## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Milward

## Quick Facts

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a British companion and toy dog that combines a small frame with a lively, sociable nature. It usually wants to stay close to people, but it needs more than a lap and a few brief toilet walks.

- The breed standard gives a weight of 5.5–8 kg. It does not specify a height; the Swedish Kennel Club describes approximately 30–35 cm as usual.
- The coat is long and silky. The four recognised colours are black and tan, ruby, Blenheim and tricolour.
- The breed ideal is a happy, friendly, affectionate and fearless dog. Individual dogs can still differ markedly in energy, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- A Cavalier needs physical activity, scent work, training and social contact every day. No single exercise target in minutes is meaningful for every dog.
- Health calls for particular care. In Sweden, the breed is covered by a mandatory heart screening programme for breeding, while several other examinations are breed-club recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel should be small, well balanced and free-moving, with a gentle expression. The skull should be almost flat between the ears. The eyes are large, dark and round without being prominent, and the high-set ears are long and heavily feathered. The standard specifies a weight of 5.5–8 kg but no exact height. The figure of 30–35 cm is therefore a usual guide, not a height requirement.

The coat should be long and silky without curls; a slight wave is permitted. There is feathering on the ears, legs, feet and tail. The four colours are:

- **Black and tan:** black with clearly defined tan markings.
- **Ruby:** a solid, deep red.
- **Blenheim:** rich chestnut markings on a pearly white ground.
- **Tricolour:** black and white with tan markings.

The coat needs regular combing, particularly behind the ears, where the soft hair tangles easily. Check the feathering around the feet after walks as well. The standard calls for a natural, untrimmed coat, although thick hair beneath and between the pads may need tidying to prevent felted mats. Gently accustom a puppy to the comb, to having its paws handled and to having its ears and eyes checked; this makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

No dog breed is free of allergens, and the Cavalier is no exception. Dog allergens mainly come from the skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals. Anyone with allergy symptoms should therefore not assess the risk from coat length or breed name alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was bred for companionship and is generally open, affectionate and sociable. The breed standard describes a happy, friendly dog without aggression or nervousness, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

Results from Swedish BPH behaviour assessments provide a more nuanced picture. In an analysis of 192 Swedish-bred Cavaliers, the breed was mainly confident and did not generally react aggressively in social encounters. The average dog was not considered vocal either, although some dogs barked or whined in situations where this was not expected. There is genuine variation behind the breed description. If possible, meet the puppy's mother, ask how both parents behave in daily life and find out whether fear, stress or resource guarding occurs in close relatives.

The breed often fits well into family life and is generally sociable with other dogs. The same safety rules that apply to every dog still apply around young children: an adult should be present, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should learn not to carry the dog, pull its ears or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. Living with a cat depends on the individual dog, previous experience and a calm introduction; the breed name offers no guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

A Cavalier needs to move and use its brain every day, but the right amount depends on age, health, fitness and recovery rather than a fixed number of minutes. A healthy adult can combine walks and off-lead movement in a secure place with scent games, play and short training sessions. Many enjoy obedience, rally obedience or agility at a level suited to the individual.

Short, positive sessions make it easier to maintain focus. Start early with engagement, walking together and recall, and reward the dog for choosing you despite scents and other distractions. Even a companion dog with spaniel ancestry can become absorbed by something interesting outdoors, so use a long line until recall is reliable in that particular environment.

Puppies need to explore, play and rest at their own pace. Avoid generic five-minute rules and instead build activity gradually without pushing a tired puppy. A dog with a heart murmur, heart disease, pain or neurological signs needs an individual plan from a veterinary surgeon.

## Health

Heart health is the most important breed-specific check for a puppy buyer in Sweden. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is particularly predisposed to myxomatous mitral valve disease, or MMVD. The valve between the left atrium and ventricle changes so that blood may leak backwards and produce a heart murmur. A dog can have the disease without visible signs for a long time, while others later develop heart failure.

The breed is covered by a level 3 heart screening programme. To meet the registration rules for the offspring, both parents must have an official certificate showing no heart murmur. The certificate must be no more than 12 months old at the time of mating, and the minimum age for an official heart certificate is three years. This is a minimum standard, not proof that a mating is free from risk. Ask for the parents' registration numbers, check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata services, and consider how long older close relatives remained free of murmurs. The breed club recommends annual heart examinations from the age of three until a murmur is detected, including for dogs no longer used for breeding.

Chiari-like malformation and syringomyelia, CM/SM, are another important health concern. When the skull is too small in relation to the brain, the flow of cerebrospinal fluid may be disrupted and a fluid-filled cavity can form within the spinal cord. Some dogs with mild findings show no clear signs. Others experience pain, become sensitive around the head or neck, are reluctant to move, scratch at the air near the neck, or show weakness and poorer coordination. A veterinary surgeon should assess such signs. MRI can be used in breeding selection, but it is a breed-club recommendation and should not be confused with the mandatory heart programme. Ask the breeder about clinical signs and MRI results in the parents and close relatives.

The Swedish breed club also recommends eye examinations and patellar luxation checks for breeding dogs once they are at least one year old. The distinction matters here too: these are recommended checks, not the same registration requirement as the heart certificate. A buyer therefore needs to distinguish between formal requirements, breed-club recommendations and the combined results seen across the family.

## History & Origins

The modern Cavalier King Charles Spaniel originated in Great Britain and is closely associated with the small spaniels seen in European paintings over several centuries. The dogs gained their royal name through their connection with the House of Stuart and Charles II in particular.

As the short-muzzled type became fashionable, the King Charles Spaniel changed. In 1926, the American Roswell Eldridge offered prizes at Crufts for dogs resembling the older type, with a longer muzzle and flatter skull. A British breed club was founded in 1928, and in 1945 The Kennel Club recognised the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as a separate breed.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and the King Charles Spaniel are therefore not two names for the same dog. They are separate breeds with a shared background, and the Cavalier was developed to recapture more of the older spaniel type.

## Living with the Breed

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel can live well in either a flat or a house if it receives company, walks, mental activity and undisturbed rest. The size of the home is no substitute for a suitable daily routine. The breed can also suit a first-time owner who is prepared to train, care for the coat and take health screening seriously; its small size does not make it automatically low-maintenance.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, once the puppy feels secure at home. Step away for very short periods and increase the duration only when the dog can relax. Whining, persistent barking, destructive behaviour, refusing food or toileting indoors can be signs of distress. Individual dogs cope with different amounts of time alone, so arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more separation than your dog can comfortably manage.

Three checks are particularly valuable before buying a puppy:

1. Check the parents' current heart certificates and the results of older relatives in the Swedish Kennel Club's public records.
2. Ask separately about CM/SM signs and MRI, as well as eye and patella examinations; do not confuse these recommendations with the heart programme requirements.
3. Assess the parents' everyday temperament and how the puppies have been introduced to people, handling and a home environment.

These checks provide a more realistic picture than relying on the breed's friendly reputation alone. A carefully chosen Cavalier can be an engaged and very close companion, but it needs an owner who takes both its social needs and documented health risks seriously.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club UK

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Small, gentle spaniel (5.4–8 kg) with a silky medium coat in Blenheim, Tricolour, Black and Tan, or Ruby. Affectionate, people oriented, and good with children and other pets. Needs regular grooming, moderate exercise, and dislikes long periods alone.

Bernerhagens

## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Schilleshof's

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Fluffy Soul's

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Swedish Kennel Club

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Björkils

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

Inspirations

## Quick Facts

- The Lagotto Romagnolo is an Italian truffle dog in breed group 8, with roots as a water retriever in Romagna.
- This small-to-medium, robust breed is almost square in outline. Males are 43–48 cm tall and weigh 13–16 kg; females are 41–46 cm and weigh 11–14 kg.
- A Lagotto needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage the nose. Searching, tracking, nose work and other cooperative training suit the breed's working heritage.
- The breed standard calls for a biddable, enthusiastic and affectionate dog, but social confidence, sensitivity to sound and interest in strangers vary between individuals.
- The dense, curly coat grows continuously and needs clipping, checking and detangling before it mats. The breed is not allergy-free.
- Buyers of a Swedish-bred puppy should distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements and the breed club's more extensive breeding recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Lagotto Romagnolo is a compact dog with a robust, rustic appearance and a body that is almost as long as it is tall. Adult size differs slightly by sex: males should stand 43–48 cm and weigh 13–16 kg, while females should stand 41–46 cm and weigh 11–14 kg. The result is an agile working dog that should look neither heavy nor overly slight.

The curly coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should be dense and woolly, with a visible undercoat beneath the coarser curls. Permitted colours include off-white, white with brown or orange patches, orange roan and brown roan, and solid brown or orange, with or without white. Tan markings may occur. Black is not an accepted colour.

The coat grows throughout the dog's life and may felt if neglected. Check the skin and work through areas that mat easily, especially behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Detangle or clip before mats tighten, adjusting the interval to the coat, season, swimming and time spent in vegetation. There is no single weekly schedule that suits every Lagotto.

The breed standard describes a natural, functional trim that follows the body's outline; the coat should not be sculpted like a Poodle's. For showing, it specifies a maximum of about four centimetres on the body, with longer hair on the head that must not cover the eyes. For a pet, observable condition matters more than a date in the diary: the dog should see and move freely, the skin should be easy to inspect, and the coat should be neither felted nor full of dirt and plant debris. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the coat in that particular line is maintained.

Look at and smell the ears regularly, cleaning the outer ear when necessary. Abundant hair can contribute to problems in some dogs, but routine plucking is not automatically right for every individual. An unpleasant smell, brown debris, redness, tenderness or repeated head shaking warrants veterinary advice.

