to the way a puppy is raised.

- **Breed type:** A sighthound in FCI Group 10, originally used to hunt wolves and other large game.
- **Size:** The standard sets minimums of 79 cm and 54 kg for dogs and 71 cm and 41 kg for bitches. An average height of 81–86 cm is desirable for dogs; there is no stated maximum height or weight.
- **Build:** Powerful and muscular, but not as massive as a Great Dane. It should carry more substance than a Scottish Deerhound without losing the lines and mobility of a sighthound.
- **Temperament:** Usually friendly, affectionate and calm at home. Hunting drive can be strong and varies between individuals.
- **Activity:** Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and safe opportunities to stretch out at speed. The amount should reflect age, fitness and recovery.
- **Coat:** Rough and hard on the body, legs and head, with marked eyebrows and a beard. It needs regular attention but should not be clipped like a soft-coated companion breed.
- **Worth knowing:** The breed has a shorter life expectancy than many smaller dogs. Heart health, early puppy testing for portosystemic shunt and disease in close relatives are important questions before buying.

## Appearance & Coat

An Irish Wolfhound should be large and imposing without looking heavy or clumsy. It has a long body, deep chest, well-muscled limbs and a long, gently curved tail. Movement should be easy and active. It is less massive than a Great Dane, while carrying more weight and power than a Scottish Deerhound.

The size figures are often misunderstood. The standard gives minimum measurements for both sexes and a desirable average of 81–86 cm for dogs, but no official maximum. A bitch's size and the eventual weight of either sex cannot therefore be read as a narrow range. Proportion, strength and sound movement matter more than aiming for the largest possible dog.

The coat should be rough and hard, particularly above the eyes and under the jaw. Permitted colours include grey, brindle, red, black, pure white and fawn, as well as the colours seen in the Scottish Deerhound. Comb and brush as the individual coat requires, tease out tangles and remove dead, untidy hair without stripping away the protective topcoat. Check the beard, ears, feet, nails and skin too. Bathing should be guided by dirt, skin condition and daily life, not a fixed timetable.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Wolfhound is generally friendly and people-oriented, but a breed description cannot guarantee the character of every dog. Early socialisation, the parents' temperaments and the dog's own experiences all affect confidence and sociability. Because of its size, even an enthusiastic greeting, play or a sudden pull on the lead calls for good control.

This is a sighthound with a hunting background. A dog that is quiet indoors may react in an instant to a deer, hare or running cat. Off-lead freedom should therefore depend on the individual's proven recall and the surroundings, not on the assumption that a gentle manner means little prey drive. A securely fenced area is often the best place for full-speed running.

Many live happily with other dogs. Life with cats or smaller animals is more individual: a puppy may learn the rules at home without losing its chase response outdoors. Introduce animals calmly, give the cat escape routes and keep physical control of the dog until their behaviour together is predictable.

A steady adult can be gentle and patient with children, but active adult supervision is still essential. The dog's body can knock over a small child unintentionally. Teach children to leave the dog alone while it eats or sleeps and give the dog a resting place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

An Irish Wolfhound needs consistent, kind training that still works when the dog outweighs its handler. Start early with attention, loose-lead walking, recall, handling and calm passage past people, dogs and wildlife. Short, clear sessions and rewards usually suit the breed better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive drills.

Build recall gradually, moving from easy settings to more difficult distractions. Use a long line in unfenced places until recall remains reliable around likely prey. No training method can promise that a sighthound will always abandon a chase, so a lead and fencing are safety tools, not signs of failed training.

An adult benefits from varied walks, scent-based activities and opportunities to move more freely in a safe place. No evidence-based number of minutes suits every dog. Instead, watch its gait, breathing, willingness and recovery during and after exercise. Increase exertion gradually and adjust it in hot weather, during illness or when fitness is poor.

Puppies grow quickly and should be allowed to play and move at their own pace. Avoid long repetitive distances, high jumping and hard fitness work before the body has matured. Everyday movement, play on suitable surfaces, breaks and new environments build both body and confidence. Ask for advice based on the individual puppy's growth and body condition rather than using a universal minutes-per-month formula.

## Health

A healthy start depends on choosing a breeder carefully, followed by appropriate care throughout life. Irish Wolfhounds have a shorter life expectancy than many smaller breeds. Swedish and international evidence particularly highlights heart disease, cancer, pneumonia and portosystemic shunt. Individual dogs may remain healthy for a long time, but the breed's risks should not be played down.

Dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, and the rhythm disorder atrial fibrillation occur in the breed. Atrial fibrillation can be present before an owner notices clear symptoms and may precede heart muscle disease. Echocardiography shows the heart's structure and pumping function, while an ECG assesses its rhythm; the two tests answer different questions and may need to be combined. Ask when both parents were last examined, which methods were used and what is known about hearts in earlier generations. A normal result reduces uncertainty at that time but cannot guarantee that disease will never develop.

In a portosystemic shunt, or PSS, blood is diverted past the liver. The breed has an established early bile-acid check, usually performed when puppies are about six to eight weeks old and before they leave the breeder. Ask to see the litter's results and how any abnormal value was followed up. This is more informative than a general assurance that the line is healthy.

Osteosarcoma and other cancers, as well as serious pneumonia, are among the breed club's health priorities. Persistent lameness, pain or swelling needs veterinary assessment. Seek help promptly for marked lethargy or respiratory symptoms too, as pneumonia can develop rapidly and severely in this breed.

The deep chest also brings a risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV. Repeated unsuccessful attempts to vomit, a rapidly swollen or painful abdomen, pronounced restlessness, pale gums, weakness or collapse are emergency warning signs. Go straight to a vet; this cannot be treated at home. Discuss individual risk and possible preventive gastropexy with a vet. The operation reduces the risk of the stomach twisting but does not prevent every episode of bloating.

When assessing a litter, distinguish compulsory registration rules from breed-club health recommendations. The absence of a compulsory result does not make a health question unimportant. Ask for dated examination reports, the puppy's PSS result and straightforward information about longevity and causes of death among close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Irish Wolfhound has roots in Ireland's large hunting dogs, but the modern breed is the result of a documented nineteenth-century reconstruction, not an unchanged line stretching back to antiquity. In AD 391, a Roman consul wrote about Irish dogs sent to Rome. Such dogs were used to hunt wolves and other large game.

Once wolves disappeared from Ireland, the need for these dogs declined and the type came close to extinction by the end of the seventeenth century. In the later nineteenth century, Captain George Augustus Graham gathered the remaining dogs thought to represent the type and rebuilt the breed. Scottish Deerhounds were used in the process, with occasional Borzoi and Great Dane crosses. The breed was shown in its own class in 1879, and the Irish breed club was founded in 1885.

This modern history explains both the relationship with other large sighthounds and why legends about ancient wolfhounds should not be treated as a complete pedigree for today's dogs. The first Irish Wolfhound arrived in Sweden in 1931, and the Swedish Irish Wolfhound Club was formed in 1976.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Wolfhound is chiefly about space, safety and planning ahead. The breed can live in a flat if it receives suitable activity and the home works in practice, but a very large dog needs room to turn and rest, non-slip surfaces and an easy route outside. Several flights of stairs without a lift are especially difficult for a growing puppy or an injured adult that cannot be carried.

Test the car with an adult dog in mind: it must be able to lie safely, get in without risky jumps and still be transported if it becomes ill. Check that gates and fences can contain a tall, fast dog. A supportive bed, stable food and water bowls and enough room around meals also make daily life easier.

Time alone must be introduced gradually in short, secure stages. A calm breed is not automatically comfortable with long days alone, and a large distressed dog can harm both itself and the home. Arrange a dog sitter or other help before buying if working days will regularly exceed what the dog can manage.

These questions are particularly useful when choosing a breeder:

- Can you meet the dam, and how do both parents behave around people, dogs and ordinary environments?
- When were both parents last examined by echocardiogram and ECG, and what results are known in close relatives?
- Has the whole litter been tested for PSS before leaving, and will you receive a copy of the result?
- What longevity and causes of death are known among the parents, siblings and previous offspring?
- How will you provide secure exercise, transport, insurance and help if the dog cannot walk unaided?

The right home need not be the largest, but it must be practically prepared. Someone who appreciates a friendly sighthound, can manage its hunting drive and has the budget and space for a very large dog may find a distinctive companion. Anyone wanting reliable off-lead freedom everywhere, owning a small car or expecting a dog to tolerate long days alone should choose another breed.

Irish Wolfhound

Irish Wolfhound Club of Great Britain

Irish Wolfhound Club of Northern Ireland

The Irish Wolfhound Club (Germany)

Irish Wolfhounds are giant, tall hounds with a strong yet graceful build and a rough, weather‑resistant coat. Calm, gentle and sensitive, they are low‑key indoors but need steady exercise and space. They have notable health risks and a relatively short lifespan, so careful breeding and care are vital.

Roar Strand

## Quick Facts

The Italian Greyhound is the smallest breed in the sighthound group, but it is built like a sighthound in miniature. The breed standard sets a height of 32–38 centimetres for both sexes and says that the dog may weigh no more than 5 kilograms. There is no official minimum or narrow “ideal weight”; assess body condition, muscle and overall balance instead.

- Italy is the country of origin. The breed is FCI number 200 and belongs to group 10, section 3.
- The breed standard describes the temperament as lively, affectionate and docile. This is the ideal set by the standard, not a guarantee of how every dog will respond to strangers, being left alone or new surroundings.
- The short, fine coat offers limited protection from the weather. Clothing may be needed when it is cold, wet or windy, but this depends on the dog, the conditions and its activity level.
- Seeing something move can quickly trigger a chase response. Recall is important training, but a lead or securely enclosed area remains the safe choice near traffic, wildlife and small animals.
- A young dog needs protection from bad landings as well as free, varied movement that develops muscle, balance and bone.

The breed suits someone who wants to share life with a small, fast and alert dog and can combine everyday exercise with sensible safety measures. Small size does not mean that the dog has no need for exercise.

## Appearance & Coat

The Italian Greyhound should be square or nearly square: the body is the same length as, or slightly shorter than, the height at the withers. Fine bone, a deep chest, a tucked-up underline and long legs create the sighthound outline. “Fine-boned” does not mean weak, poorly muscled or underweight.

The standard calls for a springy, harmonious trot that covers ground. An exaggerated high, short step resembling hackney action is a fault, even if it may look elegant. At the gallop, the breed should show the speed and spring of a sighthound.

The coat should be short, silky and fine all over, without feathering. Under the FCI standard, only solid black, grey or isabella in different shades is accepted. White is tolerated only on the chest and feet. Red, brindle and other markings are therefore not standard colours in Sweden, although other registries or everyday colour names can cause confusion.

Coat care is simple and done as needed. Wipe away dirt, remove loose hair with a soft brush or grooming mitt, and bathe the dog when it is dirty. Check the skin, nails, pads, ears and mouth at the same time.

The fine coat provides little insulation against wind and rain. A well-fitting coat can make a walk more comfortable in poor weather, but no single temperature threshold is useful for every dog. Watch for shivering, a tense posture, reluctance to move or attempts to seek shelter. Remove or adjust clothing if the dog becomes warm as the pace increases.

## Temperament & Personality

The Italian Greyhound should be lively, affectionate and docile, and many seek close contact. This does not mean that every dog is quiet, wants to sit on a lap or can be left alone without training. Inheritance, experience and daily surroundings shape the individual.

