## Quick Facts

The Papillon is a small, lively and quick-learning companion dog that often suits someone who wants to combine closeness with walks, training and everyday enrichment. The breed belongs to the Épagneul Nain Continental, or Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon has erect ears, while the Phalène variety has drop ears. In Sweden they are registered according to ear carriage, and a dog can be re-registered if its ears develop differently from the initial assessment.

- **Origin:** France and Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Height at the withers:** about 28 cm according to the breed standard
- **Weight:** the standard has two weight classes. The larger ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 kg for males and up to 5 kg for females. The other covers dogs under 2.5 kg, with 1.5 kg as the minimum weight.
- **Coat:** long, silky and without an undercoat
- **Activity level:** small in stature but often lively, willing to work and keen to learn
- **Longevity:** many reach an advanced age; according to the Swedish Kennel Club, 15 years is not unusual

Measurements in a breed standard describe an ideal, not a promise that every adult dog will be exactly that size. For a prospective owner, the parents’ size, the dog’s body condition and sound construction are therefore more useful than pursuing a particular figure or an extremely small individual.

## Appearance & Coat

The Papillon should be a harmoniously built toy dog that is graceful yet robust. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, light and elegant. Its small size calls for care around falls and play with much larger dogs, but the breed standard does not describe the Papillon as a fragile dog.

The large ears are the breed’s most distinctive feature. In the Papillon they stand erect and are carried obliquely outwards, resembling a butterfly’s wings. The Phalène instead has mobile drop ears. The difference is therefore ear carriage; both are varieties of the same Continental Toy Spaniel and can be born in the same litter.

The coat is single, without an undercoat, and should be abundant, glossy and slightly wavy rather than curly. It is short on the head and fronts of the legs but longer over the body, ears, chest, thighs and tail. White is the ground colour and must predominate on the body and legs. Coloured patches may be of different colours, while the lips, eye rims and nose should be well pigmented under the standard.

Coat care is usually manageable if tangles are prevented. Check the coat regularly and comb especially behind the ears and on the inner thighs, where the Swedish Kennel Club says tangles may readily form. Bathe the dog when it is dirty; no fixed calendar suits every individual. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. Base care on the dog’s actual coat and daily life rather than a fixed bathing or clipping routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Papillon is typically alert, lively and quick to learn, with a marked interest in people and activities. Its small body often contains more willingness to work than the label “lapdog” suggests. A Papillon may enjoy both close company and tasks involving concentration, problem-solving or body awareness.

Breed descriptions should not, however, be read as a guarantee of a particular personality. The Swedish Kennel Club’s BPH behavioural analysis shows considerable variation among participating Papillons, including how intensely they greet strangers, how readily they play and how curious they are. The results apply to the dogs assessed and primarily show why the individual, family lines, early experiences and continuing training all matter.

Alertness may show in how quickly the dog notices sounds, visitors and movement outside the home. This need not become a major barking problem, but it is sensible to reward calm behaviour from the start, give the dog an alternative task at the door and avoid allowing every signal to lead to excitement. Ask the breeder how the parents function in daily life, not only how they behave at shows or during training.

## Training & Exercise

The Papillon needs physical movement and mental enrichment every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy, fit adult can often join surprisingly substantial walks, while a puppy, older dog or individual with a health problem needs a different load. Adjust activity to age, fitness, weather and recovery rather than treating body size as a measure of need.

The breed often learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training with clear criteria works well. Vary everyday obedience, scent work, balance exercises and small problem-solving tasks, and finish while the dog can still concentrate. Agility, obedience and other dog sports can be a good fit when training is developed gradually and the surface, obstacles and load are adapted to the dog’s size and maturity.

A small dog needs the same care with recall and exposure to different environments as a large one. Practise engagement and returning in safe places before allowing freedom where traffic, wildlife or larger dogs could present a risk. Also teach the dog to settle between activities. A Papillon given only high-energy tasks may become very good at getting excited but less skilled at relaxing again.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Papillon as a generally sound and often long-lived breed, but responsible health screening remains important. For Swedish litters, pap-PRA1 is the clearest formal checkpoint. Pap-PRA1 is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, which damages the retina. It is autosomal recessive: a carrier has one copy of the variant and does not develop that particular form, while a genetically affected dog has inherited the variant from both parents.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result for pap-PRA1 or to be recorded as hereditarily clear. Two carriers may not be mated, and an affected dog may not be used for breeding. A pap-PRA1 DNA test does not, however, rule out every other genetic cause of PRA or other eye diseases. An eye examination therefore serves a different purpose. The Swedish breed club, Papillon-Ringen, recommends an eye examination after three years of age to monitor other eye changes.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known normal patella result before mating. This is an important recommendation, but the current Swedish Kennel Club rules do not list patella status as a specific registration requirement for the Papillon. Ask to see the result rather than assuming registration itself covers it.

In other countries, recommended programmes may include additional tests. For example, the UK’s Royal Kennel Club lists an NAD test among the additional checks for the Papillon. This does not make NAD a Swedish registration requirement. Ask the breeder to distinguish between mandatory Swedish results, breed-club recommendations and optional additional tests.

Oral health also deserves attention. Small dog breeds are more often affected by periodontal disease, and daily tooth brushing is a simple way to reduce the risk of severe tartar and painful periodontitis. Bad breath, bleeding gums or reluctance to chew should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Papillon originates from France and Belgium and is the erect-eared variety of the Continental Toy Spaniel. The type has been documented since the 16th century and appeared as a companion dog at European courts. The name Papillon means butterfly in French and refers to the large, obliquely carried ears with long fringes. Phalène means moth and is the name used for the drop-eared variety.

The FCI recognises the breed as number 77 in the companion and toy dog group. The modern standard retains both the Papillon and the Phalène. Its history explains the breed’s role as a companion, but the modern Papillon is not merely decorative: its liveliness and readiness to learn are evident in many present-day dog activities.

## Living with the Breed

The Papillon can live well in either a flat or a house when given daily activity, closeness and help learning to settle. The size of the home matters less than the shape of everyday life. A home where many sounds carry requires extra work on calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows, as an alert individual may otherwise begin to comment on every change.

The breed can live well with children, but this depends on the dog’s temperament, the child’s behaviour and adult supervision. Teach children to leave the dog undisturbed while it sleeps or eats, not to pick it up or grab it, and to play at floor level under supervision. This protects both dog and child and is more accurate than a general “child-friendly” label.

The same individual assessment is needed with other animals. A Papillon can live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Give the animals separate resources and places to retreat, and supervise play where there is a large difference in size. A friendly large dog can injure a very small dog accidentally.

Being left alone is a skill, not something that can be assumed from breed. Accustom the dog gradually to short periods alone and increase them only while it remains relaxed. Barking, whining, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing a normally valued reward can indicate that the step was too large.

Before buying a puppy, check more than its appearance. Ask to see the parents’ registered pap-PRA1 results, patella status and any eye results, and ask why that particular mating was chosen. Meet the dam and notice how the dogs recover after new sounds and visitors. For a puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, you should receive the registration certificate, the Swedish Kennel Club contract and a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old on the day of handover. Screening reduces risk but can never guarantee a particular state of health or personality; open documentation and realistic expectations therefore matter more than promises.

Papillon

Papillon Breed Club UK

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Papillon is a small, elegant toy dog with large butterfly-like ears, a fine, silky parti-coloured coat and a plumed tail. Lively, intelligent and highly trainable, it enjoys activity and mental stimulation, makes an alert watchdog, needs regular brushing, and often lives into the mid–late teens.

Seize the Day är en uppfödare av rasen Papillon med bas i Skurup i Sverige.

Seize the Day

## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Rottweiler valpar efter friska meriterade föräldrar

M and Jenny's

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Vildtassarnas är en uppfödare av rasen Tysk Schäferhund med bas i Sala i Sverige. Uppfödningen inleddes 2016.

Vildtassarnas

## Quick Facts

The Standard Schnauzer is a medium-sized, active and watchful dog from Germany. This page concerns the medium-sized breed known in Swedish simply as Schnauzer. The name is not an umbrella term for the Miniature Schnauzer, Standard Schnauzer and Giant Schnauzer; these are three separate breeds with their own standards and partly different health concerns.

