## Quick Facts

The Biewer Terrier is a very small, active companion dog with the alertness of a terrier and a long, tri-coloured coat that requires considerable care. The breed was developed in Germany from Yorkshire Terrier lines but now has its own breed standard.

- **Size:** the current Swedish breed standard specifies a height of 21–26 cm at the withers and a weight of 2.2–3.8 kg.
- **Breed status:** recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the other Nordic kennel clubs, but not by the FCI.
- **Temperament:** lively, alert, close to its family and keen to join in activities; stubbornness and some prey drive may occur.
- **Activity:** needs exercise, play and mental training every day despite its small size.
- **Coat:** long, straight and silky with no undercoat. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as non-shedding, but the coat needs frequent brushing.
- **The key everyday question:** do you have time for coat care, tooth brushing, training the dog to stay alone and an active little dog?

## Appearance & Coat

The Biewer Terrier is a small, elegant dog whose most distinctive features are its long, tri-coloured coat and the ponytail on its head. The body is slightly longer than tall, although a squarer outline is also accepted. The ears are small and erect, the eyes are dark and the expression is alert.

The current Swedish standard specifies 21–26 cm and 2.2–3.8 kg. You may also encounter 18–28 cm and 1.8–3.6 kg in another Nordic version of the standard. This does not mean that there are two size varieties. Use the current Swedish Kennel Club standard when comparing Swedish information. These measurements describe the standard, not how large every puppy will become.

The coat should be long, straight, soft and silky with no undercoat. The head is blue or black, gold or tan, and white; the body is blue or black and white, with white on areas including the chest, abdomen, legs and tip of the tail as described in the standard.

This coat suits an owner who accepts a fixed grooming routine. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends going through it at least every other day and says that bathing may be needed every one or two weeks depending on coat length and need. Ease out small tangles before they become tight and pay particular attention where the coat rubs together. A short pet trim reduces the work but does not remove the need for combing, bathing and regular clipping. Anyone who wants to show the dog needs to keep the coat in a condition that meets the standard.

The fact that the breed does not shed according to the Swedish Kennel Club does not make it allergy-safe. Allergens also come from skin, saliva and other bodily fluids, and the Swedish Asthma and Allergy Association stresses that no dog breed can be called allergy-safe. Where dog allergy is a concern, the reaction needs to be assessed for the individual person and dog before purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

The Biewer Terrier is typically a lively, attentive and close companion, not a passive lapdog. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as cheerful, alert and fearless, while the breed standard highlights trainability, loyalty and a strong attachment to the family. This often makes the dog involved in everything happening at home.

The terrier side is most evident in watchfulness, independence and a desire to follow movement. The Swedish Kennel Club states that some prey drive occurs and that the dog may run after birds, cats and other small animals. A reliable recall, a lead where needed and early training around such distractions are therefore more important than the dog's small size might suggest.

Barking cannot be predicted from the breed name alone. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club describes considerable variation: some individuals bark, while others do not. If noise levels are decisive in a home with thin walls, ask what the parent dogs tend to react to and meet them if possible. Also plan early, gradual training around everyday sounds and calm behaviour at the door.

## Training & Exercise

The Biewer Terrier needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no well-supported minute-by-minute formula that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness and how well the dog settles after activity are better guides than a fixed number of minutes.

A workable routine includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play and short training sessions. Train recall, lead walking, handling, house training and settling calmly in clear, gradual steps. Small dogs need the same consistent everyday skills as large ones; carrying the dog past every difficult situation is not a substitute for training.

The breed may enjoy agility, rally obedience, nose work and trick training. Adapt obstacles and physical load to a small body and build fitness gradually. The aim is a dog that both wants to work and can settle at home; more activity is not automatically better if there is too little recovery.

## Health

The overall health of the Biewer Terrier in Sweden cannot yet be summarised with confidence because the number of registered dogs is limited. It is therefore more responsible to examine documented results and the closest relatives than to label the breed either healthy or unhealthy.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs according to the Swedish Kennel Club. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella status. Ask the breeder to show documented results for both parents and explain how any findings in close relatives have affected breeding decisions.

Eyes are another area to check. The breed club recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and describes both cataracts in Nordic dogs and the inherited retinal condition prcd-PRA, for which a DNA test is available. Ask for current eye results and how the breeder uses DNA results when planning a mating; a genetic test does not replace a clinical eye examination.

Teeth require practical preventive care from the start. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends daily tooth brushing because small dogs can readily develop tartar and poor oral health. Gradually accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled, and ask a veterinarian to assess retained baby teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty eating.

A good health discussion before purchase should therefore cover official results, actual diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's follow-up plan. A long list of conditions that can affect small dogs says less than verifiable information about the particular mating.

## History & Origins

The Biewer Terrier was developed in Germany during the 1980s from Yorkshire Terriers. The background section of the Swedish standard describes a 1984 litter in which puppies born to two purebred Yorkshire Terriers had white markings. The Biewer couple then continued to breed deliberately for the trait.

The breed therefore shares its origins with the Yorkshire Terrier, but it is not simply another colour name for that breed. It has its own standard, a defined tri-coloured pattern and is described in the standard as clearly genetically distinct from the breed of origin. The first Biewer Terrier registered in Sweden entered the Swedish Kennel Club register in 2018.

The breed is nationally recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and other Nordic kennel clubs but is not recognised by the FCI. This mainly matters for registration and certain international show awards. If importing, ask the Swedish Kennel Club to confirm that the particular pedigree can be registered before paying a deposit; a registration certificate from another country is not in itself a guarantee of Swedish registration.

## Living with the Breed

The Biewer Terrier can live in either a flat or a house, but a small home does not make dog ownership low-maintenance. What matters is whether the dog receives daily activity, can be trained to stay calm around everyday sounds, and gets the extensive coat and dental care the breed needs.

With children, the dog's very small body is the main safety issue. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that dogs and young children always have an adult present and that very small dogs are handled with extra care. Children should not carry a puppy, chase it or disturb it in its resting place. Calm interaction says more about suitability than the label “child-friendly”.

Living with a cat or other dogs can work, but it is not guaranteed by breed. The Biewer Terrier's prey drive makes a running cat especially relevant. Give the cat a secure dog-free area and high escape places, keep initial meetings short and controlled, and do not allow chasing. With other dogs, play needs to be managed so that the little dog is not injured by the size difference.

Time alone must be trained, not tested with a long first absence. The Swedish Kennel Club states that a young puppy cannot be left alone and that an adult dog trained to be alone can normally manage a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. Begin when the puppy feels secure, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often when young or old.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions: can you care for the coat throughout the year, brush the teeth daily, plan gradual training for time alone, and give a small but active dog both exercise and mental work? If the answer is yes, the Biewer Terrier can be an engaged and close companion; if you want a low-maintenance little dog, it is a poorer choice.

Biewer Terrier

The Kennel Club (UK)

Deutscher Biewer Yorkshire Terrier Club (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Biewer Terrier is a small, tri-colored toy companion dog with a long, silky, low-shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, playful, and people-oriented, it suits apartment living, needs moderate exercise, gentle training, and can live into its mid teens with good care.

Dalbox

## Quick Facts

The Irish Setter is a medium-sized, energetic pointing dog from Ireland with a strong hunting drive and a breed ideal that emphasises an affectionate nature. On Get a Pet, the breed is called **Irish Setter**. In the Swedish Kennel Club's breed standard, it is called the **Irish Red Setter**; this is the solid-red breed, not the Irish Red and White Setter, which is a separate breed.

