## Quick Facts

- The Samoyed is a medium-sized Arctic spitz from northern Russia and Siberia. It is still built and temperamentally suited to an active life of sustained work.
- The breed standard defines its purpose as a sled and companion dog. This is therefore not simply a white family pet, but a working polar breed that needs to use its body.
- An adult male weighs about 20–25 kg and a female 16–20 kg. The ideal height is 57 cm for males and 53 cm for females, with a tolerance of three centimetres either way.
- The abundant double coat sheds heavily. Regular grooming, with extra work during a moult, is part of everyday ownership.
- The typical temperament is friendly, open, alert and lively. The breed is also independent, and prey interest, responsiveness and noise can vary considerably between individuals and lines.
- The Samoyed is best suited to someone who wants an active life throughout the year and has time for training, coat care and a dog that takes part in daily life.

## Appearance & Coat

The Samoyed should be an agile, enduring Arctic spitz, athletic rather than heavy. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, the ears are erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is alert. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 57 cm for males and 53 cm for females, in both cases with a tolerance of three centimetres. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs 20–25 kg and a female 16–20 kg.

The so-called “Samoyed smile” comes from the almond-shaped eyes and slightly upturned corners of the mouth. It describes the breed’s expression; it does not promise a particular personality, nor is it a documented mechanism for preventing drool or ice.

The coat has a short, soft, dense undercoat and longer, straighter, coarser guard hairs. Males often have a more pronounced ruff, while a female’s coat is often slightly shorter and softer. Permitted colours are pure white, cream, and white with a small amount of biscuit marking.

Let the condition of the coat determine the grooming routine instead of following a rigid weekly timetable. Work through it to the skin, paying particular attention to places where moisture and loose hair can remain trapped. Grooming needs to be more frequent and thorough during a moult. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it and dry the entire coat properly afterwards so that moisture is not left next to the skin. The coat should not normally be clipped or shaved to make routine care easier; discuss any medically necessary clipping with a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Samoyed is friendly, outgoing with people, alert and lively. The breed standard describes it as highly social and unsuitable as a guard dog. This does not mean that every dog greets people in the same way or that the breed name guarantees confidence in every setting. Breeding, early experiences, training and the individual dog’s disposition all matter.

Swedish breeding goals call for dogs that are approachable, outgoing and at ease with both people and other dogs. BPH behaviour-assessment results from 2015–2025 broadly follow that desired profile. They do not, however, predict how an individual puppy will develop. Look at the parents and close relatives in ordinary life rather than relying only on a breed description or an average.

Independence is part of the way this breed works. A Samoyed should be able to take initiative, remain focused on a physical task and work without being excessively dependent on its handler. In daily life, the same traits can appear as persistence, ideas of its own and a dog that does not always choose to follow you. Training is easier when the task is clear, the reward is worthwhile and repetition is kept purposeful.

Prey interest must also be assessed dog by dog. The breed standard describes the hunting instinct as only weakly developed, while the Swedish Kennel Club’s current buyer guidance warns that a strong hunting instinct may still occur. Do not assume that a Samoyed will be safe off lead simply because of its breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Samoyed needs regular physical activity and generally thrives when some of it has a clear purpose. Work in harness, hiking, carrying a pack and other endurance activities are close to the breed’s intended function. Scent work, everyday training and problem-solving add variety, but they do not replace the opportunity to move and work physically.

As a common starting point for an adult, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests at least an hour’s walk every day plus physical training three or four times a week. Treat this as a guide, not an exact dose. Age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and intensity determine what is appropriate. Puppies and adolescents should build muscle and workload gradually rather than follow an adult dog’s programme.

The dog can learn two separate rules: to lean into the working harness and pull on cue, and to walk on a loose everyday lead. Use equipment made for the activity, teach clear starting cues and increase distance, speed and load gradually. An official polar-dog working merit shows that the dog has completed defined work under the test conditions. It provides useful evidence of function, but it does not prove that the dog is free from joint disease, heart disease or fear in ordinary life.

In warm weather, adjust the workload to the conditions and to that individual dog’s response. Schedule harder sessions for cooler parts of the day, choose a suitable surface, provide water and stop if the dog is not recovering normally. A universal temperature cut-off is misleading because humidity, sun, speed, fitness and the individual dog all affect heat load.

Start recall training early, but never overestimate it. A long line or enclosed space gives the dog room to move when the surroundings are too difficult for safe off-lead exercise. This is particularly important if the dog shows prey interest or is inclined to choose its own route.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, or HD, occurs in the Samoyed. In the breed’s new Swedish breeding strategy, about 20–25 per cent of screened dogs born from 2019 to 2024 received C, D or E results. The figure applies to examined dogs and cannot simply be treated as the rate in the whole population, but hip results are well worth checking when choosing a puppy.

For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official HD result before mating. The Samoyed is also covered by the Swedish HD index scheme: an average parental index above 100 is recommended, and dogs with D or E results may not be used for breeding. The position is therefore more nuanced than the claim that only A- and B-graded dogs can be included in a mating. Check both parents’ results, their index at the time of mating, and results among siblings and previous offspring in SKK Avelsdata.

The breed club also recommends an eye examination from 18 months of age, with no abnormality or only a finding classed as non-hereditary. The current breeding strategy shows that only a small proportion of Samoyeds were eye examined in 2021–2024. Ask for the actual registered result rather than accepting a general assurance that the line has good eye health.

Diabetes mellitus also deserves attention. A large Swedish insurance study and later Norwegian research both placed the Samoyed among the breeds at highest risk. These studies describe risk at breed level and cannot predict whether a particular puppy will become ill. Ask about diagnoses in close relatives and discuss changes in the dog’s health promptly with a vet.

## History & Origins

The Samoyed comes from northern Russia and Siberia and takes its name from the Samoyedic peoples. In different areas, the dogs were used for hunting, hauling and, later, reindeer herding. They lived closely with people and, according to the breed standard, also helped keep them warm inside their shelters. The modern breed’s official purposes are sled work and companionship.

The small number of dogs brought from Siberia to Western Europe, together with dogs acquired by research expeditions, became the foundation of the Western population. The first Samoyed was registered by the Swedish Kennel Club in 1893. A Swedish-Norwegian standard for the Nordic spitz was published in 1908, and the first English Samoyed breed standard was written in 1909.

This history explains why modern breeding is about more than a white coat and a friendly expression. The Swedish Polar Dog Club works to preserve the breed’s polar traits and practical ability as a sled dog. Anyone choosing a Samoyed should therefore be interested in its function, not only its appearance.

## Living with the Breed

A Samoyed can live in a flat if its needs are properly met outside the home. The size of the property matters less than access to daily activity, recovery and regular time outdoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, find out how vocal the puppy’s close relatives are at home and work on calm behaviour early, because a noisy individual can quickly affect neighbours.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short, calm absences once the puppy feels secure in the home, and increase them only when it can settle. Some dogs learn quickly; others need much more time. Do not plan a puppy purchase on the assumption that your Samoyed will automatically cope with being left for a full working day.

The same safety principles apply with children as with any dog: an adult should be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The breed’s social ideal is encouraging, but a breed label is no substitute for supervision and respectful handling. Take the same care with cats and other animals. Ask how the parents behave, manage introductions carefully, and base decisions on the individual dog’s prey interest and previous experience.

The coat makes its presence felt in daily life. You need to accept loose hair, set aside time for grooming and be able to dry a wet coat thoroughly. The Samoyed is not allergy-free: dog allergens are found mainly in saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should not make a decision based on claims about a white coat, little odour or low shedding.

Check the evidence behind a breeder’s general claims of quality. Look up the parents’ HD status and current index, eye results, BPH assessments and any working merits. Ask how close relatives have performed in harness, behaved around other dogs, settled at home, coped with time alone and managed in warm conditions. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how to groom an adult coat. A working merit records tested function, BPH records observed responses, and health registers show known results. Together they provide a better basis for a decision, but no single record guarantees how a puppy will turn out.

Samoyed

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Svenska Polarhundklubben (Swedish Polar Dog Club)

Deutscher Club für Nordische Hunde e.V.

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium, strong Arctic spitz bred by the Samoyede people to herd reindeer, pull sleds, and share family tents. Noted for its “Samoyed smile” and heavy, low‑odor double coat. Social, energetic, vocal, and intelligent, it needs close companionship, firm positive training, and ample exercise.

Furbulous Collection

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

En familjär kennel där vi började med huskys men senare gick över till Pomeranian

Mellosch

## Quick Facts

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a large, athletic dog from southern Africa, best known for the strip of hair along its back that grows in the opposite direction from the rest of the coat. The breed is best suited to someone who has plenty of time for physical activity and training, and who can manage an independent dog with a background in hunting and guarding.

- **Origin:** southern Africa. South Africa and Zimbabwe are responsible for the breed standard.
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 6, scent hounds and related breeds.
- **Height at the withers:** the desirable range is 63–69 cm for males and 61–66 cm for females.
- **Desirable weight:** approximately 36.5 kg for males and 32 kg for females under the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and smooth, ranging from light wheaten to red wheaten.
- **Temperament:** the breed ideal is dignified and intelligent, with some reserve towards strangers but without aggression or fearfulness.
- **Activity level:** high. A Rhodesian Ridgeback needs varied exercise, mental challenges and time to settle.

A breed description is not a promise about an individual dog. Parents, close relatives, upbringing and training will tell you more about the puppy in front of you.

## Appearance & Coat

A Rhodesian Ridgeback should be powerful and muscular while remaining agile and balanced, never heavy or cumbersome. The standard gives 63–69 cm and about 36.5 kg as desirable for males, and 61–66 cm and about 32 kg for females. These are breed ideals, not a guarantee of every adult dog's eventual weight.

The ridge is the breed's defining feature. It should begin behind the shoulders, taper towards the hip bones and be symmetrical. The standard requires two matching whorls, known as crowns, placed opposite one another. The wrong number of crowns is a conformation fault, and absence of the ridge is a disqualifying fault in conformation judging. This does not determine how the dog will cope with everyday life. The appearance of the ridge and examination for dermoid sinus are separate matters.

The coat should be short, dense, smooth and glossy, neither woolly nor silky. Colour ranges from light wheaten to red wheaten. A little white on the chest and toes is allowed, as are a dark muzzle and ears, while extensive white and excessive black hair are undesirable. The nose may be black or brown, and the eyes should harmonise with the coat and nose colour.

This short coat does not require specialist grooming. Brush and bathe as needed, keep the nails at a comfortable length and check the skin, ears and paws. Adapt care to the individual dog and its daily routine rather than following a rigid weekly schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Rhodesian Ridgeback is independent, alert and reserved with people it does not know. Reserve means the dog may prefer to stand back; it is not the same as fear. The breed standard does not consider either shyness or aggression desirable, while the breed club's behavioural material shows that social confidence, reactions and recovery vary between individuals.

The breed has a background in both hunting and guarding. Hunting interest, vigilance and independent decisions may therefore be evident in daily life, although their intensity differs from dog to dog. A dog that notices visitors is not automatically a reliable guard dog, and being quiet during a behavioural assessment does not guarantee a quiet dog at home.

The Swedish BPH behavioural assessment can provide useful information about how a dog reacts in a defined test situation. It is a description, not an examination that the dog passes or fails. Read the full result in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata, paying particular attention to social confidence, fear and recovery. Ask to meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives as well. Their behaviour in ordinary situations provides better evidence than labels such as “family-friendly” or “stable” in an advert.

A Rhodesian Ridgeback can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is not a safety guarantee. An adult should always supervise interactions, and the dog must be allowed to eat, sleep and withdraw without being disturbed. Choose the individual dog and breeder to suit your actual family circumstances rather than relying on a general label.

## Training & Exercise

A Rhodesian Ridgeback needs a great deal of physical and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A sound routine includes walks through varied environments, opportunities to move more freely in secure places, scent work and tasks that involve cooperation, followed by time to settle.

Tracking, search exercises and other scent-based activities make constructive use of the breed's abilities. Strength, speed and stamina should be developed gradually, especially in a growing youngster. Adjust the load to the dog's body, the surface and its recovery rather than following a simple age formula.

Independence does not make the breed untrainable, but it does make motivation and clarity important. Reward-based, varied sessions are more effective than long repetitions or harsh confrontation. Start engagement, loose-lead work and recall training early. If the dog is inclined to pursue wildlife, use a long line or a securely fenced area until the training remains reliable in the presence of distractions.

