## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Lill Tibben

## Quick Facts

The American Staffordshire Terrier, often called the Amstaff, is an American terrier in FCI Group 3. Compact and exceptionally strong, it is now primarily kept as a companion. The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys active training and is prepared to take responsibility for a powerful dog in everyday situations.

- The desired height at the withers is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females.
- The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 28–33 kg for males and 19–25 kg for females, but healthy body condition and balanced proportions matter more than a single figure.
- The coat is short, close, stiff and glossy, and is generally easy to maintain.
- The breed ideal is an alert, courageous and interested dog. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes the Amstaff as sociable, active and willing to cooperate, although individuals can differ considerably.
- Anyone planning to travel with the dog must check the route in advance: the American Staffordshire Terrier is subject to breed bans in both Norway and Denmark.

The American Staffordshire Terrier is a recognised breed with its own standard. A broad skull, short coat and muscular body are therefore not enough to identify a dog as an Amstaff. For a prospective puppy owner, a registered pedigree and information about the parents are much more useful than assumptions based on appearance.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Staffordshire Terrier should be strong for its size, muscular and compact, yet still agile and mobile. Its build should look balanced rather than so heavy or exaggerated that movement is affected. The desired height is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females. The standard requires height and weight to be in proportion but gives no weight range. The Swedish Kennel Club's figures are therefore a practical approximation, not a target weight that every dog should reach.

The coat lies close to the body and is short, stiff and glossy. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt will often remove loose hair, while bathing can be reserved for when it is genuinely needed. Calmly accustom a puppy to having its paws, nails, ears, mouth and skin checked. This makes both routine care and future veterinary examinations easier.

Solid, parti-colour and patched coats are permitted. All-white coats, coats that are more than 80 per cent white, black and tan, and liver are not encouraged under the standard. Colour does not reliably predict temperament or health. Redness, itching, persistent paw licking or changes in the ears should be assessed as symptoms, not attributed to coat colour.

## Temperament & Personality

An American Staffordshire Terrier should be alert, curious and courageous, but breed descriptions express an ideal and population averages, not the temperament of every dog. The Swedish Kennel Club's behavioural assessment data show relatively high sociability and energy at breed level, alongside substantial variation between individuals. Upbringing, experience and training matter, but the behaviour of close relatives is also relevant when choosing a puppy.

Ask the breeder to explain the parents' BPH behavioural assessments and, where available, their mental index using specific everyday examples. Find out how they respond to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces, handling and other dogs. Ideally, meet the dam and other close relatives. The label ‘sociable’ reveals far less than a description of how a dog recovers after an unexpected event.

This is a physically powerful breed that can be forceful. Calm, managed encounters are therefore more valuable than expecting the dog to greet everyone. Neither breed nor sex can determine whether an Amstaff will live safely with a particular dog, cat or small animal. Assess the individual dog's previous experience, interest in chasing or play, and ability to disengage and settle.

When introducing a cat, make sure the cat has protected spaces and can leave at any time. Use a gate or another secure barrier, keep early sessions short and calm, and prevent chasing from the outset. Do not leave the animals alone together until their behaviour is well understood, and accept that some pairings will never be safe.

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a family with children, but an adult must always take responsibility for their interactions. Children should leave the dog undisturbed while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a protected space of its own. Because of the breed's strength, children should not handle the dog alone in situations where a sudden lunge or encounter with another dog may be difficult to control.

## Training & Exercise

The American Staffordshire Terrier needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no single number of hours that suits every dog. A young dog, a fit adult and a dog with pain or joint disease require different plans. Adjust the level to age, health, recovery and how the dog behaves at home after exercise. The aim is a well-conditioned dog that can switch between activity and rest, not a dog exhausted at any cost.

Walks can be combined with scent work, tracking, obedience and short problem-solving activities. The Swedish Kennel Club highlights nosework, tracking and obedience as suitable pursuits. Increase duration and load gradually, and keep the dog at a healthy body condition. If the dog suddenly moves differently, hesitates before jumping into the car or recovers more slowly, ask a vet to investigate the cause. Do not try to solve the change by adding more exercise.

Everyday training should begin early and use rewards, clear routines and manageable steps. The following skills are particularly useful for a strong American Staffordshire Terrier:

- walking on a loose lead and turning away from an approaching dog;
- a well-rehearsed recall and a cue to leave an object or situation;
- calm greetings without jumping or pulling;
- waiting and settling calmly behind a gate or other barrier;
- relaxed handling of paws, nails, ears, mouth and body.

Training that relies on pain, fear or harsh corrections can damage both trust and learning. Reward the behaviour you want, make an exercise easier when the dog struggles, and seek help from a knowledgeable trainer early if the dog's strength or reactions become difficult to manage.

## Health

Hips, elbows, skin and cruciate ligaments are important areas to ask about in the American Staffordshire Terrier. The Swedish Kennel Club identifies hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cruciate ligament problems and skin conditions involving itching, rashes, red paws and allergy. This does not mean every dog will be affected. Ask for specific information about parents, siblings and previous litters rather than accepting a general claim of ‘healthy lines’.

For Swedish-registered breeding, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; American Staffordshire Terriers must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. A recorded result only means that the assessment exists, not that the joint is necessarily unaffected, so check the actual grades. The breed club's breeding strategy also recommends that a proposed litter's preliminary hip and elbow indices exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with the registration rules.

NCL-A is an inherited neurological disorder that affects the cerebellum and can cause balance and coordination problems, often first appearing between three and five years of age. It is inherited as an autosomal recessive condition with incomplete penetrance. DNA results are recorded as normal, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding. Ask to see the registered results and understand how the proposed pairing has been planned.

When assessing a litter, check:

- the parents' exact hip and elbow results and the litter's preliminary indices;
- NCL-A status and how the results affect the proposed mating;
- BPH assessments and mental index where available, supported by examples of close relatives' everyday behaviour;
- skin disease, cruciate injuries and other recurring problems among parents, siblings and earlier offspring.

## History & Origins

The American Staffordshire Terrier developed in the United States from bull-and-terrier dogs brought by immigrants during the nineteenth century. The American parent club records dogs of this type in the country by about 1870. The history includes a background in dog fighting, but the modern breed's official standard and breeding should be judged against today's expectations for function, health and temperament.

In 1936, the American Kennel Club admitted the dogs to its Stud Book as Staffordshire Terriers. The name changed to American Staffordshire Terrier on 1 January 1972 to distinguish the breed from the newly recognised Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The first American Staffordshire Terrier was registered with the Swedish Kennel Club in 1991.

These dates explain the changes in name, but they do not make every similar-looking dog the same breed. For today's puppy buyer, a verifiable pedigree, documented health information and knowledge of close relatives are more valuable than loose labels such as ‘pit bull type’.

## Living with the Breed

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough activity, recovery time and a secure routine. The size of the home matters less than how daily life is organised. In a block of flats, the owner must be able to manage the dog safely in corridors, lifts and confined spaces, prevent nuisance noise and arrange walks without every outing being dominated by difficult encounters with other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a settled adult should, after careful training, be left for only a few hours at a time. The Swedish rule that dogs must normally be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a recommended duration for leaving a dog alone. Plan for the puppy stage, working days and backup care before the dog arrives.

Think about physical control as well. A harness or collar must fit securely, the lead should provide a reliable grip, and the person walking the dog must be able to hold it if something unexpected happens. This is not an argument for harsh methods; it is a practical consequence of the breed's strength. Planning ahead, creating distance and teaching alternative behaviours prevent more problems than corrections delivered too late.

Travel requires particular care. American Staffordshire Terriers and their crosses are prohibited in Norway, including import into the country. Denmark also prohibits the breed and its crosses from being brought in for a stay. Denmark has a limited exception for direct transit by car without unnecessary stops, but this does not permit a holiday in the country, and rail travel is not covered by the exception. Rules can change, so always check current guidance from Norway's Mattilsynet and the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration before booking a journey or choosing a route.

The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys structured training, can provide daily activity and has the capacity to manage a dog that is both sociable and physically demanding. If a household cannot make time for separation training, safe introductions, lead training and careful health follow-up, a less powerful or less demanding breed is often a better choice.

American Staffordshire Terrier

The Kennel Club (UK)

American Staffordshire Terrier: muscular, medium-sized, people-focused dog with a short, easy-care coat in many colors. Affectionate, energetic, and highly trainable with consistent, positive handling. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, socialization, and responsible management.

Northstar

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Wellcakes

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

Rusch

## Quick Facts

- The Chinese Crested Dog is a small companion dog with two coat varieties: hairless and powder puff. Both can be born in the same litter.
- The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard does not specify an official weight.
- The hairless variety has a crest on its head, so-called socks on its feet and a plume on its tail. The powder puff has a long, soft coat over its entire body.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful dog that should never be vicious. Even so, there are clear individual differences in sociability, curiosity, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- Skin or coat care, tooth brushing and protection suited to the weather need to be part of everyday life from the outset.
- When choosing a puppy, eye examination results, PLL status, dental status and the health and temperament of close relatives matter more than general promises about the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chinese Crested Dog is small, active and graceful without necessarily being fragile. The breed includes both the elegant deer type and the somewhat heavier cobby type. The body should be moderately long to long, with a level back and long, flowing, free movement. All colours and colour combinations are permitted.