- **Breed group:** Group 7, pointing dogs
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Original purpose:** To search for gamebirds, point them, flush the bird on command and retrieve after the shot
- **Height at the withers:** 58–67 cm for males and 55–62 cm for females
- **Weight:** Not specified in the breed standard
- **Activity level:** High; the breed needs both physical activity and tasks that engage its nose and ability to work with a handler every day
- **Best suited to:** An active home that wants to train regularly and can manage hunting drive, recall and a substantial need for movement

This is not primarily a companion dog with a fixed exercise schedule. The breed was developed to work across large areas, and that background is evident in its speed, stamina, independence and interest in bird scent.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Setter should be athletic, balanced and built for fast, sustained movement—not heavy or excessively coated. According to the standard, males should stand 58–67 cm at the withers and females 55–62 cm. The standard does not specify a weight, so an appropriate body condition must be assessed on the individual dog.

The colour is a rich chestnut red with no black. Small white markings may be permitted under the standard, but an Irish Setter should not be confused with the separately recognised Irish Red and White Setter.

The coat is short and fine on the head, the fronts of the legs and the tips of the ears. On the rest of the body, it is moderately long and should lie as flat and free from curl or wave as possible. There is longer, silky feathering on the ears and legs, among other areas. The coat should enhance a functional dog, not obscure the body's outline or impede movement.

Coat care should be based on the dog's actual needs, not a fixed weekly schedule. Check the feathering, the coat around the ears and neck, and the hair around the feet after outings in rough ground. Gently work out developing tangles before they tighten, and remove seeds, twigs and dirt. This is not a traditionally clipped breed, but stray or tangle-prone hair around the ears, neck and feet can be tidied carefully. Excessive shaping does not belong to the breed's functional appearance.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Setter's breed ideal is intense, intelligent, energetic, affectionate and loyal, but friendliness does not automatically make the breed easy. Its strong hunting drive and ability to work at a distance mean that a young or untrained dog can be fast, easily distracted and difficult to reach when the surroundings become more interesting than the handler.

When its needs are met, the breed can be calm and pleasant indoors and highly intense outside. This is a useful description of the breed's two modes, but it is not a guarantee for every individual. Inheritance, upbringing, recovery, training and the everyday environment all influence how a dog behaves at home.

An Irish Setter can suit a committed first-time owner, but not someone looking for a dog that is satisfied with ordinary lead walks and a little weekend activity. The owner needs to enjoy training even when progress comes gradually and be able to prevent hunting drive from becoming a safety problem.

Labels such as “hunting line” and “show line” are not enough to predict everyday behaviour. Instead, ask how the parents and adult close relatives behave at home, how they work outside, how readily they settle and what hunting or other working achievements they actually have. Variation can occur both between and within litters.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Setter needs substantial daily activity, but no single number of hours is right for every adult dog. Age, health, fitness, the individual and the content of the activity determine the load. A slow walk and a search exercise in open ground may take the same amount of time while placing very different demands on the dog.

The breed's original way of working explains what often motivates it: the dog searches quickly and systematically for gamebirds, points when it locates the game, flushes on the handler's command and retrieves after the shot. A companion dog does not need to take part in practical hunting, but everyday life should provide outlets for the same core traits through activities such as movement over varied terrain, scent work, search exercises, retrieving and tasks that require contact with the handler.

Build recall early in a quiet environment and increase distractions gradually. With this breed's hunting drive, a securely enclosed area or a long line is a safer intermediate step than taking a chance off lead. A long line should be attached to a harness and used well away from traffic. Off-lead freedom should come only when the dog can disengage and return even when scent, birds or movement compete for its attention.

For a puppy, short walks, play, environmental learning and simple cooperative exercises are better building blocks than an adult dog's workload. Increase the load gradually and allow plenty of sleep and recovery. The often-repeated “five-minute rule”—five minutes of exercise per month of age—has no scientific support as a universal model and should not replace an assessment of the puppy's size, development and response to the activity.

## Health

For the Irish Setter, it is important to distinguish between conditions that may occur, formal Swedish breeding requirements and test results that are centrally recorded and displayed. A long list of diagnoses tells a puppy buyer less than documented results for the parents and an open account of health among close relatives.

- **Hip dysplasia (HD):** Parent dogs must have an official hip status before mating for the offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The breed also has an HD index. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that the parents' average index be above 100 at the time of mating, and the breed-specific rule states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.
- **CLAD:** Canine leukocyte adhesion deficiency is a serious defect of the white blood cells and is inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. The previous requirement for a DNA test or hereditarily clear status for litter registration was removed in 2014, but results can still be recorded centrally. The breed club continues to recommend testing foreign and imported breeding dogs whose status is unknown.
- **rcd4-PRA:** This is a specific, recessively inherited form of the retinal disease PRA. Following a decision in 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club records and publishes DNA results for Irish Setters in Hunddata and Avelsdata. The test shows the dog's status for the specific rcd4 mutation; it does not rule out other forms of PRA.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' registered hip results and explain the mating's HD index. Also request documented CLAD and rcd4 status and an explanation of how the results informed the mating. Check the information in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata rather than relying on verbal assurances. In addition, ask about recurring disease, mobility problems, eye problems and longevity in parents, siblings and older close relatives. This gives a more relevant picture than assuming that every individual will develop everything ever reported in the breed.

## History & Origins

The Irish Red Setter was developed in Ireland as a working hunting dog, and the modern breed's history is closely tied to gamebird hunting. According to the breed standard, it descends from the Irish Red and White Setter combined with an unknown solid-red dog. A recognisable type existed in Ireland during the 1700s.

The Irish Red Setter Club was founded in 1882 and published a breed standard in 1886. This helped define the identity and characteristics of the solid-red breed. The first imported dogs arrived in Sweden in the 1890s, and the Swedish Irish Setter Club was founded in 1910.

At the core of the breed standard is a functional dog with speed, strength, stamina and a friendly expression. The history is therefore more than background: it explains why hunting drive, a need for movement and work with a handler remain central to life with the breed today.

## Living with the Breed

The Irish Setter is best suited to an active home that can provide daily movement, training and recovery, whether the home is a house or a flat. A garden does not replace activity, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. In a flat, quick access to suitable exercise areas, practical daily routines, noise levels and the dog's ability to settle become particularly important.

The breed can become a warm and close family member, but “good with children” should not be taken to mean risk-free. A large, fast and playful dog can knock over a small child without meaning to. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Adults must remain responsible for walks, exercise and training.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and how introductions are managed. Early exposure is no guarantee, especially with a dog bred to react to bird scent and movement. When introducing a cat, the animals should first have separate safe areas, the cat should have clear escape routes, and early meetings should be calm and use a barrier or lead. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is well understood.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in how easily they learn. Start with very short, uneventful periods when the dog feels secure and increase the duration only when it can relax. A home in which the dog will regularly be left alone for a full working day without help is a poor match.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Does daily life have room for meaningful activity even on dark, rainy working days? Can you train recall and manage the dog safely before it is reliable off lead? Can the breeder show health records and describe the parents as individuals, rather than only by a line label? If any answer is no, it is sensible to choose a less demanding breed or wait.

Irish Setter

The Irish Setter Club of Germany

The Irish Setter Breeders Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Graceful Irish gundog with a mahogany red, feathered coat needing regular grooming. Medium‑large, athletic and high‑energy, it thrives on daily vigorous exercise and mental work. Affectionate, people‑oriented and playful, it’s good with families but needs consistent, positive training.

