## Quick Facts

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Scottish Highlands and western islands
- **Breed group:** Terrier, small terrier section
- **Height at the withers:** approximately 28–31 centimetres
- **Weight:** ideally 6–7.5 kilograms in proportion to height
- **Coat:** harsh outer coat over a short, soft undercoat
- **Colours:** cream, wheaten, red, grey or nearly black, with or without brindling
- **Typical traits:** active, brave, inquisitive and independent
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants to give a small working terrier both purposeful activities and clear everyday boundaries

The Cairn Terrier is a small but robust British terrier, developed for practical work among cairns and on farms. Its size makes it easy to take along, but says little about its activity level: this breed needs to use both body and mind. It is a better choice for someone who appreciates a terrier's initiative than for someone seeking a dog that automatically waits for instructions.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cairn Terrier should look natural, agile and fit for work. The breed standard gives a height of about 28–31 centimetres at the withers and an ideal weight of 6–7.5 kilograms, in proportion to height. The body is compact, with a level back, strong jaws, small pointed ears and dark hazel eyes. The front feet may be slightly larger than the hind feet, a feature associated with the breed's original work over rough ground.

The coat is double and weather-resistant. The abundant outer coat should be harsh without being coarse, while the undercoat is short, soft and close. A slight wave is permitted. Cream, wheaten, red, grey and nearly black all occur, as does brindling in these colours. Darker ears and muzzle are common. Solid black or white, or black and tan, are not accepted under the breed standard.

Appropriate grooming preserves both the texture and the protection provided by the double coat. Old outer coat is removed by hand stripping. The Swedish Kennel Club suggests two to four sessions a year as a guide, but the need depends on coat quality and how the dog is kept. Comb through the coat a couple of times a week, and accustom the dog to having its paws, ears and body handled from an early age. Clipping is not recommended because it can reduce the coat's water resistance.

A properly groomed Cairn Terrier often sheds relatively little, but low shedding does not make the breed allergy-safe. Allergic reactions can be triggered by several substances from a dog and differ from person to person. Anyone with an allergy should therefore spend time with adult dogs of the breed and discuss their own situation with a healthcare professional before deciding.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an active, brave, hardy and cheerful dog that is self-confident without being aggressive. Inquisitiveness and independence are part of the Cairn Terrier character. In daily life, this often appears as quick problem-solving, a desire to investigate and an ability to make its own decisions when something catches its interest.

The breed ideal does not guarantee the temperament of every individual. Swedish breed-club summaries describe variation in areas including sensitivity to noise, barking, hunting behaviour and social confidence. The Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment, BPH, can provide information about dogs that have actually taken part, but a breed average cannot reliably predict a puppy. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives respond to unexpected sounds, visitors, encounters with other dogs and handling.

The breed's background as a farm and hunting dog may show in its interest in movement, scents, digging and smaller animals. These tendencies are not equally strong in every Cairn Terrier, but it is sensible to plan for them from the outset. The breed can be sociable with people and dogs when given good experiences, although allowing respectful distance is often better than requiring the dog to greet everyone it meets.

## Training & Exercise

The Cairn Terrier needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, but a fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. A sound routine combines walks in varied surroundings with scent work, short training sessions, play and calm recovery. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, health and response after activity. A dog that becomes increasingly wound up does not necessarily need more excitement; it may need simpler tasks and help settling.

Training works best when it is clear, reward-based and divided into short steps. Cairn Terriers learn quickly, including things their owners did not intend to teach, so reward the everyday behaviour you want from the beginning. Vary the rewards and finish while the dog is still engaged. Harsh methods risk creating conflict without making the dog more willing to cooperate.

Recall deserves particular care in a dog that may choose a trail or animal over its handler. Begin in a low-distraction setting, reward the response consistently and use a long line where the surroundings are not securely enclosed. Treat a well-trained recall as a way to reduce risk, not as a guarantee against hunting behaviour. Providing a designated place to dig can be helpful. For sounds in a stairwell or outside a window, teach a calm alternative task; this gives the dog a clearer answer than repeated reprimands.

## Health

The Cairn Terrier is regarded as a generally healthy breed, but a responsible puppy purchase still requires questions about family health. The breed club's current breeding strategy focuses particularly on steroid-responsive meningitis-arteritis, SRMA, and the historically documented developmental kidney disorder renal dysplasia, RD. A long list of conditions that can affect dogs in general tells a buyer less about a particular family than open information about parents, full siblings and previous offspring.

SRMA is an inflammatory disease that the breed club is monitoring in collaboration with the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences. The club's recommendations include excluding an affected dog from breeding and taking close family history into account when planning matings. For a puppy buyer, the practical checkpoint is to ask about SRMA in the parents, their offspring, full siblings and parents — and to receive a specific answer, rather than simply being told that the breeding dogs appear healthy.

RD was confirmed in 28 Swedish Cairn Terriers between 1980 and 2003, while the breed club's current strategy records no subsequently confirmed cases. The club continues to recommend that an affected dog, its full siblings from the same mating and its parents be excluded from breeding. It is therefore a historically important risk for which family information remains relevant, even though no more recent confirmed Swedish cases have been reported.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a Cairn Terrier-specific requirement for a particular health test result in breeding dogs. This does not mean that health assessment is unimportant. Ask the breeder to explain which examinations have been carried out, why they were chosen and how the mating follows the breed club's recommendations on disease history and genetic diversity. Seek veterinary advice if a dog develops symptoms; breed information cannot diagnose an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Cairn Terrier was developed in the Scottish Highlands and on islands including Skye, Mull and Harris. Small, rough-coated terriers were kept on farms to control vermin and were used when hunting animals that took shelter among rocks. The word *cairn* means a mound of stones and refers to the terrain in which the dogs worked.

When the breed began to appear at dog shows, an attempt was made in 1908 to register it as the Short-haired Skye Terrier. The name was opposed, and Cairn Terrier was recognised as a breed name in 1910. The first Cairn Terrier was registered in Sweden in 1924. The modern breed standard still expresses a clear working ideal: the dog should be alert, natural in appearance, free-moving and protected by a weather-resistant coat.

This history helps to explain several present-day traits without determining the behaviour of every dog. Independence was useful when a terrier worked away from people, while a compact body enabled it to negotiate difficult ground. For today's owner, this heritage mainly means that the breed benefits from opportunities to solve problems; it does not mean the dog must be used for hunting.

## Living with the Breed

A Cairn Terrier can live in either a flat or a house if it receives enough activity, rest and training. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks and shared activities. Check fencing with an inquisitive, digging terrier in mind. In a block of flats, begin training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door early, because an alert dog can otherwise turn watching the entrance into a habit.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only when the dog can settle. A camera can help reveal stress that is not apparent when the owner returns. If the dog paces, pants, howls, barks persistently or damages things, the step is too difficult and the training needs to be scaled back.

Life with children works best when adults take responsibility for both the dog's rest and the child's behaviour. Children should not disturb a dog while it is eating or sleeping, and young children should never be left alone with a dog. Living with other dogs and cats depends on the individual, early experiences and the introduction. Keep first meetings calm and controlled, give each animal its own retreat and do not assume that friendliness towards the family cat will automatically extend to unfamiliar cats. Small companion animals require particular care because of the breed's hunting background.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond size and appearance. If possible, meet adult relatives; ask about noise, barking, hunting interest, handling and the ability to settle; and request clear answers about SRMA and RD in the family. Make sure that knowledgeable hand stripping is available to you as well. A Cairn Terrier is best suited to a home that channels its independence constructively through everyday training, scent work and consistent but kind boundaries.

Cairn Terrier

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Cairn Terrier Club of Germany

Norwegian Kennel Club

Small, sturdy Scottish terrier bred to hunt among rocky cairns. Around 28–31 cm tall with a harsh, weatherproof double coat needing regular stripping and brushing. Bold, curious, affectionate, and vocal; enjoys daily walks, mental stimulation, and active family life. Generally hardy and long-lived.

Kennel Zenith's Cairnterrier  Vi planerar en valpkull i hemmiljö i början på mars ! Vi kan också rekomendera valpar efter någon av våra två hanar .

Zenith

Amlove's Pugs

Schloss Mosbach

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

SKK-registrerad Pomeranian uppfödare i Sverige med över 30 års erfarenhet av rasen. Sedan 1993 har vi fött upp friska, rastypiska Pomeranians med fokus på hälsa, mentalitet och korrekt exteriör. En av de äldsta Pomeranian uppfödare i Sverige. 
 Vi har fött upp BIS Vinnare, Världs Vinnare, Top Dog Vinnare. 
 Alla våra hundar lever som familjemedlemmar på kenneln. Vi önskar livslång kontakt med våra valpköpare. 