The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard gives no weight, so the figure of 5.4 kg as an upper limit should not be treated as the modern ideal. Assess an adult dog by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead.

In the hairless variety, the body should be largely bare, with long hair on the head, feet and tail. The amount of body hair nevertheless varies between individuals. Ask to see the puppy before it has been trimmed, and ask the breeder to demonstrate how that particular dog's skin and furnishings should be cared for. The skin should be fine, soft and warm to the touch.

The powder puff has a thin undercoat covered by a veil of long, soft hair. The coat should be flowing rather than heavy or woolly. Part the coat and comb all the way down to the skin. Pay particular attention to early tangles wherever hair is dense or subject to friction. A weekly routine for bathing and checking the coat can be a starting point, but its condition should determine how often it needs detangling, washing and thorough drying.

Hairless skin needs to be checked for chafing, redness, spots and dryness. Young dogs can develop blackheads and spots during periods of hormonal change, although the extent varies greatly. Provide shade and suitable clothing when sun, wind, wet weather or cold make it necessary. A powder puff may also need weather protection because its fine coat provides relatively little warmth and is not particularly water-resistant. If the skin remains inflamed or itchy, or develops sores that do not heal, a vet should assess the cause and help with the choice of products.

Neither the hairless variety nor the powder puff is allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, and levels also vary between dogs of the same breed. A small amount of loose hair is therefore no guarantee for a family affected by allergies.

## Temperament & Personality

The Chinese Crested Dog should be cheerful and not vicious, but the breed encompasses many different personalities. In data from Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment, the dogs assessed appeared relatively confident, moderately curious and not generally vocal or aggressive. The same data show considerable variation in how dogs greet unfamiliar people, play and respond to unexpected events.

That is more useful than labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog”. One individual may seek a great deal of physical contact, while another may be more independent. Some greet visitors immediately; others prefer to observe first. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives cope with handling, new people, noise, settling and brief separations. Look for a puppy that can explore at its own pace and recover after something unexpected.

The breed can be alert and may bark when something happens, but that does not mean every dog is very vocal. In a home where noise carries easily, it is sensible to reward calm behaviour around doors, windows and sounds in communal areas from an early age. Find out whether the dog can also settle when nothing is happening. The ability to rest matters just as much as playfulness.

With children, the interaction matters more than the breed label. The dog's small size calls for extra care if children want to pick it up or carry it, but there is no general rule that the breed is suitable only for older children. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no well-founded time formula that suits every dog. A good day might include walks with time to sniff, play, a short skills session and calm recovery. An active individual may enjoy longer outings, agility, rally obedience, heelwork to music or tracking, while another may prefer less demanding activities.

Adjust duration and intensity to the dog's age, fitness, the weather, its movement and how well it recovers. A hairless dog that tenses up in the cold is not having a worthwhile walk simply because a target duration has been reached. Choose protection and surroundings to suit the conditions, and add indoor training when needed.

Reward-based training works well for teaching everyday skills. Start with recall, walking on a lead, settling in one place, leaving objects and stopping an activity when asked. Also practise cooperative handling of the mouth, feet, skin, coat and ears. This makes tooth brushing, bathing, clipping and veterinary visits less stressful.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy has to greet everyone. Instead, let it encounter different people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and environments at a distance where it can still eat, think and choose whether to make contact. If it becomes frightened, make the situation easier and give it time to recover. This builds greater confidence than forcing an encounter.

## Health

There are no breed-specific health tests that must be completed before a Chinese Crested Dog litter can be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, SKK. The breed club does, however, issue clear breeding recommendations. The distinction matters when assessing a litter: guidance can be highly relevant without being mandatory.

The breed club states that both parents should have an eye examination no earlier than 18 months of age, with a certificate no more than one year old at the time of mating. It also states that both should have a known DNA status for primary lens luxation, PLL. In addition, it recommends a known DNA status for prcd-PRA and a known patellar status established from 12 months of age. A patellar examination is therefore an important point to check, but it is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Veterinary auscultation of the heart before breeding is described as desirable, rather than as a formal requirement or recommendation in the club's “must” and “should” categories.

Ask to see the result itself, its date and the dog's identity. A DNA test applies only to the mutation analysed and does not replace a clinical eye examination. A healthy carrier of a simple recessive condition does not automatically have to be excluded from breeding, but should be mated to a genetically clear dog so that affected puppies are not born. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

Eye conditions highlighted in the breed include PLL, different forms of PRA or retinopathy, and dry eye. Ask about examination results and symptoms in older relatives as well. The breed club's health review also discusses heart conditions that tend to appear later in life and indications of back problems. These findings justify questions about older relatives and early heart murmurs or back symptoms; they do not mean that every dog will become ill.

Hairlessness and dentition are linked through a variant of the FOXI3 gene, which affects the development of both hair and teeth. Hairless dogs may therefore lack some permanent teeth or have unusually shaped, forward-pointing teeth. Powder puffs do not have this specific genetic effect and should normally have a complete scissor bite. Congenitally missing teeth are not the same as periodontal disease, but both varieties need daily tooth brushing to limit plaque and gum disease. Monitor the change from puppy to adult teeth, and ask a vet to assess retained deciduous teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty chewing.

In a large UK study, median life expectancy was 13.4 years among 928 Chinese Crested Dogs. The confidence interval for the median was 13.0–13.8 years. This result describes the study population, not how long an individual dog will live.

## History & Origins

The breed's early history is uncertain. China is listed as the country of origin and Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard, but it is not possible to trace an unbroken line from ancient Chinese hairless dogs to today's breed. Stories about dogs aboard trading ships, rat-catching and life during the Han dynasty should therefore be treated as theories rather than established facts.

The documented modern milestones are clearer. Chinese Crested Dogs were shown in the United States between 1885 and 1926, after which they were scarcely seen for nearly 50 years. Organised breeding in Britain was re-established with imports from the United States between 1965 and 1968. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1972, the first Swedish litter was born that year, and the dogs were registered with SKK in 1973. The Chinese Crested Club of Sweden was founded in 1990.

## Living with the Breed

The type of home does not by itself determine whether a Chinese Crested Dog will thrive. Both a flat and a house can work if the dog receives activity, rest and gradual training to be left alone. Assess the home in terms of noise, access to suitable places for walks and how easily the dog can get away from draughts, strong sunlight and commotion. A small body does not mean small needs.

A young puppy should not be left alone. Once it feels secure at home, training can begin with the puppy relaxing while you move behind a gate or leave the room very briefly. Increase the time only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can often cope alone for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. A camera can help reveal pacing, panting, barking or an inability to settle.

Cats and other dogs can live successfully with the breed, but low prey drive or trouble-free coexistence cannot be promised on the basis of breed alone. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing, and give the cat a secure escape route and separate resources. Adapt play to the dogs' sizes and communication styles. Small pets should be kept safely apart unless you can control the situation with confidence.

The right home needs to be ready for the differences between the two coat varieties, daily dental care and a dog that needs both closeness and the ability to feel secure on its own. Meet adult relatives if possible, see the puppy untrimmed and check documented health results. These checks say far more than promises that all Chinese Crested Dogs are quiet, allergy-friendly or automatically easy family pets.

Chinese Crested Dog

The Chinese Crested Dog is a fine‑boned toy breed, either hairless with silky crest and furnishings or Powder Puff with a soft full coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, they train well with gentle methods, need protection and care for skin or coat, and moderate daily exercise.

Miroxis

Cins Brownies

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Föder upp bruksschäfer för tävling och tjänst. Trygga stabila trevliga individer, har väldigt fin statistik vad gäller leder och mh-testade hundar.

Duckobell's

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a British cattle-herding and companion breed. It is low to the ground but much more solidly built, powerful and work-focused than its short legs might suggest. It is best suited to someone who wants to train, walk and solve problems with their dog every day.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives 30 cm at the withers as the ideal height. It does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be in proportion to the dog’s size and overall balance.
- **Build:** Long and strong, with short legs, good ground clearance and a long, fox-like tail.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is alert, active, intelligent and steady, neither shy nor aggressive.
- **Activity:** Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation are essential. A fixed number of exercise minutes will not suit every individual.
- **Coat:** A short to medium-length, weather-resistant double coat with an undercoat. Expect shedding and regular brushing.
- **Important when buying a puppy:** Ask to see the parents’ actual hip dysplasia results, and ask about eye examinations, rcd3-PRA and any merle colouring.

The Cardigan and the Welsh Corgi Pembroke are two separate breeds. Do not choose a dog solely because it is called a ‘corgi’ or resembles a short-legged dog in a photograph. Compare the breeds’ everyday needs, meet adult dogs and form your own impression of the breeder’s dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan should be sturdy, mobile and capable of endurance: low-set, but not so low that the body lacks ground clearance. The body is fairly long and strong, with substantial bone and large, erect ears that are slightly rounded at the tips. The moderately long tail reaches to, or nearly to, the ground. It may lift when the dog is moving but should not curl over the back. This long, fox-like tail is a clear feature of the Cardigan standard.