John Jensen

WoodWood’s

German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh)

German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Germany (Deutsch-Kurzhaar-Verband)

Norwegian German Shorthaired Pointer Club (Norsk Vorstehhundklubb)

Svenska Vorstehklubben (Swedish Pointing Dog Club)

The German Shorthaired Pointer (Vorsteh) is a medium‑large, athletic gundog with a short, shedding coat and striking liver-and-white patterns. Energetic, people-focused and intelligent, it needs extensive daily exercise, positive training, and close family contact to stay calm and content.

Carsten Nielsen

Swedish Lapphund

Swedish Kennel Club

The Lapphund Club of Finland

Deutscher Club für Nordische Hunde (German Club for Northern Dogs)

The Swedish Lapphund is an ancient Nordic spitz‑type herding dog with a compact, sturdy build and thick black double coat. Lively, vocal and people‑oriented, it excels in herding and dog sports. Active, intelligent and sensitive, it needs regular exercise, training and close family contact.

Mette Olsen, Tom Olsen

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Malinois is the short-coated variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. Under the FCI and the Swedish Kennel Club, the Malinois, Groenendael, Tervueren and Laekenois are four varieties of the same breed, distinguished chiefly by coat and colour.
- The Malinois is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog. The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females; the breed standard allows 2 cm below and 4 cm above the ideal.
- This is a watchful breed, quick in both thought and action, developed to work closely with people. Being quick to learn does not make a Malinois easy to live with: training also needs to develop calm behaviour, impulse control and recovery.
- A Malinois is best suited to someone who wants to train regularly and can provide both physical exercise and work for the nose and brain every day. Long walks alone rarely form a complete plan.
- Family dog, sport dog and service dog are not mutually exclusive roles, but the choice of breeder and litter matters greatly. Look at the parents’ everyday behaviour, temperament assessment, working achievements, health and previous offspring, not merely the breed name.

## Appearance & Coat

The Malinois should be medium-sized, square and powerful without looking heavy. Its body length should therefore be approximately equal to its height at the withers, rather than giving a distinctly long-bodied impression. The head is lean and well chiselled, the ears are small, triangular and erect, and movement should be light and lively.

The ideal height in the breed standard is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females, with a tolerance of 2 cm below and 4 cm above. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females. These figures describe an adult in normal condition; proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than a single reading on the scales.

The Malinois is short-coated. The hair is very short on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs, slightly fuller around the neck, thighs and tail, with a dense undercoat. The coat should be fawn with black overlay and a pronounced black mask. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes, but large white markings are outside the standard.

The coat does not require elaborate professional grooming. Brush it when hair is coming loose and bathe the dog when it is genuinely dirty. More frequent brushing is useful during shedding. After work in woodland, long grass or water, take the opportunity to check the skin, paws, nails and ears. The short coat makes inspection easy, but does not replace a regular hands-on check of the dog’s body.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Malinois is alert, active and very ready to act. At the same time, the breed ideal calls for a confident dog without fear or aggression. High intensity is not the same as poor emotional control, and a dog that is constantly stressed is not more typical simply because it is fast.

There is considerable variation between individuals. The Swedish Kennel Club tells prospective owners to expect differences both between the varieties and between individual dogs. A label such as “working, service or show line” is therefore not enough on which to base a decision. Ask to see how the parents greet people, recover after a surprise, accept handling, pass other dogs and settle when nothing is happening. Read the full Mentalbeskrivning Hund (MH), the Swedish working-dog temperament description, and ask how siblings and previous offspring cope with ordinary life.

A well-matched and well-managed Malinois can live successfully with children, but its speed and rapid reactions call for adult supervision. Children and dog should each have an undisturbed resting place, and boisterous games should stop before the dog begins to chase movement or becomes too aroused. Young children should never be responsible for training or walks. The same caution applies around cats, small animals and unfamiliar dogs: whether it works depends on the individual, previous experience and training. Introduce the animals gradually and make sure they can be kept apart.

## Training & Exercise

The Malinois needs physical and mental activity every day, but no credible fixed number of hours suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, the type of work and the ability to recover should guide the plan. A balanced week might combine walks and conditioning with tracking, scent work, obedience, working trials or another purposeful activity. The aim is not to make the dog as tired as possible, but to develop useful skills and a sustainable routine.

Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead walking, handling, stop and release cues, and the ability to wait and rest from an early age. Training should be reward-based, tailored to the individual and made harder gradually as the dog develops. Short, clear sessions with breaks often produce better work than repeating an exercise until the dog loses accuracy or becomes over-aroused.

Puppies and adolescents should not be exercised like fully grown service dogs. Develop strength, confidence in different environments and body awareness gradually, and do not let repetitive ball chasing, jumping or long runs become the entire activity plan. Watch movement and recovery. Stiffness, lameness, poorer concentration or an inability to settle after activity are reasons to reduce the load and, where necessary, consult a vet or an experienced instructor.

A first-time owner can succeed, but the learning curve is steep. A realistic plan includes access to a working-dog club or experienced trainer, support from the breeder and a clear idea of what the dog will do on dark weekday evenings and during periods when competition or service work is not taking place.

## Health

The Belgian Shepherd Dog is described as generally healthy and sound, but hips, elbows, epileptic-type seizures and back problems deserve particular attention. Before buying a puppy, it is important to distinguish binding registration rules from the breed club’s stricter breeding advice and to examine the wider family, not just each parent’s individual result.

For Swedish-registered breeding, the current Swedish Kennel Club rules require official hip and elbow status and known mental status for the parents covered by those provisions. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, known mental status means a complete MH with all 33 positions recorded; a Beteende- och personlighetsbeskrivning hund (BPH), the more general Swedish behaviour and personality assessment, does not replace this requirement for the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) additionally recommends A or B hips, clear elbows and a score of 1 or 2 in the MH gunshot item. Ask to see the original results and check siblings and previous offspring too.

Information about epilepsy needs careful interpretation. An older RAS survey captured reports of seizures or epileptic-type episodes in a small proportion of Malinois, but owners’ reports are not the same as veterinary diagnoses and the figures do not show how common the problem is in the breed today. Research demonstrates a hereditary component to epilepsy in Belgian Shepherd Dogs, with the strongest published evidence concerning the Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. Ask specifically about seizures in parents, siblings, half-siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a broad commercial DNA panel.

The RAS survey also flagged back problems in Malinois, but these were again reports from owners in an older sample and should not be read as current prevalence. Ask about spondylosis, lumbosacral problems, recurring lameness and work-related injuries in the family. For an active dog, an honest family history, official joint results and a plan for progressive conditioning are more useful than a long list of possible diagnoses.

## History & Origins

The Malinois originated in Belgium and developed from the local sheepdogs used in the late 1800s. The Belgian Shepherd Dog Club was founded in Brussels in 1891. In the same year, veterinary professor Adolphe Reul brought together 117 dogs to describe and select a more consistent type, and a first detailed breed standard was in place by 1892.

The first Belgian Shepherd Dogs entered the Belgian stud book in 1901, and by about 1910 the type and temperament were considered established. In today’s FCI standard, the Belgian Shepherd Dog is one breed with four varieties: the short-coated Malinois, the long-coated Groenendael and Tervueren, and the rough-coated Laekenois. The Malinois takes its name from Malines, the French name for the city of Mechelen, where the short-coated type was developed.

