## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Heima Poulsen

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Susanna Gomez-Sanchez

Australian Terrier

Australian Terrier Club of Great Britain

The Australian Terrier is a small, sturdy working terrier with a harsh, weatherproof coat and soft topknot. Bred in Australia as a vermin controller and companion, it is confident, lively, people‑oriented, a devoted watchdog, needing moderate exercise and regular, simple grooming.

Tove Ring

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Lapinlumon

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Pinscher is a small, active and self-assured companion dog that needs far more consistent training and guidance than its size might suggest.

- The breed comes from Germany and is a breed in its own right, not a scaled-down Dobermann.
- Under the breed standard, an adult Miniature Pinscher should stand 25–30 cm and weigh 4–6 kg.
- The coat is short, smooth and easy to care for. The colours recognised in the Swedish breed standard are shades of red and black with red or rust-coloured tan markings.
- The Miniature Pinscher is lively, quick to learn and alert. Its watchdog instinct may show as barking at noises and visitors.
- Daily walks need to be combined with scent work, play, problem-solving or another form of mental activity.
- Swedish breeding work focuses particularly on kneecaps, eyes and dental health.
- The breed can live successfully in a flat and with a family, provided there is room in daily life for activity, training around everyday noises, gradual training for time alone and gentle handling.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Pinscher is compact and elegant but should look neither fragile nor exaggeratedly small. Its body should be as square as possible, with height and length roughly equal, and the short coat makes its outline easy to see. Dogs and bitches have the same standard measurements: a height of 25–30 cm at the withers and a weight of 4–6 kg.

The breed has dark, oval eyes and either erect ears or V-shaped ears that fold forwards. The tail is natural. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.

The breed standard calls for harmonious, free, ground-covering movement with a firm back. The high, exaggerated front action sometimes called a hackney gait is therefore not the ideal under the Swedish standard; it is specifically listed as a fault.

The coat should be short, dense, smooth and glossy. It normally needs no more than an occasional once-over with a soft brush or grooming mitt, plus a bath when the dog is dirty. Use the same opportunity to check the nails, skin, ears and teeth so that small changes are noticed early.

The Swedish and international FCI standards recognise two colour varieties:

- solid deer red, reddish-brown or dark red-brown
- jet black with clearly defined red or rust-coloured tan markings

Brown, blue and other so-called special colours are not included in the Swedish FCI standard. If a puppy is advertised in an unusual colour, it is sensible to ask which country’s standard the breeder is referring to.

Because the Miniature Pinscher is both small and short-coated, it may need help keeping warm in Swedish winter weather. Adjust the length of the walk to the individual dog, keep it moving and use a well-fitting coat in cold weather if it becomes tense, lifts its paws, shivers or seeks warmth. Not every dog needs a coat at the same temperature.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Pinscher is typically lively, spirited, self-assured and alert. It often wants to stay close to its family, learns quickly and notices small changes around it. These qualities can make the breed both enjoyable to train and demanding to live with: a dog that quickly discovers the right reward will also soon learn which noises, doors and movements make people react.

Its watchdog instinct should be taken seriously without being encouraged. A Miniature Pinscher may announce someone’s arrival, but in a home with neighbours the aim should be for the dog to register a noise and then settle again. Start early with calm practice around the doorbell, visitors and sounds in communal hallways. Reward quiet behaviour before barking has developed into a long sequence.

Swedish behaviour assessments give a more nuanced picture than labels such as ‘tough’ or ‘stubborn’. Results from BPH, Sweden’s Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, show curiosity, interest in food and interest in the dog’s own toy among the assessed population. Many of those dogs were less interested in greeting or playing with strangers than with people they knew. The results apply to the dogs that took part, not to every Miniature Pinscher. When choosing a puppy, the everyday behaviour of its parents and close relatives matters more than a general breed description.

Fear, aggression or constant stress should not be dismissed as the breed being a ‘big dog in a small body’. A sound Miniature Pinscher may have clear personal boundaries and be reserved, but it should be able to recover and cope with everyday life.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Pinscher needs physical exercise and mental tasks every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, pace, terrain and what the dog gets to do matter more than a number. A relaxed sniffing walk, a few short training sessions and some play can offer more than an equally long but stressful outing with no chance to explore.

A good routine combines:

- walks that allow the dog to sniff and move through varied surroundings
- short sessions on engagement, walking with you, recall and lead manners
- scent games, problem-solving or tricks
- play with a clear beginning and end
- undisturbed rest and practice in settling down

Train kindly and consistently. Short sessions, clear tasks and rewards the dog genuinely values usually work better than nagging or harsh corrections. Build recall step by step on a long line, moving to more difficult surroundings only when the dog succeeds somewhere calm. Use a lead wherever traffic, open doors or a lack of fencing could turn one quick mistake into an accident.

Get the puppy used to nail trimming, mouth and tooth checks, a harness, a coat and being lifted safely. Include calm-time practice too. A dog that is given more fast-paced activity whenever it becomes overexcited does not automatically learn how to switch off.

