Portuguese Podengo Pequeno

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Smallest of the Portuguese Podengos, the Pequeno is a compact, athletic rabbit hunter with smooth or wire coat. Alert, loyal and affectionate with family, it’s reserved with strangers and a keen watchdog. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, positive training and basic grooming.

Mioamor

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

Monica Sari Laine

Briard

The Briard Club of Great Britain

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Briard is a large, ancient French herding dog with a long, wavy coat, beard, and eyebrows. Loyal and sensitive, it bonds deeply with family yet stays reserved with strangers. Intelligent and energetic, it needs ample exercise, positive training, and regular grooming to thrive.

Else Marie Ulimoen

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small but powerful herding and cattle dog that is now kept mainly as an active companion. It is best suited to someone who wants to combine walks with everyday training, scent work or other forms of mental activity.

- Height at the withers: approximately 25–30 centimetres
- Breed-standard weight: 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females
- Country of origin: Great Britain, with the breed’s working history rooted in Wales
- Coat: a medium-length double coat that sheds, particularly during heavier seasonal moults
- Temperament: the ideal is a bold, alert and friendly dog, but individuals vary considerably
- Lifespan: the Swedish breed club describes many dogs as reaching 12–14 years, although health and longevity vary

The Pembroke and the Welsh Corgi Cardigan are two separate breeds, not varieties of the same breed. They differ in features such as size, colour and tail. Do not choose between them on the strength of simplistic claims that one is always calmer or more sociable.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke should be low-set, strong and sturdily built without appearing heavy or restricted. The body is medium in length, the chest is broad and deep, and the ears are upright. Despite its short legs, a healthy Pembroke should move freely and actively.

The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25–30 centimetres, a weight of 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females. These figures are guidelines, not the correct target weight for every dog. Body condition and muscle mass must also be considered.

The coat has straight, medium-length outer hair and a dense undercoat. Permitted colours are red, sable, fawn, and black and tan. They may appear with or without white on the legs, chest and neck; a small amount of white on the head and muzzle is also allowed.

Older descriptions can give the impression that every Pembroke has a short tail. In fact, puppies may be born with a full tail or a natural bobtail of varying length. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden unless it is medically necessary. A docked dog is therefore not Swedish-bred, so its origin and import documents should be checked carefully.

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is generally a little taller, has a long, fox-like tail and comes in a wider range of permitted colours. Colour or personality cannot identify the breed reliably; the pedigree establishes which breed the dog belongs to.

The coat does not require trimming. Brush it regularly and brush through the undercoat when shedding increases. This removes loose hair and makes changes in the skin easier to spot. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than to a fixed timetable. Calmly accustom the puppy to brushing, nail care and tooth brushing.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a bold, workmanlike, outgoing and friendly dog. However, the Swedish Kennel Club’s current BPH behaviour analysis shows considerable variation among the dogs assessed. Some greet strangers enthusiastically, while others show much less interest. A breed description therefore cannot predict exactly how any particular puppy will develop.

The Pembroke’s background as a farm and cattle dog is often reflected in watchfulness, quick reactions and an ability to make its own decisions. Many enjoy working with their owner, but some need more practice to choose the handler over events in their surroundings. This can make the breed rewarding to train, although everyday cooperation should not be taken for granted.

The Swedish Kennel Club highlights possible tendencies to guard, bark and nip at heels. The last of these is linked to the breed’s historical work close to the hind legs of cattle, but herding behaviour is not identical in every dog. Nipping at running children, feet or trouser legs should still be stopped early. Reward calm contact, attentiveness and choosing an appropriate task instead.

Vocal behaviour also varies. A Pembroke may react to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or anticipation, but the breed name alone does not determine whether barking will become a problem. Ask how the puppy’s parents and close relatives behave at home. Establish calm routines around the door, visitors and rest from the outset.

For a family with children, the right individual and a well-managed routine matter more than the label “family dog”. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes or miles will not suit every dog. Age, health, fitness and what the walk involves all matter more than a standard timetable.

A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that requires concentration, such as searching for food, tracking or learning practical skills. Balance calm activities with movement and planned rest. A dog that runs a great deal but never learns to settle may still find it difficult to relax.

Start early with recall, loose-lead walking, impulse control and a calm cue that interrupts barking or nipping. Reward-based training makes the desired choice clear to the dog. Keep sessions focused and finish while the dog is still engaged rather than repeating the same exercise until interest fades.

The breed may enjoy obedience, rally, tracking, scent work and agility. Choose an activity to suit the individual dog’s body and motivation. Not every Pembroke has herding ability simply because the breed historically worked cattle; these qualities must be assessed in the individual.