As the need for traditional herding declined, the work changed. Traits needed around livestock and farms — attentiveness, agility, stamina and close co-operation — found new uses in working trials, search, guarding and service work. That background explains the breed’s capacity, but it does not mean that every individual is automatically suited to every task.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Malinois works best when activity, recovery and household rules have been planned before the dog arrives. A large empty garden does not replace shared work, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. What matters is whether the dog can receive daily physical and mental activity, learn to remain calm indoors and be managed safely in stairwells, on public transport and when passing other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. An adult dog that is comfortable being left can normally manage a few hours, while a young puppy cannot be left alone. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, more often when young or old. This is a supervision threshold, not a target for how long a Malinois should be left; the dog’s actual response determines whether training needs to progress more slowly.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to say yes to the following:

- I have a clear training aim and time for both activity and rest every day.
- I have met the parents, or received credible information about their everyday behaviour, MH results, working ability and recovery.
- I have checked official hip, elbow and mental status and asked about epileptic-type seizures, back problems and temperament in the close family.
- I have a plan for children, visitors and other animals based on supervision, separation and gradual training.
- I have access to knowledgeable help if the dog’s intensity, fear, chasing behaviour or stress becomes difficult to manage.

For the right handler, the Malinois is an exceptionally versatile training partner. The sustainable choice, however, is not the puppy that appears most explosive, but the individual whose traits, family history and breeding purpose fit the life you can actually provide.

Belgian Malinois

Deutscher Club für Belgische Schäferhunde e.V. (Germany)

Belgian Malinois: medium‑large, lean, and highly athletic herding dog with a short fawn coat and black mask. Extremely intelligent, intense, loyal, and people‑focused. Needs firm structure, daily mental work, and heavy exercise; thrives with experienced, very active owners.

Adored Flames

Acaya's

## Quick Facts

- The West Highland White Terrier, often called a Westie, is a small but sturdy terrier from the Scottish Highlands.
- The breed stands about 28 centimetres at the withers and should combine strength, agility and considerable confidence in a small frame.
- The white double coat should be hand-stripped, not clipped. Allow for professional grooming about five or six times a year and a thorough comb-through every week.
- A Westie is typically alert, cheerful, courageous and friendly, although the terrier's independence and hunting background are often evident in daily life.
- Skin disease and itching are the breed's main documented health concern. Ask about skin and ear health in the family rather than relying on a generic panel of tests.
- Many Westies live for 12–15 years, but lifespan varies with the individual, health and living conditions.

## Appearance & Coat

The West Highland White Terrier is small, compact and much sturdier than its neat white outline might suggest. The breed standard describes a strongly built dog with a deep chest, level back, muscular legs and free movement. It stands about 28 centimetres at the withers. Dark eyes, small upright ears and a straight, jaunty tail create the characteristically alert expression.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat should be straight, harsh and about five centimetres long, while the undercoat should be short, soft and close. The colour is white. This texture is not merely a matter of appearance: a correctly maintained harsh coat repels a good deal of dirt and sheds relatively little hair around the home.

To retain that harsh texture, a Westie's mature outer coat should be removed by hand-stripping. The Swedish Kennel Club advises against clipping because it changes the coat quality. A knowledgeable groomer is normally needed five or six times a year. Between visits, comb the coat thoroughly once a week, paying particular attention beneath the abdomen and in the armpits and groin, where tangles form readily. Check the skin, ears, teeth, paws and nails at the same time. A well-maintained harsh coat does not need frequent bathing; when a bath is necessary, rinse a mild dog shampoo out thoroughly.

Low shedding does not make the breed allergy-safe. Dog allergens are present in skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, among other sources, and levels can differ greatly between two dogs of the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a Westie on the strength of claims about a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Westie is alert, outgoing, friendly and self-assured. It is a sociable little dog, but not one that automatically waits for instructions in every situation. Its background as a working terrier favoured initiative, stamina and courage. In a modern home, this may appear as intense curiosity, barking when something is heard or an immediate interest in movement.

A West Highland White Terrier can live happily in a family with children when the adults take responsibility for every interaction. A small child and a dog should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a private resting place where it will not be disturbed. A sturdy build does not mean the dog should tolerate being carried, restrained or disturbed while eating or sleeping.

How a Westie gets on with other dogs and cats depends more on the individual, experience and introductions than on a simple rule about the breed. Arrange calm meetings, give both animals plenty of space and stop before play becomes too intense. Small pets require greater caution. The breed was developed to pursue small quarry, so a cage or a history of peaceful contact is no guarantee once predatory behaviour is aroused.

Treat the breed description as an ideal, not a promise about every puppy. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, dog encounters, handling and unfamiliar environments, and whether they settle indoors. Those answers are more useful than labels such as “stubborn”, “good with children” or “easy-going”.

## Training & Exercise

The West Highland White Terrier needs physical activity, scent work and interaction every day, but no fixed time allowance suits every dog. A healthy adult can have a fulfilling routine built around varied walks, time to investigate smells, search games, play and short training sessions. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, health and weather. An appropriately active dog maintains a healthy body condition, moves without stiffness and can settle at home.

Reward-based training works for both everyday skills and challenges such as barking or unreliable recall. Make the right choice easy: create distance from a distraction, reward engagement and teach a specific alternative such as going to a bed or turning back towards you. Harsh corrections do not address the reason for a behaviour and can damage both welfare and cooperation.

Recall should be developed progressively, moving from simple settings to more difficult ones. Use a long line wherever wildlife, traffic or other powerful distractions would make failure dangerous. The aim is not to prove that the dog can be off lead, but to provide freedom without gambling with safety. Scent searches, everyday obedience, rally and suitably adapted agility can give a terrier clear tasks without demanding long, repetitive sessions.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Extend walks, surfaces and unfamiliar environments gradually, with ample time for recovery.

## Health

Skin disease and itching are the clearest documented health concern in the West Highland White Terrier. In the WestieAlliansen breed club's voluntary 2019 health survey, skin problems were reported in 92 of 535 dogs, or about 17 per cent. The survey was not statistically standardised, so the figure should not be treated as an exact prevalence for the whole breed. It does, however, explain why recurring itching, redness, paw licking and ear trouble deserve attention.

Seek veterinary help when itching recurs or does not resolve. Parasites, infection, allergy and other causes can produce similar signs but need different treatment. In the same survey, 59 of 535 dogs had ear trouble more than once a year, and skin and ear problems sometimes occurred together. Changing food, shampooing frequently or giving supplements without a diagnosis can delay appropriate care.

Craniomandibular osteopathy (CMO) and Legg–Perthes disease are documented but were reported infrequently in the survey: two and five dogs respectively. CMO can cause sudden pain and swelling in a puppy's jaw. A DNA test can assist breeding decisions, but the breed club's RAS document stresses that it indicates a level of risk rather than giving a definitive healthy-or-affected result.

The Swedish Kennel Club has not established a health programme for the breed. There is therefore no official breed requirement for a generic package of knee, hip and eye examinations, for example. Instead, ask the breeder to describe skin disease, itching and recurring ear or digestive problems in both parents, their siblings and previous offspring. Ask how older relatives are faring and whether litters are followed up at about one and three years of age. If CMO occurs in the family, the breeder should be able to explain how that information and any test results influenced the choice of parents.

A responsible breeder distinguishes clearly between Swedish Kennel Club rules, breed-club recommendations and voluntary checks of their own. Ask to see registered results and veterinary certificates where they exist, but also value specific answers about close relatives. The absence of a central programme does not mean the absence of inherited risks.

## History & Origins

The West Highland White Terrier comes from the western Scottish Highlands and was shaped as a small, agile working terrier. Rough-coated terriers went to ground after quarry including foxes and badgers and controlled rats and other small animals. The work called for courage, speed, strong jaws and the ability to make independent decisions in difficult terrain.