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Instagram https://www.instagram.com/black_oranges/

Black Orange's Pomeranian

Lanacardiaca

Linsholmens hundar

## Quick Facts

The American Staffordshire Terrier, often called the Amstaff, is an American terrier in FCI Group 3. Compact and exceptionally strong, it is now primarily kept as a companion. The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys active training and is prepared to take responsibility for a powerful dog in everyday situations.

- The desired height at the withers is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females.
- The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 28–33 kg for males and 19–25 kg for females, but healthy body condition and balanced proportions matter more than a single figure.
- The coat is short, close, stiff and glossy, and is generally easy to maintain.
- The breed ideal is an alert, courageous and interested dog. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes the Amstaff as sociable, active and willing to cooperate, although individuals can differ considerably.
- Anyone planning to travel with the dog must check the route in advance: the American Staffordshire Terrier is subject to breed bans in both Norway and Denmark.

The American Staffordshire Terrier is a recognised breed with its own standard. A broad skull, short coat and muscular body are therefore not enough to identify a dog as an Amstaff. For a prospective puppy owner, a registered pedigree and information about the parents are much more useful than assumptions based on appearance.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Staffordshire Terrier should be strong for its size, muscular and compact, yet still agile and mobile. Its build should look balanced rather than so heavy or exaggerated that movement is affected. The desired height is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females. The standard requires height and weight to be in proportion but gives no weight range. The Swedish Kennel Club's figures are therefore a practical approximation, not a target weight that every dog should reach.

The coat lies close to the body and is short, stiff and glossy. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt will often remove loose hair, while bathing can be reserved for when it is genuinely needed. Calmly accustom a puppy to having its paws, nails, ears, mouth and skin checked. This makes both routine care and future veterinary examinations easier.

Solid, parti-colour and patched coats are permitted. All-white coats, coats that are more than 80 per cent white, black and tan, and liver are not encouraged under the standard. Colour does not reliably predict temperament or health. Redness, itching, persistent paw licking or changes in the ears should be assessed as symptoms, not attributed to coat colour.

## Temperament & Personality

An American Staffordshire Terrier should be alert, curious and courageous, but breed descriptions express an ideal and population averages, not the temperament of every dog. The Swedish Kennel Club's behavioural assessment data show relatively high sociability and energy at breed level, alongside substantial variation between individuals. Upbringing, experience and training matter, but the behaviour of close relatives is also relevant when choosing a puppy.

Ask the breeder to explain the parents' BPH behavioural assessments and, where available, their mental index using specific everyday examples. Find out how they respond to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces, handling and other dogs. Ideally, meet the dam and other close relatives. The label ‘sociable’ reveals far less than a description of how a dog recovers after an unexpected event.

This is a physically powerful breed that can be forceful. Calm, managed encounters are therefore more valuable than expecting the dog to greet everyone. Neither breed nor sex can determine whether an Amstaff will live safely with a particular dog, cat or small animal. Assess the individual dog's previous experience, interest in chasing or play, and ability to disengage and settle.

When introducing a cat, make sure the cat has protected spaces and can leave at any time. Use a gate or another secure barrier, keep early sessions short and calm, and prevent chasing from the outset. Do not leave the animals alone together until their behaviour is well understood, and accept that some pairings will never be safe.

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a family with children, but an adult must always take responsibility for their interactions. Children should leave the dog undisturbed while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a protected space of its own. Because of the breed's strength, children should not handle the dog alone in situations where a sudden lunge or encounter with another dog may be difficult to control.

## Training & Exercise

The American Staffordshire Terrier needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no single number of hours that suits every dog. A young dog, a fit adult and a dog with pain or joint disease require different plans. Adjust the level to age, health, recovery and how the dog behaves at home after exercise. The aim is a well-conditioned dog that can switch between activity and rest, not a dog exhausted at any cost.

Walks can be combined with scent work, tracking, obedience and short problem-solving activities. The Swedish Kennel Club highlights nosework, tracking and obedience as suitable pursuits. Increase duration and load gradually, and keep the dog at a healthy body condition. If the dog suddenly moves differently, hesitates before jumping into the car or recovers more slowly, ask a vet to investigate the cause. Do not try to solve the change by adding more exercise.

Everyday training should begin early and use rewards, clear routines and manageable steps. The following skills are particularly useful for a strong American Staffordshire Terrier:

- walking on a loose lead and turning away from an approaching dog;
- a well-rehearsed recall and a cue to leave an object or situation;
- calm greetings without jumping or pulling;
- waiting and settling calmly behind a gate or other barrier;
- relaxed handling of paws, nails, ears, mouth and body.

Training that relies on pain, fear or harsh corrections can damage both trust and learning. Reward the behaviour you want, make an exercise easier when the dog struggles, and seek help from a knowledgeable trainer early if the dog's strength or reactions become difficult to manage.

## Health

Hips, elbows, skin and cruciate ligaments are important areas to ask about in the American Staffordshire Terrier. The Swedish Kennel Club identifies hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cruciate ligament problems and skin conditions involving itching, rashes, red paws and allergy. This does not mean every dog will be affected. Ask for specific information about parents, siblings and previous litters rather than accepting a general claim of ‘healthy lines’.

For Swedish-registered breeding, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; American Staffordshire Terriers must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. A recorded result only means that the assessment exists, not that the joint is necessarily unaffected, so check the actual grades. The breed club's breeding strategy also recommends that a proposed litter's preliminary hip and elbow indices exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with the registration rules.

NCL-A is an inherited neurological disorder that affects the cerebellum and can cause balance and coordination problems, often first appearing between three and five years of age. It is inherited as an autosomal recessive condition with incomplete penetrance. DNA results are recorded as normal, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding. Ask to see the registered results and understand how the proposed pairing has been planned.

When assessing a litter, check:

- the parents' exact hip and elbow results and the litter's preliminary indices;
- NCL-A status and how the results affect the proposed mating;
- BPH assessments and mental index where available, supported by examples of close relatives' everyday behaviour;
- skin disease, cruciate injuries and other recurring problems among parents, siblings and earlier offspring.

## History & Origins

The American Staffordshire Terrier developed in the United States from bull-and-terrier dogs brought by immigrants during the nineteenth century. The American parent club records dogs of this type in the country by about 1870. The history includes a background in dog fighting, but the modern breed's official standard and breeding should be judged against today's expectations for function, health and temperament.

In 1936, the American Kennel Club admitted the dogs to its Stud Book as Staffordshire Terriers. The name changed to American Staffordshire Terrier on 1 January 1972 to distinguish the breed from the newly recognised Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The first American Staffordshire Terrier was registered with the Swedish Kennel Club in 1991.

These dates explain the changes in name, but they do not make every similar-looking dog the same breed. For today's puppy buyer, a verifiable pedigree, documented health information and knowledge of close relatives are more valuable than loose labels such as ‘pit bull type’.

## Living with the Breed

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough activity, recovery time and a secure routine. The size of the home matters less than how daily life is organised. In a block of flats, the owner must be able to manage the dog safely in corridors, lifts and confined spaces, prevent nuisance noise and arrange walks without every outing being dominated by difficult encounters with other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a settled adult should, after careful training, be left for only a few hours at a time. The Swedish rule that dogs must normally be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a recommended duration for leaving a dog alone. Plan for the puppy stage, working days and backup care before the dog arrives.

Think about physical control as well. A harness or collar must fit securely, the lead should provide a reliable grip, and the person walking the dog must be able to hold it if something unexpected happens. This is not an argument for harsh methods; it is a practical consequence of the breed's strength. Planning ahead, creating distance and teaching alternative behaviours prevent more problems than corrections delivered too late.

Travel requires particular care. American Staffordshire Terriers and their crosses are prohibited in Norway, including import into the country. Denmark also prohibits the breed and its crosses from being brought in for a stay. Denmark has a limited exception for direct transit by car without unnecessary stops, but this does not permit a holiday in the country, and rail travel is not covered by the exception. Rules can change, so always check current guidance from Norway's Mattilsynet and the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration before booking a journey or choosing a route.

The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys structured training, can provide daily activity and has the capacity to manage a dog that is both sociable and physically demanding. If a household cannot make time for separation training, safe introductions, lead training and careful health follow-up, a less powerful or less demanding breed is often a better choice.

