## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Me La Diva's

## Quick Facts

- The Bedlington Terrier is a British terrier with a pronounced prey drive behind its soft, lamb-like appearance.
- The breed stands around 41 cm and normally weighs 8–10 kg; bitches may be slightly shorter and dogs slightly taller.
- It is often lively outdoors and calm at home, but needs both daily exercise and activities that engage its mind.
- The coat sheds very little, but needs regular combing and clipping roughly every 6–8 weeks.
- Low shedding does not make the breed allergy-free.
- Copper toxicosis is the most important breed-specific health issue to check before buying a puppy.
- The breed can live in a flat or a house, provided it gets enough activity, gradual training for time alone and safe walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bedlington Terrier is an agile, muscular dog with an outline unlike that of most other terriers. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, the loin is naturally arched and the underline distinctly tucked up. The head is pear- or wedge-shaped, with no defined stop, while the pale silky topknot accentuates the characteristic lamb-like look. Beneath that elegant exterior is a dog built for speed: the breed standard says it should be capable of galloping fast.

The height at the withers is around 41 cm and the weight 8–10 kg. A slight variation downwards for bitches and upwards for dogs is permitted. The colours are blue, liver or sandy, with or without tan markings. The coat should be thick, stand away from the skin and have a marked tendency to twist, particularly on the head and face. It must not feel harsh.

The coat leaves very little hair behind, but it is not low-maintenance. As a practical guide, it should be brushed and combed at least once a week and clipped roughly every 6–8 weeks. Mats may require more frequent attention, especially after woodland walks and in areas where the coat is exposed to friction. The traditional breed trim takes skill, so ask the breeder about a practical pet trim and for details of a groomer who knows the Bedlington Terrier.

The ears need close attention because dense hair growth and narrow ear canals have been noted within the breed. Check regularly for redness, unpleasant odour, itching or recurring trouble, and contact a vet if symptoms appear. Clipping and regular inspection make problems easier to spot, but do not replace a veterinary assessment.

Although the Bedlington Terrier sheds little, this does not make it hypoallergenic. Dog allergens come from sources including skin and saliva, and the amount varies between individuals. Anyone with a dog allergy therefore needs to assess the particular dog and their own reaction rather than relying on coat type alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bedlington Terrier combines a friendly, affectionate manner with a terrier’s courage and interest in pursuing prey. The breed ideal is a lively, alert and intelligent companion that is gentle when at rest but ready to act when something happens. This captures the breed’s range well: the same dog may lie quietly on the sofa and moments later want to sprint after something that moves.

Many individuals enjoy close contact with their family and settle well indoors once their needs have been met. Some can be a little reserved with strangers. Shyness and nervousness, however, are not part of the breed ideal. A puppy’s experiences, the parents’ temperament and the owner’s daily routine all influence how the adult dog develops, so meet the dam and, if possible, other relatives of the puppy.

Swedish behavioural assessments and owner surveys give a nuanced picture of how the breed behaves around other dogs. A small group assessed through BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment, showed low aggression overall, while an owner survey also mentioned individuals that struggled during dog encounters, particularly some males. The conclusion is not that the breed is aggressive or invariably easy, but that the individual dog and the way introductions are handled matter greatly. Choose calm encounters, reward attention to the handler and do not let cramped or chaotic situations shape socialisation.

The strong prey drive is documented in the breed standard and should be taken seriously. A Bedlington Terrier may react very quickly to wildlife, cats or other small animals. Some individuals can live happily with a familiar cat, but the breed name alone offers no guarantee. Always plan for safe management, and separate the dog from small pets whenever you cannot supervise them together.

## Training & Exercise

The Bedlington Terrier needs daily exercise, but a fixed number of minutes will not suit every individual. A good routine includes walks, opportunities to stretch out safely and a task that demands concentration. Age, health, fitness and what the dog did the previous day all affect what is appropriate. A contented dog should be able to settle at home, rather than simply becoming more highly aroused as walks grow longer.

The breed can enjoy agility, tracking, blood tracking, rally obedience or ordinary everyday training. The exact activity matters less than giving the dog a chance to use body and mind with its owner. Search games, balance work, short obedience sessions and controlled play provide variety without turning every day into a major training project.

Use rewards, clear criteria and short sessions. The Bedlington Terrier is intelligent and can learn quickly, but a terrier’s independence makes meaningless repetition less appealing. Reward the behaviour you want in everyday life: voluntarily checking in, waiting calmly at a door, walking with you on the lead and breaking off a chase during play. Harsh corrections risk damaging cooperation and are not needed to set clear boundaries.