White dogs were easier to distinguish from quarry against the Scottish moorland. During the 1860s, Colonel Malcolm of Poltalloch began to favour white terriers, an important step in the development of the modern breed. The name West Highland White Terrier was established in 1905. Crosses with Cairn Terriers were still permitted until 1924, showing how closely related the Scottish terrier types remained while the breed was being formed.

Today the breed is kept mainly as a companion, but its historic working style can still be seen in an interest in scents, holes, movement and independent action. It also explains why obedience, agility and other activities are often a better fit than a life made up solely of brief toilet walks.

## Living with the Breed

A West Highland White Terrier can live in a flat or a house; the content of daily life matters more than the size of the home. In a block of flats, the owner needs to teach the dog to remain calm around sounds and movement near doors, communal areas and windows. A garden is useful, but it does not replace walks, new scents and training together.

Time alone should be taught gradually, using periods short enough for the dog to remain comfortable. Take a step back if the dog shows anxiety or distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog outside at least every six hours during the day concerns exercise and toileting; it is not a promise that every Westie will cope well with six hours alone. Puppies, older dogs and anxious individuals need closer supervision and more frequent outings.

For a first-time owner, the breed can be a good choice if they want to train, are prepared to use a lead or long line and accept the continuing coat care. It is a poorer fit for someone seeking a dog that will always be off lead, rarely make itself heard and cope with full working days alone. Include regular hand-stripping in both the calendar and the budget before deciding.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions:

- Is there time for daily activity, training and undisturbed rest?
- Is there a safe plan for time alone and outdoor breaks during the working day?
- Can the dog be kept on a lead or long line where its hunting interest makes this necessary?
- Is there both time and budget for recurring professional hand-stripping?

If the answer is yes and you appreciate a small dog with plenty of initiative, a Westie can be an entertaining and close companion for many years.

West Highland White Terrier

West Highland White Terrier Club of England

VCA Animal Hospitals

Die Terrierhunde (Germany)

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

The West Highland White Terrier is a small, sturdy Scottish terrier with a harsh white coat that sheds lightly. Confident, vocal and independent yet affectionate, it suits city or country homes. Needs daily walks, mental stimulation, regular grooming and consistent, reward‑based training.

Britt Søholm

## Quick Facts

The Shiba Inu is a small Japanese spitz and the smallest of the six native Japanese dog breeds preserved by NIPPO. It was developed to hunt birds and small game, but today it is kept primarily as a companion dog.

- **Size:** the ideal height is 39.5 cm for males and 36.5 cm for females, with a tolerance of 1.5 cm either way.
- **Weight:** as a rough guide, males weigh around 9–11 kg and females around 7–9 kg.
- **Coat:** a short double coat with straight, harsh outer hairs and a soft, dense undercoat.
- **Colours:** red, black and tan, and sesame varieties. All recognised colours must have pale markings known as urajiro.
- **Temperament:** alert, independent and loyal, and sometimes wary of strangers.
- **Activity:** needs varied exercise, scent work and short training sessions that feel worthwhile.
- **Lifespan:** many Shiba Inus live to an advanced age. A large UK study found a median of 14.6 years, although an individual dog's lifespan is influenced by factors including genetics, health and care.

The Shiba Inu is best suited to someone who appreciates a dog that takes its own initiative and can devote time to socialisation, a reliable recall and calm handling practice. Independent does not mean able to look after itself.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shiba Inu is compact, muscular and slightly longer than it is tall, with upright triangular ears and a strong tail carried curled or sickle-shaped over the back. Its movement should be light and brisk. There is a clear size difference between the sexes, but the breed should never appear heavy or exaggerated.

Urajiro is not a separate colour. It refers to the whitish areas required on the sides of the muzzle, the cheeks, beneath the jaw and neck, on the chest and belly, and on the undersides of the legs and tail. Understanding the term is useful when comparing a red, black-and-tan or sesame Shiba Inu.

The double coat provides protection through its combination of harsh outer hairs and a dense undercoat. Brushing about once a week is normally enough, but loose undercoat needs to be removed more often during heavy shedding. The timing and amount of shedding vary with the individual, season and environment, so do not expect an exact schedule. Bathe the dog when it is actually dirty and introduce brushing, paw checks and nail trimming early. The coat should not be routinely clipped or shaved to shape it.

“Mame Shiba”, “Mini Shiba” and similar names do not denote a separate NIPPO breed. Anyone offered an unusually small dog should check its registration and the size and health of its parents rather than relying on a marketing label.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shiba Inu is usually attentive, quick-witted and loyal to its family, yet independent enough to question a task that offers it no value. That is more accurate than simply calling the breed stubborn. It learns quickly, but cooperation must be built through trust, clarity and patience.

Some Shiba Inus are reserved with unfamiliar people and sensitive to intrusive body language. Early, positive experiences of different people, environments and surfaces help a puppy, but the goal is confidence rather than a dog that must greet everyone. Give it room to move away and never force contact.

The breed name cannot reliably predict how an individual will behave with children, dogs or cats. Upbringing, past experience and personality all matter. Ask to meet the puppy's mother, find out how the parents and previous litters cope with new situations, and do not choose a puppy on colour or sex alone. Claims that every Shiba Inu has problems with dogs of the same sex are too sweeping.

## Training & Exercise

The Shiba Inu needs daily physical activity and mental engagement, but a fixed number of minutes says less than the way that time is used. Vary the pace and setting of walks, allow time to sniff, and add activities such as mantrailing, blood tracking, scent work, agility or brief skills sessions. Match the workload to the dog's age, fitness and health, and make sure it can also settle and rest.

Reward-based training is particularly effective for a dog that likes to make its own decisions. Reward voluntary attention, staying with you and good choices before increasing the distractions. Several short, clear sessions achieve more than repetitive drilling. Harsh corrections can increase stress and damage trust without teaching the dog what you want it to do.

The breed's hunting background may show as an interest in scent and movement, but the strength of that interest varies between individuals. Build recall training gradually, and use a lead or long line wherever the dog cannot be recalled safely. A recall that works in the garden is no proof that it will hold when wildlife appears. Check gates, harnesses and fencing too; physical safety should never depend on a single cue.

Practise handling before it is needed. Start with very brief touches to the paws, ears and mouth, reward calm behaviour and give the dog breaks. Gradually extend the time and introduce the brush, nail clippers and examination positions. This makes routine care and veterinary visits easier, especially for a dog that dislikes restraint.

## Health

Swedish breeding guidance describes the Shiba Inu as a breed with generally good health, but that does not mean every dog is free from problems. When choosing a puppy, documented results and frank questions for the breeder are more useful than a general claim that the breed is healthy.

Under both long-standing policy and the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, both parents of a Shiba Inu litter must have an officially recorded hip dysplasia result before mating. The rule requires their hips to have been assessed; it does not restrict breeding to grades A or B alone. The general rules do, however, exclude dogs graded E and allow a dog graded D only with a partner graded A or B. Check the parents' results, and ideally those of close relatives, through the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata service and ask the breeder to explain how the pairing was assessed.

Skin and itching are also worth discussing. In the breed club's 2018 health survey, about 15 per cent of respondents reported recurrent or long-lasting skin problems or itching, and around 10 per cent of all respondents said a vet had identified allergy. A voluntary member survey shows what the club needs to monitor; it does not establish the exact prevalence in the whole breed. Ask specifically about persistent itching, paw licking and recurrent ear or skin trouble in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

The breed-specific breeding strategy also reports elbow and kneecap examinations, but too few dogs were examined to draw firm conclusions about the whole breed. Eye, elbow and patellar examinations are therefore not general registration requirements for the Shiba Inu in Sweden. A breeder may still have carried out further tests because of the particular line; if so, ask to see the results and understand why those tests were chosen.

