## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Trude Thoresen

Anne Lise Staupe Gaard

Ann Kristin Iversen

## Quick Facts

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a British companion and toy dog that combines a small frame with a lively, sociable nature. It usually wants to stay close to people, but it needs more than a lap and a few brief toilet walks.

- The breed standard gives a weight of 5.5–8 kg. It does not specify a height; the Swedish Kennel Club describes approximately 30–35 cm as usual.
- The coat is long and silky. The four recognised colours are black and tan, ruby, Blenheim and tricolour.
- The breed ideal is a happy, friendly, affectionate and fearless dog. Individual dogs can still differ markedly in energy, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- A Cavalier needs physical activity, scent work, training and social contact every day. No single exercise target in minutes is meaningful for every dog.
- Health calls for particular care. In Sweden, the breed is covered by a mandatory heart screening programme for breeding, while several other examinations are breed-club recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel should be small, well balanced and free-moving, with a gentle expression. The skull should be almost flat between the ears. The eyes are large, dark and round without being prominent, and the high-set ears are long and heavily feathered. The standard specifies a weight of 5.5–8 kg but no exact height. The figure of 30–35 cm is therefore a usual guide, not a height requirement.

The coat should be long and silky without curls; a slight wave is permitted. There is feathering on the ears, legs, feet and tail. The four colours are:

- **Black and tan:** black with clearly defined tan markings.
- **Ruby:** a solid, deep red.
- **Blenheim:** rich chestnut markings on a pearly white ground.
- **Tricolour:** black and white with tan markings.

The coat needs regular combing, particularly behind the ears, where the soft hair tangles easily. Check the feathering around the feet after walks as well. The standard calls for a natural, untrimmed coat, although thick hair beneath and between the pads may need tidying to prevent felted mats. Gently accustom a puppy to the comb, to having its paws handled and to having its ears and eyes checked; this makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

No dog breed is free of allergens, and the Cavalier is no exception. Dog allergens mainly come from the skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals. Anyone with allergy symptoms should therefore not assess the risk from coat length or breed name alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was bred for companionship and is generally open, affectionate and sociable. The breed standard describes a happy, friendly dog without aggression or nervousness, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

Results from Swedish BPH behaviour assessments provide a more nuanced picture. In an analysis of 192 Swedish-bred Cavaliers, the breed was mainly confident and did not generally react aggressively in social encounters. The average dog was not considered vocal either, although some dogs barked or whined in situations where this was not expected. There is genuine variation behind the breed description. If possible, meet the puppy's mother, ask how both parents behave in daily life and find out whether fear, stress or resource guarding occurs in close relatives.

The breed often fits well into family life and is generally sociable with other dogs. The same safety rules that apply to every dog still apply around young children: an adult should be present, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should learn not to carry the dog, pull its ears or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. Living with a cat depends on the individual dog, previous experience and a calm introduction; the breed name offers no guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

A Cavalier needs to move and use its brain every day, but the right amount depends on age, health, fitness and recovery rather than a fixed number of minutes. A healthy adult can combine walks and off-lead movement in a secure place with scent games, play and short training sessions. Many enjoy obedience, rally obedience or agility at a level suited to the individual.

Short, positive sessions make it easier to maintain focus. Start early with engagement, walking together and recall, and reward the dog for choosing you despite scents and other distractions. Even a companion dog with spaniel ancestry can become absorbed by something interesting outdoors, so use a long line until recall is reliable in that particular environment.

Puppies need to explore, play and rest at their own pace. Avoid generic five-minute rules and instead build activity gradually without pushing a tired puppy. A dog with a heart murmur, heart disease, pain or neurological signs needs an individual plan from a veterinary surgeon.

## Health

Heart health is the most important breed-specific check for a puppy buyer in Sweden. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is particularly predisposed to myxomatous mitral valve disease, or MMVD. The valve between the left atrium and ventricle changes so that blood may leak backwards and produce a heart murmur. A dog can have the disease without visible signs for a long time, while others later develop heart failure.

The breed is covered by a level 3 heart screening programme. To meet the registration rules for the offspring, both parents must have an official certificate showing no heart murmur. The certificate must be no more than 12 months old at the time of mating, and the minimum age for an official heart certificate is three years. This is a minimum standard, not proof that a mating is free from risk. Ask for the parents' registration numbers, check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata services, and consider how long older close relatives remained free of murmurs. The breed club recommends annual heart examinations from the age of three until a murmur is detected, including for dogs no longer used for breeding.

Chiari-like malformation and syringomyelia, CM/SM, are another important health concern. When the skull is too small in relation to the brain, the flow of cerebrospinal fluid may be disrupted and a fluid-filled cavity can form within the spinal cord. Some dogs with mild findings show no clear signs. Others experience pain, become sensitive around the head or neck, are reluctant to move, scratch at the air near the neck, or show weakness and poorer coordination. A veterinary surgeon should assess such signs. MRI can be used in breeding selection, but it is a breed-club recommendation and should not be confused with the mandatory heart programme. Ask the breeder about clinical signs and MRI results in the parents and close relatives.

The Swedish breed club also recommends eye examinations and patellar luxation checks for breeding dogs once they are at least one year old. The distinction matters here too: these are recommended checks, not the same registration requirement as the heart certificate. A buyer therefore needs to distinguish between formal requirements, breed-club recommendations and the combined results seen across the family.

## History & Origins

The modern Cavalier King Charles Spaniel originated in Great Britain and is closely associated with the small spaniels seen in European paintings over several centuries. The dogs gained their royal name through their connection with the House of Stuart and Charles II in particular.

As the short-muzzled type became fashionable, the King Charles Spaniel changed. In 1926, the American Roswell Eldridge offered prizes at Crufts for dogs resembling the older type, with a longer muzzle and flatter skull. A British breed club was founded in 1928, and in 1945 The Kennel Club recognised the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as a separate breed.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and the King Charles Spaniel are therefore not two names for the same dog. They are separate breeds with a shared background, and the Cavalier was developed to recapture more of the older spaniel type.