Short legs are not a reason to treat a healthy adult dog as fragile. Build fitness and muscle gradually and provide good grip on slippery floors. Adjust exercise for puppies, older dogs and dogs recovering from injury. Sudden pain, reluctance to move, lameness or weakness calls for veterinary assessment, not blanket advice about stairs or ramps.

## Health

The Swedish breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as a generally healthy breed, but buyers should still check hips, eyes and documented health in the family. It is important to distinguish between registration requirements, breed-club advice and DNA tests that happen to be available.

Since January 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club has required both parents to have an official hip status before mating if their puppies are to be registered. Ask to see the results and how the breeder evaluated the proposed pairing; “X-rayed” does not mean that the result was clear.

Svenska Welsh Corgi Klubben, the Swedish breed club, also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination before mating. Ask for current results for both parents and about eye findings in close relatives. The club also monitors lameness and premature closure of the ulna, known as short ulna, which can cause the front leg to develop abnormally. A young dog with an increasingly turned-out foot, a curved foreleg or lameness should be examined promptly by a vet.

DNA tests for degenerative myelopathy, or DM, and von Willebrand disease type 1 are available for the breed, but their results must be interpreted correctly. The current Swedish breeding strategy describes the DM test as a risk test and does not recommend routine testing, because it does not give the complete clinical picture and the disease has not been documented as a major problem among Swedish dogs. For vWD type 1, the breed club withdrew its previous routine-testing advice after a review with the Swedish Kennel Club’s DNA group. A laboratory result does not in itself prove that a dog is ill or will become ill. Ask the breeder why a test was performed and how its result was balanced against other aspects of health and genetic diversity.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition throughout life. A clear waist should be visible from above, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Weigh the dog regularly, but do not let the figures in the breed standard replace a proper body-condition assessment. Consult a vet if weight changes without a clear reason or the dog needs a structured weight-loss programme.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke developed in Wales as a farm and herding dog, but its earliest origins have not been conclusively established. Theories involving Flemish weavers, Nordic spitz-type dogs and a relationship with the Swedish Vallhund should be treated as theories rather than settled history.

Its documented work on Welsh farms explains the breed more clearly. Pembrokes helped move cattle to and from barns, guarded farms and performed several other duties. As heelers, they drove cattle while working close to the animals’ hind legs. The task demanded alertness, mobility and determination, as well as both independence and cooperation.

Pembrokes and Cardigans developed their own distinctive features in Wales but were long treated collectively as Welsh Corgis. They were separated into two breeds in 1934. The FCI lists the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as breed number 39 in Group 1 for sheepdogs and cattle dogs.

In Sweden, Pembrokes live almost entirely as companion dogs, although some still herd. Their working heritage is more often expressed through dog sports, scent work and an everyday life in which they solve tasks with their owner.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Pembroke can live in a flat, terraced house or detached home if its routine provides enough activity, rest and companionship. Its low height does not make it inactive, and a garden cannot replace walks or training. In a flat, it is particularly important to work early on calm responses to sounds in shared areas, movement outside windows and activity at the door.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief periods and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed. Puppies and anxious dogs need particular care. Dogs also need to be taken out regularly during the day, so anyone working long hours must plan for company and daytime walks.

The breed can live with other dogs or cats, but compatibility depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give a cat dog-free places and a clear escape route, keep early meetings controlled and prevent chasing. Small pets should be protected from stress and physical contact. Previous experience with another species is useful information, but it cannot guarantee the next relationship.

The Pembroke can suit a first-time owner who enjoys training and can be consistent without using harsh methods. It is less suitable for someone who wants a dog content with very short walks, that sheds little, or that will automatically be quiet and compliant.

The breed has grown markedly in Sweden. Careful checks become even more important as a breed gains popularity. Meet the breeder and the puppy’s mother, and verify registration, microchip details, the veterinary examination certificate and official health results. If the dog is imported or has a docked tail, its origin and import documents should be clear. A sound decision rests on records, open answers and how the dogs actually behave, not photographs or promises of a particular temperament.

Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Association Française du Corgi

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small, sturdy herding dog with short legs, a fox-like face, and a weather-resistant double coat that sheds year-round. Intelligent, active, and people-oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, kind training, and careful weight and back management.

Hallo My Dog

Stokkenes

## Quick Facts

- Lively, intelligent terrier with strong hunting instincts and a surprisingly cuddly side at home  
- Sleek, shiny black and tan coat that barely sheds and is easy to keep clean  
- Compact and athletic, suited to active city living as well as houses with gardens  
- Often reserved or suspicious with strangers, but deeply loyal to their own people  
- Needs regular mental stimulation and training to keep that sharp terrier brain satisfied  

## Appearance & Coat

The Manchester Terrier is a small to medium sized, elegant terrier, built for speed and agility rather than bulk. Adults usually stand around 38 to 41 cm at the shoulder, with a weight that reflects a lean, athletic build rather than heaviness. When you look at one side on, you see a streamlined outline with a slightly arched neck, deep chest and a tucked up waist that hints at its rat-catching heritage.

