Hubbestads säteri kennel

Truly Charmant

Emterborns

## Quick Facts

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the United States as a herding and working dog and suits people who want to train and work with their dog every day. It is quick, responsive and versatile, but its working drive and guarding and herding instincts mean it is rarely suited to someone primarily looking for an undemanding companion.

- The breed belongs to FCI Group 1 and was developed to work sheep and cattle on farms and ranches.
- Desirable height at the withers is 51–58 cm for males and 46–53 cm for females. The breed standard gives no ideal weight.
- The coat is medium-length, weather-resistant and has an undercoat. The base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red, with or without white markings and tan points.
- The tail may be naturally long or short. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.
- An Australian Shepherd needs daily physical activity, problem-solving, co-operation and opportunities to settle.
- For Swedish breeding dogs, official hip dysplasia (HD) status and known mental status through an MH assessment are key checks. MH records reactions; it is not a pass-or-fail test.

## Appearance & Coat

The Australian Shepherd is a medium-sized, well-balanced and mobile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. It should be muscular and solid without becoming heavy or clumsy, because its construction must allow quick changes of direction and sustained work. The standard specifies desirable height but no ideal weight. Assess an adult by its proportions, body condition, movement and function rather than relying on a weight range said to come from the standard.

The coat is straight to wavy, medium-length and weather-resistant. The amount of undercoat varies with factors including climate and season. A correct coat needs regular combing and closer checks during shedding, but not an identical weekly schedule for every dog. Feel through the coat to the skin and pay particular attention to areas where friction can easily cause tangles, such as behind the ears and in the feathering. Check the skin, paws and nails at the same time after work in woodland or rough ground.

The four base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red. All may occur with or without white markings and tan points. Eyes may be brown, blue or amber, including combinations, flecks and marbling. Different-coloured eyes are therefore permitted and, by themselves, say nothing about the dog's temperament.

The tail may be naturally long or naturally short. The latter is often called NBT, natural bobtail, and must not be confused with a docked tail. The Swedish Kennel Club registers the breed with a tail designation showing whether the dog has a full-length tail, a bobtail, a tail shorter than normal, no tail or a docked tail. For a puppy buyer, the registration entry is better evidence than guessing from a photograph.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Australian Shepherd should be an intelligent working dog with strong herding and guarding instincts, an even disposition and a good-natured manner. It may be reserved when first meeting strangers, but breed-typical neutrality is not the same as fear or aggression. The Swedish Australian Shepherd Club therefore emphasises that neutral is a clearer term than reserved.

There is considerable variation between individuals and families. Some dogs work very intensely in relation to people and their surroundings, while others are more balanced in everyday life; the strength of herding, guarding, sound reactions and social interest can also differ. Labels such as working line or show line are not enough to predict a puppy's temperament. Look instead at the parents, mature close relatives, the breeder's goals, working records and documented mental assessments.

As a herding dog, the breed uses its body and movement to control livestock. This can produce a strong interest in things that move. In daily life, a dog may want to follow, stop or control running children, bicycles, joggers or other animals. This is a possible breed trait, not something every Australian Shepherd does and not an excuse to let the behaviour continue. Distance, a lead or barrier, a trained alternative and rewards for checking in make the situation safer while the skill is being taught.

MH is particularly useful when comparing breeding dogs and relatives. The assessment records how a dog reacted to contact, handling, play, surprises, noise and gunshots, among other things. It cannot on its own predict how a puppy will develop, and it does not measure the whole of working ability. Read the full record and ask how the dog behaves and recovers in ordinary environments.

## Training & Exercise

An Australian Shepherd needs both movement and tasks involving scent work, problem-solving and co-operation every day, but a fixed number of hours does not describe what an individual dog needs. A calm woodland walk, tracking or searching, everyday obedience, herding, working trials, agility and other well-planned training place different demands on the dog. Adapt volume and intensity to age, health, previous conditioning and recovery.

A manageable daily life requires more than making the dog physically tired. Prioritise the following from an early age:

- engagement and responsiveness even when something is moving nearby,
- recall, first practised in an easy setting and secured with a long line when needed,
- loose-lead walking, handling and the ability to wait,
- a clear transition between activity and calm,
- the ability to disengage from following or controlling children, vehicles and animals.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and adapted to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means accidentally rewarded habits can become established quickly. Make the desired behaviour easy to choose, increase difficulty gradually and do not use fear, threats or physical punishment.

Puppies and young dogs need movement, environmental experience, rest and short learning sessions, not an adult dog's workload or an exercise schedule based on a fixed number of minutes. The aim is a dog that can work with commitment, remain responsive and then settle. If activity increases while the dog finds it harder to sleep, relax or cope with everyday stimuli, the plan needs reviewing rather than simply adding more speed.

## Health

For a Swedish puppy buyer, the crucial distinction is between binding registration rules, breed-club recommendations and optional DNA tests. Under the current Swedish Kennel Club rules, official hip dysplasia status is required before mating and, for resident Swedish breeding dogs covered by the rules, known mental status through a complete MH assessment is also required. Known status does not automatically mean a good hip result or a desirable mental profile; check the actual result.

In its breed-specific breeding strategy, SASK generally recommends hip grades A or B and an eye examination for breeding dogs. The club also highlights the value of checking hip results in close relatives because the breed has no hip index. Elbow dysplasia (ED) screening is voluntary and is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Ask the breeder to show what was actually examined, on which dog, on what date and with what result rather than accepting the phrase health tested.