## Living with the Breed

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel can live well in either a flat or a house if it receives company, walks, mental activity and undisturbed rest. The size of the home is no substitute for a suitable daily routine. The breed can also suit a first-time owner who is prepared to train, care for the coat and take health screening seriously; its small size does not make it automatically low-maintenance.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, once the puppy feels secure at home. Step away for very short periods and increase the duration only when the dog can relax. Whining, persistent barking, destructive behaviour, refusing food or toileting indoors can be signs of distress. Individual dogs cope with different amounts of time alone, so arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more separation than your dog can comfortably manage.

Three checks are particularly valuable before buying a puppy:

1. Check the parents' current heart certificates and the results of older relatives in the Swedish Kennel Club's public records.
2. Ask separately about CM/SM signs and MRI, as well as eye and patella examinations; do not confuse these recommendations with the heart programme requirements.
3. Assess the parents' everyday temperament and how the puppies have been introduced to people, handling and a home environment.

These checks provide a more realistic picture than relying on the breed's friendly reputation alone. A carefully chosen Cavalier can be an engaged and very close companion, but it needs an owner who takes both its social needs and documented health risks seriously.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club UK

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Small, gentle spaniel (5.4–8 kg) with a silky medium coat in Blenheim, Tricolour, Black and Tan, or Ruby. Affectionate, people oriented, and good with children and other pets. Needs regular grooming, moderate exercise, and dislikes long periods alone.

Irene Meland

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Connie Helene Sæther

## Quick Facts

The Boxer is a sociable, energetic and physically powerful working breed that thrives when it can play an active part in family life. It suits someone who wants to devote time to shared exercise, training and play every day, and who enjoys an expressive dog with a strong desire for company and plenty of initiative.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Role:** Working, companion and guard dog
- **Size:** males 57–63 cm and around 30 kg; females 53–59 cm and around 25 kg
- **Coat:** very short, fawn or brindle with a black mask; white markings may occur
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for both physical exercise and purposeful tasks
- **Lifespan:** roughly 9–11 years is a broad guide

The important question is not whether you like the Boxer's appearance, but whether you want to live with a lively, powerful dog that needs guidance. In an active household, a Boxer can be a close, playful and willing companion. It is less suitable for someone looking for a low-energy, independent dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Boxer is a medium-sized, compact dog with a square outline, strong bone and clearly defined muscles. It should look athletic without appearing heavy or cumbersome. The distinctive head has a broad muzzle, a black mask and a natural undershot bite. The muzzle is short, but its proportions should be balanced and the nostrils open; an extremely short muzzle is not the aim.

Males usually stand 57–63 cm at the withers and weigh around 30 kg. Females stand 53–59 cm and weigh around 25 kg. That is enough dog for pulling on the lead, jumping up and unruly greetings to become difficult to manage if training is postponed.

The coat is short, hard, glossy and close-fitting. The base colour is fawn in various shades or brindle, always with a black mask. Small white markings may be present. Entirely or predominantly white dogs do occur, but white is not an accepted colour under the breed standard. When choosing a dog, health and temperament matter more than its markings.

Coat care is straightforward. Brush during periods of heavier shedding, bathe when needed and wipe the paws after wet walks. The short coat makes the skin easy to inspect, so check for redness, itching, sores and new lumps. Examine the ears, nails and teeth regularly too. Nails should be trimmed when they grow too long, and persistent skin or ear problems should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Boxer is sociable, alert, curious and playful. It seeks contact and likes to be wherever the family is, while retaining the watchfulness and confidence of a working dog. Many keep a youthful, physical style of play well into adulthood.

A Boxer can fit very well into an active family with children, but “good with children” is never a guarantee for an individual dog. The breed is strong, quick and often exuberant when excited. Small children can be knocked over accidentally, and play between a dog and a child should always be supervised by an adult. Teach calm greetings, settling on a bed or mat and ending a game from an early age.

Relationships with other dogs vary. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that aggression towards other dogs occurs within the breed, and encounters with other dogs are an everyday challenge for some Boxer owners. This does not mean that Boxers are generally unsociable. It does mean that controlled social training, lead handling and the ability to disengage from other dogs deserve serious attention. Match playmates to the individual and its style of play; a Boxer's physical play may be too intense for small or cautious dogs.

Some Boxers are open with strangers, while others are more reserved. Early, thoughtful socialisation gives the dog experience of people, places, surfaces and everyday sounds without turning every encounter into a greeting. The aim is a confident dog that can remain neutral when the situation calls for it.

## Training & Exercise

A Boxer needs to move and use its brain every day. Short toilet walks alone are not enough for a healthy adult, but the same time target will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, temperature, breathing and health should determine the workload. A good week includes a mix of walks in varied surroundings, free movement in a secure area, play and tasks such as tracking, search work, obedience or other dog sports.

Use reward-based methods. Reward the behaviour you want to see more often with food, play or social contact, and set up each exercise so the dog can succeed. Harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary. Short, focused sessions often suit a lively dog, but variety and a clear daily routine matter most.

Prioritise the skills that make a powerful dog easy to live with:

- walking on a loose lead
- returning when called and stopping play when asked
- passing dogs and people while paying attention to the handler
- greeting with all four paws on the ground
- leaving items and waiting at doors
- switching from activity to rest in a designated place

Lead walking, recall, encounters with other dogs and exuberant greetings were recurring challenges in the Swedish Boxer Club's 2025 owner survey. A puppy or adolescent training class can therefore provide useful help early on. Adapt exercise while the dog is growing and increase duration and intensity gradually instead of immediately taking a young dog running or cycling.

## Health

When choosing a Boxer and breeder, examine the health background carefully. Conditions found in the breed include hip dysplasia, spondylosis, renal dysplasia, knee problems in older dogs, and skin disease and allergies. Heart disease and tumours are also important areas in the breed's health programme. A Swedish study of insured dogs also found a markedly increased risk of mast cell tumours in Boxers.

The Boxer is short-muzzled, but not every Boxer has brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS. Even so, obvious breathing noise, laboured breathing, poor recovery or heat intolerance should not be dismissed as normal for the breed. The Boxer is included in special show guidance that draws attention to breathing, muzzle length and skin. Since May 2026, Boxers in Sweden have also been eligible for the standardised RFG-S breathing assessment. The test can provide more information about a dog's breathing, but it is not a general mandatory breeding requirement for the Boxer.

