## Quick Facts

The Great Dane (Grand danois) is a very large German breed now kept mainly as a companion. It combines power with an elegant build and, according to the breed standard, should be friendly, affectionate and confident. Its size affects every part of ownership: everyday manners, transport, housing, veterinary visits and costs all require more planning than they would with a smaller dog.

- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 2, Pinscher and Schnauzer, Molossoid and Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs
- **Purpose:** companion, guard and protection dog in the breed standard; now primarily a companion
- **Height at the withers:** dogs at least 80 cm and preferably no more than 90 cm; bitches at least 72 cm and preferably no more than 84 cm
- **Coat:** very short, dense, close-lying and glossy, with no undercoat
- **Temperament:** friendly, affectionate and devoted; may be reserved with strangers
- **Questions for the breeder:** ask about hip dysplasia results, heart examinations in the family and any history of gastric dilatation-volvulus

The breed standard does not set a weight range. Figures found in breed guides should therefore be treated as estimates rather than a substitute for assessing an individual dog's body condition, proportions and health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Great Dane is tall, powerful and almost square in outline, without appearing heavy or clumsy. Dogs should be especially close to square, while bitches may be slightly longer in body. The head is long and clearly defined, the natural ears hang down, and the overall impression should balance strength with elegance.

The current standard divides the colours into three varieties: fawn or brindle; harlequin, merle or black; and blue. Merle is therefore included in the present standard, although older breed descriptions do not always reflect this. Each colour has detailed requirements, but a puppy buyer should place health, temperament and sound construction above a particular marking.

The coat is easy to care for but not maintenance-free. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt removes loose hair, particularly in spring and autumn when shedding is often more noticeable. Bathe the dog when it actually needs it and use the opportunity to check the skin, nails, feet, teeth and hanging ears. With no insulating undercoat, a Great Dane may need protection in cold, windy or wet weather. Judge this by the individual dog, its activity and the conditions rather than by a fixed temperature.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Great Dane should be friendly, affectionate, self-assured and willing to be guided. It may be reserved with strangers but should not be aggressive. Many people are drawn to the breed's close bond with its family, but the label “gentle giant” cannot guarantee how an individual dog will behave.

Size magnifies both good and bad habits. A dog that pulls on the lead, jumps up or charges towards a visitor is difficult to manage even when its intentions are friendly. Early work on calm greetings, loose-lead walking, recall, waiting and cooperative handling is therefore basic safety, not simply polished manners. Consistent, reward-based training suits the breed's intended willingness to cooperate. Harsh methods can create insecurity and do not make up for missing training.

Temperament varies between individuals and family lines. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other close relatives, ask how they respond to strangers and unfamiliar settings, and request results from official behaviour assessments where available. Previous experience with dogs is useful, especially for anyone who has not trained a dog of this size before.

## Training & Exercise

A Great Dane needs daily physical activity and mental enrichment, but the amount should reflect age, health, fitness and recovery. There is no well-supported minute-by-minute formula that suits every adult or puppy. Regular walks, time to sniff and move over varied ground, and short training sessions provide a better foundation than occasional strenuous outings.

Puppies grow for a long time and should neither be overloaded nor kept inactive. Let them develop coordination and strength through free but supervised movement and gradually longer walks. While the body is developing, limit repeated jumping, sharp turns, long runs beside a bicycle or runner, and boisterous play on slippery floors. The appropriate rate of progression varies; consult a vet or canine physiotherapist if a puppy is lame, stiff or recovering poorly.

A giant-breed puppy needs a complete food formulated for the growth of large or giant breeds. The aim is steady growth and a lean, healthy body condition, not the fastest possible growth. Do not add calcium or other minerals to a complete diet unless advised by a vet. In giant breeds the skeleton may still be maturing at around 15–16 months, although the timing differs between individuals.

Prioritise skills that make the adult dog safe and manageable: standing still, stepping onto scales, accepting nail care and examination, giving up objects, and passing people and dogs without lunging. Scent work, practical obedience and problem-solving provide mental stimulation without placing the body under heavy strain.

## Health

Prospective owners should discuss several important health risks openly with the breeder, particularly gastric dilatation-volvulus, dilated cardiomyopathy and hip dysplasia. Great Danes also have a shorter average lifespan than many smaller breeds. Longevity figures, however, describe a particular study population and cannot predict how long an individual dog will live.

**Gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV, is an acute, life-threatening emergency.** Seek veterinary care immediately if the dog repeatedly tries to vomit without bringing anything up, becomes restless, drools, develops a swollen abdomen, grows weak or collapses. Do not wait to see whether the signs pass. GDV is multifactorial and not fully understood, so no feeding routine can promise to prevent it. Ask whether close relatives have been affected and decide in advance which emergency hospital can receive the dog. A prophylactic gastropexy can be discussed with a vet. It reduces the risk of the stomach twisting but does not stop the stomach from dilating.

**Dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, may be present before the dog shows obvious signs.** An echocardiogram, ECG or ambulatory ECG, and sometimes blood biomarkers, may form part of a veterinary cardiac investigation. A normal result describes the dog at the time of examination; it is not a lifetime guarantee. Ask which heart examinations the parents and older relatives have had, how old they were when examined, and whether the family has a history of DCM or sudden death.

**Swedish hip dysplasia requirements are not the same as the breed club's recommendation.** For puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; Great Danes can be officially radiographed from 18 months of age. The Swedish Kennel Club's general rules prohibit breeding from grade E dogs and allow a grade D dog only when paired with an A or B dog. Dogs with clinical signs of hip dysplasia must not be bred from. The Swedish Great Dane Club goes further and recommends that breeding dogs are hip dysplasia-free. Ask to see the actual results rather than accepting the description “health tested”.

The Swedish Kennel Club also notes tonsillitis in the breed. Assessments pay particular attention to loose eyelids, weak feet, the construction of the forequarters and hindquarters, exaggerated breed features and temperament. A responsible breeder should be able to explain both the strengths and the problems in the line, including how older relatives have fared.

## History & Origins

The Great Dane is a German breed, despite the English name and the French-derived name Grand danois used in Sweden and several other countries. In its country of origin it is called the Deutsche Dogge.

The official breed history describes predecessors including the Bullenbeisser and boar-hunting dogs of a type between the heavy mastiff and the faster sighthound. In Berlin in 1878, judges and breeders agreed to unite the different names under Deutsche Dogge. The first breed standard was established in 1880, and the German breed club was founded in 1888.

Organised breeding began in Sweden in 1908. Older accounts take the story much further back, but claims about Celtic war dogs or an unbroken line from antiquity are considerably harder to substantiate. The documented German milestones give a more reliable account of how the modern breed developed.

## Living with the Breed

A Great Dane can live in a flat if its needs for exercise, rest and training are met, but the home and daily routine must work for a giant dog. A house with a large garden does not replace walks or company, and a small home is not automatically unsuitable. The practical questions are more useful than a simple house-or-flat rule.

Is there room for a large, supportive bed where the dog can rest undisturbed? Are the floors non-slip? Will the dog fit safely in the car, and could it use a ramp when old or injured? If the lift breaks down, can daily life still work with the stairs? How would two adults take an ill dog to the vet if it could not walk? The answers reveal more than the address alone.

The breed can live in a family with children, but friendly intentions do not remove the physical risk created by its size. A young or excited Great Dane can knock over a small child accidentally. An adult should always supervise dogs with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where children leave it alone. An adult must take responsibility for walks and handling.

The same caution applies to other animals. No one can promise that a particular Great Dane will live safely with a cat or another dog. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing and overly rough play, and give the cat dog-free spaces and high escape routes. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are reliably calm and safe.