Introduce the puppy to people, dogs, places and sounds at a pace that still allows it to engage with you and recover. The goal is not to greet everyone, but to feel secure in everyday situations.

## Health

Before buying a puppy, official hip and elbow results and a documented examination of the puppy for dermoid sinus are key checks. Match every result to the identity of the dog, and distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules and the breed club's stricter conditions for its puppy-referral service.

For a Rhodesian Ridgeback litter to be registered, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed also has a specific requirement for official elbow dysplasia status. Nordic breeding dogs covered by the rule must not be bred from if they have ED grade 2 or 3, or clinically diagnosed or surgically treated elbow dysplasia. A known result is not automatically a good result, so read the grade itself and ask how the mating was planned.

The puppy-referral criteria of the Swedish Rhodesian Ridgeback Club go beyond these basic requirements. They include conditions relating to parental age, hip grades and pairings, ED grade 0 and behavioural documentation for certain dogs. If a litter is advertised through the referral service, check what that meant for the particular mating. If it is not listed, ask which condition was not met; the label alone does not reveal the entire health picture.

Dermoid sinus, commonly shortened to DS, is a congenital developmental abnormality in which the skin and underlying tissue do not separate completely during foetal development. It can form a tract of varying depth. Puppies should therefore be examined carefully by someone with appropriate experience, and buyers should be told who performed the check and what was recorded.

Research has linked the genetic change that produces the ridge with a higher risk of DS, but a ridge test is not a diagnostic test for dermoid sinus. The breed club stresses that the complete genetic cause of DS has not been established and advises against a newer commercial risk test that lacks published validation. A visibly correct ridge can therefore never replace a physical examination of the puppy.

DNA tests for conditions such as juvenile myoclonic epilepsy, JME, and degenerative myelopathy, DM, should not be treated as a compulsory standard panel for every Swedish mating. The breed club recommends assessment based on relationships and known results. Ask the breeder why a particular test was chosen, which dog the result belongs to and how it influenced the mating. That is more informative than an unspecified claim that the dogs are “DNA tested”.

Keep the dog at a healthy, functional body condition as well. Monitor weight, waistline, how easily you can feel the ribs and stamina over time. Let a vet assess changes or symptoms rather than drawing conclusions from a generic list of diseases.

## History & Origins

The Rhodesian Ridgeback was developed in southern Africa and is the only internationally recognised dog breed to originate there. In the Cape Colony, the dogs of early settlers were crossed with local, semi-domesticated ridge-bearing hunting dogs. The official history does not provide a definitive list of every European breed behind the modern dog, so precise recipes are speculative.

The breed's original work led to the name “lion dog”, but that description needs context. The dogs were expected to track game, especially lion, and use their agility to hold it at bay from a distance until the hunter arrived. They often worked in pairs or groups of three; their role was not to kill a lion on their own.

F.R. Barnes drew up the first breed standard in Bulawayo, in what was then Rhodesia, in 1922, using the Dalmatian standard as a model. It was recognised by the South African kennel organisation in 1926. The current standard is maintained by South Africa and Zimbabwe and still describes a fast, functional dog with stamina rather than a heavy-bodied one.

## Living with the Breed

A Rhodesian Ridgeback is best suited to a home that can provide close company, daily activity, consistent training and clear opportunities to rest. The size of the home does not determine suitability on its own. Flat living can work if the dog's needs are met outside and it can relax indoors; a large garden replaces neither walks, scent work nor cooperation with its owner.

Time alone must be introduced gradually, without leaving a puppy before it is ready. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. There is no breed-based hourly limit that suits every adult. Plan around the dog you actually have and arrange help if it shows distress, vocalisation, destructive behaviour or difficulty settling.

Whether a Rhodesian Ridgeback can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction. Keep initial meetings controlled, give each animal a separate safe space and prevent chasing. A puppy raised with a cat may develop good habits, but that does not predict with certainty how it will react to unfamiliar small animals outdoors.

Before buying, the following checks are more valuable than general promises:

- verify the parents' identities and official HD and ED results in SKK Avelsdata;
- ask whether the litter meets the breed club's puppy-referral conditions and what any exceptions mean;
- request documentation of the puppy's dermoid sinus examination;
- read the BPH results of parents and close relatives as descriptions, not scores;
- ask why any DNA tests were performed and how the results affected the mating;
- meet adult relatives and assess confidence, recovery, hunting interest and the ability to settle in daily life;
- be honest about the time you have for training, exercise, daytime care and gradual alone-time training.

The right dog should not merely conform to the breed standard. It should come from parents with well-documented health and have traits that suit the life you can offer.

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Verein für Deutsche Doggen (Germany)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Great Britain

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a powerful, athletic African hunting dog with a distinctive ridge of reverse-growing hair. Loyal and affectionate with family but reserved with strangers, it needs ample daily exercise, consistent positive training, and suits active, experienced owners.

En liten familjär kennel mitt i Skåne som föder upp en kull med några års mellanrum. För oss är det viktigt med att hinna utvärdera hälsa och mentalitet mellan våra kullar.

Vackra Vilda

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

Puppies paradise

## Quick Facts

The Miniature American Shepherd is a small, athletic herding dog and a distinct, internationally recognized breed—not simply an informal name for a small Australian Shepherd. Although the breed was developed from small Australian Shepherds in the United States, it now has its own breed standard and is registered separately.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; developed as a farm, herding and companion dog.
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattle Dogs.
- **Height at the withers:** males 35.5–46 cm and females 33–43.5 cm.
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no fixed range. A healthy weight depends on the dog's height, sex and build.
- **Coat:** a medium-length double coat that may be straight or wavy.
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for physical activity, mental work and recovery.

This is a compact dog, but not an easy shortcut to herding-dog traits in a smaller package. The breed is best suited to someone who wants to train, spend time outdoors and also teach the dog to settle. It can work for a first-time owner who has the time, patience and interest in reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone mainly looking for an uncomplicated dog with low demands for activity and everyday training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature American Shepherd should be well balanced, agile and strong without looking heavy or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than tall. There is a clear size difference across the permitted heights, which is why a single weight range is misleading. Assess body condition, proportions and muscle with a veterinarian rather than comparing every dog with one number for the whole breed.

The coat consists of weather-resistant outer hair and an undercoat whose amount can vary by season and climate. Regular thorough combing is often enough for routine care, but loose undercoat needs more attention during shedding. Bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. The coat should generally be left natural; extensive shaping is not part of normal grooming for the breed.

Accepted base colors are black, red, blue merle and red merle, with or without tan points and white. White may occur in defined areas but should not dominate the head or body. Eyes may be brown, blue, hazel or amber, and a dog may have eyes of different colors or more than one color in the same eye. An unusual eye color is a permitted variation in appearance, not evidence by itself of vision, health or temperament.

The tail may be long or naturally short, known as a natural bobtail, NBT. A short tail is therefore not automatically docked. Docking is prohibited in Sweden, and a Swedish buyer should distinguish a natural bobtail from a surgically shortened tail on an imported dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Miniature American Shepherd as intelligent, biddable, adaptable and loyal, with herding and guarding instincts. It is often alert to its surroundings and quick to react. This can produce excellent responsiveness in training, but also a dog that notices movement, sounds and changes its owner barely registers.

The breed may be reserved with strangers. Reserve means that the dog may wait and observe without seeking contact; it is not the same as being shy, fearful or threatening. Forced greetings rarely make a reserved dog more confident. Instead, give it space, let it observe and reward calm initiatives of its own.

Swedish BPH behavioral-assessment data shows above all that variation within the breed is considerable. Some dogs greet readily, others show little interest, and reactions to surprises, noise and uncertainty differ between individuals. BPH describes the dog's reactions on that day and does not issue a pass or fail. When choosing a puppy, the behavior, recovery and everyday function of the parents and close relatives are therefore more informative than a single label such as “typical temperament.”

The breed's close attention to its family should not be romanticized into a claim that every individual is automatically confident, sociable and easy-going. Ask the breeder how the adult dogs manage visitors, new environments, handling, sounds and quiet inactivity. Request concrete examples and consider any BPH results in context.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature American Shepherd needs an active life, but there is no fixed schedule that suits every individual. A good routine includes walks and free movement where safe, scent work or problem-solving, short training sessions and genuine rest. The dog's age, fitness, health and ability to recover should determine the workload.

Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework, obedience, search work, herding and trick training are examples of suitable activities. No particular sport is compulsory. What matters is that the dog uses both body and mind without every day escalating to a higher level of intensity. If the dog still struggles to settle after activity, clearer pauses and better-adjusted training may be the answer—not automatically more exercise.

Reward-based training with clear criteria suits a quick and responsive dog. Start early with engagement, recall, leash skills, handling and waiting calmly. Also train the skills that are easily forgotten: lying quietly while the family eats, disengaging from a task, watching people or dogs pass without intervening, and returning to calm after play.

In daily life, herding and guarding behaviors may appear as following movement, trying to control running or sounding the alarm when something happens. This does not mean that every dog chases children, herds cats or barks a great deal. Observe what triggers the individual dog and teach alternative behaviors before a pattern becomes a habit. Puppies need short, positive experiences and age-appropriate movement; they should not be exercised like fully grown dogs.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, occurs in the Miniature American Shepherd, but the Swedish population is young and evidence for reliable frequency estimates for several other conditions is limited. Insurance coding, small datasets and the low average age of the dogs have made older summaries difficult to interpret. A long list of possible diagnoses therefore says less than verified results from the puppy's parents and close relatives.

It is important to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration rules from the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Miniature American Shepherd has no special breed-specific health program marked as a registration condition in the Swedish Kennel Club's current registration rules. The Swedish Miniature American Shepherd Club does, however, recommend that before mating both parents have:

- an HD result of A or B and an ED result of 0
- a clear eye examination no more than 18 months old
- known prcd-PRA status, with a carrier bred only to a genetically clear dog
- known NAD status, using a clear-to-clear or clear-to-carrier combination.

Ask to see the actual result, examination date and how the parents' results are combined. The word “health tested” is not enough. A DNA test can answer only for the variant it targets and does not replace a clinical eye examination.

MDR1, also known as ABCB1, is a gene variant that can affect how the dog handles certain medicines. If the dog has been tested, keep the result and show it to the treating veterinarian. Medication choice and dosage should never be decided from general online breed advice.

Merle must not be bred to merle because the combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle allele and an increased risk of serious sight and hearing problems; such a mating conflicts with Swedish Kennel Club basic rules. A natural bobtail is associated with the NBT trait. The breed club urges caution with NBT-to-NBT combinations while the issue continues to be monitored, which should not be confused with the explicit prohibition of merle-to-merle matings.

## History & Origins

The Miniature American Shepherd was developed in California in the late 1960s by breeding small Australian Shepherds. The aim was a smaller, enduring herding dog that could work sheep and goats, among other livestock, while fitting into a mobile ranch and equestrian life. From 1980 the name Miniature Australian Shepherd was used in registration before the breed later received its current name.

The American breed club was formed in 1990, and the breed entered the American Kennel Club's development registry in 2011. Full American recognition followed in 2015, and the FCI recognized the breed in 2019. The first Swedish litter was born in 2006, while Swedish registration as Miniature American Shepherd began in 2017.

Sweden also has a controlled crossbreeding program in which Australian Shepherds may be used under Swedish Kennel Club registration rules and the offspring are registered as Miniature American Shepherds. This does not alter the dogs' status as members of the recognized breed; the program is a regulated breeding tool. For a buyer, it makes the pedigree and the breeder's aims especially relevant, because traits and size can vary even within the breed standard.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature American Shepherd can live well in either a house or an apartment. The size of the home matters less than how daily life works: the dog needs to get outside, use its senses, train and be able to rest without constantly monitoring the stairwell, windows or garden. A garden can be convenient but does not replace shared activity or environmental training.

With children, adult supervision, clear rules and a resting place where the dog is left undisturbed are essential. Running and loud noise can attract the attention of a herding dog that is sensitive to movement, so calm interactions and breaks before the dog becomes over-aroused matter more than assuming the breed is “good with children.” Children should never be responsible for reading or handling a dog under pressure.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction. Let meetings happen gradually and under control, give the cat escape routes and its own resources, and interrupt fixation or chasing early. The breed comes with no guarantee of compatibility, but its herding background does not make problems inevitable either.