Accepted colours are blue merle, brindle, red, sable, tricolour with brindle points and tricolour with red points. Typical white markings are permitted, but white should not predominate on the body or head and should not surround the eyes. Under the standard, blue or blue-flecked eyes are permitted only in blue merles.

The coat consists of a coarse, preferably straight outer coat and a protective undercoat. Brush through the entire coat regularly and more often when a large amount of undercoat is coming loose. Check that loose undercoat is not becoming packed behind the ears, on the backs of the thighs or around the tail. The timing and amount of shedding vary between dogs; plan for more loose hair at certain times rather than relying on a fixed calendar. Gently accustom the puppy to brushing, nail trimming and other handling from the outset.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Welsh Corgi Cardigan is alert, active, intelligent and steady. That is a useful starting point, but it does not guarantee how every dog will develop. Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results show variation within the breed, while upbringing, experience and individuality affect qualities such as sociability, fearfulness, interest in play and the ability to settle.

Its background as a farm and cattle dog may show in close attention to movement, a desire to monitor its surroundings and a tendency to bark. Some young dogs may also try to control running people or animals and nip towards their legs. These are possible behaviours to anticipate and address through training, not something every Cardigan will do. Interrupt calmly, reward an alternative behaviour and offer structured activities in which the dog can use its nose, body and mind.

Ask the breeder how the parents behave with visitors, in unfamiliar environments and after activity. Meet them where possible. A dog that becomes excited quickly but struggles to settle can be demanding even if it learns readily. In many homes, the ability to switch between activity and rest is at least as important as enthusiasm for training.

## Training & Exercise

A Cardigan needs physical activity and opportunities to think every day, but there is no credible rule in minutes that suits them all. Age, health, fitness and personality determine the right amount. A sound routine combines walks in varied environments with scent work, short training sessions, play and time to recover.

The breed often enjoys tasks that involve working with its owner and making small choices. Tracking, search games, everyday obedience, rally obedience and controlled body-awareness exercises are examples; a dog does not have to herd to lead a fulfilling life. Increase difficulty and physical demands gradually, particularly in a growing dog, and seek advice from a vet or veterinary physiotherapist if the dog is in pain, lame or moving abnormally. Its conformation is not, in itself, a reason to ban all stairs or jumping, but the environment and activity must suit the individual dog.

Use positive, reward-based training in clear stages. Prioritise engagement, recall, walking with you and calm behaviour around bicycles, running children and other movement that may attract the dog’s attention. If the dog barks at the door or window, help it away from the situation before barking becomes a habit, then reward the behaviour you want. Harsh corrections or attempts to ‘dominate’ the dog are unnecessary and may undermine its sense of security.

## Health

The current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Cardigan as generally healthy. In the eye examination results reviewed for the strategy, no single eye disease stood out. This does not mean that every dog is healthy or that health screening is unimportant. For a puppy buyer, documented results are more valuable than general assurances that a line is ‘problem-free’.

### Hips and musculoskeletal health

Since 2025, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. **A known status means that the result is officially recorded; it does not automatically mean that the hips are free from dysplasia.** Ask for the actual grades and invite the breeder to explain the choice of pairing.

The breed club is also monitoring short ulna, in which the ulna stops growing too early and the foreleg may become increasingly bowed. If a growing dog develops a clear change in leg alignment, an outward-turning paw or lameness, it should be assessed promptly by a vet with orthopaedic experience. Treatment may need to start while the dog is still growing, so do not simply wait to see what happens.

### Eyes, rcd3-PRA and merle

Rcd3-PRA is an early-onset, autosomal recessive form of PRA found in the breed. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected. A carrier will not itself develop this particular form of PRA, but can pass the variant on. The test answers only the question of this genetic variant. An eye examination can instead detect clinical eye changes but cannot identify unaffected carriers, so the two forms of screening do not replace each other.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but the merle variant must not be inherited from both parents because the offspring would then be at risk of serious hearing and eye defects. When buying a merle puppy, the breeder should be able to explain the parents’ colours and how the mating complies with Swedish Kennel Club rules.

Keep the dog in an appropriate body condition as well. A defined waist should be visible behind the ribs, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Monitor changes over time instead of pursuing a single standard weight.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan developed in Wales as a farm and cattle dog. It worked closely with the people on the farm and helped to move and manage cattle. This historical function explains the combination of low height, mobility, endurance and close attention to its surroundings.

The breed’s exact age and the dogs from which it descends have not been conclusively established. Older accounts link it to very early Welsh dogs, Celts or Vikings, but these theories should not be treated as a certain lineage. The Swedish Kennel Club states that Cardigans and Pembrokes were interbred until 1934, when they were separated and recognised as two distinct breeds. The first Welsh Corgi Cardigan registered in Sweden arrived in 1963.

The FCI now classifies the breed as a cattle-herding and companion dog. Many live solely as family companions, but their active, work-focused heritage remains relevant when deciding whether everyday life with the breed will be a good fit.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan can live in a flat, but its low height does not automatically make it easy to keep in a small home. It needs daily activity, opportunities to settle and training around sounds in communal hallways and outside windows. A house and garden are no substitute for walks, shared activities and new environments.

Being left alone is not a fixed breed trait. Start with very short periods once the dog feels secure and increase the time gradually; take a step back if it shows signs of distress. Plan around the individual and do not expect a young puppy to cope with being left alone.

The breed can live happily in a family with children, but no breed is automatically safe with children. An adult should always be present when a dog and young children interact, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Teach both children and dog calm boundaries, particularly when play and running may prompt the dog to follow or control movement.

The same individual approach applies to other dogs and cats. Previous experience and a controlled introduction matter more than the breed name. When introducing a cat, provide it with a dog-free retreat, keep meetings calm and prevent chasing from the very beginning.

Before buying, it is sensible to check:

- the parents’ official hip grades, not merely that they have been X-rayed;
- the date and result of eye examinations, as well as rcd3-PRA status;
- how any merle pairing was planned;
- how close relatives respond to sounds, people and dogs, and how well they settle after activity;
- whether you want a daily life that includes shedding, training and daily activity throughout the dog’s lifetime.

This is not the right breed for someone choosing solely for its compact size. A Cardigan is an active, intelligent cattle dog on short legs and needs an owner with both the time and interest to provide a well-planned daily routine.

Welsh Corgi Cardigan

Welsh Corgi League (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a sturdy, long-backed herding dog with a foxlike head and long tail. Energetic and agile despite short legs, it is loyal, watchful and often reserved with strangers. It has a weather-resistant double coat in many colours and needs regular exercise and grooming.

Polish Lowland Sheepdog

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Polish Lowland Sheepdog (Polski Owczarek Nizinny) is a medium, sturdy herding dog with a long, dense, often eye-covering coat. Intelligent and independent, it excels in herding and dog sports, bonds closely with family, needs regular grooming, mental work, and moderate daily exercise.

Lovlipon

## Quick Facts

The Great Dane (Grand danois) is a very large German breed now kept mainly as a companion. It combines power with an elegant build and, according to the breed standard, should be friendly, affectionate and confident. Its size affects every part of ownership: everyday manners, transport, housing, veterinary visits and costs all require more planning than they would with a smaller dog.

- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 2, Pinscher and Schnauzer, Molossoid and Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs
- **Purpose:** companion, guard and protection dog in the breed standard; now primarily a companion
- **Height at the withers:** dogs at least 80 cm and preferably no more than 90 cm; bitches at least 72 cm and preferably no more than 84 cm
- **Coat:** very short, dense, close-lying and glossy, with no undercoat
- **Temperament:** friendly, affectionate and devoted; may be reserved with strangers
- **Questions for the breeder:** ask about hip dysplasia results, heart examinations in the family and any history of gastric dilatation-volvulus

The breed standard does not set a weight range. Figures found in breed guides should therefore be treated as estimates rather than a substitute for assessing an individual dog's body condition, proportions and health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Great Dane is tall, powerful and almost square in outline, without appearing heavy or clumsy. Dogs should be especially close to square, while bitches may be slightly longer in body. The head is long and clearly defined, the natural ears hang down, and the overall impression should balance strength with elegance.

The current standard divides the colours into three varieties: fawn or brindle; harlequin, merle or black; and blue. Merle is therefore included in the present standard, although older breed descriptions do not always reflect this. Each colour has detailed requirements, but a puppy buyer should place health, temperament and sound construction above a particular marking.

The coat is easy to care for but not maintenance-free. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt removes loose hair, particularly in spring and autumn when shedding is often more noticeable. Bathe the dog when it actually needs it and use the opportunity to check the skin, nails, feet, teeth and hanging ears. With no insulating undercoat, a Great Dane may need protection in cold, windy or wet weather. Judge this by the individual dog, its activity and the conditions rather than by a fixed temperature.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Great Dane should be friendly, affectionate, self-assured and willing to be guided. It may be reserved with strangers but should not be aggressive. Many people are drawn to the breed's close bond with its family, but the label “gentle giant” cannot guarantee how an individual dog will behave.