An adult dog that has been trained to be alone can often manage a few hours, but individuals differ greatly and a young puppy cannot be left alone. Begin once the puppy feels secure in its new home, increase the time gradually, and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is longer than the dog can manage. Distress in a giant dog can quickly affect the whole home, so time alone must be taught and monitored rather than assumed to come naturally to the breed.

Great Dane (Grand danois)

The Great Dane Club of Germany (Deutscher Doggen-Club 1888 e.V.)

The Great Dane Club of UK

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Great Dane (Grand danois) is a giant, elegant dog, among the tallest breeds. Once a boar‑hunting and estate guard dog, it is now a loyal, people‑oriented companion. Calm indoors with moderate exercise needs, it requires space, careful training, health care and close daily companionship.

Voffvoff är en uppfödare av rasen Grand danois med bas i Hovmantorp i Sverige. Verksamhetens historik med grand danois går tillbaka till 2020.

Voffvoff

Hej.
Vi bor mitt i blekingska skogen med våra hundar och andra djur .
Vi föder upp Grand Danois i liten skala och då främst familje hundar.

Skog jätten's

## Quick Facts

In Sweden, the Collie is registered as two separate breeds: the Rough Collie, FCI 156, and the Smooth Collie, FCI 296. They are often discussed together because they share a recent ancestry, the same height range and a similar build, but have different coats. The Border Collie, however, is a different breed with its own standard.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with strong historical links to Scotland.
- **Roles:** herding dog, working dog and companion.
- **Height:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females in both breeds.
- **Weight:** the Smooth Collie standard gives 20.5–29.5 kg for males and 18–25 kg for females. The Rough Collie standard gives no official weight.
- **Colours:** sable and white, tricolour and blue merle.
- **Longevity:** in a large UK study, the median for Collies as a combined category was 13.3 years. This is a figure for a large population, not a prediction for an individual dog.

A Collie is best suited to someone who wants an active life with a responsive dog and is prepared to examine temperament as carefully as appearance. Coat length makes a clear difference to grooming, but does not reliably predict how energetic, confident or easy-going an individual dog will be.

## Appearance & Coat

The Collie is agile and well balanced, combining strength and mobility without looking heavy or coarse. The long, blunt wedge-shaped head, almond-shaped eyes and ears that tip forwards help create the characteristic expression. Both breeds have the same official height range. The Smooth Collie weight range should not be treated as an official guide for the Rough Collie, whose standard does not specify a weight.

The Rough Collie has a very dense double coat. The outer coat should be straight and harsh, while the undercoat is soft, woolly and dense enough almost to hide the skin. The mane, chest, legs and tail carry more abundant hair. Brush through to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath the collar. More frequent combing is needed during a moult. Bathe when necessary.

The Smooth Collie has a short, straight, harsh outer coat with a very dense undercoat. It is much easier to keep free of tangles, but it still sheds. Brushing during a moult removes loose hair and is also an opportunity to check the skin, paws and nails. The coat should not need trimming or clipping to remain manageable.

Both breeds come in sable and white, tricolour and blue merle. White markings may appear on the collar, chest, legs, feet and tail tip, among other places. Colour is a poor basis for choosing a puppy; health, temperament, everyday behaviour and the breeder’s aims matter more.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, active and cooperative dog with no nervousness or aggression. Many Collies learn quickly, pay close attention to their handler and enjoy being part of daily life. That is an excellent foundation for training, but it does not guarantee that every Collie will be confident, quiet, uncomplicated around children or easy for a first-time owner.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines, and fearfulness has been an important focus in Swedish breeding work. Ask for more than general descriptions such as ‘sweet’ or ‘sensitive’. Examine the parents’ full MH behaviour descriptions, meet adult relatives if possible, and ask how the dogs react to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces and surprises. How quickly they recover is just as important.

The Collie has a dedicated mental index based on the dog’s own MH results and those of its relatives. There are indices for curiosity/confidence, sociability, play, chase and gunshot response. A value of 100 represents the breed average; it is not a pass mark. An index should be considered alongside the full description, the wider family and the type of home or work for which the litter was bred.

The standards and the Swedish Kennel Club describe Collies as friendly towards dogs and people, but experience, health and training also shape behaviour at home. Assess the individual rather than treating coat length or breed name as a guarantee of personality.

## Training & Exercise

A Collie needs daily physical activity and tasks that make use of cooperation, concentration and curiosity. No credible number of minutes can suit a puppy, an adult competition dog and a senior equally well. Adjust effort and difficulty to the dog’s age, health, experience and recovery.

Combine walks with activities such as tracking, search work, obedience, rally, agility or simple scent games at home. Variety is more valuable than merely increasing speed or distance. Teach the dog to wait and settle as well; an active dog does not need to remain highly aroused all day.

Reward-based training, clear cues and gradually harder tasks suit a dog that enjoys working with people. Break new skills into manageable steps, reward good choices and make the exercise easier if the dog becomes uncertain or loses concentration. Harsh corrections are not a shortcut to confidence.

A Collie can suit a first-time owner who wants to train, can recognise early signs of worry and chooses a litter on the strength of documented temperament. It is a poorer match for someone drawn mainly to the appearance, looking for a fixed exercise timetable or expecting the dog to entertain itself in a garden.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the actual results matter more than being told that the parents are ‘tested’. Ask for registration numbers and check hip results, MH records, eye findings and any relevant DNA results. Registration requirements and breeding recommendations are not the same thing.

For both Collie breeds, current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules require both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. Smooth Collie breeding dogs should have grade A or B hips. A Rough Collie with grade D or E must not be used for breeding, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a combined parental hip index above 100. The rules therefore differ between the two breeds.

The rules also require a known mental status. For resident Swedish parents born in 2016 or later, the full MH behaviour description must be completed and all 33 positions recorded. The handler may decline the gunshot element without the dog losing its known-status designation. MH describes reactions; the dog does not pass or fail it.

Collie Eye Anomaly, or CEA, is a congenital developmental abnormality affecting the back of the eye. It ranges from CH/CRD, which often causes no vision problem noticeable in daily life, to coloboma and rarer consequences such as bleeding or retinal detachment. Do not ask only whether a dog has been ‘CEA tested’; request the exact diagnosis and the age at examination.

Current Swedish registration rules do not impose a specific eye-examination requirement on Collies. The breed club nevertheless recommends that puppies are examined before leaving the breeder and that breeding dogs are examined again as adults. The Swedish Kennel Club explains that CH/CRD is best detected in young puppies, usually at 8–10 weeks, and recommends an adult examination before first mating in at-risk breeds.

A variant in the ABCB1 gene, commonly called MDR1, can make a dog sensitive to certain medicines. Testing is relevant for both Rough and Smooth Collies. Dogs with two copies are at greatest risk, but a dog with one copy may also react. Keep the result and show it to the vet before medication is given. The test addresses this particular drug sensitivity; it is not a general certificate of health.

The Swedish Kennel Club does not permit registration of puppies produced by mating two merle Collies. Merle combined with sable is also subject to specific rules on DNA status and breeding restrictions. A puppy buyer should therefore ask how the parents’ colours and any merle variant have been established, rather than choosing solely by the puppy’s markings.

## History & Origins

The Collie is a British breed with strong Scottish associations, although its precise early origin is uncertain. The breed standard describes a background in which local dogs mixed with dogs brought to Scotland by the Romans. Rough and Smooth Collies developed from the same working stock and shared bloodlines until relatively recent times.

Collies were first shown in England in 1861. Queen Victoria’s interest later helped make them fashionable as companions and show dogs. Their working ability remained important: the elegant build and responsiveness make more sense when seen in the context of a herding and working dog, not merely an appearance ideal.