American Staffordshire Terrier

American Staffordshire Terrier: muscular, medium-sized, people-focused dog with a short, easy-care coat in many colors. Affectionate, energetic, and highly trainable with consistent, positive handling. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, socialization, and responsible management.

Kennel Rise Above är en kennel som föder upp American Staffordshire Terrier i hemmiljö.

Vi finns i Marks kommun, på Sveriges Västkust.

Rasen har funnits hos oss sedan 2002 och intresset bara vuxit sig starkare.

Vi föder upp friska och familjekära hundar sedan 2004, där alla valpar väljs vid både

Kennel Rise Above

## Quick Facts

- The Shih Tzu is a small, purebred companion dog with roots in Tibet and development in China; Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard.
- The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. The FCI recognises one Shih Tzu, not separate “mini”, “imperial” or “teacup” varieties.
- Typical traits include a friendly yet independent nature, an alert expression and a sturdy body that is slightly longer than it is tall.
- The long coat requires substantial care. A shorter pet trim reduces the workload but does not remove the need for brushing, bathing and checking the eyes, ears, paws and skin.
- Free, quiet breathing, non-prominent eyes and a functional mouth matter more than an extremely short muzzle or an exaggerated coat.
- A Shih Tzu can thrive in a flat, but still needs daily movement, mental stimulation and social contact.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shih Tzu is small but sturdily built, not a delicate miniature dog. The body length from the withers to the root of the tail should exceed the height at the withers. The chest is broad and deep, and the high-set tail is carried in a curve over the back. The head is broad and round. The muzzle is short and wide, but the nostrils should be well open and the eyes large without being prominent.

The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. Breed type and sound function should take priority over trying to produce the smallest possible dog. Terms such as “imperial” and “teacup” therefore do not describe recognised size varieties of the breed.

The coat consists of long, dense outer hair and a moderate undercoat that should not be woolly. It may be straight or slightly wavy, and all colours are permitted. The hair on the head creates the characteristic chrysanthemum-like expression, but it must not obstruct the dog’s vision. The coat must never be so long or heavy that it restricts movement.

A Shih Tzu in a full-length coat needs a consistent routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes regular baths, thorough drying and combing to prevent mats. Hair around the face needs to be kept clear of the eyes, and the coat should be worked through down to the skin so that small tangles do not become large and painful.

A clipped Shih Tzu is easier to care for, but not maintenance-free. The coat continues to grow and needs brushing, washing and clipping at an interval that suits the individual coat and daily life. The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic: how a person reacts to a dog cannot be determined by the coat’s appearance or the amount of visible hair in the home.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shih Tzu should be friendly, lively, alert and independent. This companion dog often enjoys taking part in family life, but its independence may show when the dog sees no point in a task. That gives the breed character and humour, but does not make every individual automatically cooperative in every situation.

Temperament varies between individuals and is shaped by breeding, early experiences and everyday training. The breed’s friendliness is therefore no guarantee that every Shih Tzu will love all children, dogs or cats. Life with children works best when they can handle the dog calmly, leave it undisturbed while resting and avoid carrying it without help. Young children and the dog should always have an adult close by.

Meetings with other dogs and cats should be built up gradually. A calm introduction and the option to move away matter more than the assumption that the breed always gets along with everyone. Some individuals are open from the start; others need more time.

A Shih Tzu may bark at sounds and visitors, but the amount of vocalisation varies and can be influenced by daily routines. Reward calm behaviour, give the dog an alternative to rushing to the door and avoid accidentally turning every alert bark into a major event.

## Training & Exercise

The Shih Tzu needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, even though the breed is not built for prolonged, strenuous work. Several walks with time to sniff, short play sessions and small training tasks usually provide a better day than one monotonous route. Distance and intensity must be adjusted to the dog’s age, fitness, the weather and its ability to breathe.

Short, clear training sessions suit the breed’s combination of intelligence and independence. Reward the behaviour you want and work on one thing at a time: engagement, recall, handling, lead walking and settling. House training is easier with frequent chances to go outside, predictable routines and an immediate reward outdoors; there is no evidence that every Shih Tzu is unusually easy or difficult to house-train.

Heat and breathing should determine the level of activity. A Shih Tzu that breathes with effort or noise, quickly loses pace or struggles to recover should not be pushed further. Exercise during cooler parts of the day in warm weather, and ask a veterinarian to assess recurring breathing noise or reduced stamina. Snoring and rattling breathing should not be dismissed as normal simply because the breed is short-muzzled.

Time alone should be taught gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase the duration only while the dog remains calm, and adjust the plan if it shows anxiety or discomfort. In Sweden, dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs generally need more frequent opportunities.

## Health

The main health checks for a Shih Tzu concern breathing, eyes, and the mouth and teeth. The breed can live a long life, and a large British veterinary-record study found an overall disorder pattern closer to dogs in general than to several other flat-faced breeds. That does not mean the risks associated with a shortened skull can be ignored.

The Shih Tzu can be affected by brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, BOAS. In a 2026 British study of 42 Shih Tzus, the breed was assessed as having a moderate risk of BOAS, and just under half of the dogs received grade 0. The sample was small and cannot describe the health of an individual dog, but it shows why breathing must be assessed in practice. Open nostrils, quiet breathing at rest and in motion, normal recovery and a healthy body condition are important signs. The study also found an association between body condition and BOAS grade in Shih Tzus.

The Respiratory Function Grading Scheme, or RFG Scheme, is a standardised functional assessment of breathing. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to introduce central recording of RFG results for Shih Tzus, but assessments can start only when trained veterinarians and the technical procedures are in place. Ask the breeder which breathing assessments have actually been completed and check the current status with the Swedish Kennel Club.

The eyes should be large but not prominent. The Swedish Kennel Club’s breed-specific instructions identify excessively prominent eyes as a risk area, while British health guidance recommends eye screening before breeding. Seek veterinary care promptly if the dog suddenly squints, rubs an eye, or develops marked redness, cloudiness or heavy discharge; corneal injuries are painful and need examination.

The mouth is another priority because the Swedish instructions warn about a narrow lower jaw and poor dental status. In a British study of 11,082 Shih Tzus, disease affecting the gums and supporting structures of the teeth was the most frequently recorded diagnosis. The same study also highlighted anal sac, ear and eye disorders. Daily brushing with dog toothpaste is the most effective home care against plaque; veterinary checks are still needed when tartar, bad breath, bleeding gums or difficulty chewing appear.

The study reported an average age at death of 12.7 years in the British population examined. This is a population measure, not a promise for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Shih Tzu has its roots in Tibet but was developed as a breed in China, where dogs of this type lived in the imperial palaces. The FCI lists Tibet (China) as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country responsible for the breed standard. The breed belongs to the companion-dog group and has never been subject to a working trial requirement.

The first documented import to Great Britain took place in 1931. Shih Tzus were initially shown alongside Lhasa Apsos, but differences in the head and overall type led to the Shih Tzu being recognised as a separate breed in 1934. It was registered separately by the British kennel club in 1940. The breed reached Scandinavia during the 1930s.

The verified history is clear without romantic embellishment: Tibetan roots, development in China and later standardisation in Great Britain. Today’s friendly but independent companion dog reflects the role the breed has long held close to people.

## Living with the Breed

The Shih Tzu is best suited to someone who wants a small, social companion and accepts that the coat, eyes, teeth and breathing require ongoing attention. The breed can suit both flats and houses; what matters is not the size of the home but whether the dog receives movement, scent work, rest, company and regular opportunities to go outside.

Daily life is easiest when grooming, toothbrushing and handling are introduced early in small steps. A dog kept in a short trim still needs to become comfortable with a brush, comb, bath, hair dryer, paw checks and touch around the face. Plan for recurring clipping at home or by a professional groomer as well.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and preferably more adult relatives in normal movement, not only while they are sitting still. Listen to their breathing before and after a short walk, look for open nostrils and eyes that are not prominent, and ask how the breeder monitors the eyes, mouth and teeth, and respiratory function. Ask to see the available examination results and compare them with current information from the Swedish Kennel Club.

The breed is less suitable if the dog will regularly be left alone for long days, if daily coat care is unrealistic or if you want a dog for strenuous exercise in warm weather. For a home that appreciates a close companion who is not always eager to comply, the Shih Tzu can be a very enjoyable choice, provided sound function takes priority over extreme appearance.

Shih Tzu

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy companion dog from Tibetan and Chinese palaces, 4.5–8 kg with a long, flowing coat and chrysanthemum-like face. Affectionate, cheerful, and confident, it suits many homes. Needs moderate exercise, intensive grooming, and patient, reward-based training.