Size magnifies both good and bad habits. A dog that pulls on the lead, jumps up or charges towards a visitor is difficult to manage even when its intentions are friendly. Early work on calm greetings, loose-lead walking, recall, waiting and cooperative handling is therefore basic safety, not simply polished manners. Consistent, reward-based training suits the breed's intended willingness to cooperate. Harsh methods can create insecurity and do not make up for missing training.

Temperament varies between individuals and family lines. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other close relatives, ask how they respond to strangers and unfamiliar settings, and request results from official behaviour assessments where available. Previous experience with dogs is useful, especially for anyone who has not trained a dog of this size before.

## Training & Exercise

A Great Dane needs daily physical activity and mental enrichment, but the amount should reflect age, health, fitness and recovery. There is no well-supported minute-by-minute formula that suits every adult or puppy. Regular walks, time to sniff and move over varied ground, and short training sessions provide a better foundation than occasional strenuous outings.

Puppies grow for a long time and should neither be overloaded nor kept inactive. Let them develop coordination and strength through free but supervised movement and gradually longer walks. While the body is developing, limit repeated jumping, sharp turns, long runs beside a bicycle or runner, and boisterous play on slippery floors. The appropriate rate of progression varies; consult a vet or canine physiotherapist if a puppy is lame, stiff or recovering poorly.

A giant-breed puppy needs a complete food formulated for the growth of large or giant breeds. The aim is steady growth and a lean, healthy body condition, not the fastest possible growth. Do not add calcium or other minerals to a complete diet unless advised by a vet. In giant breeds the skeleton may still be maturing at around 15–16 months, although the timing differs between individuals.

Prioritise skills that make the adult dog safe and manageable: standing still, stepping onto scales, accepting nail care and examination, giving up objects, and passing people and dogs without lunging. Scent work, practical obedience and problem-solving provide mental stimulation without placing the body under heavy strain.

## Health

Prospective owners should discuss several important health risks openly with the breeder, particularly gastric dilatation-volvulus, dilated cardiomyopathy and hip dysplasia. Great Danes also have a shorter average lifespan than many smaller breeds. Longevity figures, however, describe a particular study population and cannot predict how long an individual dog will live.

**Gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV, is an acute, life-threatening emergency.** Seek veterinary care immediately if the dog repeatedly tries to vomit without bringing anything up, becomes restless, drools, develops a swollen abdomen, grows weak or collapses. Do not wait to see whether the signs pass. GDV is multifactorial and not fully understood, so no feeding routine can promise to prevent it. Ask whether close relatives have been affected and decide in advance which emergency hospital can receive the dog. A prophylactic gastropexy can be discussed with a vet. It reduces the risk of the stomach twisting but does not stop the stomach from dilating.

**Dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, may be present before the dog shows obvious signs.** An echocardiogram, ECG or ambulatory ECG, and sometimes blood biomarkers, may form part of a veterinary cardiac investigation. A normal result describes the dog at the time of examination; it is not a lifetime guarantee. Ask which heart examinations the parents and older relatives have had, how old they were when examined, and whether the family has a history of DCM or sudden death.

**Swedish hip dysplasia requirements are not the same as the breed club's recommendation.** For puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; Great Danes can be officially radiographed from 18 months of age. The Swedish Kennel Club's general rules prohibit breeding from grade E dogs and allow a grade D dog only when paired with an A or B dog. Dogs with clinical signs of hip dysplasia must not be bred from. The Swedish Great Dane Club goes further and recommends that breeding dogs are hip dysplasia-free. Ask to see the actual results rather than accepting the description “health tested”.

The Swedish Kennel Club also notes tonsillitis in the breed. Assessments pay particular attention to loose eyelids, weak feet, the construction of the forequarters and hindquarters, exaggerated breed features and temperament. A responsible breeder should be able to explain both the strengths and the problems in the line, including how older relatives have fared.

## History & Origins

The Great Dane is a German breed, despite the English name and the French-derived name Grand danois used in Sweden and several other countries. In its country of origin it is called the Deutsche Dogge.

The official breed history describes predecessors including the Bullenbeisser and boar-hunting dogs of a type between the heavy mastiff and the faster sighthound. In Berlin in 1878, judges and breeders agreed to unite the different names under Deutsche Dogge. The first breed standard was established in 1880, and the German breed club was founded in 1888.

Organised breeding began in Sweden in 1908. Older accounts take the story much further back, but claims about Celtic war dogs or an unbroken line from antiquity are considerably harder to substantiate. The documented German milestones give a more reliable account of how the modern breed developed.

## Living with the Breed

A Great Dane can live in a flat if its needs for exercise, rest and training are met, but the home and daily routine must work for a giant dog. A house with a large garden does not replace walks or company, and a small home is not automatically unsuitable. The practical questions are more useful than a simple house-or-flat rule.

Is there room for a large, supportive bed where the dog can rest undisturbed? Are the floors non-slip? Will the dog fit safely in the car, and could it use a ramp when old or injured? If the lift breaks down, can daily life still work with the stairs? How would two adults take an ill dog to the vet if it could not walk? The answers reveal more than the address alone.

The breed can live in a family with children, but friendly intentions do not remove the physical risk created by its size. A young or excited Great Dane can knock over a small child accidentally. An adult should always supervise dogs with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where children leave it alone. An adult must take responsibility for walks and handling.

The same caution applies to other animals. No one can promise that a particular Great Dane will live safely with a cat or another dog. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing and overly rough play, and give the cat dog-free spaces and high escape routes. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are reliably calm and safe.

An adult dog that has been trained to be alone can often manage a few hours, but individuals differ greatly and a young puppy cannot be left alone. Begin once the puppy feels secure in its new home, increase the time gradually, and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is longer than the dog can manage. Distress in a giant dog can quickly affect the whole home, so time alone must be taught and monitored rather than assumed to come naturally to the breed.

Great Dane (Grand danois)

The Great Dane Club of Germany (Deutscher Doggen-Club 1888 e.V.)

The Great Dane Club of UK

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Great Dane (Grand danois) is a giant, elegant dog, among the tallest breeds. Once a boar‑hunting and estate guard dog, it is now a loyal, people‑oriented companion. Calm indoors with moderate exercise needs, it requires space, careful training, health care and close daily companionship.

Vi är stolta över att få presentera Doris, vår älskade Grand Danois-tik. Doris är en sann "gentle giant" ' en stor, majestätisk hund med ett hjärta av guld. Hennes lugna och kärleksfulla temperament gör henne till den perfekta mamman för vår valpkull.

Vi är noga med att förbereda valparna för livet som familjemedlemmar, och varje valp får en individuell start på livet genom att bli socialiserad redan från tidig ålder. Vi genomför även noggranna hälsokontroller.

The Great Doris Danes

## Quick Facts

The Spanish Water Dog (Perro de Agua Espanol) is a medium-sized Spanish working dog with a strong capacity for learning, a watchful nature and a need for both physical and mental activity. It is best suited to an engaged owner who wants to train regularly, can devote time to careful early socialisation and is prepared to learn the breed’s unusual coat care.

- **Origin:** Spain, with the largest historic population in Andalusia.
- **Purpose:** Water dog, hunting dog and herding dog; in Sweden, it is primarily an active companion and dog-sport partner.
- **Size:** Males 44–50 cm and 18–22 kg; females 40–46 cm and 14–18 kg.
- **Character:** Faithful, hard-working, watchful, quick to learn and adaptable according to the breed standard, although sociability and fearfulness vary considerably between individuals.
- **Coat:** Always curly and woolly; it is not brushed, but managed through an even clip and careful separation of curls or cords.
- **Everyday demands:** Expect a loud, sharp bark, a strong need for tasks and a dog that must learn how to be active and how to settle.

The curly appearance can suggest an easy family companion, but the working background matters more than the hairstyle. A Spanish Water Dog given only routine walks may start inventing jobs, such as watching the window or reacting to sounds.

## Appearance & Coat

The Spanish Water Dog is rustic, athletic and slightly longer than it is tall. Males and females have different standard measurements: males should stand 44–50 cm and weigh 18–22 kg, while females should stand 40–46 cm and weigh 14–18 kg. A deviation of up to two centimetres either way may be tolerated if the dog remains well proportioned.

The coat must always be curly and woolly in texture. A short coat forms curls, while a long coat may form cords. The coat may be clipped, but the whole body should then be clipped evenly rather than styled into a decorative trim. Coat quality and the amount of undercoat vary between dogs, so two Spanish Water Dogs may need quite different care.

This coat should not be brushed or combed like a conventional long coat. Curls and cords are gently separated with the fingers. If solid matting has formed close to the skin, the coat should be clipped because it pulls and can be painful. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, paws, the area beneath a collar or harness, and the hanging ears. Bathe the dog when it is dirty and clip when length or matting makes it necessary. One fixed timetable will not suit every coat.

Accepted colours are solid white, black or chestnut, and bicolour white and black or white and chestnut. Tricolour, black and tan, and brown and tan are not accepted under the standard.