During the twentieth century, the Rough Collie in particular became closely associated with the fictional Lassie. Eric Knight created the character in *Lassie Come-Home*, and the 1943 film used a Rough Collie. The stories shaped a heroic image of the breed, but a real dog must be judged by its own temperament, health and upbringing.

## Living with the Breed

A Collie can live in a flat or a house when given enough activity, rest and company. A garden does not replace walks and shared tasks. In a block of flats, the owner should also teach calm behaviour around sounds in communal areas and prevent the dog from spending all day watching the window or front door.

An adult should supervise time with children, set clear rules and provide a resting place where the dog will not be disturbed. Children should not climb on or hug the dog, or bother it while it is eating or sleeping. Even a friendly dog can feel trapped, and an enthusiastic Collie may accidentally knock over a small child during play.

Many Collies can live with other dogs and cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Prevent chasing, give the cat clear escape routes and do not leave the animals alone together until their relationship is settled. Small pets need secure accommodation that the dog cannot enter or watch from close range.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. Start with very brief periods when the puppy feels safe and is calm, and increase the duration only when it can settle. The amount of time an adult dog can manage varies; use the dog’s behaviour rather than a general maximum as your guide.

Before buying, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- Is the litter Rough or Smooth, and what are adult relatives like to live with?
- What are the parents’ hip results and, for a Rough Collie, their current hip indices?
- Have both parents completed MH, and what do MH, mental index and close relatives show about fearfulness and recovery?
- When were the puppies and parents examined by an eye specialist, and what exact CEA findings were recorded?
- What is each parent’s MDR1 status, and does the mating involve merle?

Coat length alone should not decide the choice. Look for a litter whose health, temperament and everyday behaviour across the wider family can be checked.

Collie

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Collie Association (UK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Collie is an intelligent, medium‑large herding dog with a long double coat needing regular grooming. Gentle, loyal, and sensitive, it bonds closely with family and prefers kind training. Adaptable to town or country, it needs daily mental stimulation and exercise to stay content.

Glamshine's är en uppfödare av rasen Collie med bas i Nossebro i Sverige.

Glamshine's

Japanese Chin

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Japanese Chin is a small, fine‑boned toy companion with a silky, low‑maintenance coat and expressive, upturned face. Catlike and graceful, it bonds deeply to one person, is calm and playful indoors, needs moderate exercise, and prefers gentle handling and a peaceful home.

Vi har en liten uppfödning av Japanese chin. Vi vill ha sunda friska hundar. Jasen är en lätt ras att ha som inte är skälig. Lätt pälsvård.  Aktiv och lättlärd. Trivs med familjen.

Spirean's

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

## Quick Facts

The Biewer Terrier is a very small, active companion dog with the alertness of a terrier and a long, tri-coloured coat that requires considerable care. The breed was developed in Germany from Yorkshire Terrier lines but now has its own breed standard.

- **Size:** the current Swedish breed standard specifies a height of 21–26 cm at the withers and a weight of 2.2–3.8 kg.
- **Breed status:** recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the other Nordic kennel clubs, but not by the FCI.
- **Temperament:** lively, alert, close to its family and keen to join in activities; stubbornness and some prey drive may occur.
- **Activity:** needs exercise, play and mental training every day despite its small size.
- **Coat:** long, straight and silky with no undercoat. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as non-shedding, but the coat needs frequent brushing.
- **The key everyday question:** do you have time for coat care, tooth brushing, training the dog to stay alone and an active little dog?

## Appearance & Coat

The Biewer Terrier is a small, elegant dog whose most distinctive features are its long, tri-coloured coat and the ponytail on its head. The body is slightly longer than tall, although a squarer outline is also accepted. The ears are small and erect, the eyes are dark and the expression is alert.

The current Swedish standard specifies 21–26 cm and 2.2–3.8 kg. You may also encounter 18–28 cm and 1.8–3.6 kg in another Nordic version of the standard. This does not mean that there are two size varieties. Use the current Swedish Kennel Club standard when comparing Swedish information. These measurements describe the standard, not how large every puppy will become.

The coat should be long, straight, soft and silky with no undercoat. The head is blue or black, gold or tan, and white; the body is blue or black and white, with white on areas including the chest, abdomen, legs and tip of the tail as described in the standard.

This coat suits an owner who accepts a fixed grooming routine. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends going through it at least every other day and says that bathing may be needed every one or two weeks depending on coat length and need. Ease out small tangles before they become tight and pay particular attention where the coat rubs together. A short pet trim reduces the work but does not remove the need for combing, bathing and regular clipping. Anyone who wants to show the dog needs to keep the coat in a condition that meets the standard.

The fact that the breed does not shed according to the Swedish Kennel Club does not make it allergy-safe. Allergens also come from skin, saliva and other bodily fluids, and the Swedish Asthma and Allergy Association stresses that no dog breed can be called allergy-safe. Where dog allergy is a concern, the reaction needs to be assessed for the individual person and dog before purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

The Biewer Terrier is typically a lively, attentive and close companion, not a passive lapdog. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as cheerful, alert and fearless, while the breed standard highlights trainability, loyalty and a strong attachment to the family. This often makes the dog involved in everything happening at home.

The terrier side is most evident in watchfulness, independence and a desire to follow movement. The Swedish Kennel Club states that some prey drive occurs and that the dog may run after birds, cats and other small animals. A reliable recall, a lead where needed and early training around such distractions are therefore more important than the dog's small size might suggest.

Barking cannot be predicted from the breed name alone. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club describes considerable variation: some individuals bark, while others do not. If noise levels are decisive in a home with thin walls, ask what the parent dogs tend to react to and meet them if possible. Also plan early, gradual training around everyday sounds and calm behaviour at the door.

## Training & Exercise

The Biewer Terrier needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no well-supported minute-by-minute formula that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness and how well the dog settles after activity are better guides than a fixed number of minutes.

A workable routine includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play and short training sessions. Train recall, lead walking, handling, house training and settling calmly in clear, gradual steps. Small dogs need the same consistent everyday skills as large ones; carrying the dog past every difficult situation is not a substitute for training.

The breed may enjoy agility, rally obedience, nose work and trick training. Adapt obstacles and physical load to a small body and build fitness gradually. The aim is a dog that both wants to work and can settle at home; more activity is not automatically better if there is too little recovery.

## Health

The overall health of the Biewer Terrier in Sweden cannot yet be summarised with confidence because the number of registered dogs is limited. It is therefore more responsible to examine documented results and the closest relatives than to label the breed either healthy or unhealthy.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs according to the Swedish Kennel Club. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella status. Ask the breeder to show documented results for both parents and explain how any findings in close relatives have affected breeding decisions.

Eyes are another area to check. The breed club recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and describes both cataracts in Nordic dogs and the inherited retinal condition prcd-PRA, for which a DNA test is available. Ask for current eye results and how the breeder uses DNA results when planning a mating; a genetic test does not replace a clinical eye examination.

Teeth require practical preventive care from the start. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends daily tooth brushing because small dogs can readily develop tartar and poor oral health. Gradually accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled, and ask a veterinarian to assess retained baby teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty eating.

A good health discussion before purchase should therefore cover official results, actual diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's follow-up plan. A long list of conditions that can affect small dogs says less than verifiable information about the particular mating.

## History & Origins

The Biewer Terrier was developed in Germany during the 1980s from Yorkshire Terriers. The background section of the Swedish standard describes a 1984 litter in which puppies born to two purebred Yorkshire Terriers had white markings. The Biewer couple then continued to breed deliberately for the trait.