Lagotti are sometimes described as allergy-friendly because loose hair is less noticeable than it is in many shedding breeds. That is misleading. Dog allergens are found mainly in skin and saliva, levels vary even between dogs of the same breed, and no breed is allergy-free.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Lagotto as biddable, easy-going, enthusiastic, trainable and deeply affectionate towards its owner. It enjoys working closely with a person, uses its nose with persistence and may raise the alarm when something is unusual, although it was not bred as a guard dog. In the right home, it is often an involved companion that wants shared activities rather than exercise in isolation.

The ideal in the standard does not guarantee the behaviour of every dog. Swedish BPH behaviour assessments show wide variation in the way Lagotti greet unfamiliar people. Many make little contact, and curiosity, worry and recovery after a surprise also differ. Reserve is not necessarily fear, but a dog that is frequently uncertain needs distance and support rather than forced greetings.

For a puppy buyer, temperament in the family is therefore as important as a general breed description. Meet the dam with her puppies, ask how the parents and close relatives respond to visitors, noise and unfamiliar places, and request any BPH results. BPH describes behaviour; it is not an examination that a dog passes or fails.

A Lagotto can live happily with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name alone cannot promise compatibility. Calm early introductions and the individual dog's previous experiences matter. An adult should always supervise interactions with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Chasing games and encounters with small animals require the same care as they do with other dogs.

## Training & Exercise

The Lagotto Romagnolo needs an active life in which scent work has a clear place. The breed developed to search independently while cooperating with a handler, and many dogs enjoy nose work, searching for people or objects, tracking, obedience, rally and agility. You do not, however, need to compete or hunt for real truffles to meet this need.

Plan a routine that includes walks in varied places, time to investigate scents and short tasks requiring concentration. A simple search for hidden objects or treats can be valuable, but nose work does not replace movement, social contact, rest or ordinary life skills. Exact prescriptions in minutes or hours are less useful than the dog's behaviour: an appropriate level leaves the dog keen to work outdoors and able to settle at home, without persistent restlessness or signs of being overworked.

Teach recall early and reward contact even when the surroundings are tempting. Selective breeding has reduced the breed's former hunting instinct, but it has not removed it from every individual; older breed surveys found an interest in wildlife in a minority of dogs. Use a long line or enclosed area until recall is reliable in the setting where the dog will be off lead.

Balance activities with learning to be calm. A Lagotto that is continually given more excitement will not automatically learn to rest. Short, clear sessions, predictable breaks and reward-based training help to develop both cooperation and self-control. Adapt exercise to age, health and the individual day, particularly while a puppy is growing and after illness or injury.

## Health

The priority for a Lagotto buyer is to check documented results and the health history of the dog's family, rather than merely ticking off a long list of tests. In Sweden, the breed is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's health programme for hip dysplasia. Both parents must have an official hip score before mating for their offspring to qualify for registration under the rules.

The breed club goes further in its breeding recommendations. It advises a preliminary litter index of at least 98, recommends that dogs without a Swedish hip index have a grade of A or B, and advises against using dogs graded D or E. These are important points to ask about, but they are club recommendations and should not be confused with the formal requirement for a known result.

Eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed club therefore recommends that breeding dogs have an official eye examination recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club no more than one year before mating. Ask to see the date and findings rather than accepting only an assurance that the dog has been “tested”.

DNA tests are also available for the recessively inherited conditions BFJE, sometimes called benign familial juvenile epilepsy, and Lagotto storage disease, or LSD. The breed club recommends known status and that a carrier is mated only to a genetically clear dog. The terms clear, carrier and affected apply to the particular variant tested. A carrier is not automatically ill, while a clear result does not certify that the dog is free from every other disease. Ask both for test results and about recurring ear, skin, digestive, eye or neurological problems among close relatives.

The ears deserve regular attention because some individuals develop problems. Check them during coat care and consult a vet if you notice a strong smell, discharge, redness, pain or head shaking. Do not treat a recurring problem solely as a matter of clipping or cleaning.

## History & Origins

The Lagotto Romagnolo comes from Romagna in north-eastern Italy. Its name is associated with water, and the dogs originally worked as water retrievers in the low-lying wetlands around Comacchio and Ravenna. The dense coat, willingness to work and powerful nose were practical traits in that environment.

As large areas of wetland were drained and converted to farmland, the dogs' work changed. Their searching ability was put to use finding truffles in the fields and hills of Romagna. Today's breed standard lists truffle dog as the breed's function, while its place in group 8 reflects its background among the water dogs.

Numbers fell sharply after the Second World War, but a conservation effort began in the 1970s. The FCI recognised the breed in 1995. The first documented imports arrived in Sweden that year, the first Swedish litters were born in 1996, and the Swedish Lagotto Romagnolo Club was founded in 2000.

## Living with the Breed

The Lagotto Romagnolo is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday dog ownership with activity, scent work and regular coat care. Its manageable size means it can live in a flat, but floor space is no substitute for time outdoors, training and the opportunity to unwind. In a building with poor sound insulation, alert barking at noises in the stairwell or outside the door needs early attention too.

Being left alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left at the outset, and adult dogs differ greatly in how easily they cope with a few hours. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest calmly; persistent whining, pacing, destruction or other signs of stress mean that the plan needs to be scaled back and, at times, professional help sought.

Before buying a puppy, a practical checklist is more useful than promises that the breed “suits everyone”:

- Meet the dam and ask about everyday behaviour, fears, recovery and any BPH results in the family.
- Check both parents' official hip results and how the planned mating relates to the breed club's index recommendation.
- Ask to see recent eye results and BFJE and LSD DNA status, together with an explanation of how the mating has been planned.
- Ask about recurring health problems in parents, siblings and previous offspring, not only recorded test results.
- Have the breeder demonstrate coat and ear care, and expect clipping to be a lifelong routine.

The Lagotto can be a good choice for a first-time owner who has the time and interest for training, coat care and learning to read the dog's signals. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an undemanding dog content with the same short walk every day or one that will routinely be left alone for long working days.

Lagotto Romagnolo

The Swedish Lagotto Club

The Norwegian Lagotto Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Medium-sized Italian water and truffle dog with a sturdy build and dense, curly, low-shedding coat needing regular grooming. Affectionate, sensitive, and people oriented, it is highly trainable and thrives on scent work, mental challenges, and active outdoor family life.

Hesiodos

## Quick Facts

The Spanish Greyhound is a Spanish sighthound developed to pursue hare by sight. It can be calm and occasionally reserved in everyday life, yet the sight of potential prey may trigger a very different intensity. The breed is therefore best suited to an owner who appreciates a sighthound’s independence and can provide both a secure routine and safe places for the dog to run.

- **Country of origin:** Spain
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 10, sighthounds
- **Original purpose:** coursing hare across open ground
- **Height at the withers:** dogs 62–70 cm, bitches 60–68 cm
- **Weight:** the breed standard does not specify a weight range
- **Coat:** short and smooth or semi-long and rough; all colours are permitted
- **Typical life expectancy:** about 11–13 years, according to the Swedish Kennel Club
- **Important everyday needs:** early socialisation, carefully trained recall and access to safe places for free running

The Spanish Greyhound and the Greyhound are closely related, but they are not the same breed. The Spanish Greyhound is generally lighter in build and less heavily angulated. Its body is adapted to sustained hunting over varied terrain rather than short-distance speed alone.

## Appearance & Coat

The Spanish Greyhound should look light, strong and functional rather than heavy. The body is slightly longer than it is tall, the chest is deep and long without being broad, and the abdomen is markedly tucked up. The loin is arched and may sit slightly higher than the withers. This construction should give the dog a long stride, agility and endurance.

The long, narrow head is an important breed characteristic. The lines of the skull and muzzle are not parallel but diverge, giving a different expression from that of the Greyhound. The Spanish Greyhound also has a lighter body and less rounded muscle than a typical Greyhound. Two dogs of the same height should not therefore be expected to have the same weight or shape. As the breed standard gives no weight, proportions, muscle condition and overall body condition are more useful than a fixed figure on the scales.

The tail is very long, low set and ends in a pronounced hook. When the dog is standing at rest, the hook should almost touch the ground in front of the hind legs, not rest on it. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy records that excessively long tails in some lines have caused injuries which have sometimes required amputation. A correct tail should function well, not simply be as long as possible.

The Spanish Greyhound naturally moves at a gallop. At the trot, the stride should be extended, low, elastic and powerful. There are two coat varieties. The smooth coat is dense, fine and short. The rough-coated variety has semi-long, harder hair and may develop a beard, moustache and more pronounced eyebrows. All colours are permitted. Coat care is straightforward; the rough coat may need brushing a little more often, while skin, paws, nails and teeth need the same routine attention as those of other dogs.

## Temperament & Personality

The Spanish Greyhound is usually calm and serious in everyday life and may be reserved with strangers. In a hunting context, the breed standard describes the same dog as energetic and lively. That contrast is fundamental: a quiet manner indoors does not mean that the prey drive is weak.

Reserved should not mean fearful. Sweden’s breed-specific breeding strategy, drawing on a 2019 survey, noted individuals that were excessively shy in unfamiliar settings or around unknown people. A puppy therefore needs calm, positive experiences of different surfaces, places, sounds, people and dogs without being pushed. An adult dog may need time to assess a situation, but fear that restricts daily life should not be dismissed as a typical breed trait.