The tail may be full length or naturally short in several different lengths. In Sweden, the breed’s tail is registered as absent, bobtail, short, full length or docked. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden, even though the international standard still describes it. A short tail on a Swedish-born puppy should therefore be natural, not altered for appearance.

The breed normally releases very little loose hair, but that does not make it allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin particles and saliva as well as elsewhere, and people react differently. Anyone with an allergy should therefore meet the individual dog several times rather than choose the breed solely because of its coat.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Spanish Water Dog as faithful, obedient, cheerful, hard-working, watchful, well balanced and exceptionally quick to learn. This is a useful picture of the breeding ideal, but not a promise that every dog will be easy, fearless or sociable with everyone.

The breed is often reserved or only moderately interested in unfamiliar people. Reserve is not the same as fear: a confident dog can choose not to greet and still accept handling when necessary. Persistent flight, intense distress, slow recovery or threatening responses should not be dismissed as typical breed behaviour.

The Swedish breeding strategy describes wide variation in temperament and has an explicit aim of reducing fearfulness. Swedish BPH data also show variation in greeting, play, curiosity and responses to surprises. In a Finnish study of 5,932 dogs, the Spanish Water Dog was among the breeds showing the most fear of strangers, while less socialisation between seven and sixteen weeks was associated with greater risk. This is a group result, not a verdict on every dog, but it underlines the value of calm, early exposure to the world.

Since 2024, Sweden has had a mental index for the breed covering sociability, playfulness, environmental confidence and threat-related behaviour. It is a breeding tool and does not certify an individual dog. Consider the parents’ BPH results and index alongside meeting the dogs yourself: how do they recover after a surprise, accept handling and behave in everyday settings?

Watchfulness is often expressed through a high, fairly sharp bark. Train from an early age so that the dog can notice a sound and then let it go. Trying to remove all watchfulness is unrealistic, but the dog should be able to settle and respond to its handler.

## Training & Exercise

The Spanish Water Dog needs to use both body and brain every day, but a fixed number of hours says less than the content and the dog’s recovery. A workable week includes varied movement, scent work, problem-solving, cooperation and deliberate practice at resting.

The breed learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training in small steps suits its learning ability and reduces conflict with a sensitive or watchful dog. Prioritise loose-lead skills, recall, releasing objects, calm behaviour at doors and windows, handling of paws and ears, and a clear cue to settle in its own place.

Socialisation does not mean exposing a puppy to as much as possible in a short time. Instead, let it encounter people, sounds, surfaces, traffic, water and other dogs at a distance where it can still think, take a reward and recover. Do not force greetings. One good experience is more valuable than many overwhelming encounters.

Scent work, tracking people or game, specialist search, nose work, obedience, rally and agility are examples of activities that can suit the breed. Water work may be an excellent fit, but the breed’s name does not guarantee that every dog wants to swim. Introduce water gradually and let the dog’s confidence set the pace.

An adult needs substantial walks and tasks that demand concentration. Judge the level by body condition, fitness, sleep, ability to settle and how the dog feels the next day. A highly aroused dog does not always need more speed; it may need scent work or trained calmness. A puppy should have short explorations, free play, simple exercises and plenty of rest. Increase longer distances, jumping and heavier work gradually.

## Health

The clearest binding Swedish breed rule concerns the hips: both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. The breed club goes further and recommends that the average hip index of Swedish-born parents should exceed 100 at the time of mating.

The club also recommends BPH, a current eye examination, and DNA information for prcd-PRA and neuroaxonal dystrophy, or NAD. These recommendations should not be confused with the formal hip requirement. Ask the breeder to show the results, dates and parental combination rather than merely saying that the dogs are “health tested”.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited retinal disease that can cause blindness. The DNA test identifies the prcd variant only; it does not exclude other eye diseases and therefore does not replace a clinical eye examination. The Swedish Kennel Club can centrally record prcd-PRA results for the breed, but that recording is not in itself a separate breed-specific requirement for litter registration. A carrier can be mated to a clear dog without affected puppies being expected, whereas two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be bred from.

NAD is a serious neurological disease that, in documented cases, began during the dog’s first year and affected gait, coordination and behaviour. Research in the breed has identified a TECPR2 variant and evidence of recessive inheritance. The breed club recommends clear dogs, or carriers only when paired with a clear dog. NAD results are not recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club, so ask to see the laboratory certificate and check both parents.

The Swedish breeding strategy draws in part on a health survey with 871 complete owner responses. Such a survey provides an overview but is not the same as veterinary-diagnosed prevalence. Ask instead about documented results and illness in parents, siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a long generic list of diagnoses.

A stated lifespan range cannot predict the life of an individual dog. Sound breeding, suitable body condition, free movement, pain-free skin and prompt veterinary attention when signs appear are more useful when choosing and caring for a Spanish Water Dog.

## History & Origins

The Spanish Water Dog has been present on the Iberian Peninsula for a long time. The FCI standard describes a shared origin with the older French water-dog type, the Barbet, and the large Andalusian population whose dogs were known as “Turkish dogs”. The exact early history remains disputed, however, and the Swedish breeding strategy also records several theories.

Work differed between regions. The standard describes herding, hunting and helping fishermen, particularly in areas where the woolly coat offered protection in both wet and dry conditions. There is not enough support, however, for every detailed story about retrieving nets, carrying messages between boats or one specific route by which the dogs reached Spain.

The modern breed took shape when enthusiasts began selecting dogs and drawing up a standard from 1975. The three traditional types are known as North, Sierra and Marismeño, but today’s population is mixed and forms one breed. The FCI granted provisional recognition in 1989 and definitive recognition in 1999. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1997; accounts differ on exactly how many there were.

## Living with the Breed

The Spanish Water Dog can become a close and entertaining family companion, but it needs more than an opportunity to run off energy. Daily life must include training, recovery, coat and ear checks, and thoughtful management of watchfulness and new environments.

With children, adult supervision and an undisturbed resting place are basic rules. A lively dog can knock over or attempt to control a running child without aggressive intent, and children should not pull the curls or disturb the dog while it eats or rests. Assess the confidence and recovery of the parents rather than assuming the breed name guarantees family suitability.

The breed can live with other dogs and cats, but the relationship depends on the individual, experience and introduction. Keep meetings calm, prevent chasing and give a cat safe escape routes. Small animals need separate, secure spaces; the breed’s herding, hunting and guarding background makes it unwise to promise that every Spanish Water Dog will be reliable with every animal.

Flat living can work if the dog receives suitable activity and can settle, but its loud bark and possible sensitivity to people, sounds and movement make a poorly soundproofed or very busy home more demanding. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, tasks or socialisation.

Being left alone should be introduced in very small steps after the puppy feels secure at home. If the dog follows its owner everywhere and never practises resting behind a gate or in another room, longer absences can become unnecessarily difficult. Arrange other care if the working day regularly means many hours away.

The breed suits someone who wants an active life with a clever, quick and watchful training partner and is prepared to monitor coat and health carefully. It is less suitable if you want an automatically sociable dog, a very quiet home, minimal training or a curly coat that can be brushed in the usual way.

Spanish Water Dog (Perro de Agua Espanol)

Verein für Deutsche Wachtelhunde e.V. (Germany)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The Spanish Water Dog is a medium, curly‑coated working breed from Spain, used for herding and water tasks. Loyal and often bonded to one person, it is energetic, intelligent, reserved with strangers, and a natural watchdog, needing substantial exercise, training, and specific coat care.

Coral del mar

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Calm White

## Quick Facts

The Italian Greyhound is the smallest breed in the sighthound group, but it is built like a sighthound in miniature. The breed standard sets a height of 32–38 centimetres for both sexes and says that the dog may weigh no more than 5 kilograms. There is no official minimum or narrow “ideal weight”; assess body condition, muscle and overall balance instead.

- Italy is the country of origin. The breed is FCI number 200 and belongs to group 10, section 3.
- The breed standard describes the temperament as lively, affectionate and docile. This is the ideal set by the standard, not a guarantee of how every dog will respond to strangers, being left alone or new surroundings.
- The short, fine coat offers limited protection from the weather. Clothing may be needed when it is cold, wet or windy, but this depends on the dog, the conditions and its activity level.
- Seeing something move can quickly trigger a chase response. Recall is important training, but a lead or securely enclosed area remains the safe choice near traffic, wildlife and small animals.
- A young dog needs protection from bad landings as well as free, varied movement that develops muscle, balance and bone.

The breed suits someone who wants to share life with a small, fast and alert dog and can combine everyday exercise with sensible safety measures. Small size does not mean that the dog has no need for exercise.

## Appearance & Coat

The Italian Greyhound should be square or nearly square: the body is the same length as, or slightly shorter than, the height at the withers. Fine bone, a deep chest, a tucked-up underline and long legs create the sighthound outline. “Fine-boned” does not mean weak, poorly muscled or underweight.

The standard calls for a springy, harmonious trot that covers ground. An exaggerated high, short step resembling hackney action is a fault, even if it may look elegant. At the gallop, the breed should show the speed and spring of a sighthound.