Stjärnhällas

Kennel Värhufvud

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Mally-Bo's

Heesa Meesas Kennel

Team Cozco

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

sefid berfi

## Quick Facts

The Italian Greyhound is the smallest breed in the sighthound group, but it is built like a sighthound in miniature. The breed standard sets a height of 32–38 centimetres for both sexes and says that the dog may weigh no more than 5 kilograms. There is no official minimum or narrow “ideal weight”; assess body condition, muscle and overall balance instead.

- Italy is the country of origin. The breed is FCI number 200 and belongs to group 10, section 3.
- The breed standard describes the temperament as lively, affectionate and docile. This is the ideal set by the standard, not a guarantee of how every dog will respond to strangers, being left alone or new surroundings.
- The short, fine coat offers limited protection from the weather. Clothing may be needed when it is cold, wet or windy, but this depends on the dog, the conditions and its activity level.
- Seeing something move can quickly trigger a chase response. Recall is important training, but a lead or securely enclosed area remains the safe choice near traffic, wildlife and small animals.
- A young dog needs protection from bad landings as well as free, varied movement that develops muscle, balance and bone.

The breed suits someone who wants to share life with a small, fast and alert dog and can combine everyday exercise with sensible safety measures. Small size does not mean that the dog has no need for exercise.

## Appearance & Coat

The Italian Greyhound should be square or nearly square: the body is the same length as, or slightly shorter than, the height at the withers. Fine bone, a deep chest, a tucked-up underline and long legs create the sighthound outline. “Fine-boned” does not mean weak, poorly muscled or underweight.

The standard calls for a springy, harmonious trot that covers ground. An exaggerated high, short step resembling hackney action is a fault, even if it may look elegant. At the gallop, the breed should show the speed and spring of a sighthound.

The coat should be short, silky and fine all over, without feathering. Under the FCI standard, only solid black, grey or isabella in different shades is accepted. White is tolerated only on the chest and feet. Red, brindle and other markings are therefore not standard colours in Sweden, although other registries or everyday colour names can cause confusion.

Coat care is simple and done as needed. Wipe away dirt, remove loose hair with a soft brush or grooming mitt, and bathe the dog when it is dirty. Check the skin, nails, pads, ears and mouth at the same time.

The fine coat provides little insulation against wind and rain. A well-fitting coat can make a walk more comfortable in poor weather, but no single temperature threshold is useful for every dog. Watch for shivering, a tense posture, reluctance to move or attempts to seek shelter. Remove or adjust clothing if the dog becomes warm as the pace increases.

## Temperament & Personality

The Italian Greyhound should be lively, affectionate and docile, and many seek close contact. This does not mean that every dog is quiet, wants to sit on a lap or can be left alone without training. Inheritance, experience and daily surroundings shape the individual.

The breed can switch quickly between rest and intense play. A dog that can move, sniff, learn and rest without disturbance is more likely to settle indoors.

The Swedish BPH and MH behaviour-assessment sample is too small to support firm conclusions about the entire breed. Meet the parents and adult relatives instead. Observe how they recover after surprises, greet unfamiliar people and relax when nothing is happening.

With children, the way they interact matters more than age alone. An adult should supervise play, the dog must be able to move away, and children should not carry it or disturb it while it sleeps or eats. The dog can be injured if dropped, run into or involved in rough play with a much larger dog. Match play styles and stop before the pace becomes uncontrolled.

Living with cats can work after a calm, controlled introduction, but previous experience is no guarantee outdoors. Movement may arouse the urge to chase. Birds, rabbits and small rodents should be kept physically separate. Adapt gates, leads and separate rooms to the dog's actual behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

The Italian Greyhound needs to move every day, have opportunities to run safely and train in short, enjoyable sessions. No reliable rule in minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery determine the balance between walks, play and free movement.

The breed club's breeding strategy highlights long walks, varied training and safe free running. In an enclosed area, the dog can change pace without the risks from traffic and wildlife found in open spaces. Check fencing, gates and the ground. Train recall and the habit of checking in voluntarily, but do not expect them to remove the chase response.

A puppy needs a balance between physical challenge and protection. The breed club's strategy recommends early movement over varied surfaces and safe free activity to build muscle and bone. Let the puppy move at its own pace on surfaces with good grip. Prevent falls from high furniture, poor landings on slippery floors and collisions with larger dogs. Introduce stairs, jumping and dog sports gradually as body control develops.

Use reward-based training in short sessions. Walking well on the lead, calm handling of feet and mouth, waiting at doors and having a safe resting place are particularly valuable everyday skills.

In cold or wet weather, clothing and several shorter outings may work better than a walk during which the dog becomes stiff with cold. Choose sheltered routes and add indoor scent work. If the dog limps, avoids putting weight on a leg or suddenly refuses to move, stop the activity and have it assessed by a vet.

## Health

The Italian Greyhound is not covered by a breed-specific health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026. This does not make health examinations unimportant. The current Swedish breeding strategy recommends an eye examination for prospective parents before mating. It also encourages an official patella examination and having a vet listen to the heart before breeding. Regular dental care is another priority.

Owner surveys, insurance statistics and veterinary records collect information in different ways, and several Swedish datasets are small. They cannot provide a certain risk for an individual dog. Eyes, teeth, kneecaps and fractures of the radius and ulna are still relevant questions because they recur in the available material.

It is important to distinguish between two kinds of dental problem. Regular oral care and veterinary checks help prevent ordinary periodontal disease. Familial enamel hypoplasia, FEH, is instead a recessively inherited enamel defect linked to the ENAM gene. It can cause pitting, discolouration and abnormal tooth shape. UC Davis stresses that the FEH variant is not associated with periodontal disease; a DNA result therefore does not replace dental care.

Genetic risk assessments are available internationally for primary closed-angle glaucoma, PCAG, and progressive retinal atrophy, PRA. They do not give a simple answer that a dog is clear or will become affected. The PCAG test concerns two linked risk variants found in many, but not all, affected dogs in the study. The PRA result combines five risk regions, and other genetic forms may exist. These tests are not Swedish registration requirements and do not replace an eye examination.

Small puppies may jump from a height before they can control the landing, and the Swedish material mentions forearm fractures. Use non-slip flooring, controlled play and protection from high falls. Do not keep a healthy puppy still; varied, safe movement helps build the body.

Ask the breeder to show the examination and test results and explain how they were considered when the mating was planned. Also ask about dental, eye, knee and heart health, and fractures among close relatives. “Health tested” is not enough; ask for the test name, date, result and limitations.

## History & Origins

The breed standard describes a route from small sighthounds at the pharaohs' courts, through Greece, to Italy at the beginning of the fifth century BC. It also says that the breed's most important development took place at Renaissance courts. This is the official account, not evidence of an unbroken modern pedigree or every later royal anecdote.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes hunting small game as a historical role and further development in Italy, Germany and Austria. The companion role and sighthound qualities belong together: quick reactions, visually triggered pursuit and the ability to gallop remain.

In the FCI standard, Italy is the country of origin and the breed belongs to the sighthounds, not the toy and companion group. Its needs should therefore be considered those of a small sighthound, even if it enjoys resting close to the family.

## Living with the Breed

An Italian Greyhound can live well in a flat if it can be taken out easily, exercises every day, can run safely and has somewhere undisturbed to rest. Routines matter more than the size of the home. Slippery floors, uncontrolled jumps and long days alone do not become suitable simply because the dog is small.

Time alone should be taught gradually. Start when the dog has been out and is calm, leave for a short time and increase only when it can rest. A camera can show what happens, but a second dog is not a reliable solution. If the dog barks, howls, destroys things or cannot take food, take a step back in training; seek professional help if the problem is pronounced.

House training is a training issue, not a proven breed defect. Give frequent opportunities after sleep, meals and play, go outside with the dog and reward success. Protection from the weather may help, but consistent opportunities and supervision matter more than a special indoor toilet.

Put rugs where the dog slips, provide an undisturbed resting place and prevent unsafe high jumps. At the same time, let the dog explore different surfaces and use its body. Children and larger dogs require supervision; cats require a slow introduction and the option of separation.

Before buying a puppy, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- When were the parents' eyes examined, and what were the results?
- Are official patella results available, and did a vet listen to each parent's heart before breeding?
- Were FEH, PCAG or PRA risk panels used, and how should these particular results be interpreted?
- What is known about dental health, fractures, eye problems and knee problems in close and older relatives?
- How do the parents behave around new people, surfaces, handling, rest and short periods alone?
- How have the puppies been helped to develop balance, muscle, confidence in different environments and everyday routines?