- The FCI places the Standard Schnauzer in Group 2 and lists Germany as its country of origin.
- The standard gives a height of 45–50 cm and a weight of 14–20 kg for both dogs and bitches.
- The body is strong, compact and approximately square.
- The recognised colours are pure black with black undercoat and pepper and salt.
- The coat is double, dense and wiry and needs regular combing and trimming.
- The breed ideal combines a lively temperament with thoughtful calm, playfulness, loyalty and vigilance.

The Standard Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and do things with their dog, while also teaching it to settle. A first-time owner can do well if daily life includes reward-based training, coat care and clear routines. The breed name cannot, however, guarantee how easy an individual dog will be. The behaviour of the parents and adult relatives is more informative.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Schnauzer is unmistakably medium-sized: 45–50 cm and 14–20 kg apply to both sexes. It should be more compact than slender, with height at the withers roughly equal to body length. The long head, beard and bushy eyebrows create the characteristic expression.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The topcoat should be wiry rather than soft, wavy or silky. A black Standard Schnauzer should be pure black, including the undercoat. Pepper and salt can range from dark iron grey to silver grey, but should have a harmonious dark mask. Clearly light markings on the head, chest or legs are undesirable under the standard.

Coat care is a regular part of life with the breed. As a practical guide, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests trimming about four times a year and combing at least weekly. Trimming removes old topcoat so that the wiry texture can be maintained. Owners who clip the coat still need to comb through the beard, eyebrows, belly and leg furnishings and prevent mats next to the skin. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how dogs from that particular line are groomed; a practical lesson is more useful than a generic timetable.

A well-kept, trimmed Standard Schnauzer often sheds little loose hair, but the breed is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin cells, saliva, urine and substances from the sebaceous glands, among other sources. Low shedding therefore cannot predict how an allergic person will react. Seek medical advice before buying a dog instead of relying on claims based on breed alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Standard Schnauzer should be lively, good-natured, playful and watchful while also capable of calm. It is often attentive to people, sounds and movement around the home. The breed's earlier work as a farm and guard dog is consequently more apparent in some individuals than in others.

The Swedish Kennel Club's current BPH analysis, produced after the breed passed 200 assessments, is particularly useful because it shows the variation behind the breed description. The dataset includes 284 Standard Schnauzers assessed through BPH, but only about 12 per cent of Swedish-born dogs born from 2010 to 2023 took part. The results therefore describe the participating dogs, not every member of the breed. The group includes dogs that do not greet a stranger and dogs that greet intensely. Interest in play also varies considerably. Few showed threatening behaviour towards a stranger, while responses varied more when a disguised person approached in an unusual way.

For a prospective puppy owner, the conclusion is practical: do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to see how they receive visitors, accept handling, recover after a surprise and move from activity to rest. Their BPH or MH records can also be useful, but BPH is a description, not a test with a pass or fail result.

The breed standard says that the Standard Schnauzer should be vigilant without being noisy. That is a breeding ideal, not a promise of silence. In a home where sound travels easily, reward calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows from the start, and teach the dog what to do after it has noticed a sound.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Schnauzer needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but its needs cannot be calculated with a fixed number of minutes. A good routine alternates walks, free movement in a secure place, scent work, everyday training, play and recovery. Judge the outcome: the dog should be able to work willingly, remain responsive to its handler and then settle, rather than becoming increasingly overstimulated.

Training should be positive, reward-based and progressive. Make the desired behaviour clear and adapt the reward to the individual; food, play and the opportunity to sniff vary in value from one dog to another. Short sessions can be useful when a young dog loses focus, but there is no universal time limit. Increase the difficulty only when the dog succeeds in the easier situation.

The breed's background as a rat catcher makes it sensible to take reactions to movement and an interest in chasing seriously. It does not mean that every Standard Schnauzer chases to the same degree or has a particular recall “score”. Practise recall with gradually stronger distractions and use a long line or enclosed area until you know how your dog responds to wildlife, cats, cyclists and runners. A safety measure is not a training failure.

Scent work, tracking, rally obedience and other co-operative activities can suit the breed well, but choose activities according to the dog's body, motivation and ability to recover. The aim is a sustainable routine, not to fill the diary with as many activities as possible.

## Health

The Standard Schnauzer is described as a broadly healthy breed, but a puppy buyer should pay particular attention to hips, diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's openness. The current Swedish breed strategy also monitors gastrointestinal problems, mammary and skin tumours, and claw injuries.

Hip dysplasia, or HD, has a complex background in which both heredity and environment play a part. A and B denote normal hips, C mild dysplasia, D moderate dysplasia and E severe dysplasia. A radiograph shows the shape of the joint, not automatically whether the dog is in pain. Even two dogs graded A or B can produce offspring with HD, particularly when other close relatives have poorer hips.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for a known hip score on the Standard Schnauzer. This should not be confused with the breed strategy's monitoring of HD and its aim to increase the number of screened dogs. Ask for the parents' official results and look at siblings and previous offspring as well. This gives you a broader basis for judging the results without misrepresenting a recommendation as a registration rule.

The health surveys underlying parts of the breed strategy received 121 and 303 responses respectively. They identify issues the breed club needs to monitor, but do not provide reliable odds for the whole population. Ask the breeder about diagnosed gastrointestinal disease, mammary or skin tumours and recurring claw injuries in the parents, siblings and previous litters. That is more relevant than a long list of eye, heart or DNA tests borrowed from the Miniature or Giant Schnauzer.

Temperament information is also part of the overall picture. A BPH result can provide an indication about a parent, but it should be considered alongside everyday behaviour, relatives and the breeder's objectives.

## History & Origins

The Standard Schnauzer developed in southern Germany as a robust farm and stable dog. It was at home around horses, watched over its surroundings and caught rats quickly, earning the dog type the popular name “Rattler”. When the Pinscher-Schnauzer club was founded in 1895, the breed was entered as the wire-haired Pinscher.

The Swedish breed strategy states that the word “Schnauzer” appeared in literature in 1842 and probably refers to the characteristic moustache. Names subsequently changed. In the Swedish stud book the breed was called the German wire-haired Pinscher in 1913, Schnauzer from 1928 and Medium Schnauzer from 1942. In 2003, the Swedish breed name returned to Schnauzer.

This is the securely documented core. There are further stories about the breed's past, but they are less well supported and are not needed to understand today's Standard Schnauzer.

## Living with the Breed

The Standard Schnauzer can live in a house or flat if it receives daily activity, rest and help in coping with its surroundings. In a flat, how easily sounds carry matters more than floor area: notice how the dog responds to the front door, lift and neighbours, and teach a calm alternative to continued alerting. Safe and straightforward access to walks makes everyday life considerably easier.

An adult must supervise interactions with children. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. A robust body does not oblige a dog to tolerate being clung to, interrupted sleep or rough play.

Time alone is introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a trained adult may manage a few hours. Increase the time according to the dog's behaviour and step back if it shows distress or cannot settle. A breed label cannot supply a safe time limit.

The same caution applies to other animals. The ratting background can make small, fast-moving animals difficult for some individuals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings short and always give the cat escape routes. How quickly the animals can have more freedom depends on how calm they are together, not how long they have lived under the same roof.

Before buying, it is particularly useful to check:

- that advice about size, health and daily life concerns the Standard Schnauzer rather than another schnauzer breed;
- the parents' registration numbers, official hip results and the health of close relatives;
- BPH or MH descriptions alongside the parents' everyday behaviour;
- how the breeder works with sociability, vigilance, recovery and co-operation;
- which grooming routine the puppy is used to and who can teach it to you;
- how gastrointestinal problems, tumours and claw injuries have been followed up in previous litters.

A good match is a home that appreciates an alert dog that enjoys working, has time for coat care and can balance activity with calm. Anyone seeking a dog guaranteed to be quiet, allergy-safe or uncomplicated should look beyond the Standard Schnauzer's handsome beard.

Standard Schnauzer

The Schnauzer Club of Great Britain

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Swedish Schnauzer Club)

Pinscher Schnauzer Klub (Germany)

Medium, robust farm‑bred dog with a wiry low‑shedding coat in pepper‑and‑salt or black. Intelligent, watchful and protective yet affectionate and playful. Needs daily exercise, mental work, early socialization and regular grooming; generally healthy and long‑lived.

Friends For All är en uppfödare av rasen Schnauzer med bas i Bua i Sverige. Uppfödningen har representerats av schnauzer i färgen peppar och salt i en uppfödargrupp 2022 och i en uppfödarklass 2026.