The coat should be short, silky and fine all over, without feathering. Under the FCI standard, only solid black, grey or isabella in different shades is accepted. White is tolerated only on the chest and feet. Red, brindle and other markings are therefore not standard colours in Sweden, although other registries or everyday colour names can cause confusion.

Coat care is simple and done as needed. Wipe away dirt, remove loose hair with a soft brush or grooming mitt, and bathe the dog when it is dirty. Check the skin, nails, pads, ears and mouth at the same time.

The fine coat provides little insulation against wind and rain. A well-fitting coat can make a walk more comfortable in poor weather, but no single temperature threshold is useful for every dog. Watch for shivering, a tense posture, reluctance to move or attempts to seek shelter. Remove or adjust clothing if the dog becomes warm as the pace increases.

## Temperament & Personality

The Italian Greyhound should be lively, affectionate and docile, and many seek close contact. This does not mean that every dog is quiet, wants to sit on a lap or can be left alone without training. Inheritance, experience and daily surroundings shape the individual.

The breed can switch quickly between rest and intense play. A dog that can move, sniff, learn and rest without disturbance is more likely to settle indoors.

The Swedish BPH and MH behaviour-assessment sample is too small to support firm conclusions about the entire breed. Meet the parents and adult relatives instead. Observe how they recover after surprises, greet unfamiliar people and relax when nothing is happening.

With children, the way they interact matters more than age alone. An adult should supervise play, the dog must be able to move away, and children should not carry it or disturb it while it sleeps or eats. The dog can be injured if dropped, run into or involved in rough play with a much larger dog. Match play styles and stop before the pace becomes uncontrolled.

Living with cats can work after a calm, controlled introduction, but previous experience is no guarantee outdoors. Movement may arouse the urge to chase. Birds, rabbits and small rodents should be kept physically separate. Adapt gates, leads and separate rooms to the dog's actual behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

The Italian Greyhound needs to move every day, have opportunities to run safely and train in short, enjoyable sessions. No reliable rule in minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery determine the balance between walks, play and free movement.

The breed club's breeding strategy highlights long walks, varied training and safe free running. In an enclosed area, the dog can change pace without the risks from traffic and wildlife found in open spaces. Check fencing, gates and the ground. Train recall and the habit of checking in voluntarily, but do not expect them to remove the chase response.

A puppy needs a balance between physical challenge and protection. The breed club's strategy recommends early movement over varied surfaces and safe free activity to build muscle and bone. Let the puppy move at its own pace on surfaces with good grip. Prevent falls from high furniture, poor landings on slippery floors and collisions with larger dogs. Introduce stairs, jumping and dog sports gradually as body control develops.

Use reward-based training in short sessions. Walking well on the lead, calm handling of feet and mouth, waiting at doors and having a safe resting place are particularly valuable everyday skills.

In cold or wet weather, clothing and several shorter outings may work better than a walk during which the dog becomes stiff with cold. Choose sheltered routes and add indoor scent work. If the dog limps, avoids putting weight on a leg or suddenly refuses to move, stop the activity and have it assessed by a vet.

## Health

The Italian Greyhound is not covered by a breed-specific health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026. This does not make health examinations unimportant. The current Swedish breeding strategy recommends an eye examination for prospective parents before mating. It also encourages an official patella examination and having a vet listen to the heart before breeding. Regular dental care is another priority.

Owner surveys, insurance statistics and veterinary records collect information in different ways, and several Swedish datasets are small. They cannot provide a certain risk for an individual dog. Eyes, teeth, kneecaps and fractures of the radius and ulna are still relevant questions because they recur in the available material.

It is important to distinguish between two kinds of dental problem. Regular oral care and veterinary checks help prevent ordinary periodontal disease. Familial enamel hypoplasia, FEH, is instead a recessively inherited enamel defect linked to the ENAM gene. It can cause pitting, discolouration and abnormal tooth shape. UC Davis stresses that the FEH variant is not associated with periodontal disease; a DNA result therefore does not replace dental care.

Genetic risk assessments are available internationally for primary closed-angle glaucoma, PCAG, and progressive retinal atrophy, PRA. They do not give a simple answer that a dog is clear or will become affected. The PCAG test concerns two linked risk variants found in many, but not all, affected dogs in the study. The PRA result combines five risk regions, and other genetic forms may exist. These tests are not Swedish registration requirements and do not replace an eye examination.

Small puppies may jump from a height before they can control the landing, and the Swedish material mentions forearm fractures. Use non-slip flooring, controlled play and protection from high falls. Do not keep a healthy puppy still; varied, safe movement helps build the body.

Ask the breeder to show the examination and test results and explain how they were considered when the mating was planned. Also ask about dental, eye, knee and heart health, and fractures among close relatives. “Health tested” is not enough; ask for the test name, date, result and limitations.

## History & Origins

The breed standard describes a route from small sighthounds at the pharaohs' courts, through Greece, to Italy at the beginning of the fifth century BC. It also says that the breed's most important development took place at Renaissance courts. This is the official account, not evidence of an unbroken modern pedigree or every later royal anecdote.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes hunting small game as a historical role and further development in Italy, Germany and Austria. The companion role and sighthound qualities belong together: quick reactions, visually triggered pursuit and the ability to gallop remain.

In the FCI standard, Italy is the country of origin and the breed belongs to the sighthounds, not the toy and companion group. Its needs should therefore be considered those of a small sighthound, even if it enjoys resting close to the family.

## Living with the Breed

An Italian Greyhound can live well in a flat if it can be taken out easily, exercises every day, can run safely and has somewhere undisturbed to rest. Routines matter more than the size of the home. Slippery floors, uncontrolled jumps and long days alone do not become suitable simply because the dog is small.

Time alone should be taught gradually. Start when the dog has been out and is calm, leave for a short time and increase only when it can rest. A camera can show what happens, but a second dog is not a reliable solution. If the dog barks, howls, destroys things or cannot take food, take a step back in training; seek professional help if the problem is pronounced.

House training is a training issue, not a proven breed defect. Give frequent opportunities after sleep, meals and play, go outside with the dog and reward success. Protection from the weather may help, but consistent opportunities and supervision matter more than a special indoor toilet.

Put rugs where the dog slips, provide an undisturbed resting place and prevent unsafe high jumps. At the same time, let the dog explore different surfaces and use its body. Children and larger dogs require supervision; cats require a slow introduction and the option of separation.

Before buying a puppy, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- When were the parents' eyes examined, and what were the results?
- Are official patella results available, and did a vet listen to each parent's heart before breeding?
- Were FEH, PCAG or PRA risk panels used, and how should these particular results be interpreted?
- What is known about dental health, fractures, eye problems and knee problems in close and older relatives?
- How do the parents behave around new people, surfaces, handling, rest and short periods alone?
- How have the puppies been helped to develop balance, muscle, confidence in different environments and everyday routines?

A good match requires appreciation of the sighthound's speed and sensitivity, the ability to support safe physical development and a willingness to teach everyday life step by step. The Italian Greyhound can then be both a close companion and an active, capable little dog.

Italian Greyhound

The Italian Greyhound Club (UK)

The Italian Greyhound is a tiny, fine‑boned sighthound with a short, low‑shedding coat and elegant movement. Affectionate, sensitive and people‑oriented, it bonds closely, needs warmth, gentle training, moderate exercise with safe sprints, and careful handling to protect its delicate limbs.

Pekkulika’s

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Cewells

Pipino`s kennel

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

Silkmann's castle

## Quick Facts

The Xoloitzcuintle is a Mexican primitive-type dog that comes in three sizes and in both hairless and coated varieties. The two coat types belong to the same breed and should share the same basic build and temperament. Their main differences are the coat and dentition.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Miniature:** 25–35 cm at the withers
- **Intermediate:** 36–45 cm at the withers
- **Standard:** 46–60 cm at the withers; for show judging, the breed standard allows up to 62 cm for particularly fine specimens
- **Coat types:** hairless or fully covered in a short coat
- **Use:** chiefly a companion dog; the intermediate and standard sizes also have a background as watchdogs
- **Typical traits:** calm, alert, intelligent and sometimes reserved with strangers

In Sweden, a puppy is initially registered as the size variety that corresponds to its larger parent. Its definitive size is established by measurement at a show after 15 months of age. It is therefore worth asking the breeder how large close relatives have become, rather than looking only at the size shown on the puppy’s first registration.

## Appearance & Coat

The Xoloitzcuintle should be lean, strong and harmonious without appearing either slight or heavy. The body is a little longer than the height at the withers, in an approximate ratio of 10:9. Long legs, a roomy ribcage and a slender tail give the breed a clean, athletic outline. The ears are large and held erect when the dog is attentive. At rest, the tail hangs with a slight curve; in motion it may be carried in a curve, but should not be tightly curled over the back.

The hairless variety has no, or almost no, hair on the body. A small amount of short, coarse hair may be present on the head and back of the neck, as well as on the feet and tip of the tail. The skin should be smooth and soft. It often feels warmer than a coated dog’s skin because heat is released directly, but its body temperature is the same as that of other dogs.