DNA tests are available for CEA, HSF4 and MDR1, among others, but SASK does not prescribe one universal panel for every mating. Each test concerns a particular gene or risk variant. A clear HSF4 result, for example, does not rule out every form of cataract and does not replace a clinical eye examination. Relevant tests are selected according to documented risks in the family and the planned mating.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, can affect how certain medicines are distributed in the body and reach the brain. An individual dog's status cannot be determined from its appearance. If the dog has been tested, the result should be recorded in its veterinary notes; medicine selection and dosage always belong with the veterinarian.

Two merle dogs should not be mated. The combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle variant and an increased risk of deafness and visual or eye abnormalities. The naturally short NBT tail has a different genetic basis. SASK recommends caution with matings in which both parents carry the NBT variant as well, but the two issues should not be confused.

## History & Origins

Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd as it is known today was developed in the United States. The FCI standard links the name to Basque shepherds who came to the United States from Australia during the nineteenth century. The precise contribution of older herding dogs is less certain, so a detailed account of a fixed breed recipe should be treated as theory.

American sheep and cattle farmers continued selecting dogs for versatility, independent work, intelligence and herding ability. After the Second World War, awareness of the breed grew as Western riding, rodeos, horse shows, films and television reached a wider audience. The modern breed's American ranch background explains both the paradox in its name and why function remains central to its description.

## Living with the Breed

The Australian Shepherd is best suited to a routine that includes planned activity, learning and recovery even during ordinary working weeks. A large garden does not replace shared tasks, and competition ambitions are unnecessary if the dog still has a meaningful and varied life. Anyone wanting a dog that mainly joins shorter walks should choose a less demanding type.

With children, an adult should always be present, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the household needs a plan for high-energy play. Interrupt and create distance before the dog begins to fixate on or control movement. Children should not be responsible for situations in which a quick, strong dog may react to its surroundings.

Living with dogs or cats depends on the individuals and the introduction, not the breed name. Find out about the parents' and the particular dog's history. Begin calmly with separate safe spaces, a barrier and a lead, give the cat an unobstructed escape route and progress only when both animals can remain relaxed. Small pets may require permanent physical separation.

The breed can live in a flat if it gets enough time outdoors, meaningful tasks and rest, and the owner can manage reactions to noise. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners need to prevent noises in shared areas from prompting the dog to guard and bark. Time alone should be trained gradually and judged by the individual dog's behaviour. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is an outing guideline, not a measure of how long an individual is comfortable being alone.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registration numbers, hip results, full MH records, dates and results of eye examinations, and relevant DNA results. Also check the tail designation and working achievements, and ask how mature close relatives behave around people, noise, movement, rest and recovery. Those details say more about what daily life with the dog is likely to be like than colour, eyes or whether the breeder calls the dogs working-line or show-line.

Australian Shepherd

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

The Australian Shepherd is a medium, athletic herding dog, highly intelligent and energetic. Loyal and people oriented, it bonds closely and needs substantial daily exercise, training, and mental work. Its striking, weather resistant coat and varied eye colors add to its appeal.

I Undenäs är Liian Kennel knuten till Australian shepherd genom tre officiella dokument. Hunddata visar en hund med Liian's-prefixet, född 2020. Svenska Australian Shepherdklubbens kullstatistik för 2021 tar upp två olika prefixbärande föräldradjur. I Östergötlands Kennelklubbs katalog 2023 står ett av dem som mor till en valp, samtidigt som Undenäs anges som uppfödarort.

Liian Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Liljeblomman's Kennel i Vikbolandet dokumenterar sin Cocker spaniel-historik med två händelser från 2007. Den egna webbplatsen berättar om den första kullen på våren och att kennelnamnet blev klart i december samma år. En officiell SKK-katalog från 2025 redovisar flera Cocker spaniel med Liljeblomman's-prefixet och Vikbolandet som uppfödarort. Källorna ger två tidsskilda nedslag i uppfödningens rasinriktning.

Liljeblomman's Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Absolut rottis i Åby står i profilen med Rottweiler som ras. På kennelns egen presentationssida uppges att kenneln startades 2010 och födde upp Rottweiler i tio år innan inriktningen byttes till Dansk Svensk Gårdshund. För den som jämför uppfödare ger det en daterad bild av kennelns rasbakgrund och hur verksamhetens inriktning har förändrats.

Absolut rottis

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Loveinya's Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

Vi på Lilltorpets Husky föder upp Siberian husky i Särna. Vårt kennelnamn välkomnades som en av Svenska Polarhundklubbens nya uppfödare 2020. År 2022 representerades Lilltorpets Husky även vid en norsk utställning i Tromsø, med Sverige angivet som uppfödarland.

Lilltorpets Husky

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Creme Havanna's

## Quick Facts

- The Shih Tzu is a small, purebred companion dog with roots in Tibet and development in China; Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard.
- The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. The FCI recognises one Shih Tzu, not separate “mini”, “imperial” or “teacup” varieties.
- Typical traits include a friendly yet independent nature, an alert expression and a sturdy body that is slightly longer than it is tall.
- The long coat requires substantial care. A shorter pet trim reduces the workload but does not remove the need for brushing, bathing and checking the eyes, ears, paws and skin.
- Free, quiet breathing, non-prominent eyes and a functional mouth matter more than an extremely short muzzle or an exaggerated coat.
- A Shih Tzu can thrive in a flat, but still needs daily movement, mental stimulation and social contact.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shih Tzu is small but sturdily built, not a delicate miniature dog. The body length from the withers to the root of the tail should exceed the height at the withers. The chest is broad and deep, and the high-set tail is carried in a curve over the back. The head is broad and round. The muzzle is short and wide, but the nostrils should be well open and the eyes large without being prominent.