Ask a breeder to explain the results rather than simply saying that the parents have been “tested”:

- Check the parents' official hip dysplasia results and ask about the planned litter's HD index. The Swedish Boxer Club's strategy cites the Swedish Kennel Club recommendation that the estimated litter index should exceed 100.
- Review the parents' MH temperament assessment results and ask how close relatives behave in everyday life.
- Ask for a heart examination. The breed club recommends auscultation by a specialist or Doppler/ultrasound for both parents.
- Ask for spondylosis radiographs taken after 24 months of age, as recommended by the breed club.
- Ask whether RFG-S has been completed, and listen to the dogs' breathing yourself at rest and after light activity.
- Ask the breeder about cancer, kidney disease, skin problems, knees and longevity among close relatives.

Keep the dog lean and build fitness gradually. Seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, unusually increased thirst or urination, new or changing lumps, or clear breathing difficulty. Early checks cannot remove genetic risk, but they improve the chance of finding a problem promptly.

## History & Origins

The Boxer was developed in Germany from local dog types during the nineteenth century. Its closest documented ancestor is the Brabanter Bullenbeisser, a German bulldog type that worked with hunters. Its task was to seize and hold game driven towards it until the hunter arrived, which explains the importance of the broad muzzle and powerful jaws.

The modern Boxer became a versatile working, guard and companion dog. The first breed standard was published in 1902. The origin of the name Boxer has not been established with certainty, so the idea that it comes from the dog's use of its front paws in play should be treated as a story rather than documented fact.

The breed's background can still be seen in its enthusiasm for work, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate. A modern Boxer does not have to train in a particular discipline, but it benefits from regularly solving tasks alongside its handler.

## Living with the Breed

A Boxer can live in a flat, a terraced house or a detached house; the daily plan matters more than the amount of floor space. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, training and experience of different surroundings. Indoors, the dog needs to learn how to settle. Otherwise, the family may find themselves living with a large, highly aroused dog that continually invents its own activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that some Boxers struggle to be left alone, so arrange a dog sitter or other help if working days are long. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings. Six hours is the interval in that guidance, not an assurance that every Boxer is comfortable being alone for that long.

Plan around the weather too. The Boxer's short coat provides limited protection in cold conditions, while the short muzzle calls for extra care in heat. Dogs affected by BOAS may find it harder to regulate their body temperature. Schedule more strenuous activity for cooler parts of a hot day, provide water and shade, and stop if breathing or recovery differs from normal. In cold weather, watch how the dog moves, whether its coat is wet and whether it shows discomfort when deciding if a coat is needed.

The Boxer is best suited to a family that can answer yes to four questions: Do we want to give the dog purposeful activity every day? Can we teach calm behaviour and everyday manners consistently? Do we have a sustainable plan for time alone? Are we prepared to examine health and breathing as carefully as temperament and appearance? If the answer is yes, the breed's energy, humour and strong desire for contact can become its greatest strengths in daily life.

Boxer

The Boxer Club UK

Boxer Klub e.V. Germany

Svenska Boxerklubben (Swedish Boxer Club)

The Boxer is a medium‑large, athletic dog with a short coat and expressive, broad head. Lively, playful, and people‑oriented, it bonds closely with families and is often gentle with children. Energetic and protective, it needs consistent training, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Dragana Duric Hansen

Torild Berntsen Sunde

## Quick Facts

The Border Collie is a British sheepdog for someone who wants to work with, train and give their dog meaningful tasks throughout its life. The breed is highly trainable and has great stamina, but those same qualities often make it more demanding than a dog bred primarily for companionship.

- **Dog type:** purebred sheepdog, recognised by the FCI in Group 1
- **Size:** medium; the ideal height for males is about 53 cm, with females usually slightly shorter
- **Weight:** approximately 12–20 kg, with variation according to sex and build
- **Life expectancy:** approximately 10–15 years
- **Coat:** smooth or moderately long double coat in many colours
- **Typical traits:** alert, biddable, responsive, intelligent and strongly motivated to work
- **Best suited to:** a committed owner who enjoys regular training and can teach both activity and rest

The key question before buying is not whether the family walks for a set number of hours, but whether daily life allows time for regular training and cooperation. A Border Collie needs to use its brain, express its herding instincts in controlled ways and also learn to settle at home.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Collie is an athletic, well-balanced dog, built for agility and sustained work rather than for a uniform appearance. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, smooth and efficient. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 53 cm for males and slightly less for females, although both size and build vary noticeably within the breed.

The standard describes two coat varieties: smooth and moderately long. Both have a dense, medium-textured outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat that provides weather resistance. The moderately long coat forms more of a mane, breeching and brush, while the smooth coat lies closer to the body. Many colours and markings occur; black and white and tricolour are common, but the standard permits considerable variety provided white does not predominate.

The coat is basically straightforward to maintain. Brush as often as needed to remove loose undercoat and prevent matting, particularly behind the ears and in areas of feathering. More frequent brushing is needed during periods of heavier shedding. Bathe when necessary. A dog that works or trains outdoors should also be checked afterwards: examine the paws, nails, skin and coat for injuries, grass awns, ticks and debris.

## Temperament & Personality

The Border Collie is attentive, cooperative and extremely quick to notice patterns. It therefore learns not only what its owner intends to teach, but also which sounds predict a walk, how people normally move and which behaviours produce a response. Highly trainable does not automatically mean easy to live with; unclear routines and accidental rewards can establish behaviour just as quickly as considered training.

Herding depends on the dog noticing and influencing movement. In everyday life without sheep, the same sensitivity can be directed towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals. Staring, stalking, cutting off a path and chasing are signals to address early. They should be interrupted calmly and replaced with a trained alternative, not encouraged as an amusing quirk.