## Health

The Miniature Pinscher is described as a relatively healthy breed, but puppy buyers in Sweden should pay particular attention to kneecaps, eyes and teeth. These are the priorities in the Swedish breed club’s breeding strategy adopted in 2025.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position and may cause pain or lameness. The breed club recommends an official patellar examination, recorded as clear, for breeding dogs over twelve months old. Ask to see the result for both parents and check that it has been registered rather than relying on a verbal assurance.

An eye examination is recommended before breeding. The dog should be at least one year old at its first examination, and the result should ideally be no more than three years old at the time of mating. A finding must be assessed against the veterinary breeding advice, so ‘examined’ does not automatically mean ‘no findings’.

Dental health is a clear area for improvement. In the breed club’s health survey of 298 anonymous responses, 33 per cent reported tartar problems and 14 per cent reported periodontitis. Because these figures are based on owners’ own reports, they do not show how common the problems are across the whole breed. They do, however, show why dental care should not be treated as an afterthought. Brush the teeth, preferably every day, and introduce handling gradually. During the change of teeth at around five to six months, check that retained deciduous teeth are not affecting the adult bite.

Ask the breeder about health and longevity among close relatives, the family’s dental health, and whether the parents have completed BPH or MH, the Swedish mental assessment. No examination can guarantee a problem-free dog, but documented results make risk easier to judge.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Pinscher is a German pinscher breed with a history as a ratter and watchdog, not a smaller version of the Dobermann. Similarities in outline and black-and-red colouring have caused the misunderstanding, but the breed standard describes the Miniature Pinscher as a miniaturised image of the German Pinscher.

Small, smooth-coated pinscher types have deep roots in Germany. The organised development of the breed as we know it gathered pace in the 1870s, and the German pinscher club was founded in 1895. Miniature Pinschers were already numerous around 1900; the German stud book recorded about 1,300 individuals in 1925.

The first documented import to Sweden arrived in 1905. The breed is now chiefly a companion dog, but its history can still be seen in its vigilance, speed and readiness to investigate small movements in its surroundings.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Pinscher can live well in either a flat or a house, but its small size does not make daily life effortless. In a flat, training around noise, planned activity and the ability to settle are especially important. A garden may make toilet breaks easier, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different surroundings or time with the owner.

Being left alone is a trained skill and varies between individuals. A young puppy should not be left alone. Start only when the puppy feels secure in its new home, leave for a very short time and extend the period when it remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually may cope with a few hours, but a full working day away from home requires another arrangement. Take the training back a step if the dog barks, howls, paces or shows other signs of distress.

The breed can be a good family dog when an adult guides interactions with children. A Miniature Pinscher is small enough to be hurt if it is dropped, stepped on or lifted incorrectly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs its own resting place where it will be left undisturbed. The child’s age matters less than the family’s ability to respect the dog’s signals.

Introductions to other dogs should be calm and controlled. Living with a cat depends on the individuals and the way they are introduced. Particular care is needed around rodents, birds and other very small animals because the breed’s background as a ratter remains relevant; do not leave them together without secure separation.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond the advert. Ask for registered patella and eye results, enquire about dental health and BPH or MH, and, if possible, meet the mother and other adult relatives. Ask the breeder how their dogs respond to visitors, noises and handling, and how readily they settle again. The best match is not necessarily the puppy that looks boldest for five minutes, but the one with a good chance of thriving in the life you can offer.

Miniature Pinscher

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

The Miniature Pinscher is a small, square-built, muscular toy breed with a short, sleek, low-shedding coat and high-stepping gait. Energetic, bold, and alert, it’s an affectionate yet independent companion and effective little watchdog, thriving with active, engaged owners.

Per Ivar Aasdalen

## Quick Facts

The Boxer is a sociable, energetic and physically powerful working breed that thrives when it can play an active part in family life. It suits someone who wants to devote time to shared exercise, training and play every day, and who enjoys an expressive dog with a strong desire for company and plenty of initiative.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Role:** Working, companion and guard dog
- **Size:** males 57–63 cm and around 30 kg; females 53–59 cm and around 25 kg
- **Coat:** very short, fawn or brindle with a black mask; white markings may occur
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for both physical exercise and purposeful tasks
- **Lifespan:** roughly 9–11 years is a broad guide

The important question is not whether you like the Boxer's appearance, but whether you want to live with a lively, powerful dog that needs guidance. In an active household, a Boxer can be a close, playful and willing companion. It is less suitable for someone looking for a low-energy, independent dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Boxer is a medium-sized, compact dog with a square outline, strong bone and clearly defined muscles. It should look athletic without appearing heavy or cumbersome. The distinctive head has a broad muzzle, a black mask and a natural undershot bite. The muzzle is short, but its proportions should be balanced and the nostrils open; an extremely short muzzle is not the aim.

Males usually stand 57–63 cm at the withers and weigh around 30 kg. Females stand 53–59 cm and weigh around 25 kg. That is enough dog for pulling on the lead, jumping up and unruly greetings to become difficult to manage if training is postponed.