The head is long and narrow with a flat skull and a keen, alert expression. Dark, almond shaped eyes give the dog an intelligent, slightly mischievous look. Ears can be naturally folded or, depending on country and local regulations, sometimes cropped in historical lines, but in modern European contexts you will mostly see small, V-shaped ears carried close to the head. The overall impression is of a refined dog that still looks capable of hard work.

The coat is one of the Manchester Terrier’s most distinctive features. It is:

- Short, close lying and very smooth to the touch  
- Glossy when in good condition  
- Always black and tan, with clear, sharply defined markings  

The tan markings appear above the eyes, on the muzzle and cheeks, on the chest, lower legs and under the tail. Good markings are a point of pride for many breeders. There should be no sooty blending or large patches of white beyond a very small spot on the chest, if any.

Coat care is straightforward. A quick brush once or twice a week with a soft rubber grooming mitt is usually enough to remove loose hairs and keep the coat shining. The breed sheds, but many owners find the shedding quite manageable compared with heavier coated breeds. Because the coat is so short, the skin can be sensitive, so avoid harsh shampoos and do not overbathe. A gentle bath every couple of months, or when truly dirty, is usually sufficient.

Cold and wet weather can be uncomfortable for such a sleek, lightly coated dog. Many Manchester Terriers appreciate a well fitted coat or jumper during winter walks, especially in windy or rainy climates. Regular nail trimming, ear checks and dental care complete the grooming routine and help keep this elegant terrier looking and feeling its best.

<x-quote text="Once we started using a soft grooming mitt every few days, his coat went from dull to mirror-shiny, and it only takes five minutes while we watch TV." from="Lina, Manchester Terrier owner" />

## Temperament & Personality

The Manchester Terrier is often described as a “big dog in a small body,” and that phrase fits well. This is a bright, confident and spirited companion that bonds closely with its family. Around their people, many Manchesters are affectionate, playful and sometimes quite clownish, happy to burrow under blankets or follow you from room to room.

With strangers, they can be reserved or aloof. They are not usually aggressive without reason, but they take their watchdog role seriously and will often alert bark when someone approaches the home. Early socialisation is important to prevent unnecessary suspicion or nervousness. When raised with positive experiences, most Manchesters learn to tolerate visitors calmly, although they may never be as socially enthusiastic as some other breeds.

With children, a well bred and well socialised Manchester Terrier can be a devoted companion, especially for slightly older, respectful kids. They are usually too delicate and quick moving to be an ideal match for very rough play. Families should teach children how to handle a small but fast, excitable dog, and always supervise interactions, especially in the early months.

Around other dogs, temperament varies. Many Manchester Terriers enjoy the company of dogs they know, particularly if they have grown up together. Some can be selective or assertive with unfamiliar dogs, especially of the same sex. Careful introductions, neutral meeting places and calm guidance from the owner help a lot. Obedience training and reliable recall are essential if your dog is off leash in areas where other dogs are present.

The greatest challenge for many owners is the Manchester’s strong prey drive. This breed was developed to chase and kill rats and other small vermin, and those instincts remain very strong today. Fast, darting movements from cats, rabbits or wildlife can trigger chasing, so early training and management are vital. Many individuals can live harmoniously with a resident cat if introduced carefully from puppyhood, but small pets like rodents are usually best kept completely separate.

At home, the breed tends to be relatively calm if their exercise and mental needs are met. Without enough stimulation, boredom can lead to problem behaviours such as excessive barking, digging or destructive chewing. This is a dog that likes to be involved, to think, and to move, and owners who enjoy an interactive relationship will find the Manchester Terrier a rewarding partner.

## Training & Exercise

Manchester Terriers are highly trainable, but they bring a terrier attitude to the table. They are clever, quick to learn and often quite food or toy motivated, yet they are also independent thinkers with a strong sense of what they want. Training works best when it is structured, fair and consistently rewarding.

Positive reinforcement methods suit this breed very well. Short, focused sessions using treats, toys, or access to favourite activities help keep their interest. Long, repetitive drills tend to bore them, and a bored Manchester may start inventing its own games. Clear rules, combined with plenty of praise for correct choices, give the dog confidence and deepen the bond between you.