The breed can live successfully with a family that understands its needs, but get to know the particular dog you are considering. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, new environments, handling and sudden events. With a rehomed dog, a known history, present behaviour and a thoughtful introduction tell you more than general promises about the breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Spanish Greyhound needs regular daily exercise and opportunities to run safely, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and individual temperament determine the right workload. Varied walks provide movement and new experiences, while free movement in a secure enclosed area allows the dog to use its speed. Build fitness gradually, particularly in puppies, unfit adults and dogs whose background is unknown.

Prey drive is the main safety consideration. The breed was developed to spot moving game and follow it rapidly by sight. Start training engagement and recall early, reward generously and increase the difficulty in small steps. Even a well-trained recall does not remove the hunting instinct. Where there is wildlife, traffic or another hazard, a lead, long line or securely enclosed area is the responsible choice.

Lure coursing is a particularly suitable outlet. The Swedish Sighthound Club describes the sport as both a functional test and a form of training for the natural abilities of sighthounds: running fast, turning and following an artificial lure. Training and competition should follow the club’s rules and be adapted to the dog’s age, health and physical maturity.

Everyday training works best when it is reward-based and broken into clear, manageable steps. Do not focus only on obedience cues; practise calm handling, travelling by car, waiting, passing others and settling in new places. With cats, rabbits, birds and other small animals, the breed name must never replace an individual risk assessment. Some Spanish Greyhounds can live with a cat after a careful introduction, while others are not safe around small animals.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Spanish Greyhound as a generally healthy breed with a typical lifespan of about 11–13 years. This does not mean that every dog is free from illness or that a broad assurance of good health is enough before buying. Always judge health information by when and how it was collected.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy for 2020–2025 draws in part on a 2019 health survey answered by seven active breeders and a further 35 owners. It describes the breed as healthy overall, but notes reports from elsewhere in Europe of epilepsy and sudden death associated with heart disease in some lines. It also mentions a small number of umbilical hernias and missing teeth, along with isolated cases of cryptorchidism. The survey does not show how common these conditions are today and provides no basis for calling them common across the breed.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules do not require a specific mandatory health test for the Spanish Greyhound. That does not make family history irrelevant. Ask the breeder about the lifespan of the parents and close relatives, seizures, sudden deaths, known heart problems and other recurring concerns. Also ask how the breeder maintains genetic diversity in this numerically small breed. Seek veterinary help immediately for a seizure, collapse, breathing difficulty or another acute sign. Do not try to explain such signs at home by referring to the breed.

The tail deserves a practical check of its own. Look for repeated wounds or impacts against hard surfaces and discuss any problem with a vet; the standard does not require the tail to lie on the ground. Regular health checks, suitable body condition, dental care and exercise matched to the dog’s fitness provide a sound basis for a healthy life.

## History & Origins

The Spanish Greyhound comes from Spain and was shaped to hunt hare by sight across open country. The FCI breed standard describes the breed as being known to the Romans and cautiously suggests that its establishment on the Iberian Peninsula may be older and connected with ancient Asian sighthounds. It is therefore reasonable to speak of ancient roots, but not to present every detail of the breed’s earliest origins as settled fact.

Spanish sighthounds were exported to Ireland and England, among other countries, between the 16th and 18th centuries. The FCI describes the Spanish Greyhound as one of the ancestors of the English Greyhound. Later exchange between the breeds makes their similarities easy to see, but the modern Spanish Greyhound should retain its own lighter, less heavily angulated and endurance-oriented type.

The breed is still used to hunt small game in Spain. In Sweden, lure coursing provides a controlled way to assess and use parts of the sighthound’s original function without live quarry. The first dog arrived in Sweden in 1995, and the first Swedish litter was born that same year.

## Living with the Breed

The Spanish Greyhound can live in either a house or a flat if its daily routine provides enough movement, rest and security. The type of home matters less than the ability to exercise the dog, manage its prey drive and arrange safe free running. With a large, long-legged dog, it is also sensible to consider stairs, slippery floors and enough room to turn without knocking into furniture.

The same basic rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult should always be present with young children, and the dog must have a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The breed’s calm side may suit a quiet household, but its size, speed and individual sensitivity require respect. Children should not be responsible for walks on which the dog could lunge after wildlife.

Many individuals are sociable with other dogs, but introductions should be calm and the developing relationship monitored. Living with a cat or small animal can never be guaranteed from the breed alone. Consider that dog’s previous experience and response, and keep the animals apart whenever you cannot supervise them. Take extra care with a dog whose background is unknown.

Time alone must be taught, not assumed. Start once the dog feels secure, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. Puppies cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly. If the dog remains distressed, whines, barks, howls, damages things or tries to escape, return to an easier step. Seek help from a suitably qualified trainer or vet if needed.

Before buying or rehoming, you should be able to answer yes to four questions: Do I have a safe plan for the moment the prey drive takes over? Can the dog run without being exposed to traffic or wildlife? Can I give a reserved individual time and positive socialisation? Have I received specific information about temperament, health and longevity in the family? Clear answers allow a Spanish Greyhound to become an adaptable everyday companion without denying its heritage as a fast, independent hunting dog.

Spanish Greyhound

The Galgo Español Club UK

The Spanish Greyhound (Galgo Español) is an ancient Spanish sighthound, lightly built with a long body, deep chest and smooth, efficient movement. Calm, sensitive and affectionate at home, it needs regular exercise, gentle training and protection from cold due to its fine coat and low body fat.

Zakeya's

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Serack's

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Merry Cocktails

Idunvallens

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

## Quick Facts

The Petit Brabançon is a small Belgian companion dog that tends to be alert, affectionate and keen to be involved in whatever is happening. It belongs to FCI Group 9 and is the smooth-coated member of the three closely related Belgian griffon breeds. The other two are the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois.

- **Country of origin:** Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog
- **Weight in the breed standard:** 3.5–6 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard does not specify a height
- **Coat:** short, harsh and glossy; no more than 2 cm long
- **Colours:** red, black, black and tan, or a mixture of black and red, with a dark mask
- **Typical traits:** attentive, active, trainable, friendly and close to its owner
- **Key health areas:** breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of neurological pain

The three griffon breeds share the same background and, according to the Swedish Kennel Club, may be mated to one another. The Petit Brabançon is distinguished chiefly by its smooth coat, while the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois are rough-coated. The breeds are registered separately.

The official weight is a more reliable guide than the height figures commonly found online. The breed standard gives a weight of 3.5–6 kg but no range for height at the withers. Two adult dogs can therefore differ in height while both remaining entirely typical of the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Petit Brabançon should be small, compact and almost square, with good bone but without heavy movement. Its body length should be approximately equal to its height at the withers. The short, broad head, pronounced undershot bite and large, dark eyes create the breed's characteristic expression.

Breed type should not be confused with exaggeration. The nostrils should be well open, the eyes large but never protruding, and the lower jaw broad. Neither the tongue nor teeth should show when the mouth is closed. When assessing a dog, give priority to free breathing, open nostrils and healthy eyes rather than the flattest possible face.

The coat is harsh, glossy and no more than 2 cm long. It does not require trimming. Brush and bathe as needed, for example when loose hair or dirt needs removing.

Accepted colours are red, black, black and tan, and a mixture of black and red. A dark mask is part of the desired appearance; in older dogs, the mask may be grey or grey-flecked.

The short coat makes grooming straightforward, but it does not make the breed allergy-free. There are no allergy-free dog breeds, and allergen levels vary between individual dogs, even within the same litter. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore assess their reaction to the particular dog rather than choosing on coat length alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Petit Brabançon is fundamentally an attentive companion that likes to take part in family life. The breed standard describes the Belgian griffons as intelligent, balanced and alert, while the Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as active, trainable, affectionate and friendly.

That does not mean every individual will react in the same way. Genetics, early environment, socialisation, training and health all influence how confident, sociable and easy-going a dog becomes. An adult dog should be able to settle after activity and meet people without persistent fear or aggression. When visiting a litter, try to meet the dam and ask how close relatives cope with everyday life.

The breed's attentiveness can be useful in focus exercises, everyday obedience and simple scent games. Reward calm behaviour from the outset and provide an undisturbed resting place so the dog learns to switch off.

A Petit Brabançon can suit either an experienced owner or a well-prepared first-time owner, but being small does not make the dog self-sufficient. It needs kind, consistent training, daily care and an owner who takes breathing and eye health seriously. Choose the individual dog and breeder for their fit with your life, not on promises that the breed is always easy.

## Training & Exercise

The Petit Brabançon needs daily movement, mental stimulation and time to recover, but no single walk duration is right for every dog. A healthy individual may enjoy walks, exposure to different environments, play, everyday training and scent work. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, temperature and, above all, how the dog breathes and recovers.

Short, clear training sessions often suit a small, quick-learning companion dog. Reward the behaviour you want, break new skills into manageable steps and increase the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable. Gradually accustom the dog to having its mouth and face examined too; this makes toothbrushing and eye checks easier.

The short muzzle means breathing must determine how hard the dog works. Slow down or stop if breathing noise clearly increases, the dog struggles for air, fails to recover normally or appears unable to regulate its temperature. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or marked breathing difficulty are emergency warning signs that require veterinary care.

Take particular care in hot, humid weather. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, offer water and allow the dog to rest before it becomes distressed. A dog that repeatedly cannot manage an ordinary walk or play because of its breathing needs to be examined; this should not be dismissed as normal for a short-nosed breed.

A puppy should not follow the same exercise plan as an adult. Instead, let its body develop through varied, self-paced movement, brief opportunities to explore and plenty of rest. Increase duration and difficulty gradually, guided by the puppy's movement, breathing and recovery.

## Health

The main health checks for a Petit Brabançon concern breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of pain involving the nervous system. The presence of a problem in the breed does not mean every dog is affected; the individual dog's examination results and physical function are what matter.