Recall training should begin early, but a strong prey drive can override even a well-learned cue. Use a long line wherever the surroundings are not secure, and only allow the dog off lead where a failed recall cannot have serious consequences. The aim is not to prove that the dog always obeys; it is to build a long history of successful repetitions while keeping a line or secure enclosure as backup.

## Health

Copper toxicosis is the most important known breed-specific disease in the Bedlington Terrier. In the COMMD1-related form, an inherited change can cause copper to build up in the liver. Inheritance is autosomal recessive, which means that a dog must inherit the relevant variant from both parents to be genetically affected.

A COMMD1 test can return a result of clear, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not ill from the tested variant but can pass it on. A genetically affected dog has two copies and is at risk of developing the disease during its lifetime. A clear result applies to the deletion examined by the test; it does not rule out every other possible cause of liver disease or copper toxicosis.

The Scandinavian Bedlington Club requires the parent dogs to have been DNA tested through the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences before a litter can be listed by the club’s puppy referral service. The club also requires an eye examination for that service. These conditions are not the same as a special registration requirement imposed by the Swedish Kennel Club: its registration rules for 2026 contain no Bedlington-specific requirement for DNA testing or eye screening. The distinction matters when you assess what a breeder has actually done.

Ask to see documents rather than simply accepting that the dogs have been “tested”:

- identifiable COMMD1 results for both parents and an explanation of what the combination means,
- current eye examination results and how any findings influenced the breeding decision,
- information about recurring liver, eye, skin or ear problems among close relatives,
- the breeder’s plan for following the puppies’ health after they leave.

Skin and ears are among the matters monitored by the Swedish breed club. Older surveys have reported itching, ear infections, heavy hair growth in the ears and narrow ear canals, but a survey does not predict the risk for every puppy. Treat the information as a reason to ask questions and stay observant, not as a diagnosis. Recurring itching, head shaking, redness or weeping eyes should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Bedlington Terrier was developed in Northumberland in northern England and is particularly associated with the mining town of Bedlington. It was previously known as the Rothbury Terrier. The early dogs needed to be fast, strong and versatile, and were used to hunt rabbits as well as other small quarry and vermin.

A breed association was formed in 1877, after the standard had begun to take shape in the later part of the 1800s. The journey from local working terrier to today’s more elegant show dog and companion is well documented, but accounts of precisely which other breeds contributed to its development are less certain. Its hunting background and working-terrier character are therefore a more reliable legacy than any single disputed cross.

The Bedlington Terrier reached Sweden in the early 1900s. Today it is kept there mainly as a companion and show dog, although its speed, courage and aptitude for dog sports still reflect its origins.

## Living with the Breed

A Bedlington Terrier can live in a flat as well as a house. The size of the home matters less than the daily routine: the dog needs to go out, use its mind and have somewhere safe to run. A garden does not replace walks, and fencing must be reliable if wildlife or cats pass nearby.

With children, the same ground rules apply as with any other dog. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left alone. The Bedlington Terrier’s friendly breed ideal is not a guarantee against misunderstandings, and children must not climb on, disturb or try to pick up the dog.

Time alone must be introduced gradually after the puppy feels secure in its new home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in how readily they settle without company. Build the training in small steps and organise daily life around the dog in front of you, not around a fixed number claimed for the breed.

Budget time and money for regular grooming. Anyone who does not want to learn a practical pet trim will need to find a groomer experienced with the breed and book visits roughly every 6–8 weeks. Weekly combing, ear checks and calm handling practice should also become part of the routine from puppyhood.

The breed best suits someone who wants a close companion but also respects a terrier’s prey drive and independence. Before buying, meet adult dogs, examine the COMMD1 and eye results, ask how the coat is maintained and make a concrete plan for exercise, time alone and any small pets in the home. That makes it much easier to decide whether the soft exterior and decisive character fit the same household.

Bedlington Terrier

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Association Canine Allemande (VDH - German Kennel Club)

Bedlington Terriers are small, lamb-like yet athletic terriers with a lean, arched body and distinctive curly, low-shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Originally bred for hunting, they are fast, curious, sensitive, devoted family dogs with strong prey drive and benefit from kind training and daily exercise.