Friends For All

## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Vi föder upp både svarta och fawnfärgade mopsar enligt SKK’s regler och avtal. Våra avelsdjur är meriterade, friska och sunda hundar som lever med oss i familjen.

Lillskogsvändans

## Quick Facts

- The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey), usually called the gråhund in Sweden, is a Norwegian elk-hunting dog and one of the Nordic hunting spitz breeds.
- The breed mainly works off lead: it searches independently for elk and barks steadily once the elk stands.
- The breed standard gives an ideal height of 52 cm for males and 49 cm for females, but no official weight.
- The Grey Norwegian Elkhound is fearless, bold and energetic. Hunting drive, independence and barking are central working traits.
- Its dense double coat is grey with a dark mask and paler areas. The coat sheds and needs extra brushing when the undercoat comes loose.
- The breed is best suited to someone who can provide genuine hunting work or another demanding, regular occupation. The Swedish Kennel Club describes it as unsuitable as a companion dog alone.

## Appearance & Coat

The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey) is a medium-sized, square and compact spitz built for agility and sustained work in woodland. The body should be strong without becoming heavy, the ears small and erect, and the tail tightly curled over the centre line of the back. The ideal height is 52 cm for males and 49 cm for females. The breed standard gives no weight, so body condition and function are better guides than a general weight range.

The coat consists of a coarse, straight topcoat and a soft, dense undercoat. It is medium-length and lies shorter on the head and the front of the legs, while the ruff, thighs, backs of the forelegs and tail carry more coat. The colour may be darker or lighter grey because the topcoat has black tips. The chest, abdomen, legs, underside of the tail and the distinct harness marking are paler. The ears and front of the muzzle form a dark mask.

The coat does not need clipping. Brush it regularly, and more often when the undercoat is being shed, to remove loose hair and check the skin. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than following a fixed timetable. Check the paws, nails, skin and eyes at the same time, especially after hunting in dense terrain. Adjust work and recovery to the weather and the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey) is fearless, energetic and accustomed to making decisions at a distance from its handler. That does not mean the breed should be harsh or aggressive. A sound Grey Norwegian Elkhound should be able to switch between independent work in the forest and co-operation with its handler, but it is unlikely to be as responsive in every situation as a breed developed mainly for close handler work.

Barking is one of the breed's tools. During off-lead elk hunting, the dog searches independently and uses a calm, steady bark to show the hunter where the elk is standing. The same tendency may appear at home when the dog responds to movement, sounds or anticipation. Anyone living in a property with poor sound insulation should assess the individual dog's noise level and teach calm behaviour from the start. Promising a completely quiet Grey Norwegian Elkhound would not be realistic.

The breed can live well in a family, but “family dog” must not be taken to mean that its need to hunt disappears or that every individual will automatically suit children and other animals. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a protected place to rest undisturbed. Introduce other dogs calmly. Cats and small animals require particular thought because strong hunting motivation may be directed towards animals that run. Assess the individual dog's experience and behaviour rather than relying on a breed-wide guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

The Grey Norwegian Elkhound needs more than walks around the block. For most individuals, hunting is the most breed-appropriate outlet, and the Swedish Kennel Club considers the breed unsuitable as a companion dog alone. If the dog does not hunt, it needs a considered plan that might include tracking, search exercises, longer outings over varied ground and tasks that use scenting ability, stamina and problem-solving. These activities must be regular and meaningful enough; an occasional enrichment toy does not replace the work for which the breed was created.

There is no credible number of minutes that suits every Grey Norwegian Elkhound. Instead, assess whether the dog works both physically and mentally, can settle afterwards and recovers normally by the following day. Increase the workload gradually for puppies and young dogs. Long runs, hard pulling work and full days in the field should wait until the body is mature and fitness has been built step by step.

Training works best when it is reward-based, clear and varied. Start early with attention, recall, loose-lead walking, handling and a cue to interrupt barking or activity. Begin where distractions are mild and increase the difficulty slowly. Hunting interest can outweigh a familiar recall cue, so use a long line or enclosed area whenever safety is uncertain. The aim is not to remove the dog's independence but to build habits that make it manageable.

Plan for rest as well. A dog that becomes highly aroused at every sound, constantly patrols the garden or struggles to lie down after activity needs help learning to settle. Reward calm choices, reduce unnecessary triggers and make a clear distinction between work and recovery.

## Health

The Grey Norwegian Elkhound is described as generally healthy, but hip dysplasia and hereditary glaucoma are important areas to check. The Swedish breed clubs' breeding strategy also discusses conditions including PRA and hereditary kidney failure, but the evidence does not support turning every condition mentioned into a mandatory test or a fixed risk for every dog.

For breeding in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed has a hip dysplasia index, and an average index above 100 for the proposed pairing is recommended. Dogs graded D or E for hip dysplasia may not be used for breeding in this breed. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the parents' registered results and the pairing's current index, rather than accepting only that the hips have been “checked”.

A variant in the ADAMTS10 gene causes a recessively inherited form of primary open-angle glaucoma in the Norwegian Elkhound (Grey). The Swedish Kennel Club centrally records DNA results under a level 1 health programme. A carrier is not expected to develop this particular genetic form, but two carriers must not be mated. A genetically affected dog can be expected to develop the disease and must not be used for breeding. Central recording means that the result can be checked through the Swedish Kennel Club's services; it does not mean that the 2026 Swedish registration rules require a DNA result from every parent.

Glaucoma is painful and can lead to blindness. A red or enlarged eye, a dilated pupil that responds poorly to light, squinting or a greyish cornea requires prompt veterinary assessment. Do not wait for the next routine appointment.

The Swedish Kennel Club also records DNA tests for ITGA10-related dwarfism at level 1. This condition is also recessive: clear dogs do not carry the variant, carriers can pass it on without developing dwarfism themselves, and genetically affected dogs are expected to have the condition. Ask the breeder how the ADAMTS10 and ITGA10 results have been interpreted for the particular pairing. Also ask for an open account of glaucoma, PRA, kidney disease, skin lumps, mobility problems and work-related injuries in close relatives. Family history matters even when there is no simple test.

## History & Origins

The Grey Norwegian Elkhound has the form of a Nordic hunting spitz and a long history of use in Scandinavia, but an unbroken line from Stone Age or Viking dogs has not been documented. The Norwegian Kennel Club describes such claims as myths and places the development of the modern breed in the selective breeding of the nineteenth century. There is an important difference between an old type of dog and a breed with a documented stud book and standard.

A grey elkhound was shown in Kristiania, now Oslo, in 1877. The dog Bamse, born in 1865 and known as Gamle Bamse Gram, became important in the early documented breeding population. Norway published the first breed standard in 1905. In Sweden, the Grey Norwegian Elkhound and the Jämthund remained less clearly separated for many years before standards, breed organisations and hunting trials contributed to a clearer division during the twentieth century.

Work has remained central throughout. The Grey Norwegian Elkhound is used mainly as an off-lead elk dog that holds game at bay, but it can also work on a lead. During off-lead hunting it ranges away from the handler, finds the animal and tries to keep it in place with a calm standing bark so that the hunter can approach. Hunting trials have therefore influenced which qualities are preserved in breeding.

## Living with the Breed

The Norwegian Elkhound (Grey) is best suited to a home where someone wants to live with a working hunting dog, not merely its appearance. The key question is not whether the home is a house or a flat, but whether the dog receives the right work, recovery and everyday training. A flat may work for an individual dog, but sound insulation, barking, access to the countryside and daily practicalities must be assessed honestly.

A garden is useful but does not replace hunting, training or walks. Fencing needs to be secure, and the dog should not be left outside to invent its own occupation; that can reinforce barking and guarding. Being left alone should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in how quickly they learn to rest without company.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to the following:

- Do I have a realistic long-term plan for hunting or equally demanding scent and terrain work?
- Can I manage a dog that makes its own decisions and may sometimes choose game over my recall cue?
- Can my living environment accommodate a dog with a clear tendency to use its voice?
- Can I provide safe exercise, recovery, and coat and body checks after work in the forest?
- Can the breeder show official hip results, the relevant index, DNA results or a well-reasoned mating plan, and openly discuss health in the family?

For someone seeking an independent elk-hunting dog with a strong desire to work, the Grey Norwegian Elkhound can be a highly capable partner. For someone who mainly wants an easy-going companion, other breeds are likely to be a better fit.