The breed can switch quickly between rest and intense play. A dog that can move, sniff, learn and rest without disturbance is more likely to settle indoors.

The Swedish BPH and MH behaviour-assessment sample is too small to support firm conclusions about the entire breed. Meet the parents and adult relatives instead. Observe how they recover after surprises, greet unfamiliar people and relax when nothing is happening.

With children, the way they interact matters more than age alone. An adult should supervise play, the dog must be able to move away, and children should not carry it or disturb it while it sleeps or eats. The dog can be injured if dropped, run into or involved in rough play with a much larger dog. Match play styles and stop before the pace becomes uncontrolled.

Living with cats can work after a calm, controlled introduction, but previous experience is no guarantee outdoors. Movement may arouse the urge to chase. Birds, rabbits and small rodents should be kept physically separate. Adapt gates, leads and separate rooms to the dog's actual behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

The Italian Greyhound needs to move every day, have opportunities to run safely and train in short, enjoyable sessions. No reliable rule in minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery determine the balance between walks, play and free movement.

The breed club's breeding strategy highlights long walks, varied training and safe free running. In an enclosed area, the dog can change pace without the risks from traffic and wildlife found in open spaces. Check fencing, gates and the ground. Train recall and the habit of checking in voluntarily, but do not expect them to remove the chase response.

A puppy needs a balance between physical challenge and protection. The breed club's strategy recommends early movement over varied surfaces and safe free activity to build muscle and bone. Let the puppy move at its own pace on surfaces with good grip. Prevent falls from high furniture, poor landings on slippery floors and collisions with larger dogs. Introduce stairs, jumping and dog sports gradually as body control develops.

Use reward-based training in short sessions. Walking well on the lead, calm handling of feet and mouth, waiting at doors and having a safe resting place are particularly valuable everyday skills.

In cold or wet weather, clothing and several shorter outings may work better than a walk during which the dog becomes stiff with cold. Choose sheltered routes and add indoor scent work. If the dog limps, avoids putting weight on a leg or suddenly refuses to move, stop the activity and have it assessed by a vet.

## Health

The Italian Greyhound is not covered by a breed-specific health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026. This does not make health examinations unimportant. The current Swedish breeding strategy recommends an eye examination for prospective parents before mating. It also encourages an official patella examination and having a vet listen to the heart before breeding. Regular dental care is another priority.

Owner surveys, insurance statistics and veterinary records collect information in different ways, and several Swedish datasets are small. They cannot provide a certain risk for an individual dog. Eyes, teeth, kneecaps and fractures of the radius and ulna are still relevant questions because they recur in the available material.

It is important to distinguish between two kinds of dental problem. Regular oral care and veterinary checks help prevent ordinary periodontal disease. Familial enamel hypoplasia, FEH, is instead a recessively inherited enamel defect linked to the ENAM gene. It can cause pitting, discolouration and abnormal tooth shape. UC Davis stresses that the FEH variant is not associated with periodontal disease; a DNA result therefore does not replace dental care.

Genetic risk assessments are available internationally for primary closed-angle glaucoma, PCAG, and progressive retinal atrophy, PRA. They do not give a simple answer that a dog is clear or will become affected. The PCAG test concerns two linked risk variants found in many, but not all, affected dogs in the study. The PRA result combines five risk regions, and other genetic forms may exist. These tests are not Swedish registration requirements and do not replace an eye examination.

Small puppies may jump from a height before they can control the landing, and the Swedish material mentions forearm fractures. Use non-slip flooring, controlled play and protection from high falls. Do not keep a healthy puppy still; varied, safe movement helps build the body.

Ask the breeder to show the examination and test results and explain how they were considered when the mating was planned. Also ask about dental, eye, knee and heart health, and fractures among close relatives. “Health tested” is not enough; ask for the test name, date, result and limitations.

## History & Origins

The breed standard describes a route from small sighthounds at the pharaohs' courts, through Greece, to Italy at the beginning of the fifth century BC. It also says that the breed's most important development took place at Renaissance courts. This is the official account, not evidence of an unbroken modern pedigree or every later royal anecdote.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes hunting small game as a historical role and further development in Italy, Germany and Austria. The companion role and sighthound qualities belong together: quick reactions, visually triggered pursuit and the ability to gallop remain.

In the FCI standard, Italy is the country of origin and the breed belongs to the sighthounds, not the toy and companion group. Its needs should therefore be considered those of a small sighthound, even if it enjoys resting close to the family.

## Living with the Breed

An Italian Greyhound can live well in a flat if it can be taken out easily, exercises every day, can run safely and has somewhere undisturbed to rest. Routines matter more than the size of the home. Slippery floors, uncontrolled jumps and long days alone do not become suitable simply because the dog is small.

Time alone should be taught gradually. Start when the dog has been out and is calm, leave for a short time and increase only when it can rest. A camera can show what happens, but a second dog is not a reliable solution. If the dog barks, howls, destroys things or cannot take food, take a step back in training; seek professional help if the problem is pronounced.

House training is a training issue, not a proven breed defect. Give frequent opportunities after sleep, meals and play, go outside with the dog and reward success. Protection from the weather may help, but consistent opportunities and supervision matter more than a special indoor toilet.

Put rugs where the dog slips, provide an undisturbed resting place and prevent unsafe high jumps. At the same time, let the dog explore different surfaces and use its body. Children and larger dogs require supervision; cats require a slow introduction and the option of separation.

Before buying a puppy, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- When were the parents' eyes examined, and what were the results?
- Are official patella results available, and did a vet listen to each parent's heart before breeding?
- Were FEH, PCAG or PRA risk panels used, and how should these particular results be interpreted?
- What is known about dental health, fractures, eye problems and knee problems in close and older relatives?
- How do the parents behave around new people, surfaces, handling, rest and short periods alone?
- How have the puppies been helped to develop balance, muscle, confidence in different environments and everyday routines?

A good match requires appreciation of the sighthound's speed and sensitivity, the ability to support safe physical development and a willingness to teach everyday life step by step. The Italian Greyhound can then be both a close companion and an active, capable little dog.

Italian Greyhound

The Italian Greyhound Club (UK)

The Italian Greyhound is a tiny, fine‑boned sighthound with a short, low‑shedding coat and elegant movement. Affectionate, sensitive and people‑oriented, it bonds closely, needs warmth, gentle training, moderate exercise with safe sprints, and careful handling to protect its delicate limbs.

Mylene Røste Væringstad

## Quick Facts

- The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey), usually called the gråhund in Sweden, is a Norwegian elk-hunting dog and one of the Nordic hunting spitz breeds.
- The breed mainly works off lead: it searches independently for elk and barks steadily once the elk stands.
- The breed standard gives an ideal height of 52 cm for males and 49 cm for females, but no official weight.
- The Grey Norwegian Elkhound is fearless, bold and energetic. Hunting drive, independence and barking are central working traits.
- Its dense double coat is grey with a dark mask and paler areas. The coat sheds and needs extra brushing when the undercoat comes loose.
- The breed is best suited to someone who can provide genuine hunting work or another demanding, regular occupation. The Swedish Kennel Club describes it as unsuitable as a companion dog alone.

## Appearance & Coat

The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey) is a medium-sized, square and compact spitz built for agility and sustained work in woodland. The body should be strong without becoming heavy, the ears small and erect, and the tail tightly curled over the centre line of the back. The ideal height is 52 cm for males and 49 cm for females. The breed standard gives no weight, so body condition and function are better guides than a general weight range.

The coat consists of a coarse, straight topcoat and a soft, dense undercoat. It is medium-length and lies shorter on the head and the front of the legs, while the ruff, thighs, backs of the forelegs and tail carry more coat. The colour may be darker or lighter grey because the topcoat has black tips. The chest, abdomen, legs, underside of the tail and the distinct harness marking are paler. The ears and front of the muzzle form a dark mask.

The coat does not need clipping. Brush it regularly, and more often when the undercoat is being shed, to remove loose hair and check the skin. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than following a fixed timetable. Check the paws, nails, skin and eyes at the same time, especially after hunting in dense terrain. Adjust work and recovery to the weather and the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey) is fearless, energetic and accustomed to making decisions at a distance from its handler. That does not mean the breed should be harsh or aggressive. A sound Grey Norwegian Elkhound should be able to switch between independent work in the forest and co-operation with its handler, but it is unlikely to be as responsive in every situation as a breed developed mainly for close handler work.

Barking is one of the breed's tools. During off-lead elk hunting, the dog searches independently and uses a calm, steady bark to show the hunter where the elk is standing. The same tendency may appear at home when the dog responds to movement, sounds or anticipation. Anyone living in a property with poor sound insulation should assess the individual dog's noise level and teach calm behaviour from the start. Promising a completely quiet Grey Norwegian Elkhound would not be realistic.

The breed can live well in a family, but “family dog” must not be taken to mean that its need to hunt disappears or that every individual will automatically suit children and other animals. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a protected place to rest undisturbed. Introduce other dogs calmly. Cats and small animals require particular thought because strong hunting motivation may be directed towards animals that run. Assess the individual dog's experience and behaviour rather than relying on a breed-wide guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

The Grey Norwegian Elkhound needs more than walks around the block. For most individuals, hunting is the most breed-appropriate outlet, and the Swedish Kennel Club considers the breed unsuitable as a companion dog alone. If the dog does not hunt, it needs a considered plan that might include tracking, search exercises, longer outings over varied ground and tasks that use scenting ability, stamina and problem-solving. These activities must be regular and meaningful enough; an occasional enrichment toy does not replace the work for which the breed was created.

There is no credible number of minutes that suits every Grey Norwegian Elkhound. Instead, assess whether the dog works both physically and mentally, can settle afterwards and recovers normally by the following day. Increase the workload gradually for puppies and young dogs. Long runs, hard pulling work and full days in the field should wait until the body is mature and fitness has been built step by step.

Training works best when it is reward-based, clear and varied. Start early with attention, recall, loose-lead walking, handling and a cue to interrupt barking or activity. Begin where distractions are mild and increase the difficulty slowly. Hunting interest can outweigh a familiar recall cue, so use a long line or enclosed area whenever safety is uncertain. The aim is not to remove the dog's independence but to build habits that make it manageable.

Plan for rest as well. A dog that becomes highly aroused at every sound, constantly patrols the garden or struggles to lie down after activity needs help learning to settle. Reward calm choices, reduce unnecessary triggers and make a clear distinction between work and recovery.

## Health

The Grey Norwegian Elkhound is described as generally healthy, but hip dysplasia and hereditary glaucoma are important areas to check. The Swedish breed clubs' breeding strategy also discusses conditions including PRA and hereditary kidney failure, but the evidence does not support turning every condition mentioned into a mandatory test or a fixed risk for every dog.

For breeding in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed has a hip dysplasia index, and an average index above 100 for the proposed pairing is recommended. Dogs graded D or E for hip dysplasia may not be used for breeding in this breed. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the parents' registered results and the pairing's current index, rather than accepting only that the hips have been “checked”.

A variant in the ADAMTS10 gene causes a recessively inherited form of primary open-angle glaucoma in the Norwegian Elkhound (Grey). The Swedish Kennel Club centrally records DNA results under a level 1 health programme. A carrier is not expected to develop this particular genetic form, but two carriers must not be mated. A genetically affected dog can be expected to develop the disease and must not be used for breeding. Central recording means that the result can be checked through the Swedish Kennel Club's services; it does not mean that the 2026 Swedish registration rules require a DNA result from every parent.