A Border Collie can live successfully in a family, but the breed is not universally “good with children” regardless of the individual and environment. Running, shouting and fast play can trigger herding behaviour or stress. Children and dogs therefore need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Living with a cat or other dogs can also work, especially with thoughtful introductions, but cannot be guaranteed on the basis of breed alone. The cat should be able to withdraw and the dog should be taught to leave it alone.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Collie needs both physical activity and tasks requiring concentration every day, but it is not possible to specify a number of hours that suits every individual. Age, health, temperament, previous training and work determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates movement, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery.

Walks in varied surroundings, free movement where it is safe, scent work, obedience, tracking, herding and other dog sports engage the dog in different ways. Choose activities in which the dog must listen and make decisions, not merely run quickly. Endless ball throwing or other highly arousing repetition is a poor measure of whether the dog’s needs have been met; it can increase anticipation without teaching the dog to settle.

Keep training sessions short, clear and reward based. Give everyday skills such as recall, lead walking, stopping at a distance and disengaging from movement as much attention as tricks or competitive exercises. Reward calm behaviour too: lying in a designated place, waiting while something happens and sleeping after activity. A Border Collie that is always offered more high-speed activity can become extremely fit without learning how to rest.

Puppies and young dogs need controlled experiences, not a miniature version of an adult training schedule. Build confidence in different environments, allow the body to mature and increase physical load and difficulty gradually. If the dog becomes more scattered, noise-sensitive or fixated despite receiving more activity, the answer may be a better balance and professional help rather than still harder exercise.

## Health

The Border Collie is regarded as comparatively healthy, but the breed has documented conditions that a puppy buyer should understand. Hip dysplasia (HD), Collie eye anomaly (CEA), other retinal changes, epilepsy and osteochondrosis affecting mainly the shoulder are among the areas highlighted by the Swedish Kennel Club and the Swedish Sheepdog Society.

When assessing a Swedish-registered litter, start by checking the parents’ official hip status and eye examination. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, the eye result must be recorded before mating and would normally be no more than one year old. Check the registered results and also ask about epilepsy, recurring seizures, shoulder problems and early deaths among siblings, parents and other close relatives. Normal results for two parents do not describe the health of an entire family line.

DNA tests are available for several inherited conditions in the breed, including CEA, IGS, TNS and sensory neuropathy. Which tests are relevant depends on ancestry and current recommendations. Ask the breeder to explain what has been tested and why. For recessive diseases, a healthy carrier is not the same as an affected dog; what matters is planning the mating so puppies cannot inherit the disease variant from both parents. A DNA test does not replace a clinical eye examination, joint results or knowledge of the wider family.

A dog with Border Collie collapse (BCC) may be completely symptom-free at rest but become disorientated, unsteady or fall during or shortly after intense activity. The dog may appear to recover after 5–30 minutes, but any collapse must be taken seriously and assessed by a vet. BCC is not the same as ordinary fatigue, heatstroke or the dynamin-1-related EIC variant more commonly seen in Labrador Retrievers. Stop the activity immediately if the dog’s focus or movement changes abnormally.

## History & Origins

The Border Collie developed in the border country between England and Scotland as a working dog for sheep farming. Selection was based for a long time on practical herding ability: the dog needed to read livestock, work at a distance and respond to its handler’s signals in demanding conditions. This functional background explains the breed’s eye, stalking movement, endurance and strong drive to control movement.

The FCI recognises the Border Collie as a British sheepdog subject to a working trial. In Sweden, function also has an unusually explicit place in registration. The breed is entered in the Swedish Kennel Club’s dedicated sheepdog register, REG V, and a Swedish-born Border Collie can only be registered when both parents have passed a herding trial held by Svenska Vallhundsklubben (SVaK) or have an approved equivalent qualification from abroad. Appearance can consequently vary more than in many other breeds, while working ability remains central to the Swedish breeding model.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Border Collie requires planning, but not constant entertainment. The goal is a dog that can work with focus when needed and rest when nothing is happening. That balance is best suited to a home where someone genuinely enjoys dog training and where responsibility does not depend on children exercising the dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically ruled out, and a large garden does not guarantee a good life. Access to suitable training environments, safe exercise and a routine that can genuinely be maintained matter more. In a busy area, the owner must be able to manage traffic, bicycles, runners, sounds and encounters without the dog becoming stuck in herding or constant vigilance.

Time alone should be trained gradually, beginning with very short periods and adjusted to the dog’s age and reactions. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a promise that a dog will be comfortable alone for that long. Consider filming early sessions and step back if the dog paces, pants, barks, damages things or cannot settle. A routine involving repeated long working days without help is a poor starting point for this breed.

Before buying a Swedish puppy, check at least three things for both parents: a registered hip status, a valid eye result and a pass in an approved herding trial. Then ask about epilepsy and joint health in close relatives, relevant DNA tests, how the parents behave both at rest and at work, and what support the breeder provides after the purchase. The best match is not about finding the “cleverest” puppy, but choosing one whose temperament and working drive suit what you can offer throughout the dog’s life.

Border Collie

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Border Collie is a medium, athletic herding dog known for intense focus, high intelligence and very high energy. Developed to work sheep all day, it excels in herding, sports and training. It needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and structured guidance in an active home.

Cecilie Tønnessen-Vestbø

Nina Farevåg

Torunn Osen

Erlend Kvinnesland

Linnea Van Der Weck

Kersti Winger

Belgian Shepherd Tervuren

Belgian Shepherd Dog Association of Great Britain

Société Royale Saint-Hubert (Belgium)

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Belgian Shepherd Tervuren is an intelligent, medium‑large herding dog with a rich long coat and alert, elegant build. Loyal and people‑oriented, it needs daily physical and mental exercise, regular brushing, and kind, consistent training to thrive as an active family companion.