Norwegian Elkhound (Grey)

Norsk Elghundklubb

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (SKK)

Ancient Nordic spitz bred for moose hunting; medium, sturdy and square with a thick grey double coat and curled tail. Loyal, vocal and independent, with strong guarding and prey instincts. Needs experienced, consistent training plus plenty of daily exercise and mental work.

Älgdalmyrens är en uppfödare av rasen Norsk älghund - Gråhund med bas i Sidensjö i Sverige. Uppfödningens historia med norsk älghund – gråhund går tillbaka till 2001. Jaktprov och utställningar har varit återkommande delar av verksamheten.

Älgdalmyrens

Skymberg's är en uppfödare av rasen Mops med bas i Bodafors i Sverige.

Skymberg's

## Quick Facts

The Dobermann is a German working breed for someone who wants to train, cooperate and keep their dog close in everyday life. The breed learns quickly, is physically strong and often forms a very close bond with its family. It needs an owner who can provide both purposeful activity and clear periods of rest — not just long walks.

- **A good fit if:** you want to work actively on everyday obedience, scent work or dog sport and have time for daily companionship.
- **A poorer fit if:** the dog will regularly be left alone for whole working days or is largely expected to exercise itself.
- **The key question when buying a puppy:** what is known about the heart health and temperament of the parents and close relatives, and can the breeder show dated results?
- **Size:** males 68–72 cm and about 40–45 kg; females 63–68 cm and about 32–35 kg, according to the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and without an undercoat; easy to care for but with limited protection from cold and wet weather.
- **Main health challenge:** dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, which can develop without visible signs.

A Dobermann can suit a committed first-time owner, but training and safe handling need to begin immediately. Access to a good puppy class, continuing support from an instructor and a realistic daily plan matter more than the label ‘experienced dog owner’.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dobermann is a medium-sized, powerful and almost squarely built dog that should combine muscle with elegance. The FCI standard recognises two colours: black or brown, both with clearly defined rust-red markings.

The ears are left natural and should ideally lie close to the cheeks. The tail is also natural and is ideally carried high in a slight curve. In Sweden, cropping the ears or docking the tail is prohibited unless the procedure is necessary for veterinary reasons.

The short, smooth coat normally needs only occasional brushing and a bath when the dog is dirty. Check the nails, ears, skin and paws at the same time. The coat has no undercoat, and short-haired dogs can become cold more quickly than well-coated breeds. Adapt to the individual dog, the weather and the activity: a well-fitting coat can be sensible in cold or wet conditions or during periods of inactivity. Dry the dog after wet walks and keep it moving when outside in cold weather.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, calm, self-confident and willing worker with a good connection to its handler. Many Dobermanns are playful, attentive and closely attached to their family. They notice changes around them quickly and usually want to be involved, which can create a very close working relationship.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every dog. Information from the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club shows that sociability and fears still need to be taken seriously. Look at the complete MH profiles of both parents rather than merely checking that they ‘have done MH’. MH records the dog’s reactions; it does not award a pass or fail. Pay particular attention to contact with people, fears, recovery and response to gunshot, and ask how siblings and older relatives behave in everyday life.

Dobermanns often have an interest in chasing and may react quickly to movement. Whether a dog can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and training. A breed name can never promise trouble-free relationships. Ask the breeder to describe the parents’ social behaviour in concrete terms and plan new introductions calmly and under control.

## Training & Exercise

A Dobermann needs physical activity and purposeful mental work every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, temperament and fitness determine the appropriate load. For an adult dog, the best routine combines walks and time to move freely with short training sessions, scent work and recovery.

Prioritise skills that make a strong, watchful dog safe to live with:

- walking on a loose lead and keeping in touch despite distractions
- recall and the ability to break focus on wildlife or other movement
- calm behaviour at the door, with visitors, around other dogs and during handling
- waiting, settling and giving up items on cue
- scent work, tracking or searching in which the dog has a clear task to solve

Train with rewards, clarity and consistency. High expectations without understandable guidance do not create stability. Vary the tasks and finish while the dog is still succeeding. A Dobermann also needs to learn how to switch off; more speed is not always the answer to stress or restlessness.

Puppies and adolescents should not follow an adult dog’s exercise programme. Focus on play, gradual exposure to the environment, body awareness and short skills sessions, then increase the load as the dog matures. Anyone planning to cycle, run long distances or take part in demanding dog sport should time the start according to the individual dog’s development and veterinary advice.

## Health

DCM is the most important health risk to understand before buying a Dobermann. The disease weakens the heart muscle and can cause abnormal rhythms. It can be present at a preclinical stage, when the dog appears healthy, and a normal result on one occasion does not rule out disease developing later.

A full DCM screen includes both echocardiography and a 24-hour Holter ECG. The ultrasound assesses the dimensions and pumping function of the heart, among other things, while the Holter records its rhythm over a full day. Results are recorded centrally under the Swedish Kennel Club’s level 1 programme, but level 1 does not make the examination a registration requirement. A dog must be at least three years old to receive an official normal status, and the result is valid for 12 months. The Swedish Dobermann Club recommends that breeding dogs aged three or over have a full screen within a year before mating.

Ask to see the date and both parts of each parent’s screen. Also ask about heart health, lifespan and causes of death among older close relatives. A DNA test cannot replace echocardiography and Holter monitoring, and the phrase ‘heart tested’ is insufficient without the method, date and result.

Other documented problems in the breed include hip dysplasia, the eye condition PHTVL/PHPV, von Willebrand disease, which affects blood clotting, and Wobbler syndrome, which affects the cervical spine and nervous system. Wobbler syndrome can, among other signs, cause neck pain or difficulty coordinating movement. Such changes, as well as fainting or a marked loss of stamina, require veterinary assessment.

For Swedish litter registration, the parents must have official hip dysplasia status. Parents resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have ‘known mental status’. For dogs born in 2016 or later, this means a complete MH with all 33 entries completed; the handler may decline the gunshot component. The breed has an HD index, the parents’ average index at mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded D or E must not be used for breeding.

The published breed-specific breeding strategy recommends a vWD test unless the dog’s clear status is established by parentage, with at least one genetically clear parent, and also covers PHTVL/PHPV. Distinguish such breed-club guidance from the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules and ask for current eye examination results. Check the information yourself in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata services. Healthy, tested parents reduce risk but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The Dobermann was developed in Apolda, Germany, during the 1870s and is named after Friedrich Louis Dobermann. He worked as a tax collector and dog catcher, among other roles, and selected dogs with clear guarding and working qualities. The FCI history particularly identifies the ‘butcher’s dogs’ of the period, a forerunner of the Rottweiler, and a black, rust-marked shepherd type from Thuringia as important foundations.

The dogs were used early on as farm, guard and police dogs. This helps explain the breed’s combination of attentiveness, courage, connection with its handler and desire to work. Today, the Dobermann remains a working and sporting dog, but can also be a companion and family dog in a home able to meet the same need for cooperation and purposeful tasks.

## Living with the Breed

A Dobermann does not require one particular type of home, but it does require a workable daily routine. Flat living can work if the dog is active outdoors, can settle indoors and does not become watchful at every sound. Think practically about noise carrying between homes, access to outdoor space and an undisturbed resting place.

The breed often wants to stay close and is not suited to being left alone for whole days on a regular basis. A young puppy cannot be left alone. An adult trained to cope alone can generally manage a few hours, but individual differences are considerable. Increase the time in small steps and arrange help if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress.

With children, a stable and well-trained Dobermann can be a close member of the family, but its size and speed require adult supervision. A dog and a small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically control.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can I give the dog work and recovery every day? Can I handle a strong dog safely when something unexpected happens? Can the breeder show clear, dated records for hearts, hips, temperament and close relatives? If any answer is no, it is wiser to wait or choose a less demanding breed.

Dobermann

Verein für Deutsche Hunde (VDH)

Dobermann Club of the United Kingdom

The Dobermann is a medium‑large, athletic German working dog with a short, sleek coat and rust markings. Highly intelligent, loyal and people‑oriented, it needs extensive daily exercise, training and close companionship. Naturally alert, its temperament depends heavily on breeding and socialisation.

Glyxenborg's är en uppfödare av rasen Dobermann med bas i Trollhättan i Sverige.

Glyxenborg's

## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Lindvattnet's kennel är en uppfödare av rasen Tibetansk spaniel med bas i Säter i Sverige. Kenneln har haft sitt kennelnamn registrerat i Sverige sedan 2009.