Kazzaie

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Lyckolappen

Parson Russell Terrier

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Parson Russell Terriers are medium‑small, long‑legged, athletic fox‑hunting terriers with smooth or broken white coats. Energetic, intelligent, bold, and affectionate, they need plenty of exercise, consistent training, mental stimulation, and clear boundaries in an active home.

Själhundars

Smooth Fox Terrier

Kennel Club (UK)

Deutscher Foxterrier-Verband e.V. (Germany)

The Smooth Fox Terrier is a small, athletic, people‑oriented terrier with a short, easy‑care coat. Energetic, intelligent and independent, it needs plenty of exercise, training and mental stimulation. Affectionate yet intense, especially with small animals, it suits active, consistent owners.

Killkenny's

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Ida Andrea Winther

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

I vår kennel står hundarnas välmående, trygghet och framtid alltid i centrum. Våra hundar och valpar växer upp i hemmiljö och är en naturlig del av familjens vardag, där de får mycket kärlek, trygghet och möjlighet att utvecklas i lugn och ro.

Pomsik Rakaaig

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Grönuddens

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a British cattle-herding and companion breed. It is low to the ground but much more solidly built, powerful and work-focused than its short legs might suggest. It is best suited to someone who wants to train, walk and solve problems with their dog every day.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives 30 cm at the withers as the ideal height. It does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be in proportion to the dog’s size and overall balance.
- **Build:** Long and strong, with short legs, good ground clearance and a long, fox-like tail.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is alert, active, intelligent and steady, neither shy nor aggressive.
- **Activity:** Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation are essential. A fixed number of exercise minutes will not suit every individual.
- **Coat:** A short to medium-length, weather-resistant double coat with an undercoat. Expect shedding and regular brushing.
- **Important when buying a puppy:** Ask to see the parents’ actual hip dysplasia results, and ask about eye examinations, rcd3-PRA and any merle colouring.

The Cardigan and the Welsh Corgi Pembroke are two separate breeds. Do not choose a dog solely because it is called a ‘corgi’ or resembles a short-legged dog in a photograph. Compare the breeds’ everyday needs, meet adult dogs and form your own impression of the breeder’s dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan should be sturdy, mobile and capable of endurance: low-set, but not so low that the body lacks ground clearance. The body is fairly long and strong, with substantial bone and large, erect ears that are slightly rounded at the tips. The moderately long tail reaches to, or nearly to, the ground. It may lift when the dog is moving but should not curl over the back. This long, fox-like tail is a clear feature of the Cardigan standard.

Accepted colours are blue merle, brindle, red, sable, tricolour with brindle points and tricolour with red points. Typical white markings are permitted, but white should not predominate on the body or head and should not surround the eyes. Under the standard, blue or blue-flecked eyes are permitted only in blue merles.

The coat consists of a coarse, preferably straight outer coat and a protective undercoat. Brush through the entire coat regularly and more often when a large amount of undercoat is coming loose. Check that loose undercoat is not becoming packed behind the ears, on the backs of the thighs or around the tail. The timing and amount of shedding vary between dogs; plan for more loose hair at certain times rather than relying on a fixed calendar. Gently accustom the puppy to brushing, nail trimming and other handling from the outset.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Welsh Corgi Cardigan is alert, active, intelligent and steady. That is a useful starting point, but it does not guarantee how every dog will develop. Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results show variation within the breed, while upbringing, experience and individuality affect qualities such as sociability, fearfulness, interest in play and the ability to settle.

Its background as a farm and cattle dog may show in close attention to movement, a desire to monitor its surroundings and a tendency to bark. Some young dogs may also try to control running people or animals and nip towards their legs. These are possible behaviours to anticipate and address through training, not something every Cardigan will do. Interrupt calmly, reward an alternative behaviour and offer structured activities in which the dog can use its nose, body and mind.

Ask the breeder how the parents behave with visitors, in unfamiliar environments and after activity. Meet them where possible. A dog that becomes excited quickly but struggles to settle can be demanding even if it learns readily. In many homes, the ability to switch between activity and rest is at least as important as enthusiasm for training.

## Training & Exercise

A Cardigan needs physical activity and opportunities to think every day, but there is no credible rule in minutes that suits them all. Age, health, fitness and personality determine the right amount. A sound routine combines walks in varied environments with scent work, short training sessions, play and time to recover.