The breed therefore shares its origins with the Yorkshire Terrier, but it is not simply another colour name for that breed. It has its own standard, a defined tri-coloured pattern and is described in the standard as clearly genetically distinct from the breed of origin. The first Biewer Terrier registered in Sweden entered the Swedish Kennel Club register in 2018.

The breed is nationally recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and other Nordic kennel clubs but is not recognised by the FCI. This mainly matters for registration and certain international show awards. If importing, ask the Swedish Kennel Club to confirm that the particular pedigree can be registered before paying a deposit; a registration certificate from another country is not in itself a guarantee of Swedish registration.

## Living with the Breed

The Biewer Terrier can live in either a flat or a house, but a small home does not make dog ownership low-maintenance. What matters is whether the dog receives daily activity, can be trained to stay calm around everyday sounds, and gets the extensive coat and dental care the breed needs.

With children, the dog's very small body is the main safety issue. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that dogs and young children always have an adult present and that very small dogs are handled with extra care. Children should not carry a puppy, chase it or disturb it in its resting place. Calm interaction says more about suitability than the label “child-friendly”.

Living with a cat or other dogs can work, but it is not guaranteed by breed. The Biewer Terrier's prey drive makes a running cat especially relevant. Give the cat a secure dog-free area and high escape places, keep initial meetings short and controlled, and do not allow chasing. With other dogs, play needs to be managed so that the little dog is not injured by the size difference.

Time alone must be trained, not tested with a long first absence. The Swedish Kennel Club states that a young puppy cannot be left alone and that an adult dog trained to be alone can normally manage a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. Begin when the puppy feels secure, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often when young or old.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions: can you care for the coat throughout the year, brush the teeth daily, plan gradual training for time alone, and give a small but active dog both exercise and mental work? If the answer is yes, the Biewer Terrier can be an engaged and close companion; if you want a low-maintenance little dog, it is a poorer choice.

Biewer Terrier

Deutscher Biewer Yorkshire Terrier Club (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The Biewer Terrier is a small, tri-colored toy companion dog with a long, silky, low-shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, playful, and people-oriented, it suits apartment living, needs moderate exercise, gentle training, and can live into its mid teens with good care.

Dancing Jewels är en uppfödare av raserna Yorkshireterrier och Biewer terrier med bas i Lund i Sverige.

Dancing Jewels

## Quick Facts

The English Bulldog is a British, FCI-recognised companion breed in Group 2. It is compact and powerful, but breed type must never come at the expense of free breathing, sound movement or healthy eyes and skin.

- **Origin:** Great Britain
- **Purpose:** Companion dog
- **Official weight:** approximately 25 kg for males and 23 kg for females
- **Height at the withers:** the current FCI standard does not specify an official height
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close-lying
- **Breed ideal:** alert, courageous, loyal, dependable and affectionate
- **Most important when buying a puppy:** check documented respiratory function and watch how the parents breathe, move and recover

The breed may suit someone who wants a sociable companion that enjoys being close to its family and is prepared to choose a breeder very carefully. It is less suitable for anyone seeking a dog for strenuous physical training, or who cannot adapt daily life to warm weather and the way the dog breathes.

## Appearance & Coat

An English Bulldog should be low, broad, muscular and compact without looking exaggerated. The head is large in proportion to the body, but the breed standard makes clear that it must not impair the dog's balance or movement. Breathing difficulty is not a desirable breed trait.

The nose should be black and broad, with large, open nostrils. The face may have fine wrinkles, but not so much skin that the eyes, nose or breathing are affected. The eyes should be free from obvious problems. The tail is naturally short, but should not be inverted or held so tightly that it affects the skin or the dog's ability to defecate. Movement should be sound and unrestricted.

The coat is short, smooth and easy to keep clean. Accepted colours include brindle, various shades of red, fawn, fallow, white and pied. Black, black and tan, and an unpigmented nose are not desirable under the breed standard.

Coat care is straightforward, but skin folds need attention. Check the facial folds and any folds around the tail, clean them when necessary and dry the skin thoroughly. Redness, odour, moisture, itching or tenderness calls for veterinary advice rather than simply more cleaning. Accustom the dog from an early age to having its skin, eyes, ears, paws, teeth and tail examined.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an alert, courageous, loyal and affectionate dog, but temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. An English Bulldog may be very people-oriented and sociable, while its strength and enthusiasm can sometimes seem boisterous or pushy.

Assess the individual dog, not just the breed description. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives in an everyday setting. They should be able to meet people without excessive fear or unprovoked aggression and settle again after activity.

Adult supervision is essential around children. The dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should learn not to climb on it, wake it or handle its facial folds and tail. A solidly built Bulldog can accidentally knock over a small child even when its intentions are friendly.

The same caution applies to other animals. Some individuals live happily with dogs or cats, but the breed name does not guarantee compatibility. Early socialisation, calm introductions and the option to keep the animals apart at first are more useful than general promises that the breed will always get on with other pets.

## Training & Exercise

An English Bulldog needs daily physical activity and mental stimulation, but the right amount depends on its breathing, how well it copes with heat and how quickly it recovers—not on a fixed number of minutes. Calm everyday training, scent work, problem-solving and walks at the dog's own pace provide useful activity. The aim is not to exhaust the dog completely.

Train kindly, clearly and consistently. Short sessions using rewards the dog values make it easier to maintain focus. Prioritise responsiveness, recall, cooperative handling and the ability to settle. The dog is strong for its size, so loose-lead walking and calm greetings should be taught early.

Adapt exercise to the weather and ground conditions. In hot or humid weather, a short-skulled dog can find it harder to cool down. Stop if the dog develops obvious breathing noises, starts using its abdomen forcefully to breathe, pants without recovering, bobs its head in time with its breathing, falls behind or seems unusually tired. Collapse, fainting, blue-tinged or very pale mucous membranes, and severe breathing difficulty require emergency veterinary care.

A healthy individual should be able to walk, play and explore without breathing becoming an obstacle. Snoring, harsh respiratory noises and slow recovery should not be dismissed as charming quirks.

## Health

Respiratory function is the most important breed-specific health issue. BOAS, or brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, can affect a dog's ability to play, eat, sleep, exercise and regulate its body temperature. The risk is related to the short skull and the soft tissues that must fit within the airways. English Bulldogs are not all affected to the same degree, and severity can change with age, body condition and other individual factors.

In Sweden, the breed is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-S health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have completed an official RFG-S assessment before mating. A dog must be at least 24 months old for the official assessment, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. The assessment includes the nostrils, body condition, heart and lungs, as well as a brisk three-minute walking test with checks before and after exercise.

RFG-S grades respiratory function from 0 to 3. Grades 0 and 1 are classed as clinically unaffected, while grades 2 and 3 mean that the dog is clinically affected by BOAS. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, dogs graded 2 or 3, or with severely pinched nostrils, must not be used for breeding. A result is an important checkpoint, not a lifelong guarantee; BOAS can develop, so a dog may need to be assessed again.

Ask the breeder to show you the parents' current results and verify them yourself in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Also observe the dogs at rest and after gentle movement: breathing should be quiet and effortless, nostrils open and recovery reasonable. Airway surgery in the dog or its close relatives is important information. A dog that has undergone surgery to open its airways cannot receive an official RFG-S result.

The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific judging instructions also highlight movement, skin, eyes and tail. Look for a dog that moves freely, has healthy eyes without irritation, skin without inflamed folds, and a tail that can be kept clean and does not sit tightly over the anus. Keep the dog at a healthy body condition, as excess weight can add to the respiratory burden. Seek veterinary advice for new breathing noises, declining stamina, heat intolerance, recurring skin problems, eye irritation, lameness or problems around the tail.