Lindvattnet’s kennel

## Quick Facts

The Cane Corso is an FCI-recognised breed from Italy. It belongs to Group 2 and is a molossoid of mastiff type, not a crossbreed or a generic name for large guard dogs.

- **Size:** males 64–68 cm and 45–50 kg; females 60–64 cm and 40–45 kg. Weight should be proportionate to the dog's size.
- **Function:** a versatile working dog with a documented background as a guardian of property, family, and livestock.
- **Temperament:** alert, mobile, and highly trainable according to the breed standard. The breed may be reserved with strangers, but fear and unjustified aggression are not part of the ideal.
- **Activity:** needs physical exercise, mental engagement, and continued training every day. There is no credible minute-by-minute schedule that suits every individual.
- **Coat:** short, glossy, and dense with some undercoat; brush and bathe as needed.
- **Owner:** the Swedish Kennel Club considers the breed generally unsuitable as a first dog. Its size, strength, and guarding behaviour require an experienced owner.
- **Before buying a puppy in Sweden:** check the parents' official hip dysplasia (HD) and elbow dysplasia (ED) results, completed BPH behavioural assessment when a parent lives in Sweden, and how the breeder has assessed DSRA status and temperament in the pairing.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cane Corso should be powerful without becoming heavy or exaggerated. The breed standard describes a robust dog with a degree of elegance, lean musculature, and a body approximately 11 per cent longer than its height. It should move with long, efficient strides.

The head is large and typical of a molossoid, but an extremely short muzzle is not correct breed type. The muzzle should be about half the length of the skull, powerful, deep, and square. Wide nostrils, sound eyelids, and unrestricted breathing matter more than an exaggerated “massive” expression. The Nordic Kennel Union's Breed Specific Instructions particularly identify an overly short muzzle, pinched nostrils, loose eyelids, insufficient rear angulation, and inefficient movement.

Under the current standard, the ears should be triangular, hanging, and uncropped. The tail should be natural, thick at the root, and never carried upright or curled. Cropping is therefore not a requirement of correct breed type.

The coat should be short, glossy, and very dense with some undercoat. The standard lists black; several shades of grey, also termed blue; light or dark fawn; stag red; dark wheaten; and black or grey brindle. In fawn and brindle dogs, the black or grey mask must not extend above the eyes. A small white patch on the chest, toe tips, or bridge of the nose is accepted. Merle is not among the colours permitted by the standard.

Coat care is straightforward but still necessary. Brush when the dog is shedding or loose hair needs removing, bathe when dirty, and check the skin, ears, nails, and teeth at the same time. A fixed bathing or brushing schedule is less useful than the dog's actual needs.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cane Corso is a guard dog, but guarding instinct is not the same as aggression. The breed's documented task is to guard property, family, and livestock. In everyday life, this may appear as attention to visitors, sounds, and changes in the environment, together with a reserved attitude towards unfamiliar people.

There is considerable variation in both working traits and everyday behaviour. A confident dog may have no interest in greeting without being afraid. At the same time, it should be able to let go of suspicion, remain neutral in ordinary situations, and accept necessary handling. Excessive suspicion, severe fear, or aggression should never be excused as “typical of the breed.”

This is generally a poor choice for an inexperienced dog owner. Experience means being able to read signs of stress, train a very strong dog without a power struggle, plan visits and dog encounters, and seek help early. An adult dog needs to be able to walk on a lead, wait at the door, disengage on cue, and accept examination.

A Cane Corso can live in a family with children, but the breed name does not guarantee that a particular dog is suitable for children. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it is left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog whose strength they cannot manage.

The same individual assessment applies to other dogs and cats. Introducing a cat requires gradual habituation, separate safe areas, and the ability to interrupt the interaction. A dog that strongly chases small animals is not automatically a safe companion for a cat.

## Training & Exercise

The Cane Corso needs an active life, but quality and control matter more than a fixed number of exercise minutes. Each day should include walks and other physical movement, mental activity, and opportunities to settle. Adapt the load to age, health, surface, and recovery; a growing young dog should not follow the training plan of a fully mature adult.

Tracking, search work, nose work, and obedience give the dog opportunities to cooperate and use its nose. A garden provides freedom of movement but does not replace walks, environmental training, or shared activity. The dog also needs to be able to settle indoors.

Reward-based training is the right starting point even for a large guard dog. Harsh corrections, intimidation, and dominance-based thinking can increase conflict and distress; clarity comes from well-taught cues, consistent routines, and a thoughtfully managed environment. Prioritise these skills early:

- walking on a loose lead and a reliable recall
- stop and release cues
- waiting calmly at doors, gates, and the car
- going to a designated resting place when visitors arrive
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears, and body
- passing people and dogs neutrally

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy should greet everyone. The aim is for it to experience people, animals, traffic, surfaces, and new environments without feeling a need to defend itself or push forward. Short, controlled experiences in which the dog feels safe are more valuable than numerous forced encounters.

## Health

Joint health is the clearest health priority for the Cane Corso in Sweden. The current breed-specific breeding strategy particularly highlights hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and other joint injuries. Eyes and eyelids are another priority, especially cherry eye, entropion, and ectropion. The Breed Specific Instructions also emphasise rear angulation, muzzle length, open nostrils, close-fitting eyelids, movement, and confident handling.

Puppy buyers need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules from breed-club recommendations. Under the 2026 rules for the Cane Corso:

- Parent dogs must have official HD status before mating. Dogs graded HD D or E may not be used for breeding.
- Parent dogs must have official ED status before mating. ED grade 2 or 3, clinical symptoms, or surgery because of ED exclude a dog from breeding.
- Parent dogs resident in Sweden must have completed BPH before mating. For dogs assessed before 1 January 2019, known mental status from MH may replace BPH.

The breed club additionally recommends that the parents' mean HD index and mean ED index at the time of mating exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with binding registration rules.

DSRA, Dental Skeletal Retinal Anomaly, is a serious recessively inherited disease that can affect the teeth, skeleton, and vision, among other systems. A puppy becomes affected when it inherits the variant from both parents; a dog with one copy is a carrier. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to register DSRA test results centrally. This does not mean that every breeding dog automatically has to be tested. Ask the breeder to show how the parents' status was assessed and why the pairing cannot produce affected puppies.

Look at the dogs as well as the certificates. Parent dogs should be able to move efficiently, breathe quietly and without difficulty, have healthy eyes, and accept handling without severe fear. Ask about serious diagnoses in close relatives. A normal test result does not guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy.

## History & Origins

The Cane Corso is an Italian breed whose official standard traces it primarily to ancient Roman molossoid dogs. After the type had previously existed across larger parts of Italy, it was preserved in more recent centuries mainly in and around Apulia in southern Italy. The standard links the name to the Latin *cohors*, meaning defender and guardian of the farmyard.

The breed worked as a farm and guard dog, drove livestock, and was also used to hunt big game. This explains its combination of strength, mobility, endurance, and independent vigilance better than stories that portray it only as a war dog.

The FCI recognised the Cane Corso provisionally in 1996 and definitively in 2007. Today it is listed as an Italian molossoid of mastiff type in Group 2 and as a breed subject to a working trial. Its historical work remains relevant when deciding whether the breed suits a particular way of life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Cane Corso primarily requires planning for a large dog that independently notices what is happening around it. The type of home is not the whole answer. A flat can work for an individual whose needs are met and who can settle, but narrow entrances, lifts, frequent dog encounters, and many visitors place high demands on training and practical control. A large garden does not solve those demands by itself.

Visitor routines should be in place before the dog tries to manage the front door for the family. Provide a resting place behind a gate or in a separate room, teach a calm routine, and do not allow the dog to practise rushing forward or making decisions about guests. Homes with children or other animals need separate areas and adults who can apply the rules every day, not only after a problem has appeared.

Time alone should be trained gradually. Begin with very short periods, increase them only when the dog can rest, and adjust the training if it shows anxiety or distress. There is no reliable breed rule for how many hours a Cane Corso can cope with; arrangements must reflect the individual dog's age, confidence, and need for toilet breaks and social contact.

Before buying, meet several adult Cane Corsos, preferably away from their homes as well. Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check HD, ED, and BPH in official records. Ask about DSRA status, temperament, serious diagnoses in the family, the puppies' environmental training, and support after collection. Observe whether the adults can breathe, move, and be handled without difficulty.