The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. Breed type and sound function should take priority over trying to produce the smallest possible dog. Terms such as “imperial” and “teacup” therefore do not describe recognised size varieties of the breed.

The coat consists of long, dense outer hair and a moderate undercoat that should not be woolly. It may be straight or slightly wavy, and all colours are permitted. The hair on the head creates the characteristic chrysanthemum-like expression, but it must not obstruct the dog’s vision. The coat must never be so long or heavy that it restricts movement.

A Shih Tzu in a full-length coat needs a consistent routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes regular baths, thorough drying and combing to prevent mats. Hair around the face needs to be kept clear of the eyes, and the coat should be worked through down to the skin so that small tangles do not become large and painful.

A clipped Shih Tzu is easier to care for, but not maintenance-free. The coat continues to grow and needs brushing, washing and clipping at an interval that suits the individual coat and daily life. The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic: how a person reacts to a dog cannot be determined by the coat’s appearance or the amount of visible hair in the home.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shih Tzu should be friendly, lively, alert and independent. This companion dog often enjoys taking part in family life, but its independence may show when the dog sees no point in a task. That gives the breed character and humour, but does not make every individual automatically cooperative in every situation.

Temperament varies between individuals and is shaped by breeding, early experiences and everyday training. The breed’s friendliness is therefore no guarantee that every Shih Tzu will love all children, dogs or cats. Life with children works best when they can handle the dog calmly, leave it undisturbed while resting and avoid carrying it without help. Young children and the dog should always have an adult close by.

Meetings with other dogs and cats should be built up gradually. A calm introduction and the option to move away matter more than the assumption that the breed always gets along with everyone. Some individuals are open from the start; others need more time.

A Shih Tzu may bark at sounds and visitors, but the amount of vocalisation varies and can be influenced by daily routines. Reward calm behaviour, give the dog an alternative to rushing to the door and avoid accidentally turning every alert bark into a major event.

## Training & Exercise

The Shih Tzu needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, even though the breed is not built for prolonged, strenuous work. Several walks with time to sniff, short play sessions and small training tasks usually provide a better day than one monotonous route. Distance and intensity must be adjusted to the dog’s age, fitness, the weather and its ability to breathe.

Short, clear training sessions suit the breed’s combination of intelligence and independence. Reward the behaviour you want and work on one thing at a time: engagement, recall, handling, lead walking and settling. House training is easier with frequent chances to go outside, predictable routines and an immediate reward outdoors; there is no evidence that every Shih Tzu is unusually easy or difficult to house-train.

Heat and breathing should determine the level of activity. A Shih Tzu that breathes with effort or noise, quickly loses pace or struggles to recover should not be pushed further. Exercise during cooler parts of the day in warm weather, and ask a veterinarian to assess recurring breathing noise or reduced stamina. Snoring and rattling breathing should not be dismissed as normal simply because the breed is short-muzzled.

Time alone should be taught gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase the duration only while the dog remains calm, and adjust the plan if it shows anxiety or discomfort. In Sweden, dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs generally need more frequent opportunities.

## Health

The main health checks for a Shih Tzu concern breathing, eyes, and the mouth and teeth. The breed can live a long life, and a large British veterinary-record study found an overall disorder pattern closer to dogs in general than to several other flat-faced breeds. That does not mean the risks associated with a shortened skull can be ignored.

The Shih Tzu can be affected by brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, BOAS. In a 2026 British study of 42 Shih Tzus, the breed was assessed as having a moderate risk of BOAS, and just under half of the dogs received grade 0. The sample was small and cannot describe the health of an individual dog, but it shows why breathing must be assessed in practice. Open nostrils, quiet breathing at rest and in motion, normal recovery and a healthy body condition are important signs. The study also found an association between body condition and BOAS grade in Shih Tzus.

The Respiratory Function Grading Scheme, or RFG Scheme, is a standardised functional assessment of breathing. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to introduce central recording of RFG results for Shih Tzus, but assessments can start only when trained veterinarians and the technical procedures are in place. Ask the breeder which breathing assessments have actually been completed and check the current status with the Swedish Kennel Club.

The eyes should be large but not prominent. The Swedish Kennel Club’s breed-specific instructions identify excessively prominent eyes as a risk area, while British health guidance recommends eye screening before breeding. Seek veterinary care promptly if the dog suddenly squints, rubs an eye, or develops marked redness, cloudiness or heavy discharge; corneal injuries are painful and need examination.

The mouth is another priority because the Swedish instructions warn about a narrow lower jaw and poor dental status. In a British study of 11,082 Shih Tzus, disease affecting the gums and supporting structures of the teeth was the most frequently recorded diagnosis. The same study also highlighted anal sac, ear and eye disorders. Daily brushing with dog toothpaste is the most effective home care against plaque; veterinary checks are still needed when tartar, bad breath, bleeding gums or difficulty chewing appear.

The study reported an average age at death of 12.7 years in the British population examined. This is a population measure, not a promise for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Shih Tzu has its roots in Tibet but was developed as a breed in China, where dogs of this type lived in the imperial palaces. The FCI lists Tibet (China) as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country responsible for the breed standard. The breed belongs to the companion-dog group and has never been subject to a working trial requirement.

The first documented import to Great Britain took place in 1931. Shih Tzus were initially shown alongside Lhasa Apsos, but differences in the head and overall type led to the Shih Tzu being recognised as a separate breed in 1934. It was registered separately by the British kennel club in 1940. The breed reached Scandinavia during the 1930s.