The breed often enjoys tasks that involve working with its owner and making small choices. Tracking, search games, everyday obedience, rally obedience and controlled body-awareness exercises are examples; a dog does not have to herd to lead a fulfilling life. Increase difficulty and physical demands gradually, particularly in a growing dog, and seek advice from a vet or veterinary physiotherapist if the dog is in pain, lame or moving abnormally. Its conformation is not, in itself, a reason to ban all stairs or jumping, but the environment and activity must suit the individual dog.

Use positive, reward-based training in clear stages. Prioritise engagement, recall, walking with you and calm behaviour around bicycles, running children and other movement that may attract the dog’s attention. If the dog barks at the door or window, help it away from the situation before barking becomes a habit, then reward the behaviour you want. Harsh corrections or attempts to ‘dominate’ the dog are unnecessary and may undermine its sense of security.

## Health

The current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Cardigan as generally healthy. In the eye examination results reviewed for the strategy, no single eye disease stood out. This does not mean that every dog is healthy or that health screening is unimportant. For a puppy buyer, documented results are more valuable than general assurances that a line is ‘problem-free’.

### Hips and musculoskeletal health

Since 2025, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. **A known status means that the result is officially recorded; it does not automatically mean that the hips are free from dysplasia.** Ask for the actual grades and invite the breeder to explain the choice of pairing.

The breed club is also monitoring short ulna, in which the ulna stops growing too early and the foreleg may become increasingly bowed. If a growing dog develops a clear change in leg alignment, an outward-turning paw or lameness, it should be assessed promptly by a vet with orthopaedic experience. Treatment may need to start while the dog is still growing, so do not simply wait to see what happens.

### Eyes, rcd3-PRA and merle

Rcd3-PRA is an early-onset, autosomal recessive form of PRA found in the breed. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected. A carrier will not itself develop this particular form of PRA, but can pass the variant on. The test answers only the question of this genetic variant. An eye examination can instead detect clinical eye changes but cannot identify unaffected carriers, so the two forms of screening do not replace each other.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but the merle variant must not be inherited from both parents because the offspring would then be at risk of serious hearing and eye defects. When buying a merle puppy, the breeder should be able to explain the parents’ colours and how the mating complies with Swedish Kennel Club rules.

Keep the dog in an appropriate body condition as well. A defined waist should be visible behind the ribs, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Monitor changes over time instead of pursuing a single standard weight.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan developed in Wales as a farm and cattle dog. It worked closely with the people on the farm and helped to move and manage cattle. This historical function explains the combination of low height, mobility, endurance and close attention to its surroundings.

The breed’s exact age and the dogs from which it descends have not been conclusively established. Older accounts link it to very early Welsh dogs, Celts or Vikings, but these theories should not be treated as a certain lineage. The Swedish Kennel Club states that Cardigans and Pembrokes were interbred until 1934, when they were separated and recognised as two distinct breeds. The first Welsh Corgi Cardigan registered in Sweden arrived in 1963.

The FCI now classifies the breed as a cattle-herding and companion dog. Many live solely as family companions, but their active, work-focused heritage remains relevant when deciding whether everyday life with the breed will be a good fit.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan can live in a flat, but its low height does not automatically make it easy to keep in a small home. It needs daily activity, opportunities to settle and training around sounds in communal hallways and outside windows. A house and garden are no substitute for walks, shared activities and new environments.

Being left alone is not a fixed breed trait. Start with very short periods once the dog feels secure and increase the time gradually; take a step back if it shows signs of distress. Plan around the individual and do not expect a young puppy to cope with being left alone.

The breed can live happily in a family with children, but no breed is automatically safe with children. An adult should always be present when a dog and young children interact, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Teach both children and dog calm boundaries, particularly when play and running may prompt the dog to follow or control movement.

The same individual approach applies to other dogs and cats. Previous experience and a controlled introduction matter more than the breed name. When introducing a cat, provide it with a dog-free retreat, keep meetings calm and prevent chasing from the very beginning.

Before buying, it is sensible to check:

- the parents’ official hip grades, not merely that they have been X-rayed;
- the date and result of eye examinations, as well as rcd3-PRA status;
- how any merle pairing was planned;
- how close relatives respond to sounds, people and dogs, and how well they settle after activity;
- whether you want a daily life that includes shedding, training and daily activity throughout the dog’s lifetime.

This is not the right breed for someone choosing solely for its compact size. A Cardigan is an active, intelligent cattle dog on short legs and needs an owner with both the time and interest to provide a well-planned daily routine.