The right home provides clear routines, reward-based training, daily activity, and calm recovery. If you want a dog that welcomes every person and dog without preparation, or if you cannot manage encounters and visitors, the Cane Corso is probably the wrong choice. For an experienced owner who values the breed's working ability and takes responsibility for its strength, however, it can become a close and cooperative everyday companion.

Cane Corso

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Società Amatori Cane Corso (Italy)

The Cane Corso is a large, athletic Italian mastiff with a short, easy-care coat and strong guarding instincts. Deeply devoted and sensitive, it needs experienced, consistent handling, thorough socialization, and substantial daily exercise and training to stay balanced.

Miss Magikas är en uppfödare av rasen Cane corso med bas i Vinslöv i Sverige.

Miss Magikas

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

koms är en uppfödare av rasen Malteser med bas i Ljungbyhed i Sverige.

koms

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

Alelunds är en uppfödare av rasen Siberian husky med bas i Lövestad i Sverige. Verksamheten bedrivs på en fyrlängad skånegård. Den första siberian huskyn kom våren 2003, och den första kullen föddes 2004.

Alelunds

## Quick Facts

The Bostonterrier is a small American companion dog whose breed standard calls for a friendly, lively and intelligent temperament. It is often sociable and keen to take part, but its short muzzle makes breathing and temperature regulation important points to check, both when choosing a puppy and when planning daily exercise.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Size:** The breed standard has three weight classes: under 6.8 kg, 6.8–9 kg and 9–11.3 kg. It gives no official height at the withers.
- **Coat:** Short, smooth and easy to care for.
- **Activity:** A lively dog that needs physical and mental activity every day, with the amount adjusted to the individual dog's breathing, age, fitness and the weather.
- **Before buying:** Ask to see both parents' respiratory assessment, eye examination and patella results, together with their DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bostonterrier should be compact, well balanced and free-moving, without exaggeration in any feature. The head is short, but under the breed standard the muzzle must be no longer than one third of the length of the skull. The nostrils should be open, the eyes should not be excessively prominent and the short tail should be natural from birth.

Accepted colours are brindle, seal or black with white markings. The white markings are an important part of the breed's appearance, but colour and symmetry say nothing about health. Function matters more: the dog should be able to breathe freely, move without restriction and close its eyelids properly.

The short, close coat generally needs little work. Brush and bathe as required, and check the nails, teeth, ears and eyes regularly.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bostonterrier should be friendly, lively and intelligent, and many individuals actively seek human company and want to be involved in daily life. Even so, this does not guarantee that every dog will be comfortable with children, unfamiliar dogs or new environments.

Genetics, early experience, health and training all shape the individual dog. Ask the breeder how the parents behave in ordinary life: how they recover after something unexpected, greet people, cope with other dogs and settle at home. If possible, meet the dam and watch her in a normal situation, rather than only when the puppies are excited.

The breed can be both playful and focused. Reward-based training with clear breaks is usually more suitable than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Teach calm behaviour, comfortable handling around the eyes and paws, recall, and the ability to wait without becoming overexcited from an early age.

## Training & Exercise

A Bostonterrier needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no safe number of minutes that suits every dog. Combine walks with scent work, short training sessions, play and quiet recovery. A healthy dog with good respiratory function may enjoy a range of dog sports, while a dog that develops noisy or laboured breathing needs a veterinary assessment and adapted activity.

Judge exercise by how the dog breathes and recovers, not by how keen it is to carry on. Stop and move the dog to a cool place if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, if it slows down, struggles to recover or seems unusually hot. Bluish mucous membranes, weakness, collapse or marked breathing difficulty require emergency veterinary care.

Short-muzzled dogs are particularly sensitive to heat because panting is less effective at cooling them. Exercise during the cooler parts of the day, offer water and avoid strenuous activity in hot or humid weather. Excess weight places more strain on the airways and joints, so monitor body condition rather than relying only on the number on the scales.

## Health

The main health checks for a Bostonterrier concern respiratory function, eye health, patella status and early-onset juvenile cataract. Ask for actual examination results for both parents; an energetic impression or quiet breathing during a brief meeting is not a substitute for documentation.

BOAS is an umbrella term for breathing problems that can occur when a short muzzle and the soft tissues in the nose and throat restrict airflow. Snoring should therefore not automatically be dismissed as a harmless breed trait. Look out for breathing noise at rest, laboured inhalation, poor stamina, prolonged recovery, disturbed sleep, heat intolerance or fainting.

The RFG Scheme is a standardised veterinary assessment of respiratory function. The dog is assessed before and after three minutes of brisk movement and receives a grade from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected; grades 2 and 3 indicate clinical impairment. Results from dogs aged at least 24 months are registered centrally, while results from younger dogs are recorded as preliminary.

Since May 2026, RFG results for Bostonterriers can be registered centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club, but the assessment is not currently mandatory before breeding for this breed. This should not be confused with the Swedish Kennel Club's general breeding recommendation, which gives first preference to grade 0, or with the breed club's conditions for listing a litter through its puppy referral service.

The eyes are relatively large and exposed. Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, keeps one eye closed, rubs it with a paw, or develops a red, watery or cloudy eye; eye pain is treated as an emergency. Early-onset juvenile cataract is a recessively inherited disease affecting both eyes and can cause blindness early in life. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, carries one copy of the disease variant or has inherited it from both parents. Mating two carriers can produce genetically affected puppies and should therefore be avoided.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of position, also occurs in the breed. When a litter is to be included in its puppy referral service, Svenska Bostonterrierklubben asks for details of the parents' latest eye examination, patella results and DNA test or evidence of clear-by-parentage status for juvenile cataract. This is valuable information for a buyer, but it should not be described as a binding registration requirement for every litter.

## History & Origins

The Bostonterrier was developed in and around Boston, Massachusetts, during the latter part of the nineteenth century. Purposeful breeding took shape roughly between 1870 and 1890, but the earliest crosses are not fully documented. The breed can therefore be described as having been developed from the bulldog and terrier types of the time, but no exact mixture can be stated with certainty.

The American Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1893. Over time, it developed from heavier predecessors into the smaller, elegant companion described by today's breed standard. The Bostonterrier is now an internationally recognised breed with the United States as its country of origin.

## Living with the Breed

A Bostonterrier can live successfully in a flat or a house, but the size of the home does not decide whether daily life will work. The dog needs physical and mental activity every day, an undisturbed place to rest, and practice settling when nothing is happening. Barking and sensitivity to noise vary between individuals; if quiet living matters, ask how the parents behave at home.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Start with very short, calm separations and increase the time only while the dog can settle. For dogs kept in Sweden, the Swedish Board of Agriculture states that dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings.

With children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the breed's reputation as a family dog. Children should not lift the dog, pull its ears or approach it while it is eating or sleeping. Introductions to cats and other dogs should be calm and controlled. Previous experience and the individual dog's behaviour carry more weight than the breed name.

Before buying, ask the breeder to show:

- both parents' RFG results and their ages when assessed;
- the latest eye examination and patella results;
- registered DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract and how it informed the mating;
- how close relatives fare in terms of breathing, eyes, knees and everyday temperament;
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different surfaces, people and ordinary household sounds.

This provides a better basis for a decision than promises that the breed is always easy, quiet or problem-free.

Bostonterrier

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Bostonterrier is a small, sturdy, people‑focused companion with a square build and short, tuxedo‑patterned coat. Cheerful, affectionate, and adaptable, it enjoys both play and relaxing with its family. Grooming is simple, but its short nose and prominent eyes need extra health care.

Stray Kids är en uppfödare av rasen Bostonterrier med bas i Alsterbro i Sverige.

Stray Kids

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Rocky-Child’s

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Amqu's är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, stor med bas i Bara i Sverige.

Amqu's

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

## Quick Facts

The Miniature American Shepherd is a small, athletic herding dog and a distinct, internationally recognized breed—not simply an informal name for a small Australian Shepherd. Although the breed was developed from small Australian Shepherds in the United States, it now has its own breed standard and is registered separately.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; developed as a farm, herding and companion dog.
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattle Dogs.
- **Height at the withers:** males 35.5–46 cm and females 33–43.5 cm.
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no fixed range. A healthy weight depends on the dog's height, sex and build.
- **Coat:** a medium-length double coat that may be straight or wavy.
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for physical activity, mental work and recovery.