The coated variety has a short, close and smooth coat over the whole body, normally without an undercoat. The hair may be sparser on the belly and the inside of the hind legs. Its coat is generally easy to care for, although the skin, ears, nails and teeth still need checking in a coated dog.

Dark, uniform colours are preferred in the breed standard, but the range includes black, various shades of grey, reddish, liver, bronze and blond. Spotted dogs also occur. Appearance can therefore vary considerably between individuals and between the hairless and coated varieties.

Dentition is an important difference between the coat types. Many hairless dogs lack some teeth or have rotated teeth because the hairless trait is closely linked to dental development. This is a recognised feature of the variety and need not be a sign of poor care. The coated variety, by contrast, should have complete, normally developed dentition. Both need regular checks of the mouth and teeth based on their individual dental status.

## Temperament & Personality

The Xoloitzcuintle is described as calm, cheerful, attentive and intelligent, but often has a distinct sense of independence. It can be deeply attached to its family without automatically seeking contact with everyone it meets. Reserve with strangers is consistent with the breed ideal; extreme fear or aggression is not.

That distinction matters in everyday life. A confident but reserved dog may wait and then accept a visitor without wanting to greet them. A dog that freezes, panics or threatens needs more distance and a carefully planned training approach. Do not force contact in an attempt to make the dog ‘sociable’. Allow it to observe from a comfortable distance and reward calm choices instead.

The intermediate and standard varieties have traditionally been used as watchdogs. This may show as attentiveness to sounds, movement and visitors. The breed should not, however, bark without good reason or seek confrontation. How much an individual dog alerts is influenced by inheritance, its environment and the consequences the behaviour has at home.

There is considerable variation within the breed in sociability, activity and independence. If possible, meet the puppy’s parents or other adult relatives. Notice how they recover after a surprise, accept handling and behave when an unfamiliar person enters. This is more informative than a broad label such as ‘calm family dog’.

## Training & Exercise

The Xoloitzcuintle needs physical activity every day as well as tasks that engage its nose and mind, but there is no credible number of minutes that suits all three sizes and every individual. A good routine combines walks, free movement in safe places, scent work, short training sessions and rest. Adjust the workload to the dog’s age, size, health, the weather and its ability to settle.

The breed may enjoy activities such as obedience, agility, balance exercises, tracking and search games. The aim is not to fill every day with high-intensity activity, but to let the dog use its body and make decisions at an appropriate level of difficulty. A dog that gets a great deal of exercise but never practises calm behaviour may still struggle to switch off.

Training is most effective when it is reward-based, clear and broken into manageable steps. Independence and reserve can make harsh corrections particularly damaging to trust. Reward the behaviour you want and increase the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable. Start early with recall, loose-lead walking and attention, releasing objects and settling in a designated place.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The goal is for it to remain comfortable among different people, dogs, sounds and surfaces. Give it a chance to watch, choose its distance and recover. Gradually accustom it to having its skin, feet, ears and mouth handled as well. This makes routine care and veterinary visits less stressful later in life.

## Health

Skin and dental care are the most distinctive health considerations in a Xoloitzcuintle, but they differ between the hairless and coated varieties. A hairless dog’s dentition may be incomplete as a result of the hairless trait. Ask the breeder to show you the puppy’s teeth and those of its parents, and ask your vet to monitor the individual dog’s oral health. The fact that missing teeth are permitted by the breed standard does not mean the teeth that are present can be left without care.

Bare skin lacks the natural protection of a coat. Young dogs may develop pimples or blackheads for a time, and skin quality varies between individuals. Persistent itching, pain, sores, discharge, an unpleasant smell or recurring inflammation should not, however, be dismissed as ‘normal for the breed’. In those circumstances, the dog needs a veterinary examination. Avoid harsh cleansers and fixed bathing or moisturising routines that are not suited to the individual dog’s skin.

Older Swedish breed documents describe skin problems of varying severity and isolated findings of hip, elbow and kneecap disorders. Much of the evidence comes from dogs and examinations during the first decade of the 2000s, so it does not show how common any condition is today. Reviewing current information about the parents and close relatives is therefore more useful than relying on a general list of diseases.

Ask the breeder:

- which skin, dental and other health problems have occurred in the line
- which veterinary examinations the parents have had and why those particular checks were chosen
- whether close relatives have had musculoskeletal problems, allergy-like signs, hearing problems or recurring skin inflammation
- how the breeder follows the puppies’ health as they mature

A responsible breeder can discuss both the strengths and the uncertainties in their breeding programme, rather than simply describing the breed as healthy.

## History & Origins

The Xoloitzcuintle has very old roots in Mexico and a distinct place in the country’s pre-Hispanic cultural history. The breed’s name is associated with Xolotl and the Nahuatl word for dog. Historical and archaeological sources connect the dog with religious ceremonies and the belief that it could guide the souls of the dead to their final resting place.

Not every old depiction of a hairless dog or written reference is secure evidence of the modern breed, however. It is therefore more accurate to speak of an ancient Mexican canine heritage than to assign the breed a precise age of several thousand years. Claims of healing powers belong to historical belief, not veterinary fact.

Modern organised breeding was developed by the Mexican kennel organisation, which has used the Xoloitzcuintle in its logo since 1940. The breed arrived in Sweden in 1983 and was then registered under the name Mexican Hairless Dog. Sweden has used the original name, Xoloitzcuintle, since 2016.

The coated variety has sometimes been overshadowed by the hairless one, but it is an official part of the breed. Current Swedish judging guidance states that coated and hairless dogs should be valued equally according to the requirements for their respective coat types.

## Living with the Breed

A Xoloitzcuintle can thrive in many types of home if daily life meets the individual dog’s need for companionship, activity, careful introductions and protection from the weather. Living in a flat is not an obstacle in itself. What matters more is that the dog gets outside regularly, can settle indoors and is trained so that vigilance does not turn into disruptive barking where sound carries easily between homes.

The hairless variety needs more help in strong sun, cold, rain and wind than a dog with a protective coat. Adjust time outdoors to the temperature, sunlight, wind, skin colour and individual dog. Shade and clothing can provide a physical barrier, while skin products should be chosen for the individual, preferably with veterinary advice. Clothing should fit comfortably and not cause rubbing or new skin problems. The coated variety has better natural protection but normally lacks an undercoat, so its needs should also be judged according to the weather and activity.

The same basic rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult should be present and the dog should have a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The miniature variety needs protection from being dropped, carried incorrectly or involved in rough play. A larger dog may instead knock over a small child by accident. Breed alone cannot replace calm introductions and adult supervision.

Living with dogs, cats and small animals depends on the individual dog’s experience and behaviour. A Xoloitzcuintle raised with a cat may live very well with it, but that does not guarantee the same dog’s response to a running cat outdoors. Keep early meetings controlled, give the animals separate resources and stop before tension builds. Ask the breeder how dogs in the particular line tend to behave with other animals.

Time alone needs to be trained gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and is settled, and extend them only when it can remain relaxed. Some individuals learn quickly, while others need much more time and support. Plan daily life so the dog is not routinely left for longer than it can cope with without stress.

Hairlessness does not make the breed allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in the skin and saliva, among other sources, and people may react differently even to dogs from the same litter. Anyone with an allergy should therefore investigate their own situation and spend time with the individual dog indoors on several occasions before making a decision.

The breed is best suited to someone who appreciates an intelligent dog with integrity and is prepared to invest time in confident socialisation, varied activity and individual care. Someone mainly looking for a ‘low-maintenance’ dog because of the bare skin risks underestimating both skin care and training needs.

Xoloitzcuintle

Ancient Mexican breed linked to Aztec culture, the Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless or short‑coated dog in three sizes. Calm, loyal, and watchful, it bonds closely with family and excels as a gentle companion and alert watchdog, needing skin care, socialization, and moderate exercise.

Pohlhöjden

German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh)

German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Germany (Deutsch-Kurzhaar-Verband)

Norwegian German Shorthaired Pointer Club (Norsk Vorstehhundklubb)

Svenska Vorstehklubben (Swedish Pointing Dog Club)

The German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh) is a medium‑large, athletic gundog with a short, shedding coat and striking liver-and-white patterns. Energetic, people-focused and intelligent, it needs extensive daily exercise, positive training, and close family contact to stay calm and content.

Towas

German Pinscher

Deutscher Pinscher-Schnauzer-Klub 1895 e.V. (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

Royal Canin (UK)

Medium, athletic German farm dog with sleek low‑maintenance coat in black‑and‑tan or red. Intelligent, alert, loyal and protective yet reserved with strangers. Needs plenty of exercise, mental work, firm positive training and close family involvement; generally robust and long‑lived.

Vi föder upp rastypiska Pinschrar med god mentalitet, sundhet och skönhet. Vår vision är att bevara denna eleganta gårdshund - en av Europas äldsta hundraser - och lyfta fram dess unika egenskaper som gör den till en trofast och mångsidig familjemedlem.

Genom ett noggrant urval av avelsdjur strävar vi efter att kombinera god hälsa, stabilt temperament och funktionalitet.
Våra Pinschrar ska vara trygga, energiska och samarbetsvilliga hundar som fungerar lika bra som aktiva familjemedlemmar som i olika hundsporter.