The verified history is clear without romantic embellishment: Tibetan roots, development in China and later standardisation in Great Britain. Today’s friendly but independent companion dog reflects the role the breed has long held close to people.

## Living with the Breed

The Shih Tzu is best suited to someone who wants a small, social companion and accepts that the coat, eyes, teeth and breathing require ongoing attention. The breed can suit both flats and houses; what matters is not the size of the home but whether the dog receives movement, scent work, rest, company and regular opportunities to go outside.

Daily life is easiest when grooming, toothbrushing and handling are introduced early in small steps. A dog kept in a short trim still needs to become comfortable with a brush, comb, bath, hair dryer, paw checks and touch around the face. Plan for recurring clipping at home or by a professional groomer as well.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and preferably more adult relatives in normal movement, not only while they are sitting still. Listen to their breathing before and after a short walk, look for open nostrils and eyes that are not prominent, and ask how the breeder monitors the eyes, mouth and teeth, and respiratory function. Ask to see the available examination results and compare them with current information from the Swedish Kennel Club.

The breed is less suitable if the dog will regularly be left alone for long days, if daily coat care is unrealistic or if you want a dog for strenuous exercise in warm weather. For a home that appreciates a close companion who is not always eager to comply, the Shih Tzu can be a very enjoyable choice, provided sound function takes priority over extreme appearance.

Shih Tzu

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy companion dog from Tibetan and Chinese palaces, 4.5–8 kg with a long, flowing coat and chrysanthemum-like face. Affectionate, cheerful, and confident, it suits many homes. Needs moderate exercise, intensive grooming, and patient, reward-based training.

Tazzels Kennel

Oak Island Gundogs

German Pinscher

Deutscher Pinscher-Schnauzer-Klub 1895 e.V. (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

Royal Canin (UK)

Medium, athletic German farm dog with sleek low‑maintenance coat in black‑and‑tan or red. Intelligent, alert, loyal and protective yet reserved with strangers. Needs plenty of exercise, mental work, firm positive training and close family involvement; generally robust and long‑lived.

Vi är en liten familjeägd kennel som håller till i Alunda ca 3.5 mil utanför Uppsala.

Målet med vår uppfödningen är att få fram sunda, mentalt stabila, rastypiska och arbetsvilliga individer, som passar den vanliga familjen lika mycket som den som vill jobba med sin hund.

Jerntraktens Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

Vi har haft Flatcoated retriever sedan 1971 och uppfödning sedan 1983. Under alla dessa år har vi varit aktiva med våra hundar och provat på det mesta i "hundväg". Jakt och viltspår - både prov och praktisk - har varit det viktigaste, men vi har också  tävlat och tränat i bruks (spår, sök och rapport) & lydnadsklass. Flera valpar har placerat sig i SM (spår, sök, räddningshund) och flera är viltspårchampion och brukschampion. Läs mer på hemsidan.

Kennel Widomain

Tisseltass

Cloette's

## Quick Facts

The Japanese Spitz is a Japanese companion dog in FCI Group 5. Its defining features are a pure white double coat, small upright ears and a plumed tail carried over the back. This is a lively, observant breed that is often keen to train, but it can also be quick to bark. Anyone considering a Japanese Spitz should therefore assess noise tolerance just as carefully as exercise needs.

- **Origin and purpose:** Japan; companion dog, FCI number 262.
- **Size:** the standard sets a height of 30–38 cm for males, with females slightly smaller. It does not specify a weight.
- **Proportions:** the body is slightly longer than it is tall, with a height-to-length ratio of 10:11.
- **Coat:** pure white, with a straight, stand-off outer coat and a short, soft, dense undercoat.
- **Temperament:** the ideal is intelligent, cheerful and alert. A Japanese Spitz may give an alert bark, but should not be habitually noisy, fearful or aggressive.
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, scent work and mental tasks, and early training around sounds, visitors and being left alone.

A Japanese Spitz can resemble a small Samoyed or a white German Spitz, but these are separate breeds with different standards and histories. Appearance alone cannot tell you how they compare in temperament, size or health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Japanese Spitz is sturdy yet elegant, without exaggerated proportions. Its pointed muzzle, dark almond-shaped eyes and small triangular ears create an alert expression. The back should be short and level, and movement should be quick and active. The tail is carried over the back but should not be tightly curled.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is straight and stands away from the body, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. Hair is shorter on the face, ears and fronts of the legs, but longer over the body. The ruff around the neck and chest and the well-feathered tail are especially prominent. Pure white is the only accepted colour.

A thorough brush and comb down to the skin about once a week is usually a sound starting point. Work through small sections so the comb reaches the undercoat, paying particular attention behind the ears. More frequent grooming is needed during a moult. The Swedish Kennel Club describes females as often moulting twice a year and adult males usually once, although timing and volume vary.

Bathing should be based on dirt and need, not a fixed timetable. A white coat does not have to be washed whenever it becomes dusty. Introduce a puppy calmly to a brush, comb and paw handling before a full grooming session is necessary.

## Temperament & Personality

The Japanese Spitz notices changes in its surroundings quickly and generally likes to stay close to its family. The breed standard describes it as intelligent, cheerful and alert. Some individuals have little interest in interacting with unfamiliar people or dogs. Reserve is not the same as fear: panic, threats or difficulty recovering are different from calm self-possession.

Barking needs a balanced explanation. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed description says the Japanese Spitz is quick to bark, while the standard says it should not be noisy. These statements are compatible when a brief alert is distinguished from barking that continues at every sound. The aim is not to remove the dog's awareness, but to help it notice a sound at the door and then settle again.