This is a compact dog, but not an easy shortcut to herding-dog traits in a smaller package. The breed is best suited to someone who wants to train, spend time outdoors and also teach the dog to settle. It can work for a first-time owner who has the time, patience and interest in reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone mainly looking for an uncomplicated dog with low demands for activity and everyday training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature American Shepherd should be well balanced, agile and strong without looking heavy or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than tall. There is a clear size difference across the permitted heights, which is why a single weight range is misleading. Assess body condition, proportions and muscle with a veterinarian rather than comparing every dog with one number for the whole breed.

The coat consists of weather-resistant outer hair and an undercoat whose amount can vary by season and climate. Regular thorough combing is often enough for routine care, but loose undercoat needs more attention during shedding. Bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. The coat should generally be left natural; extensive shaping is not part of normal grooming for the breed.

Accepted base colors are black, red, blue merle and red merle, with or without tan points and white. White may occur in defined areas but should not dominate the head or body. Eyes may be brown, blue, hazel or amber, and a dog may have eyes of different colors or more than one color in the same eye. An unusual eye color is a permitted variation in appearance, not evidence by itself of vision, health or temperament.

The tail may be long or naturally short, known as a natural bobtail, NBT. A short tail is therefore not automatically docked. Docking is prohibited in Sweden, and a Swedish buyer should distinguish a natural bobtail from a surgically shortened tail on an imported dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Miniature American Shepherd as intelligent, biddable, adaptable and loyal, with herding and guarding instincts. It is often alert to its surroundings and quick to react. This can produce excellent responsiveness in training, but also a dog that notices movement, sounds and changes its owner barely registers.

The breed may be reserved with strangers. Reserve means that the dog may wait and observe without seeking contact; it is not the same as being shy, fearful or threatening. Forced greetings rarely make a reserved dog more confident. Instead, give it space, let it observe and reward calm initiatives of its own.

Swedish BPH behavioral-assessment data shows above all that variation within the breed is considerable. Some dogs greet readily, others show little interest, and reactions to surprises, noise and uncertainty differ between individuals. BPH describes the dog's reactions on that day and does not issue a pass or fail. When choosing a puppy, the behavior, recovery and everyday function of the parents and close relatives are therefore more informative than a single label such as “typical temperament.”

The breed's close attention to its family should not be romanticized into a claim that every individual is automatically confident, sociable and easy-going. Ask the breeder how the adult dogs manage visitors, new environments, handling, sounds and quiet inactivity. Request concrete examples and consider any BPH results in context.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature American Shepherd needs an active life, but there is no fixed schedule that suits every individual. A good routine includes walks and free movement where safe, scent work or problem-solving, short training sessions and genuine rest. The dog's age, fitness, health and ability to recover should determine the workload.

Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework, obedience, search work, herding and trick training are examples of suitable activities. No particular sport is compulsory. What matters is that the dog uses both body and mind without every day escalating to a higher level of intensity. If the dog still struggles to settle after activity, clearer pauses and better-adjusted training may be the answer—not automatically more exercise.

Reward-based training with clear criteria suits a quick and responsive dog. Start early with engagement, recall, leash skills, handling and waiting calmly. Also train the skills that are easily forgotten: lying quietly while the family eats, disengaging from a task, watching people or dogs pass without intervening, and returning to calm after play.

In daily life, herding and guarding behaviors may appear as following movement, trying to control running or sounding the alarm when something happens. This does not mean that every dog chases children, herds cats or barks a great deal. Observe what triggers the individual dog and teach alternative behaviors before a pattern becomes a habit. Puppies need short, positive experiences and age-appropriate movement; they should not be exercised like fully grown dogs.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, occurs in the Miniature American Shepherd, but the Swedish population is young and evidence for reliable frequency estimates for several other conditions is limited. Insurance coding, small datasets and the low average age of the dogs have made older summaries difficult to interpret. A long list of possible diagnoses therefore says less than verified results from the puppy's parents and close relatives.

It is important to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration rules from the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Miniature American Shepherd has no special breed-specific health program marked as a registration condition in the Swedish Kennel Club's current registration rules. The Swedish Miniature American Shepherd Club does, however, recommend that before mating both parents have:

- an HD result of A or B and an ED result of 0
- a clear eye examination no more than 18 months old
- known prcd-PRA status, with a carrier bred only to a genetically clear dog
- known NAD status, using a clear-to-clear or clear-to-carrier combination.

Ask to see the actual result, examination date and how the parents' results are combined. The word “health tested” is not enough. A DNA test can answer only for the variant it targets and does not replace a clinical eye examination.

MDR1, also known as ABCB1, is a gene variant that can affect how the dog handles certain medicines. If the dog has been tested, keep the result and show it to the treating veterinarian. Medication choice and dosage should never be decided from general online breed advice.

Merle must not be bred to merle because the combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle allele and an increased risk of serious sight and hearing problems; such a mating conflicts with Swedish Kennel Club basic rules. A natural bobtail is associated with the NBT trait. The breed club urges caution with NBT-to-NBT combinations while the issue continues to be monitored, which should not be confused with the explicit prohibition of merle-to-merle matings.

## History & Origins

The Miniature American Shepherd was developed in California in the late 1960s by breeding small Australian Shepherds. The aim was a smaller, enduring herding dog that could work sheep and goats, among other livestock, while fitting into a mobile ranch and equestrian life. From 1980 the name Miniature Australian Shepherd was used in registration before the breed later received its current name.

The American breed club was formed in 1990, and the breed entered the American Kennel Club's development registry in 2011. Full American recognition followed in 2015, and the FCI recognized the breed in 2019. The first Swedish litter was born in 2006, while Swedish registration as Miniature American Shepherd began in 2017.

Sweden also has a controlled crossbreeding program in which Australian Shepherds may be used under Swedish Kennel Club registration rules and the offspring are registered as Miniature American Shepherds. This does not alter the dogs' status as members of the recognized breed; the program is a regulated breeding tool. For a buyer, it makes the pedigree and the breeder's aims especially relevant, because traits and size can vary even within the breed standard.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature American Shepherd can live well in either a house or an apartment. The size of the home matters less than how daily life works: the dog needs to get outside, use its senses, train and be able to rest without constantly monitoring the stairwell, windows or garden. A garden can be convenient but does not replace shared activity or environmental training.

With children, adult supervision, clear rules and a resting place where the dog is left undisturbed are essential. Running and loud noise can attract the attention of a herding dog that is sensitive to movement, so calm interactions and breaks before the dog becomes over-aroused matter more than assuming the breed is “good with children.” Children should never be responsible for reading or handling a dog under pressure.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction. Let meetings happen gradually and under control, give the cat escape routes and its own resources, and interrupt fixation or chasing early. The breed comes with no guarantee of compatibility, but its herding background does not make problems inevitable either.

Alone-time training should progress gradually when the dog feels safe, has been exercised and is ready to rest. Start with very short periods and watch how that particular dog responds; prolonged barking, pacing or an inability to eat and rest indicate that training has progressed too quickly. A closed crate may not be used as routine confinement or as a solution to separation problems in Swedish homes.

Before buying a puppy, check more than registration and color. Ask to see the parents' health results and dates, ask about MDR1 and other relevant DNA results, examine temperament and recovery in the family, and discuss how the breeder prioritizes working drive, noise reactions, reserve and the ability to settle. A responsible match is about the kind of daily life the dog was bred and raised for—not just finding the right appearance.

Miniature American Shepherd

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Compact, athletic herding dog bred in the U.S. as a smaller Australian Shepherd. Intelligent, devoted, and “velcro” with family, often reserved with strangers. Needs regular training, mental work, and exercise. Medium double coat in varied colors; generally healthy with 12–15 year lifespan.

En familj, utanför Eskilstuna med Dvärgschnauzer och Miniature American Shepherds, vi älskar hundar och lever ett härligt liv vid skogens kant, vår filosofi är mjuka metoder och positiv förstärkning, våra hundar är en del av vår familj och har en stor plats i såväl våra hjärtan som i vår soffa.

Wie Humelies

## Quick Facts

The American Bully is a modern American dog developed primarily as a companion. The United Kennel Club (UKC) recognised the breed in 2013, but the Swedish Kennel Club (SKK) does not recognise it, so an American Bully cannot be registered with the SKK. Always check which registry a breeder refers to and which documents actually belong to the dog.