Many owners find success by:

- Starting early with puppy classes and socialisation  
- Prioritising a solid recall and good leash manners  
- Teaching impulse control through exercises like “wait,” “leave it” and calm greetings  
- Introducing fun activities such as scent games, tricks or basic agility  

In terms of exercise, the breed is active and athletic, but not uncontrollable. A healthy adult generally needs:

- At least one good walk of 45 to 60 minutes per day, or two shorter walks  
- Several short play or training sessions spread across the day  
- Regular opportunities to run freely in a safe, enclosed area  

Some Manchesters can adapt to a slightly lower level of activity if they receive a lot of mental stimulation through training and puzzle games, but they are not suited to a very sedentary lifestyle. They particularly enjoy fast running, chasing toys, and problem solving tasks that use their nose and quick reflexes.

Dog sports can be an excellent outlet. Many Manchester Terriers thrive in:

- Agility  
- Rally obedience  
- Flyball  
- Nose work or scent detection games  

These activities channel their natural energy and hunting drive into structured work. They also build confidence and provide social exposure in a controlled environment.

Consistency is important. Without clear boundaries, a Manchester Terrier can become pushy or noisy. They are quick to discover what works to get attention, including barking or pestering. If you are patient, firm in a kind way, and ready to laugh at their antics while guiding them, training becomes a very enjoyable shared project.

<x-quote text="What surprised me most was how quickly he picked up new cues once I shortened sessions to five minutes and used tiny treats. If I push it too long, he just starts improvising his own tricks." from="Oskar, first-time dog owner" />

## Health

The Manchester Terrier is generally a robust and long lived breed. Many individuals reach 13 to 15 years of age when well cared for, and some live even longer. As with all purebred dogs, there are certain health issues that breeders and owners pay particular attention to.

Conditions reported in the breed include:

- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap can slip out of place and cause lameness  
- Hip issues in some lines, although the breed is not among the worst affected  
- Eye problems such as cataracts and, in some populations, inherited lens luxation  
- Von Willebrand disease and other clotting disorders in certain bloodlines  
- Allergies and skin sensitivities, especially related to diet, parasites or environmental triggers  

Responsible breeders use health testing to reduce the risk of inherited problems. Depending on the country and breeding club recommendations, this may include:

- Eye examinations by a veterinary ophthalmologist  
- Patella checks  
- Hip evaluation  
- Genetic tests for specific conditions if present in the line  

If you are buying a puppy, do not hesitate to ask which tests the parents have undergone, and request to see copies of the results. A reputable breeder will be proud to discuss this.

Routine care is just as important as genetics. Keeping your Manchester at a healthy weight protects the joints and reduces the risk of many diseases. The breed’s slim frame makes even a small amount of extra weight quite visible, so it is helpful to learn how to check body condition by hand.

Regular dental care is essential as smaller breeds can be prone to tartar and gum disease. Daily tooth brushing, combined with appropriate chew items, can make a remarkable difference to long term oral health.

Vaccinations, parasite prevention, and annual veterinary check ups allow early detection of problems. Many health issues, from heart murmurs to dental disease, are easier and cheaper to manage when spotted early.

<x-quote text="Manchester Terriers are often healthy, active seniors, but owners should still plan ahead for insurance and routine care, as long lifespans mean long term responsibility." from="Get a Pet Editorial" />

## History & Origins

The Manchester Terrier has deep roots in the working class streets and countryside of Britain. Its direct ancestors were small black and tan terriers that were common in the 18th and 19th centuries, valued for their fierce determination in hunting rats and other vermin. These agile dogs worked in stables, warehouses and farms, protecting food stores and livestock from disease carrying rodents.

During the 1800s, when rat baiting and other blood sports were unfortunately popular, these terriers became famous for their speed and efficiency in rat pits. At the same time, there was interest in creating a sleeker, more refined dog that could also accompany gentlemen on walks or rides. Selective breeding between the old black and tan terriers and Whippet type dogs produced a more elegant, streamlined dog that retained the terrier drive.

The city of Manchester in England became a strong centre for this breeding, and the name Manchester Terrier eventually stuck. Over time, the breed moved away from its sporting origins and became more of a companion and show dog, although the instinct to chase and hunt remained firmly in place.

Throughout the 20th century, the Manchester Terrier struggled at times with low numbers, especially during and after the World Wars when keeping dogs was difficult. Dedicated breeders worked hard to preserve the breed’s unique look and character. In some countries, the toy and standard sizes have been treated as closely related but distinct varieties, while in others they are considered parts of the same breed concept.

Today, the Manchester Terrier is still relatively rare in many parts of the world compared to more mainstream companion breeds. Enthusiasts appreciate it as a link to traditional British terrier history, combined with a modern, manageable size and a low maintenance coat. The breed is now primarily a family companion and an active partner in dog sports, though the old rat hunting instinct is very much alive in their enjoyment of chasing toys, scent games and fast paced activities.