Anne Grethe Larsen

## Quick Facts

- The Bernese Mountain Dog is a large Swiss farm dog originally used for guarding, draught work and driving cattle. Today, it is primarily a companion and versatile working dog.
- Males stand 64–70 cm at the withers, with 66–68 cm preferred. Females stand 58–66 cm, with 60–63 cm preferred. The breed standard does not specify a weight.
- The breed should be self-confident, attentive, good-natured and devoted to its family, as well as friendly towards strangers.
- An adult needs substantial activity every day. Puppies and young dogs should not be given structured conditioning work or heavy physical loads.
- The long double coat normally needs a thorough brush each week, and more often during moulting.
- In Sweden, both parents must have official hip and elbow results before mating. The HS test for histiocytic sarcoma estimates risk; it does not say that a dog is healthy or affected.
- Tumours and low longevity are the breed's most serious health concerns. The lifespan and documented causes of death among relatives therefore matter when choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bernese Mountain Dog is large and powerful, but it should also be mobile, harmonious and well balanced. Its body is roughly ten per cent longer than its height at the withers and should look compact rather than elongated. A heavy outline is not the same as correct breed type: the dog should move freely and carry its size without being overweight.

Males should stand 64–70 cm, ideally 66–68 cm. Females should stand 58–66 cm, ideally 60–63 cm. The breed standard gives no weight range. Assess an adult by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead of aiming for a particular number on the scales.

The head should be powerful without being too heavy. The eyes are dark brown and almond-shaped, and the ears are medium-sized and triangular. The bushy tail reaches at least to the hock and hangs down when the dog is relaxed, but may rise to the level of the back when moving.

The coat is long and glossy, either straight or slightly wavy. The base colour is jet black, with rich rust markings on the cheeks, above the eyes, on the legs and on the chest. White appears in places including a symmetrical blaze and the throat and chest. White feet and a white tail tip are desirable, but symmetry of markings says nothing about a dog's health.

The Swedish Kennel Club's breed guide recommends brushing or combing once a week and daily during moulting. Adapt this to the individual dog and the season. Work down to the skin and check behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where tangles can hide. At the same time, feel for lumps, tenderness and changes to the skin.

Schedule longer summer activities for cooler parts of the day, provide shade and water, and let the dog rest if it is not recovering normally. Never leave a dog in a hot car, even in the shade or with a window partly open.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Bernese Mountain Dog should be confident, good-natured and biddable, not fearful or aggressive. The standard also describes an attentive, watchful dog that is devoted to its family and friendly towards strangers. This is a breeding and temperament goal, not a guarantee for every puppy or every situation.

The breed is often sociable and willing to cooperate, but a boisterous adolescent of this size can knock over a child, pull an adult off balance or crowd a visitor without any aggressive intent. From an early age, teach four paws on the floor, calm greetings, loose-lead walking and settling in a designated place.

Socialisation does not mean making the puppy greet everyone. Offer calm experiences of people, dogs, traffic, surfaces, handling and different environments, while allowing it to watch from a distance. Repeated fearfulness should be taken seriously rather than dismissed as the breed being “sensitive”.

A Bernese Mountain Dog can live successfully with children and other animals, but the individual and the introduction make the difference. Children should not climb on the dog or disturb it when sleeping. The dog needs a quiet resting place, and an adult should always supervise interactions between dogs and young children.

## Training & Exercise

An adult Bernese Mountain Dog needs proper exercise and meaningful activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes. Adapt the amount to age, body condition, health, fitness, surface and temperature. Walks with time to sniff, everyday training, scent work and play create a better routine than simply trying to exhaust the dog.

For puppies and young dogs, the Swedish Kennel Club distinguishes natural movement from deliberate exercise. Let the dog move at its own pace and rest when needed. Planned runs, repeated jumping and heavy draught work should wait until the dog is physically mature. Do not rely on a simple five-minute rule; adjust activity according to the dog's movement, fatigue and recovery.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions work well. Prioritise skills that become difficult to teach only after the dog has reached its full size:

- walking on a loose lead and turning with the handler
- greeting without jumping up or leaning its full weight against someone
- recall and engagement around distractions
- waiting at doorways and getting calmly in and out of the car
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat

The breed's heritage can be channelled into scent work, obedience, rally, carrying a dog pack, or the breed club's draught and working tests. Pulling a load requires suitable equipment, gradual preparation and a physically mature, healthy dog.

## Health

Health and longevity must carry considerable weight when choosing a Bernese Mountain Dog. The current Swedish breeding strategy identifies tumours as the breed's greatest health problem and shows that low longevity remains an issue. Even so, nobody can promise how many years an individual dog will live.

In the Swedish insurance mortality data for 2016–2021 reported in the breeding strategy, the median age was 5.5 years. In a Swiss study of club-registered dogs born in 2001–2002, median survival was 8.4 years. The populations, periods and methods differ, so these figures are not the same kind of forecast. They show why health and longevity in close relatives are more useful than one general range.

Tumours accounted for more than half of deaths in both a Swiss and a Dutch study. Histiocytic sarcoma is the tumour type specifically targeted by the breed's health programme. The HS test places dogs in lower, average or higher genetic risk groups relative to the breed. It is not a diagnostic test: a lower-risk dog may still develop the disease, while a higher-risk dog may remain healthy.

HSIMS estimates the risk of a proposed mating from the parents' HS results. It must be considered alongside longevity, other aspects of health, relatedness and function. Selecting solely for the lowest risk would reduce genetic diversity. The Swedish breeding strategy recommends HS testing, but it is not required for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. Since 2025, however, the Swedish Sennenhund Club's puppy-listing service has required both parents to be tested.

Both parents must have official hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. Dogs with HD grades D or E and ED grades 2 or 3 must not be used. The breeding strategy also recommends parents free from ED and a combined HD and ED index above 100. An index of 100 is the breed average and incorporates information from relatives, so indices and the results of screened littermates reveal more than one isolated result.

Renal dysplasia, or RD, is a serious developmental kidney disorder that mainly affects young dogs. Confirmed cases are recorded centrally, and a definitive diagnosis requires examination of kidney tissue. Familial nephropathy is another documented kidney disease and more often affects young adults. There is no simple DNA test that can show that a proposed mating is free from the inherited risk behind these diseases.

Ask the breeder to show and explain:

- the parents' official hip and elbow results and the proposed mating's current indices
- how many littermates and previous offspring have been screened, and their results
- HS results and how HSIMS and genetic diversity have been taken into account
- kidney disease, tumour diagnoses, longevity and verified causes of death among parents, siblings and older relatives

## History & Origins

The Bernese Mountain Dog has a documented history as a farm dog in the Alpine region around Bern, Switzerland. It guarded farms, pulled loads and helped with cattle. The dogs were known as Dürrbächler after the Dürrbach inn near Riggisberg, where the long-haired, tricoloured type was common.