The breed is short-nosed, which can increase the risk of BOAS — breathing difficulty caused by narrowed upper airways. The Swedish Kennel Club includes the breed in its specific instructions concerning head shape and breathing. Quiet, unrestricted breathing at rest, well-opened nostrils and normal recovery after movement are therefore useful practical checks. Snoring-like sounds while awake, increased breathing effort, poor stamina or heat intolerance should not be regarded as charming breed traits.

The RFG Scheme is a veterinary examination that assesses breathing before and after a three-minute exercise test. Among other things, the vet examines nostril shape, listens to the heart and lungs, and grades signs of BOAS from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected. Grade 1 denotes mild signs that do not affect performance, while grades 2 and 3 indicate moderate and severe clinical impact respectively.

Since May 2026, RFG results for the Petit Brabançon can be recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. An official result is registered from 24 months of age; an earlier result is marked as preliminary. For the Petit Brabançon, central registration does not currently mean that an RFG test is compulsory before breeding. Rules can change, so always check the current information from the Swedish Kennel Club. A puppy buyer can ask whether the parents have been tested, which grades they received and how they cope with ordinary activity and warm weather.

Kneecap problems and certain eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed's Swedish breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs be examined for patellar luxation before their first mating and have an eye examination within a year before mating. Ask to see registered results rather than accepting a general assurance that the dogs are healthy. Also ask about corneal injuries and other eye problems in close relatives, because the head shape can leave the eyes more exposed.

Syringomyelia occurs in the breed and can cause severe pain, but its prevalence among Swedish dogs is unknown. Frantic scratching, unusual movement or unexplained pain, for example when walking on a lead, can justify a neurological veterinary assessment. These signs can have several causes and should not be used to diagnose the dog at home.

Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, blinks repeatedly, rubs an eye, develops a watery eye or appears to be in pain. Breathing distress, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require emergency help. Early treatment is particularly important when the eyes are large and the muzzle is very short.

## History & Origins

The Petit Brabançon was developed in Belgium from the same stock as the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois. The breed standard traces all three to a small, rough-coated type found around Brussels known as the Smousje. These dogs worked around stables, where they helped control rodents and were said to guard carriages.

During the 1800s, crosses with dogs including the Pug and red King Charles Spaniel shaped the modern griffon type. These crosses contributed the smooth black coat and consolidated the breed type. The first griffons were entered in the Belgian stud book in 1883, and the small dogs later became valued as companions beyond Belgium.

The smooth-coated variety became known as the Petit Brabançon. Today, the three griffons have separate FCI numbers and are distinguished mainly by coat and colour, but their shared origin remains evident in both the breed standard and Swedish breeding practice. Their history explains the relationship; it cannot predict the temperament or health of an individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Petit Brabançon is best suited to someone who wants a small companion that takes an active part in daily life and can adapt routines to the individual dog's breathing, activity level and need for company. It can live well in a flat if it has regular opportunities to toilet, suitable activity, quiet recovery time and training to remain calm around sounds in the hallway and outside the door.

Adult supervision is essential around children. A dog this small should not be picked up, chased or disturbed while eating or resting. Give the dog a safe place of its own and teach the child to wait until the dog chooses to approach. How well the breed lives with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals, their previous experience and the way introductions are handled; the breed name is no guarantee.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure in its home. A young puppy should not be left alone; build up an adult dog's tolerance in small steps without allowing it to become frightened. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is regularly longer than the dog can remain alone without distress.

Oral care is an important part of routine care. Introduce toothbrushing gradually and ask your vet to help determine a suitable frequency. Dental chews may be a supplement, but they do not replace mechanical cleaning.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- How do the parents breathe at rest, during activity and in warm weather?
- Are there registered RFG results, and which grades did the dogs receive?
- When were the kneecaps and eyes last examined, and which results were recorded?
- Have close relatives had recurring corneal injuries, unexplained pain or neurological signs?
- How have the puppies been introduced to people, everyday sounds, handling and rest?
- What support does the breeder provide if questions arise after purchase?

The right dog can become a devoted companion that enjoys training. What matters is not simply that it is small or smooth-coated, but that it breathes freely, has healthy eyes and a stable temperament, and has a daily routine suited to an active companion dog.

Petit Brabançon

Petit Brabançon: a tiny, sturdy Belgian companion dog with a smooth, glossy coat and large, almost human dark eyes. Loyal, sensitive and intelligent, it bonds closely with its people, suits city living, needs daily mental and physical activity, and prefers homes where it’s rarely left alone.

Great Gloriou's

Parson Russell Terrier

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Parson Russell Terriers are medium‑small, long‑legged, athletic fox‑hunting terriers with smooth or broken white coats. Energetic, intelligent, bold, and affectionate, they need plenty of exercise, consistent training, mental stimulation, and clear boundaries in an active home.

Tinchens

## Quick Facts

- The American Hairless Terrier is a small to medium-sized American terrier now kept mainly as a companion dog.
- The breed comes in two varieties: hairless and coated. Both belong to the same breed.
- The ideal height at the withers is 30.5–40.5 cm for dogs and bitches. The breed standard does not specify a set weight.
- It should be energetic, alert, curious and quick to learn, although activity levels can vary considerably between individuals.
- Its Rat Terrier ancestry is still evident in a strong prey drive, particularly towards small animals, even though bare skin limits the hairless variety in dense cover.
- The breed is recognised by the Nordic kennel clubs but not by the FCI.

The American Hairless Terrier is best suited to someone who wants an active companion and can combine everyday training with protection for bare skin. Having no coat does not make the dog allergy-free or remove the terrier instinct to hunt.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Hairless Terrier should be agile, muscular and slightly longer than it is tall, with proportions of about 10:9. It should have medium bone and move freely and evenly while keeping a strong, level back. This is an athletic terrier, not a fragile toy dog.

The ideal height is 30.5–40.5 cm for both sexes. The standard gives no weight range, so proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than an unofficial figure. Ask the breeder to show you how the parents look and move as adults.

Both the hairless and coated varieties are recognised. A hairless puppy is born with a soft natal coat that gradually disappears. By about eight to ten weeks, the body should be hairless apart from whiskers and possibly very fine down. The coated variety retains a short, smooth, dense and glossy coat. All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle and albinism.

Hairlessness is inherited recessively and is associated with a variant in the SGK3 gene. A coated dog can therefore carry the variant without being hairless. This genetic form is not associated with the same effects on teeth and fertility as the dominant hairlessness seen in some other hairless breeds. That does not mean every dog must have a complete set of teeth: the standard accepts a scissor or level bite and does not penalise missing premolars.

Skin care should respond to the dog's skin and the weather rather than follow a fixed routine. A hairless dog may need a well-fitting coat in cold conditions and protection from strong sunlight. Check the skin for chafing, scratches or redness after play and walks. Dry skin may sometimes need an emollient, but recurring rashes, itching or inflamed areas should be assessed by a vet. The coated variety mainly needs routine brushing, nail care and checks of the ears and teeth.

## Temperament & Personality

The American Hairless Terrier should be energetic, alert, curious and quick to learn. A confident individual will usually want to take part in family life and enjoy both company and purposeful activities. It also has a clear terrier heritage: it may react quickly to movement, keep watch on events outside the home and make its own decisions when something interesting appears.

Positive early experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and different settings matter. Socialisation does not mean that the dog must greet everyone. The aim is for it to handle everyday life calmly and look to its handler for guidance. Too few dogs in Sweden have completed BPH behavioural assessments for the results to describe the whole breed, so observe how the actual parents behave instead.

Activity levels vary. The Swedish breed club describes dogs ranging from fairly moderate to intense individuals that need a great deal of exercise and occupation. Ask how the parents and previous offspring behave on ordinary days: can they settle after activity, how do they respond to visitors and sounds, and how strongly do they pursue small animals?

Prey drive is a central everyday consideration. The breed's ancestors hunted rats and other vermin, and an American Hairless Terrier may regard mice, hamsters, guinea pigs and other small pets as prey. Do not assume that living together will be safe simply because the dog grows up in the household. Keep the animals securely apart whenever an adult cannot supervise them.

## Training & Exercise

The American Hairless Terrier needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. A better measure is whether the individual can move in a relaxed way, use its nose, solve tasks and then rest at home without becoming restless or overtired.

Combine walks with scent work, brief training sessions, play and body-awareness exercises. The breed may enjoy activities such as nose work, rally obedience, agility and trick training when the demands suit the dog's age and physical condition. Adapt activities to bare skin too: dense vegetation can scratch, while cold or strong sunlight may call for shorter sessions, a different time of day or protective clothing.

Use clear cues, short repetitions and rewards the dog genuinely values. Its curiosity and ability to learn mean that many individuals spot patterns quickly, including unwanted ones. Reward calm behaviour at the door, voluntary attention outdoors and the ability to disengage from something the dog wants to chase. Harsh corrections risk creating conflict or uncertainty and do not teach the dog what to do instead.

Recall and stopping around small animals deserve high priority, but training does not remove prey drive. Use a lead or long line where wildlife may appear until the response is thoroughly proven in that setting. If the dog barks at noises or visitors, work both preventively and practically: block opportunities to stand guard at windows, teach it to settle in a chosen place and reward it for breaking off the alert.

## Health

There are too few registered dogs in Sweden to describe the breed's health with great certainty. It is therefore misleading either to call the American Hairless Terrier generally healthy or to present a long list of diagnoses as if each were common. A prospective owner gets better evidence by reviewing the parents' results, illness among close relatives and the breeder's follow-up of previous litters.