<x-quote text="Understanding this breed’s roots as a determined ratter explains a lot of modern behaviour, from intense toy focus to that lightning fast reaction to movement in the garden." from="Get a Pet Editorial" />

## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Manchester Terrier is both rewarding and demanding. This is not a dog that is content to be a decorative accessory. They want involvement, interaction and a fair amount of structure. For active individuals or families who enjoy training and outdoor time, they can be a near perfect match.

In terms of living space, the Manchester adapts well to apartments and city life, provided exercise needs are met. Their compact size and low shedding coat make them easy to manage indoors. However, thin walls and close neighbours can turn barking into a real issue if not addressed through training and sufficient mental stimulation. A house with a securely fenced garden gives more freedom, but does not replace walks and proper outings.

Daily life usually includes:

- Morning and evening walks  
- Short training or trick sessions  
- Interactive play with toys or scent games at home  
- Time simply spent together, often with the dog curled up close by  

They are often quite attached to their people and may not enjoy being left alone for long hours on a regular basis. Gradual training to be comfortable alone, combined with puzzle toys and a predictable routine, can help prevent separation related problems.

Financially, owning a Manchester Terrier means budgeting for quality food, routine veterinary care, vaccines and parasite treatments, grooming basics, insurance and equipment. While they do not eat as much as large breeds and do not need expensive professional grooming, long term costs can still be significant over a 13 to 15 year lifespan. Many owners choose dedicated [pet insurance](https://getapet.com/en/pet-insurance) to manage unexpected veterinary bills.

Useful equipment for living with a Manchester Terrier typically includes:

- A well fitted harness and lightweight leash  
- Weather appropriate coats for cold or wet climates  
- A variety of toys, including chew toys and puzzle feeders  
- A comfortable bed, often with blankets, as many like to burrow  
- Secure fencing or safe long lines for controlled off leash exploration  

If you have other pets, particularly small animals, you will need to think carefully about management. The hunting instinct is real, and even a dog that seems calm indoors may be triggered by fast movement. Early, careful introductions and clear rules are crucial if you plan to mix species.

For first time dog owners, the Manchester Terrier can be a good choice if you are ready to invest time in training and learning. Their intelligence and sensitivity mean that your own habits, consistency and mood will shape their behaviour strongly.

<x-quote text="The breed’s combination of elegance, drive and sensitivity means they thrive in homes where people enjoy teaching, playing and being genuinely present in the dog’s everyday life." from="Get a Pet Editorial" />

Manchester Terrier

Svenska Terrierklubben (Swedish Terrier Club)

American Kennel Club (Referenced from the UK site)

Bayerische Landestierärztekammer (Bavarian State Veterinary Chamber)

Elegant, compact black-and-tan terrier, lively and intelligent with strong hunting instincts and high prey drive. Affectionate and cuddly with family but often reserved with strangers. Needs regular exercise, mental stimulation, positive training, and protection from cold due to its sleek coat.

Anja Viker Sandemose

Hamilton Hound

The Norwegian Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Hamilton Hound is a Swedish tricolour scent hound, medium‑large, athletic and robust. Calm, friendly and affectionate at home, it has strong hunting drive, a loud voice and needs substantial daily exercise, training and mental stimulation. Coat care is simple.

Jan Helge Hagen

## Quick Facts

- Distinctive blue coat that changes color as the dog matures  
- Originally bred in Ireland as an all‑purpose farm and hunting dog  
- Lively, intelligent terrier that thrives on close contact with its family  
- Low‑shedding, curly coat that requires regular grooming to avoid matting  
- Bold, spirited character that combines clown‑like charm with serious determination  


## Appearance & Coat

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a medium‑sized, strongly built terrier with a proud, almost aristocratic outline. At first glance you notice the elegant head, the distinctive beard and furnishings, and of course the famous blue coat. Adult males usually stand around 45 to 49 cm at the shoulder, with females slightly smaller. The body is compact and muscular, with a straight back and a deep chest that hints at the breed’s working background. Despite the sturdy build, a good Kerry should never look heavy or clumsy. The overall impression is of a balanced, athletic dog that could work all day in the fields.

The head is long and clean, without exaggeration. A neatly trimmed beard and eyebrows give the Kerry Blue its expressive look, somewhere between serious thinker and mischievous comedian. Dark, oval eyes are set fairly close together and should look keen and intelligent, never harsh. The ears fold forward in a V shape, adding to the terrier expression. The tail is usually carried high and straight, giving a lively, alert appearance.

The coat is one of the breed’s most famous features. Puppies are usually born black or very dark, and the blue color develops gradually over the first few years of life. Many Kerries pass through “in between” shades such as steel grey, slate, or a mix of blue and black before settling into their adult color. The ideal coat is soft, dense, and wavy, not harsh or wiry. It should form gentle curls rather than tight ringlets.