Alone-time training should progress gradually when the dog feels safe, has been exercised and is ready to rest. Start with very short periods and watch how that particular dog responds; prolonged barking, pacing or an inability to eat and rest indicate that training has progressed too quickly. A closed crate may not be used as routine confinement or as a solution to separation problems in Swedish homes.

Before buying a puppy, check more than registration and color. Ask to see the parents' health results and dates, ask about MDR1 and other relevant DNA results, examine temperament and recovery in the family, and discuss how the breeder prioritizes working drive, noise reactions, reserve and the ability to settle. A responsible match is about the kind of daily life the dog was bred and raised for—not just finding the right appearance.

Miniature American Shepherd

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Compact, athletic herding dog bred in the U.S. as a smaller Australian Shepherd. Intelligent, devoted, and “velcro” with family, often reserved with strangers. Needs regular training, mental work, and exercise. Medium double coat in varied colors; generally healthy with 12–15 year lifespan.

Labolina's

## Quick Facts

The Bostonterrier is a small American companion dog whose breed standard calls for a friendly, lively and intelligent temperament. It is often sociable and keen to take part, but its short muzzle makes breathing and temperature regulation important points to check, both when choosing a puppy and when planning daily exercise.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Size:** The breed standard has three weight classes: under 6.8 kg, 6.8–9 kg and 9–11.3 kg. It gives no official height at the withers.
- **Coat:** Short, smooth and easy to care for.
- **Activity:** A lively dog that needs physical and mental activity every day, with the amount adjusted to the individual dog's breathing, age, fitness and the weather.
- **Before buying:** Ask to see both parents' respiratory assessment, eye examination and patella results, together with their DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bostonterrier should be compact, well balanced and free-moving, without exaggeration in any feature. The head is short, but under the breed standard the muzzle must be no longer than one third of the length of the skull. The nostrils should be open, the eyes should not be excessively prominent and the short tail should be natural from birth.

Accepted colours are brindle, seal or black with white markings. The white markings are an important part of the breed's appearance, but colour and symmetry say nothing about health. Function matters more: the dog should be able to breathe freely, move without restriction and close its eyelids properly.

The short, close coat generally needs little work. Brush and bathe as required, and check the nails, teeth, ears and eyes regularly.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bostonterrier should be friendly, lively and intelligent, and many individuals actively seek human company and want to be involved in daily life. Even so, this does not guarantee that every dog will be comfortable with children, unfamiliar dogs or new environments.

Genetics, early experience, health and training all shape the individual dog. Ask the breeder how the parents behave in ordinary life: how they recover after something unexpected, greet people, cope with other dogs and settle at home. If possible, meet the dam and watch her in a normal situation, rather than only when the puppies are excited.

The breed can be both playful and focused. Reward-based training with clear breaks is usually more suitable than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Teach calm behaviour, comfortable handling around the eyes and paws, recall, and the ability to wait without becoming overexcited from an early age.

## Training & Exercise

A Bostonterrier needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no safe number of minutes that suits every dog. Combine walks with scent work, short training sessions, play and quiet recovery. A healthy dog with good respiratory function may enjoy a range of dog sports, while a dog that develops noisy or laboured breathing needs a veterinary assessment and adapted activity.

Judge exercise by how the dog breathes and recovers, not by how keen it is to carry on. Stop and move the dog to a cool place if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, if it slows down, struggles to recover or seems unusually hot. Bluish mucous membranes, weakness, collapse or marked breathing difficulty require emergency veterinary care.

Short-muzzled dogs are particularly sensitive to heat because panting is less effective at cooling them. Exercise during the cooler parts of the day, offer water and avoid strenuous activity in hot or humid weather. Excess weight places more strain on the airways and joints, so monitor body condition rather than relying only on the number on the scales.

## Health

The main health checks for a Bostonterrier concern respiratory function, eye health, patella status and early-onset juvenile cataract. Ask for actual examination results for both parents; an energetic impression or quiet breathing during a brief meeting is not a substitute for documentation.

BOAS is an umbrella term for breathing problems that can occur when a short muzzle and the soft tissues in the nose and throat restrict airflow. Snoring should therefore not automatically be dismissed as a harmless breed trait. Look out for breathing noise at rest, laboured inhalation, poor stamina, prolonged recovery, disturbed sleep, heat intolerance or fainting.

The RFG Scheme is a standardised veterinary assessment of respiratory function. The dog is assessed before and after three minutes of brisk movement and receives a grade from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected; grades 2 and 3 indicate clinical impairment. Results from dogs aged at least 24 months are registered centrally, while results from younger dogs are recorded as preliminary.

Since May 2026, RFG results for Bostonterriers can be registered centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club, but the assessment is not currently mandatory before breeding for this breed. This should not be confused with the Swedish Kennel Club's general breeding recommendation, which gives first preference to grade 0, or with the breed club's conditions for listing a litter through its puppy referral service.

The eyes are relatively large and exposed. Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, keeps one eye closed, rubs it with a paw, or develops a red, watery or cloudy eye; eye pain is treated as an emergency. Early-onset juvenile cataract is a recessively inherited disease affecting both eyes and can cause blindness early in life. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, carries one copy of the disease variant or has inherited it from both parents. Mating two carriers can produce genetically affected puppies and should therefore be avoided.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of position, also occurs in the breed. When a litter is to be included in its puppy referral service, Svenska Bostonterrierklubben asks for details of the parents' latest eye examination, patella results and DNA test or evidence of clear-by-parentage status for juvenile cataract. This is valuable information for a buyer, but it should not be described as a binding registration requirement for every litter.

## History & Origins

The Bostonterrier was developed in and around Boston, Massachusetts, during the latter part of the nineteenth century. Purposeful breeding took shape roughly between 1870 and 1890, but the earliest crosses are not fully documented. The breed can therefore be described as having been developed from the bulldog and terrier types of the time, but no exact mixture can be stated with certainty.

The American Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1893. Over time, it developed from heavier predecessors into the smaller, elegant companion described by today's breed standard. The Bostonterrier is now an internationally recognised breed with the United States as its country of origin.

## Living with the Breed

A Bostonterrier can live successfully in a flat or a house, but the size of the home does not decide whether daily life will work. The dog needs physical and mental activity every day, an undisturbed place to rest, and practice settling when nothing is happening. Barking and sensitivity to noise vary between individuals; if quiet living matters, ask how the parents behave at home.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Start with very short, calm separations and increase the time only while the dog can settle. For dogs kept in Sweden, the Swedish Board of Agriculture states that dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings.

With children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the breed's reputation as a family dog. Children should not lift the dog, pull its ears or approach it while it is eating or sleeping. Introductions to cats and other dogs should be calm and controlled. Previous experience and the individual dog's behaviour carry more weight than the breed name.

Before buying, ask the breeder to show:

- both parents' RFG results and their ages when assessed;
- the latest eye examination and patella results;
- registered DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract and how it informed the mating;
- how close relatives fare in terms of breathing, eyes, knees and everyday temperament;
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different surfaces, people and ordinary household sounds.

This provides a better basis for a decision than promises that the breed is always easy, quiet or problem-free.

Bostonterrier

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Bostonterrier is a small, sturdy, people‑focused companion with a square build and short, tuxedo‑patterned coat. Cheerful, affectionate, and adaptable, it enjoys both play and relaxing with its family. Grooming is simple, but its short nose and prominent eyes need extra health care.

## Quick Facts

The Boxer is a sociable, energetic and physically powerful working breed that thrives when it can play an active part in family life. It suits someone who wants to devote time to shared exercise, training and play every day, and who enjoys an expressive dog with a strong desire for company and plenty of initiative.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Role:** Working, companion and guard dog
- **Size:** males 57–63 cm and around 30 kg; females 53–59 cm and around 25 kg
- **Coat:** very short, fawn or brindle with a black mask; white markings may occur
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for both physical exercise and purposeful tasks
- **Lifespan:** roughly 9–11 years is a broad guide

The important question is not whether you like the Boxer's appearance, but whether you want to live with a lively, powerful dog that needs guidance. In an active household, a Boxer can be a close, playful and willing companion. It is less suitable for someone looking for a low-energy, independent dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Boxer is a medium-sized, compact dog with a square outline, strong bone and clearly defined muscles. It should look athletic without appearing heavy or cumbersome. The distinctive head has a broad muzzle, a black mask and a natural undershot bite. The muzzle is short, but its proportions should be balanced and the nostrils open; an extremely short muzzle is not the aim.

Males usually stand 57–63 cm at the withers and weigh around 30 kg. Females stand 53–59 cm and weigh around 25 kg. That is enough dog for pulling on the lead, jumping up and unruly greetings to become difficult to manage if training is postponed.

The coat is short, hard, glossy and close-fitting. The base colour is fawn in various shades or brindle, always with a black mask. Small white markings may be present. Entirely or predominantly white dogs do occur, but white is not an accepted colour under the breed standard. When choosing a dog, health and temperament matter more than its markings.

Coat care is straightforward. Brush during periods of heavier shedding, bathe when needed and wipe the paws after wet walks. The short coat makes the skin easy to inspect, so check for redness, itching, sores and new lumps. Examine the ears, nails and teeth regularly too. Nails should be trimmed when they grow too long, and persistent skin or ear problems should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Boxer is sociable, alert, curious and playful. It seeks contact and likes to be wherever the family is, while retaining the watchfulness and confidence of a working dog. Many keep a youthful, physical style of play well into adulthood.

A Boxer can fit very well into an active family with children, but “good with children” is never a guarantee for an individual dog. The breed is strong, quick and often exuberant when excited. Small children can be knocked over accidentally, and play between a dog and a child should always be supervised by an adult. Teach calm greetings, settling on a bed or mat and ending a game from an early age.

Relationships with other dogs vary. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that aggression towards other dogs occurs within the breed, and encounters with other dogs are an everyday challenge for some Boxer owners. This does not mean that Boxers are generally unsociable. It does mean that controlled social training, lead handling and the ability to disengage from other dogs deserve serious attention. Match playmates to the individual and its style of play; a Boxer's physical play may be too intense for small or cautious dogs.

Some Boxers are open with strangers, while others are more reserved. Early, thoughtful socialisation gives the dog experience of people, places, surfaces and everyday sounds without turning every encounter into a greeting. The aim is a confident dog that can remain neutral when the situation calls for it.

## Training & Exercise

A Boxer needs to move and use its brain every day. Short toilet walks alone are not enough for a healthy adult, but the same time target will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, temperature, breathing and health should determine the workload. A good week includes a mix of walks in varied surroundings, free movement in a secure area, play and tasks such as tracking, search work, obedience or other dog sports.

Use reward-based methods. Reward the behaviour you want to see more often with food, play or social contact, and set up each exercise so the dog can succeed. Harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary. Short, focused sessions often suit a lively dog, but variety and a clear daily routine matter most.

Prioritise the skills that make a powerful dog easy to live with:

- walking on a loose lead
- returning when called and stopping play when asked
- passing dogs and people while paying attention to the handler
- greeting with all four paws on the ground
- leaving items and waiting at doors
- switching from activity to rest in a designated place

Lead walking, recall, encounters with other dogs and exuberant greetings were recurring challenges in the Swedish Boxer Club's 2025 owner survey. A puppy or adolescent training class can therefore provide useful help early on. Adapt exercise while the dog is growing and increase duration and intensity gradually instead of immediately taking a young dog running or cycling.

## Health

When choosing a Boxer and breeder, examine the health background carefully. Conditions found in the breed include hip dysplasia, spondylosis, renal dysplasia, knee problems in older dogs, and skin disease and allergies. Heart disease and tumours are also important areas in the breed's health programme. A Swedish study of insured dogs also found a markedly increased risk of mast cell tumours in Boxers.

The Boxer is short-muzzled, but not every Boxer has brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS. Even so, obvious breathing noise, laboured breathing, poor recovery or heat intolerance should not be dismissed as normal for the breed. The Boxer is included in special show guidance that draws attention to breathing, muzzle length and skin. Since May 2026, Boxers in Sweden have also been eligible for the standardised RFG-S breathing assessment. The test can provide more information about a dog's breathing, but it is not a general mandatory breeding requirement for the Boxer.