The Swedish breed strategy recommends that both parents' DNA status for prcd-PRA and primary lens luxation, PLL, should be known before mating. A PLL carrier should have an eye examination close to the mating. Dogs that show signs of patellar luxation or have had corrective surgery should not be bred from, and the breeder should make sure that every puppy can hear before it leaves. Persistent allergy, skin problems and autoimmune disease in offspring should also inform future breeding decisions.

These are breed-club recommendations, not a compulsory health programme. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, the only special provision for the American Hairless Terrier is that coat type is recorded; there is no breed-specific requirement there for prcd-PRA, PLL, patella or hearing tests. Rules can change, so anyone planning a litter should always check the current version.

As a puppy buyer, ask to see the DNA results and confirm which dog they belong to. A result for one genetic variant is not a general certificate of health. Also ask how the patellae have been assessed, how puppy hearing is checked, and whether close relatives have had skin, allergy, eye or immune-related problems. Because the breed was founded from a small number of dogs, the relationship between the parents and open follow-up also matter.

A hairless dog is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found mainly in skin and saliva, and the amount varies between individuals, even within a breed or litter. Anyone with a dog allergy should not choose a breed on coat alone. Discuss the risk with a healthcare professional and spend time with the particular dog on several occasions before deciding; a brief meeting with another member of the breed offers no guarantee.

## History & Origins

The American Hairless Terrier developed from the American Rat Terrier, a farm and hunting dog used to control rats and other small quarry. In the autumn of 1972, a hairless bitch was born in a Rat Terrier litter. The Scott family named her Josephine, and she became the foundation bitch of the breed. In 1981, she produced a litter of two hairless and two coated puppies, providing the basis for further development.

During the 1980s and 1990s, the population was built from few dogs, with matings between close relatives used to establish the hairless trait. This explains why genetic diversity remains an important part of breeding decisions. The coated variety is not an unwanted by-product but a recognised part of the breed and can contribute to a broader breeding base.

The United Kennel Club registered it as a hairless Rat Terrier variety in 1999 and as a separate breed in 2004. The American Kennel Club granted full recognition in 2016. The first documented import to Sweden arrived in 2005 and produced its first litter the following year. Swedish Kennel Club recognition has applied since 2017. The breed can take part in shows and dog sports in the Nordic countries but is still not recognised by the FCI.

## Living with the Breed

An American Hairless Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough outdoor activity, help to settle and training around noises in stairwells and outside windows. The content of daily life matters more than the size of the home. In a building with poor sound insulation, however, the owner needs to address alert barking early and provide an undisturbed resting place.

With children, adult supervision and respect for the dog's boundaries matter more than a breed label. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a safe resting place where it will not be disturbed. Bare skin also makes rough play, sharp fingernails and careless lifting particularly unsuitable.

Living with a cat can work for some individuals, but prey drive makes calm, controlled introductions essential. The cat should have its own escape routes and resources, the dog must be prevented from chasing, and meetings should be supervised until their behaviour together is predictable. Small rodents and other prey-like pets must always be kept securely apart.

Being left alone is a learned skill, not an inborn breed trait. Start with very short absences when the dog feels safe and calm, and increase the duration only while it can remain relaxed. Persistent distress, barking or attempts to escape mean that training has progressed too quickly. Arrange care if daily life requires absences longer than the individual can manage.

In a Nordic climate, clothing for a hairless dog must function rather than merely look attractive. Check that coats provide warmth without rubbing beneath the forelegs or across the chest, and adapt time outdoors to wind, rain, temperature and the dog's movement. Strong sunlight calls for shade and may require skin protection. This extra care is central to the choice of breed, alongside the terrier's need for activity, training and safe management around small animals.

American Hairless Terrier

American Hairless Terrier Club of the United Kingdom

Svenska Terrierklubben (Swedish Terrier Club)

Dansk Terrier Klub (Danish Terrier Club)

Norwegian Terrier Club

Small, lively terrier available in hairless and coated forms, usually 25–46 cm and 5–12 kg. Very people-focused, indoor-oriented, and low-shedding, often suiting allergy-prone owners. Needs moderate daily exercise, mental stimulation, skin protection, and consistent, positive training.

Ticket To Win

## Quick Facts

- The Pumi is a Hungarian herding dog of terrier type, not a terrier breed. It was used to herd and manage both sheep and larger livestock, and also has a history as a farm dog and vermin controller.
- Males should measure 41–47 cm and weigh 10–15 kg; the ideal is 43–45 cm and 12–13 kg. Females should measure 38–44 cm and weigh 8–13 kg; the ideal is 40–42 cm and 10–11 kg.
- The ears are upright at the base, but the upper third should tip forwards. Completely erect ears are therefore not the correct breed ideal.
- The Pumi is very lively, bold, keen to work and often vocal. It may be reserved with strangers, but shyness is not typical according to the breed standard.
- The coat is wavy or curly, forms resilient curls and consists of harsh but not coarse topcoat with a soft undercoat. A small amount of loose hair does not make the breed safe for someone with allergies.
- The breed suits someone who wants to train regularly, can teach the dog to switch between activity and rest, and is prepared to work thoughtfully on barking, socialisation and health screening.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pumi should be medium-sized, lean, well-muscled and square. Its body length should equal its height at the withers. The head is relatively long and narrow, with an elongated but not pointed muzzle. The dark brown eyes are oval and set slightly obliquely. The upright base and forward-tipping upper third of the ears give the breed its distinctive expression. The ears are very mobile and track what is happening around the dog.

The tail is set high and forms a wide circle over the croup. A naturally short tail and docking are not permitted under the FCI standard. A tail that normally hangs down or is carried in several entirely different ways is therefore inconsistent with the breed ideal.

The coat averages 4–7 cm in length and should form smaller or larger wavy or curly tufts. It must not be smooth or corded. The topcoat should be strong but not coarse, while the undercoat is soft. The eyes and foreface should be free from long hair.

Permitted colours are intense, solid grey, black, fawn or white. Grey dogs are usually born black and lighten over time. A white patch on the chest measuring less than 3 cm across and a white line on the toes are permitted, but a parti-coloured or chocolate coat is a disqualifying fault.

Let the comb and the condition of the skin determine the grooming schedule. Work through the coat from the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and groin, and beneath a harness or collar. Deal with tangles before they pull on the skin, and bathe the dog when the coat is dirty. Lightly dampen the coat after combing and allow it to air-dry so that the curls reform. Introduce a puppy gradually to combing, paw handling and standing still.

For the traditional show presentation, the standard calls for hand trimming with only minor scissor corrections on the head and legs; shaping the whole coat with scissors is undesirable. A companion dog's practical trim need not copy a show dog's, but choose a groomer who understands the double, curly coat and can keep the skin free from matting.

## Temperament & Personality

The Pumi should be lively, bold, attentive and always ready for action. The FCI describes the breed as somewhat suspicious of strangers and rather noisy. The same standard says that shy or phlegmatic behaviour is untypical. The fact that the breed can be reserved should therefore not be used to excuse persistent fear, threatening behaviour or uncontrolled barking.

The Pumi reacts quickly, which is a major advantage in herding and dog sports but also needs managing in everyday life. The dog may notice movement, sounds and changes immediately, and learn both desirable and undesirable behaviours just as quickly. How sociable, vocal or easily stressed an individual becomes is influenced by inheritance, early experiences, environment and training.

Meet the dam and, if possible, several adult relatives. Watch how they greet an unfamiliar person, respond to sudden sounds and settle again after play or excitement. Ask how full siblings and earlier offspring cope in new places, with physical handling and when meeting dogs. Older Swedish MH and BPH behaviour-assessment data may reveal historical patterns, but cannot predict how a particular puppy will develop.

## Training & Exercise

The Pumi needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery every day, but no fixed number of hours suits every dog. An adult may enjoy walks over varied ground, tracking, search games, obedience, rally obedience, agility or herding. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, health and fitness, and to how well it can settle afterwards.

Prioritise skills that help the dog cope with speed, distractions and barking without conflict:

- walking on a loose lead and turning calmly away from distractions
- recall that is first practised in safe, controlled surroundings
- watching people, dogs and movement without immediately barking or lunging
- a cue to leave a window, door or fence and reconnect with the handler
- a clearly defined resting place and the ability to sleep after activity
- cooperative handling of the coat, paws, mouth, ears and eyes

Reward-based training provides clear information without unnecessary conflict. Food, play, sniffing, increased distance and access to an activity can all be used as rewards. Keep sessions short while the dog is focused, and include breaks before arousal rises too far.

More activity is not always the answer to barking or restlessness. If the dog becomes faster and noisier and finds it harder to sleep after every session, it may need simpler tasks, fewer stimuli and longer recovery. Puppies and young dogs should move freely at their own pace over varied surfaces, but should not be subjected to long runs or numerous repeated jumps. Lameness, stiffness or reluctance to move should be assessed by a vet.

## Health

In Sweden, both parents of a Pumi litter must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that a result must be recorded; it does not automatically mean that every parent must have an HD grade of A or B. The Pumi is not covered by the stricter breed rule that prohibits all breeding from dogs with HD.

The Swedish Kennel Club's general rules still apply: a dog graded HD E must not be bred from, a dog graded HD D may only be paired with one graded A or B, and a dog with clinical signs of HD must not be bred from regardless of grade. The breed-specific breeding strategy from 2017 states that A or B is desirable, and that a dog graded C should only be used after careful consideration of what it contributes to the breed. Ask for the exact grades and examination dates, as well as hip results from close relatives.