Glaucoma is painful and can lead to blindness. A red or enlarged eye, a dilated pupil that responds poorly to light, squinting or a greyish cornea requires prompt veterinary assessment. Do not wait for the next routine appointment.

The Swedish Kennel Club also records DNA tests for ITGA10-related dwarfism at level 1. This condition is also recessive: clear dogs do not carry the variant, carriers can pass it on without developing dwarfism themselves, and genetically affected dogs are expected to have the condition. Ask the breeder how the ADAMTS10 and ITGA10 results have been interpreted for the particular pairing. Also ask for an open account of glaucoma, PRA, kidney disease, skin lumps, mobility problems and work-related injuries in close relatives. Family history matters even when there is no simple test.

## History & Origins

The Grey Norwegian Elkhound has the form of a Nordic hunting spitz and a long history of use in Scandinavia, but an unbroken line from Stone Age or Viking dogs has not been documented. The Norwegian Kennel Club describes such claims as myths and places the development of the modern breed in the selective breeding of the nineteenth century. There is an important difference between an old type of dog and a breed with a documented stud book and standard.

A grey elkhound was shown in Kristiania, now Oslo, in 1877. The dog Bamse, born in 1865 and known as Gamle Bamse Gram, became important in the early documented breeding population. Norway published the first breed standard in 1905. In Sweden, the Grey Norwegian Elkhound and the Jämthund remained less clearly separated for many years before standards, breed organisations and hunting trials contributed to a clearer division during the twentieth century.

Work has remained central throughout. The Grey Norwegian Elkhound is used mainly as an off-lead elk dog that holds game at bay, but it can also work on a lead. During off-lead hunting it ranges away from the handler, finds the animal and tries to keep it in place with a calm standing bark so that the hunter can approach. Hunting trials have therefore influenced which qualities are preserved in breeding.

## Living with the Breed

The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey) is best suited to a home where someone wants to live with a working hunting dog, not merely its appearance. The key question is not whether the home is a house or a flat, but whether the dog receives the right work, recovery and everyday training. A flat may work for an individual dog, but sound insulation, barking, access to the countryside and daily practicalities must be assessed honestly.

A garden is useful but does not replace hunting, training or walks. Fencing needs to be secure, and the dog should not be left outside to invent its own occupation; that can reinforce barking and guarding. Being left alone should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in how quickly they learn to rest without company.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to the following:

- Do I have a realistic long-term plan for hunting or equally demanding scent and terrain work?
- Can I manage a dog that makes its own decisions and may sometimes choose game over my recall cue?
- Can my living environment accommodate a dog with a clear tendency to use its voice?
- Can I provide safe exercise, recovery, and coat and body checks after work in the forest?
- Can the breeder show official hip results, the relevant index, DNA results or a well-reasoned mating plan, and openly discuss health in the family?

For someone seeking an independent elk-hunting dog with a strong desire to work, the Grey Norwegian Elkhound can be a highly capable partner. For someone who mainly wants an easy-going companion, other breeds are likely to be a better fit.

Norwegian Elkhound (Grey)

Norsk Elghundklubb

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (SKK)

Ancient Nordic spitz bred for moose hunting; medium, sturdy and square with a thick grey double coat and curled tail. Loyal, vocal and independent, with strong guarding and prey instincts. Needs experienced, consistent training plus plenty of daily exercise and mental work.

Nils-Harald Huset

Gokstadhaugen

Bjørn Stolt

Afghan Hound

The Afghan Hound Club of the United Kingdom

Societé Centrale Canine (France)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Ancient sighthound with tall, elegant build and long silky coat needing frequent grooming. Aloof with strangers but affectionate with family, independent and sensitive to harsh handling. Requires calm, positive training, secure exercise, and careful health and coat care.

Gro Helena Landfald

Svava Arnorsdottir

## Quick Facts

The Borzoi is a large Russian sighthound that combines a calm manner at home with a strong prey drive and a very fast gallop. In Sweden, the breed is kept primarily as a companion, but its original working style lives on in lure coursing, in which the dog chases an artificial lure under controlled conditions.

- The desired height at the withers is 75–85 cm for males and 68–78 cm for females.
- The breed is generally quiet indoors, independent and neutral to friendly towards people.
- Fast movement in the distance can trigger a chase; a lead, long line or fully enclosed area is therefore a central part of everyday life.
- The long, silky coat needs regular brushing and can shed heavily at certain times.
- The Borzoi is best suited to someone who appreciates a large, sensitive dog and does not expect to let it off the lead in open country.

## Appearance & Coat

The Borzoi is tall, lean and slightly elongated, yet should also be strong and well muscled. Its long, narrow head, deep chest, pronounced abdominal tuck and gently arched topline create the breed's distinctive outline. The bone should be strong without being coarse. The typical trot is long and effortless; when chasing, the dog shifts into a very fast gallop.

The coat is long, light and silky. It may be wavy or form large curls and is shorter on the head, ears and insides of the legs. Longer feathering appears on areas including the neck, chest, backs of the legs and tail. Many colours and colour combinations occur.

Expect to brush the coat a couple of times a week and more often during a moult. Work through to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the long feathering, where mats can hide. Check the nails, paws, ears and mouth at the same time. The coat does not need to be kept in show condition to remain healthy, but mats must not be allowed to pull on the skin. The Borzoi is not a good choice for anyone who wants a home free from dog hair.

## Temperament & Personality

The Borzoi is usually calm, intelligent and independent, with a keen awareness of movement around it. The breed standard describes its attitude towards people as neutral to friendly. Many individuals are reserved with strangers and bark little, but that is not the same as being fearful or detached from the family. A confident Borzoi can be deeply affectionate without constantly looking for instructions.

The breed's calm reputation does not guarantee that every individual will suit every child or dog. Early, considerate socialisation and the parents' temperaments matter greatly. A dog and young child should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left alone. Because a Borzoi is large and fast, an adult should also take responsibility for walks.

Many Borzois live happily with other dogs. A familiar cat in the home may also be compatible, particularly after a carefully managed introduction. This does not automatically make the dog reliable around fast-moving cats or other small animals outdoors. The Swedish breeding strategy for the breed highlights this precise distinction: an animal that belongs to the household may be treated very differently from one that runs away outside.

## Training & Exercise

Training works best as calm teamwork with clear rewards, short sessions and purposeful variety. The Borzoi is intelligent but was bred to make rapid decisions at a distance. Repetition without a clear purpose may therefore reduce engagement, whilst harsh methods risk both welfare and the relationship. Start early with attention to the handler, loose-lead walking, stopping at doors and gates, cooperative handling and a strong recall cue.

Recall matters, but it must not be the only safety plan. When a Borzoi sees possible prey, the decision to chase can happen in an instant. Use a lead or long line where wildlife may appear and choose a fully enclosed area for running freely. In Sweden, dogs may not run loose where wild animals may be present between 1 March and 20 August; during the rest of the year, owners must still prevent their dogs from driving or pursuing wildlife.

An adult Borzoi needs daily exercise combining walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, short training sessions and chances to stretch out in a secure setting. There is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, health, the terrain and its recovery. Lure coursing can provide a controlled outlet for breed-typical behaviour in a healthy, mature dog.

Puppies grow quickly and can reach high speeds at an early age. Increase walks and training gradually, and avoid pushing a puppy through long, repetitive or high-impact sessions. Free movement at its own pace on safe ground, sufficient rest and a well-planned feeding routine discussed with the breeder and vet provide a better foundation than trying to exhaust the puppy.

## Health

Sweden's breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Borzoi as a generally healthy breed and has not found a need for a dedicated health programme. That does not mean the breed is free from disease or that all lines are alike. Parts of the evidence come from owner surveys and older insurance data, so percentages should not be treated as an exact risk for an individual dog.

In the 2021 Swedish health survey, gastrointestinal problems were the most commonly reported category, although diagnoses were often missing. The survey also mentions osteosarcoma, a form of bone cancer, among cancers seen in the breed. Do not ask only for a standard set of test results. Ask the breeder to describe the health and longevity of the parents, siblings and older close relatives, including gastrointestinal problems, gastric dilatation-volvulus, cancer, sudden deaths and temperament.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus is an immediately life-threatening emergency that most often affects large dogs. Unproductive retching, restlessness, a rapidly swollen abdomen and severe pain require an immediate call to a vet and urgent travel to a clinic. Discuss preventive routines with your vet; the Swedish Kennel Club advises avoiding exercise immediately before feeding and for the first few hours afterwards.

A DNA test for degenerative myelopathy, DM, needs careful interpretation. The Swedish breeding strategy describes it as a risk test, not a diagnosis, and several other conditions can produce similar signs. A result should therefore be considered alongside family history and veterinary expertise, not used as a stand-alone prediction of the dog's future.

## History & Origins

The Borzoi was developed in Russia as a fast, strong and weather-resistant hunting dog. The official FCI history traces the breed's development from the fifteenth century and explains how several sighthound and local dog types contributed to the modern Borzoi. The dogs were used mainly for hare and fox and, to a lesser extent, wolf.

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the Russian nobility organised large hunts involving many sighthounds, scenthounds and riders. The work required a dog to detect movement, accelerate rapidly and act without constant human direction. This explains much of today's combination of calmness, independence and strong responses to visual stimuli.

In 1888, the Moscow Hunting Society adopted a common breed standard. Its main principles remain in the current standard. In Sweden, the Borzoi is now above all a companion dog; lure coursing allows it to use aspects of its natural movement and hunting pattern without live quarry.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Borzoi takes more planning than its calm indoor behaviour might first suggest. The home needs enough space for such a large dog to turn, lie fully stretched out and move without slipping. A flat can work if stairs, transport, coat care, toilet breaks and access to a secure place to run are properly managed, but a private garden replaces neither walks nor activity. An ordinary fence is not automatically a secure exercise area; assess its height, gates and weak points for the individual dog.

Time alone must be introduced gradually and assessed for each dog. A young puppy should not be left alone, whereas a securely trained adult may cope with a few hours. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, with puppies and older dogs going out more often. Plan around the dog's actual responses rather than assuming a quiet dog is always content.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can I provide safe daily exercise and regular opportunities to run in a fully enclosed area?
- Do I accept that the dog will often need to stay on a lead where wildlife or small animals may appear?
- Do I have the space, suitable car or other travel arrangement and budget for a very large dog?
- Can I care for a long coat and live with heavy shedding?
- Can the breeder describe temperament, health and longevity across several generations rather than simply show isolated test results?

For someone who values an independent partnership and can manage prey drive, size and exercise in practical ways, the Borzoi can be a calm, close family companion with breathtaking speed when given the right outlet.

Borzoi

The Borzoi Club

Svenska Vinthundklubben (Swedish Sighthound Club)

Verein für Deutsche Windhunde (German Sighthound Association)

The Borzoi is a tall, elegant Russian sighthound with a flowing, wavy coat and long, narrow head. Calm, sensitive, and catlike indoors, it is capable of sudden high-speed sprints outside and has a strong chase instinct, needing gentle training, socialisation, and secure exercise areas.