Ask a breeder to explain the results rather than simply saying that the parents have been “tested”:

- Check the parents' official hip dysplasia results and ask about the planned litter's HD index. The Swedish Boxer Club's strategy cites the Swedish Kennel Club recommendation that the estimated litter index should exceed 100.
- Review the parents' MH temperament assessment results and ask how close relatives behave in everyday life.
- Ask for a heart examination. The breed club recommends auscultation by a specialist or Doppler/ultrasound for both parents.
- Ask for spondylosis radiographs taken after 24 months of age, as recommended by the breed club.
- Ask whether RFG-S has been completed, and listen to the dogs' breathing yourself at rest and after light activity.
- Ask the breeder about cancer, kidney disease, skin problems, knees and longevity among close relatives.

Keep the dog lean and build fitness gradually. Seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, unusually increased thirst or urination, new or changing lumps, or clear breathing difficulty. Early checks cannot remove genetic risk, but they improve the chance of finding a problem promptly.

## History & Origins

The Boxer was developed in Germany from local dog types during the nineteenth century. Its closest documented ancestor is the Brabanter Bullenbeisser, a German bulldog type that worked with hunters. Its task was to seize and hold game driven towards it until the hunter arrived, which explains the importance of the broad muzzle and powerful jaws.

The modern Boxer became a versatile working, guard and companion dog. The first breed standard was published in 1902. The origin of the name Boxer has not been established with certainty, so the idea that it comes from the dog's use of its front paws in play should be treated as a story rather than documented fact.

The breed's background can still be seen in its enthusiasm for work, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate. A modern Boxer does not have to train in a particular discipline, but it benefits from regularly solving tasks alongside its handler.

## Living with the Breed

A Boxer can live in a flat, a terraced house or a detached house; the daily plan matters more than the amount of floor space. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, training and experience of different surroundings. Indoors, the dog needs to learn how to settle. Otherwise, the family may find themselves living with a large, highly aroused dog that continually invents its own activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that some Boxers struggle to be left alone, so arrange a dog sitter or other help if working days are long. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings. Six hours is the interval in that guidance, not an assurance that every Boxer is comfortable being alone for that long.

Plan around the weather too. The Boxer's short coat provides limited protection in cold conditions, while the short muzzle calls for extra care in heat. Dogs affected by BOAS may find it harder to regulate their body temperature. Schedule more strenuous activity for cooler parts of a hot day, provide water and shade, and stop if breathing or recovery differs from normal. In cold weather, watch how the dog moves, whether its coat is wet and whether it shows discomfort when deciding if a coat is needed.

The Boxer is best suited to a family that can answer yes to four questions: Do we want to give the dog purposeful activity every day? Can we teach calm behaviour and everyday manners consistently? Do we have a sustainable plan for time alone? Are we prepared to examine health and breathing as carefully as temperament and appearance? If the answer is yes, the breed's energy, humour and strong desire for contact can become its greatest strengths in daily life.

Boxer

The Boxer Club UK

Boxer Klub e.V. Germany

Svenska Boxerklubben (Swedish Boxer Club)

The Boxer is a medium‑large, athletic dog with a short coat and expressive, broad head. Lively, playful, and people‑oriented, it bonds closely with families and is often gentle with children. Energetic and protective, it needs consistent training, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Lilla lileos

## Quick Facts

The Standard Schnauzer is a medium-sized, active and watchful dog from Germany. This page concerns the medium-sized breed known in Swedish simply as Schnauzer. The name is not an umbrella term for the Miniature Schnauzer, Standard Schnauzer and Giant Schnauzer; these are three separate breeds with their own standards and partly different health concerns.

- The FCI places the Standard Schnauzer in Group 2 and lists Germany as its country of origin.
- The standard gives a height of 45–50 cm and a weight of 14–20 kg for both dogs and bitches.
- The body is strong, compact and approximately square.
- The recognised colours are pure black with black undercoat and pepper and salt.
- The coat is double, dense and wiry and needs regular combing and trimming.
- The breed ideal combines a lively temperament with thoughtful calm, playfulness, loyalty and vigilance.

The Standard Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and do things with their dog, while also teaching it to settle. A first-time owner can do well if daily life includes reward-based training, coat care and clear routines. The breed name cannot, however, guarantee how easy an individual dog will be. The behaviour of the parents and adult relatives is more informative.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Schnauzer is unmistakably medium-sized: 45–50 cm and 14–20 kg apply to both sexes. It should be more compact than slender, with height at the withers roughly equal to body length. The long head, beard and bushy eyebrows create the characteristic expression.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The topcoat should be wiry rather than soft, wavy or silky. A black Standard Schnauzer should be pure black, including the undercoat. Pepper and salt can range from dark iron grey to silver grey, but should have a harmonious dark mask. Clearly light markings on the head, chest or legs are undesirable under the standard.

Coat care is a regular part of life with the breed. As a practical guide, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests trimming about four times a year and combing at least weekly. Trimming removes old topcoat so that the wiry texture can be maintained. Owners who clip the coat still need to comb through the beard, eyebrows, belly and leg furnishings and prevent mats next to the skin. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how dogs from that particular line are groomed; a practical lesson is more useful than a generic timetable.

A well-kept, trimmed Standard Schnauzer often sheds little loose hair, but the breed is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin cells, saliva, urine and substances from the sebaceous glands, among other sources. Low shedding therefore cannot predict how an allergic person will react. Seek medical advice before buying a dog instead of relying on claims based on breed alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Standard Schnauzer should be lively, good-natured, playful and watchful while also capable of calm. It is often attentive to people, sounds and movement around the home. The breed's earlier work as a farm and guard dog is consequently more apparent in some individuals than in others.

The Swedish Kennel Club's current BPH analysis, produced after the breed passed 200 assessments, is particularly useful because it shows the variation behind the breed description. The dataset includes 284 Standard Schnauzers assessed through BPH, but only about 12 per cent of Swedish-born dogs born from 2010 to 2023 took part. The results therefore describe the participating dogs, not every member of the breed. The group includes dogs that do not greet a stranger and dogs that greet intensely. Interest in play also varies considerably. Few showed threatening behaviour towards a stranger, while responses varied more when a disguised person approached in an unusual way.

For a prospective puppy owner, the conclusion is practical: do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to see how they receive visitors, accept handling, recover after a surprise and move from activity to rest. Their BPH or MH records can also be useful, but BPH is a description, not a test with a pass or fail result.

The breed standard says that the Standard Schnauzer should be vigilant without being noisy. That is a breeding ideal, not a promise of silence. In a home where sound travels easily, reward calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows from the start, and teach the dog what to do after it has noticed a sound.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Schnauzer needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but its needs cannot be calculated with a fixed number of minutes. A good routine alternates walks, free movement in a secure place, scent work, everyday training, play and recovery. Judge the outcome: the dog should be able to work willingly, remain responsive to its handler and then settle, rather than becoming increasingly overstimulated.

Training should be positive, reward-based and progressive. Make the desired behaviour clear and adapt the reward to the individual; food, play and the opportunity to sniff vary in value from one dog to another. Short sessions can be useful when a young dog loses focus, but there is no universal time limit. Increase the difficulty only when the dog succeeds in the easier situation.

The breed's background as a rat catcher makes it sensible to take reactions to movement and an interest in chasing seriously. It does not mean that every Standard Schnauzer chases to the same degree or has a particular recall “score”. Practise recall with gradually stronger distractions and use a long line or enclosed area until you know how your dog responds to wildlife, cats, cyclists and runners. A safety measure is not a training failure.

Scent work, tracking, rally obedience and other co-operative activities can suit the breed well, but choose activities according to the dog's body, motivation and ability to recover. The aim is a sustainable routine, not to fill the diary with as many activities as possible.

## Health

The Standard Schnauzer is described as a broadly healthy breed, but a puppy buyer should pay particular attention to hips, diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's openness. The current Swedish breed strategy also monitors gastrointestinal problems, mammary and skin tumours, and claw injuries.

Hip dysplasia, or HD, has a complex background in which both heredity and environment play a part. A and B denote normal hips, C mild dysplasia, D moderate dysplasia and E severe dysplasia. A radiograph shows the shape of the joint, not automatically whether the dog is in pain. Even two dogs graded A or B can produce offspring with HD, particularly when other close relatives have poorer hips.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for a known hip score on the Standard Schnauzer. This should not be confused with the breed strategy's monitoring of HD and its aim to increase the number of screened dogs. Ask for the parents' official results and look at siblings and previous offspring as well. This gives you a broader basis for judging the results without misrepresenting a recommendation as a registration rule.

The health surveys underlying parts of the breed strategy received 121 and 303 responses respectively. They identify issues the breed club needs to monitor, but do not provide reliable odds for the whole population. Ask the breeder about diagnosed gastrointestinal disease, mammary or skin tumours and recurring claw injuries in the parents, siblings and previous litters. That is more relevant than a long list of eye, heart or DNA tests borrowed from the Miniature or Giant Schnauzer.

Temperament information is also part of the overall picture. A BPH result can provide an indication about a parent, but it should be considered alongside everyday behaviour, relatives and the breeder's objectives.

## History & Origins

The Standard Schnauzer developed in southern Germany as a robust farm and stable dog. It was at home around horses, watched over its surroundings and caught rats quickly, earning the dog type the popular name “Rattler”. When the Pinscher-Schnauzer club was founded in 1895, the breed was entered as the wire-haired Pinscher.

The Swedish breed strategy states that the word “Schnauzer” appeared in literature in 1842 and probably refers to the characteristic moustache. Names subsequently changed. In the Swedish stud book the breed was called the German wire-haired Pinscher in 1913, Schnauzer from 1928 and Medium Schnauzer from 1942. In 2003, the Swedish breed name returned to Schnauzer.

This is the securely documented core. There are further stories about the breed's past, but they are less well supported and are not needed to understand today's Standard Schnauzer.

## Living with the Breed

The Standard Schnauzer can live in a house or flat if it receives daily activity, rest and help in coping with its surroundings. In a flat, how easily sounds carry matters more than floor area: notice how the dog responds to the front door, lift and neighbours, and teach a calm alternative to continued alerting. Safe and straightforward access to walks makes everyday life considerably easier.

An adult must supervise interactions with children. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. A robust body does not oblige a dog to tolerate being clung to, interrupted sleep or rough play.

Time alone is introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a trained adult may manage a few hours. Increase the time according to the dog's behaviour and step back if it shows distress or cannot settle. A breed label cannot supply a safe time limit.

The same caution applies to other animals. The ratting background can make small, fast-moving animals difficult for some individuals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings short and always give the cat escape routes. How quickly the animals can have more freedom depends on how calm they are together, not how long they have lived under the same roof.

Before buying, it is particularly useful to check:

- that advice about size, health and daily life concerns the Standard Schnauzer rather than another schnauzer breed;
- the parents' registration numbers, official hip results and the health of close relatives;
- BPH or MH descriptions alongside the parents' everyday behaviour;
- how the breeder works with sociability, vigilance, recovery and co-operation;
- which grooming routine the puppy is used to and who can teach it to you;
- how gastrointestinal problems, tumours and claw injuries have been followed up in previous litters.

A good match is a home that appreciates an alert dog that enjoys working, has time for coat care and can balance activity with calm. Anyone seeking a dog guaranteed to be quiet, allergy-safe or uncomplicated should look beyond the Standard Schnauzer's handsome beard.

Standard Schnauzer

The Schnauzer Club of Great Britain

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Swedish Schnauzer Club)

Pinscher Schnauzer Klub (Germany)

Medium, robust farm‑bred dog with a wiry low‑shedding coat in pepper‑and‑salt or black. Intelligent, watchful and protective yet affectionate and playful. Needs daily exercise, mental work, early socialization and regular grooming; generally healthy and long‑lived.

Jag föder upp schnauzer med fokus på trygga, arbetsvilliga hundar som gillar samarbete och träning. 

Valparna får en stabil start med miljöträning, närhet och hantering. Som utbildad hundinstruktör finns jag här för dig från valp till senior – du får inte bara en valp, utan också mitt stöd genom hela hundens liv. 

Välkommen till Ekotuvans kennel – en liten kennel med stort engagemang!