The same 2017 strategy recommends examinations of the kneecaps, eyes and elbows to improve knowledge within the breed, but these are not mandatory breed conditions under the 2026 Swedish registration rules. Ask which examinations have actually been carried out and request the results rather than accepting a broad claim that ‘all tests are clear’.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, has been documented in Swedish breed health records. The DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, a carrier or has two copies of the tested variant. The condition is inherited recessively, so a carrier may be mated to a genetically clear dog but not to another carrier if puppies with two copies are to be avoided. Red or painful eyes and sudden changes in vision require prompt veterinary attention because lens luxation can lead to glaucoma and sight loss.

Degenerative myelopathy, DM, is included in the American breed club's testing programme, but is not a Swedish registration requirement. A DM result showing two copies of the risk variant means increased risk; it does not mean that the dog has the disease or will certainly develop it. DM is diagnosed by excluding other causes of neurological signs, and the DNA result is only one part of the assessment.

The Swedish health survey used for the 2017 breeding strategy reported recurring skin problems and allergies. The information is self-reported and dated, but it gives buyers a reason to ask about diagnosed itching, hair loss and recurring skin or ear problems in the parents, siblings and earlier offspring. The material is not sufficient to state how common these problems are in the breed today.

## History & Origins

The Pumi was developed in Hungary during the 17th and 18th centuries through crosses between the Puli and imported German and French dogs of terrier type with erect ears. The FCI classifies it as a herding dog of terrier type, not as a terrier breed. It became recognised as a separate breed in the early 20th century.

The work called for a quick, bold and vocal dog that could herd sheep and larger livestock and move close to stock without being heavy or slow. The standard also mentions a well-developed sense of smell and historical use against vermin and predators. This is documented background, but it does not mean that every modern Pumi automatically has the same working ability or is suited to a particular task.

The first Pumi arrived in Sweden from Finland in the late 1970s. The first Swedish litter was registered in 1980 and the next in 1984. Later imports, particularly from Finland and Hungary, have contributed to the Swedish population.

## Living with the Breed

A Pumi can live in a flat if its owner can provide activity, rest and thoughtful training around barking and sounds. The breed's tendency to notice and bark at noises means that layout, neighbours, shared stairwells and the view from windows can matter more than the size of the home. A garden does not replace walks or training and may increase barking if the dog is allowed to patrol without guidance.

Active adult supervision is essential around children. Fast movement and loud sounds can raise the dog's level of excitement, but it should not be assumed that every Pumi will try to herd or nip children. Instead, teach both dog and children to take calm breaks, protect the dog's food and resting place, and end play before anyone becomes overexcited.

Living with other dogs, cats and small animals must be assessed individually. Introduce dogs calmly and provide cats with dog-free areas, high resting places and escape routes. Prevent chasing from the start. Early familiarity may help, but it does not replace supervision or knowledge of how the dog's adult relatives behave.

Begin alone-time training with very short periods, increasing them only when the dog can eat, rest and settle again. Persistent barking, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing food indicate that the step is too difficult, not that the dog is being stubborn.

A first-time owner can succeed if they enjoy regular training and can obtain support from the breeder and a knowledgeable instructor. Check the parents' official HD status and grades, ask about patellas, eyes, elbows, PLL, skin and temperament, and request the actual results. Choose a puppy on the basis of how the adult dogs cope and settle in everyday life, not just their expressive ears or curly coats.

Pumi

The Pumi Club of Great Britain

German Pumi Club (Pumiclub Deutschland)

Swedish Working Dog Association (Svenska Brukshundklubben)

Kennel Club (UK)

The Pumi is a medium‑small Hungarian herding dog with a curly, low‑shedding coat, pricked ears, and an alert expression. Intelligent, energetic, and vocal, it excels in dog sports, needs regular mental and physical work, bonds closely with its family, and remains relatively rare.

Puli

The Kennel Club (UK) - Puli

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden) - Puli

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Puli

Deutscher Club für Ungarische Hirtenhunde e.V. (Germany)

Société Centrale Canine (France) - Puli

The Puli is a compact Hungarian herding dog, agile and athletic beneath its famous corded “mop‑like” coat. Intelligent, independent and lively, it bonds closely with family, needs consistent training, substantial mental and physical exercise, and dedicated, specialized coat care.

Rowibu's

## Quick Facts

- The Chinese Crested Dog is a small companion dog with two coat varieties: hairless and powder puff. Both can be born in the same litter.
- The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard does not specify an official weight.
- The hairless variety has a crest on its head, so-called socks on its feet and a plume on its tail. The powder puff has a long, soft coat over its entire body.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful dog that should never be vicious. Even so, there are clear individual differences in sociability, curiosity, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- Skin or coat care, tooth brushing and protection suited to the weather need to be part of everyday life from the outset.
- When choosing a puppy, eye examination results, PLL status, dental status and the health and temperament of close relatives matter more than general promises about the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chinese Crested Dog is small, active and graceful without necessarily being fragile. The breed includes both the elegant deer type and the somewhat heavier cobby type. The body should be moderately long to long, with a level back and long, flowing, free movement. All colours and colour combinations are permitted.

The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard gives no weight, so the figure of 5.4 kg as an upper limit should not be treated as the modern ideal. Assess an adult dog by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead.

In the hairless variety, the body should be largely bare, with long hair on the head, feet and tail. The amount of body hair nevertheless varies between individuals. Ask to see the puppy before it has been trimmed, and ask the breeder to demonstrate how that particular dog's skin and furnishings should be cared for. The skin should be fine, soft and warm to the touch.

The powder puff has a thin undercoat covered by a veil of long, soft hair. The coat should be flowing rather than heavy or woolly. Part the coat and comb all the way down to the skin. Pay particular attention to early tangles wherever hair is dense or subject to friction. A weekly routine for bathing and checking the coat can be a starting point, but its condition should determine how often it needs detangling, washing and thorough drying.

Hairless skin needs to be checked for chafing, redness, spots and dryness. Young dogs can develop blackheads and spots during periods of hormonal change, although the extent varies greatly. Provide shade and suitable clothing when sun, wind, wet weather or cold make it necessary. A powder puff may also need weather protection because its fine coat provides relatively little warmth and is not particularly water-resistant. If the skin remains inflamed or itchy, or develops sores that do not heal, a vet should assess the cause and help with the choice of products.

Neither the hairless variety nor the powder puff is allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, and levels also vary between dogs of the same breed. A small amount of loose hair is therefore no guarantee for a family affected by allergies.

## Temperament & Personality

The Chinese Crested Dog should be cheerful and not vicious, but the breed encompasses many different personalities. In data from Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment, the dogs assessed appeared relatively confident, moderately curious and not generally vocal or aggressive. The same data show considerable variation in how dogs greet unfamiliar people, play and respond to unexpected events.

That is more useful than labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog”. One individual may seek a great deal of physical contact, while another may be more independent. Some greet visitors immediately; others prefer to observe first. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives cope with handling, new people, noise, settling and brief separations. Look for a puppy that can explore at its own pace and recover after something unexpected.

The breed can be alert and may bark when something happens, but that does not mean every dog is very vocal. In a home where noise carries easily, it is sensible to reward calm behaviour around doors, windows and sounds in communal areas from an early age. Find out whether the dog can also settle when nothing is happening. The ability to rest matters just as much as playfulness.

With children, the interaction matters more than the breed label. The dog's small size calls for extra care if children want to pick it up or carry it, but there is no general rule that the breed is suitable only for older children. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no well-founded time formula that suits every dog. A good day might include walks with time to sniff, play, a short skills session and calm recovery. An active individual may enjoy longer outings, agility, rally obedience, heelwork to music or tracking, while another may prefer less demanding activities.

Adjust duration and intensity to the dog's age, fitness, the weather, its movement and how well it recovers. A hairless dog that tenses up in the cold is not having a worthwhile walk simply because a target duration has been reached. Choose protection and surroundings to suit the conditions, and add indoor training when needed.

Reward-based training works well for teaching everyday skills. Start with recall, walking on a lead, settling in one place, leaving objects and stopping an activity when asked. Also practise cooperative handling of the mouth, feet, skin, coat and ears. This makes tooth brushing, bathing, clipping and veterinary visits less stressful.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy has to greet everyone. Instead, let it encounter different people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and environments at a distance where it can still eat, think and choose whether to make contact. If it becomes frightened, make the situation easier and give it time to recover. This builds greater confidence than forcing an encounter.

## Health

There are no breed-specific health tests that must be completed before a Chinese Crested Dog litter can be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, SKK. The breed club does, however, issue clear breeding recommendations. The distinction matters when assessing a litter: guidance can be highly relevant without being mandatory.

The breed club states that both parents should have an eye examination no earlier than 18 months of age, with a certificate no more than one year old at the time of mating. It also states that both should have a known DNA status for primary lens luxation, PLL. In addition, it recommends a known DNA status for prcd-PRA and a known patellar status established from 12 months of age. A patellar examination is therefore an important point to check, but it is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Veterinary auscultation of the heart before breeding is described as desirable, rather than as a formal requirement or recommendation in the club's “must” and “should” categories.

Ask to see the result itself, its date and the dog's identity. A DNA test applies only to the mutation analysed and does not replace a clinical eye examination. A healthy carrier of a simple recessive condition does not automatically have to be excluded from breeding, but should be mated to a genetically clear dog so that affected puppies are not born. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

Eye conditions highlighted in the breed include PLL, different forms of PRA or retinopathy, and dry eye. Ask about examination results and symptoms in older relatives as well. The breed club's health review also discusses heart conditions that tend to appear later in life and indications of back problems. These findings justify questions about older relatives and early heart murmurs or back symptoms; they do not mean that every dog will become ill.