A good match requires appreciation of the sighthound's speed and sensitivity, the ability to support safe physical development and a willingness to teach everyday life step by step. The Italian Greyhound can then be both a close companion and an active, capable little dog.

Italian Greyhound

The Italian Greyhound Club (UK)

The Italian Greyhound is a tiny, fine‑boned sighthound with a short, low‑shedding coat and elegant movement. Affectionate, sensitive and people‑oriented, it bonds closely, needs warmth, gentle training, moderate exercise with safe sprints, and careful handling to protect its delicate limbs.

Småskalig uppfödning i hemmamiljö, bosatta i centrala Göteborg. Mina hundar är familjemedlemmar inte handelsvaror. De sover i sängen och får följa med på det mesta

Augustimåne

Creme Havanna's

Tazzels Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

My precious

## Quick Facts

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is a small, lively companion dog that usually wants to stay close to its people. The breed can suit a first-time owner or a family prepared to train regularly, but it is not an effortless choice simply because it is small. The coat needs consistent care, time alone must be introduced gradually, and the individual dog's temperament matters more than broad descriptions of the breed.

- The breed is recognised nationally by the Nordic kennel clubs and is placed in Group 9, but it is not recognised by the FCI.
- The desired maximum height at the withers is 26 cm, and the ideal weight is 3–4 kg.
- The coat is long, dense, and curly or wavy. It often sheds relatively little, but that does not make the breed allergy-free.
- The breed standard calls for an affectionate, lively and cheerful dog. Swedish behavioural evidence is too limited, however, to make firm promises about every individual.
- A puppy buyer should check recorded results for patellae, eyes and prcd-PRA, while also asking how the parents behave in everyday situations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka should be small and compact, with a body that is slightly longer than the height at the withers. Under the standard, body length may be no more than 15 per cent greater than height. The abundant coat can make the dog look rounder than it is, so body condition and structure need to be assessed by touch as well as by sight.

The coat should be long, dense and moderately thick, with large curls or waves. There may be a moderate undercoat, or none at all. All colours are permitted except solid white, spotted or parti-colour, and merle. A very small, barely visible white mark may occur on the chin, throat, forechest or toes. Larger white areas are therefore not part of the accepted colour pattern.

The coat needs to be combed through regularly, right down towards the skin. Long, soft hair tangles most readily where there is friction, including the armpits, groin, behind the ears, and beneath a harness or collar. How often the whole coat needs attention depends on its texture and length and on the dog's routine, but vulnerable areas should be checked frequently and small tangles eased out before they tighten into mats. From the start, teach the puppy to accept a comb, paw handling and short pauses on a non-slip surface.

For presentation under the official show standard, the coat must not be clipped or trimmed, apart from neatening the hair on the feet. Hair on the head may be tied up if it falls in front of the eyes. This rule describes how the breed is presented to the standard. In everyday life, the coat still needs care that prevents discomfort around the skin, eyes and feet.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes an affectionate, lively, cheerful and sociable companion. Many people therefore look for a Bolonka that enjoys taking part in family life and is easy to bring along. That is a reasonable aim, but it is no guarantee that every dog will automatically feel confident with strangers, remain quiet in a flat or find every encounter easy.

Evidence from the Swedish population is limited. The current breed-specific breeding strategy drew on just 20 completed BPH behavioural assessments and 139 responses to a health and behaviour survey, among other material. That is not enough for confident conclusions about the whole breed. In the survey, 18.7 per cent of respondents said they were not satisfied with their dog's behaviour, but this is a survey result rather than a reliable estimate for the population. Its main value is to show why a friendly description of the breed cannot replace an assessment of the prospective litter's parents.

Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, unexpected sounds, handling and other dogs, and how readily they settle after activity. BPH results, where available, can add useful observations, but read the full description rather than searching for a single pass mark. Barking and interest in chasing can vary with both the individual and the environment; there is not enough evidence to promise a particular level across the breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka needs daily movement, mental activity and rest, but there is no sound breed-specific formula expressed in minutes. A balanced routine might include walks in varied surroundings, scent work, play and short training sessions. Adjust the duration and difficulty to the dog's age, fitness and recovery. A dog that struggles to settle may need less excitement and more recovery, while one that loses focus and invents its own entertainment may benefit from more purposeful stimulation.

Use reward-based training, progress in small steps and account for the individual dog's motivation. Start early with the skills that make everyday life easier: attention, recall, waiting at a door, walking calmly on a lead, settling in a chosen place, and accepting coat and paw care. Take the puppy out frequently after sleep, food and play, praise it for toileting outside, and do not punish indoor accidents. Reward calm behaviour before the dog becomes worked up and barks at sounds or visitors, while also reducing environmental triggers that keep the behaviour going.

A small body is no reason to carry the dog through every situation. Allow it to move, explore and solve manageable problems on its own feet. Avoid, however, demands that are not suitable for a young or unconditioned dog. The breed is described as trainable and may enjoy activities such as scent work, rally obedience or other sports based on cooperation between dog and handler.

## Health

There is not enough evidence to give a reliable account of the breed's most common health problems in Sweden. When the current breeding strategy was prepared, there were few dogs in the country, the health survey had 139 responses, and no breed-specific insurance statistics were available. There is therefore no sound basis for presenting a long list of conditions as unusually common in this breed. Puppy buyers will get better evidence by examining recorded tests for the parents and close relatives.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella result. This examination records whether the kneecap is stable or can be displaced during a veterinary assessment. The aim is to mate two dogs with no abnormality. Under the recommendation, a dog graded 1 should only be mated to a dog with no abnormality, while dogs graded 2 or above should not be used for breeding.

For eye health, the recommendation is a clear eye examination no more than one year before mating. The club also recommends a recorded DNA result for prcd-PRA: a carrier should be mated to a genetically clear dog, not to another carrier. A prcd-PRA DNA test answers only for the variant being tested. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye changes, so it cannot replace a clinical eye examination.

These are the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules contain no breed-specific condition that makes these particular results compulsory for registering a litter. The distinction matters: a registered puppy may come from a mating that does not follow every club recommendation. Ask to see the original results or check them in the Swedish Kennel Club's dog database, and ask how the breeder has considered the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The breed was developed as a companion dog in the former Soviet Union. The current standard states that breeding began in 1951, using small dogs of unknown origin. This cautious account is more reliable than detailed stories naming particular foundation breeds without firm documentation.

The first breed standard was approved in 1966. Interest and numbers increased during the 1970s and 1980s, and a national breed club was founded in 1999. The standard was revised in 2010 and 2019. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 2006, and the first Swedish litters were born in 2007. Since 2013, the breed has had national recognition and been eligible for shows within the Nordic kennel organisations, despite still lacking FCI recognition.

## Living with the Breed

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka can live well in a flat if it receives suitable toilet breaks, activity and rest, alongside training to remain calm when it hears sounds in the stairwell or outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the way daily life is organised. Anyone looking for a small dog to fit a sedentary lifestyle should reconsider: the breed's size reduces the space it occupies, not its need for company, movement and learning.

Time alone must be introduced in very small, calm steps. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. Begin when the dog feels secure and has been taken out, step away briefly, and return before it becomes worried. Increase the time only when the dog can rest. Arrange help if the working day requires longer absences than the individual dog can cope with without distress.

Young children need adult supervision around the dog. Such a small dog requires an undisturbed resting place and should not be lifted, carried or pursued by young children. Teach the child to call the dog rather than grabbing it, and allow the dog to walk away. This protects both dog and child and tells you more about a safe home than the label “good with children”.

Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give the cat high escape routes and a dog-free area, prevent chasing, keep the dog on a lead during the first controlled meetings, and reward calm behaviour. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over time. Small pets should always be protected by secure separation.

The breed may shed less than many other dogs, but it is not hypoallergenic. Dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin, and amounts vary even among individuals of the same breed. Low shedding does not show that a dog produces fewer allergens. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore rely on medical advice, not on a promise attached to a particular breed.

Before buying, focus on concrete checks: meet the dam if possible and watch how she recovers from ordinary events, ask for patella, eye and prcd-PRA results, discuss the true workload involved in coat care, and plan for time alone, children or other animals in your own home. This tests whether the individual dog and the way it has been bred suit your life, instead of relying on its small size or an idealised breed description.

Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka

Svenska Kennelklubben (SKK)

Deutscher Verband der Gebrauchshundsportvereine (DVG)

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Small, sturdy Russian toy breed with a long, wavy low‑shedding coat and many colors. Affectionate, people‑oriented and sensitive, it thrives on close companionship and moderate daily exercise. Intelligent and adaptable to apartments, but needs regular grooming and dislikes long solitude.

Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norway)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen: small, sturdy French scent hound with a rough, tousled coat and shaggy eyebrows and beard. Cheerful, social and comical yet independent, vocal and strong‑willed. Needs plenty of exercise, patient positive training and secure fencing due to strong hunting drive.

Royale Pyrenees

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Hungarian Vizsla

Hungarian Vizsla: medium, athletic gundog with a short golden‑rust coat and expressive amber eyes. Affectionate, people‑oriented and high‑energy, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and gentle, consistent training. Clean, easy‑care coat; bonds closely with active families.

Vi föderupp korthårig Kanintax, Dvärgtax och Normaltax och Ungersk Vizsla sen 2011 med stamtavla.
Våra avels mål är sunda friska stabila hundar som fungerar utmärkt som familjemedlemmar och i andra aktiviteter. En tax fungerar utmärkt till det mesta så också en vizsla.
Alla våra hundar kan givetvis tränas för jakt. 
Välkommen visa intresse för våra hundar. / Catarina Wik /Göteborg / 
Kennelpojke Fredrik Rodin / Your Choice kennel

Your Choice Kennel

## Quick Facts

The French Bulldog is a small, sturdy and sociable companion dog from France. It should be lively and active, but its shortened skull and muzzle carry a risk of breathing problems and impaired temperature regulation. Anyone considering the breed should therefore assess function and documented health as carefully as temperament and appearance.

- **Breed group and purpose:** FCI Group 9, companion dog
- **Height at the withers:** males 27–35 cm, females 24–32 cm
- **Weight:** males 9–14 kg, females 8–13 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and without an undercoat
- **Colours in the breed standard:** fawn, brindle and pied, with the markings described in the standard
- **Ideal temperament:** sociable, lively, playful and affectionate
- **Important Swedish health assessment:** RFG-Scheme has been mandatory before breeding within SKK since 1 January 2025

The breed is not an obvious choice for anyone seeking a dog with low care needs. A French Bulldog should be able to move freely and breathe freely even while moving. Audible or laboured breathing is not a charming or normal breed trait.

## Appearance & Coat

The French Bulldog should be compact and muscular without becoming heavy, immobile or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the head is broad and the upright “bat ears” are a defining feature. The whole dog should function in motion: open nostrils, adequate muzzle length, free movement and a body that does not prevent activity matter more than an extreme appearance.

The breed standard specifies different measurements for each sex. Males should stand 27–35 cm and weigh 9–14 kg, while females should stand 24–32 cm and weigh 8–13 kg. These figures are not a target weight for every individual. A suitable body condition depends on the dog’s build, muscle mass and body fat; excess weight puts additional strain on breathing, joints and the back.

The coat is short, smooth, soft and glossy, with no undercoat. Shedding can normally be managed with simple brushing as needed. At the same time, check the nails, paws, ears, teeth and skin. Facial folds should be kept clean and dry, but care should follow the skin’s actual condition. Redness, odour, discharge, itching or soreness call for advice, not simply more frequent cleaning.

The breed standard’s colours are fawn, brindle and pied. Blue and merle are not accepted colours. A puppy marketed as a “rare colour” should be assessed using the same important evidence as any other puppy: registration, respiratory function, the parent dogs and the breeder’s breeding programme.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the French Bulldog should be sociable, lively, playful and affectionate. Many individuals enjoy contact and like to take part in family life. The breed can learn quickly, but independence and stubbornness mean that clear routines and worthwhile rewards often work better than repetition or harsh corrections.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not every dog. Inheritance, early experience, health, pain, environment and training all affect an individual’s behaviour. A dog that struggles to breathe or is uncomfortable because of its skin, back or joints may also have less patience and recover less well. Temperament should therefore be considered alongside physical function.

BPH shows how a particular dog responded during a standardised behavioural assessment. It is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy’s future personality. The older Swedish BPH analysis covered only a small proportion of French Bulldogs born in Sweden. For a puppy buyer, it is therefore more useful to meet the dam and ask how the parents and close relatives cope with unfamiliar people, dog encounters, unexpected noises, handling, activity and rest.

The breed can suit a well-informed first-time owner who is prepared for reward-based training, daily activity and possible veterinary needs. It is less suitable when the choice is based mainly on small size, a particular look or the assumption that a short-muzzled dog automatically needs very little exercise.

## Training & Exercise

A French Bulldog needs daily walks, scent work, play and everyday training, but no single number of exercise minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, weather and, above all, the dog’s breathing and recovery determine what is appropriate. Cooling through panting is less efficient in short-muzzled dogs, so the same activity may be easy on a cool day and unsuitable in hot weather.

Plan several manageable activities rather than one long session that has to be completed. Let the dog sniff, walk calmly over varied ground and use its brain through searches and simple problem-solving. Build fitness gradually and watch the dog throughout the activity. Slow down or stop if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, the nostrils narrow, the dog uses its abdomen forcefully to breathe, falls behind or does not recover normally. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness requires immediate veterinary attention.

In hot weather, walks need to be moved to cooler times, the pace reduced and the dog given shade, water and a cool place to rest. Never leave the dog in a hot car or another enclosed space. A dog that repeatedly struggles during moderate activity or warm weather needs a veterinary assessment; merely avoiding all exercise is not a solution.

Prioritise attention, calm lead walking, recall, ending play, settling and accepting checks of the mouth, ears, facial folds, paws and nails. Teach the dog to be alone in very small steps once it already feels secure at home. Reward-based methods make each task clear and make necessary handling easier.

## Health

The most important health problem to understand in the French Bulldog is BOAS, brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome. It occurs when there is insufficient space for the soft tissues within the shortened nose and throat. The consequences can include noisy or laboured breathing, poor stamina, disturbed sleep and difficulty regulating body temperature.

RFG-Scheme is a veterinary assessment that evaluates respiratory function before and after three minutes of brisk exercise and grades the result from 0 to 3. Since 1 January 2025, French Bulldogs have been covered by a Level 2 health programme within SKK: dogs used for breeding must have a result before mating. An official result can be registered from 24 months of age and must be no more than two years old at the time of mating. Grade 0 is recommended; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be used for breeding under SKK rules. A dog that has undergone airway surgery cannot be assessed within the scheme.

An RFG result describes the dog’s condition at the time of the assessment and does not remove the need for your own observations. It is not a lifetime guarantee and does not cover every other health risk. Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents’ registered names, assessment dates and actual RFG grades. Ideally, see the parents both at rest and after normal movement: breathing should be free, recovery reasonable and the nostrils open. Do not accept “tested” or “vet checked” as a substitute for the registered result.

Other documented areas of risk include allergies and skin disease, problems affecting the back, skeleton and joints including patellar luxation, and injuries to the prominent eyes. This does not mean that every dog will be affected. Ask about recurring skin problems, lameness, back pain and eye injuries in the parents and close relatives. The Swedish breed club also recommends that puppy buyers ask about patellas, the heart and breathing in the adult dogs; these questions should be distinguished from the formal RFG requirement.

Contact a vet about recurring breathing noises, clear exercise or heat intolerance, sleep disturbed by breathing, smelly or painful skin, recurring lameness, back pain, or a red, watery or painful eye. Early assessment is better than waiting for a problem to become “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The French Bulldog was established as a breed in Paris in the late nineteenth century. The first breed club was founded in Paris in 1880, the first dog was registered in 1885 and the first breed standard was adopted in 1898. The French kennel club recognised the breed in the same year.

The breed developed as a companion dog and acquired the compact body, broad head and upright bat ears that still characterise the standard. The French Bulldog was first shown in Sweden in 1913. Its historical type explains the modern appearance, but breeding today should not intensify these features to the point that breathing, eyes, back, tail or movement are adversely affected.

## Living with the Breed

A French Bulldog can live in a flat or a house because the size of the home alone does not determine whether daily life will work. What matters is that the dog receives daily activity, can rest undisturbed and has a secure, cool environment. In a flat, sounds from stairwells and outside windows should be addressed through early training, and access to a lift or the number of stairs may become important if the dog is in pain or has difficulty breathing.