Barking, shyness and fear of unfamiliar people recurred in the breed club's owner surveys in 2014 and 2020. The respondents were self-selected and the question was broad, so the answers do not show how common any trait is across the breed. If possible, meet the puppy's mother in an everyday setting, ask how close relatives respond to visitors and sounds in communal hallways, and read any BPH behaviour descriptions as profiles rather than scores.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who is willing to train actively and address barking consistently. It is a poorer fit for someone who assumes that a companion breed will automatically be quiet, always come when called or greet everyone enthusiastically.

## Training & Exercise

An adult Japanese Spitz needs physical and mental activity every day, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. Vary walks, sniffing, play and short co-operative tasks. Rally obedience, nose work, agility, tracking, tricks and everyday training are all possible choices; match them to the dog's health, interests and fitness.

Judge the amount by recovery. The dog should be able to settle and move without stiffness after rest. A dog that alerts to every small disturbance may need clearer rest, scent work or better training around distractions — not necessarily a longer walk. Puppies need short, playful experiences suited to their age, not a miniature adult routine.

Reward-based, progressive training makes good use of the breed's attention and willingness to work. First identify what triggers barking: the doorbell, a lift, people outside a window or excitement during play. Create distance or block the view, and reward the dog while it can still remain quiet and engage with you. Then teach a simple alternative, such as going to a mat when the bell rings. Punishment may increase anxiety without changing how the dog feels about the sound.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed's hunting instinct as relatively low, but that does not guarantee safe off-lead exercise or a reliable recall. Begin in an easy setting, increase distractions gradually and use a long line until the dog responds to the first cue even when something moves. A percentage for recall tells you less than the dog's behaviour in the place where you intend to let it off the lead.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Japanese Spitz as generally healthy, with few breed-specific diseases, but a puppy buyer should still examine knees, eyes, heart and relevant family history. One normal test cannot replace information about parents, siblings and previous offspring.

**Patellar luxation**, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. In its published breeding strategy, the breed club recommends a voluntary patella examination at around two years of age, when the dog is physically mature. Ask for the parents' official results and whether relatives have had recurring lameness, difficulty jumping, or reluctance to run and turn sharply.

**Eyes and heart** are also monitored voluntarily. The breeding strategy records a small number of PRA diagnoses in older dogs and recommends regular eye examinations for breeding dogs, especially after six years of age. It also notes a small number of older dogs with heart murmurs and MMVD. The advice is for a vet to listen to the heart at routine visits and arrange an ultrasound if a murmur is found. This is surveillance, not evidence that every dog will be affected or that an old normal result provides lifetime clearance.

**X-linked muscular dystrophy** has been documented in a limited number of Irish families, and researchers have developed a DNA test for the mutation. The breed club's strategy states that no cases were known outside the affected Irish families. DNA testing is therefore particularly relevant when a pedigree includes Irish ancestry: ask for the genetic status of the relevant branch. There is no evidence, however, that a specific PRA DNA test should be routine for the whole breed.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose any breed-specific health-testing requirements on the Japanese Spitz, and the breed has no compulsory central health programme. Patella, eye and heart checks are voluntary breed-club recommendations. Always check the latest rules before breeding and distinguish binding conditions from recommendations.

## History & Origins

The Japanese Spitz was developed in Japan during the first half of the twentieth century. The official standard cautiously says that the breed is thought to descend in part from white German Grossspitz brought to Japan via Siberia and north-eastern China around 1920. That is a documented account of its background, not a reason to describe the modern breed as a variety of German Spitz.

White spitz dogs were shown in Tokyo around 1921. Two pairs were imported from Canada in 1925, followed by further dogs from Canada, the United States, Australia and China up to 1936. These dogs were crossed to establish a more consistent breed type. After the Second World War, the Japan Kennel Club wrote the standard adopted in 1948.

More detailed claims involving Samoyeds, American Eskimo Dogs or other breeds in the early breeding programme are common, but they are not supported by the history in the official standard. It is therefore best to keep documented import routes separate from later theories.

## Living with the Breed

A Japanese Spitz can live in a flat, but noise becomes a more important consideration. Can you hear the lift, entrance door or neighbours? Place the dog's bed away from the front door and windows overlooking passing activity, and reward calm behaviour before alerting becomes a habit. Easy access to good walking and training areas matters more than the number of rooms.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also differ widely. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, use very brief absences and extend them only while the dog can rest without barking, pacing or showing stress. A camera can show what happens after the door closes. If anxiety increases, shorten the absence and return to an easier stage rather than pushing on.

With children, adult supervision and the dog's right to an undisturbed resting place matter more than the breed label. Teach children not to carry, hug or disturb the dog while it is eating or sleeping. With other dogs, cats and small animals, previous experience and individual behaviour matter more than the general statement about relatively low hunting instinct. Introduce a cat and dog at a distance, using a gate or lead, prevent chasing and give the cat high places to retreat to. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is stable.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- How do the parents and close relatives respond to sounds at the door, visitors and new places?
- What dated patella and eye results are available, and what does the breeder know about heart or mobility problems among relatives?
- Is there Irish ancestry and, if so, is the muscular-dystrophy status of the relevant branch known?
- How have the puppies practised handling, everyday sounds, rest and brief separations?

The best match is a home that appreciates an alert, trainable companion and is prepared to work calmly on noise and self-control. The white coat is the most visible feature, but in daily life how readily the dog barks, how quickly it recovers and whether it can settle determine whether the breed is a good fit.

Japanese Spitz

The Japanese Spitz is a small to medium, people‑oriented companion with a pure white double coat that’s easy to maintain with regular brushing. Lively, intelligent, and trainable, it suits apartments with daily exercise. Naturally alert and vocal, it is usually friendly once introduced.