Dürrbächler dogs were shown at dog shows in 1902, 1904 and 1907. In November 1907, breeders around Burgdorf founded the Schweizerischen Dürrbach-Klub to breed the dogs to a consistent type and define their characteristics. The name Bernese Mountain Dog was later established in relation to the other Swiss mountain dog breeds.

The claim that the breed descends from Roman mastiffs is often repeated, but it is not part of the securely documented history. The reliable account centres on the local farm dog around Bern, its work in guarding, draught and cattle handling, and the organised development of the breed in the early twentieth century.

## Living with the Breed

A Bernese Mountain Dog needs practical space in daily life, not just enough floor area. Flat living can work, but check the stairs, lift, slippery floors, access to suitable walking areas and how an ill dog could be transported. A garden is useful, but it does not replace walks and shared activity.

Plan for a large bed, a car and harness that can accommodate the dog, food, insurance and somewhere to dry a wet coat. Add non-slip surfaces where needed. It is better to solve these practical issues while the dog is young than when it is in pain.

Time alone must be trained to suit the individual. Begin with very short separations while the dog is settled, and increase them only when it can lie down and relax. Persistent whining, pacing, panting or scratching shows that the step was too difficult. The breed's devotion does not prove that it will have separation problems, but nor does it guarantee that a dog can cope with a whole working day alone.

Introduce dogs and cats gradually. Keep them apart at first, let them become used to each other's scent, give the cat a dog-free place and prevent the dog from chasing. Brief meetings through a gate or with the dog on a lead can then be extended when both animals are relaxed. The same calm principle applies when meeting other dogs; the Bernese Mountain Dog's size makes early lead control particularly important.

A good breeder can discuss both strengths and problems in the family and provides documentation, not merely the names of tests. Choose a mating in which health, temperament, function and genetic diversity have been considered together. Openness about ill and deceased relatives is at least as valuable as good results for the parents.

Bernese Mountain Dog

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norway)

Deutscher Club für Berner Sennenhunde e.V. (Germany)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Large Swiss farm-bred dog with a strong, balanced build and a thick tricolour coat. Affectionate, people focused, and usually gentle with children. Needs moderate daily exercise, cool climates, regular grooming, and kind training. Health screening is crucial due to joint issues and cancers.

Anne Medrud

## Quick Facts

The Beagle is a sociable, enduring hunting dog that follows scent trails with great determination. Its manageable size makes the breed easy to take along, but its highly developed sense of smell, hunting instinct and voice require more planning than its size might suggest.

- **Origin:** Great Britain
- **Use:** A driving hound used to hunt species including hare, roe deer, deer and fox
- **Size:** 33–40 cm at the withers and usually 10–15 kg as an adult
- **Temperament:** Merry, open, lively and friendly, but also independent and persistent
- **Activity:** Needs daily physical exercise and regular opportunities to use its nose
- **Coat:** Short, dense and weather-resistant; easy to care for but sheds
- **Best suited to:** Someone who wants an active life with a sociable dog and can manage recall, noise and a keen appetite

## Appearance & Coat

The Beagle is a compact, sturdy dog that should look athletic without being coarse. Its body is well balanced, its legs are strong and its chest is developed for sustained work. The long, low-set ears lie close to the cheeks, while the strong tail is carried high when the dog is moving.

The breed standard gives a desirable height of 33–40 cm at the withers. According to Swedish breed guidance, an adult usually weighs 10–15 kg. Body condition matters more than the number on the scales: a well-muscled working dog and a less active companion may weigh differently despite being the same height.

The coat is short, dense and protective in bad weather. Black, tan and white tricolour is familiar, but the standard also permits several two-colour and mottled combinations. The tip of the tail must be white.

Coat care is straightforward. Regular brushing catches loose hair, particularly during heavier shedding. At the same time, check the skin, paws, nails and teeth. Drop ears can increase the risk of ear inflammation, but healthy ears should not be cleaned unnecessarily. Head shaking, scratching, redness, pain, unpleasant-smelling discharge or recurring trouble should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Beagle is friendly, lively and curious, with an even temperament and a keen desire to be involved. The breed was developed to work closely with people and other dogs and is often sociable at home. However, it was not bred to wait for instructions at every turn. A hunting Beagle must make its own decisions and persist with a trail, which can easily look like stubbornness in everyday life.

Many Beagles live happily with children and other dogs. This is a common breed tendency, not a promise about every individual or encounter. Children need to learn to leave the dog alone while it eats or rests, and an adult should always supervise interactions actively between a dog and young children.

Using its voice is part of the breed's work. A Beagle may bark or give a resonant hunting cry when following scent, becoming excited or seeking contact. The amount of noise varies. Adequate activity, thoughtful training for time alone and calm household routines can reduce unnecessary noise, but anyone who needs a completely quiet dog should choose another breed.

Food is often a powerful motivator. That can make reward-based training easier, but it also means that food on worktops, open bins and edible things found outdoors can quickly become a problem.

## Training & Exercise

The Beagle needs daily physical activity, mental training and, above all, purposeful scent work. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog: age, health, hunting, pace and other activities all affect the appropriate workload. A good routine includes walks with time to sniff, longer outings over varied ground and regular tasks that let the dog search or follow trails.

Blood tracking, human scent tracking, nosework and simple search games make excellent use of the breed's greatest strength. Owners interested in hunting can develop the Beagle's traditional work as a driving hound. In Sweden, the breed works alone when hunting hare, roe deer, deer and fox, while blood tracking can also build skills for finding wounded game. Not every individual suits every quarry; hunting style, speed and voice all matter.

Use rewards and increase difficulty gradually. Short sessions, clear cues and rewards the dog genuinely values are more effective than harsh corrections. Part of the daily food allowance can be used for training so that rewards do not add more calories than intended.

Recall deserves particular care. A Beagle that finds a fresh trail may value the scent more highly than its handler, even if recall works in a quiet setting. Begin without distractions, continue on a long line and increase the challenge only when the dog succeeds. Many Beagles need a long line or a securely enclosed area for greater freedom. Do not let the dog off near traffic or wildlife simply because recall worked the day before.