The same safety rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult is responsible for their interaction. Children should not disturb the dog while it eats or rests, climb on it or persist when it tries to move away. Provide a protected resting place and teach both children and dog to interact calmly. Small size and a playful temperament do not automatically make an individual safe with children.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and their previous experiences. Make introductions gradually, with a way to separate the animals and without forcing close contact. Socialisation may improve the prospects but cannot guarantee that every combination will work. Pay particular attention to stress, resource guarding and whether another dog’s play becomes too physical for an individual with limited breathing capacity.

Time alone needs to be taught gradually, beginning with very short periods. Increase the duration only when the dog can remain calm, and consider using a camera to detect distress or barking that is not apparent when you return. The breed should not be chosen with a plan to leave the dog alone for most of the day on a regular basis.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can we put unrestricted breathing and sound physical function ahead of an extreme appearance or an unusual colour?
- Can we verify the parents’ identities, RFG grades and assessment dates rather than relying on verbal assurances?
- Can we adapt activity to heat and the dog’s condition without making it inactive?
- Do we have the time and financial capacity to manage the veterinary needs that may accompany the breed’s body shape?

If the answers are yes and the breeder can show verifiable results, the French Bulldog can be a lively and close companion. The most important choice is not the most extreme head or rarest colour, but a dog that can breathe, move, recover and enjoy an active everyday life.

French Bulldog

The French Bulldog Club of England

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The French Bulldog is a small, muscular companion dog with a short coat and bat-like ears. Affectionate, people oriented, and playful yet calm indoors, it suits apartment life. It needs moderate, carefully managed exercise, regular skin, ear, and nail care, and attention to breathing and weight.

## Quick Facts

- Tiny companion breed from the Czech Republic, traditionally used as a nimble ratter in castles and city homes  
- Very small and lightweight, yet surprisingly athletic and confident in attitude  
- Strong bond with their people, often choosing one favorite person while still loving the whole family  
- Short, easy care coat, but they feel the cold and usually need a sweater or coat in cooler weather  
- Alert watchdog with a big voice for such a small body, making them excellent little house guardians  

## Appearance & Coat

The Prague Ratter is one of the smallest dog breeds in the world, but their presence feels much larger than their size. Most adults stand around 20 to 23 centimeters at the shoulder and weigh between 1.5 and 3.5 kilograms. They are compact, well balanced and lightly built, with a fine bone structure that still feels surprisingly sturdy in the hand. Their body is slightly longer than tall, with a graceful neck and an elegant, almost toy like silhouette.

The head is small and refined, with a gently rounded skull and a narrow muzzle that tapers without appearing snippy. Dark, expressive eyes give the Prague Ratter a lively and alert expression that many owners describe as nearly human. Ears are usually set high and carried erect, which adds to their inquisitive look. The tail may be natural or docked depending on local regulations, but in motion it often curves slightly and shows how much they enjoy life.

The coat of the Prague Ratter is most commonly short, smooth and tight to the body, with a glossy shine when in good condition. There is also a longer coated variety, sometimes with light feathering on ears, legs and tail, although the short coat is still much more widespread. Classic coloring for the breed is black and tan, with rich tan markings above the eyes, on the cheeks, chest, legs and under the tail. However, other colors exist, such as brown and tan, blue and tan, red, yellow and occasionally merle in some lines where it is allowed.

Caring for the coat is generally straightforward, which is one reason the Prague Ratter appeals to many modern owners. A weekly brush with a soft bristle brush or grooming glove is usually enough to remove loose hairs and keep the coat shiny. During seasonal shedding periods, brushing two or three times a week can help reduce hair around the house. Because the coat is so short, skin health is particularly important. Use mild dog shampoo, avoid over bathing, and check regularly for dry patches or irritation.

Their small size means they feel temperature changes quite strongly. In cool or wet weather, most Prague Ratters appreciate a light coat or sweater, especially on windy days. In winter in colder climates, a warm jacket and even small dog boots can be useful for longer walks, as salt and ice may irritate their delicate paws. Regular nail trimming, ear cleaning and dental care are also essential, since many toy breeds are prone to dental tartar and gum issues. With a simple but consistent grooming routine, a Prague Ratter will stay neat and comfortable with very little fuss.

## Temperament & Personality

The Prague Ratter is often described as a big dog in a tiny body. They are confident, spirited and curious, and they love to be involved in everything their family does. In daily life, you can expect a Prague Ratter to follow you from room to room, jump onto the sofa to sit beside you, and quickly learn the sounds of your routine. They thrive on human company and usually do not enjoy being left alone for long periods.

With their families, Prague Ratters tend to be very affectionate and loyal. Many form a particularly close bond with one person, often the main caregiver, while still being friendly and cuddly with other family members. They like to burrow under blankets, curl up on laps, and sleep close to their people at night. For some owners this closeness is the best part of living with the breed, but it also means that these dogs can become quite dependent and may develop separation anxiety if not trained to be comfortable alone.

Around children, the Prague Ratter can be a loving and playful companion, but their tiny size requires careful supervision. Well raised children who understand how to be gentle can enjoy teaching tricks, playing short games of fetch or simply cuddling on the sofa. However, rough handling, squeezing or accidental dropping can seriously injure such a small dog. Families with very young or boisterous children must think honestly about whether everyone can respect the physical limits of the breed.

With other dogs, Prague Ratters are often confident and sometimes a little too bold. They may challenge much larger dogs without realizing how small they really are. Early socialization in safe environments is important, so they learn to read other dogs correctly and to interact politely. With other small dogs they usually get along well, especially if introduced gradually. Their original role as a ratter means that many keep a strong prey drive, so caution is needed with pet rodents, small birds or free roaming rabbits. Some can live with cats, especially if raised together from puppyhood, but many will still chase if the cat runs.

One notable personality trait of the Prague Ratter is their alertness. They notice every sound in the hallway, footsteps outside the door, and cars arriving at the house. This makes them excellent little watchdogs, but it can also lead to nuisance barking if not managed. Teaching a reliable “quiet” cue and rewarding calm behavior works better than scolding. Because they are intelligent and eager to please, Prague Ratters respond well to gentle, reward based training that makes them think and keeps them included.

Potential challenges include:

- Tendency to bark at noises or strangers  
- Strong attachment that can turn into separation anxiety  
- Prey drive towards small animals  
- Overconfidence with larger dogs

For owners who can provide structure, patience and plenty of closeness, the Prague Ratter is a deeply loving companion with a lively, entertaining personality that fills the home with energy.

## Training & Exercise

Despite their tiny body, the Prague Ratter is an active and quick thinking dog that truly enjoys training. They are usually food motivated, curious and eager to be part of whatever their person is doing. This combination means that, with the right approach, training can be both effective and great fun for everyone.

The best training methods for a Prague Ratter are positive and encouraging. They respond very well to:

- Small, tasty treats as rewards  
- Verbal praise delivered in a warm, happy tone  
- Short, varied sessions that keep boredom away  
- Games that let them use both body and brain  

Harsh corrections, shouting or physical punishment can damage their trust and may make them anxious or defensive. Given their sensitive nature, it is much more successful to guide them gently and reward what you like, rather than focusing heavily on what you do not want.

Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, recall and walking nicely on a leash should start early. Because of their size, some owners fall into the trap of carrying them everywhere and allowing pushy behaviors that would never be accepted in a larger dog. It is important to remember that a Prague Ratter is still a dog, not a toy, and needs the same clear boundaries and consistent rules as any other breed. Teaching them to walk on their own four paws, wait calmly at doors, and greet people politely helps prevent “small dog syndrome” and makes daily life easier.

Exercise needs are moderate but not negligible. A Prague Ratter does not require long mountain hikes, but they do enjoy several short walks every day, along with time to sniff, explore and play. Many adults are happy with around 45 to 60 minutes of activity spread throughout the day, adapted to their age and health. This might include:

- Two or three brisk walks of 10 to 20 minutes each  
- Play sessions at home such as fetch or tug with safe, lightweight toys  
- Short indoor training games on rainy or very cold days  

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Because of their history as ratters, many Prague Ratters enjoy nose work games, searching for treats hidden in folded towels or simple puzzle toys. Some take to beginner level agility, trick training or mini obedience competitions. These activities help to channel their natural alertness and intelligence, and they also strengthen the bond between dog and owner.

Owners should keep in mind that the Prague Ratter is small and can tire more quickly than a larger, athletic breed, especially on rough terrain or in extreme temperatures. Watch for signs of fatigue, such as lagging behind, panting heavily or refusing to continue. In hot weather, avoid walking in the full midday sun and offer water frequently. In cold weather, keep walks shorter and use dog clothing to protect their body and paws.