The Kerry Blue Terrier has a single coat with very little shedding, which can be a benefit for people who dislike dog hair around the home. However, this low‑shedding coat comes with a commitment to regular grooming. Without attention, the soft hair will mat and tangle, especially behind the ears, under the collar, in the beard, and between the legs.

For practical coat care:

- Brush or comb thoroughly at least two to three times a week, working right down to the skin to remove tangles. A pin brush and a metal comb are very useful.  
- Check common trouble spots such as armpits, groin, beard, and behind the ears where small mats can form quickly.  
- Bathe your Kerry Blue Terrier every four to six weeks, or as needed, using a mild dog shampoo that does not strip the coat. Thorough rinsing and drying help keep the coat healthy.  
- Professional trimming or clipping is usually required about every six to eight weeks to maintain the typical terrier silhouette. Many owners learn to trim at home with guidance from breeders or grooming clubs.  

The beard and moustache need special care, as food and water can quickly make them messy. Wiping the beard after meals and checking for trapped debris will keep your Kerry more comfortable and prevent unpleasant odors. With consistent grooming, the coat feels soft and luxurious and becomes one of the greatest pleasures of living with this unique terrier.


## Temperament & Personality

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a dog with a big personality, often described as “a terrier with a sense of humor.” Intelligent, lively, and full of character, this is not a dull or passive breed. Kerries tend to bond very closely to their families. They enjoy being involved in everything that happens at home, whether it is gardening, watching television, or going for a drive. Many owners report that their Kerry follows them from room to room, always ready to join in or offer “help” in its own enthusiastic way.

With people, the Kerry Blue Terrier is usually affectionate and devoted. A well‑raised Kerry is typically good with children, particularly those who are respectful and understand how to behave around dogs. The breed enjoys play and can be a tireless companion for active youngsters who like to throw balls, learn tricks, or practice dog sports. Supervision is important with smaller children, both to protect the child from accidental knocks and to make sure the dog is treated gently. Like most terriers, Kerries do not appreciate rough handling and may object if teased or pulled.

The Kerry Blue is known for its confident and sometimes bold nature. This can be very appealing, because it gives the dog plenty of charm and presence, but it also means clear rules are important from an early age. Many Kerries are naturally watchful and will bark to alert their family to visitors or unusual sounds. While they are not typically aggressive guard dogs, they can be protective of their home and people if they feel there is a threat.

With other dogs, especially of the same sex, Kerry Blue Terriers can be assertive. The breed was developed in part for hunting and vermin control, so a degree of dog‑to‑dog and prey drive is not surprising. Proper socialization from puppyhood, involving controlled, positive meetings with friendly dogs, helps a great deal. However, some adult Kerries may still prefer not to share space with unfamiliar dogs, and they often do best with confident, experienced owners who can manage interactions calmly. Living with another dog in the same household is very possible, particularly if introductions are done early and personalities are well matched.

When it comes to other pets, such as cats or small animals, the Kerry’s hunting background needs to be taken seriously. Some individuals can live peacefully with a resident cat if raised together and supervised, but many still have a strong chase instinct outdoors. Very small pets like rabbits or rodents are usually best kept safely separate.

The breed’s intelligence and energy can lead to mischief if the dog is bored. A lonely Kerry with little mental stimulation may bark, dig, or invent its own entertainments that do not fit well with human expectations. On the positive side, this same cleverness means the Kerry Blue Terrier often excels in training, problem solving, and interactive games. In the right environment, with structure, affection, and enough activity, the Kerry is a joyful, loyal, and very entertaining companion.


## Training & Exercise

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a bright, capable breed that learns quickly and enjoys having a job to do. At the same time, it has a typical terrier streak of independence and may question why a particular exercise is necessary. This combination means training should be consistent, engaging, and never heavy handed. Positive reinforcement works best, using rewards such as food treats, toys, praise, and play. Kerries respond well to trainers who are calm, confident, and fair.

Early socialization is essential. From a young age, expose your Kerry puppy to a variety of sights, sounds, surfaces, and people. Well managed puppy classes can help build confidence and manners. Focus on:

- Reliable recall, so you can call your Kerry back even when interesting distractions appear.  
- Calm greeting behavior, both with people and other dogs.  
- Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, and walking on a loose lead.  

Because the Kerry Blue Terrier is energetic and often quite agile, it tends to enjoy dog sports. Many individuals excel in agility, obedience, rally, scent work, or tracking. Short, varied training sessions are usually more successful than long, repetitive drills. If an exercise feels pointless, a Kerry may simply stop cooperating. Turning training into a shared game makes the dog an eager partner rather than a reluctant participant.