The coat is short, hard, glossy and close-fitting. The base colour is fawn in various shades or brindle, always with a black mask. Small white markings may be present. Entirely or predominantly white dogs do occur, but white is not an accepted colour under the breed standard. When choosing a dog, health and temperament matter more than its markings.

Coat care is straightforward. Brush during periods of heavier shedding, bathe when needed and wipe the paws after wet walks. The short coat makes the skin easy to inspect, so check for redness, itching, sores and new lumps. Examine the ears, nails and teeth regularly too. Nails should be trimmed when they grow too long, and persistent skin or ear problems should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Boxer is sociable, alert, curious and playful. It seeks contact and likes to be wherever the family is, while retaining the watchfulness and confidence of a working dog. Many keep a youthful, physical style of play well into adulthood.

A Boxer can fit very well into an active family with children, but “good with children” is never a guarantee for an individual dog. The breed is strong, quick and often exuberant when excited. Small children can be knocked over accidentally, and play between a dog and a child should always be supervised by an adult. Teach calm greetings, settling on a bed or mat and ending a game from an early age.

Relationships with other dogs vary. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that aggression towards other dogs occurs within the breed, and encounters with other dogs are an everyday challenge for some Boxer owners. This does not mean that Boxers are generally unsociable. It does mean that controlled social training, lead handling and the ability to disengage from other dogs deserve serious attention. Match playmates to the individual and its style of play; a Boxer's physical play may be too intense for small or cautious dogs.

Some Boxers are open with strangers, while others are more reserved. Early, thoughtful socialisation gives the dog experience of people, places, surfaces and everyday sounds without turning every encounter into a greeting. The aim is a confident dog that can remain neutral when the situation calls for it.

## Training & Exercise

A Boxer needs to move and use its brain every day. Short toilet walks alone are not enough for a healthy adult, but the same time target will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, temperature, breathing and health should determine the workload. A good week includes a mix of walks in varied surroundings, free movement in a secure area, play and tasks such as tracking, search work, obedience or other dog sports.

Use reward-based methods. Reward the behaviour you want to see more often with food, play or social contact, and set up each exercise so the dog can succeed. Harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary. Short, focused sessions often suit a lively dog, but variety and a clear daily routine matter most.

Prioritise the skills that make a powerful dog easy to live with:

- walking on a loose lead
- returning when called and stopping play when asked
- passing dogs and people while paying attention to the handler
- greeting with all four paws on the ground
- leaving items and waiting at doors
- switching from activity to rest in a designated place

Lead walking, recall, encounters with other dogs and exuberant greetings were recurring challenges in the Swedish Boxer Club's 2025 owner survey. A puppy or adolescent training class can therefore provide useful help early on. Adapt exercise while the dog is growing and increase duration and intensity gradually instead of immediately taking a young dog running or cycling.

## Health

When choosing a Boxer and breeder, examine the health background carefully. Conditions found in the breed include hip dysplasia, spondylosis, renal dysplasia, knee problems in older dogs, and skin disease and allergies. Heart disease and tumours are also important areas in the breed's health programme. A Swedish study of insured dogs also found a markedly increased risk of mast cell tumours in Boxers.

The Boxer is short-muzzled, but not every Boxer has brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS. Even so, obvious breathing noise, laboured breathing, poor recovery or heat intolerance should not be dismissed as normal for the breed. The Boxer is included in special show guidance that draws attention to breathing, muzzle length and skin. Since May 2026, Boxers in Sweden have also been eligible for the standardised RFG-S breathing assessment. The test can provide more information about a dog's breathing, but it is not a general mandatory breeding requirement for the Boxer.

Ask a breeder to explain the results rather than simply saying that the parents have been “tested”:

- Check the parents' official hip dysplasia results and ask about the planned litter's HD index. The Swedish Boxer Club's strategy cites the Swedish Kennel Club recommendation that the estimated litter index should exceed 100.
- Review the parents' MH temperament assessment results and ask how close relatives behave in everyday life.
- Ask for a heart examination. The breed club recommends auscultation by a specialist or Doppler/ultrasound for both parents.
- Ask for spondylosis radiographs taken after 24 months of age, as recommended by the breed club.
- Ask whether RFG-S has been completed, and listen to the dogs' breathing yourself at rest and after light activity.
- Ask the breeder about cancer, kidney disease, skin problems, knees and longevity among close relatives.

Keep the dog lean and build fitness gradually. Seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, unusually increased thirst or urination, new or changing lumps, or clear breathing difficulty. Early checks cannot remove genetic risk, but they improve the chance of finding a problem promptly.

## History & Origins

The Boxer was developed in Germany from local dog types during the nineteenth century. Its closest documented ancestor is the Brabanter Bullenbeisser, a German bulldog type that worked with hunters. Its task was to seize and hold game driven towards it until the hunter arrived, which explains the importance of the broad muzzle and powerful jaws.

The modern Boxer became a versatile working, guard and companion dog. The first breed standard was published in 1902. The origin of the name Boxer has not been established with certainty, so the idea that it comes from the dog's use of its front paws in play should be treated as a story rather than documented fact.