Ekotuvan's

Uppfödning av rasen sedan 1992 - helt enkelt för att vi inte hittar någon bättre ras! 
År 2025 föddes valpkull nr 33.
Våra valpar hanteras hundlogiskt och får vara utomhus så mycket som möjligt, så att din valp får bästa tänkbara start i livet. 
Vi strävar efter att förvalta, bevara och förbättra denna fantastiska, friska ras.
Kennelns motto är "schnauzer p&s för show, skog och soffa!"

Pognos

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a distinct British breed, not a red-and-white variety of the English Springer Spaniel. Developed to flush and retrieve game, it is best suited to someone who wants to combine close family life with regular training and outdoor activity.

- The breed is medium-sized and compact; the approximate height at the withers is 48 cm for dogs and 46 cm for bitches.
- The breed standard permits only rich red and white. The coat should be straight or flat, silky and dense, with moderate feathering.
- A typical Welsh Springer Spaniel is friendly, cheerful, keen to work and active, although temperament varies between individuals.
- This breed needs more than walks around the block. Scent work, cooperation and opportunities to move through varied terrain are important parts of daily life.
- In Sweden, both parents must have an official hip-dysplasia result before mating for their puppies to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. A recorded result does not automatically mean clear hips.
- Life with children, other dogs and cats can work well, but the breed name is no guarantee. The individual dog, its upbringing, introductions and adult supervision all matter.

Above all, this is a breed for someone who enjoys doing things with their dog. A Welsh Springer must also learn to rest, wait and cope calmly with short periods alone; constant activity without the ability to settle does not create a balanced life.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a strong, symmetrical and agile spaniel built for sustained work. Its body is compact without being heavy, and its movement should be powerful and ground-covering. Males stand at about 48 cm at the withers and females at about 46 cm, but sound construction and overall function matter more than an individual dog matching the figure to the nearest centimetre.

The colour distinguishes the breed clearly from other spaniels: the standard allows only rich red and white. The coat should lie straight or flat against the body and be silky and dense. There is feathering on the legs, ears and tail, but it should be moderate. A very profuse, curly or easily matted coat is not the functional coat described by the standard.

Coat care is manageable at home, but it needs to become routine. Pay particular attention to:

- ears and feathering after woodland walks, swimming and outings in long grass
- armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where tangles can start
- paws and the hair between the pads, especially during wet or snowy periods
- skin and ears if the dog starts scratching, shaking its head or smelling unusual

Brush when the coat begins to hold loose hair or form tangles, and remove debris before it becomes embedded. Dry the ears and coat after swimming, but do not clean a healthy ear canal routinely when there is no need. The Swedish Kennel Club gives three to four trims a year as a broad guide, while the breed club stresses that the need varies between dogs. Let coat growth, grip under the paws and airflow around the ears determine the timing. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed calendar.

## Temperament & Personality

A Welsh Springer Spaniel should be friendly, cheerful and very active without being aggressive or nervous. As a working spaniel, it is expected to cooperate, remain in contact and switch between activity and calm. This can make the breed rewarding to train, but it does not make every Welsh Springer easy in every home.

Many Welsh Springers want to stay close to their people and take part in daily life. Some greet strangers readily, while others need time before seeking contact. Excessive fear, constant stress or an inability to settle should not be dismissed as typical of the breed. The breed club also notes that relatively few dogs have undergone formal behavioural assessments, so sweeping claims about the temperament of the entire breed would be misleading.

When meeting a breeder, look beyond the phrase ‘friendly family dog’. Ask to meet the dam in an ordinary setting, and ask how the parents, siblings and previous offspring respond to unfamiliar places, people, sounds, rest and time alone. A dog that recovers promptly after something unexpected and can settle again provides more useful information about daily life than titles or an enthusiastic first greeting alone.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. A young, enthusiastic Welsh Springer may greet people physically and carry objects in its mouth despite friendly intentions. Children should not disturb the dog while it is eating, sleeping or choosing to move away.

## Training & Exercise

A Welsh Springer Spaniel needs physical exercise, scent work and cooperation every day, but there is no authoritative number of hours that suits every dog. A sound plan gives the dog enough to do without leaving it over-aroused, sore or unable to recover.

The breed's original work explains its training needs. A spaniel searches the ground in front of the handler, flushes game to create a shooting opportunity and then retrieves. In everyday life, the same traits appear as interest in scent, movement and objects. Priorities should therefore include:

- recall and voluntary check-ins, beginning in easy surroundings and progressing to greater distractions
- a long line wherever the dog cannot yet be allowed off lead safely
- steadiness: waiting calmly when something moves or other dogs are working
- carrying objects and giving them up without conflict
- a clear cue for a break and a quiet place where the dog can settle

Vary walks with search games, tracking, retrieving or another task that uses both scent and cooperation. Agility, rally and obedience may also suit the individual. The aim is not to collect activities, but to find a mix in which the dog can work with concentration and then rest.

Puppies and adolescents need short sessions, free movement on suitable ground and a gradual increase in load. Do not try to tire them out with long, repetitive distances or frequent jumping. For an adult, adjust the amount to fitness, health, temperature and the previous day's activity. Stiffness, unusually slow recovery, restlessness after exercise or poorer sleep are signs that the routine needs changing.

## Health

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is regarded as a comparatively healthy breed, but a prospective owner should pay particular attention to hips and eyes and ask about skin and ear problems in close relatives. Health screening reduces uncertainty; it cannot guarantee that an individual dog will remain healthy.

In Sweden, the breed is covered by level 2 of the Swedish Kennel Club's hip-dysplasia programme. Both parents must have an official hip result before mating for the puppies to be eligible for registration. Ask to see the actual results and also enquire about siblings and previous offspring. ‘Hip scored’ says only that the examination was completed, not what result the dog received.

Eye health must be kept separate from the Swedish hip rule. Swedish registration rules do not require an eye result for this breed, but the Welsh Springer Spaniel breed club encourages gonioscopy for breeding dogs. The examination assesses the drainage angle of the eye and is used in work to reduce glaucoma, a serious eye disease that the breed club monitors particularly closely. Ask about current eye examination and gonioscopy results, findings in close relatives and how the breeder weighed those results when planning the mating.

The breed club's health survey also identifies ears, itching, skin and eyes as areas to watch. This does not mean that every Welsh Springer will be affected. Check the dog after swimming and outings in wet or dense cover, and seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, redness, unpleasant smell, head shaking, pain or changes in vision.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Springer Spaniel developed from red-and-white spaniels in Wales and was recognised as a distinct breed in Britain in 1902. Written references to red-and-white spaniels in Wales date back to the fourteenth century, but older origin stories should not be made more precise than the evidence allows.

The dogs were used chiefly for hunting. The word ‘springer’ refers to flushing game from cover, not to the breed being a variety of the English Springer Spaniel. The modern breed's work includes searching, flushing and retrieving in close cooperation with the handler.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1963, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1965. The Swedish Welsh Springer Spaniel Club was founded in 1980. Today the breed is used for hunting and tracking wounded game as well as being an active companion and sporting dog, but its working purpose remains the key to understanding its needs and behaviour.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Springer Spaniel can live in a house or flat if daily life provides enough activity, recovery time and access to good walking areas. A large garden does not replace shared training, and a flat is not a problem in itself. You do, however, need to plan for a wet coat, grit, seeds and muddy paws after an active life outdoors.

Teach the dog to be alone gradually, beginning with very short periods when it feels secure and has settled. A young puppy should not be left alone, and even a well-trained adult normally copes with only a few hours alone in a day. Swedish guidance that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day describes a toileting and exercise interval, not a target for time alone. Arrange help if workdays or travel keep you away longer than the dog can manage calmly.

The breed can live with other dogs, but choose companions and introductions according to the individuals involved. Greater care is needed with cats and small animals because a flushing dog may react to sudden movement. Early familiarisation can help, but do not base safety on the assumption that this is a ‘nice breed’. Use gates, separate resting areas and supervised meetings until you know how the animals behave together.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to obtain clear answers to these questions:

- What are the hip results of both parents and their close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations and gonioscopy, and what findings occur in the family?
- How do they cope with new places, people, rest and short periods alone?
- What hunting drive, responsiveness and ability to settle have previous offspring shown?
- What coat care and activities are part of the breeder's own dogs' daily lives?

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is best suited to someone who wants an active working partner rather than a dog content to tag along passively. If you can provide scent work, clear training, calm recovery and plenty of shared time, the breed's willingness to work can find a constructive place in family life.

Welsh Springer Spaniel

The Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of UK

Medium, athletic red-and-white spaniel from Wales, bred as a steady gundog. Affectionate, people-focused and often strongly bonded to one person. Needs substantial daily exercise, training and mental work. Sensitive, generally healthy, with a weatherproof coat that enjoys mud and water.

Heddychlon

## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Rock It Pops

Clumber Spaniel

Clumber Spaniel Club (UK)

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben (Sweden)

American Kennel Club - UK Extension (UK)

Sturdy, low and powerful, the Clumber Spaniel is a large, heavy spaniel with a dense white coat and lemon or orange markings. Calm, gentle and family oriented, it loves scent work and steady walks. It sheds and drools heavily and needs regular grooming, training and moderate exercise.

Haft rasen sedan 1991
Uppfödare sedan 2004

Mingla's kennel

Ohanastars

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Beritas

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Niktas fusion

Griffon Fauve de Bretagne

The British Kennel Club

Association Of L'Epagneul Breton (UK)

Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (Germany)

Medium-sized French scenthound with a rough golden to red-fawn coat, dark expressive eyes, and sturdy, athletic build. Bred for wild boar, it’s energetic, curious, social, and gentle at home, needing ample outdoor exercise, secure fencing, and regular but simple coat care.

Bocksjöns

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Hübinettans

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

## Quick Facts

The Papillon is a small, lively and quick-learning companion dog that often suits someone who wants to combine closeness with walks, training and everyday enrichment. The breed belongs to the Épagneul Nain Continental, or Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon has erect ears, while the Phalène variety has drop ears. In Sweden they are registered according to ear carriage, and a dog can be re-registered if its ears develop differently from the initial assessment.

- **Origin:** France and Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Height at the withers:** about 28 cm according to the breed standard
- **Weight:** the standard has two weight classes. The larger ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 kg for males and up to 5 kg for females. The other covers dogs under 2.5 kg, with 1.5 kg as the minimum weight.
- **Coat:** long, silky and without an undercoat
- **Activity level:** small in stature but often lively, willing to work and keen to learn
- **Longevity:** many reach an advanced age; according to the Swedish Kennel Club, 15 years is not unusual

Measurements in a breed standard describe an ideal, not a promise that every adult dog will be exactly that size. For a prospective owner, the parents’ size, the dog’s body condition and sound construction are therefore more useful than pursuing a particular figure or an extremely small individual.

## Appearance & Coat

The Papillon should be a harmoniously built toy dog that is graceful yet robust. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, light and elegant. Its small size calls for care around falls and play with much larger dogs, but the breed standard does not describe the Papillon as a fragile dog.

The large ears are the breed’s most distinctive feature. In the Papillon they stand erect and are carried obliquely outwards, resembling a butterfly’s wings. The Phalène instead has mobile drop ears. The difference is therefore ear carriage; both are varieties of the same Continental Toy Spaniel and can be born in the same litter.

The coat is single, without an undercoat, and should be abundant, glossy and slightly wavy rather than curly. It is short on the head and fronts of the legs but longer over the body, ears, chest, thighs and tail. White is the ground colour and must predominate on the body and legs. Coloured patches may be of different colours, while the lips, eye rims and nose should be well pigmented under the standard.

Coat care is usually manageable if tangles are prevented. Check the coat regularly and comb especially behind the ears and on the inner thighs, where the Swedish Kennel Club says tangles may readily form. Bathe the dog when it is dirty; no fixed calendar suits every individual. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. Base care on the dog’s actual coat and daily life rather than a fixed bathing or clipping routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Papillon is typically alert, lively and quick to learn, with a marked interest in people and activities. Its small body often contains more willingness to work than the label “lapdog” suggests. A Papillon may enjoy both close company and tasks involving concentration, problem-solving or body awareness.

Breed descriptions should not, however, be read as a guarantee of a particular personality. The Swedish Kennel Club’s BPH behavioural analysis shows considerable variation among participating Papillons, including how intensely they greet strangers, how readily they play and how curious they are. The results apply to the dogs assessed and primarily show why the individual, family lines, early experiences and continuing training all matter.