In terms of exercise, the Kerry Blue is not a hyperactive breed, but it is certainly not a couch potato. Most adults need at least one to two hours of physical and mental activity each day. This does not have to be in one block. A typical day might include a brisk morning walk, a shorter evening walk, and several play or training sessions scattered throughout the day. Off lead running in safe, enclosed areas is very beneficial, as it allows the dog to stretch out and burn energy.

Activities many Kerries enjoy include:

- Fetch games, especially with balls or soft toys  
- Tug games with clear rules, such as “take it” and “drop”  
- Scent games in the garden, where treats or toys are hidden for the dog to find  
- Structured training sessions that mix obedience, tricks, and problem solving  

Because of their strong prey drive and sometimes selective hearing, many Kerry Blue Terriers should not be allowed off lead near roads or in open areas without reliable recall. A long training line can provide more freedom while you build trust and responsiveness.

Mental exercise is just as important as physical. Puzzle toys, food dispensing toys, and simple household challenges like “find it” searches can tire a Kerry mentally and reduce unwanted behavior. When their minds are engaged, Kerries are generally calmer and happier indoors.

Owners who are willing to train kindly but firmly, provide regular exercise, and share time and attention will find the Kerry Blue Terrier a very rewarding partner. Those who prefer a dog that simply lies quietly for most of the day may find this breed a little too much, as it truly comes alive when given opportunities to learn and move.


## Health

The Kerry Blue Terrier is generally a robust and long‑lived breed, but like all dogs it has some health issues that responsible owners and breeders should be aware of. With good care, many Kerries live into their early to mid teens, often remaining active well into old age.

Some health concerns that can appear in the breed include:

- Hip dysplasia, a developmental condition of the hip joint that can lead to arthritis and mobility problems later in life  
- Eye conditions such as entropion, cataracts, or other inherited eye diseases  
- Certain skin problems, which can be linked to allergies or infections  
- Benign skin growths and lumps in older dogs, which should always be checked by a vet  

Good breeders usually carry out recommended health testing before breeding their dogs. While the exact schemes vary by country, typical tests may include:

- Hip scoring or evaluation, to reduce the risk of hip dysplasia in offspring  
- Eye examinations by a veterinary ophthalmologist, repeated regularly to monitor for hereditary issues  
- In some regions, additional genetic tests that become available as research develops  

Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders about:

- What health tests have been carried out on the parents  
- The results of those tests  
- The typical lifespan and health history of relatives such as grandparents and siblings  

Routine veterinary care plays a big role in keeping a Kerry Blue Terrier healthy. This includes:

- Regular vaccinations and parasite control (fleas, ticks, worms)  
- Dental care, such as tooth brushing or dental chews, to prevent gum disease  
- Weight management to avoid obesity, which can worsen joint and heart problems  

The Kerry’s dense, soft coat can sometimes hide minor skin issues, so owners should make a habit of checking the skin during grooming sessions. Look for redness, hot spots, excessive scratching, or unusual odors, particularly in warm, damp areas like armpits, groin, and between the toes. Early treatment of skin problems is usually easier and more effective.

Like many medium breeds, Kerries can be prone to ear infections if the ears are not kept clean and dry. Regular inspection, gentle cleaning with a vet‑recommended solution, and careful drying after baths or swimming can help prevent trouble.

As Kerries age, they may show typical signs of senior dogs, such as stiffness after rest, reduced hearing, or changes in vision. Adjusting exercise levels, providing comfortable bedding, and offering ramps or steps to help them get into cars or onto favorite sofas can make a big difference to their quality of life. Most Kerries adapt well to the slower pace of old age as long as they are still included in family activities and given mental stimulation.

Overall, choosing a well bred puppy from health tested parents, keeping up with veterinary care, feeding a high quality diet, and maintaining a sensible weight are the best tools an owner has to support a long, healthy life for a Kerry Blue Terrier.


## History & Origins

The Kerry Blue Terrier comes from Ireland, where it has been valued for centuries as a versatile working dog. As the name suggests, the breed is closely associated with County Kerry in the south west of the country, a region known for its rugged landscape and strong farming traditions. While exact origins are difficult to prove, the Kerry Blue likely developed from local terrier types, possibly mixed with other breeds that arrived through trade and travel along the Irish coast.

Historically, the Kerry Blue Terrier was an all round farm dog. It was expected to tackle many tasks, including controlling rats and other vermin in barns, helping to hunt foxes and badgers, and even retrieving from water. There are stories of Kerries working as herding dogs for sheep and cattle, using a mix of determination and intelligence rather than sheer size. This background explains why the modern Kerry combines agility, courage, and a strong prey drive with a good deal of problem solving ability.

By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the Kerry Blue Terrier began to appear more often in dog shows and breeding programs. Irish patriots at the time saw the breed as a symbol of national identity, and it quickly gained popularity beyond its home region. Carefully planned breeding focused not only on working qualities but also on improving the distinctive blue coat and refining the terrier outline that we recognize today.