The breed's background can still be seen in its enthusiasm for work, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate. A modern Boxer does not have to train in a particular discipline, but it benefits from regularly solving tasks alongside its handler.

## Living with the Breed

A Boxer can live in a flat, a terraced house or a detached house; the daily plan matters more than the amount of floor space. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, training and experience of different surroundings. Indoors, the dog needs to learn how to settle. Otherwise, the family may find themselves living with a large, highly aroused dog that continually invents its own activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that some Boxers struggle to be left alone, so arrange a dog sitter or other help if working days are long. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings. Six hours is the interval in that guidance, not an assurance that every Boxer is comfortable being alone for that long.

Plan around the weather too. The Boxer's short coat provides limited protection in cold conditions, while the short muzzle calls for extra care in heat. Dogs affected by BOAS may find it harder to regulate their body temperature. Schedule more strenuous activity for cooler parts of a hot day, provide water and shade, and stop if breathing or recovery differs from normal. In cold weather, watch how the dog moves, whether its coat is wet and whether it shows discomfort when deciding if a coat is needed.

The Boxer is best suited to a family that can answer yes to four questions: Do we want to give the dog purposeful activity every day? Can we teach calm behaviour and everyday manners consistently? Do we have a sustainable plan for time alone? Are we prepared to examine health and breathing as carefully as temperament and appearance? If the answer is yes, the breed's energy, humour and strong desire for contact can become its greatest strengths in daily life.

Boxer

The Boxer Club UK

Boxer Klub e.V. Germany

Svenska Boxerklubben (Swedish Boxer Club)

The Boxer is a medium‑large, athletic dog with a short coat and expressive, broad head. Lively, playful, and people‑oriented, it bonds closely with families and is often gentle with children. Energetic and protective, it needs consistent training, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Jiao-Jiao's

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Linton Jack's

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Madam Gautier

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Falkøen

## Quick Facts

The Affenpinscher is a small German companion dog with keen alertness, a mind of its own and a strong attachment to its people. It is best suited to someone who wants an active everyday companion in a small package and appreciates humour and initiative, while being able to train calmly and consistently.

- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** Group 2, Pinscher and Schnauzer, Molossoid, Mountain and Swiss Cattle Dogs
- **Purpose:** companion dog
- **Height at the withers:** 25–30 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** approximately 4–6 kg
- **Build:** compact and as square as possible
- **Coat:** hard and dense; longer, harsh hair forms the eyebrows, beard and characteristic frame around the head
- **Colour in the Swedish FCI standard:** pure black with a black undercoat

Its size makes the Affenpinscher easy to take along, but this is not a passive lapdog. It needs walks, scent work, learning and opportunities to take part in family life. Puppies and young dogs can be particularly lively.

## Appearance & Coat

The Affenpinscher should be small, wire-haired and compact, with the facial expression that gave the breed its name. The dark, fairly round eyes, projecting lower jaw and harsh facial furnishings create its so-called monkey-like expression. Body length should be roughly equal to height at the withers.

The short muzzle should be straight rather than turned up, and the nostrils should be well open. An extremely flattened face is therefore not the goal. The lower jaw projects beyond the upper jaw, but the canine teeth, incisors and tongue should not show when the mouth is closed.

The Swedish FCI standard specifies a pure black coat with a black undercoat. Historical descriptions mention several colours, and an occasional puppy may still be born in another colour, but that does not change the colour specified by the current standard.

The coat is relatively straightforward to care for but does need trimming, usually a few times a year. Mature coat is then removed to retain the harsh texture and outline. Between trims, comb through the coat as needed, paying particular attention to the beard, leg furnishings and other areas where tangles can form. Check that the harsh hair around the eyes is not causing irritation.

Coat type does not make an Affenpinscher allergy-free. There are no allergy-free dog breeds, and dog allergens occur mainly in the skin and saliva. Anyone with an allergy therefore needs to assess the individual dog and their own reaction rather than relying on coat type alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Affenpinscher is typically affectionate, alert, courageous and stubborn. It often wants to be close to its family and quickly notices changes in its surroundings. It may be reserved with strangers. Let the dog approach at its own pace instead of forcing a greeting.

Its alert nature may show as barking when somebody arrives, when there are sounds outside the front door or when something unexpected happens. The amount of barking varies, and nobody can promise a silent Affenpinscher. Reward calm behaviour, teach a clear alternative to continued alarm barking and arrange the home so the dog does not feel it must constantly watch the windows or door.

The breed standard describes the desired temperament. In the published breed-specific breeding strategy for 2021–2026, however, too few Swedish Affenpinschers had completed the Swedish BPH or MH behavioural assessments to provide a reliable picture of the breed's temperament. Claims that every dog is fearless, highly sociable or especially vocal therefore go beyond the evidence presented. When choosing a puppy, the parents' everyday behaviour is more useful than sweeping promises about the breed.

Relationships with other dogs depend on the individual, experience and introductions. The breed can be self-assured in encounters and needs to learn to pass and socialise without pushing into another dog's space. Its historical work against rats and mice also means that it should not be assumed safe to run loose with small pets. If there is already a cat in the home, calm introductions, safe escape routes and supervision are needed; breed history cannot predict how an individual dog will react.