Espen Andre Uvaag

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Monica Christine Tindslett

Jogeir Saur

## Quick Facts

- Lively, confident, and full of character, the Wire Fox Terrier is often described as a “big dog in a small body” with an endless zest for life.  
- Originally bred as a fox-hunting terrier, this breed has a strong prey drive, quick reactions, and a love for chasing anything that moves.  
- The wire, weather-resistant coat hardly sheds, but it needs regular trimming or hand stripping to stay in good condition and keep the terrier look.  
- Wire Fox Terriers are intelligent, trainable, and clownish, but they can also be stubborn and independent, so consistent training is key.  
- They usually thrive in active homes that offer plenty of exercise, interactive play, and mental challenges every day, rather than a quiet, low-energy lifestyle.  


## Appearance & Coat

The Wire Fox Terrier is a compact, medium to small terrier with a sturdy, athletic body and a very alert expression. Most adults stand around 36 to 39 centimeters at the shoulder and typically weigh between 7 and 9 kilograms, though there can be individual variation. They should never look fine-boned or fragile. Instead, a good Wire Fox Terrier combines strength and agility, which reflects their history as working terriers that had to follow horses and hounds in the field. The overall outline is slightly longer in leg than some other terrier breeds, with a short, strong back and well laid-back shoulders that allow a free and lively movement.

One of the most distinctive features of the Wire Fox Terrier is the head. It is long and flat, with a strong muzzle that tapers slightly and powerful jaws. The eyes are small, dark, and full of life, often giving the impression that the dog is always planning its next move. Ears are V-shaped and fold neatly forward, framing the face and adding to that classic terrier expression. The tail is usually carried upright and proudly when the dog is alert or on the move.

The coat is perhaps the breed’s trademark. As the name suggests, the Wire Fox Terrier has a dense, wiry outer coat that feels harsh to the touch, with a softer undercoat underneath. This double coat provided essential protection against rain, cold, and rough undergrowth when the dogs worked in the field. When well maintained, the coat creates a slightly broken, crisp texture that follows the body without looking fluffy or soft. The hair on the legs and muzzle is typically a little longer and can be shaped to give that characteristic bearded and leg-furnished terrier look.

Color is usually predominantly white, which historically made the dog more visible during a hunt. Markings in black, tan, or a combination of both are very common. Many Wire Fox Terriers are white with black patches on the body and tan points on the head and around the ears. Some dogs may have more or less color, but a clearly white background is typical and preferred.

Coat care is an important part of living with a Wire Fox Terrier. The breed is low shedding compared with many others, but that does not mean low maintenance. The harsh texture is best preserved through regular hand stripping, which means plucking out dead hairs by hand or with a stripping knife instead of cutting them with clippers. Many pet owners choose to have the coat professionally hand stripped a few times a year, or they learn to do it themselves. If the coat is regularly clipped instead, it often becomes softer and curlier over time and can lose some of its protective quality.

Basic home grooming is still essential even if you rely on a groomer. Brushing a few times a week helps to prevent tangles and keeps the legs and beard clean. Because facial hair can trap food and dirt, it is wise to gently clean the beard after meals. Regularly check the ears, nails, and teeth as part of a grooming routine. With the right care, a Wire Fox Terrier keeps its stylish, crisp look and stays comfortable in all seasons.  


## Temperament & Personality

The Wire Fox Terrier is famous for having a bold, spirited, and cheerful temperament. This is not a shy or reserved breed. Most individuals greet life head-on, with a sense of curiosity and an eagerness to join in whatever is happening. Their terrier nature shows in their confidence and independence, and many owners describe them as charming little comedians who keep the household entertained with their antics. They often enjoy being the center of attention and will happily show off tricks or games they have learned.

In a family setting, the Wire Fox Terrier can be an affectionate and devoted companion. They usually form strong bonds with their people and like to be involved in daily activities. Many enjoy cuddles on the sofa after a busy day, although they are less of a “lap dog” and more of a busy, active friend. With children, they can be playful and fun, especially with older kids who understand how to treat a dog respectfully. However, because they are energetic and may respond poorly to rough handling, supervision around younger children is important. Teaching children how to approach, touch, and play calmly with the dog helps to build a positive relationship.

Other pets can be more complicated. The Wire Fox Terrier was bred to chase and sometimes kill small animals, so a strong prey drive is part of their heritage. Many will instinctively chase cats, rabbits, or other small pets if given the chance. Early socialization, good management, and careful introductions can sometimes help them live peacefully with a confident cat, especially if they are raised together, but it is not guaranteed. Small rodents and birds should always be kept safely out of reach. With other dogs, Wire Fox Terriers can be sociable but also assertive. Some individuals are perfectly friendly and enjoy canine company, while others may be quicker to challenge or posture, particularly with dogs of the same sex. Controlled socialization from puppyhood and clear guidance from the owner can help reduce tension and encourage polite behavior.

A recurring theme with this breed is their strong personality. They are usually clever and quick to learn, but they also have their own opinions. If they see no point in a command, they may simply ignore it. This independent streak can lead to common challenges such as:

- Reactivity to moving objects like bicycles or joggers  
- Excessive barking if they are bored or under stimulated  
- Digging in the garden, especially if they sense small animals underground  

Prospective owners should be prepared for a dog that is active both physically and mentally. A bored Wire Fox Terrier will find ways to entertain itself, which might not always align with your idea of a quiet life. When given enough outlets for their energy and a clear set of household rules, however, they are delightful characters. Their sense of humor, loyalty, and lively spirit often make them unforgettable once you have shared your home with one.  


## Training & Exercise

Training a Wire Fox Terrier can be both rewarding and challenging. This is a smart breed that learns quickly and enjoys interacting with people, but it also has a strong will and a sharp independent streak. The best approach combines patience, consistency, and a lot of positive reinforcement. Praise, treats, and play work far better than harsh corrections. If a Wire Fox Terrier feels pressured or unfairly punished, it will often become more stubborn or simply switch off.

Early puppy training makes a big difference. Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, and recall should start as soon as the puppy settles into the home. Short, fun sessions are usually more effective than long, repetitive drills. Variety is helpful, since these dogs can get bored easily. Incorporating little games, such as “find the treat” or basic trick training, keeps their sharp mind engaged and makes them view training as an enjoyable activity instead of a chore.

Recall training deserves special attention. Because most Wire Fox Terriers have a strong drive to chase, many will ignore a recall if they are in hot pursuit of a squirrel or bird. It is wise to build recall gradually, using high value rewards, and to practice in safe, enclosed areas before attempting off lead freedom in open spaces. Many owners choose to use long training lines outdoors or keep their dog on lead in areas with a lot of wildlife or traffic, just to be safe.

Exercise needs are significant for a dog of this size. A quick walk around the block is rarely enough. Most adult Wire Fox Terriers need at least one to two hours of activity spread throughout the day, which can include:

- Brisk walks or hikes  
- Off lead running in secure areas  
- Interactive games like fetch or tug  
- Scent games and puzzle toys indoors  

Mental exercise is just as important as physical activity. Activities such as obedience, rally, agility, or nose work suit the breed very well. Many Wire Fox Terriers excel in these dog sports because they enjoy having a “job” to do and love the attention and reward that come with success. Agility in particular taps into their natural quickness and athleticism. Even if you do not plan to compete, simple backyard obstacle courses or homemade challenges can be a great way to channel energy.

Household manners need clear boundaries from the beginning. Jumping up on guests, grabbing at clothing during play, and barking at every sound outside can become habits if not gently corrected. Consistent rules, plenty of chew toys, and teaching calm behaviors such as “go to your bed” can help your Wire Fox Terrier learn how to settle. Crate training is often very helpful, giving the dog a safe place to rest and helping with house training and management.

With the right training methods and enough exercise, the Wire Fox Terrier’s energy and intelligence become a joy rather than a challenge. Many owners find that living with this breed keeps them active, engaged, and laughing on a daily basis.  


## Health

The Wire Fox Terrier is generally a robust and long-lived breed, but like all purebred dogs it can be prone to certain health issues. Responsible breeders screen their breeding dogs and aim to reduce the risk of inherited conditions. As a potential owner, it is useful to know what can occur so you can ask the right questions and provide good care throughout your dog’s life.

One area of concern in the breed is certain neurological and orthopedic issues. Conditions such as Legg Calvé Perthes disease, which affects the hip joint, and patellar luxation, where the kneecap slips out of place, can sometimes appear. These issues may lead to lameness, discomfort, or changes in movement, especially in young or growing dogs. Regular veterinary checks and attention to any limping or reluctance to exercise are important, as early treatment can improve outcomes.

Eye health is another focus. Some Wire Fox Terriers may be predisposed to inherited eye diseases, which can affect vision. Responsible breeders often use eye examinations by veterinary ophthalmologists to screen for problems. Skin and coat health also deserve consideration. The harsh coat itself is usually protective, but allergies or sensitivities to certain foods or environmental factors can occur, leading to itching or ear problems. Good grooming and regular checks help you spot any changes quickly.

Like many active terrier breeds, Wire Fox Terriers can occasionally develop injuries from their own enthusiasm. Sprains, muscle strains, or small cuts can happen if the dog charges through rough terrain or jumps from heights. While they tend to be tough and will often try to carry on as if nothing is wrong, owners should monitor for any signs of pain, stiffness, or change in behavior after vigorous play.

Epilepsy has been reported in the breed, so any episodes of seizures must be taken seriously and investigated by a veterinarian. Dental care is also essential, as smaller and medium sized dogs can build up tartar quickly if their teeth are not brushed regularly.

A typical lifespan for a well cared for Wire Fox Terrier is often around 12 to 15 years, and some may live even longer. To support a long and healthy life, consider the following:

- Choose a breeder who uses appropriate health tests and can show health records  
- Feed a balanced diet suited to the dog’s age, size, and activity level  
- Maintain a healthy weight, as excess body fat puts strain on joints and organs  
- Keep up with regular vaccinations, parasite prevention, and dental care  
- Schedule annual health checks, and more frequent checkups as the dog gets older  

As your Wire Fox Terrier ages, you may notice slowing down, stiffness, or reduced hearing and vision. Adjusting exercise, providing comfortable bedding, and possibly adding joint supplements on your vet’s advice can help keep a senior dog comfortable. With attentive care and early intervention when problems appear, many Wire Fox Terriers remain bright, lively companions well into old age.  


## History & Origins

The Wire Fox Terrier has a long and colorful history that is closely tied to traditional fox hunting in Britain. The breed developed from early British terriers that were kept on farms and estates to control vermin and assist during hunts. These small, fearless dogs would follow the hounds and horses, and when a fox went to ground in a den or burrow, the terrier’s job was to flush it back out so the hunt could continue. For this work, the dogs needed to be brave, determined, and agile, with a body shape that allowed them to squeeze into narrow earths.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, terriers used for fox hunting were refined into a more recognizable type. Both smooth and wire coated varieties existed, but eventually they came to be recognized as separate breeds. The Wire Fox Terrier likely had input from various rough coated terriers from different regions, selected specifically for a harsh, weather-resistant coat and suitable temperament. White coats with dark markings were preferred, as it helped hunters distinguish the dog from the quarry in the heat of the chase.

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Wire Fox Terrier gained popularity not only as a working dog but also as a show and companion dog. The breed became a favorite in the show ring and enjoyed considerable success, particularly in Britain and later in the United States. Their stylish appearance, confident carriage, and charismatic personality made them stand out. Over time, a clear breed standard was developed, guiding breeders toward the distinctive look and character that we associate with the Wire Fox Terrier today.