Pocket, Standard, Classic and XL are not four separate breeds. They are size or type labels used by registries whose rules differ in some respects. The UKC groups them as Pocket, Standard/Classic and XL and defines them mainly by height at the withers and build, not by a set weight. The Classic has the same height as the Standard but a lighter frame and less overall body mass. An “XL” label therefore tells you less than the parents’ heights, builds and documented adult sizes.

The breed standard’s ideal is a confident, friendly and lively companion in a powerful body. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every dog. Sound function, temperament and manageability matter more than an extreme head, the widest possible chest or a high body weight.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Bully should be compact and heavily muscled while remaining active, agile and well coordinated. Under the UKC standard, the approximate height for Pocket dogs is 36 to under 43 centimetres for males and 33 to under 41 centimetres for females. Standard dogs are about 43–51 centimetres for males and 41–48 centimetres for females. XL dogs are over 51 and up to about 58 centimetres for males, and over 48 and up to about 56 centimetres for females. The Classic has the height of a Standard but a lighter build. Other registries, including the American Bully Kennel Club, divide the varieties and boundaries somewhat differently. Find out which registry a size label comes from.

The UKC does not specify a weight range that determines a dog’s size class. Two dogs of the same height can weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. Look at both parents and, if possible, mature relatives rather than relying on a promised adult weight.

The build must work in motion. The dog should be able to walk and trot without crossing its legs, having its chest obstruct the front legs, or carrying so much mass that movement becomes laboured. The UKC treats a muzzle so short that it interferes with normal breathing, a chest so wide that it interferes with movement, and severely bowed front legs as serious conformation faults. When assessing a dog, give more weight to free movement, open nostrils and unlaboured breathing than to an exaggerated appearance.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Brush as needed to remove loose hair. Check skin folds, paws, nails, ears and teeth as well; bathe the dog when dirty rather than to a fixed schedule.

Colour rules also depend on the registry. The UKC accepts many colours but disqualifies merle; other registries may have different rules. The American UKC standard permits both natural and cropped ears, but ear cropping is prohibited in Sweden unless medically necessary. Natural ears are therefore the normal Swedish choice.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the UKC ideal, the American Bully should be confident, gentle and friendly towards people, and aggression towards people is described as uncharacteristic. These words describe what the registry wants the breed to be. They cannot replace an assessment of the individual dog, its parents, upbringing and experiences.

Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe how she reacts to visitors, handling and everyday sounds. Ask how both parents respond after being startled: can they settle and seek support, or do stress and fear persist? An adult should be redirectable and manageable without its owner having to rely on physical strength.

An American Bully can live well in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee. A responsible adult must always be present with young children and the dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place where children do not follow. An adult should hold the lead if the dog is stronger than the child. Also assess how the dog responds when someone approaches food, toys or a sleeping place, and seek help early if the behaviour causes concern.

The same individual assessment applies to other animals. Previous experience, prey interest, arousal and social skills vary. Introduce dogs on neutral ground with plenty of distance and slack leads. A dog and cat need barriers, escape routes and brief, controlled meetings. Do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour has remained stable over time.

## Training & Exercise

The American Bully needs daily physical activity, mental stimulation and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of exercise hours that suits every dog. Age, size variety, body condition, joints, breathing, weather and recovery should determine how walks and other exertion are managed.

Prioritise everyday skills that make a strong dog easy to live with: walking on a loose lead, recall, attention around distractions, waiting at doors, releasing objects, accepting examination and settling in a designated place. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Combine calm walks with scent work, problem-solving and short training sessions. Build more active exercise gradually. Stop and allow the dog to recover if its gait becomes heavy, breathing remains laboured after a break, or it seeks shade and cannot settle.

Heat requires extra care with a heavy or short-muzzled individual. Exercise at cooler times, carry water and adjust the intensity to the dog’s breathing. Noisy breathing at rest, pronounced heat intolerance or collapse are not normal breed traits to push through; they are reasons to have the dog assessed by a veterinarian.

## Health

The American Bully has no Swedish SKK health programme that can serve as a ready-made buying checklist. A buyer must therefore review each breeding dog’s results and ask how the breeder selected tests based on the dogs’ build, family and previous offspring. The word “health-tested” is not enough. Ask for documents showing the dog’s identity, examination date, method, result and issuing organisation, and verify that they refer to the correct dog.

Ask specifically for actual hip and elbow results when available. In 2024, the British Veterinary Association published statistics containing 101 hip results and 88 elbow results for American Bullies. This confirms that officially assessed results are available to inspect. However, the figures describe a limited group of examined dogs in a British scheme; they do not show how common a problem is across the entire population and they are not a Swedish SKK requirement. Interpret each parent’s result within the correct scoring scheme and ask whether the same problem recurs in close relatives.

Assess function as well as documents. A breeding dog should breathe quietly and freely at rest and after moderate activity, have open nostrils, regulate its body temperature and move without lameness or mechanical restriction. A very short muzzle, disproportionate head, excessive mass, extreme chest width or leg alignment that disrupts gait are warning signs. Do not accept snoring or laboured breathing while awake as “typical of the breed”.

Ask about veterinary investigations, movement or breathing problems, and early deaths among parents, siblings and previous litters. Family history and the individual dog’s examination findings should guide any additional checks. Swedish breeding rules require parent dogs to be in good physical and mental health and prohibit a mating that is expected to increase the risk of suffering or inherited impairment.

## History & Origins

The American Bully was developed in the United States from American bull-and-terrier dogs. The UKC describes it as a development of the American Pit Bull Terrier with lesser influence from the American Bulldog, English Bulldog and Olde English Bulldogge. The result was intended to be a distinct, heavier companion rather than a copy of any single ancestral type. The UKC recognised the American Bully on 15 July 2013.

This history helps explain why terms such as “pit bull”, “bully” and “bull terrier” are sometimes mixed in everyday speech, but they are not interchangeable breed names. Ask which registry and standard sit behind a pedigree or size label. The UKC, ABKC and other registries may have different divisions, colour rules and documentation requirements.

The distinction is particularly important in Sweden: the American Bully is not recognised by the SKK and cannot be registered with it. A certificate from another registry is therefore not an SKK certificate and does not in itself prove good health or temperament. Verify the issuer and the dog’s identity.

## Living with the Breed

The American Bully is best suited to an owner who can handle a strong dog calmly, train regularly and choose function over an extreme appearance. Living in a flat is not automatically a barrier, but floor space, stairs or a lift, access to a toileting area, neighbour noise and the ability to go outside frequently must suit the dog’s size. A very large individual can be impractical in a confined home even if calm indoors.

Time alone must be trained gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog is secure and increase them only when it can rest without stress. A puppy cannot be left alone on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan around the individual’s behaviour and need to go outside instead of assuming that the breed can manage a set number of hours.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live, check the mother’s identity in the Swedish Board of Agriculture’s central dog register, and ask to see originals or verifiable copies of health results. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary certificate no more than seven days old at that time. The microchip number, purchase documents and other records must match. Cropped ears on a dog said to be Swedish-born are a clear reason to pause and verify its origin and import history.

Sweden does not ban individual dog breeds, but the owner is always responsible for control and for preventing the dog from causing harm or serious nuisance. Rules must be checked again before travel, relocation or transit. Other countries may have special rules for bull-type dogs, and some legal definitions rely on physical type and height rather than the name in a registry.

The best buying decision therefore rests on more than the American Bully label. Choose a dog that breathes freely, moves without restriction, recovers well, has manageable parents and can be linked to clear health and origin records. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, head size or a promised weight class.

American Bully

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The American Bully is a compact, muscular companion dog from the U.S., derived from pit bull–type breeds and bred for a stable, friendly temperament. Available in several sizes, it has a blocky head, short low-care coat, and thrives on close family contact, training, and socialisation.

Ziggy är en uppfödare av rasen American bully med bas i Nyköping i Sverige.

Ziggy

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Wellgoer är en uppfödare av rasen Labrador retriever med bas i Jämjö i Sverige. Uppfödningen omfattar labrador retriever av jakttyp, även kallad jaktlabrador.

Wellgoer

Conor's är en uppfödare av rasen Irish softcoated wheaten terrier med bas i Enhörna i Sverige. Uppfödningen har arbetat med rasen sedan 2004.

Conor's

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Schärott är en uppfödare av rasen Tysk spets – mittelspitz med bas i Forshaga i Sverige. Uppfödningen av tysk spets – mittelspitz inleddes 2020.

Dog breeders

For buyers

Breeders

Cats

Dogs

Get a Pet