Alertness may show in how quickly the dog notices sounds, visitors and movement outside the home. This need not become a major barking problem, but it is sensible to reward calm behaviour from the start, give the dog an alternative task at the door and avoid allowing every signal to lead to excitement. Ask the breeder how the parents function in daily life, not only how they behave at shows or during training.

## Training & Exercise

The Papillon needs physical movement and mental enrichment every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy, fit adult can often join surprisingly substantial walks, while a puppy, older dog or individual with a health problem needs a different load. Adjust activity to age, fitness, weather and recovery rather than treating body size as a measure of need.

The breed often learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training with clear criteria works well. Vary everyday obedience, scent work, balance exercises and small problem-solving tasks, and finish while the dog can still concentrate. Agility, obedience and other dog sports can be a good fit when training is developed gradually and the surface, obstacles and load are adapted to the dog’s size and maturity.

A small dog needs the same care with recall and exposure to different environments as a large one. Practise engagement and returning in safe places before allowing freedom where traffic, wildlife or larger dogs could present a risk. Also teach the dog to settle between activities. A Papillon given only high-energy tasks may become very good at getting excited but less skilled at relaxing again.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Papillon as a generally sound and often long-lived breed, but responsible health screening remains important. For Swedish litters, pap-PRA1 is the clearest formal checkpoint. Pap-PRA1 is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, which damages the retina. It is autosomal recessive: a carrier has one copy of the variant and does not develop that particular form, while a genetically affected dog has inherited the variant from both parents.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result for pap-PRA1 or to be recorded as hereditarily clear. Two carriers may not be mated, and an affected dog may not be used for breeding. A pap-PRA1 DNA test does not, however, rule out every other genetic cause of PRA or other eye diseases. An eye examination therefore serves a different purpose. The Swedish breed club, Papillon-Ringen, recommends an eye examination after three years of age to monitor other eye changes.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known normal patella result before mating. This is an important recommendation, but the current Swedish Kennel Club rules do not list patella status as a specific registration requirement for the Papillon. Ask to see the result rather than assuming registration itself covers it.

In other countries, recommended programmes may include additional tests. For example, the UK’s Royal Kennel Club lists an NAD test among the additional checks for the Papillon. This does not make NAD a Swedish registration requirement. Ask the breeder to distinguish between mandatory Swedish results, breed-club recommendations and optional additional tests.

Oral health also deserves attention. Small dog breeds are more often affected by periodontal disease, and daily tooth brushing is a simple way to reduce the risk of severe tartar and painful periodontitis. Bad breath, bleeding gums or reluctance to chew should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Papillon originates from France and Belgium and is the erect-eared variety of the Continental Toy Spaniel. The type has been documented since the 16th century and appeared as a companion dog at European courts. The name Papillon means butterfly in French and refers to the large, obliquely carried ears with long fringes. Phalène means moth and is the name used for the drop-eared variety.

The FCI recognises the breed as number 77 in the companion and toy dog group. The modern standard retains both the Papillon and the Phalène. Its history explains the breed’s role as a companion, but the modern Papillon is not merely decorative: its liveliness and readiness to learn are evident in many present-day dog activities.

## Living with the Breed

The Papillon can live well in either a flat or a house when given daily activity, closeness and help learning to settle. The size of the home matters less than the shape of everyday life. A home where many sounds carry requires extra work on calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows, as an alert individual may otherwise begin to comment on every change.

The breed can live well with children, but this depends on the dog’s temperament, the child’s behaviour and adult supervision. Teach children to leave the dog undisturbed while it sleeps or eats, not to pick it up or grab it, and to play at floor level under supervision. This protects both dog and child and is more accurate than a general “child-friendly” label.

The same individual assessment is needed with other animals. A Papillon can live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Give the animals separate resources and places to retreat, and supervise play where there is a large difference in size. A friendly large dog can injure a very small dog accidentally.

Being left alone is a skill, not something that can be assumed from breed. Accustom the dog gradually to short periods alone and increase them only while it remains relaxed. Barking, whining, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing a normally valued reward can indicate that the step was too large.

Before buying a puppy, check more than its appearance. Ask to see the parents’ registered pap-PRA1 results, patella status and any eye results, and ask why that particular mating was chosen. Meet the dam and notice how the dogs recover after new sounds and visitors. For a puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, you should receive the registration certificate, the Swedish Kennel Club contract and a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old on the day of handover. Screening reduces risk but can never guarantee a particular state of health or personality; open documentation and realistic expectations therefore matter more than promises.

Papillon

Papillon Breed Club UK

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Papillon is a small, elegant toy dog with large butterfly-like ears, a fine, silky parti-coloured coat and a plumed tail. Lively, intelligent and highly trainable, it enjoys activity and mental stimulation, makes an alert watchdog, needs regular brushing, and often lives into the mid–late teens.

Anro Hoglas

## Quick Facts

The English Springer Spaniel is an active British gundog bred to find game, flush it from cover and retrieve it. It is best suited to someone who wants to engage both the dog's body and mind every day, whether through shooting, dog sports or a varied outdoor life.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of approximately 51 centimetres at the withers. It does not specify a weight, so a fixed weight range is not a useful benchmark for every dog.
- **Type:** The breed has long included distinct breeding lines, particularly working-bred and more show-oriented dogs. A breeder's aims and the parents' traits say more about what a puppy may inherit than the label alone.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog. Individual dogs still differ in areas such as activity level, sociability and sensitivity.
- **Activity:** The breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** Dense, straight and weather-resistant, with feathering that needs regular brushing and trimming.
- **The right home:** A good choice for someone who wants to train, work with their dog and spend plenty of time outdoors; a poorer fit if the dog is often expected to make do with brief toilet walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Springer Spaniel is a strong, compact dog with a balanced, elegant outline. The standard gives a height of about 51 centimetres at the withers but no official weight range. Do not judge a dog against an arbitrary figure on the scales. Assess body condition instead: there should be a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure.

The coat should be dense and straight, providing protection from the weather without being coarse. The longer hair on the ears, legs and body forms moderate feathering. Permitted colours are liver and white or black and white, with or without tan markings.

A thorough brush about once a week is a sensible starting point for many dogs, but the amount of coat, season and activity determine what is actually needed. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, ear feathering and feet after woodland walks, swimming or wet weather, as debris and tangles can collect there. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. Clipping and trimming are required regularly, but the interval should follow the length and quality of the coat rather than a rigid calendar.

The well-feathered drop ears need regular checks. Trim the longer hair on the inside when necessary, and inspect the ears after swimming. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge or repeated scratching warrants veterinary advice rather than continued cleaning without knowing the cause.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Marked shyness and aggression are not desired traits. This makes the English Springer Spaniel an appealing working companion, but it does not guarantee how every dog will behave with children, strangers or other animals.

Results from BPH behavioural assessments also show that a breed average does not tell the whole story. Dogs of the same breed can react differently in social situations, during play and when something unexpected happens. The breed also includes different breeding lines that have not always been assessed separately. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, which traits have been prioritised and whether BPH or other relevant test results are available.

The breed needs opportunities to use its curiosity and willingness to work. High activity should not, however, be confused with a need to remain constantly on the go. The ability to switch between work and rest should be taught from the start through clear routines, calm breaks and suitably challenging tasks.

## Training & Exercise

The breed's original working sequence – hunt, flush and retrieve – explains much of its training needs. Many individuals enjoy investigating ground and cover, carrying objects and working closely with their handler. Walks can therefore be more rewarding when they sometimes include scent work, retrieving, simple searches or another shared training task.

There is no single daily exercise duration that suits every dog. A fit, healthy adult can cope with far more than a puppy, an older dog or one returning to activity after a break. Base the workload on age, health, fitness and recovery. Combine unhurried walks, time moving through varied terrain, mental training and rest instead of trying to exhaust the dog with intense exercise every day.

Checking in with the handler, recall and the ability to remain in place despite scent or movement are especially useful skills. Begin in easy situations and increase distractions gradually. Positive, reward-based methods and short sessions help preserve confidence and willingness to cooperate. A long line can add safety during training, but it does not prove that the dog will later be reliable off lead everywhere.

In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wild animals unless taking part in hunting. Extra control is required in places where wildlife may be present between 1 March and 20 August. If a dog has a strong interest in game, its owner must be able to prevent it from setting off in pursuit.

## Health

The English Springer Spaniel is generally described as a healthy breed. When buying a puppy, it is nevertheless important to distinguish formal requirements from breed-club recommendations. A long list of every condition ever reported in the breed is less useful than current results for the specific parents and their families.

For litters registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that they must have been assessed and a result must be available; it does not mean that every grade is automatically equally suitable for breeding. Springerklubben has more detailed breeding recommendations concerning hip results and combinations. Ask to see the parents' actual results and how the proposed mating follows the club's current guidance.

The breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination no more than one year before mating. Gonioscopy before a dog's first mating forms part of the club's guidance for assessing the drainage angle of the eye. Check the date, diagnoses and any follow-up advice on the certificates; do not settle for being told that the dogs have simply been “tested”.

Fucosidosis is a recessively inherited enzyme deficiency that can affect the central nervous system. A carrier does not become ill from the variant but can pass it on. A DNA test is available, allowing the breeder to document the parents' status and avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies. Understanding the verified results matters more than demanding the same set of tests for every dog.

In everyday life, check the ears and monitor body condition regularly. Recurrent ear trouble, changes in the eyes, lameness or other symptoms should be assessed by a vet. Do not assume that a problem is harmless simply because someone calls it “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The English Springer Spaniel comes from Britain's old spaniel tradition. These dogs were used to find and flush game for hunting with nets, falcons or Greyhounds. As shooting developed, their work became searching ahead of the gun, flushing game and then retrieving it.

The word “springer” refers to making game leave its hiding place. The Kennel Club recognised the English Springer Spaniel as a distinct breed in 1902. Sweden's Springerklubben was founded in 1982.

Breeding has followed different directions for many years. Working populations have primarily been selected for performance, while others have been selected more for conformation and the show ring. This is an important historical and practical distinction, but it does not create two simple personality templates. There is variation within both directions, and modern dogs may take part in several activities. A buyer should therefore assess the particular breeder's aims, the parents and the wider family rather than relying on a label alone.

## Living with the Breed

An English Springer Spaniel can live in a flat if it receives sufficient activity, recovery time and access to countryside or other suitable training environments. A garden does not replace walks and activities with its owner. What matters is how the dog's day is spent, not whether the home is a house or a flat.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and settled, and increase the duration only when it can relax. Individuals vary, so do not organise daily life on the assumption that the breed name guarantees a certain number of hours alone.

An adult should always supervise time with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. The standard's description of a friendly dog never replaces supervision. Take the same care with other animals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings brief and controlled, and give the cat its own escape routes. Whether a particular dog lives well with cats or other dogs depends on the individual, its previous experience and the introduction.

When considering a puppy, it is particularly useful to check:

- the breeder's goals and whether the dogs' level of working drive suits your life
- both parents' official hip results, not merely that they have been X-rayed
- the date and full result of eye examinations, including any gonioscopy
- verified fucosidosis status where relevant to the mating
- how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, ideally supplemented by BPH or working results
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different environments and ordinary family life.

The best match is a dog whose likely activity level, willingness to work and sensitivity fit the owner's real routine. For an English Springer Spaniel, that assessment is more valuable than promises that the breed is always easy, good with children or the same regardless of breeding direction.

English Springer Spaniel

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The English Springer Spaniel is a medium, athletic gundog with a feathered, weather‑resistant coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, affectionate and people‑oriented, it requires 1.5–2 hours of daily mental and physical exercise. Generally healthy, active, and suited to engaged, outdoorsy homes.

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Accounts

## Quick Facts

The Jämthund is a large Swedish hunting spitz, bred primarily to find elk and hold the animal in place by barking at bay. It is a courageous, independent working dog with exceptional stamina — not a breed developed chiefly for life as a companion.