Outside of hunting, these terriers also gained visibility in popular culture. They appeared in paintings, advertisements, and even films, often portrayed as clever, loyal, and slightly mischievous household pets. This public image helped cement their place as much-loved companions, even as traditional fox hunting became less central in many regions.

Today, while a few Wire Fox Terriers may still be used for traditional terrier work or vermin control on farms, most live as family pets and performance dogs. They participate in activities like agility, obedience, rally, and various dog sports where their energy and enthusiasm shine. Breed clubs and enthusiasts around the world work to preserve the Wire Fox Terrier’s distinctive qualities, from its wiry coat and square outline to its lively, brave temperament. The modern Wire Fox Terrier may spend more time on the sofa or in the show ring than underground in fox dens, but the ancestry of a hardworking, determined hunting terrier remains visible in every bright-eyed, eager movement.  


## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Wire Fox Terrier is a rewarding experience, but it also requires a realistic understanding of what the breed needs. This is not a dog for someone looking for a very calm or low maintenance companion. Instead, the Wire Fox Terrier suits people or families who enjoy an active lifestyle, regular outdoor walks, and time spent training and playing with their dog.

Daily life with a Wire Fox Terrier usually includes several good walks and structured play sessions. Many owners find that mornings start with a brisk walk or a game in the garden to take the edge off the dog’s energy. Throughout the day, puzzle toys, short training sessions, and interactive play help keep the dog mentally satisfied. Leaving a Wire Fox Terrier alone for long periods without stimulation can lead to barking, digging, or other unwanted behaviors. They are generally happiest when they can be involved in family life and have regular contact with their people.

New owners should also plan for regular grooming. Even if you decide to keep the coat stripped by a professional groomer, you will need to budget both time and money for this. Depending on the style you prefer and how fast your dog’s hair grows, hand stripping may be needed every 6 to 12 weeks. Between grooming appointments, brushing, cleaning the beard, and checking for tangles on the legs are part of the routine. Nail trimming every few weeks, ear cleaning as needed, and consistent dental care should be expected.

Financially, Wire Fox Terriers sit in a similar range to many other small to medium purebred dogs. Initial costs include the purchase price of the puppy, vaccinations, microchipping, basic equipment, and possibly puppy classes. Ongoing annual expenses often cover quality food, routine vet visits, parasite prevention, grooming, insurance, and replacement of toys and equipment. Terriers are often hard on toys, especially those meant for gentle play, so investing in sturdy chew toys and durable leads and collars is wise.

Useful equipment for living with a Wire Fox Terrier can include:

- A secure harness and strong, comfortable lead for walks  
- A crate or indoor pen to provide a safe resting and management space  
- Puzzle feeders and treat dispensing toys for mental stimulation  
- Robust chew toys to satisfy their natural chewing instincts  
- Grooming tools such as a slicker brush, comb, and stripping knife if you plan to maintain the coat yourself  

A securely fenced garden is highly recommended. The breed’s tendency to chase and explore can lead them to slip through gaps or dig under weak fences. Ensuring solid boundaries helps prevent escapes and accidents. Indoors, baby gates can be useful to limit access to certain areas, especially during puppyhood while you are teaching household rules.

Emotionally, living with a Wire Fox Terrier means accepting a dog with a strong personality. They may test boundaries, try to get their own way, or argue about rules, particularly during adolescence. Consistent, kind leadership and a sense of humor go a long way. Many owners say that once you understand the terrier mindset and provide the structure and outlets they need, the bond becomes very special. The breed’s loyalty, bravery, and infectious enthusiasm for life make them memorable companions.

For the right owner, a Wire Fox Terrier brings energy, joy, and character into the home. If you enjoy training, staying active, and sharing your life with a dog that is never dull, this breed can be a wonderful match. If, however, you prefer a couch potato or have very little time for exercise and interaction, another, more laid-back breed may suit you better. Taking an honest look at your lifestyle before choosing a Wire Fox Terrier will help ensure many happy years together.

Wire Fox Terrier

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

American Kennel Club

Association Française du Fox-Terrier Club (France)

Wire Fox Terriers are small, sturdy, energetic hunting terriers with a bold, lively nature and strong prey drive. They have a low-shedding wiry coat needing regular stripping, are intelligent but independent, need consistent training, daily exercise, mental stimulation, and thorough grooming.

Francesca Cassin

## Quick Facts

The Keeshond is the same breed variety as the Wolfspitz in the FCI standard and the largest of the German Spitz varieties. Its country of origin is Germany, but the name and cultural history are strongly associated with the Netherlands.

- **Breed type:** medium-sized watchdog and companion dog in FCI Group 5
- **Height at the withers:** 49 cm, with a permitted variation of 6 cm in either direction
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no set weight in kilograms; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** grey-shaded double coat with abundant undercoat, a mane-like ruff and distinct dark facial markings
- **Typical traits according to the breed standard:** alert, lively, trainable, devoted to its owner and often reserved with strangers
- **Hunting drive:** the standard describes an absence of hunting instinct, but each dog's recall and interest in wildlife still need to be trained and assessed
- **Important before buying:** ask for clear health records, especially which PHPT test was used, which laboratory performed it and what the result was

The Keeshond is best suited to someone who accepts regular coat care and wants to train both calm behaviour and everyday skills. A friendly breed description does not make every individual quiet, comfortable alone or safe with every child and animal.

## Appearance & Coat

The Keeshond is a squarely built spitz with a wedge-shaped head, small upright ears and a plumed tail carried curled over the back. The ratio of height at the withers to body length should be approximately one to one, creating the compact outline.

The grey-shaded colour consists of silver-grey hair with black tips. The muzzle and ears are dark, while the mane, shoulders and breeches are lighter. A defining feature is the so-called spectacles: dark lines and shading running from the outer corner of the eye towards the ear.

The double coat has long, straight and firm guard hairs over a short, thick, cotton-like undercoat. The hair is shorter on the head, ears, fronts of the legs and paws. The breed standard requires an abundant coat but also says that it must not appear to have been shaped by trimming.

Grooming must reach all the way to the skin. Work in small sections with a brush and comb, especially behind the ears, in the armpits, around the breeches and beneath the harness. A comb that moves through freely is a better check than a rigid weekly timetable. More frequent sessions are needed during heavy shedding. Accustom the puppy early to coat care and other handling.

The coat should not be clipped to create a different outline. If medical treatment requires shaving, follow veterinary advice. Check the skin while combing; sores, odour or a sudden coat change are reasons to contact a vet.

The dense coat requires extra planning in warm weather. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, provide water and shade, and shorten activity before the dog becomes distressed. Heavy panting, lethargy, drooling or weakness can be signs of overheating and should be taken seriously.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Keeshond as alert, lively, highly devoted to its owner and easy to train, with natural reserve towards strangers and little hunting drive. This is a description of the desired breed temperament, not a promise of how every individual will react.

The breed's readiness to notice activity around the home may show as barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or when people pass. In a building with poor sound insulation, noise is therefore a more important question than floor area. Teach the dog early to leave the door and settle after a few barks, and give it a clear place where it can relax without monitoring everything.

A somewhat reserved Keeshond should be able to investigate a new situation and recover without being pushed into contact. Let the puppy encounter people, environments and sounds in manageable amounts and reward voluntary curiosity. Fear or aggression should not be dismissed as typical of the breed.

Before buying a puppy, meet the dam and preferably other adult relatives. Watch how they respond to visitors, how quickly they settle and how they accept handling. Ask whether parents or relatives have completed BPH or MH behavioural assessments and read the actual results when available. This is more informative than labels such as “social” or “family-friendly”.

## Training & Exercise

The Keeshond needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no authoritative number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, weather and the ability to settle should determine duration and intensity.

A good daily routine combines walks with scent work, short training sessions and problem-solving. The breed may enjoy everyday obedience, rally obedience, nose work or trick training, for example. Variety is better than simply increasing the pace. An adolescent dog that never practises settling can become more aroused, not more content.

Use reward-based training and divide skills into small steps. Four areas are particularly useful:

1. **Alerting and quiet:** teach the dog to leave the door and settle after acknowledging a sound.
2. **Recall:** build it on lead or a long line with gradually harder distractions. Low hunting drive in the standard does not guarantee reliable off-lead control.
3. **Grooming cooperation:** reward short sessions with the comb, paw checks and examination before the coat becomes difficult to manage.
4. **Time alone:** begin with very brief separations when the dog feels secure and increase according to that individual's response.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Prioritise short periods of movement, sleep, exposure to everyday environments and cooperative play, increasing the load gradually. In hot weather, calm walks during cooler parts of the day are safer than following a fixed exercise programme.

## Health

The main breed-specific health issue to understand in the Keeshond is primary hyperparathyroidism, PHPT, but both its inheritance and the test used must be described correctly. PHPT affects calcium metabolism when one or more parathyroid glands begin to function independently and excess parathyroid hormone leads to raised blood calcium.

A 2025 study found that all 18 Keeshonden with a well-supported PHPT diagnosis were heterozygous for a variant in the SIRT6 gene. The researchers considered the variant likely to be disease-causing and confirmed an autosomal dominant pattern of inheritance. It should therefore not be managed like a recessive trait where two “carriers” simply need to avoid being mated together.

Not all PHPT tests analyse the same genetic change. The newer test from the British research group is based on the SIRT6 variant. Cornell University also offers a different test that looks for a 194-base-pair inserted DNA sequence on chromosome 20. Cornell states that its assay is analytically validated but could not be clinically validated because diagnosed cases were unavailable. The result should therefore be interpreted with caution. A statement that a dog is “PHPT tested” is too vague. Ask to see the laboratory report showing the dog's identity, sample date, laboratory, the variant or insertion analysed, and the result itself.

The current Swedish Kennel Club breed page also mentions hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and skin problems, but describes them as not particularly common. In the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, the Keeshond is not marked as a breed for which official HD status is a specific prerequisite for registering offspring. Still ask which examinations have been completed for the parents and close relatives. Foreign recommendations, such as British advice on hips, elbows, eyes and PHPT, must not be presented as Swedish registration requirements.

Do not choose a puppy on the basis of one line in a DNA report. Ask about the parents' age, general health, skin, movement and diseases among close relatives. Check that each document belongs to the correct dog rather than accepting phrases such as “health tested” or “healthy line”.

## History & Origins

The Keeshond has Germany as its official country of origin and belongs to the German Spitz; Wolfspitz and Keeshond are two names for the same FCI variety. This explains why a breed with a strong Dutch identity is still listed as German in the modern breed standard.

In the Netherlands, these grey spitz dogs were used as alert watchdogs on barges. During the eighteenth century, the type became associated with the Dutch Patriot movement. One of its leaders, Cornelius “Kees” de Gyselaer, owned such a dog, and the link to “Kees's dog” is commonly given as the background to the name Keeshond.

The breed was introduced in Britain as the “Dutch Barge Dog” in the early twentieth century, and a British breed club was formed in 1925. The first import to Sweden came from England in the 1950s. The Dutch history should not be confused with the official FCI country of origin.

## Living with the Breed

The Keeshond can live successfully in many homes when the family meets its needs for company, coat care, activity and training around barking and settling. A garden is not a shortcut to a contented dog, and a flat is not an automatic barrier. The daily routine and how much the dog's alert barking affects neighbours are what matter.