Early socialization is a key part of training. Expose your Prague Ratter puppy to different people, gentle dogs, vehicles, sounds and environments in a positive, controlled way. Reward calm curiosity and allow them to retreat if something worries them, rather than forcing contact. A well socialized Prague Ratter is far less likely to develop fearfulness or sharpness in adulthood.

When training and exercise are tailored to their size and temperament, Prague Ratters become delightful, manageable companions who enjoy learning, exploring and being by your side in everyday life.

## Health

Although usually a robust and lively little dog, the Prague Ratter does have some health issues that owners and breeders should be aware of. Responsible breeding, routine veterinary care and careful daily management all play an important role in keeping this breed healthy over the long term.

Common health concerns in Prague Ratters can include:

- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap slips out of place, causing lameness or hopping  
- Dental problems such as tartar build up, gum disease and retained baby teeth, which are common in many toy breeds  
- Fragile bones in very small individuals, leading to a risk of fractures from jumping or accidental falls  
- Heart issues in some lines, particularly valve diseases that may appear with age  
- Eye conditions such as cataracts or dry eye in certain bloodlines  

Because of these potential problems, many breed clubs and responsible breeders recommend specific health tests. These may include veterinary examination of the knees to check for patellar luxation, eye examinations by a specialist, and in some cases heart evaluations. Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders what health checks have been carried out on the parents, and requesting to see the relevant documentation.

Lifespan for a well cared for Prague Ratter is often between 12 and 15 years, and many remain active and playful well into their senior years. To support a long and healthy life, owners should focus on several key areas.

Firstly, weight management is essential. Even a small amount of extra weight is significant on such a tiny frame and can increase the strain on joints, heart and other organs. Feed a high quality, age appropriate diet and measure portions carefully. Treats should make up only a small part of daily calorie intake. It is easy to spoil such a small, cute dog with snacks, but their body will thank you for moderation.

Secondly, dental care deserves special attention. Daily or at least frequent tooth brushing with dog safe toothpaste helps to prevent plaque and tartar buildup. Regular dental check ups with the vet allow early intervention if problems arise. Many Prague Ratters accept tooth brushing readily if introduced gradually with patience and rewards.

Thirdly, owners should protect their dog from accidents and injuries. Avoid allowing a Prague Ratter to jump from high furniture or run up and down steep stairs repeatedly. Train them to use ramps or small steps to reach sofas or beds if they are allowed on furniture. When out on walks, use a lightweight harness instead of a collar for leash attachment, to avoid pressure on the delicate neck and trachea.

Routine preventive care such as vaccinations, parasite control, and annual health checks are also important. Senior Prague Ratters may benefit from more frequent veterinary visits to monitor heart function, joints, dental health and general condition. Early detection of changes, such as weight loss, coughing, stiffness or increased thirst, can greatly improve the success of treatment.

Breeders who care about the future of the Prague Ratter focus not only on appearance but also on solid health, sound temperament and appropriate size. As a buyer or owner, supporting these efforts by choosing responsible breeders and following veterinary advice will help to keep this charming little breed healthy and happy for generations to come.

## History & Origins

The Prague Ratter, known in its homeland as Pražský krysařík, has a history that stretches back many centuries in the Czech lands and neighboring regions. While the exact origins are not fully documented, it is widely believed that small, agile terrier type dogs were kept in royal courts, castles and city houses to control rats and other vermin. Their compact size, quick reflexes and keen hunting instinct made them extremely effective at this job.

Historical records and paintings from Central Europe show tiny black and tan dogs at the side of nobility and in the bustling streets of medieval towns. These early Prague Ratters were valued not only as working ratters but also as charming companions, often living close to their owners and sharing their daily life. Their presence in royal courts helped spread their reputation abroad as well, and small dogs similar to the Prague Ratter appeared in other European countries.

Over time, changes in living conditions, urban development and the introduction of other fashionable toy breeds led to a decline in the popularity of the Prague Ratter. For a period, the breed seemed at risk of disappearing, kept mainly by a small number of enthusiasts in rural areas and by families who valued them as traditional rat catchers and house companions.

In the late 20th century, interest in native breeds and cultural heritage in the Czech Republic led to renewed efforts to preserve and standardize the Prague Ratter. Dedicated breeders began to select carefully for type, temperament and health, and a modern breed standard was created. This work helped the Prague Ratter move from a nearly forgotten local dog to an internationally recognized companion breed with growing popularity in various European countries and beyond.

Today, the Prague Ratter is no longer relied on as a working ratter in most homes, although many still show a strong instinct to chase mice and small pests if they get the chance. Instead, the breed is primarily a beloved companion, valued for its affectionate nature, intelligence and compact size that fits well into modern city living. In some countries, Prague Ratters can also be seen in dog sports such as agility, obedience or trick competitions, where their lively character and quick learning stand out.

Breed clubs in the Czech Republic, France, Scandinavia and other regions now work together to maintain and promote the Prague Ratter. The focus is on preserving its historic charm and usefulness as a small, alert and loving family dog, while ensuring solid health and stable temperament. For people who appreciate a breed with deep local roots and a story that connects royal courts, city alleys and modern apartments, the Prague Ratter carries a rich and fascinating heritage in a very tiny body.

## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Prague Ratter is often described as having a tiny shadow with a huge personality. This breed thrives on being close to their people and is best suited to owners who enjoy a dog that wants to be involved in daily routines rather than lying quietly in a corner. If you like a dog that sits on your lap while you work, curls up under the blanket in the evening and greets you joyfully after even short absences, the Prague Ratter can be a wonderful match.

Prospective owners should be prepared for a relatively high level of emotional commitment. These dogs form strong attachments and can be sensitive to changes in routine, raised voices or family tension. They do best in homes where they are treated as a true family member and where someone is usually present for much of the day. A Prague Ratter left alone regularly for long hours may develop barking, destructive behavior or anxiety.

From a practical point of view, their small size is both an advantage and a responsibility. On one hand, they fit easily into small apartments, and many landlords who accept dogs are more open to such a tiny breed. Daily exercise is relatively easy to provide, since shorter walks and indoor play can already meet a large part of their needs. On the other hand, owners must always be aware of physical risks, such as being stepped on, caught in a door, or injured by larger animals. Simple habits like checking where the dog is before moving a chair or closing a door become second nature.

Financially, annual costs for a Prague Ratter are often lower than for large dogs, particularly when it comes to food and some medications that depend on weight. However, there are still important expenses to consider:

- Purchase price from a responsible breeder  
- Vaccinations, routine veterinary checks and parasite control  
- Sterilization or castration if not used for breeding  
- Pet insurance or a savings fund for unexpected veterinary bills  
- Quality food, treats and dental care products  
- Equipment such as harnesses, collars, leashes, coats and bedding  

Because of the potential for dental and orthopedic issues, choosing a good pet insurance policy or setting aside money regularly for veterinary care is wise. Over the course of their life, preventive care, dental work and occasional testing can add up, even for a small dog.

Useful equipment for living with a Prague Ratter includes a comfortable, well fitting harness that does not rub under the arms; a lightweight leash; and a selection of soft, appropriately sized toys. Many owners find that puzzle feeders and treat balls help keep their dog mentally busy, especially on days when outdoor activity is limited. Several soft beds or blankets around the home allow the dog to rest near different family members. Warm coats and sweaters for winter, along with a rain jacket for wet weather, are more than a fashion choice for this breed, as they genuinely support their comfort and health.

Training should continue throughout the dog’s life, not just during puppyhood. Short daily sessions, even of only five minutes, keep their mind engaged and reinforce good manners. Basic house rules such as where the dog is allowed to go, how they greet visitors, and how they behave at mealtimes should be clear and consistent. Many behavior issues in small dogs arise simply because boundaries were never clearly set.

For families who understand toy breed needs and are willing to adapt their home and habits slightly, the Prague Ratter offers an enormous amount of joy in a very small package. Their combination of devotion, playfulness and intelligence makes them a rewarding companion for people across different ages, from active singles to older adults who want a dog that can participate fully in daily life without demanding extreme exercise. With care, patience and love, living with a Prague Ratter can feel like sharing your world with a brave and loyal little friend who never stops trying to be by your side.

Prague Ratter

Verein für Deutsche Spitze

Dansk Kennel Klub

Svenska Kennelklubben

Club Français des Rats de Prague

The Prague Ratter is a tiny Czech companion once used for ratting, lively and athletic despite its size. It has a short, low‑maintenance coat but feels the cold. Very affectionate and people‑oriented, it’s an alert little watchdog that bonds closely with its family.

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