Hairlessness and dentition are linked through a variant of the FOXI3 gene, which affects the development of both hair and teeth. Hairless dogs may therefore lack some permanent teeth or have unusually shaped, forward-pointing teeth. Powder puffs do not have this specific genetic effect and should normally have a complete scissor bite. Congenitally missing teeth are not the same as periodontal disease, but both varieties need daily tooth brushing to limit plaque and gum disease. Monitor the change from puppy to adult teeth, and ask a vet to assess retained deciduous teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty chewing.

In a large UK study, median life expectancy was 13.4 years among 928 Chinese Crested Dogs. The confidence interval for the median was 13.0–13.8 years. This result describes the study population, not how long an individual dog will live.

## History & Origins

The breed's early history is uncertain. China is listed as the country of origin and Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard, but it is not possible to trace an unbroken line from ancient Chinese hairless dogs to today's breed. Stories about dogs aboard trading ships, rat-catching and life during the Han dynasty should therefore be treated as theories rather than established facts.

The documented modern milestones are clearer. Chinese Crested Dogs were shown in the United States between 1885 and 1926, after which they were scarcely seen for nearly 50 years. Organised breeding in Britain was re-established with imports from the United States between 1965 and 1968. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1972, the first Swedish litter was born that year, and the dogs were registered with SKK in 1973. The Chinese Crested Club of Sweden was founded in 1990.

## Living with the Breed

The type of home does not by itself determine whether a Chinese Crested Dog will thrive. Both a flat and a house can work if the dog receives activity, rest and gradual training to be left alone. Assess the home in terms of noise, access to suitable places for walks and how easily the dog can get away from draughts, strong sunlight and commotion. A small body does not mean small needs.

A young puppy should not be left alone. Once it feels secure at home, training can begin with the puppy relaxing while you move behind a gate or leave the room very briefly. Increase the time only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can often cope alone for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. A camera can help reveal pacing, panting, barking or an inability to settle.

Cats and other dogs can live successfully with the breed, but low prey drive or trouble-free coexistence cannot be promised on the basis of breed alone. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing, and give the cat a secure escape route and separate resources. Adapt play to the dogs' sizes and communication styles. Small pets should be kept safely apart unless you can control the situation with confidence.

The right home needs to be ready for the differences between the two coat varieties, daily dental care and a dog that needs both closeness and the ability to feel secure on its own. Meet adult relatives if possible, see the puppy untrimmed and check documented health results. These checks say far more than promises that all Chinese Crested Dogs are quiet, allergy-friendly or automatically easy family pets.

Chinese Crested Dog

The Chinese Crested Dog is a fine‑boned toy breed, either hairless with silky crest and furnishings or Powder Puff with a soft full coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, they train well with gentle methods, need protection and care for skin or coat, and moderate daily exercise.

Vovverollens

## Quick Facts

The Papillon is a small, lively and quick-learning companion dog that often suits someone who wants to combine closeness with walks, training and everyday enrichment. The breed belongs to the Épagneul Nain Continental, or Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon has erect ears, while the Phalène variety has drop ears. In Sweden they are registered according to ear carriage, and a dog can be re-registered if its ears develop differently from the initial assessment.

- **Origin:** France and Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Height at the withers:** about 28 cm according to the breed standard
- **Weight:** the standard has two weight classes. The larger ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 kg for males and up to 5 kg for females. The other covers dogs under 2.5 kg, with 1.5 kg as the minimum weight.
- **Coat:** long, silky and without an undercoat
- **Activity level:** small in stature but often lively, willing to work and keen to learn
- **Longevity:** many reach an advanced age; according to the Swedish Kennel Club, 15 years is not unusual

Measurements in a breed standard describe an ideal, not a promise that every adult dog will be exactly that size. For a prospective owner, the parents’ size, the dog’s body condition and sound construction are therefore more useful than pursuing a particular figure or an extremely small individual.

## Appearance & Coat

The Papillon should be a harmoniously built toy dog that is graceful yet robust. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, light and elegant. Its small size calls for care around falls and play with much larger dogs, but the breed standard does not describe the Papillon as a fragile dog.

The large ears are the breed’s most distinctive feature. In the Papillon they stand erect and are carried obliquely outwards, resembling a butterfly’s wings. The Phalène instead has mobile drop ears. The difference is therefore ear carriage; both are varieties of the same Continental Toy Spaniel and can be born in the same litter.

The coat is single, without an undercoat, and should be abundant, glossy and slightly wavy rather than curly. It is short on the head and fronts of the legs but longer over the body, ears, chest, thighs and tail. White is the ground colour and must predominate on the body and legs. Coloured patches may be of different colours, while the lips, eye rims and nose should be well pigmented under the standard.

Coat care is usually manageable if tangles are prevented. Check the coat regularly and comb especially behind the ears and on the inner thighs, where the Swedish Kennel Club says tangles may readily form. Bathe the dog when it is dirty; no fixed calendar suits every individual. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. Base care on the dog’s actual coat and daily life rather than a fixed bathing or clipping routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Papillon is typically alert, lively and quick to learn, with a marked interest in people and activities. Its small body often contains more willingness to work than the label “lapdog” suggests. A Papillon may enjoy both close company and tasks involving concentration, problem-solving or body awareness.

Breed descriptions should not, however, be read as a guarantee of a particular personality. The Swedish Kennel Club’s BPH behavioural analysis shows considerable variation among participating Papillons, including how intensely they greet strangers, how readily they play and how curious they are. The results apply to the dogs assessed and primarily show why the individual, family lines, early experiences and continuing training all matter.

Alertness may show in how quickly the dog notices sounds, visitors and movement outside the home. This need not become a major barking problem, but it is sensible to reward calm behaviour from the start, give the dog an alternative task at the door and avoid allowing every signal to lead to excitement. Ask the breeder how the parents function in daily life, not only how they behave at shows or during training.

## Training & Exercise

The Papillon needs physical movement and mental enrichment every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy, fit adult can often join surprisingly substantial walks, while a puppy, older dog or individual with a health problem needs a different load. Adjust activity to age, fitness, weather and recovery rather than treating body size as a measure of need.

The breed often learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training with clear criteria works well. Vary everyday obedience, scent work, balance exercises and small problem-solving tasks, and finish while the dog can still concentrate. Agility, obedience and other dog sports can be a good fit when training is developed gradually and the surface, obstacles and load are adapted to the dog’s size and maturity.

A small dog needs the same care with recall and exposure to different environments as a large one. Practise engagement and returning in safe places before allowing freedom where traffic, wildlife or larger dogs could present a risk. Also teach the dog to settle between activities. A Papillon given only high-energy tasks may become very good at getting excited but less skilled at relaxing again.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Papillon as a generally sound and often long-lived breed, but responsible health screening remains important. For Swedish litters, pap-PRA1 is the clearest formal checkpoint. Pap-PRA1 is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, which damages the retina. It is autosomal recessive: a carrier has one copy of the variant and does not develop that particular form, while a genetically affected dog has inherited the variant from both parents.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result for pap-PRA1 or to be recorded as hereditarily clear. Two carriers may not be mated, and an affected dog may not be used for breeding. A pap-PRA1 DNA test does not, however, rule out every other genetic cause of PRA or other eye diseases. An eye examination therefore serves a different purpose. The Swedish breed club, Papillon-Ringen, recommends an eye examination after three years of age to monitor other eye changes.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known normal patella result before mating. This is an important recommendation, but the current Swedish Kennel Club rules do not list patella status as a specific registration requirement for the Papillon. Ask to see the result rather than assuming registration itself covers it.

In other countries, recommended programmes may include additional tests. For example, the UK’s Royal Kennel Club lists an NAD test among the additional checks for the Papillon. This does not make NAD a Swedish registration requirement. Ask the breeder to distinguish between mandatory Swedish results, breed-club recommendations and optional additional tests.

Oral health also deserves attention. Small dog breeds are more often affected by periodontal disease, and daily tooth brushing is a simple way to reduce the risk of severe tartar and painful periodontitis. Bad breath, bleeding gums or reluctance to chew should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Papillon originates from France and Belgium and is the erect-eared variety of the Continental Toy Spaniel. The type has been documented since the 16th century and appeared as a companion dog at European courts. The name Papillon means butterfly in French and refers to the large, obliquely carried ears with long fringes. Phalène means moth and is the name used for the drop-eared variety.

The FCI recognises the breed as number 77 in the companion and toy dog group. The modern standard retains both the Papillon and the Phalène. Its history explains the breed’s role as a companion, but the modern Papillon is not merely decorative: its liveliness and readiness to learn are evident in many present-day dog activities.

## Living with the Breed

The Papillon can live well in either a flat or a house when given daily activity, closeness and help learning to settle. The size of the home matters less than the shape of everyday life. A home where many sounds carry requires extra work on calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows, as an alert individual may otherwise begin to comment on every change.

The breed can live well with children, but this depends on the dog’s temperament, the child’s behaviour and adult supervision. Teach children to leave the dog undisturbed while it sleeps or eats, not to pick it up or grab it, and to play at floor level under supervision. This protects both dog and child and is more accurate than a general “child-friendly” label.

The same individual assessment is needed with other animals. A Papillon can live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Give the animals separate resources and places to retreat, and supervise play where there is a large difference in size. A friendly large dog can injure a very small dog accidentally.

Being left alone is a skill, not something that can be assumed from breed. Accustom the dog gradually to short periods alone and increase them only while it remains relaxed. Barking, whining, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing a normally valued reward can indicate that the step was too large.