## History & Origins

The English Bulldog's documented history is rooted in Great Britain. The term “bulldog” is recorded from the 1630s, and this type of dog was formerly used for bull-baiting. When such animal sports were banned in 1835, the breed's purpose and development changed.

Bulldogs began appearing at dog shows around 1860. During the transition from fighting dog to companion and show dog, the desired temperament also shifted towards the affectionate and dependable dog described in today's breed standard. Older accounts of precisely which medieval dogs created the breed are less certain and should not be confused with documented history.

The breed has long been a British symbol, but its most important legacy today is not an extreme appearance. The current standard instead emphasises that exaggeration, breathing difficulty, unsound movement and obvious eye problems are undesirable.

## Living with the Breed

An English Bulldog can live in a flat or a house if daily life provides outdoor time, activity, rest and a temperature the dog can tolerate. The size of the home matters less than regular access outdoors and the ability to prevent overheating. A Bulldog with laboured breathing does not become better suited to a sedentary life simply because it takes little exercise.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short, safe periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary in their tolerance, and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan the puppy period and working days before buying rather than assuming the breed will automatically cope for a set length of time.

Choose a breeder for function and openness, not just head shape, colour or awards. Ask for clear answers to the following questions:

- What RFG-S grade does each parent have, when were the assessments completed, and can the results be verified?
- Can you watch the parents move and recover without marked breathing noise or effort?
- Are there recurring skin, eye, movement or tail problems in close relatives?
- Can the tail be moved and kept clean without pain or tight skin folds?
- How have mating and whelping gone in the bloodline, and have the females been able to give birth naturally?
- How are the puppies socialised, and how is the parents' temperament assessed?

A good match is an individual able to live a normal dog's life with free breathing, sound movement and a stable temperament. That matters more than having the shortest possible muzzle, the broadest front or the heaviest build.

English Bulldog

The Bulldog Club Inc. (UK)

The English Bulldog is a compact, muscular companion with a broad chest, wrinkled face and short coat. Calm and affectionate, it bonds closely with families, often adores children, and needs gentle, moderate exercise plus careful lifelong management of breathing, skin and joint health.

Furiosa Mi Rakel är en uppfödare av rasen Engelsk bulldogg med bas i Hörby i Sverige.

Furiosa Mi Rakel

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Norwegian Kennel Club

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Lyckliga Nosen är en uppfödare av rasen Labrador retriever med bas i Vänersborg i Sverige.

Lyckliga Nosen

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

Neon Stars är en uppfödare av rasen Siberian husky med bas i Eslöv i Sverige.

Neon Stars

Moanina’s

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Aelvorgårdens är en uppfödare av rasen Tysk Schäferhund med bas i älgarås i Sverige.

Aelvorgårdens

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small but powerful herding and cattle dog that is now kept mainly as an active companion. It is best suited to someone who wants to combine walks with everyday training, scent work or other forms of mental activity.

- Height at the withers: approximately 25–30 centimetres
- Breed-standard weight: 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females
- Country of origin: Great Britain, with the breed’s working history rooted in Wales
- Coat: a medium-length double coat that sheds, particularly during heavier seasonal moults
- Temperament: the ideal is a bold, alert and friendly dog, but individuals vary considerably
- Lifespan: the Swedish breed club describes many dogs as reaching 12–14 years, although health and longevity vary

The Pembroke and the Welsh Corgi Cardigan are two separate breeds, not varieties of the same breed. They differ in features such as size, colour and tail. Do not choose between them on the strength of simplistic claims that one is always calmer or more sociable.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke should be low-set, strong and sturdily built without appearing heavy or restricted. The body is medium in length, the chest is broad and deep, and the ears are upright. Despite its short legs, a healthy Pembroke should move freely and actively.

The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25–30 centimetres, a weight of 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females. These figures are guidelines, not the correct target weight for every dog. Body condition and muscle mass must also be considered.

The coat has straight, medium-length outer hair and a dense undercoat. Permitted colours are red, sable, fawn, and black and tan. They may appear with or without white on the legs, chest and neck; a small amount of white on the head and muzzle is also allowed.

Older descriptions can give the impression that every Pembroke has a short tail. In fact, puppies may be born with a full tail or a natural bobtail of varying length. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden unless it is medically necessary. A docked dog is therefore not Swedish-bred, so its origin and import documents should be checked carefully.

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is generally a little taller, has a long, fox-like tail and comes in a wider range of permitted colours. Colour or personality cannot identify the breed reliably; the pedigree establishes which breed the dog belongs to.

The coat does not require trimming. Brush it regularly and brush through the undercoat when shedding increases. This removes loose hair and makes changes in the skin easier to spot. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than to a fixed timetable. Calmly accustom the puppy to brushing, nail care and tooth brushing.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a bold, workmanlike, outgoing and friendly dog. However, the Swedish Kennel Club’s current BPH behaviour analysis shows considerable variation among the dogs assessed. Some greet strangers enthusiastically, while others show much less interest. A breed description therefore cannot predict exactly how any particular puppy will develop.

The Pembroke’s background as a farm and cattle dog is often reflected in watchfulness, quick reactions and an ability to make its own decisions. Many enjoy working with their owner, but some need more practice to choose the handler over events in their surroundings. This can make the breed rewarding to train, although everyday cooperation should not be taken for granted.

The Swedish Kennel Club highlights possible tendencies to guard, bark and nip at heels. The last of these is linked to the breed’s historical work close to the hind legs of cattle, but herding behaviour is not identical in every dog. Nipping at running children, feet or trouser legs should still be stopped early. Reward calm contact, attentiveness and choosing an appropriate task instead.

Vocal behaviour also varies. A Pembroke may react to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or anticipation, but the breed name alone does not determine whether barking will become a problem. Ask how the puppy’s parents and close relatives behave at home. Establish calm routines around the door, visitors and rest from the outset.

For a family with children, the right individual and a well-managed routine matter more than the label “family dog”. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes or miles will not suit every dog. Age, health, fitness and what the walk involves all matter more than a standard timetable.

A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that requires concentration, such as searching for food, tracking or learning practical skills. Balance calm activities with movement and planned rest. A dog that runs a great deal but never learns to settle may still find it difficult to relax.

Start early with recall, loose-lead walking, impulse control and a calm cue that interrupts barking or nipping. Reward-based training makes the desired choice clear to the dog. Keep sessions focused and finish while the dog is still engaged rather than repeating the same exercise until interest fades.

The breed may enjoy obedience, rally, tracking, scent work and agility. Choose an activity to suit the individual dog’s body and motivation. Not every Pembroke has herding ability simply because the breed historically worked cattle; these qualities must be assessed in the individual.

Short legs are not a reason to treat a healthy adult dog as fragile. Build fitness and muscle gradually and provide good grip on slippery floors. Adjust exercise for puppies, older dogs and dogs recovering from injury. Sudden pain, reluctance to move, lameness or weakness calls for veterinary assessment, not blanket advice about stairs or ramps.

## Health

The Swedish breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as a generally healthy breed, but buyers should still check hips, eyes and documented health in the family. It is important to distinguish between registration requirements, breed-club advice and DNA tests that happen to be available.

Since January 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club has required both parents to have an official hip status before mating if their puppies are to be registered. Ask to see the results and how the breeder evaluated the proposed pairing; “X-rayed” does not mean that the result was clear.

Svenska Welsh Corgi Klubben, the Swedish breed club, also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination before mating. Ask for current results for both parents and about eye findings in close relatives. The club also monitors lameness and premature closure of the ulna, known as short ulna, which can cause the front leg to develop abnormally. A young dog with an increasingly turned-out foot, a curved foreleg or lameness should be examined promptly by a vet.