Welsh Corgi Cardigan

Welsh Corgi League (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a sturdy, long-backed herding dog with a foxlike head and long tail. Energetic and agile despite short legs, it is loyal, watchful and often reserved with strangers. It has a weather-resistant double coat in many colours and needs regular exercise and grooming.

Jenny Ström

## Quick Facts

- The English Toy Terrier is a small British companion dog with a distinct terrier character.
- The breed standard specifies an **ideal height of 25–30 cm** and an **ideal weight of 2.7–3.6 kg**. These figures describe the ideal, not every healthy adult dog.
- The coat is short, close, smooth and glossy. The colour is black with clearly defined tan markings.
- The breed is active, alert and often quick to raise the alarm, but sociability, tendency to bark and stress tolerance vary between individuals and bloodlines.
- The fine coat offers little protection from the cold. A well-fitting coat may be needed on cold Scandinavian days.
- Small rodents may trigger the instinct to chase. Children and larger dogs need calm supervision around the dog to reduce the risk of injury.
- Give greater weight to documented health, temperament and pedigree diversity than to a long list of unspecified genetic tests.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Toy Terrier should be elegant, compact and well balanced, with clean lines but no suggestion of frailty. The head and legs should be in proportion to the body, and movement should be free, even and precise. The thin, high-set ears have a distinctive candle-flame shape and should be fully erect from nine months of age.

The breed standard expressly describes 25–30 cm and 2.7–3.6 kg as ideal measurements. They are neither a general normal range nor the only measure of a sound dog. Also consider body condition, balance, movement and how the dog functions in everyday life. A dog outside the ideal weight is not automatically overweight or underweight.

The only accepted colour is black with tan markings on defined parts of the head, chest, legs and underside. Black and tan should be clearly separated. The coat should be short, close, smooth and glossy. It usually needs little work: wipe away dirt and use a soft brush or cloth when required. At the same time, check the skin, paws, nails, ears, eyes and mouth.

The short coat has no warm undercoat. Adjust time outdoors to the weather, the level of activity and the individual dog. A coat can be sensible in cold weather, but the dog still needs exercise and daily time outside. Rinse and dry the paws after contact with road salt, and introduce calm nail care and tooth brushing from an early age.

## Temperament & Personality

The English Toy Terrier is normally an alert and active companion, but breed descriptions cannot replace an assessment of the individual dog. The standard calls for an alert temperament without undue nervousness. Swedish breed documents describe many dogs as curious, affectionate and keen to be involved, but they also report considerable variation in owners' experiences.

The breed can be reserved with strangers, and some individuals are quick to bark when someone comes to the door. This does not mean that every English Toy Terrier is aloof or noisy. A prospective owner should meet the dam and, where possible, the sire or other adult relatives. Watch how they respond to unfamiliar people, sounds and gentle handling, and how quickly they recover after something unexpected.

The Swedish BPH behavioural assessment data do not provide a reliable profile of the breed. The 2022 breed-specific breeding strategy included only 21 BPH starts, and the published breed average was based on just 11 Swedish-born dogs. Results for this small group indicated uncertainty and lower confidence around unfamiliar people, but the sample is too small to describe all dogs. Ask about temperament across several generations and avoid clearly timid, nervous or easily stressed parents.

The breed's history as a rat catcher appears in some dogs as an interest in small, fast-moving animals. Mice, hamsters and guinea pigs should therefore be kept securely apart. Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction; the breed name is no guarantee. Play with much larger dogs needs to be controlled, as a small, fine-boned dog can be injured even when both dogs are friendly.

## Training & Exercise

The English Toy Terrier needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, weather, pace and what the dog is actually doing matter more than a generic time target. Combine daily walks and longer outings with scent work, play, simple searches, tricks and quiet downtime. An adult can often manage more activity than its size suggests, while a puppy needs shorter sessions, free movement and plenty of rest.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's quick and attentive nature. Keep sessions short and clear. Give particular attention to engagement, recall, walking on a loose lead and turning away from moving distractions. Use an enclosed area or a long line until recall works even when the surroundings are tempting.

To prevent persistent barking at the door, teach the dog to go to a designated place away from the hall. Reward it for settling there, and ask visitors to wait before interacting until the dog is calm. The aim is not total silence, but a clear alternative to continued alarm barking.

Gently accustom the puppy from an early age to having its teeth and ears examined, its legs and paws touched and its body lifted safely. Training should be voluntary, positive and broken into small steps. This makes routine care, veterinary visits and being examined on a table at dog shows easier.