Before buying a puppy, check more than its appearance. Ask to see the parents’ registered pap-PRA1 results, patella status and any eye results, and ask why that particular mating was chosen. Meet the dam and notice how the dogs recover after new sounds and visitors. For a puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, you should receive the registration certificate, the Swedish Kennel Club contract and a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old on the day of handover. Screening reduces risk but can never guarantee a particular state of health or personality; open documentation and realistic expectations therefore matter more than promises.

Papillon

Papillon Breed Club UK

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Papillon is a small, elegant toy dog with large butterfly-like ears, a fine, silky parti-coloured coat and a plumed tail. Lively, intelligent and highly trainable, it enjoys activity and mental stimulation, makes an alert watchdog, needs regular brushing, and often lives into the mid–late teens.

Golden Leafs

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Retrieving Hearts

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Fixus

## Quick Facts

The Cane Corso is an FCI-recognised breed from Italy. It belongs to Group 2 and is a molossoid of mastiff type, not a crossbreed or a generic name for large guard dogs.

- **Size:** males 64–68 cm and 45–50 kg; females 60–64 cm and 40–45 kg. Weight should be proportionate to the dog's size.
- **Function:** a versatile working dog with a documented background as a guardian of property, family, and livestock.
- **Temperament:** alert, mobile, and highly trainable according to the breed standard. The breed may be reserved with strangers, but fear and unjustified aggression are not part of the ideal.
- **Activity:** needs physical exercise, mental engagement, and continued training every day. There is no credible minute-by-minute schedule that suits every individual.
- **Coat:** short, glossy, and dense with some undercoat; brush and bathe as needed.
- **Owner:** the Swedish Kennel Club considers the breed generally unsuitable as a first dog. Its size, strength, and guarding behaviour require an experienced owner.
- **Before buying a puppy in Sweden:** check the parents' official hip dysplasia (HD) and elbow dysplasia (ED) results, completed BPH behavioural assessment when a parent lives in Sweden, and how the breeder has assessed DSRA status and temperament in the pairing.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cane Corso should be powerful without becoming heavy or exaggerated. The breed standard describes a robust dog with a degree of elegance, lean musculature, and a body approximately 11 per cent longer than its height. It should move with long, efficient strides.

The head is large and typical of a molossoid, but an extremely short muzzle is not correct breed type. The muzzle should be about half the length of the skull, powerful, deep, and square. Wide nostrils, sound eyelids, and unrestricted breathing matter more than an exaggerated “massive” expression. The Nordic Kennel Union's Breed Specific Instructions particularly identify an overly short muzzle, pinched nostrils, loose eyelids, insufficient rear angulation, and inefficient movement.

Under the current standard, the ears should be triangular, hanging, and uncropped. The tail should be natural, thick at the root, and never carried upright or curled. Cropping is therefore not a requirement of correct breed type.

The coat should be short, glossy, and very dense with some undercoat. The standard lists black; several shades of grey, also termed blue; light or dark fawn; stag red; dark wheaten; and black or grey brindle. In fawn and brindle dogs, the black or grey mask must not extend above the eyes. A small white patch on the chest, toe tips, or bridge of the nose is accepted. Merle is not among the colours permitted by the standard.

Coat care is straightforward but still necessary. Brush when the dog is shedding or loose hair needs removing, bathe when dirty, and check the skin, ears, nails, and teeth at the same time. A fixed bathing or brushing schedule is less useful than the dog's actual needs.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cane Corso is a guard dog, but guarding instinct is not the same as aggression. The breed's documented task is to guard property, family, and livestock. In everyday life, this may appear as attention to visitors, sounds, and changes in the environment, together with a reserved attitude towards unfamiliar people.

There is considerable variation in both working traits and everyday behaviour. A confident dog may have no interest in greeting without being afraid. At the same time, it should be able to let go of suspicion, remain neutral in ordinary situations, and accept necessary handling. Excessive suspicion, severe fear, or aggression should never be excused as “typical of the breed.”

This is generally a poor choice for an inexperienced dog owner. Experience means being able to read signs of stress, train a very strong dog without a power struggle, plan visits and dog encounters, and seek help early. An adult dog needs to be able to walk on a lead, wait at the door, disengage on cue, and accept examination.

A Cane Corso can live in a family with children, but the breed name does not guarantee that a particular dog is suitable for children. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it is left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog whose strength they cannot manage.

The same individual assessment applies to other dogs and cats. Introducing a cat requires gradual habituation, separate safe areas, and the ability to interrupt the interaction. A dog that strongly chases small animals is not automatically a safe companion for a cat.

## Training & Exercise

The Cane Corso needs an active life, but quality and control matter more than a fixed number of exercise minutes. Each day should include walks and other physical movement, mental activity, and opportunities to settle. Adapt the load to age, health, surface, and recovery; a growing young dog should not follow the training plan of a fully mature adult.

Tracking, search work, nose work, and obedience give the dog opportunities to cooperate and use its nose. A garden provides freedom of movement but does not replace walks, environmental training, or shared activity. The dog also needs to be able to settle indoors.

Reward-based training is the right starting point even for a large guard dog. Harsh corrections, intimidation, and dominance-based thinking can increase conflict and distress; clarity comes from well-taught cues, consistent routines, and a thoughtfully managed environment. Prioritise these skills early:

- walking on a loose lead and a reliable recall
- stop and release cues
- waiting calmly at doors, gates, and the car
- going to a designated resting place when visitors arrive
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears, and body
- passing people and dogs neutrally

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy should greet everyone. The aim is for it to experience people, animals, traffic, surfaces, and new environments without feeling a need to defend itself or push forward. Short, controlled experiences in which the dog feels safe are more valuable than numerous forced encounters.

## Health

Joint health is the clearest health priority for the Cane Corso in Sweden. The current breed-specific breeding strategy particularly highlights hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and other joint injuries. Eyes and eyelids are another priority, especially cherry eye, entropion, and ectropion. The Breed Specific Instructions also emphasise rear angulation, muzzle length, open nostrils, close-fitting eyelids, movement, and confident handling.

Puppy buyers need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules from breed-club recommendations. Under the 2026 rules for the Cane Corso:

- Parent dogs must have official HD status before mating. Dogs graded HD D or E may not be used for breeding.
- Parent dogs must have official ED status before mating. ED grade 2 or 3, clinical symptoms, or surgery because of ED exclude a dog from breeding.
- Parent dogs resident in Sweden must have completed BPH before mating. For dogs assessed before 1 January 2019, known mental status from MH may replace BPH.

The breed club additionally recommends that the parents' mean HD index and mean ED index at the time of mating exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with binding registration rules.

DSRA, Dental Skeletal Retinal Anomaly, is a serious recessively inherited disease that can affect the teeth, skeleton, and vision, among other systems. A puppy becomes affected when it inherits the variant from both parents; a dog with one copy is a carrier. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to register DSRA test results centrally. This does not mean that every breeding dog automatically has to be tested. Ask the breeder to show how the parents' status was assessed and why the pairing cannot produce affected puppies.

Look at the dogs as well as the certificates. Parent dogs should be able to move efficiently, breathe quietly and without difficulty, have healthy eyes, and accept handling without severe fear. Ask about serious diagnoses in close relatives. A normal test result does not guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy.

## History & Origins

The Cane Corso is an Italian breed whose official standard traces it primarily to ancient Roman molossoid dogs. After the type had previously existed across larger parts of Italy, it was preserved in more recent centuries mainly in and around Apulia in southern Italy. The standard links the name to the Latin *cohors*, meaning defender and guardian of the farmyard.

The breed worked as a farm and guard dog, drove livestock, and was also used to hunt big game. This explains its combination of strength, mobility, endurance, and independent vigilance better than stories that portray it only as a war dog.

The FCI recognised the Cane Corso provisionally in 1996 and definitively in 2007. Today it is listed as an Italian molossoid of mastiff type in Group 2 and as a breed subject to a working trial. Its historical work remains relevant when deciding whether the breed suits a particular way of life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Cane Corso primarily requires planning for a large dog that independently notices what is happening around it. The type of home is not the whole answer. A flat can work for an individual whose needs are met and who can settle, but narrow entrances, lifts, frequent dog encounters, and many visitors place high demands on training and practical control. A large garden does not solve those demands by itself.

Visitor routines should be in place before the dog tries to manage the front door for the family. Provide a resting place behind a gate or in a separate room, teach a calm routine, and do not allow the dog to practise rushing forward or making decisions about guests. Homes with children or other animals need separate areas and adults who can apply the rules every day, not only after a problem has appeared.

Time alone should be trained gradually. Begin with very short periods, increase them only when the dog can rest, and adjust the training if it shows anxiety or distress. There is no reliable breed rule for how many hours a Cane Corso can cope with; arrangements must reflect the individual dog's age, confidence, and need for toilet breaks and social contact.

Before buying, meet several adult Cane Corsos, preferably away from their homes as well. Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check HD, ED, and BPH in official records. Ask about DSRA status, temperament, serious diagnoses in the family, the puppies' environmental training, and support after collection. Observe whether the adults can breathe, move, and be handled without difficulty.

The right home provides clear routines, reward-based training, daily activity, and calm recovery. If you want a dog that welcomes every person and dog without preparation, or if you cannot manage encounters and visitors, the Cane Corso is probably the wrong choice. For an experienced owner who values the breed's working ability and takes responsibility for its strength, however, it can become a close and cooperative everyday companion.

Cane Corso

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Società Amatori Cane Corso (Italy)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

The Cane Corso is a large, athletic Italian mastiff with a short, easy-care coat and strong guarding instincts. Deeply devoted and sensitive, it needs experienced, consistent handling, thorough socialization, and substantial daily exercise and training to stay balanced.

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