DNA tests for degenerative myelopathy, or DM, and von Willebrand disease type 1 are available for the breed, but their results must be interpreted correctly. The current Swedish breeding strategy describes the DM test as a risk test and does not recommend routine testing, because it does not give the complete clinical picture and the disease has not been documented as a major problem among Swedish dogs. For vWD type 1, the breed club withdrew its previous routine-testing advice after a review with the Swedish Kennel Club’s DNA group. A laboratory result does not in itself prove that a dog is ill or will become ill. Ask the breeder why a test was performed and how its result was balanced against other aspects of health and genetic diversity.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition throughout life. A clear waist should be visible from above, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Weigh the dog regularly, but do not let the figures in the breed standard replace a proper body-condition assessment. Consult a vet if weight changes without a clear reason or the dog needs a structured weight-loss programme.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke developed in Wales as a farm and herding dog, but its earliest origins have not been conclusively established. Theories involving Flemish weavers, Nordic spitz-type dogs and a relationship with the Swedish Vallhund should be treated as theories rather than settled history.

Its documented work on Welsh farms explains the breed more clearly. Pembrokes helped move cattle to and from barns, guarded farms and performed several other duties. As heelers, they drove cattle while working close to the animals’ hind legs. The task demanded alertness, mobility and determination, as well as both independence and cooperation.

Pembrokes and Cardigans developed their own distinctive features in Wales but were long treated collectively as Welsh Corgis. They were separated into two breeds in 1934. The FCI lists the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as breed number 39 in Group 1 for sheepdogs and cattle dogs.

In Sweden, Pembrokes live almost entirely as companion dogs, although some still herd. Their working heritage is more often expressed through dog sports, scent work and an everyday life in which they solve tasks with their owner.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Pembroke can live in a flat, terraced house or detached home if its routine provides enough activity, rest and companionship. Its low height does not make it inactive, and a garden cannot replace walks or training. In a flat, it is particularly important to work early on calm responses to sounds in shared areas, movement outside windows and activity at the door.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief periods and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed. Puppies and anxious dogs need particular care. Dogs also need to be taken out regularly during the day, so anyone working long hours must plan for company and daytime walks.

The breed can live with other dogs or cats, but compatibility depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give a cat dog-free places and a clear escape route, keep early meetings controlled and prevent chasing. Small pets should be protected from stress and physical contact. Previous experience with another species is useful information, but it cannot guarantee the next relationship.

The Pembroke can suit a first-time owner who enjoys training and can be consistent without using harsh methods. It is less suitable for someone who wants a dog content with very short walks, that sheds little, or that will automatically be quiet and compliant.

The breed has grown markedly in Sweden. Careful checks become even more important as a breed gains popularity. Meet the breeder and the puppy’s mother, and verify registration, microchip details, the veterinary examination certificate and official health results. If the dog is imported or has a docked tail, its origin and import documents should be clear. A sound decision rests on records, open answers and how the dogs actually behave, not photographs or promises of a particular temperament.

Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Association Française du Corgi

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small, sturdy herding dog with short legs, a fox-like face, and a weather-resistant double coat that sheds year-round. Intelligent, active, and people-oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, kind training, and careful weight and back management.

Pemberwood's är en uppfödare av rasen Welsh corgi pembroke med bas i Arvika i Sverige.

Pemberwood's

## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Liten kennel med fokus på hälsa och lynne. Våra hundar lever som familjemedlemmar.  Har en kull ca vartannat år.

Vampyrias

## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Sillesjöräckans är en uppfödare av rasen Rottweiler med bas i Skurup i Sverige. Sillesjöräckans har fött upp rottweiler sedan 2003.

Sillesjöräckans

## Quick Facts

The American Staffordshire Terrier, often called the Amstaff, is an American terrier in FCI Group 3. Compact and exceptionally strong, it is now primarily kept as a companion. The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys active training and is prepared to take responsibility for a powerful dog in everyday situations.

- The desired height at the withers is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females.
- The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 28–33 kg for males and 19–25 kg for females, but healthy body condition and balanced proportions matter more than a single figure.
- The coat is short, close, stiff and glossy, and is generally easy to maintain.
- The breed ideal is an alert, courageous and interested dog. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes the Amstaff as sociable, active and willing to cooperate, although individuals can differ considerably.
- Anyone planning to travel with the dog must check the route in advance: the American Staffordshire Terrier is subject to breed bans in both Norway and Denmark.

The American Staffordshire Terrier is a recognised breed with its own standard. A broad skull, short coat and muscular body are therefore not enough to identify a dog as an Amstaff. For a prospective puppy owner, a registered pedigree and information about the parents are much more useful than assumptions based on appearance.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Staffordshire Terrier should be strong for its size, muscular and compact, yet still agile and mobile. Its build should look balanced rather than so heavy or exaggerated that movement is affected. The desired height is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females. The standard requires height and weight to be in proportion but gives no weight range. The Swedish Kennel Club's figures are therefore a practical approximation, not a target weight that every dog should reach.

The coat lies close to the body and is short, stiff and glossy. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt will often remove loose hair, while bathing can be reserved for when it is genuinely needed. Calmly accustom a puppy to having its paws, nails, ears, mouth and skin checked. This makes both routine care and future veterinary examinations easier.

Solid, parti-colour and patched coats are permitted. All-white coats, coats that are more than 80 per cent white, black and tan, and liver are not encouraged under the standard. Colour does not reliably predict temperament or health. Redness, itching, persistent paw licking or changes in the ears should be assessed as symptoms, not attributed to coat colour.

## Temperament & Personality

An American Staffordshire Terrier should be alert, curious and courageous, but breed descriptions express an ideal and population averages, not the temperament of every dog. The Swedish Kennel Club's behavioural assessment data show relatively high sociability and energy at breed level, alongside substantial variation between individuals. Upbringing, experience and training matter, but the behaviour of close relatives is also relevant when choosing a puppy.

Ask the breeder to explain the parents' BPH behavioural assessments and, where available, their mental index using specific everyday examples. Find out how they respond to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces, handling and other dogs. Ideally, meet the dam and other close relatives. The label ‘sociable’ reveals far less than a description of how a dog recovers after an unexpected event.

This is a physically powerful breed that can be forceful. Calm, managed encounters are therefore more valuable than expecting the dog to greet everyone. Neither breed nor sex can determine whether an Amstaff will live safely with a particular dog, cat or small animal. Assess the individual dog's previous experience, interest in chasing or play, and ability to disengage and settle.

When introducing a cat, make sure the cat has protected spaces and can leave at any time. Use a gate or another secure barrier, keep early sessions short and calm, and prevent chasing from the outset. Do not leave the animals alone together until their behaviour is well understood, and accept that some pairings will never be safe.

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a family with children, but an adult must always take responsibility for their interactions. Children should leave the dog undisturbed while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a protected space of its own. Because of the breed's strength, children should not handle the dog alone in situations where a sudden lunge or encounter with another dog may be difficult to control.

## Training & Exercise

The American Staffordshire Terrier needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no single number of hours that suits every dog. A young dog, a fit adult and a dog with pain or joint disease require different plans. Adjust the level to age, health, recovery and how the dog behaves at home after exercise. The aim is a well-conditioned dog that can switch between activity and rest, not a dog exhausted at any cost.

Walks can be combined with scent work, tracking, obedience and short problem-solving activities. The Swedish Kennel Club highlights nosework, tracking and obedience as suitable pursuits. Increase duration and load gradually, and keep the dog at a healthy body condition. If the dog suddenly moves differently, hesitates before jumping into the car or recovers more slowly, ask a vet to investigate the cause. Do not try to solve the change by adding more exercise.