The 2024 UK longevity study included 423 Shiba Inus and found a median lifespan of 14.6 years. This is a population measure from the UK, not a guarantee for an individual dog elsewhere, but it supports the breed's reputation for often living well into old age.

## History & Origins

The Shiba Inu comes from Japan and was used in mountainous areas to hunt birds and small animals. Before the modern breed was established, regional lines included the San'in, Shinshu and Mino. The old word *shiba* has been associated with something small. Explanations linking the name to a particular coat colour or vegetation are interpretations rather than settled etymology.

As foreign gundogs were imported and crossed with native dogs, pure Shiba Inus became rare in their regions of origin. NIPPO was founded in 1928 to preserve the Japanese dogs, began compiling detailed pedigrees in 1932 and established a standard in 1934. In 1936, the Shiba Inu was designated a national natural monument in Japan.

The Second World War severely reduced the population, and preservation work gathered pace again after the war. NIPPO identifies Ishi Go as central to the development of the modern breed and Naka Go as a foundation dog of the post-war restoration. Today's Shiba Inu is therefore the product of organised preservation work, not simply an unchanged relic from ancient times.

## Living with the Breed

A Shiba Inu can live in a flat if it gets sufficient activity outdoors, can settle indoors and is not left to react to every noise in the communal hallway. The size of the home matters less than daily routines, the surrounding area and opportunities for safe exercise. A quiet resting place of its own is valuable in any home.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with any dog: a young child and a dog should always have an adult present. Teach the child to leave the dog alone when it is eating, sleeping or moving away. Never allow a child to hug or climb on the dog, or take things from it. If the household has a cat or small pets, make introductions gradually and use physical separation; assess the individual dog's response rather than relying on a breed label.

Independence is not the same as tolerance of being left alone. Start alone-time training only once the puppy feels secure in its new home, leave for a very short time and return before it becomes worried. Increase the time gradually and take a step back if the dog starts pacing, barking, scratching or stops resting as usual. A young puppy should not be left alone, and even a trained adult needs company and opportunities to relieve itself every day.

The piercing sound often called the “Shiba scream” online is not a diagnosis and should not be dismissed as comedy. Consider the situation and the rest of the dog's body language. A sudden cry when the dog is touched or moves, particularly alongside lameness, reluctance to move, a change in appetite or unusual behaviour, warrants contacting a vet. For routine handling, preventive, cooperative practice is better than restraining the dog until it gives up.

The right home for a Shiba Inu is therefore not necessarily the one with the longest history of dog ownership, but one that respects the individual dog's boundaries while working methodically on safety, cooperation and everyday handling.

Shiba Inu

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Ancient Japanese spitz-type hunting dog, small yet muscular with foxlike face, curled tail and plush double coat in red, black and tan or sesame with urajiro. Independent, catlike, loyal but reserved, strong-willed, high prey drive, needs early socialisation, firm positive training and regular exercise.

Tine Lautrup Petersen

## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Hyldtoft

Sommerlyst's

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Shepherd Groenendael is the long-haired black variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The FCI treats the Groenendael, Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois as four varieties of one breed.
- The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females. The standard allows two centimetres below and four centimetres above the ideal. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females.
- The Groenendael is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog with rapid reactions. It needs both purposeful activity and the ability to settle.
- The breed ideal is watchful, active, confident and willing to work, but also calm and fearless without aggression. Heredity, early experience and training greatly influence the individual dog.
- The long double coat is uniformly black. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes.
- The breed suits someone who wants to train regularly, can read a fast-reacting dog and will choose a breeder for temperament and health, not merely for the black coat.

## Appearance & Coat

The Groenendael should combine elegance and power without heaviness. The body is approximately as long as the height at the withers, the chest reaches the elbows and the head is carried high. The ears are small, triangular and erect. Movement should be free, easy and lively, and the dog should be able to change direction quickly without losing balance.

All four Belgian Shepherd varieties share the same fundamental construction. They are distinguished mainly by coat length, texture and colour. Groenendaels and Tervuerens are long-haired, while the Groenendael must be uniformly black. A small white patch on the forechest and a little white on the toes are tolerated.

The coat has a dense, woolly undercoat and abundant protective outer hair. Hair is shorter on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs. Longer hair forms a ruff and apron around the neck and chest, fringes on the forelegs, breeches on the thighs and a plume on the tail.

Let the comb and skin determine the grooming schedule. Check the ruff, behind the ears, armpits, breeches and tail with your fingers and a comb. If the comb catches or the undercoat lies densely against the skin, the coat needs a more thorough brushing. This may be frequent during shedding and much less often between shedding periods. Bathe the dog when dirty and dry the coat right down to the skin. Check the claws, ears, skin and teeth at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Groenendael is a quick, observant dog that may notice movement, sounds and changes before its owner does. The FCI describes the Belgian Shepherd as watchful, active and full of energy, always ready to act. The same standard also calls for confidence, calmness and fearlessness without aggression. High activity and stability are not opposites.

How open the dog is with people varies. It need not want to greet everyone, but it should be able to remain among people without becoming fearful or threatening. Practise passing people, receiving visitors and accepting handling without turning every person into a new task. Provide distance when needed and reward calm choices.

Older Swedish MH behavioural-assessment results show why a breed average is not enough. Results differed between the varieties, and handling and responses to gunshots have been among the areas the breed club wanted to improve in Groenendaels. The data concern older generations and cannot predict a puppy today.

Ask to see the parents' complete MH diagrams rather than accepting that they have “known mental status”. Ask about full siblings and earlier offspring as well: how do they recover after surprises, cope with body handling and respond to noise, unfamiliar people and dogs? A title or completed test does not replace this everyday evidence.

## Training & Exercise

The Groenendael needs daily physical activity, scent work, learning and recovery, but no fixed number of hours suits every dog. An adult may enjoy walks over varied ground, tracking, searching, obedience, herding or other tasks that engage both body and mind. Choose activities according to the individual's motivation, health and ability to settle afterwards.

Early training should prioritise the skills that make a fast, reactive dog safe in everyday life:

- walking on a loose lead and turning calmly away from distractions
- attention and recall in safe environments
- waiting at doors, by the car and beside the training area
- seeing people, dogs and movement without immediately acting
- calm, voluntary handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- a learned resting place and the ability to sleep after activity

Reward-based training provides clear information without needless conflict. Groenendaels often learn quickly, and unwanted behaviour can be learned just as fast. Reward what you want before the dog has time to lunge, bark or become over-aroused. Food, play, sniffing, greater distance and access to an activity can all be effective rewards.

More training is not always the answer to high activity. A dog that becomes increasingly frantic or vocal, or cannot sleep after a session, may need simpler tasks, longer breaks and fewer stimuli. Puppies and adolescents should move in varied ways without long runs, heavy physical strain or repeated jumping. Lameness, stiffness or reluctance to move should be assessed by a vet.

## Health

Several mandatory Swedish breeding conditions apply to Belgian Shepherds. Both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result. Dogs graded C, D or E should not be used for breeding in this breed; offspring from such a dog receive a permanent breeding restriction. Check that both parents are graded A or B rather than merely being told that they were X-rayed.

Both parents must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. This does not automatically mean grade 0. The Swedish Kennel Club generally recommends grade 0; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be bred from, while grade 1 should be used only sparingly and with a grade-0 dog. Ask to see the exact hip and elbow grades and their dates.