## Training & Exercise

An Affenpinscher needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but there is no single exact number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and training to age, health, weather and the individual. What matters is a varied routine in which the dog can move, explore and use its brain.

Nosework, human-scent tracking, search exercises and rally obedience can suit the breed's curiosity and willingness to work. An ordinary walk becomes more rewarding when the dog is sometimes allowed to follow scents, find placed objects or solve a simple task. Safe balance and body-awareness exercises are also useful, rather than carrying the dog past everything it can confidently negotiate by itself.

Use rewards and increase the difficulty gradually. Short, varied sessions tend to be more successful than many monotonous repetitions. Put particular effort into recall, attention and the ability to disengage from something interesting, but never treat recall as a guarantee near traffic or small animals.

Alertness and independence are easier to manage when the dog practises everyday situations early: visitors, door sounds, encounters with other dogs, handling and settling while activity continues nearby. Harsh corrections can create conflict or insecurity and are not needed to set clear boundaries.

## Health

The Affenpinscher is described as a relatively healthy breed, but the small Swedish population makes firm conclusions about prevalence difficult. A careful puppy buyer should therefore examine both official results and the health of parents, siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on the general statement that the breed is healthy.

Breathing is a current area of monitoring. The Affenpinscher has a short muzzle, but the standard requires well-open nostrils. Since May 2026, BOAS grades obtained through RFG-Scheme can be centrally recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club for this breed. The examination assesses the dog's breathing before and after a short exercise test. Central recording does not currently mean that the examination is mandatory before breeding. Even so, ask about the parents' breathing, stamina, recovery and any RFG grades. Obvious breathing noise, laboured breathing, bluish mucous membranes, fainting or marked intolerance of heat should not be dismissed as normal for the breed.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of position, is another monitored area. The current breed-specific breeding strategy presents older, limited evidence: of 90 dogs with a recorded patella examination in Swedish Kennel Club data from 2011 to 2018, five had a finding, while 19 of 172 respondents in a separate owner survey reported patellar luxation. These figures are not a current measure of risk for each puppy, but they provide good reason to ask about official patella results and knee problems in the family.

The breeding strategy also highlights whelping difficulties and puppies dying before registration as important breeding concerns. The evidence is not current enough to give a reliable frequency. Ask how the dam and her close female relatives have whelped, whether Caesarean sections have been needed and how previous litters developed. Ask the breeder to explain how the planned mating contributes to genetic diversity in this small population.

Start a dental-care routine in puppyhood, and ask a vet to assess lameness, recurring airway noise, eye irritation or other symptoms. A list of possible diagnoses can never replace an examination of the individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Affenpinscher is an old German breed developed from the wire-haired Pinscher. Dogs of a similar type appear in older European art, and the breed was first registered in Germany in 1879. Around the beginning of the twentieth century, it was a popular toy dog.

It was kept as a companion in southern Germany, but sources also describe a small farm watchdog that alerted to strangers and killed rats and mice. That background helps to explain the breed's vigilance, quick reactions and interest in searching and problem-solving, but it does not determine the behaviour of every modern dog.

The breed appeared in Sweden in small numbers at different points during the twentieth century without establishing a lasting population. Two dogs were imported from Germany in 1986, and that reintroduction enabled the breed to become established in the country again.

## Living with the Breed

An Affenpinscher can live well in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than whether the dog receives walks, activity, rest and companionship. In a flat where sound carries easily, however, owners need to allow for the breed's alert nature and practise calm responses to noises outside the front door before barking becomes a habit.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short, uneventful absences and extend them only when the dog can remain calm. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also differ markedly in what they can cope with. The breed is strongly family-oriented, so plan around the dog you actually have rather than a promised number of hours.

Around children, the dog's small body makes gentle handling especially important. Young children and a dog should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Children should not carry the dog, disturb it while it is eating or sleeping, or hold it still for a cuddle. Life in a considerate family can work well, but adults remain wholly responsible for both the dog's needs and the children's safety.

Before buying a puppy, meet at least the dam, observe how the dogs breathe and move, and ask about temperament, patella results, RFG grades, teeth, eyes, whelping and previous offspring. Ask for specific answers and verifiable results where these exist. The Affenpinscher is best suited to a home that does not mistake small size for modest needs: it wants to join in, think, move and be taken seriously.

Affenpinscher

British Kennel Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Club für Affenpinscher

Svenska Kennelklubben

Société Centrale Canine

The Affenpinscher is a small, sturdy German toy breed with a rough, low‑shedding coat and a monkey‑like face. Once a fearless ratter, it’s now a lively companion: alert watchdog, playful and affectionate yet independent, needing patient training, regular grooming, and daily mental and physical activity.