Everyday training should begin early and use rewards, clear routines and manageable steps. The following skills are particularly useful for a strong American Staffordshire Terrier:

- walking on a loose lead and turning away from an approaching dog;
- a well-rehearsed recall and a cue to leave an object or situation;
- calm greetings without jumping or pulling;
- waiting and settling calmly behind a gate or other barrier;
- relaxed handling of paws, nails, ears, mouth and body.

Training that relies on pain, fear or harsh corrections can damage both trust and learning. Reward the behaviour you want, make an exercise easier when the dog struggles, and seek help from a knowledgeable trainer early if the dog's strength or reactions become difficult to manage.

## Health

Hips, elbows, skin and cruciate ligaments are important areas to ask about in the American Staffordshire Terrier. The Swedish Kennel Club identifies hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cruciate ligament problems and skin conditions involving itching, rashes, red paws and allergy. This does not mean every dog will be affected. Ask for specific information about parents, siblings and previous litters rather than accepting a general claim of ‘healthy lines’.

For Swedish-registered breeding, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; American Staffordshire Terriers must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. A recorded result only means that the assessment exists, not that the joint is necessarily unaffected, so check the actual grades. The breed club's breeding strategy also recommends that a proposed litter's preliminary hip and elbow indices exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with the registration rules.

NCL-A is an inherited neurological disorder that affects the cerebellum and can cause balance and coordination problems, often first appearing between three and five years of age. It is inherited as an autosomal recessive condition with incomplete penetrance. DNA results are recorded as normal, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding. Ask to see the registered results and understand how the proposed pairing has been planned.

When assessing a litter, check:

- the parents' exact hip and elbow results and the litter's preliminary indices;
- NCL-A status and how the results affect the proposed mating;
- BPH assessments and mental index where available, supported by examples of close relatives' everyday behaviour;
- skin disease, cruciate injuries and other recurring problems among parents, siblings and earlier offspring.

## History & Origins

The American Staffordshire Terrier developed in the United States from bull-and-terrier dogs brought by immigrants during the nineteenth century. The American parent club records dogs of this type in the country by about 1870. The history includes a background in dog fighting, but the modern breed's official standard and breeding should be judged against today's expectations for function, health and temperament.

In 1936, the American Kennel Club admitted the dogs to its Stud Book as Staffordshire Terriers. The name changed to American Staffordshire Terrier on 1 January 1972 to distinguish the breed from the newly recognised Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The first American Staffordshire Terrier was registered with the Swedish Kennel Club in 1991.

These dates explain the changes in name, but they do not make every similar-looking dog the same breed. For today's puppy buyer, a verifiable pedigree, documented health information and knowledge of close relatives are more valuable than loose labels such as ‘pit bull type’.

## Living with the Breed

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough activity, recovery time and a secure routine. The size of the home matters less than how daily life is organised. In a block of flats, the owner must be able to manage the dog safely in corridors, lifts and confined spaces, prevent nuisance noise and arrange walks without every outing being dominated by difficult encounters with other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a settled adult should, after careful training, be left for only a few hours at a time. The Swedish rule that dogs must normally be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a recommended duration for leaving a dog alone. Plan for the puppy stage, working days and backup care before the dog arrives.

Think about physical control as well. A harness or collar must fit securely, the lead should provide a reliable grip, and the person walking the dog must be able to hold it if something unexpected happens. This is not an argument for harsh methods; it is a practical consequence of the breed's strength. Planning ahead, creating distance and teaching alternative behaviours prevent more problems than corrections delivered too late.

Travel requires particular care. American Staffordshire Terriers and their crosses are prohibited in Norway, including import into the country. Denmark also prohibits the breed and its crosses from being brought in for a stay. Denmark has a limited exception for direct transit by car without unnecessary stops, but this does not permit a holiday in the country, and rail travel is not covered by the exception. Rules can change, so always check current guidance from Norway's Mattilsynet and the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration before booking a journey or choosing a route.

The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys structured training, can provide daily activity and has the capacity to manage a dog that is both sociable and physically demanding. If a household cannot make time for separation training, safe introductions, lead training and careful health follow-up, a less powerful or less demanding breed is often a better choice.

American Staffordshire Terrier

American Staffordshire Terrier: muscular, medium-sized, people-focused dog with a short, easy-care coat in many colors. Affectionate, energetic, and highly trainable with consistent, positive handling. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, socialization, and responsible management.

Saternus är en uppfödare av rasen American staffordshire terrier med bas i Våxtorp i Sverige.

Saternus

## Quick Facts

The Basset Bleu de Gascogne is first and foremost a scent hound, not a companion dog with a little hunting history. It is best suited to someone who wants to provide regular scent work and, ideally, hunting, and who can manage a strong drive to follow trails and a voice designed to carry.

- **Origin and status:** France; FCI breed number 35 in Group 6, subject to a working trial.
- **Work:** slow, methodical pursuit, chiefly of hare and rabbit. The breed may work alone or in a pack in its country of origin, but it hunts alone in Sweden because pack hunting is prohibited there.
- **Size:** 34–38 cm at the withers for both dogs and bitches. The FCI standard gives no weight.
- **Temperament in the standard:** active, agile, lively, affectionate and happy, with a very fine nose and a melodious hunting voice.
- **Coat:** short, dense and moderately coarse; black-and-white ticking creates the blue effect, with black patches and tan markings.
- **The key question for an owner:** do you want to live with and occupy an independent hunting dog even on days when no hunt is planned?

## Appearance & Coat

The Basset Bleu de Gascogne should be short-legged and substantial without becoming heavy or clumsy. The breed standard gives a ratio of height to body length of about 5:8, while the depth of chest is about two-thirds of the height at the withers. The back should be long but well supported, the chest roomy, and movement balanced and relatively easy.

The height range of 34–38 cm applies to both sexes. There is, however, no official weight range in the FCI standard. Do not judge an adult against a figure on the scales alone; consider body condition, proportions, muscle and whether the dog moves freely. The Swedish breeding strategy identifies excessive height as an ongoing issue following the historical introduction of larger Bleu breeds.

The forelegs should be strong. A slight turn is tolerated, but excessive torsion is a disqualifying fault. Watch the dog from the front while standing and moving: the feet should support the body steadily, the elbows should sit close, and the gait should not look painful or laboured. A long, soft topline, knuckling over or clearly unstable forelegs do not match the functional standard.

The fine leathers are set low, curl inwards and should reach beyond the tip of the nose. The tail is carried like a sabre and should just touch the ground at rest. The coat is fully ticked in black and white, creating a slate-blue overall effect, with larger or smaller black patches. Two black patches on the head, a white blaze and a small oval black spot in the centre are common. Tan appears above the eyes, on the cheeks and legs, and beneath the tail, among other places.

The short coat is easy to care for and bathing is only needed when required. The ears, feet and skin should still be checked after hunting or work in vegetation. Healthy ears do not normally need routine cleaning; cleaning too often can cause irritation. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or head shaking are reasons to contact a vet and follow advice tailored to that dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a happy, affectionate dog that is lively outdoors and able to work with other dogs. Its pack background and the Swedish breed description support an expectation of sociability with dogs, but this is not a guarantee for every individual or every meeting. Look at how the parents and close relatives recover after surprises, approach people and behave around other dogs.

Swedish BPH results cannot yet provide a reliable description of the breed’s temperament. When the 2024 breeding strategy was written, only one Basset Bleu de Gascogne had completed a BPH behaviour assessment including the gunshot element, whereas the Swedish Kennel Club produces a detailed breed analysis only after 200 dogs have been assessed. Such a small sample cannot show that the breed is invariably calm, easy-going, safe with children or suitable for a first-time owner.