## Health

For the English Toy Terrier, it is important to distinguish between recommended health checks, tests that are relevant only to certain pedigrees and binding registration requirements. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends eye testing and checks of the patellae and heart. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, however, specify no mandatory breed-specific health test for the English Toy Terrier. A check can still be valuable even when it is not compulsory.

The Swedish health evidence is limited. The breeding strategy reports heart murmurs in a small survey and only modest numbers of dogs examined for eye and patellar conditions. These figures justify questions and checks, but they cannot establish how common a condition is across the breed. Ask to see dated results for both parents and enquire about diagnoses in siblings, parents and previous offspring.

The Swedish breeding strategy mentions three DNA tests for breeding dogs with American or Canadian dogs in their pedigrees: juvenile dilated cardiomyopathy (JDCM), xanthinuria and von Willebrand disease type 1. The current British health standard recommends JDCM, xanthinuria type II and eye testing for the breed, but does not list vWD1. This is a good reason to check the pedigree and the relevant national guidance before ordering a broad test panel without a clear purpose.

JDCM is a serious heart condition that can appear early in life. Xanthinuria type II can cause xanthine crystals in the urinary tract and kidney damage. Both are described as autosomal recessive: a dog with one altered copy is a carrier and is not expected to develop the condition, while two altered copies mean the dog is at risk of disease. A carrier need not automatically be excluded from breeding; the mating must be planned so that puppies do not inherit two altered copies, while genetic diversity is protected.

Before buying a puppy, ask for clear answers to the following questions:

- Which eye, patellar and heart checks have been carried out, when were they done and what were the results?
- Are there American or Canadian dogs in the pedigree, and which DNA tests are therefore relevant?
- What is known about the health and temperament of close relatives, not only the parents?
- How does the breeder avoid close matings and the overuse of individual breeding dogs?

## History & Origins

The English Toy Terrier is a British toy breed descended from the Black and Tan Terrier. During nineteenth-century urbanisation, small terriers were used to control rats, and bloody rat-killing contests also took place in public houses. This history helps to explain the breed's terrier character, but should not be romanticised.

In Britain, the breed was known by several names, including Miniature Black and Tan Terrier and Black and Tan Toy Terrier. The Kennel Club changed the name to English Toy Terrier (Black and Tan) in 1960. The first documented import to Sweden arrived from the United States in 1958.

North American Toy Manchester Terriers have since been used to broaden the small gene pool and may appear in Swedish and other Nordic pedigrees. That does not make the two breed standards identical. The Swedish breeding strategy notes differences including head shape and topline. For a prospective owner, the pedigree helps explain both the dog's background and which DNA tests may be relevant.

## Living with the Breed

The English Toy Terrier can do well in a flat if it gets outdoors, uses both body and mind, and learns to settle despite sounds in the building. The size of the home is no substitute for walks, and a garden does not replace daily activity either. If sound travels easily, begin early with calm behaviour around the door, lift and communal hallway.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can cope with. Start with very short periods when the dog is secure and settled, increase the time slowly and take a step back if it shows distress. Arrange help during working days rather than assuming that a small dog can be left for long periods.

The breed can live with children, but an adult should always be present with young children. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children should not lift, carry or chase it. The same caution applies to boisterous play with larger dogs. The English Toy Terrier is fine-boned but not an ornament: it needs safe physical activity while the family prevents falls, crushing injuries and rough handling.

The breed is best suited to someone who values a small but active dog, can provide daily company and training, and is prepared to judge the individual rather than rely on stereotypes. A sound decision is based on meeting adult relatives, checking health records and having a routine that still works in cold weather or when the dog cannot come along.

English Toy Terrier

English Toy Terrier Club (UK)

Small, elegant black-and-tan toy terrier with a fine but athletic build and low‑maintenance short coat. Loyal and people-focused, often bonding closely with one person. Lively, intelligent and sensitive, needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and protection from temperature extremes.

Charmer Wins

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Swedish Kennel Club

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Anna Kern

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Kjempebulls

Anne-Mette Nielsen

Belgian Shepherd Tervuren

Belgian Shepherd Dog Association of Great Britain

Société Royale Saint-Hubert (Belgium)

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Belgian Shepherd Tervuren is an intelligent, medium‑large herding dog with a rich long coat and alert, elegant build. Loyal and people‑oriented, it needs daily physical and mental exercise, regular brushing, and kind, consistent training to thrive as an active family companion.