With children, the same safety rules apply as for other dogs: an adult should be present with young children, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the adults retain primary responsibility. Teach children not to climb on the dog, disturb it while eating or sleeping, or pull its abundant coat. Assess the individual dog's confidence and recovery rather than choosing the breed solely because it is labelled a family dog.

Low hunting drive does not mean that every Keeshond will immediately live safely with a cat or small animal. Find out about the dog's previous experience and response to movement. During introductions, the cat should have high, separate escape routes, the dog should remain under control, and meetings should be short, calm and gradual. The same principle applies to new canine relationships: arrange controlled meetings and read the individuals' signals.

The Keeshond's social nature makes alone-time training important, but there is no set duration that every individual can handle comfortably. Some dogs may eventually remain calm for a couple of hours while others react after only minutes. Train gradually and consider using a camera to see whether the dog settles or shows stress by pacing, panting, barking or trying to escape. Arrange daytime care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage comfortably. The Swedish rule that an adult dog should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day concerns opportunities to relieve itself; it is not a target for time left alone.

Before buying, ask the breeder to show you:

- originals or verifiable copies of the PHPT report and other completed health examinations
- how the dam and other adult dogs respond to visitors, handling and rest
- how the coat is combed down to the skin and which tools are needed
- how the puppies have been introduced to sounds, surfaces, people, brief handling and settling
- registration details and any BPH, MH or joint results for parents and close relatives

For a first-time owner, a Keeshond can be a reasonable choice if there is time for reward-based training and extensive coat care. Anyone who needs a very quiet dog, long periods alone or a hair-free home should think particularly carefully.

Keeshond

The Keeshond is a medium, sturdy spitz with a thick wolf‑grey double coat and trademark eye “spectacles.” A devoted family companion, it is affectionate, alert, and vocal but rarely aggressive. Intelligent and lively, it trains well with gentle methods and needs regular brushing and daily interaction.

Hanne Elisabeth Aa Breivik

German Pinscher

Deutscher Pinscher-Schnauzer-Klub 1895 e.V. (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Royal Canin (UK)

Medium, athletic German farm dog with sleek low‑maintenance coat in black‑and‑tan or red. Intelligent, alert, loyal and protective yet reserved with strangers. Needs plenty of exercise, mental work, firm positive training and close family involvement; generally robust and long‑lived.

Rattenjäger

## Quick Facts

- Tiny companion breed from the Czech Republic, traditionally used as a nimble ratter in castles and city homes  
- Very small and lightweight, yet surprisingly athletic and confident in attitude  
- Strong bond with their people, often choosing one favorite person while still loving the whole family  
- Short, easy care coat, but they feel the cold and usually need a sweater or coat in cooler weather  
- Alert watchdog with a big voice for such a small body, making them excellent little house guardians  

## Appearance & Coat

The Prague Ratter is one of the smallest dog breeds in the world, but their presence feels much larger than their size. Most adults stand around 20 to 23 centimeters at the shoulder and weigh between 1.5 and 3.5 kilograms. They are compact, well balanced and lightly built, with a fine bone structure that still feels surprisingly sturdy in the hand. Their body is slightly longer than tall, with a graceful neck and an elegant, almost toy like silhouette.

The head is small and refined, with a gently rounded skull and a narrow muzzle that tapers without appearing snippy. Dark, expressive eyes give the Prague Ratter a lively and alert expression that many owners describe as nearly human. Ears are usually set high and carried erect, which adds to their inquisitive look. The tail may be natural or docked depending on local regulations, but in motion it often curves slightly and shows how much they enjoy life.

The coat of the Prague Ratter is most commonly short, smooth and tight to the body, with a glossy shine when in good condition. There is also a longer coated variety, sometimes with light feathering on ears, legs and tail, although the short coat is still much more widespread. Classic coloring for the breed is black and tan, with rich tan markings above the eyes, on the cheeks, chest, legs and under the tail. However, other colors exist, such as brown and tan, blue and tan, red, yellow and occasionally merle in some lines where it is allowed.

Caring for the coat is generally straightforward, which is one reason the Prague Ratter appeals to many modern owners. A weekly brush with a soft bristle brush or grooming glove is usually enough to remove loose hairs and keep the coat shiny. During seasonal shedding periods, brushing two or three times a week can help reduce hair around the house. Because the coat is so short, skin health is particularly important. Use mild dog shampoo, avoid over bathing, and check regularly for dry patches or irritation.

Their small size means they feel temperature changes quite strongly. In cool or wet weather, most Prague Ratters appreciate a light coat or sweater, especially on windy days. In winter in colder climates, a warm jacket and even small dog boots can be useful for longer walks, as salt and ice may irritate their delicate paws. Regular nail trimming, ear cleaning and dental care are also essential, since many toy breeds are prone to dental tartar and gum issues. With a simple but consistent grooming routine, a Prague Ratter will stay neat and comfortable with very little fuss.

## Temperament & Personality

The Prague Ratter is often described as a big dog in a tiny body. They are confident, spirited and curious, and they love to be involved in everything their family does. In daily life, you can expect a Prague Ratter to follow you from room to room, jump onto the sofa to sit beside you, and quickly learn the sounds of your routine. They thrive on human company and usually do not enjoy being left alone for long periods.

With their families, Prague Ratters tend to be very affectionate and loyal. Many form a particularly close bond with one person, often the main caregiver, while still being friendly and cuddly with other family members. They like to burrow under blankets, curl up on laps, and sleep close to their people at night. For some owners this closeness is the best part of living with the breed, but it also means that these dogs can become quite dependent and may develop separation anxiety if not trained to be comfortable alone.

Around children, the Prague Ratter can be a loving and playful companion, but their tiny size requires careful supervision. Well raised children who understand how to be gentle can enjoy teaching tricks, playing short games of fetch or simply cuddling on the sofa. However, rough handling, squeezing or accidental dropping can seriously injure such a small dog. Families with very young or boisterous children must think honestly about whether everyone can respect the physical limits of the breed.

With other dogs, Prague Ratters are often confident and sometimes a little too bold. They may challenge much larger dogs without realizing how small they really are. Early socialization in safe environments is important, so they learn to read other dogs correctly and to interact politely. With other small dogs they usually get along well, especially if introduced gradually. Their original role as a ratter means that many keep a strong prey drive, so caution is needed with pet rodents, small birds or free roaming rabbits. Some can live with cats, especially if raised together from puppyhood, but many will still chase if the cat runs.

One notable personality trait of the Prague Ratter is their alertness. They notice every sound in the hallway, footsteps outside the door, and cars arriving at the house. This makes them excellent little watchdogs, but it can also lead to nuisance barking if not managed. Teaching a reliable “quiet” cue and rewarding calm behavior works better than scolding. Because they are intelligent and eager to please, Prague Ratters respond well to gentle, reward based training that makes them think and keeps them included.

Potential challenges include:

- Tendency to bark at noises or strangers  
- Strong attachment that can turn into separation anxiety  
- Prey drive towards small animals  
- Overconfidence with larger dogs

For owners who can provide structure, patience and plenty of closeness, the Prague Ratter is a deeply loving companion with a lively, entertaining personality that fills the home with energy.

## Training & Exercise

Despite their tiny body, the Prague Ratter is an active and quick thinking dog that truly enjoys training. They are usually food motivated, curious and eager to be part of whatever their person is doing. This combination means that, with the right approach, training can be both effective and great fun for everyone.

The best training methods for a Prague Ratter are positive and encouraging. They respond very well to:

- Small, tasty treats as rewards  
- Verbal praise delivered in a warm, happy tone  
- Short, varied sessions that keep boredom away  
- Games that let them use both body and brain  

Harsh corrections, shouting or physical punishment can damage their trust and may make them anxious or defensive. Given their sensitive nature, it is much more successful to guide them gently and reward what you like, rather than focusing heavily on what you do not want.

Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, recall and walking nicely on a leash should start early. Because of their size, some owners fall into the trap of carrying them everywhere and allowing pushy behaviors that would never be accepted in a larger dog. It is important to remember that a Prague Ratter is still a dog, not a toy, and needs the same clear boundaries and consistent rules as any other breed. Teaching them to walk on their own four paws, wait calmly at doors, and greet people politely helps prevent “small dog syndrome” and makes daily life easier.

Exercise needs are moderate but not negligible. A Prague Ratter does not require long mountain hikes, but they do enjoy several short walks every day, along with time to sniff, explore and play. Many adults are happy with around 45 to 60 minutes of activity spread throughout the day, adapted to their age and health. This might include:

- Two or three brisk walks of 10 to 20 minutes each  
- Play sessions at home such as fetch or tug with safe, lightweight toys  
- Short indoor training games on rainy or very cold days  

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Because of their history as ratters, many Prague Ratters enjoy nose work games, searching for treats hidden in folded towels or simple puzzle toys. Some take to beginner level agility, trick training or mini obedience competitions. These activities help to channel their natural alertness and intelligence, and they also strengthen the bond between dog and owner.

Owners should keep in mind that the Prague Ratter is small and can tire more quickly than a larger, athletic breed, especially on rough terrain or in extreme temperatures. Watch for signs of fatigue, such as lagging behind, panting heavily or refusing to continue. In hot weather, avoid walking in the full midday sun and offer water frequently. In cold weather, keep walks shorter and use dog clothing to protect their body and paws.

Early socialization is a key part of training. Expose your Prague Ratter puppy to different people, gentle dogs, vehicles, sounds and environments in a positive, controlled way. Reward calm curiosity and allow them to retreat if something worries them, rather than forcing contact. A well socialized Prague Ratter is far less likely to develop fearfulness or sharpness in adulthood.

When training and exercise are tailored to their size and temperament, Prague Ratters become delightful, manageable companions who enjoy learning, exploring and being by your side in everyday life.

## Health

Although usually a robust and lively little dog, the Prague Ratter does have some health issues that owners and breeders should be aware of. Responsible breeding, routine veterinary care and careful daily management all play an important role in keeping this breed healthy over the long term.

Common health concerns in Prague Ratters can include:

- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap slips out of place, causing lameness or hopping  
- Dental problems such as tartar build up, gum disease and retained baby teeth, which are common in many toy breeds  
- Fragile bones in very small individuals, leading to a risk of fractures from jumping or accidental falls  
- Heart issues in some lines, particularly valve diseases that may appear with age  
- Eye conditions such as cataracts or dry eye in certain bloodlines  

Because of these potential problems, many breed clubs and responsible breeders recommend specific health tests. These may include veterinary examination of the knees to check for patellar luxation, eye examinations by a specialist, and in some cases heart evaluations. Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders what health checks have been carried out on the parents, and requesting to see the relevant documentation.

Lifespan for a well cared for Prague Ratter is often between 12 and 15 years, and many remain active and playful well into their senior years. To support a long and healthy life, owners should focus on several key areas.

Firstly, weight management is essential. Even a small amount of extra weight is significant on such a tiny frame and can increase the strain on joints, heart and other organs. Feed a high quality, age appropriate diet and measure portions carefully. Treats should make up only a small part of daily calorie intake. It is easy to spoil such a small, cute dog with snacks, but their body will thank you for moderation.

Secondly, dental care deserves special attention. Daily or at least frequent tooth brushing with dog safe toothpaste helps to prevent plaque and tartar buildup. Regular dental check ups with the vet allow early intervention if problems arise. Many Prague Ratters accept tooth brushing readily if introduced gradually with patience and rewards.