Skäggpatrullen

Amazing Shirley

Little Lulu’s Jrt

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Mina Mirakel's

## Quick Facts

The Coton de Tulear is a small, recognised companion breed from Madagascar. It is best suited to someone who wants a sociable, active dog at the heart of family life and is also prepared for substantial coat care. Its small size does not make ownership effortless: the coat needs daily attention, and the dog still needs exercise, training and a gradual introduction to being left alone.

- **Breed type:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Origin:** Madagascar, with France responsible for the breed standard
- **Height at the withers:** 26–28 cm for males and 23–25 cm for females
- **Weight:** 4–6 kg for males and 3.5–5 kg for females
- **Coat:** long, dense, soft and cotton-like, with white as the ground colour
- **Breed ideal:** cheerful, steady, sociable and willing to cooperate
- **Biggest daily commitment:** grooming the coat thoroughly every day

A Coton de Tulear can be a good choice for a first-time owner, but only if there is already time in the daily routine for grooming, training and company. Those practical demands matter more than the assumption that a small companion dog will automatically be easy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Coton de Tulear's defining feature is its soft, profuse coat with a cotton-like texture. It must not be harsh or rough and may be slightly wavy. The body is somewhat longer than it is tall, while dark, rounded eyes help to create the breed's lively expression.

White is the ground colour. Slight traces of light grey or red roan are permitted on the ears. Similar shading may be tolerated elsewhere if the overall impression remains white, although it is not sought after in the breed standard. A puppy's coloured markings may change as the coat develops, but the standard provides neither a timetable nor a guarantee for the colour of an individual adult dog.

A long coat needs brushing and combing every day. Work through the full depth of the coat from the skin outwards; quickly brushing the surface can leave mats underneath. The Swedish Kennel Club describes bathing every two to four weeks as typical, although the actual need depends on coat length, weather and how dirty the dog becomes. Calm grooming practice should begin in puppyhood so that the dog learns to stand and be handled without distress.

A companion dog that will not be shown in a full show coat may be kept in a shorter trim to make everyday care more manageable. A shorter style does not remove the need for regular combing and skin checks, but it can reduce the workload. Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat care before you buy, and consider how you will manage it through wet and muddy weather as well as on dry days.

The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic. The amount of visible hair a dog leaves behind does not reveal how much allergen it spreads, and there can be considerable variation between individual dogs. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not treat the breed name or the fact that a dog appears to shed very little as a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Coton de Tulear as cheerful, steady and highly sociable with people and other dogs. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes it as active and cooperative, and keen to join its owner in different activities. This is the breed ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy shows why that distinction matters. Older survey responses mentioned barking, aggression towards other dogs and fear of gunfire, but later material could not establish clearly how common these behaviours were. The evidence was limited by a low response rate and a small number of behaviour assessments. It would therefore be misleading to promise that the breed is invariably quiet, fearless or straightforward.

Instead, ask how the puppy's parents respond to unfamiliar people, encounters with other dogs, unexpected sounds and short periods without their owner. If possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary home setting. The parents' behaviour, the puppy's early experiences and your continuing training tell you more about that particular dog than labels such as “perfect family dog”.

## Training & Exercise

A Coton de Tulear needs daily walks, opportunities to move freely in safe places and activities that engage its mind. There is no official daily time target that suits every dog. Adjust duration and pace to the individual's age, health, fitness and recovery instead.

The breed may enjoy everyday obedience, scent work, tracking, rally obedience and agility. Short training sessions can form part of a walk: attention, recall, self-control and settling calmly are more useful than simply raising the intensity. Vary the surroundings and tasks, but also provide undisturbed rest.

Give three skills particular attention from the start: accepting thorough coat care, remaining calm when there is activity outside the front door and spending short periods alone without becoming distressed. Build up time alone gradually from very brief, secure experiences. Increase it only while the dog remains relaxed; a fixed timetable will not suit every puppy.

## Health

The clearest documented health concerns for the Coton de Tulear in Sweden are the eye disease PRA and patellar luxation. PRA is a group of inherited diseases in which the retina gradually deteriorates and sight may eventually be lost. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; some dogs show no signs, while others experience lameness or pain.

The breed's Swedish breeding strategy provides an important but limited figure for patellar luxation. Of 156 recorded patella examinations between 2014 and 2021, 16.7 per cent showed some degree of luxation. However, only 21.8 per cent of the dogs registered during that period had been examined. The figure describes the examined sample and must not be treated as a reliable prevalence estimate for the whole breed.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination and that the certificate be no more than 18 months old at the time of mating. It also recommends another eye examination at about seven years of age, as well as a patella examination before mating, carried out no earlier than twelve months of age. These are breeding recommendations, so do not assume that every litter automatically meets them.

Ask to see the official results for both parents and check the examination dates. Also ask about eye, knee and behavioural problems among close relatives, not just the two parents. A test result reduces uncertainty about one particular issue but cannot guarantee a completely healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The reliably documented history is shorter than many of the colourful stories told about the breed. The Coton de Tulear comes from Madagascar, and “coton” in its name refers to the cotton-like coat. The breed was introduced to France before official recognition and was definitively recognised by the FCI in 1970. France is responsible for the standard, while Madagascar remains the stated country of origin.