Teach the dog to settle as well. A Beagle that gets both purposeful work and rest is often easier to live with than one kept constantly busy.

## Health

The Beagle is generally considered a healthy breed, but uncommon diseases can still affect individual dogs. Swedish breed information mentions thyroid disorders, intervertebral disc disease, epilepsy, steroid-responsive meningitis-arteritis and hip dysplasia. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, known as RAS, also covers the inherited conditions Musladin–Lueke syndrome, or MLS, and Lafora epilepsy.

When speaking to a breeder, ask for specific answers:

- What are both parents' test results for MLS and Lafora? If one parent is a carrier, the other should be genetically clear under the breed's breeding strategy.
- Is there epilepsy, meningitis, back disease, a thyroid disorder or another recurring problem among close relatives?
- How have the parents' temperament and hunting ability been assessed?
- Which current recommendations and registration rules has the breeder followed for this particular mating?

Hip dysplasia occurs at a low frequency, but the Beagle has no breed-specific requirement for official hip status in the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules. Ask what the breeder has actually investigated and why instead of assuming that one generic testing list applies. Rules and recommendations can change from year to year.

Weight is an important everyday consideration. Measure food, include training rewards in the daily allowance and monitor the dog's body condition over time. Adjust the ration to age, work and activity level, and seek veterinary advice if weight rises or the dog needs an individual plan. Keep food, medicines and bins out of reach too; a food-loving Beagle can be both quick and inventive.

## History & Origins

The Beagle developed in Great Britain as a small driving hound for hunting on foot, particularly hare. The breed name has been documented since the fifteenth century, but the recognisable modern type was not established until the 1870s. In the British tradition, several Beagles worked together in a pack while the hunters followed on foot.

The first known Beagles in Sweden were shown in Gothenburg in 1891. Swedish breed development gathered pace when Svenska Beagleklubben, the national breed club, was founded in 1953. The work was adapted to the Nordic hunting tradition: instead of hunting in a pack, a Beagle normally works alone to search for, raise and drive game while giving voice.

That history is easy to recognise in today's dog. The nose close to the ground, endurance, independence and voice are not minor quirks separate from its role as a family companion. They are central to how the breed works and need a reasonable outlet even in a home where the dog does not hunt.

## Living with the Breed

The Beagle is best suited to a home that appreciates an active, sociable, scent-led dog and can plan for safety and noise. The daily routine matters more than the size of the home. Living in a flat can work if the dog receives suitable activity, can settle indoors and does not disturb the neighbours. In a building with poor sound insulation, be prepared for the breed's voice to become a problem.

A garden does not replace walks or purposeful work, and fencing must be secure. Away from an enclosed area, a well-fitting harness and long line are often more useful than hoping for perfect recall. Food and bins need to be stored where the dog cannot reach them.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, beginning with very short periods and taking account of the dog's age and response. Guidance from the Swedish Board of Agriculture says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often if they are puppies or older dogs. This is guidance about outings, not a statement that a particular dog can cope alone for that long. A Beagle that becomes anxious, howls or cannot settle needs smaller steps, more company and a routine better suited to that individual.

Cats can live in the same home, but introductions should be slow and controlled. The cat needs dog-free spaces and clear escape routes, and the dog must never be allowed to rehearse chasing it. Take particular care with rabbits, rodents and birds: the breed's hunting background means safe coexistence cannot be assumed.

Choose a Beagle if you want scent work to be part of daily life and enjoy an independent, enduring dog that makes itself heard. Choose another breed if you want a quiet dog that is easy to trust off the lead, is content with short walks or must routinely spend long working days alone.

Beagle

The Beagle Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Beagle is a small, sturdy scent hound with a short, shedding coat and a famous baying voice. Cheerful and curious, it’s usually friendly with children and other dogs. It needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, secure fencing, and weight control, but grooming is simple.

Aviatrix

Geir Håland

Setervollen

Iselin Paulsen

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Malinois is the short-coated variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. Under the FCI and the Swedish Kennel Club, the Malinois, Groenendael, Tervueren and Laekenois are four varieties of the same breed, distinguished chiefly by coat and colour.
- The Malinois is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog. The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females; the breed standard allows 2 cm below and 4 cm above the ideal.
- This is a watchful breed, quick in both thought and action, developed to work closely with people. Being quick to learn does not make a Malinois easy to live with: training also needs to develop calm behaviour, impulse control and recovery.
- A Malinois is best suited to someone who wants to train regularly and can provide both physical exercise and work for the nose and brain every day. Long walks alone rarely form a complete plan.
- Family dog, sport dog and service dog are not mutually exclusive roles, but the choice of breeder and litter matters greatly. Look at the parents’ everyday behaviour, temperament assessment, working achievements, health and previous offspring, not merely the breed name.

## Appearance & Coat

The Malinois should be medium-sized, square and powerful without looking heavy. Its body length should therefore be approximately equal to its height at the withers, rather than giving a distinctly long-bodied impression. The head is lean and well chiselled, the ears are small, triangular and erect, and movement should be light and lively.

The ideal height in the breed standard is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females, with a tolerance of 2 cm below and 4 cm above. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females. These figures describe an adult in normal condition; proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than a single reading on the scales.

The Malinois is short-coated. The hair is very short on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs, slightly fuller around the neck, thighs and tail, with a dense undercoat. The coat should be fawn with black overlay and a pronounced black mask. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes, but large white markings are outside the standard.

The coat does not require elaborate professional grooming. Brush it when hair is coming loose and bathe the dog when it is genuinely dirty. More frequent brushing is useful during shedding. After work in woodland, long grass or water, take the opportunity to check the skin, paws, nails and ears. The short coat makes inspection easy, but does not replace a regular hands-on check of the dog’s body.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Malinois is alert, active and very ready to act. At the same time, the breed ideal calls for a confident dog without fear or aggression. High intensity is not the same as poor emotional control, and a dog that is constantly stressed is not more typical simply because it is fast.