Familjekennel med inriktning på bra familjehundar uppf i hemmiljö tränas och socialiseras .koppelvana och åker bil .mkt hanterade träffar barn påbörjas rumsrenhets träning allt för ej allt ska vara nytt när valpen flyttar bara fortsätta valparna ksn flytta när dom blivit 8 v  är då Reg skk doldafelf 3år vac chip

Kennel Alegros

## Quick Facts

The Irish Setter is a medium-sized, energetic pointing dog from Ireland with a strong hunting drive and a breed ideal that emphasises an affectionate nature. On Get a Pet, the breed is called **Irish Setter**. In the Swedish Kennel Club's breed standard, it is called the **Irish Red Setter**; this is the solid-red breed, not the Irish Red and White Setter, which is a separate breed.

- **Breed group:** Group 7, pointing dogs
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Original purpose:** To search for gamebirds, point them, flush the bird on command and retrieve after the shot
- **Height at the withers:** 58–67 cm for males and 55–62 cm for females
- **Weight:** Not specified in the breed standard
- **Activity level:** High; the breed needs both physical activity and tasks that engage its nose and ability to work with a handler every day
- **Best suited to:** An active home that wants to train regularly and can manage hunting drive, recall and a substantial need for movement

This is not primarily a companion dog with a fixed exercise schedule. The breed was developed to work across large areas, and that background is evident in its speed, stamina, independence and interest in bird scent.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Setter should be athletic, balanced and built for fast, sustained movement—not heavy or excessively coated. According to the standard, males should stand 58–67 cm at the withers and females 55–62 cm. The standard does not specify a weight, so an appropriate body condition must be assessed on the individual dog.

The colour is a rich chestnut red with no black. Small white markings may be permitted under the standard, but an Irish Setter should not be confused with the separately recognised Irish Red and White Setter.

The coat is short and fine on the head, the fronts of the legs and the tips of the ears. On the rest of the body, it is moderately long and should lie as flat and free from curl or wave as possible. There is longer, silky feathering on the ears and legs, among other areas. The coat should enhance a functional dog, not obscure the body's outline or impede movement.

Coat care should be based on the dog's actual needs, not a fixed weekly schedule. Check the feathering, the coat around the ears and neck, and the hair around the feet after outings in rough ground. Gently work out developing tangles before they tighten, and remove seeds, twigs and dirt. This is not a traditionally clipped breed, but stray or tangle-prone hair around the ears, neck and feet can be tidied carefully. Excessive shaping does not belong to the breed's functional appearance.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Setter's breed ideal is intense, intelligent, energetic, affectionate and loyal, but friendliness does not automatically make the breed easy. Its strong hunting drive and ability to work at a distance mean that a young or untrained dog can be fast, easily distracted and difficult to reach when the surroundings become more interesting than the handler.

When its needs are met, the breed can be calm and pleasant indoors and highly intense outside. This is a useful description of the breed's two modes, but it is not a guarantee for every individual. Inheritance, upbringing, recovery, training and the everyday environment all influence how a dog behaves at home.

An Irish Setter can suit a committed first-time owner, but not someone looking for a dog that is satisfied with ordinary lead walks and a little weekend activity. The owner needs to enjoy training even when progress comes gradually and be able to prevent hunting drive from becoming a safety problem.

Labels such as “hunting line” and “show line” are not enough to predict everyday behaviour. Instead, ask how the parents and adult close relatives behave at home, how they work outside, how readily they settle and what hunting or other working achievements they actually have. Variation can occur both between and within litters.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Setter needs substantial daily activity, but no single number of hours is right for every adult dog. Age, health, fitness, the individual and the content of the activity determine the load. A slow walk and a search exercise in open ground may take the same amount of time while placing very different demands on the dog.

The breed's original way of working explains what often motivates it: the dog searches quickly and systematically for gamebirds, points when it locates the game, flushes on the handler's command and retrieves after the shot. A companion dog does not need to take part in practical hunting, but everyday life should provide outlets for the same core traits through activities such as movement over varied terrain, scent work, search exercises, retrieving and tasks that require contact with the handler.

Build recall early in a quiet environment and increase distractions gradually. With this breed's hunting drive, a securely enclosed area or a long line is a safer intermediate step than taking a chance off lead. A long line should be attached to a harness and used well away from traffic. Off-lead freedom should come only when the dog can disengage and return even when scent, birds or movement compete for its attention.

For a puppy, short walks, play, environmental learning and simple cooperative exercises are better building blocks than an adult dog's workload. Increase the load gradually and allow plenty of sleep and recovery. The often-repeated “five-minute rule”—five minutes of exercise per month of age—has no scientific support as a universal model and should not replace an assessment of the puppy's size, development and response to the activity.

## Health

For the Irish Setter, it is important to distinguish between conditions that may occur, formal Swedish breeding requirements and test results that are centrally recorded and displayed. A long list of diagnoses tells a puppy buyer less than documented results for the parents and an open account of health among close relatives.