Thirdly, owners should protect their dog from accidents and injuries. Avoid allowing a Prague Ratter to jump from high furniture or run up and down steep stairs repeatedly. Train them to use ramps or small steps to reach sofas or beds if they are allowed on furniture. When out on walks, use a lightweight harness instead of a collar for leash attachment, to avoid pressure on the delicate neck and trachea.

Routine preventive care such as vaccinations, parasite control, and annual health checks are also important. Senior Prague Ratters may benefit from more frequent veterinary visits to monitor heart function, joints, dental health and general condition. Early detection of changes, such as weight loss, coughing, stiffness or increased thirst, can greatly improve the success of treatment.

Breeders who care about the future of the Prague Ratter focus not only on appearance but also on solid health, sound temperament and appropriate size. As a buyer or owner, supporting these efforts by choosing responsible breeders and following veterinary advice will help to keep this charming little breed healthy and happy for generations to come.

## History & Origins

The Prague Ratter, known in its homeland as Pražský krysařík, has a history that stretches back many centuries in the Czech lands and neighboring regions. While the exact origins are not fully documented, it is widely believed that small, agile terrier type dogs were kept in royal courts, castles and city houses to control rats and other vermin. Their compact size, quick reflexes and keen hunting instinct made them extremely effective at this job.

Historical records and paintings from Central Europe show tiny black and tan dogs at the side of nobility and in the bustling streets of medieval towns. These early Prague Ratters were valued not only as working ratters but also as charming companions, often living close to their owners and sharing their daily life. Their presence in royal courts helped spread their reputation abroad as well, and small dogs similar to the Prague Ratter appeared in other European countries.

Over time, changes in living conditions, urban development and the introduction of other fashionable toy breeds led to a decline in the popularity of the Prague Ratter. For a period, the breed seemed at risk of disappearing, kept mainly by a small number of enthusiasts in rural areas and by families who valued them as traditional rat catchers and house companions.

In the late 20th century, interest in native breeds and cultural heritage in the Czech Republic led to renewed efforts to preserve and standardize the Prague Ratter. Dedicated breeders began to select carefully for type, temperament and health, and a modern breed standard was created. This work helped the Prague Ratter move from a nearly forgotten local dog to an internationally recognized companion breed with growing popularity in various European countries and beyond.

Today, the Prague Ratter is no longer relied on as a working ratter in most homes, although many still show a strong instinct to chase mice and small pests if they get the chance. Instead, the breed is primarily a beloved companion, valued for its affectionate nature, intelligence and compact size that fits well into modern city living. In some countries, Prague Ratters can also be seen in dog sports such as agility, obedience or trick competitions, where their lively character and quick learning stand out.

Breed clubs in the Czech Republic, France, Scandinavia and other regions now work together to maintain and promote the Prague Ratter. The focus is on preserving its historic charm and usefulness as a small, alert and loving family dog, while ensuring solid health and stable temperament. For people who appreciate a breed with deep local roots and a story that connects royal courts, city alleys and modern apartments, the Prague Ratter carries a rich and fascinating heritage in a very tiny body.

## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Prague Ratter is often described as having a tiny shadow with a huge personality. This breed thrives on being close to their people and is best suited to owners who enjoy a dog that wants to be involved in daily routines rather than lying quietly in a corner. If you like a dog that sits on your lap while you work, curls up under the blanket in the evening and greets you joyfully after even short absences, the Prague Ratter can be a wonderful match.

Prospective owners should be prepared for a relatively high level of emotional commitment. These dogs form strong attachments and can be sensitive to changes in routine, raised voices or family tension. They do best in homes where they are treated as a true family member and where someone is usually present for much of the day. A Prague Ratter left alone regularly for long hours may develop barking, destructive behavior or anxiety.

From a practical point of view, their small size is both an advantage and a responsibility. On one hand, they fit easily into small apartments, and many landlords who accept dogs are more open to such a tiny breed. Daily exercise is relatively easy to provide, since shorter walks and indoor play can already meet a large part of their needs. On the other hand, owners must always be aware of physical risks, such as being stepped on, caught in a door, or injured by larger animals. Simple habits like checking where the dog is before moving a chair or closing a door become second nature.

Financially, annual costs for a Prague Ratter are often lower than for large dogs, particularly when it comes to food and some medications that depend on weight. However, there are still important expenses to consider:

- Purchase price from a responsible breeder  
- Vaccinations, routine veterinary checks and parasite control  
- Sterilization or castration if not used for breeding  
- Pet insurance or a savings fund for unexpected veterinary bills  
- Quality food, treats and dental care products  
- Equipment such as harnesses, collars, leashes, coats and bedding  

Because of the potential for dental and orthopedic issues, choosing a good pet insurance policy or setting aside money regularly for veterinary care is wise. Over the course of their life, preventive care, dental work and occasional testing can add up, even for a small dog.

Useful equipment for living with a Prague Ratter includes a comfortable, well fitting harness that does not rub under the arms; a lightweight leash; and a selection of soft, appropriately sized toys. Many owners find that puzzle feeders and treat balls help keep their dog mentally busy, especially on days when outdoor activity is limited. Several soft beds or blankets around the home allow the dog to rest near different family members. Warm coats and sweaters for winter, along with a rain jacket for wet weather, are more than a fashion choice for this breed, as they genuinely support their comfort and health.

Training should continue throughout the dog’s life, not just during puppyhood. Short daily sessions, even of only five minutes, keep their mind engaged and reinforce good manners. Basic house rules such as where the dog is allowed to go, how they greet visitors, and how they behave at mealtimes should be clear and consistent. Many behavior issues in small dogs arise simply because boundaries were never clearly set.

For families who understand toy breed needs and are willing to adapt their home and habits slightly, the Prague Ratter offers an enormous amount of joy in a very small package. Their combination of devotion, playfulness and intelligence makes them a rewarding companion for people across different ages, from active singles to older adults who want a dog that can participate fully in daily life without demanding extreme exercise. With care, patience and love, living with a Prague Ratter can feel like sharing your world with a brave and loyal little friend who never stops trying to be by your side.

Prague Ratter

Verein für Deutsche Spitze

Dansk Kennel Klub

Svenska Kennelklubben

British Veterinary Association

Club Français des Rats de Prague

The Prague Ratter is a tiny Czech companion once used for ratting, lively and athletic despite its size. It has a short, low‑maintenance coat but feels the cold. Very affectionate and people‑oriented, it’s an alert little watchdog that bonds closely with its family.

Mili Mali

## Quick Facts

The Coton de Tulear is a small, recognised companion breed from Madagascar. It is best suited to someone who wants a sociable, active dog at the heart of family life and is also prepared for substantial coat care. Its small size does not make ownership effortless: the coat needs daily attention, and the dog still needs exercise, training and a gradual introduction to being left alone.

- **Breed type:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Origin:** Madagascar, with France responsible for the breed standard
- **Height at the withers:** 26–28 cm for males and 23–25 cm for females
- **Weight:** 4–6 kg for males and 3.5–5 kg for females
- **Coat:** long, dense, soft and cotton-like, with white as the ground colour
- **Breed ideal:** cheerful, steady, sociable and willing to cooperate
- **Biggest daily commitment:** grooming the coat thoroughly every day

A Coton de Tulear can be a good choice for a first-time owner, but only if there is already time in the daily routine for grooming, training and company. Those practical demands matter more than the assumption that a small companion dog will automatically be easy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Coton de Tulear's defining feature is its soft, profuse coat with a cotton-like texture. It must not be harsh or rough and may be slightly wavy. The body is somewhat longer than it is tall, while dark, rounded eyes help to create the breed's lively expression.

White is the ground colour. Slight traces of light grey or red roan are permitted on the ears. Similar shading may be tolerated elsewhere if the overall impression remains white, although it is not sought after in the breed standard. A puppy's coloured markings may change as the coat develops, but the standard provides neither a timetable nor a guarantee for the colour of an individual adult dog.

A long coat needs brushing and combing every day. Work through the full depth of the coat from the skin outwards; quickly brushing the surface can leave mats underneath. The Swedish Kennel Club describes bathing every two to four weeks as typical, although the actual need depends on coat length, weather and how dirty the dog becomes. Calm grooming practice should begin in puppyhood so that the dog learns to stand and be handled without distress.

A companion dog that will not be shown in a full show coat may be kept in a shorter trim to make everyday care more manageable. A shorter style does not remove the need for regular combing and skin checks, but it can reduce the workload. Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat care before you buy, and consider how you will manage it through wet and muddy weather as well as on dry days.

The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic. The amount of visible hair a dog leaves behind does not reveal how much allergen it spreads, and there can be considerable variation between individual dogs. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not treat the breed name or the fact that a dog appears to shed very little as a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Coton de Tulear as cheerful, steady and highly sociable with people and other dogs. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes it as active and cooperative, and keen to join its owner in different activities. This is the breed ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy shows why that distinction matters. Older survey responses mentioned barking, aggression towards other dogs and fear of gunfire, but later material could not establish clearly how common these behaviours were. The evidence was limited by a low response rate and a small number of behaviour assessments. It would therefore be misleading to promise that the breed is invariably quiet, fearless or straightforward.

Instead, ask how the puppy's parents respond to unfamiliar people, encounters with other dogs, unexpected sounds and short periods without their owner. If possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary home setting. The parents' behaviour, the puppy's early experiences and your continuing training tell you more about that particular dog than labels such as “perfect family dog”.

## Training & Exercise

A Coton de Tulear needs daily walks, opportunities to move freely in safe places and activities that engage its mind. There is no official daily time target that suits every dog. Adjust duration and pace to the individual's age, health, fitness and recovery instead.

The breed may enjoy everyday obedience, scent work, tracking, rally obedience and agility. Short training sessions can form part of a walk: attention, recall, self-control and settling calmly are more useful than simply raising the intensity. Vary the surroundings and tasks, but also provide undisturbed rest.

Give three skills particular attention from the start: accepting thorough coat care, remaining calm when there is activity outside the front door and spending short periods alone without becoming distressed. Build up time alone gradually from very brief, secure experiences. Increase it only while the dog remains relaxed; a fixed timetable will not suit every puppy.

## Health

The clearest documented health concerns for the Coton de Tulear in Sweden are the eye disease PRA and patellar luxation. PRA is a group of inherited diseases in which the retina gradually deteriorates and sight may eventually be lost. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; some dogs show no signs, while others experience lameness or pain.

The breed's Swedish breeding strategy provides an important but limited figure for patellar luxation. Of 156 recorded patella examinations between 2014 and 2021, 16.7 per cent showed some degree of luxation. However, only 21.8 per cent of the dogs registered during that period had been examined. The figure describes the examined sample and must not be treated as a reliable prevalence estimate for the whole breed.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination and that the certificate be no more than 18 months old at the time of mating. It also recommends another eye examination at about seven years of age, as well as a patella examination before mating, carried out no earlier than twelve months of age. These are breeding recommendations, so do not assume that every litter automatically meets them.