Breeding dogs resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have “known mental status”. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, this means a complete MH assessment with entries in all 33 positions. An interrupted MH does not count, but the dog still gains known status if the handler declines the gunshot element. Known mental status therefore confirms completion, not that the dog “passed” every situation.

Epilepsy is a documented concern, particularly in the long-haired Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. An older Danish study and a Swedish survey cannot be used as current Swedish prevalence figures, but they show why family history matters. There is no simple DNA result that clears an entire family. Ask about seizures or seizure-like episodes in the parents, full and half siblings, earlier offspring and older relatives, including cases that appeared only after a dog had already been bred from.

Gastric cancer is another issue to investigate. A Dutch study published in 2024 found both increased occurrence and a clear hereditary component in Groenendaels and Tervuerens within the population studied. Its results are not Swedish prevalence figures, and there is not yet a genetic test that can clear an individual dog. Ask the breeder about gastric cancer in older close relatives. Recurrent vomiting, reduced appetite, weight loss or persistent digestive problems should be assessed by a vet.

An eye examination is not a mandatory breed-specific condition in Sweden's 2026 registration rules, but eye disease forms part of the breed's health work. Ask about current eye results and diagnoses among relatives. Obtain the actual documents: “all tests completed” says nothing about the results.

## History & Origins

The Belgian Shepherd developed from the varied types of sheepdog found in Belgium in the late nineteenth century. The Club du Chien de Berger Belge was founded in Brussels on 29 September 1891. On 15 November that year, Professor A. Reul assembled 117 dogs in Cureghem to record the existing type and select suitable breeding animals.

The first detailed breed standard was written on 3 April 1892 and described one breed with three coat varieties. The first Belgian Shepherds entered the Belgian stud book in 1901. According to the FCI, breed type and temperament were largely established by about 1910.

The rules for colours and coats continued to change. After the population fell sharply during the Second World War, the breed was rebuilt, and the four present varieties were fixed in 1974: Groenendael, Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois. The Groenendael was the first Belgian Shepherd variety to reach Sweden, arriving in the early 1950s.

## Living with the Breed

The Groenendael can live successfully in many types of home, but is poorly suited to a routine of brief toilet walks and few shared activities. Its owner needs to help it switch between work and rest. This matters more than whether the home is a house or a flat.

Active adult supervision is essential around children. A fast dog can knock a child over or become over-aroused by running and shouting without being aggressive. Children must never disturb the dog while it eats, sleeps or moves away. Judge adult relatives by their actual behaviour around children rather than relying on the label “family dog”.

Living with another dog, a cat or a smaller animal must be assessed individually. Early familiarity may help, but it does not replace gates, separate resting places and controlled introductions. A dog that lives well with the household cat may still react to a running cat outdoors.

Flat living can work if there are good opportunities for activity, crowded encounters can be managed and the dog learns to rest despite outside noise. Introduce time alone gradually from brief periods. Increase it only when the dog can eat, rest and return to a calm state; distress, pacing or persistent noise means the step was too large.

A well-prepared first-time owner may succeed with support from the breeder and a knowledgeable trainer, but the breed is a poor choice for someone seeking a dog that easily ignores its surroundings. Meet the dam and preferably several adult relatives, observe them in everyday life and training, and check the hip, elbow and MH results yourself. Ask about epilepsy, gastric cancer, eyes and temperament in the family. Choose a puppy for how the adult dogs fit your life, not merely for the black coat.

Belgian Shepherd Groenendael

The Belgian Shepherd Dog Association of Great Britain

Svenska Brukshundklubben (Swedish Working Dog Club)

Société Royale Saint-Hubert (Royal Saint Hubert Society of Belgium)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (German Shepherd Association)

Medium‑large, square‑built Belgian herding dog with a long, dense, solid black coat. Intelligent, energetic, and highly trainable, it excels in sports and working roles. Deeply loyal, watchful, and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental work, and regular grooming.

Kenziana

Askim's

Hungarian Vizsla

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Hungarian Vizsla: medium, athletic gundog with a short golden‑rust coat and expressive amber eyes. Affectionate, people‑oriented and high‑energy, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and gentle, consistent training. Clean, easy‑care coat; bonds closely with active families.

Mette Hedegaard Fiedler, Klaus Brødbæk Fiedler

Landseer

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Norsk Kennel Klub (NKK)

The Landseer is a giant, black‑and‑white water rescue and companion dog, calmer and more athletic than a Newfoundland. Gentle, people‑oriented and usually excellent with children, it needs space, regular grooming, steady training, and active owners willing to handle drool, mud and shedding.

BlossomBearAndBasset

Elmelund Skovens

German Hunt Terrier

Verein für Deutsche Jagdterrier e.V.

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The German Hunt Terrier is a compact, athletic working terrier bred in Germany for demanding hunting. Highly driven, fearless, and loyal, it needs intensive daily exercise, firm reward‑based training, and experienced handling. Weather‑resistant coat, moderate shedding, best for active sport or hunting homes.

Sønderheden's

Parson Russell Terrier

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Parson Russell Terriers are medium‑small, long‑legged, athletic fox‑hunting terriers with smooth or broken white coats. Energetic, intelligent, bold, and affectionate, they need plenty of exercise, consistent training, mental stimulation, and clear boundaries in an active home.

Parsons of NorDen

## Quick Facts

The Brittany (Breton) is the smallest of the pointing breeds, but works as a full-sized gundog. The breed comes from France, has FCI number 95 and belongs to group 7. In Sweden, it is used chiefly to hunt game birds lying tight in cover and to retrieve on land and from water.

- Dogs should stand 48–51 centimetres at the withers and bitches 47–50 centimetres. The standard permits a deviation of 1 centimetre beyond these limits but gives no weight.
- The Brittany (Breton) needs to quarter, use its nose, run freely and work with its handler. The Swedish Kennel Club expressly says that anyone who does not intend to hunt would probably be better served by another breed.
- The breed standard describes the Brittany (Breton) as balanced and sociable. The Swedish Kennel Club highlights energy, intelligence, willingness to cooperate and low aggression, but every dog must still be assessed as an individual.
- Both parents must have an official recorded hip dysplasia result for a litter to be registered in Sweden. The breed club's good-breeding guidelines are stricter than the minimum rules.
- Lumbosacral transitional vertebra, LTV, is not covered by a mandatory Swedish health programme for the breed. The breed club nevertheless encourages voluntary spinal screening alongside hip screening.

The decisive question is not how many minutes of exercise you can provide, but whether you can offer suitable work, safe off-lead movement, training and recovery over many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Brittany (Breton) should be compact, square and strong without appearing heavy or coarse. Body length should equal height at the withers. Solid bone, a short back and well-muscled legs enable the dog to work at a gallop across fields, mountains and woodland. Movement should be easy, powerful and lively.

Ideal height is 49–50 centimetres for dogs and 48–49 centimetres for bitches. The standard gives no weight. Figures in breed guides are therefore only estimates and should not be used to force a dog towards a particular number on the scales. Assess body condition, muscle, structure and working ability instead.

The coat should be fine but not silky. It lies flat or is slightly wavy and must never be curly. There is feathering on the backs of the legs. Permitted colours are white with irregular orange, liver or black patches. Pied and roan coats, ticking and tan markings occur, while a solid-coloured coat is not permitted.

The tail may be long, naturally short or absent. Most Brittanys in Sweden have a long tail. The standard's 3–6 centimetres and maximum of 10 centimetres refer to a docked tail, not a natural one; docking is prohibited in Sweden. At registration, the dog is recorded as tailless or as having a bobtail, short tail, full-length tail or a tail that was legally docked abroad.