There is considerable variation between individuals. The Swedish Kennel Club tells prospective owners to expect differences both between the varieties and between individual dogs. A label such as “working, service or show line” is therefore not enough on which to base a decision. Ask to see how the parents greet people, recover after a surprise, accept handling, pass other dogs and settle when nothing is happening. Read the full Mentalbeskrivning Hund (MH), the Swedish working-dog temperament description, and ask how siblings and previous offspring cope with ordinary life.

A well-matched and well-managed Malinois can live successfully with children, but its speed and rapid reactions call for adult supervision. Children and dog should each have an undisturbed resting place, and boisterous games should stop before the dog begins to chase movement or becomes too aroused. Young children should never be responsible for training or walks. The same caution applies around cats, small animals and unfamiliar dogs: whether it works depends on the individual, previous experience and training. Introduce the animals gradually and make sure they can be kept apart.

## Training & Exercise

The Malinois needs physical and mental activity every day, but no credible fixed number of hours suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, the type of work and the ability to recover should guide the plan. A balanced week might combine walks and conditioning with tracking, scent work, obedience, working trials or another purposeful activity. The aim is not to make the dog as tired as possible, but to develop useful skills and a sustainable routine.

Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead walking, handling, stop and release cues, and the ability to wait and rest from an early age. Training should be reward-based, tailored to the individual and made harder gradually as the dog develops. Short, clear sessions with breaks often produce better work than repeating an exercise until the dog loses accuracy or becomes over-aroused.

Puppies and adolescents should not be exercised like fully grown service dogs. Develop strength, confidence in different environments and body awareness gradually, and do not let repetitive ball chasing, jumping or long runs become the entire activity plan. Watch movement and recovery. Stiffness, lameness, poorer concentration or an inability to settle after activity are reasons to reduce the load and, where necessary, consult a vet or an experienced instructor.

A first-time owner can succeed, but the learning curve is steep. A realistic plan includes access to a working-dog club or experienced trainer, support from the breeder and a clear idea of what the dog will do on dark weekday evenings and during periods when competition or service work is not taking place.

## Health

The Belgian Shepherd Dog is described as generally healthy and sound, but hips, elbows, epileptic-type seizures and back problems deserve particular attention. Before buying a puppy, it is important to distinguish binding registration rules from the breed club’s stricter breeding advice and to examine the wider family, not just each parent’s individual result.

For Swedish-registered breeding, the current Swedish Kennel Club rules require official hip and elbow status and known mental status for the parents covered by those provisions. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, known mental status means a complete MH with all 33 positions recorded; a Beteende- och personlighetsbeskrivning hund (BPH), the more general Swedish behaviour and personality assessment, does not replace this requirement for the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) additionally recommends A or B hips, clear elbows and a score of 1 or 2 in the MH gunshot item. Ask to see the original results and check siblings and previous offspring too.

Information about epilepsy needs careful interpretation. An older RAS survey captured reports of seizures or epileptic-type episodes in a small proportion of Malinois, but owners’ reports are not the same as veterinary diagnoses and the figures do not show how common the problem is in the breed today. Research demonstrates a hereditary component to epilepsy in Belgian Shepherd Dogs, with the strongest published evidence concerning the Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. Ask specifically about seizures in parents, siblings, half-siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a broad commercial DNA panel.

The RAS survey also flagged back problems in Malinois, but these were again reports from owners in an older sample and should not be read as current prevalence. Ask about spondylosis, lumbosacral problems, recurring lameness and work-related injuries in the family. For an active dog, an honest family history, official joint results and a plan for progressive conditioning are more useful than a long list of possible diagnoses.

## History & Origins

The Malinois originated in Belgium and developed from the local sheepdogs used in the late 1800s. The Belgian Shepherd Dog Club was founded in Brussels in 1891. In the same year, veterinary professor Adolphe Reul brought together 117 dogs to describe and select a more consistent type, and a first detailed breed standard was in place by 1892.

The first Belgian Shepherd Dogs entered the Belgian stud book in 1901, and by about 1910 the type and temperament were considered established. In today’s FCI standard, the Belgian Shepherd Dog is one breed with four varieties: the short-coated Malinois, the long-coated Groenendael and Tervueren, and the rough-coated Laekenois. The Malinois takes its name from Malines, the French name for the city of Mechelen, where the short-coated type was developed.

As the need for traditional herding declined, the work changed. Traits needed around livestock and farms — attentiveness, agility, stamina and close co-operation — found new uses in working trials, search, guarding and service work. That background explains the breed’s capacity, but it does not mean that every individual is automatically suited to every task.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Malinois works best when activity, recovery and household rules have been planned before the dog arrives. A large empty garden does not replace shared work, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. What matters is whether the dog can receive daily physical and mental activity, learn to remain calm indoors and be managed safely in stairwells, on public transport and when passing other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. An adult dog that is comfortable being left can normally manage a few hours, while a young puppy cannot be left alone. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, more often when young or old. This is a supervision threshold, not a target for how long a Malinois should be left; the dog’s actual response determines whether training needs to progress more slowly.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to say yes to the following:

- I have a clear training aim and time for both activity and rest every day.
- I have met the parents, or received credible information about their everyday behaviour, MH results, working ability and recovery.
- I have checked official hip, elbow and mental status and asked about epileptic-type seizures, back problems and temperament in the close family.
- I have a plan for children, visitors and other animals based on supervision, separation and gradual training.
- I have access to knowledgeable help if the dog’s intensity, fear, chasing behaviour or stress becomes difficult to manage.

For the right handler, the Malinois is an exceptionally versatile training partner. The sustainable choice, however, is not the puppy that appears most explosive, but the individual whose traits, family history and breeding purpose fit the life you can actually provide.

Belgian Malinois

Deutscher Club für Belgische Schäferhunde e.V. (Germany)

Belgian Malinois: medium‑large, lean, and highly athletic herding dog with a short fawn coat and black mask. Extremely intelligent, intense, loyal, and people‑focused. Needs firm structure, daily mental work, and heavy exercise; thrives with experienced, very active owners.

Dog Breeders

For Buyers

For Sellers

Tools

Dogs

Cats

Get a Pet