Ask to see the official results for both parents and check the examination dates. Also ask about eye, knee and behavioural problems among close relatives, not just the two parents. A test result reduces uncertainty about one particular issue but cannot guarantee a completely healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The reliably documented history is shorter than many of the colourful stories told about the breed. The Coton de Tulear comes from Madagascar, and “coton” in its name refers to the cotton-like coat. The breed was introduced to France before official recognition and was definitively recognised by the FCI in 1970. France is responsible for the standard, while Madagascar remains the stated country of origin.

The first Coton de Tulear registered in Sweden was imported from the Netherlands in 1991. Since then, the breed has become established there as a companion dog and also takes part in several dog sports.

Stories involving shipwrecks, pirates, royal status and laws barring ordinary people from owning the breed appear frequently online. The official breed documents do not provide enough evidence to present them as established history. They are better regarded as breed legends, not as an explanation of present-day dogs.

## Living with the Breed

A Coton de Tulear can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives daily activity, company and undisturbed rest. The size of the home matters less than the shape of the daily routine. Sounds in a communal hallway may nevertheless make training the dog to settle especially useful if it tends to bark in response.

The same safety principles apply with children as with any dog: an adult should be present whenever young children and the dog are together, and the dog needs a private resting place. Because this is a small breed, children must learn not to carry, crowd or handle the dog roughly.

The breed ideal is sociable with other dogs, but good relationships still depend on controlled introductions and positive experiences. There is not enough evidence to promise that every Coton de Tulear will live well with cats or other small animals. Introduce animals calmly, prevent chasing and make sure that each has somewhere to retreat.

Plan for time alone before the puppy comes home. Dogs need a gradual introduction to being left, and Swedish animal welfare guidance says that they should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent trips outside. A full working day with no arranged break, exercise or social contact is therefore not a sustainable solution.

Before buying, focus on concrete questions. Can you care for the coat every day? Can the breeder show you current eye and patella results? How do the parents cope with noise, encounters with dogs and being left? What experience have the puppies had of handling and normal daily environments? Clear answers to these questions give a better indication of a good match than promises that the breed suits everyone.

Coton de Tulear

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Small, sturdy companion from Madagascar, the Coton de Tulear has a long, white, cotton‑soft coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, sensitive and very people focused, it bonds closely, suits apartments, needs moderate exercise and kind training, and is generally long lived but prone to some joint, eye and skin issues.

Nina Elisabeth Norill

Anne Nystrøm

## Quick Facts

- The Löwchen is a small French companion breed in FCI Group 9, despite its German name.
- The breed standard gives a height of 26–32 centimetres, with a tolerance of one centimetre, and a weight of approximately 6 kilograms.
- The body should be square, meaning that the dog is as long as it is tall.
- The long, wavy coat has no undercoat and needs regular care to prevent matting.
- The lion trim is compulsory in the show ring, but a companion dog does not need to wear the show trim in everyday life.
- The breed is described as affectionate, attentive and responsive, but the Swedish BPH evidence is still too limited to support conclusions about traits such as barking or guarding.
- Patellar health, eye health and genetic diversity are particular priorities in Swedish breeding.

## Appearance & Coat

The Löwchen is small but sturdy, with a square body, proud head carriage and lively movement. Its official height is 26–32 centimetres at the withers, with a tolerance of one centimetre, and its weight is approximately 6 kilograms. The older idea that the breed should be longer than it is tall is therefore contrary to the standard: body length and height at the withers should be equal.

The coat should be silky, long, wavy and dense, without an undercoat. All colours and colour combinations are permitted. The lack of an undercoat does not make grooming optional. Hair that is not shed in the same way as it is in many moulting breeds can remain in the coat, while friction behind the ears, in the armpits and around the legs can quickly cause tangles.

A practical routine is to work through the coat in small sections and check it with a comb right down to the skin. The necessary frequency depends on coat length and texture, the weather and the dog’s activities. The comb should pass through without catching; do not wait until the surface looks matted. Introduce a puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail clipping, bathing and the hairdryer so that grooming becomes predictable rather than a struggle.

The traditional lion trim is the style described in the breed standard. The hindquarters and parts of the legs are clipped, while areas including the forequarters and the plume of the tail are left long. The trim is compulsory when a Löwchen is shown, and the long sections must not then be shaped. It is not a health requirement for a companion dog; a more practical pet length can make it easier to keep the skin clean and the coat free from mats.

The Löwchen is described as a breed that does not moult in the usual way, but that does not make it allergy-free. Dog allergens mainly come from skin and saliva, and the amount varies between individuals. Anyone with an allergy should therefore spend time with the particular dog on several occasions and discuss their circumstances with a healthcare professional rather than choosing a breed on coat type alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Löwchen as affectionate and obedient towards its owner, attentive and responsive, and calm and discreet when required. This is a useful picture of the breeding ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave. Genetics, early experiences, the home environment and training all influence the adult dog.

It is particularly important not to treat barking, guarding instinct or fearlessness as fixed breed traits without sufficient evidence. In the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy adopted in 2025, 37 Löwchen had completed the BPH behavioural assessment. The breed club itself considered that too few for evidence-based conclusions about the breed’s temperament. Ask the breeder how the puppy’s parents react to unfamiliar people, noises, handling, new environments and quiet time, and, if possible, meet at least the dam.

A small companion dog can enjoy being close to the family without always wanting to be carried or stroked. Teach children to let the dog move away, not to disturb it while it is eating or asleep, and never to pick it up without adult help. An adult should supervise all contact with young children. The same caution applies to other dogs and cats: a Löwchen may live happily with them, but its breed does not guarantee compatibility. Calm introductions, room to move away and separate resting places matter more than broad promises about how well animals will get on.

## Training & Exercise

The Löwchen needs daily movement, scent work, play and training, but there is no verified number of minutes that suits every adult of the breed. A healthy adult can have several walks with time to explore, combined with short training sessions and rest. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, health, weather and what the dog did the previous day. A suitable routine leaves the dog content and able to engage, rather than repeatedly stiff, lame or exhausted.

Reward-based training suits an attentive companion dog. Start with the skills that make everyday life safe: engagement, walking on a loose lead, recall, waiting, accepting handling and settling when nothing is happening. If the dog alerts to sounds in a shared hallway, reward the pause and guide it to a quiet place. Shouting over barking rarely provides the clarity you want.

For a puppy, varied, self-directed movement is more useful than the so-called five-minute rule. That formula — a set number of walking minutes for each month of age — does not tell you what your individual puppy can manage. Let the puppy explore at its own pace, provide controlled play and increase distance, surfaces and difficulty gradually. Stop and contact a vet if the puppy shows lameness, pain or reluctance to move. Do not try to prevent patellar luxation with an invented formula for stairs or jumping; work from the puppy in front of you and seek veterinary advice if you are unsure.

The breed’s size allows many activities to be adapted to it, including everyday obedience, nose work, rally obedience and agility. Choose activities to suit the dog’s interest and physical ability rather than assuming that every Löwchen enjoys the same things.

## Health

Before buying a Löwchen puppy, patellar status, eye health and a sufficiently broad breeding base are the three most important documented areas to check. This does not mean that every dog is affected, but the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy for 2025–2029 shows why breeders should address them systematically.

The strategy recommends that a vet examines breeding dogs’ knees for patellar luxation after one year of age. Dogs graded higher than 1 should not be bred from, and the recommendation is that a grade 1 dog should only be paired with a grade 0 dog. Ask to see the official result for both parents and check the examination date and the dog’s identity.

For the eyes, breeding dogs should be screened and the result should be no more than two years old at the time of mating. The strategy also recommends screening breeding dogs up to eight years of age. A finding does not automatically lead to the same breeding decision in every case; the assessment depends on the diagnosis, symptoms and veterinary guidance. Reading the actual certificates is therefore more informative than simply asking whether the parents have been ‘tested’.

There is an important difference between an officially recorded result, a recommendation in the breeding strategy and a formal condition for registering puppies. Patellar and eye results can be recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club for every breed. In the 2026 registration rules, however, the Löwchen has no special health condition. The examinations described above are therefore strong Swedish breeding recommendations; they are not something that can be assumed merely because a litter is registered.

The Löwchen has a small population internationally. The breeding strategy therefore stresses low relatedness between parents, avoiding repeat matings and not overusing individual breeding dogs. A puppy buyer can ask how the breeder assessed relatedness, why these particular parents were paired and how extensively they have already been used for breeding. Those questions complement the health certificates and show how the breeder is protecting the breed’s long-term genetic diversity.

Contact a vet if the dog is repeatedly lame, suddenly holds up a leg, or shows eye irritation, a change in vision or pain. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition and use grooming sessions to check the skin, ears, teeth, nails and paws. There is not enough evidence to call other conditions typical of the Löwchen merely because they occur in small dogs.

## History & Origins

The Löwchen is officially a French breed, although its name is German and means approximately ‘little lion’. Its French FCI name is Petit Chien Lion and its English name is Little Lion Dog. France is listed as both the country of origin and the country responsible for the standard, and the breed belongs to the companion dogs in FCI Group 9.

The official standard refers to two small dogs of Löwchen type carved in stone in the cathedral at Amiens in the 1200s. The characteristic outline also appears in tapestries from the 1400s and in later European art. These documented images show the breed’s historical type. Stories that the dogs worked as water retrievers, bed warmers or status symbols do not have the same support and should not be treated as established fact.

The French breed club was formed in 1947. The FCI granted definitive recognition in 1961, and the current FCI standard was published in 2004. The lion-like outline therefore has a long documented history, but the modern breed is clearly defined as a companion dog with no working trial.

## Living with the Breed

A Löwchen can live in a flat or a house if its routine includes walks, enrichment, coat care, rest and planned training for time alone. Floor space matters less than the routine. In a building where sound carries, the owner also needs to teach calm behaviour around doors, lifts and noises in communal areas, because the breed cannot be assumed to be either silent or especially vocal.

Time alone should be introduced in very small steps when the dog has been exercised and is calm. Begin with brief, uneventful separations and return before the dog becomes distressed. Increase the time only when the dog can settle at the current stage. There is no evidence that every Löwchen has separation problems, but its role as a companion dog is a good reason to arrange daily life so it is not left for longer than it can comfortably manage.

The coat accounts for the largest recurring commitment. Anyone who wants a full coat or plans to show the dog will need to spend more time detangling it and maintaining the correct lion trim. A shorter pet trim reduces the amount of hair to work through but does not remove the need for combing, bathing, clipping and handling practice. Be prepared either to learn the care properly or to use a dog groomer, and remember to check the skin beneath the coat.

Before buying a puppy, ask for more than general assurances that the line is healthy and good-natured. Check the original patellar and eye results, confirm that the patellar examination took place after one year of age, and make sure the eye result was no more than two years old at mating and that any findings were properly assessed. Also ask about the parents’ everyday behaviour, any completed behavioural assessments and how the mating contributes to genetic diversity. The answers help distinguish a carefully planned breeding decision from a litter that merely meets the minimum standard for registration.

The Löwchen is best suited to someone who wants a small, active companion and accepts the work involved in maintaining its coat. It is a poorer match for anyone looking for a maintenance-free coat, a guaranteed allergy-safe dog or a predetermined temperament. Choose the individual dog and breeder as carefully as the breed.

Löwchen

American Kennel Club (AKC)

The Löwchen is a small, sturdy companion dog known for its lion-like trim, long wavy coat, and proud, lively demeanor. Affectionate, alert, and people-focused, it suits varied homes, needs regular grooming, moderate daily exercise, kind training, and close involvement in family life.

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