Vår passion är att värna om Pinscherns arv och samtidigt skapa förutsättningar för framtidens hundar.

Leaves of Myrkwoods

## Quick Facts

The Standard Schnauzer is a medium-sized, active and watchful dog from Germany. This page concerns the medium-sized breed known in Swedish simply as Schnauzer. The name is not an umbrella term for the Miniature Schnauzer, Standard Schnauzer and Giant Schnauzer; these are three separate breeds with their own standards and partly different health concerns.

- The FCI places the Standard Schnauzer in Group 2 and lists Germany as its country of origin.
- The standard gives a height of 45–50 cm and a weight of 14–20 kg for both dogs and bitches.
- The body is strong, compact and approximately square.
- The recognised colours are pure black with black undercoat and pepper and salt.
- The coat is double, dense and wiry and needs regular combing and trimming.
- The breed ideal combines a lively temperament with thoughtful calm, playfulness, loyalty and vigilance.

The Standard Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and do things with their dog, while also teaching it to settle. A first-time owner can do well if daily life includes reward-based training, coat care and clear routines. The breed name cannot, however, guarantee how easy an individual dog will be. The behaviour of the parents and adult relatives is more informative.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Schnauzer is unmistakably medium-sized: 45–50 cm and 14–20 kg apply to both sexes. It should be more compact than slender, with height at the withers roughly equal to body length. The long head, beard and bushy eyebrows create the characteristic expression.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The topcoat should be wiry rather than soft, wavy or silky. A black Standard Schnauzer should be pure black, including the undercoat. Pepper and salt can range from dark iron grey to silver grey, but should have a harmonious dark mask. Clearly light markings on the head, chest or legs are undesirable under the standard.

Coat care is a regular part of life with the breed. As a practical guide, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests trimming about four times a year and combing at least weekly. Trimming removes old topcoat so that the wiry texture can be maintained. Owners who clip the coat still need to comb through the beard, eyebrows, belly and leg furnishings and prevent mats next to the skin. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how dogs from that particular line are groomed; a practical lesson is more useful than a generic timetable.

A well-kept, trimmed Standard Schnauzer often sheds little loose hair, but the breed is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin cells, saliva, urine and substances from the sebaceous glands, among other sources. Low shedding therefore cannot predict how an allergic person will react. Seek medical advice before buying a dog instead of relying on claims based on breed alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Standard Schnauzer should be lively, good-natured, playful and watchful while also capable of calm. It is often attentive to people, sounds and movement around the home. The breed's earlier work as a farm and guard dog is consequently more apparent in some individuals than in others.

The Swedish Kennel Club's current BPH analysis, produced after the breed passed 200 assessments, is particularly useful because it shows the variation behind the breed description. The dataset includes 284 Standard Schnauzers assessed through BPH, but only about 12 per cent of Swedish-born dogs born from 2010 to 2023 took part. The results therefore describe the participating dogs, not every member of the breed. The group includes dogs that do not greet a stranger and dogs that greet intensely. Interest in play also varies considerably. Few showed threatening behaviour towards a stranger, while responses varied more when a disguised person approached in an unusual way.

For a prospective puppy owner, the conclusion is practical: do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to see how they receive visitors, accept handling, recover after a surprise and move from activity to rest. Their BPH or MH records can also be useful, but BPH is a description, not a test with a pass or fail result.

The breed standard says that the Standard Schnauzer should be vigilant without being noisy. That is a breeding ideal, not a promise of silence. In a home where sound travels easily, reward calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows from the start, and teach the dog what to do after it has noticed a sound.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Schnauzer needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but its needs cannot be calculated with a fixed number of minutes. A good routine alternates walks, free movement in a secure place, scent work, everyday training, play and recovery. Judge the outcome: the dog should be able to work willingly, remain responsive to its handler and then settle, rather than becoming increasingly overstimulated.

Training should be positive, reward-based and progressive. Make the desired behaviour clear and adapt the reward to the individual; food, play and the opportunity to sniff vary in value from one dog to another. Short sessions can be useful when a young dog loses focus, but there is no universal time limit. Increase the difficulty only when the dog succeeds in the easier situation.

The breed's background as a rat catcher makes it sensible to take reactions to movement and an interest in chasing seriously. It does not mean that every Standard Schnauzer chases to the same degree or has a particular recall “score”. Practise recall with gradually stronger distractions and use a long line or enclosed area until you know how your dog responds to wildlife, cats, cyclists and runners. A safety measure is not a training failure.

Scent work, tracking, rally obedience and other co-operative activities can suit the breed well, but choose activities according to the dog's body, motivation and ability to recover. The aim is a sustainable routine, not to fill the diary with as many activities as possible.

## Health

The Standard Schnauzer is described as a broadly healthy breed, but a puppy buyer should pay particular attention to hips, diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's openness. The current Swedish breed strategy also monitors gastrointestinal problems, mammary and skin tumours, and claw injuries.

Hip dysplasia, or HD, has a complex background in which both heredity and environment play a part. A and B denote normal hips, C mild dysplasia, D moderate dysplasia and E severe dysplasia. A radiograph shows the shape of the joint, not automatically whether the dog is in pain. Even two dogs graded A or B can produce offspring with HD, particularly when other close relatives have poorer hips.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for a known hip score on the Standard Schnauzer. This should not be confused with the breed strategy's monitoring of HD and its aim to increase the number of screened dogs. Ask for the parents' official results and look at siblings and previous offspring as well. This gives you a broader basis for judging the results without misrepresenting a recommendation as a registration rule.

The health surveys underlying parts of the breed strategy received 121 and 303 responses respectively. They identify issues the breed club needs to monitor, but do not provide reliable odds for the whole population. Ask the breeder about diagnosed gastrointestinal disease, mammary or skin tumours and recurring claw injuries in the parents, siblings and previous litters. That is more relevant than a long list of eye, heart or DNA tests borrowed from the Miniature or Giant Schnauzer.

Temperament information is also part of the overall picture. A BPH result can provide an indication about a parent, but it should be considered alongside everyday behaviour, relatives and the breeder's objectives.

## History & Origins

The Standard Schnauzer developed in southern Germany as a robust farm and stable dog. It was at home around horses, watched over its surroundings and caught rats quickly, earning the dog type the popular name “Rattler”. When the Pinscher-Schnauzer club was founded in 1895, the breed was entered as the wire-haired Pinscher.

The Swedish breed strategy states that the word “Schnauzer” appeared in literature in 1842 and probably refers to the characteristic moustache. Names subsequently changed. In the Swedish stud book the breed was called the German wire-haired Pinscher in 1913, Schnauzer from 1928 and Medium Schnauzer from 1942. In 2003, the Swedish breed name returned to Schnauzer.

This is the securely documented core. There are further stories about the breed's past, but they are less well supported and are not needed to understand today's Standard Schnauzer.

## Living with the Breed

The Standard Schnauzer can live in a house or flat if it receives daily activity, rest and help in coping with its surroundings. In a flat, how easily sounds carry matters more than floor area: notice how the dog responds to the front door, lift and neighbours, and teach a calm alternative to continued alerting. Safe and straightforward access to walks makes everyday life considerably easier.

An adult must supervise interactions with children. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. A robust body does not oblige a dog to tolerate being clung to, interrupted sleep or rough play.

Time alone is introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a trained adult may manage a few hours. Increase the time according to the dog's behaviour and step back if it shows distress or cannot settle. A breed label cannot supply a safe time limit.

The same caution applies to other animals. The ratting background can make small, fast-moving animals difficult for some individuals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings short and always give the cat escape routes. How quickly the animals can have more freedom depends on how calm they are together, not how long they have lived under the same roof.

Before buying, it is particularly useful to check:

- that advice about size, health and daily life concerns the Standard Schnauzer rather than another schnauzer breed;
- the parents' registration numbers, official hip results and the health of close relatives;
- BPH or MH descriptions alongside the parents' everyday behaviour;
- how the breeder works with sociability, vigilance, recovery and co-operation;
- which grooming routine the puppy is used to and who can teach it to you;
- how gastrointestinal problems, tumours and claw injuries have been followed up in previous litters.

A good match is a home that appreciates an alert dog that enjoys working, has time for coat care and can balance activity with calm. Anyone seeking a dog guaranteed to be quiet, allergy-safe or uncomplicated should look beyond the Standard Schnauzer's handsome beard.

Standard Schnauzer

The Schnauzer Club of Great Britain

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Swedish Schnauzer Club)

Pinscher Schnauzer Klub (Germany)

Medium, robust farm‑bred dog with a wiry low‑shedding coat in pepper‑and‑salt or black. Intelligent, watchful and protective yet affectionate and playful. Needs daily exercise, mental work, early socialization and regular grooming; generally healthy and long‑lived.

Kennel Grimeton Ziers är en kennel som ligger i Varberg på en gård och drivs av mig, Amanda och min mamma Karin. Vi startade kenneln 2017. Vi föder upp Schnauzer peppar och salt i en familjekär miljö där valpar och hundar tas om hand på bästa möjliga sätt.

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