The first Coton de Tulear registered in Sweden was imported from the Netherlands in 1991. Since then, the breed has become established there as a companion dog and also takes part in several dog sports.

Stories involving shipwrecks, pirates, royal status and laws barring ordinary people from owning the breed appear frequently online. The official breed documents do not provide enough evidence to present them as established history. They are better regarded as breed legends, not as an explanation of present-day dogs.

## Living with the Breed

A Coton de Tulear can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives daily activity, company and undisturbed rest. The size of the home matters less than the shape of the daily routine. Sounds in a communal hallway may nevertheless make training the dog to settle especially useful if it tends to bark in response.

The same safety principles apply with children as with any dog: an adult should be present whenever young children and the dog are together, and the dog needs a private resting place. Because this is a small breed, children must learn not to carry, crowd or handle the dog roughly.

The breed ideal is sociable with other dogs, but good relationships still depend on controlled introductions and positive experiences. There is not enough evidence to promise that every Coton de Tulear will live well with cats or other small animals. Introduce animals calmly, prevent chasing and make sure that each has somewhere to retreat.

Plan for time alone before the puppy comes home. Dogs need a gradual introduction to being left, and Swedish animal welfare guidance says that they should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent trips outside. A full working day with no arranged break, exercise or social contact is therefore not a sustainable solution.

Before buying, focus on concrete questions. Can you care for the coat every day? Can the breeder show you current eye and patella results? How do the parents cope with noise, encounters with dogs and being left? What experience have the puppies had of handling and normal daily environments? Clear answers to these questions give a better indication of a good match than promises that the breed suits everyone.

Coton de Tulear

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Small, sturdy companion from Madagascar, the Coton de Tulear has a long, white, cotton‑soft coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, sensitive and very people focused, it bonds closely, suits apartments, needs moderate exercise and kind training, and is generally long lived but prone to some joint, eye and skin issues.

Sikolima's

## Quick Facts

The Basset Artésien Normand is a short-legged French scent hound for someone who genuinely intends to hunt with their dog. In Sweden, the breed is used on deer, roe deer, hare and fox, and occasionally rabbit. It follows a trail carefully, drives game at a measured but purposeful pace and uses its voice while working. The Swedish Kennel Club stresses that the breed is not suitable solely as a companion.

- **Purpose:** slow-driving scent hound and tracking dog
- **Breed group:** Group 6, scent hounds and related breeds
- **Origin:** France
- **Size:** 30–36 cm at the withers and usually 15–20 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close-fitting; tricolour or bicolour
- **Temperament:** outgoing, cheerful and very affectionate, yet independent when searching
- **Most important consideration:** an interest in hunting, safe handling away from the hunt and a willingness to enter working trials matter more than the size of the home

The breed can be a close family member alongside its hunting work, but family life does not replace the job it was bred to do. The clearest question before buying one is therefore not whether the dog looks conveniently small, but whether everyday life will include the hunting and training the breed needs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Basset Artésien Normand is low to the ground but not slight: its body is robust, balanced and long in relation to its height. The breed standard gives an approximate ratio of five parts height at the withers to eight parts body length. The chest should be oval and long, with a sternum extending well back. Despite the short legs, the construction must allow free, even movement.

The forelegs are short, strong and half-crooked, or slightly less bent. The curve is part of breed type, but it must not become an exaggeration that compromises contact with the ground. The feet should stand firmly with good support, and movement should be even, fairly effortless and steady. For a working hound, this matters more than an excessively heavy body or an extremely low front.

The head has low-set, fine and very long ears. The nostrils should be well open. The short coat lies close and is either fawn and white with a black mantle, or fawn and white. It needs little work, and the dog is bathed when necessary. Keep an eye on the ears because ear problems are documented in the breed. Recurring problems should be assessed by a vet, and care should be tailored to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The Basset Artésien Normand should be outgoing and very affectionate. It generally wants to be close to its family and works with the hunter, but that partnership does not mean waiting for an instruction at every step. When searching, the hound needs to make its own decisions, follow scent and work with stamina.

This makes the breed both sociable and independent. Affection at home does not make the hunting drive disappear outdoors, and independence does not mean the dog is impossible to train. A good handler develops engagement and clear habits without trying to remove the quality for which the hound was bred.

Claims that the breed is always good with children, always accepts cats or automatically gets on with every dog are too definite. Individuals, previous experiences and introductions all matter. The breed's characteristically friendly nature is a good starting point, but every relationship still needs to be built and monitored.

## Training & Exercise

The Basset Artésien Normand needs hunting work, not simply a set daily walk length. When driving game, the hound uses its nose independently, moves through dense cover and follows persistently without going fast. In Sweden, the breed works on deer, roe deer, hare and fox, among other quarry. The international standard also describes rabbit as typical quarry.

Working trials provide a practical way to assess driving work, cooperation and other qualities needed in breeding. A prospective owner should therefore ask how the parents work, what trial results they have and what help the breeder offers with introducing the young hound to hunting and entering trials. Tracking exercises and other scent work can complement training, but they should not be used to justify buying the breed without a plan for its main job.