Coat care should follow the dog's daily life. Brush out loose hair and tangles, bathe when the coat is dirty, and check paws, skin, ears and feathering after work in cover. Dry the dog after water retrieves. Do not use an ear cleaner unless there is a need or your vet advises it.

## Temperament & Personality

The Brittany (Breton) should be balanced, sociable, attentive and willing to cooperate. Contact with the handler is a working trait: the dog must hunt independently while remaining in touch and responsive at a distance. That is more informative than simply calling the breed cuddly, sensitive or easy to train.

The Swedish breeding strategy calls for more dogs to be assessed through BPH or MH. There is therefore no support for the detailed Swedish BPH profiles sometimes presented in search results. Meet the parents and mature relatives instead. Watch how they recover after surprises, cope with noise and unfamiliar surroundings, greet people and dogs, and switch from work to rest.

High energy can lead to unruly behaviour when the dog does not understand what is expected. Simply trying to tire it out is not enough. Practise waiting calmly, handling, undisturbed sleep and settling between activities. Clear reward-based training builds cooperation without suppressing the dog's initiative in the field.

Life with children requires adult supervision, clear rules and a place where the dog can be left in peace. A lively youngster may knock over a small child despite being friendly. Cats may be compatible after a slow, controlled introduction, but a bird dog's hunting instinct makes outdoor behaviour less predictable. Birds, rabbits and small rodents must be capable of being kept physically separate. With other dogs, too, the individual, its experience and play style matter more than a general description of low aggression.

## Training & Exercise

The Brittany (Breton) needs gundog training and off-lead movement on suitable ground, not merely walks or a prescribed number of exercise hours. The Swedish Kennel Club's advice is clear: if hunting is not part of the plan, there are probably better breed choices. Dog sports, running and scent work are valuable additions, but do not automatically turn the breed into a purely companion dog.

During a hunt, the dog quarters for birds and adjusts to wind and terrain. On finding scent, it should hold a firm point. On command, it moves forward and flushes the bird, then must remain steady so that a safe shot can be taken. It should subsequently find, retrieve and deliver the bird, including from water. Quartering, stop, retrieve and cooperation are therefore trained as parts of the same job.

Build recall and a stop cue from an easy environment towards longer distances and harder distractions. Use a long line or enclosed ground to prevent the dog from pursuing wildlife. Cues reduce the risk but do not remove hunting instinct; near traffic, livestock and wildlife, a lead may be the only safe option.

No authoritative source provides a universal formula in minutes. Consider instead whether the dog uses its nose and body, can run safely, recovers well and settles at home. Develop a puppy's fitness, body awareness and stamina gradually. Adapt longer runs, pulling work and other repetitive exercise to age, health and training history.

Keep the dog physically and mentally fit before the season rather than trying to condition it rapidly when hunting begins. After a demanding day it needs water, food and sleep, as well as checks of its paws, skin, claws and movement.

## Health

The Brittany (Breton) is covered by a mandatory Swedish hip dysplasia, or HD, programme. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026, both parents must have a known official HD result before mating. A dog graded HD E must not be used for breeding. Under the general rule, a dog graded D may only be mated to a dog graded A or B, and a dog with clinical signs must not be bred from regardless of its radiographic result.

The Swedish Brittany club's rules for puppy advertisements are stricter: both parents must be graded HD A or B, and the litter's estimated HD index must be at least 100 when an index is available. The club also requires field-trial and show results. These club requirements are not the same as the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules.

HD is complex. Two dogs with A or B hips can still produce offspring with dysplasia. Ask about the parents' results, the litter's index and hip results in siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. Official HD radiographs can be taken from 12 months of age.

LTV is a congenital change at the junction of the lumbar spine and sacrum. A Norwegian study of HD radiographs from 14 breeds included 835 Brittanys and found LTV in 46.2 per cent of the sample. Types 2 and 3 were statistically associated with mild and severe HD. That figure is neither the Swedish prevalence nor an individual dog's risk of illness.

Sweden has no mandatory LTV programme for the Brittany (Breton), and the prevalence and clinical significance in the country are uncertain. The breed club encourages voluntary spinal radiographs alongside HD screening. Ask which relatives have been examined, how the images were assessed and how the results influenced the mating.

Eyes and epilepsy also call for specific but measured questions. The Swedish Kennel Club does not require an eye examination for registration, but the breed club's advertising rules exclude parents with certain confirmed forms of inherited cataract. Ask to see any eye certificates. The Swedish breeding strategy says the number of reliably diagnosed cases of idiopathic epilepsy is unknown and probably very small; a diagnosed dog must not be used for breeding. Ask about confirmed seizures and diagnoses in the family rather than accepting a vague assurance that the line is “healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Brittany (Breton) was developed in Brittany in north-western France during the 1800s through crosses between setter-type dogs and local spaniel types. The first standard was established by the French breed club in 1908. Those facts are well documented; more detailed stories about named foundation dogs, a precise date or individual British shooting parties require their own evidence and are not central to the breed's history.

The breed was shaped as a compact pointing dog capable of finding game, pointing, advancing on command and retrieving. Its hunting function is therefore not a historical extra but the basis of both its structure and temperament.

The Brittany (Breton) reached Sweden via Norway. The first Norwegian dogs were imported from the United States in 1954, and the first dog arrived in Sweden in 1958. Today, its Swedish field work and breeding are overseen within the specialist club for Continental pointing dogs and the Swedish Brittany club.

## Living with the Breed

A Brittany (Breton) can live in a flat if its routine meets the needs of a working bird dog. The size of the home cannot replace suitable ground, safe off-lead movement, gundog training and recovery. Long working days away from home require a sustainable arrangement for exercise, company and supervision.

Time alone should be taught gradually, not judged against a supposed breed limit expressed as a number of hours. Begin when the dog has been out and is calm, leave for a short time, and extend it only when the dog genuinely settles. A camera can reveal pacing, barking, howling, destructive behaviour or an inability to take food. If the dog shows clear distress, reduce the difficulty and seek professional help if needed.

After work, check for wounds, grass seeds, ticks, cracked pads, damaged claws and tenderness. Dry a wet dog, examine its ears and watch for any change in movement after rest. This is more useful than following a fixed timetable for bathing and ear cleaning.

Before buying a puppy, the breeder should be able to answer the following questions clearly:

- How are the parents used in practical shooting, and what do their field-trial results show about quartering, pointing, cooperation and retrieving?
- What are the parents' official HD results, what is the litter's index, and what hip results are recorded for close relatives?
- Have spinal radiographs for LTV or eye examinations been carried out, and what do the results and their limitations mean?
- Is there confirmed epilepsy, cataract, spinal disease or a pattern of recurring injury in the family?
- How do the parents react to noise, surprises, unfamiliar people and dogs, and how quickly do they recover?
- How have the puppies experienced people, surfaces, sounds, rest and handling, and how have they been introduced safely to the first elements of field work and home life?

Choose a Brittany (Breton) if you want to work with a pointing dog, have access to the right environment and value training that combines a wide-ranging search with reliable handler contact. This gives the breed's energy, intelligence and willingness to cooperate a clear purpose.

Brittany (Breton)

Verein für Britische Hütehunde (Germany)

The Brittany (Épagneul Breton) is a compact, athletic French gundog with a short or bobbed tail and easy‑care coat. Affectionate, sensitive, and highly energetic, it needs substantial daily exercise and gentle, positive training, thriving as both an active family companion and versatile hunting dog.

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