- **Origin:** Sweden
- **Breed group:** Spitz and primitive types
- **Purpose:** Hunting dog that holds game at bay, used mainly for elk hunting
- **Height at the withers:** 57–65 cm for males and 52–60 cm for females
- **Coat:** Dense double coat in lighter or darker shades of grey
- **Typical traits:** Strong hunting drive, stamina, courage, independence and a willingness to co-operate
- **Best suited to:** A hunter or active home able to provide a genuine outlet for the breed's hunting instincts

A Jämthund can be calm and affectionate at home when its needs are met, but everyday exercise is not always a substitute for the work it was bred to do. The key question before buying one is not simply whether you enjoy being outdoors, but whether you can provide a meaningful role for an independent hunting dog with exceptional stamina.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jämthund is a large, strong and agile spitz with a rectangular outline. Its body should be slightly longer than its height at the withers without appearing heavy or overlong. Males stand 57–65 cm, with 61 cm as the ideal, while females stand 52–60 cm, with 56 cm as the ideal. The breed standard gives no set weight, so body condition and proportion are more useful guides than a general weight range.

The head is long, with upright ears and an alert expression. The tail is set high and carried loosely curled in a low arc against the thigh, rather than tightly curled over the back.

The coat consists of fairly close-lying guard hairs and a short, soft, light-coloured undercoat. The colour is a darker or lighter grey. Light grey or cream markings appear on areas including the muzzle, cheeks, throat, chest, belly, legs and underside of the tail.

Coat care is usually straightforward. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it and brush the coat thoroughly during shedding periods. After work in woodland or rough ground, check the paws, claws, skin and coat for injuries, debris and ticks. The frequency depends on the season and how the dog is used, not on a fixed weekly timetable.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jämthund should be courageous and energetic, yet calm and steady. While hunting, it works independently at a distance, searches for game and has to make its own decisions. At the same time, it should remain in contact with its handler and be willing to co-operate. This combination helps explain why the breed often learns quickly but does not necessarily follow instructions mechanically.

Training works best when it is clear, consistent and based on rewards. Harsh methods risk damaging trust without producing better teamwork. Reward attention, recall and calm choices from the outset, and practise the same skills in the environments where they will actually be needed.

Barking is a working tool. The Jämthund has been bred to mark game with sustained barking while holding it at bay, and that instinct can also be noticeable in daily life. This does not mean every dog will be noisy indoors, but anyone living in a building with thin walls should take the issue seriously and teach calm behaviour around doors, visitors and activity outside the home.

Individual dogs and breeding lines vary. Ask the breeder how the parents behave while hunting, at rest, around people and in unfamiliar surroundings. Hunting results reveal a great deal about working ability, but they do not tell you everything about a dog's behaviour at home.

## Training & Exercise

A Jämthund needs more than ordinary lead walks: it needs fitness work, opportunities to use its nose, co-operation with its handler and tasks that engage its hunting drive. There is no official daily quota of hours or kilometres that suits every dog. The right level depends on age, fitness, health, season and the demands of the work.

For an adult, a good routine combines regular physical conditioning with search, tracking and handler-focus exercises. Hunting and hunting training are the breed's most natural outlets. Outside the hunting season, planned fitness work and mentally demanding tasks are still needed, alongside rest and recovery. A dog that has worked for a long time over difficult ground may need an easier day afterwards even if it still appears keen to continue.

Recall is important, but it does not remove the hunting instinct. Build it gradually using a long line and carefully chosen distractions, and do not let the dog off lead where a wide search could put wildlife, traffic or the dog itself at risk. A GPS tracker is a safety aid during hunting, not a substitute for basic training and sound judgement.

A puppy should be allowed to explore, play, develop body awareness and learn to follow its handler in short, positive sessions. Increase distance and effort gradually according to the individual dog's development. The breed's specific breeding strategy cautions against demanding hunting training before the dog is fully developed. Avoid chasing early results through long, repetitive or forced sessions. A vet or canine physiotherapist can help with a plan if there are concerns about the growing dog's movement or joints.

## Health

The Jämthund is generally regarded as a healthy, functional breed, but hip dysplasia and epilepsy do occur. The breed's specific breeding strategy also highlights diabetes and the eye disease progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA. A thorough check before buying a puppy should therefore cover both recorded screening results and the health history of close relatives.

For Jämthund litters to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed uses an HD index, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a parental average above 100. Dogs graded D or E for hip dysplasia may not be used for breeding under the breed's index programme.

The breed's specific breeding recommendations go further: the parents should have hips graded A or B, elbows clear of dysplasia, an eye examination no more than twelve months old and a qualification from an off-lead hunting trial for elk. These recommendations must be distinguished from the specific registration conditions. Elbow and eye results and hunting qualifications are nevertheless valuable when comparing litters.

Ask the breeder about:

- the parents' hip and elbow results and current hip indices
- the date and result of their most recent eye examination
- epilepsy, diabetes and PRA in parents, siblings and previous offspring
- hunting-trial results and how the dogs work in practice
- the physical and behavioural development of previous offspring

Epilepsy and diabetes cannot be assessed through a single simple health certificate. Open information about the wider family is therefore particularly valuable. Poor vision in dim light, recurring seizures, excessive thirst or a marked increase in urination should be assessed by a vet, but these signs can have several causes and should not be self-diagnosed.

## History & Origins

The Jämthund is a Swedish breed from the northern coniferous forest tradition of large hunting spitzes. It was officially recognised as a separate breed in 1946. Before then, the larger Jämthund type and the smaller Norwegian Elkhound Grey were judged within the same breed, which helps explain why the Jämthund received its own standard relatively late.

Older sources describe large, wolf-like hunting dogs in Jämtland and neighbouring regions, but an unbroken line from ancient dogs to today's registered breed cannot be proven. What is clear is that the modern Jämthund has been shaped through purposeful breeding for work in Nordic forests.

Elk hunting has been the breed's dominant role. The dog searches independently, works to keep the elk in one place and then marks its position by barking at bay so that the handler can approach. The Jämthund has also been used to hunt species including bear and wild boar, but its identity and breeding aims remain most closely tied to its work as an elk dog that holds game at bay.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Jämthund works best when its work, recovery and home routine are planned as a whole. A large garden is useful but cannot replace training or meaningful activity. Flat living is not impossible, but it requires ready access to suitable countryside, practical storage for equipment, attention to noise and a routine that gets the dog outdoors frequently.

The breed can live successfully in a family with children, but this is not automatic. An adult should always supervise interactions between a dog and young children, take responsibility for exercise and give the dog a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Even a friendly, strong and enthusiastic youngster can accidentally knock over a small child.

A strong hunting drive affects life with other animals. A Jämthund introduced calmly and carefully to a cat may learn to live alongside it, but this does not guarantee the same response to unfamiliar cats outdoors. Small pets need to be kept safely separate in a way that does not depend on obedience. Reactions to other dogs depend on the individual, its experience and the way introductions are handled; blanket claims that one sex will always or never get along are too simplistic.

Time alone should be built up gradually once the dog feels secure in its home. Adult dogs vary greatly in how readily they relax when left, and a puppy cannot be treated like a fully trained adult. Plan for supervision, toilet breaks and company in daily life rather than assuming that a great deal of exercise will automatically make the dog content with long periods alone.

Choose a breeder and litter for the life you can genuinely provide. Ask to see documented health results, enquire about illness in the family and find out how the parents hunt and behave at home. For someone seeking an enduring hunting partner and who enjoys close teamwork with an independent dog, the Jämthund can be an excellent fit. Someone looking mainly for an easy-going companion will find breeds with much more suitable foundations.

Jämthund

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Member Countries

The Jämthund is a large, wolf‑like Scandinavian spitz bred for elk hunting in harsh Nordic forests. It has a thick grey double coat, curled tail, and calm, loyal nature. Intelligent and independent, it needs experienced handling, rigorous daily exercise, and regular mental work.

## Quick Facts

The Akita is a large Japanese spitz, now kept mainly as a companion dog. It is independent, observant and often calm at home, but needs an owner who can train patiently and manage a powerful dog around people and animals.

- **Origin:** Japan
- **Breed group:** Group 5, spitz and primitive types
- **Height in the breed standard:** 67 cm for dogs and 61 cm for bitches, with a tolerance of 3 cm either way
- **Weight:** the FCI breed standard does not specify an official weight
- **Coat:** straight, harsh outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Common activities:** companionship, showing, tracking, scent search and other forms of everyday enrichment

The Akita and the American Akita are separate breeds. The Japanese Akita is lighter and more distinctly spitz-like, with a narrower range of accepted colours. The American Akita is more heavily built and has a different breed standard. Information, health results and pedigrees should therefore always be checked against the correct breed.

The breed is best suited to someone who appreciates an independent dog and can plan carefully for encounters with other dogs, recall training and early exposure to everyday environments. It is rarely the right choice if you want a dog that greets everyone or happily repeats the same exercise many times.

## Appearance & Coat

The Akita should be large, robust and well balanced, with pricked ears and a thick tail carried in a pronounced curl over the back. The breed standard gives a height of 67 cm for dogs and 61 cm for bitches, with a tolerance of 3 cm above or below. It does not give a weight, so figures found elsewhere should not be treated as an official breed range.

Accepted colours are red fawn, sesame, brindle and white. Sesame means red fawn hairs with black tips. Every colour except white must have **urajiro**: whitish hair on areas including the sides of the muzzle, cheeks, underside of the body and tail, and the inside of the legs. A black mask and markings on a white ground are not part of the Japanese Akita standard; such features may occur in the American Akita's colour range, which is another reason not to confuse the breeds.

The coat has harsh, straight guard hairs and a soft, dense undercoat. It is slightly longer over the withers and rump and longest on the tail. An Akita normally sheds a great deal of undercoat around twice a year. At those times it needs thorough combing, often enough to prevent loose undercoat from becoming packed. Between shedding periods, adjust brushing to the individual coat and bathe the dog when needed.

From puppyhood, build calm, positive associations with brushing, nail trimming, dental checks and having the paws, ears and skin examined. This is particularly valuable with a large, independent dog: reward-based cooperative handling makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Akita is described as composed, faithful and receptive, but also as confident and independent. This does not mean that every dog behaves in the same way. Breeding, early experiences, training and the individual's personality all affect how it responds to people and animals.

Many Akitas form strong bonds with their family and like to keep track of what is happening at home. An individual may be reserved with strangers. The aim should not be to make the dog accept physical attention from everyone, but to help it remain calm and safe around visitors, passers-by and new places.

The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed may have difficulties with other dogs, particularly those of the same sex. Treat this as a risk to plan for, not a certainty about every Akita. Use controlled introductions, avoid forcing greetings and learn to recognise early signs of tension. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave with dogs of both sexes.

Its history as a hunting and guarding dog also means that safety around small animals and off-lead exercise must be assessed individually. An Akita raised with a cat may live well with that particular cat, but this does not predict its response to a running animal outdoors. Use a lead or long line until recall has been properly tested wherever the dog might be allowed off lead.

An Akita can live with children, but a breed name is not a guarantee of safety. A responsible adult must always supervise young children with any dog, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Because an adult Akita is large and strong, an adult should also take responsibility for walks and challenging encounters with other dogs.

## Training & Exercise

An Akita needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no authoritative fixed number of exercise minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the intensity of the activity determine what is appropriate. Walks should be combined with tasks that engage the mind and nose.

Tracking, scent search and varied walks suit the breed's documented interest in scent and trails. Obedience and agility can also work when they are adapted to the individual. The Swedish Kennel Club points out that Akitas can tire of repetitive training. Short, clear sessions with a worthwhile reward therefore often work better than numerous mechanical repetitions.

Train with security, consistency and positive learning. Reward the behaviour you want and increase difficulty gradually. Harsh physical correction does not solve independent thinking and may damage trust. Give particular attention to:

- checking in with you and walking on a loose lead
- passing other dogs calmly and being able to increase the distance when needed
- recall first in low-distraction places, then with the safety of a long line
- a well-practised place where the dog can settle when visitors arrive
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat

A securely enclosed area is the safest place for free movement until recall works around distractions. Even a well-trained Akita can make independent decisions, so off-lead access should depend on the individual dog's behaviour and the risks at that location, not on a general description of the breed.

## Health

The Akita is generally regarded as a relatively healthy breed, but the Swedish breed club's breeding strategy identifies autoimmune disease, hip dysplasia and eye diagnoses as areas to monitor. A well-informed puppy purchase therefore depends on both recorded screening results and open information about disease in the family line.