Glimbi's

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Lena Fahlström

Kleine Münsterländer

Verband für Kleine Münsterländer e.V.

Svenska Münsterländerklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Münsterländer Klub (Denmark)

The Kleine Münsterländer is a medium, brown‑and‑white versatile gundog from Germany, combining elegant, easy‑care feathered coat with strong working ability. People‑oriented, sensitive and intelligent, it needs regular training, mental challenge and active outdoor life but relaxes calmly at home.

Frank Alvegg

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Annelie Isobell Toft Søndergaard

Åshild Klafstad

## Quick Facts

- The West Highland White Terrier, often called a Westie, is a small but sturdy terrier from the Scottish Highlands.
- The breed stands about 28 centimetres at the withers and should combine strength, agility and considerable confidence in a small frame.
- The white double coat should be hand-stripped, not clipped. Allow for professional grooming about five or six times a year and a thorough comb-through every week.
- A Westie is typically alert, cheerful, courageous and friendly, although the terrier's independence and hunting background are often evident in daily life.
- Skin disease and itching are the breed's main documented health concern. Ask about skin and ear health in the family rather than relying on a generic panel of tests.
- Many Westies live for 12–15 years, but lifespan varies with the individual, health and living conditions.

## Appearance & Coat

The West Highland White Terrier is small, compact and much sturdier than its neat white outline might suggest. The breed standard describes a strongly built dog with a deep chest, level back, muscular legs and free movement. It stands about 28 centimetres at the withers. Dark eyes, small upright ears and a straight, jaunty tail create the characteristically alert expression.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat should be straight, harsh and about five centimetres long, while the undercoat should be short, soft and close. The colour is white. This texture is not merely a matter of appearance: a correctly maintained harsh coat repels a good deal of dirt and sheds relatively little hair around the home.

To retain that harsh texture, a Westie's mature outer coat should be removed by hand-stripping. The Swedish Kennel Club advises against clipping because it changes the coat quality. A knowledgeable groomer is normally needed five or six times a year. Between visits, comb the coat thoroughly once a week, paying particular attention beneath the abdomen and in the armpits and groin, where tangles form readily. Check the skin, ears, teeth, paws and nails at the same time. A well-maintained harsh coat does not need frequent bathing; when a bath is necessary, rinse a mild dog shampoo out thoroughly.

Low shedding does not make the breed allergy-safe. Dog allergens are present in skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, among other sources, and levels can differ greatly between two dogs of the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a Westie on the strength of claims about a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Westie is alert, outgoing, friendly and self-assured. It is a sociable little dog, but not one that automatically waits for instructions in every situation. Its background as a working terrier favoured initiative, stamina and courage. In a modern home, this may appear as intense curiosity, barking when something is heard or an immediate interest in movement.

A West Highland White Terrier can live happily in a family with children when the adults take responsibility for every interaction. A small child and a dog should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a private resting place where it will not be disturbed. A sturdy build does not mean the dog should tolerate being carried, restrained or disturbed while eating or sleeping.

How a Westie gets on with other dogs and cats depends more on the individual, experience and introductions than on a simple rule about the breed. Arrange calm meetings, give both animals plenty of space and stop before play becomes too intense. Small pets require greater caution. The breed was developed to pursue small quarry, so a cage or a history of peaceful contact is no guarantee once predatory behaviour is aroused.

Treat the breed description as an ideal, not a promise about every puppy. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, dog encounters, handling and unfamiliar environments, and whether they settle indoors. Those answers are more useful than labels such as “stubborn”, “good with children” or “easy-going”.

## Training & Exercise

The West Highland White Terrier needs physical activity, scent work and interaction every day, but no fixed time allowance suits every dog. A healthy adult can have a fulfilling routine built around varied walks, time to investigate smells, search games, play and short training sessions. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, health and weather. An appropriately active dog maintains a healthy body condition, moves without stiffness and can settle at home.

Reward-based training works for both everyday skills and challenges such as barking or unreliable recall. Make the right choice easy: create distance from a distraction, reward engagement and teach a specific alternative such as going to a bed or turning back towards you. Harsh corrections do not address the reason for a behaviour and can damage both welfare and cooperation.

Recall should be developed progressively, moving from simple settings to more difficult ones. Use a long line wherever wildlife, traffic or other powerful distractions would make failure dangerous. The aim is not to prove that the dog can be off lead, but to provide freedom without gambling with safety. Scent searches, everyday obedience, rally and suitably adapted agility can give a terrier clear tasks without demanding long, repetitive sessions.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Extend walks, surfaces and unfamiliar environments gradually, with ample time for recovery.