Everyday training works best with rewards, short clear exercises and consistent routines. Prioritise engagement, walking on a lead, a stop cue and recall from an early age. A well-trained recall reduces risk but does not cancel the hunting instinct of a driving hound. Away from controlled hunting, off-lead freedom should therefore be supervised and limited to secure surroundings; a lead or long line is often the responsible choice where game may appear.

Exercise should reflect the dog's age, fitness, terrain and workload. No single number of minutes suits every individual. Instead, consider whether the dog maintains a healthy weight, moves freely, recovers normally and can settle at home.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as having few health problems, while also identifying ear and throat conditions and hunting-associated pulmonary oedema. The evidence is limited, and older figures should not be read as current prevalence. A 2011 breed-club survey received information on 198 of 542 dogs, a response rate of 37 per cent. Ear inflammation, throat infection and signs consistent with pulmonary oedema were each reported for 4 per cent. This is a historical sample, not a current measure of risk for an individual puppy.

Hunting-associated pulmonary oedema is the most important acute condition to watch for in a working hound. Abnormal breathing or fatigue clearly greater than expected during or after hunting must be taken seriously: stop the work and have the dog assessed promptly by a vet. Heritability research often quoted in this context concerns the Drever and cannot simply be transferred to the Basset Artésien Normand. No reliable current prevalence or heritability has been established for this breed.

The older breeding strategy also describes so-called basset lameness, or premature closure of a growth plate. In this condition, the radius continues to grow while growth of the ulna stops, which can cause foreleg lameness. Cases had been reported, but their number was unknown. Lameness in a growing dog should therefore be examined by a vet rather than dismissed as a normal consequence of curved forelegs.

The breed is not individually highlighted in the Swedish Kennel Club's current judging guidance on conformation exaggerations. Its general text for basset breeds nevertheless emphasises a sound front, paw pads with proper ground contact and a well-formed chest. When meeting the parents, watch them move and ask how the breeder follows up lameness, chest construction, ear and throat problems, and hunting oedema in the line.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules require no health examination specifically for this breed when litters are registered. That does not mean health questions can be skipped. Ask for specific information about the parents and close relatives, how the dogs have recovered after hunting and any veterinary diagnoses, rather than accepting only that “the breed is usually healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Basset Artésien Normand was developed in France as a short-legged, short-coated hunting hound. Controlled breeding of short-coated French basset types gathered pace around 1870. Count Le Couteulx de Canteleu shaped a more utilitarian Artois type with straighter forelegs, while Louis Lane developed a Normand type with a more crooked front.

The name Basset Artésien Normand was adopted in 1924. The breed's low construction allowed it to work in dense cover that was harder for larger hounds to enter, while its moderate pace allowed the hunter to follow the work. The first Swedish litter was born in 1966, and Swedish breeding has since maintained a clear focus on the breed's function as a driving hound.

## Living with the Breed

The Basset Artésien Normand is best suited to an active hunter who also wants an affectionate dog at home. It can take part in everyday family life, but a prospective owner needs to accept three things from the outset: hunting drive is central, the voice is powerful, and safety away from hunting requires planning.

The type of home matters less than opportunities to work, spend time outdoors and be managed safely. A powerful hunting voice does not mean every individual is noisy indoors, but sound levels are relevant when living close to neighbours. Time alone must be introduced gradually, beginning with brief, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage.

In a family with children, an adult should be present and teach both children and dog to respect rest, food and body language. The breed's very long ears must not be pulled. Living with other dogs or cats should be assessed individually and developed through calm, controlled introductions. Outdoors, the owner must expect scent and movement to awaken hunting interest even in a dog that is friendly with the family's animals.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Do I have a genuine plan for hunting, starting the young hound and preferably entering working trials?
- Can I let the dog move freely in a safe way without relying blindly on recall?
- Has the breeder openly described working results, movement and health in close relatives?
- Can I respond quickly to abnormal breathing, unusual fatigue or lameness?
- Does a powerful voice and an independent scent hound fit my everyday life?

If the answers are yes, the Basset Artésien Normand can combine careful hunting work with a strong bond at home. If hunting is absent, choose another breed.

Basset Artésien Normand

The Basset Hound Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Swedish Kennel Club

Medium French scent hound with short legs, long sturdy body and gentle, noble expression. Affectionate, calm at home and sociable with dogs, but driven by scent outdoors. Needs moderate exercise, positive training, secure fencing and regular care for ears, weight, back and joints.

Liten uppfödning i hemmiljö av rasen Basset Artesien Normand och Norwichterrier.
Gå gärna in på vår hemsida så får ni veta mera om oss och våra hundar.
http://www.kullalyckans.se

Kennel Kullalyckans, Ulla och Olof Alfredsson

Danish Spitz

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

German Kennel Club (Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen)

Medium, agile Nordic companion from Denmark with a foxlike face and curled tail. Cheerful, people‑oriented and alert, it barks to announce visitors. Dense double coat in white to cream shades needs regular brushing. Active and intelligent, it excels with gentle training and daily exercise.

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