Two diagnoses that receive particular attention are sebaceous adenitis, **SA**, and Vogt–Koyanagi–Harada-like syndrome, often called **VKH** or **UDS** in dogs. SA is an inflammation that damages the sebaceous glands and may cause skin and coat problems. VKH/UDS may cause loss of pigmentation and serious eye problems. A small number of Swedish Akitas were reported with these diagnoses in the breed club's account for 2000–2020, but those figures should not be read as a current risk percentage. The club's strategy says that dogs diagnosed with SA or VKH should not be bred from and that health in their relatives should be considered.

For hips, there is an important distinction between a rule and a recommendation. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before an Akita litter can be registered. The requirement means that a result must be recorded; it does not by itself mean that every permitted mating has parents graded A or B. The breed club's breeding strategy goes further and states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.

Eye examination is not a registration requirement for the Akita under the 2026 Swedish rules. The breed club describes it as voluntary but desirable at some point in the life of a dog intended for breeding. A voluntary result can still provide valuable information when you compare breeders.

Ask the breeder to show and explain:

- the official hip results for both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's records
- whether the parents have had eye examinations and what results are known for close relatives
- whether SA, VKH/UDS or other diagnosed skin or eye conditions have occurred in close relatives
- how health, temperament and genetic diversity were balanced in the planned mating

Seek veterinary advice for persistent skin changes, marked hair loss, loss of pigment, eye pain, redness or a sudden change in vision. These signs have several possible causes and cannot be assessed safely from the breed alone or from online information.

## History & Origins

The Akita comes from Japan and is named after the Akita region. The FCI history describes the Akita Matagi as medium-sized bear-hunting dogs. From 1603 they were also used for dog fighting, and from 1868 they were crossed with Tosas and Mastiffs. Dog fighting was prohibited in 1908, and in 1931 nine outstanding Akitas were designated as natural monuments in Japan.

The Second World War had a severe impact on the breed. Afterwards, three distinct types remained: Matagi Akitas, fighting Akitas and dogs with German Shepherd ancestry. Japanese breeders then worked to restore the original spitz type by using Matagi Akitas and reducing the influence of foreign breeds. That work shaped the modern Japanese Akita.

The American line developed in a different direction. Dogs of the heavier post-war type were taken to the United States, where the American Akita developed. In Sweden the population was divided in 2000, and according to the breed's breeding strategy, present Swedish Akita breeding is based on Japanese lines. The Akita and American Akita are therefore not two names for the same dog, but separate breeds with their own standards.

## Living with the Breed

An Akita can live in a flat if its routine provides enough opportunities to go out, suitable activity and an undisturbed place to rest. The size of the home alone does not determine whether life there will work. It matters more that a large dog can move calmly through shared entrances and narrow spaces, that encounters with other dogs are manageable, and that good walking areas are nearby.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A confident adult dog that has been carefully trained to stay alone can often manage a few hours, whereas a puppy cannot be left in the same way. Progress varies between individuals. Do not increase the duration while the dog shows distress; arrange a dog sitter, dog day care or another solution if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

In a home with other dogs, consider their sex, how each individual behaves with dogs and whether they can be kept apart. Feed separately and separate high-value chews if competition is a concern, and provide several quiet resting places. With cats or small animals, use controlled introductions and make sure a gate or door can separate the animals. A history of calm contact does not make every future situation risk-free.

Before buying a puppy, meet adult dogs from the breeder's lines and ask for concrete examples rather than general breed labels. Ask how the dogs cope with dog encounters, visitors, handling, time alone and unfamiliar places. Compare the answers with your real life: who will handle the walks, how will you manage guests, where can the dog rest, and what happens if it cannot be let off lead or live freely with another family dog? That review tells you more about the match than describing an Akita simply as loyal, calm or independent.

Akita

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Akita Breed Overview

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Large, powerful Japanese spitz breed with a broad head, curled tail and dense double coat that sheds heavily. Calm, independent and reserved with strangers but deeply loyal to family and a natural guardian. Intelligent yet strong‑willed, best for experienced, consistent owners.

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Vi föder upp Jämthundar och Japansk Akita. 
Vi går jaktprov, ställer ut och hälsotestar våra djur , dvs hd/ed röntgar och ögonlyser.
Vi tycker det är väldigt viktigt med socialisering och bra temperament på hundarna.

Eldsjöns Kennel

## Quick Facts

- The Chinese Crested Dog is a small companion dog with two coat varieties: hairless and powder puff. Both can be born in the same litter.
- The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard does not specify an official weight.
- The hairless variety has a crest on its head, so-called socks on its feet and a plume on its tail. The powder puff has a long, soft coat over its entire body.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful dog that should never be vicious. Even so, there are clear individual differences in sociability, curiosity, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- Skin or coat care, tooth brushing and protection suited to the weather need to be part of everyday life from the outset.
- When choosing a puppy, eye examination results, PLL status, dental status and the health and temperament of close relatives matter more than general promises about the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chinese Crested Dog is small, active and graceful without necessarily being fragile. The breed includes both the elegant deer type and the somewhat heavier cobby type. The body should be moderately long to long, with a level back and long, flowing, free movement. All colours and colour combinations are permitted.

The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard gives no weight, so the figure of 5.4 kg as an upper limit should not be treated as the modern ideal. Assess an adult dog by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead.

In the hairless variety, the body should be largely bare, with long hair on the head, feet and tail. The amount of body hair nevertheless varies between individuals. Ask to see the puppy before it has been trimmed, and ask the breeder to demonstrate how that particular dog's skin and furnishings should be cared for. The skin should be fine, soft and warm to the touch.

The powder puff has a thin undercoat covered by a veil of long, soft hair. The coat should be flowing rather than heavy or woolly. Part the coat and comb all the way down to the skin. Pay particular attention to early tangles wherever hair is dense or subject to friction. A weekly routine for bathing and checking the coat can be a starting point, but its condition should determine how often it needs detangling, washing and thorough drying.

Hairless skin needs to be checked for chafing, redness, spots and dryness. Young dogs can develop blackheads and spots during periods of hormonal change, although the extent varies greatly. Provide shade and suitable clothing when sun, wind, wet weather or cold make it necessary. A powder puff may also need weather protection because its fine coat provides relatively little warmth and is not particularly water-resistant. If the skin remains inflamed or itchy, or develops sores that do not heal, a vet should assess the cause and help with the choice of products.

Neither the hairless variety nor the powder puff is allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, and levels also vary between dogs of the same breed. A small amount of loose hair is therefore no guarantee for a family affected by allergies.

## Temperament & Personality

The Chinese Crested Dog should be cheerful and not vicious, but the breed encompasses many different personalities. In data from Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment, the dogs assessed appeared relatively confident, moderately curious and not generally vocal or aggressive. The same data show considerable variation in how dogs greet unfamiliar people, play and respond to unexpected events.

That is more useful than labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog”. One individual may seek a great deal of physical contact, while another may be more independent. Some greet visitors immediately; others prefer to observe first. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives cope with handling, new people, noise, settling and brief separations. Look for a puppy that can explore at its own pace and recover after something unexpected.

The breed can be alert and may bark when something happens, but that does not mean every dog is very vocal. In a home where noise carries easily, it is sensible to reward calm behaviour around doors, windows and sounds in communal areas from an early age. Find out whether the dog can also settle when nothing is happening. The ability to rest matters just as much as playfulness.

With children, the interaction matters more than the breed label. The dog's small size calls for extra care if children want to pick it up or carry it, but there is no general rule that the breed is suitable only for older children. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no well-founded time formula that suits every dog. A good day might include walks with time to sniff, play, a short skills session and calm recovery. An active individual may enjoy longer outings, agility, rally obedience, heelwork to music or tracking, while another may prefer less demanding activities.

Adjust duration and intensity to the dog's age, fitness, the weather, its movement and how well it recovers. A hairless dog that tenses up in the cold is not having a worthwhile walk simply because a target duration has been reached. Choose protection and surroundings to suit the conditions, and add indoor training when needed.

Reward-based training works well for teaching everyday skills. Start with recall, walking on a lead, settling in one place, leaving objects and stopping an activity when asked. Also practise cooperative handling of the mouth, feet, skin, coat and ears. This makes tooth brushing, bathing, clipping and veterinary visits less stressful.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy has to greet everyone. Instead, let it encounter different people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and environments at a distance where it can still eat, think and choose whether to make contact. If it becomes frightened, make the situation easier and give it time to recover. This builds greater confidence than forcing an encounter.

## Health

There are no breed-specific health tests that must be completed before a Chinese Crested Dog litter can be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, SKK. The breed club does, however, issue clear breeding recommendations. The distinction matters when assessing a litter: guidance can be highly relevant without being mandatory.

The breed club states that both parents should have an eye examination no earlier than 18 months of age, with a certificate no more than one year old at the time of mating. It also states that both should have a known DNA status for primary lens luxation, PLL. In addition, it recommends a known DNA status for prcd-PRA and a known patellar status established from 12 months of age. A patellar examination is therefore an important point to check, but it is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Veterinary auscultation of the heart before breeding is described as desirable, rather than as a formal requirement or recommendation in the club's “must” and “should” categories.

Ask to see the result itself, its date and the dog's identity. A DNA test applies only to the mutation analysed and does not replace a clinical eye examination. A healthy carrier of a simple recessive condition does not automatically have to be excluded from breeding, but should be mated to a genetically clear dog so that affected puppies are not born. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

Eye conditions highlighted in the breed include PLL, different forms of PRA or retinopathy, and dry eye. Ask about examination results and symptoms in older relatives as well. The breed club's health review also discusses heart conditions that tend to appear later in life and indications of back problems. These findings justify questions about older relatives and early heart murmurs or back symptoms; they do not mean that every dog will become ill.

Hairlessness and dentition are linked through a variant of the FOXI3 gene, which affects the development of both hair and teeth. Hairless dogs may therefore lack some permanent teeth or have unusually shaped, forward-pointing teeth. Powder puffs do not have this specific genetic effect and should normally have a complete scissor bite. Congenitally missing teeth are not the same as periodontal disease, but both varieties need daily tooth brushing to limit plaque and gum disease. Monitor the change from puppy to adult teeth, and ask a vet to assess retained deciduous teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty chewing.

In a large UK study, median life expectancy was 13.4 years among 928 Chinese Crested Dogs. The confidence interval for the median was 13.0–13.8 years. This result describes the study population, not how long an individual dog will live.

## History & Origins

The breed's early history is uncertain. China is listed as the country of origin and Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard, but it is not possible to trace an unbroken line from ancient Chinese hairless dogs to today's breed. Stories about dogs aboard trading ships, rat-catching and life during the Han dynasty should therefore be treated as theories rather than established facts.

The documented modern milestones are clearer. Chinese Crested Dogs were shown in the United States between 1885 and 1926, after which they were scarcely seen for nearly 50 years. Organised breeding in Britain was re-established with imports from the United States between 1965 and 1968. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1972, the first Swedish litter was born that year, and the dogs were registered with SKK in 1973. The Chinese Crested Club of Sweden was founded in 1990.

## Living with the Breed

The type of home does not by itself determine whether a Chinese Crested Dog will thrive. Both a flat and a house can work if the dog receives activity, rest and gradual training to be left alone. Assess the home in terms of noise, access to suitable places for walks and how easily the dog can get away from draughts, strong sunlight and commotion. A small body does not mean small needs.

A young puppy should not be left alone. Once it feels secure at home, training can begin with the puppy relaxing while you move behind a gate or leave the room very briefly. Increase the time only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can often cope alone for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. A camera can help reveal pacing, panting, barking or an inability to settle.

Cats and other dogs can live successfully with the breed, but low prey drive or trouble-free coexistence cannot be promised on the basis of breed alone. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing, and give the cat a secure escape route and separate resources. Adapt play to the dogs' sizes and communication styles. Small pets should be kept safely apart unless you can control the situation with confidence.

The right home needs to be ready for the differences between the two coat varieties, daily dental care and a dog that needs both closeness and the ability to feel secure on its own. Meet adult relatives if possible, see the puppy untrimmed and check documented health results. These checks say far more than promises that all Chinese Crested Dogs are quiet, allergy-friendly or automatically easy family pets.

Chinese Crested Dog

The Chinese Crested Dog is a fine‑boned toy breed, either hairless with silky crest and furnishings or Powder Puff with a soft full coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, they train well with gentle methods, need protection and care for skin or coat, and moderate daily exercise.

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