## Health

Skin disease and itching are the clearest documented health concern in the West Highland White Terrier. In the WestieAlliansen breed club's voluntary 2019 health survey, skin problems were reported in 92 of 535 dogs, or about 17 per cent. The survey was not statistically standardised, so the figure should not be treated as an exact prevalence for the whole breed. It does, however, explain why recurring itching, redness, paw licking and ear trouble deserve attention.

Seek veterinary help when itching recurs or does not resolve. Parasites, infection, allergy and other causes can produce similar signs but need different treatment. In the same survey, 59 of 535 dogs had ear trouble more than once a year, and skin and ear problems sometimes occurred together. Changing food, shampooing frequently or giving supplements without a diagnosis can delay appropriate care.

Craniomandibular osteopathy (CMO) and Legg–Perthes disease are documented but were reported infrequently in the survey: two and five dogs respectively. CMO can cause sudden pain and swelling in a puppy's jaw. A DNA test can assist breeding decisions, but the breed club's RAS document stresses that it indicates a level of risk rather than giving a definitive healthy-or-affected result.

The Swedish Kennel Club has not established a health programme for the breed. There is therefore no official breed requirement for a generic package of knee, hip and eye examinations, for example. Instead, ask the breeder to describe skin disease, itching and recurring ear or digestive problems in both parents, their siblings and previous offspring. Ask how older relatives are faring and whether litters are followed up at about one and three years of age. If CMO occurs in the family, the breeder should be able to explain how that information and any test results influenced the choice of parents.

A responsible breeder distinguishes clearly between Swedish Kennel Club rules, breed-club recommendations and voluntary checks of their own. Ask to see registered results and veterinary certificates where they exist, but also value specific answers about close relatives. The absence of a central programme does not mean the absence of inherited risks.

## History & Origins

The West Highland White Terrier comes from the western Scottish Highlands and was shaped as a small, agile working terrier. Rough-coated terriers went to ground after quarry including foxes and badgers and controlled rats and other small animals. The work called for courage, speed, strong jaws and the ability to make independent decisions in difficult terrain.

White dogs were easier to distinguish from quarry against the Scottish moorland. During the 1860s, Colonel Malcolm of Poltalloch began to favour white terriers, an important step in the development of the modern breed. The name West Highland White Terrier was established in 1905. Crosses with Cairn Terriers were still permitted until 1924, showing how closely related the Scottish terrier types remained while the breed was being formed.

Today the breed is kept mainly as a companion, but its historic working style can still be seen in an interest in scents, holes, movement and independent action. It also explains why obedience, agility and other activities are often a better fit than a life made up solely of brief toilet walks.

## Living with the Breed

A West Highland White Terrier can live in a flat or a house; the content of daily life matters more than the size of the home. In a block of flats, the owner needs to teach the dog to remain calm around sounds and movement near doors, communal areas and windows. A garden is useful, but it does not replace walks, new scents and training together.

Time alone should be taught gradually, using periods short enough for the dog to remain comfortable. Take a step back if the dog shows anxiety or distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog outside at least every six hours during the day concerns exercise and toileting; it is not a promise that every Westie will cope well with six hours alone. Puppies, older dogs and anxious individuals need closer supervision and more frequent outings.

For a first-time owner, the breed can be a good choice if they want to train, are prepared to use a lead or long line and accept the continuing coat care. It is a poorer fit for someone seeking a dog that will always be off lead, rarely make itself heard and cope with full working days alone. Include regular hand-stripping in both the calendar and the budget before deciding.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions:

- Is there time for daily activity, training and undisturbed rest?
- Is there a safe plan for time alone and outdoor breaks during the working day?
- Can the dog be kept on a lead or long line where its hunting interest makes this necessary?
- Is there both time and budget for recurring professional hand-stripping?

If the answer is yes and you appreciate a small dog with plenty of initiative, a Westie can be an entertaining and close companion for many years.

West Highland White Terrier

West Highland White Terrier Club of England

VCA Animal Hospitals

Die Terrierhunde (Germany)

The West Highland White Terrier is a small, sturdy Scottish terrier with a harsh white coat that sheds lightly. Confident, vocal and independent yet affectionate, it suits city or country homes. Needs daily walks, mental stimulation, regular grooming and consistent, reward‑based training.

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