- **Hip dysplasia (HD):** Parent dogs must have an official hip status before mating for the offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The breed also has an HD index. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that the parents' average index be above 100 at the time of mating, and the breed-specific rule states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.
- **CLAD:** Canine leukocyte adhesion deficiency is a serious defect of the white blood cells and is inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. The previous requirement for a DNA test or hereditarily clear status for litter registration was removed in 2014, but results can still be recorded centrally. The breed club continues to recommend testing foreign and imported breeding dogs whose status is unknown.
- **rcd4-PRA:** This is a specific, recessively inherited form of the retinal disease PRA. Following a decision in 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club records and publishes DNA results for Irish Setters in Hunddata and Avelsdata. The test shows the dog's status for the specific rcd4 mutation; it does not rule out other forms of PRA.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' registered hip results and explain the mating's HD index. Also request documented CLAD and rcd4 status and an explanation of how the results informed the mating. Check the information in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata rather than relying on verbal assurances. In addition, ask about recurring disease, mobility problems, eye problems and longevity in parents, siblings and older close relatives. This gives a more relevant picture than assuming that every individual will develop everything ever reported in the breed.

## History & Origins

The Irish Red Setter was developed in Ireland as a working hunting dog, and the modern breed's history is closely tied to gamebird hunting. According to the breed standard, it descends from the Irish Red and White Setter combined with an unknown solid-red dog. A recognisable type existed in Ireland during the 1700s.

The Irish Red Setter Club was founded in 1882 and published a breed standard in 1886. This helped define the identity and characteristics of the solid-red breed. The first imported dogs arrived in Sweden in the 1890s, and the Swedish Irish Setter Club was founded in 1910.

At the core of the breed standard is a functional dog with speed, strength, stamina and a friendly expression. The history is therefore more than background: it explains why hunting drive, a need for movement and work with a handler remain central to life with the breed today.

## Living with the Breed

The Irish Setter is best suited to an active home that can provide daily movement, training and recovery, whether the home is a house or a flat. A garden does not replace activity, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. In a flat, quick access to suitable exercise areas, practical daily routines, noise levels and the dog's ability to settle become particularly important.

The breed can become a warm and close family member, but “good with children” should not be taken to mean risk-free. A large, fast and playful dog can knock over a small child without meaning to. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Adults must remain responsible for walks, exercise and training.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and how introductions are managed. Early exposure is no guarantee, especially with a dog bred to react to bird scent and movement. When introducing a cat, the animals should first have separate safe areas, the cat should have clear escape routes, and early meetings should be calm and use a barrier or lead. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is well understood.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in how easily they learn. Start with very short, uneventful periods when the dog feels secure and increase the duration only when it can relax. A home in which the dog will regularly be left alone for a full working day without help is a poor match.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Does daily life have room for meaningful activity even on dark, rainy working days? Can you train recall and manage the dog safely before it is reliable off lead? Can the breeder show health records and describe the parents as individuals, rather than only by a line label? If any answer is no, it is sensible to choose a less demanding breed or wait.

Irish Setter

The Irish Setter Club of Germany

The Irish Setter Breeders Club (UK)

Graceful Irish gundog with a mahogany red, feathered coat needing regular grooming. Medium‑large, athletic and high‑energy, it thrives on daily vigorous exercise and mental work. Affectionate, people‑oriented and playful, it’s good with families but needs consistent, positive training.

En Irländsk setter född 2016 och en annan född 2022 bildar ett generationsspår för Hot Sensation i Bro. Den äldre hundens mor bär också Hot Sensation's-prefixet. Hos den yngre återkommer prefixet hos båda föräldrarna, där modern är samma hund från 2016. Officiella SKK-kataloger anger Bro som uppfödarort i båda fallen. Dokumentationen följer därmed kennelnamnet genom tre generationer.

Hot Sensation

Bonpi's

## Quick Facts

The Dobermann is a German working breed for someone who wants to train, cooperate and keep their dog close in everyday life. The breed learns quickly, is physically strong and often forms a very close bond with its family. It needs an owner who can provide both purposeful activity and clear periods of rest — not just long walks.

- **A good fit if:** you want to work actively on everyday obedience, scent work or dog sport and have time for daily companionship.
- **A poorer fit if:** the dog will regularly be left alone for whole working days or is largely expected to exercise itself.
- **The key question when buying a puppy:** what is known about the heart health and temperament of the parents and close relatives, and can the breeder show dated results?
- **Size:** males 68–72 cm and about 40–45 kg; females 63–68 cm and about 32–35 kg, according to the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and without an undercoat; easy to care for but with limited protection from cold and wet weather.
- **Main health challenge:** dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, which can develop without visible signs.

A Dobermann can suit a committed first-time owner, but training and safe handling need to begin immediately. Access to a good puppy class, continuing support from an instructor and a realistic daily plan matter more than the label ‘experienced dog owner’.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dobermann is a medium-sized, powerful and almost squarely built dog that should combine muscle with elegance. The FCI standard recognises two colours: black or brown, both with clearly defined rust-red markings.

The ears are left natural and should ideally lie close to the cheeks. The tail is also natural and is ideally carried high in a slight curve. In Sweden, cropping the ears or docking the tail is prohibited unless the procedure is necessary for veterinary reasons.

The short, smooth coat normally needs only occasional brushing and a bath when the dog is dirty. Check the nails, ears, skin and paws at the same time. The coat has no undercoat, and short-haired dogs can become cold more quickly than well-coated breeds. Adapt to the individual dog, the weather and the activity: a well-fitting coat can be sensible in cold or wet conditions or during periods of inactivity. Dry the dog after wet walks and keep it moving when outside in cold weather.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, calm, self-confident and willing worker with a good connection to its handler. Many Dobermanns are playful, attentive and closely attached to their family. They notice changes around them quickly and usually want to be involved, which can create a very close working relationship.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every dog. Information from the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club shows that sociability and fears still need to be taken seriously. Look at the complete MH profiles of both parents rather than merely checking that they ‘have done MH’. MH records the dog’s reactions; it does not award a pass or fail. Pay particular attention to contact with people, fears, recovery and response to gunshot, and ask how siblings and older relatives behave in everyday life.