The consistent trait is its hunting function: an excellent nose, a strong urge to follow a trail and a voice that carries over distance. A scent can compete strongly with the handler’s cues. This calls for safety routines and thoughtful training, rather than dismissing the dog as stubborn. A prospective owner must also be comfortable with the hunting voice and plan how vocal behaviour will be managed at home.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with any dog: an adult should be present and the dog must have a quiet resting place where it is left undisturbed. The breed may live successfully with other dogs in the household, but matching and introductions matter. Life with a cat cannot be promised for a dog with strong hunting drive. Prevent chasing from the outset, give the cat dog-free places of retreat and let contact develop in small, controlled steps.

## Training & Exercise

The Basset Bleu de Gascogne needs to use both body and nose, but there is no fixed time rule for the breed. Base activity on hunting or tracking, varied walks, recovery, body condition and how the dog moves the following day. An adult given only short walks around the block will not have an outlet for the work for which the breed was developed.

Reward-based training makes it easier to compete with scents. Teach engagement, walking with the handler, stopping and recall in simple settings first, then increase distractions gradually. A well-taught cue reduces risk but does not remove hunting drive. Use a lead or long line where an engrossing trail could take the dog towards traffic, wildlife or land where hunting is not permitted. Hunting trials and tracking trials can offer practical ways to assess and develop the breed’s working ability.

For a puppy, five minutes per month of age is not a scientific limit. Varied movement is needed for coordination and muscle development, while pace, surface and how the puppy feels that day must guide the load. Increase activity gradually, pause when the puppy slows and do not push it through fatigue or allow repeated hard landings and sudden turns. Young puppies can learn to use stairs under calm supervision; stairs should not become a place for uncontrolled rushing.

## Health

The Swedish population is too small for firm conclusions about the frequency of disease. The 2024 breeding strategy states both that few breed-related problems are known and that a handful of insurance claims can have a large effect on the figures. A list of isolated diagnoses must therefore not be read as the breed’s disease prevalence.

The insurance material for 2019–2023 included cherry eye, unspecified lameness, disc degeneration, joint pain and acute otitis externa. Some insurers gave no case count, and several diagnoses occurred only once or twice. These records justify asking about eyes, movement, back and ears within the family, but they do not prove that every Basset Bleu de Gascogne is at high risk.

The breed has no central health programme with the Swedish Kennel Club and is not marked as requiring known hip status or an eye examination in the registration rules effective from 1 January 2026. That does not mean anything is permitted. The Club’s general rules say that a dog graded HD E must not be bred from, HD D may be paired only with A or B, and a dog showing signs of hip dysplasia must not be bred from regardless of grade.

Ask to see original results whenever a breeder refers to voluntary tests, and ask which health problems have occurred in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Assess function too: unlaboured breathing, healthy eyes and ears, stable forelegs, a well-supported back and an easy gait carry more weight than an assurance that the breed is “usually healthy”. Keep the dog at a suitable body condition and seek veterinary advice for pain, lameness, a changed gait or recurring ear and eye problems.

The small population makes genetic diversity especially important. Current Swedish Basset Club recommendations include not repeating the same mating, aiming for a calculated coefficient of inbreeding no higher than 3 per cent for each litter, and limiting any one dog’s total offspring to no more than 25 per cent of the number registered in a typical year. These are breeding goals, not health guarantees or breed-specific registration requirements.

## History & Origins

The Basset Bleu de Gascogne is a French scent hound from Gascony, south of Bordeaux. The FCI describes the breed as having been revived at the end of the nineteenth century through the efforts of hunters in western France. The Swedish breeding strategy gives 1893 as its first known mention in French literature.

By the 1960s, the breed was close to disappearing. A reconstruction programme began in 1968 and used the Petit Bleu de Gascogne and Grand Bleu de Gascogne. This helped save the breed but also produced excessive height in some dogs, an issue still monitored in breeding. The FCI accepted the breed definitively in 1963, and the current official standard was published in 2023.

The breed was developed for slow pursuit and is used chiefly on hare and rabbit. In France it may work alone or in a pack; in Sweden it works alone. The first two dogs arrived in Sweden from the Netherlands in 1997. This documented history explains the breed’s form and work without resorting to claims of an unbroken ancient lineage.

## Living with the Breed

The Basset Bleu de Gascogne is best suited to a home that treats hunting and tracking drive as the core of the breed. If the plan is mainly for a quiet sofa dog, a dog that can be off lead everywhere or a dog that is seldom heard, other breeds are likely to fit better. If you want to work with scent, can provide safe ground and appreciate an active hound, you are more likely to be a good match.

Living in a flat is not automatically wrong, but how sound travels and how easily you can reach good walking and tracking ground decide whether it works. Barking and howling need training and management out of consideration for neighbours. A garden does not replace work, and any enclosure must be secure because a trail may matter more to the dog than the boundary.

The breed should not be described as innately prone to separation problems. The ability to stay alone varies between individuals and must be trained gradually. Begin with very brief separations when the dog feels safe and settled, increase them only when it can relax, and step back if it shows persistent distress. Plan daily life around the dog in front of you rather than a claimed number of hours.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show you:

- how the parents and close relatives work, use their voices and recover after hunting;
- known veterinary diagnoses and original results from any voluntary examinations;
- the pedigree, calculated coefficient of inbreeding and how the mating supports genetic diversity;
- the parents’ height, foreleg alignment, back stability and movement;
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, different environments, people and dogs.

This provides a better basis for a decision than general promises about children, cats, health or easy training. For the Basset Bleu de Gascogne, an honest account of hunting function, the small population and the individual household’s routine matters more than a long list of breed labels.

Basset Bleu de Gascogne

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

French scent hound with blue‑mottled coat, long low body and deep baying voice. Calm, affectionate and gentle at home; energetic, determined and scent‑driven outdoors. Generally sociable with dogs and families. Needs regular exercise, kind training, ear care and secure fencing.

Chestnut Bleu är en uppfödare av rasen Basset Bleu de Gascogne med bas i Eslöv i Sverige.

Chestnut Bleu

Polish Lowland Sheepdog

The Polish Lowland Sheepdog (Polski Owczarek Nizinny) is a medium, sturdy herding dog with a long, dense, often eye-covering coat. Intelligent and independent, it excels in herding and dog sports, bonds closely with family, needs regular grooming, mental work, and moderate daily exercise.

Pontastic är en uppfödare av raserna Polski owczarek nizinny och Biewer terrier med bas i Gullaskruv i Sverige. Uppfödningen av polski owczarek nizinny går tillbaka till 2018 och omfattar även biewer terrier sedan 2023.

Pontastic

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Karelian Bear Dog

Nordic Kennel Union

Dansk Kennel Klub

The Finnish Kennel Club

Svenska Kennelklubben

The Karelian Bear Dog is a medium, powerful Nordic spitz bred to track and hold large game. Loyal and often one-person oriented, it is brave, vocal, and naturally watchful. It needs extensive daily exercise, mental work, and consistent, calm training to thrive as an active companion.

China Garden är en uppfödare av raserna Pomeranian, Karelsk björnhund och Biewer terrier med bas i Enskede i Sverige.

China Garden

Phalène

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

Verein für Deutsche Spitze und Phalène

The Kennel Club UK

The Phalène is a small, elegant toy spaniel with drop ears, a long silky coat, and a white body marked in various colors. Lively yet sensitive and people‑oriented, it is highly trainable, enjoys dog sports, moderate daily exercise, and close companionship.

Putterflies är en uppfödare av rasen Phalène med bas i Vinslöv i Sverige.

Putterflies

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Softy Österlen är en uppfödare av rasen Irish softcoated wheaten terrier med bas i Simrishamn i Sverige. Verksamheten inleddes efter att den första wheaten terriern kom 2001.

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