Dobermanns often have an interest in chasing and may react quickly to movement. Whether a dog can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and training. A breed name can never promise trouble-free relationships. Ask the breeder to describe the parents’ social behaviour in concrete terms and plan new introductions calmly and under control.

## Training & Exercise

A Dobermann needs physical activity and purposeful mental work every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, temperament and fitness determine the appropriate load. For an adult dog, the best routine combines walks and time to move freely with short training sessions, scent work and recovery.

Prioritise skills that make a strong, watchful dog safe to live with:

- walking on a loose lead and keeping in touch despite distractions
- recall and the ability to break focus on wildlife or other movement
- calm behaviour at the door, with visitors, around other dogs and during handling
- waiting, settling and giving up items on cue
- scent work, tracking or searching in which the dog has a clear task to solve

Train with rewards, clarity and consistency. High expectations without understandable guidance do not create stability. Vary the tasks and finish while the dog is still succeeding. A Dobermann also needs to learn how to switch off; more speed is not always the answer to stress or restlessness.

Puppies and adolescents should not follow an adult dog’s exercise programme. Focus on play, gradual exposure to the environment, body awareness and short skills sessions, then increase the load as the dog matures. Anyone planning to cycle, run long distances or take part in demanding dog sport should time the start according to the individual dog’s development and veterinary advice.

## Health

DCM is the most important health risk to understand before buying a Dobermann. The disease weakens the heart muscle and can cause abnormal rhythms. It can be present at a preclinical stage, when the dog appears healthy, and a normal result on one occasion does not rule out disease developing later.

A full DCM screen includes both echocardiography and a 24-hour Holter ECG. The ultrasound assesses the dimensions and pumping function of the heart, among other things, while the Holter records its rhythm over a full day. Results are recorded centrally under the Swedish Kennel Club’s level 1 programme, but level 1 does not make the examination a registration requirement. A dog must be at least three years old to receive an official normal status, and the result is valid for 12 months. The Swedish Dobermann Club recommends that breeding dogs aged three or over have a full screen within a year before mating.

Ask to see the date and both parts of each parent’s screen. Also ask about heart health, lifespan and causes of death among older close relatives. A DNA test cannot replace echocardiography and Holter monitoring, and the phrase ‘heart tested’ is insufficient without the method, date and result.

Other documented problems in the breed include hip dysplasia, the eye condition PHTVL/PHPV, von Willebrand disease, which affects blood clotting, and Wobbler syndrome, which affects the cervical spine and nervous system. Wobbler syndrome can, among other signs, cause neck pain or difficulty coordinating movement. Such changes, as well as fainting or a marked loss of stamina, require veterinary assessment.

For Swedish litter registration, the parents must have official hip dysplasia status. Parents resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have ‘known mental status’. For dogs born in 2016 or later, this means a complete MH with all 33 entries completed; the handler may decline the gunshot component. The breed has an HD index, the parents’ average index at mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded D or E must not be used for breeding.

The published breed-specific breeding strategy recommends a vWD test unless the dog’s clear status is established by parentage, with at least one genetically clear parent, and also covers PHTVL/PHPV. Distinguish such breed-club guidance from the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules and ask for current eye examination results. Check the information yourself in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata services. Healthy, tested parents reduce risk but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The Dobermann was developed in Apolda, Germany, during the 1870s and is named after Friedrich Louis Dobermann. He worked as a tax collector and dog catcher, among other roles, and selected dogs with clear guarding and working qualities. The FCI history particularly identifies the ‘butcher’s dogs’ of the period, a forerunner of the Rottweiler, and a black, rust-marked shepherd type from Thuringia as important foundations.

The dogs were used early on as farm, guard and police dogs. This helps explain the breed’s combination of attentiveness, courage, connection with its handler and desire to work. Today, the Dobermann remains a working and sporting dog, but can also be a companion and family dog in a home able to meet the same need for cooperation and purposeful tasks.

## Living with the Breed

A Dobermann does not require one particular type of home, but it does require a workable daily routine. Flat living can work if the dog is active outdoors, can settle indoors and does not become watchful at every sound. Think practically about noise carrying between homes, access to outdoor space and an undisturbed resting place.

The breed often wants to stay close and is not suited to being left alone for whole days on a regular basis. A young puppy cannot be left alone. An adult trained to cope alone can generally manage a few hours, but individual differences are considerable. Increase the time in small steps and arrange help if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress.

With children, a stable and well-trained Dobermann can be a close member of the family, but its size and speed require adult supervision. A dog and a small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically control.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can I give the dog work and recovery every day? Can I handle a strong dog safely when something unexpected happens? Can the breeder show clear, dated records for hearts, hips, temperament and close relatives? If any answer is no, it is wiser to wait or choose a less demanding breed.

Dobermann

Verein für Deutsche Hunde (VDH)

Dobermann Club of the United Kingdom

The Dobermann is a medium‑large, athletic German working dog with a short, sleek coat and rust markings. Highly intelligent, loyal and people‑oriented, it needs extensive daily exercise, training and close companionship. Naturally alert, its temperament depends heavily on breeding and socialisation.

Svenska Dobermannklubbens stamböcker dokumenterar Lealines i Hörby genom två Dobermann-kullar, födda i augusti 2019 och mars 2020. I en officiell NKK-katalog från 2025 återkommer kennelnamnet på en Dobermann född 2023, åter med Hörby som uppfödarort. Källorna ger den som jämför uppfödare tre daterade nedslag i samma rasinriktning över fyra år.

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