The blue color itself is a striking feature that helped set the Kerry apart from other terriers. While many puppies start life black, experienced breeders knew that the right lines would gradually “clear” to blue or slate tones with age. This process of color change remains a characteristic of the breed and can fascinate new owners as they watch their puppy’s coat transform.

As dog showing grew in popularity across Europe and later around the world, the Kerry Blue Terrier spread to Britain, the rest of Europe, and North America. Breed clubs were formed to protect and promote the Kerry, and official standards were drawn up that described the ideal appearance and temperament.

Today, the Kerry Blue Terrier is less commonly used as a multipurpose farm dog, but its working instincts remain. Modern Kerries are often seen in:

- Conformation shows, where their distinctive looks and movement are judged  
- Dog sports such as agility, obedience, and rally  
- Activities that use their natural scenting ability, including tracking and scent work  

Most importantly, the Kerry Blue Terrier has become a cherished companion and family dog. While numbers are not as high as some more fashionable breeds, a devoted group of breeders and owners around the world continue to safeguard its health, working traits, and spirited character. For those who appreciate a dog with deep roots, strong personality, and proud Irish heritage, the Kerry Blue Terrier remains a very special choice.


## Living with the Breed

Living with a Kerry Blue Terrier is both rewarding and demanding. This is a breed that wants to be part of your life, not just a dog you see briefly on walks. Before bringing a Kerry into your home, it is important to understand the level of commitment involved.

First, consider time. Kerries thrive on daily interaction. They need regular walks, playtime, and mental stimulation, as well as grooming sessions every week. A typical Kerry owner will spend:

- At least one to two hours each day on walks, training, and active engagement  
- Additional time each week brushing, combing, and trimming the coat or visiting a professional groomer  

If you are away from home for long stretches and cannot arrange dog walkers, day care, or family support, a Kerry Blue Terrier may become frustrated or bored. This can lead to barking, chewing, or digging. These behaviors are not signs of a “bad” dog, but rather a dog whose needs are not being fully met.

Financially, owning a Kerry Blue Terrier involves normal dog costs such as food, vaccinations, and vet checks, along with higher grooming expenses compared to many short coated breeds. Annual costs can vary widely between countries, but you should budget for:

- Quality dog food suitable for a medium, active breed  
- Routine veterinary care, vaccinations, and parasite control  
- Pet insurance or a savings plan for unexpected health issues  
- Regular professional grooming if you do not trim the coat yourself  

Useful equipment for a Kerry household includes:

- A sturdy, comfortable collar and well fitting harness  
- A strong lead of suitable length, and possibly a long training line for recall work  
- A crate or safe resting area where the dog can relax undisturbed  
- Several chew toys and interactive toys to keep the mind occupied  
- Grooming tools such as a pin brush, slicker brush, metal comb, nail clippers, and ear cleaning solution  

Kerries generally adapt well to different living environments as long as their exercise needs are met. They can live happily in a house with a garden or in an apartment with good access to outdoor spaces. A secure, fenced garden is extremely helpful, as it allows free play and safe exploration. Fencing must be solid and high enough, since a determined Kerry can be quite inventive about finding escapes.

Inside the home, Kerries like to be where the family is. Many enjoy curling up on the sofa or lying at their owner’s feet. They are not typically outdoor kennel dogs and do not do well if isolated in the yard for long periods. Early training about household rules is important, whether that means teaching the dog which furniture is allowed or where its bed is located.

When considering other pets, it is wise to plan carefully. Some Kerries live peacefully with a resident dog or cat, especially if introduced correctly and supervised. Others prefer to be the only dog. Honest discussion with breeders, who know their lines and individual puppies, can help match the right personality to your household.

For families with children, teaching both the dog and the children appropriate behavior is crucial. Kerries enjoy lively play but should be able to retreat to a quiet safe space when they need a break. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting, and rough games like pulling the beard or climbing on the dog should be avoided.

If you enjoy training, outdoor activities, and spending real time with your dog, living with a Kerry Blue Terrier can bring enormous joy. You will have a loyal, entertaining companion that makes you laugh, keeps you moving, and shares your daily life with enthusiasm. If you prefer a low maintenance, very easygoing dog, another breed might suit you better. For the right owner, however, the Kerry’s bold spirit and affectionate heart make it a truly unforgettable partner.

Kerry Blue Terrier

The United Kingdom Kerry Blue Terrier Association

The Kennel Club (UK) - Kerry Blue Terrier

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Kerry Blue Terrier

Dansk Terrier Klub (Denmark)

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Medium, athletic Irish terrier with a proud outline and curly blue coat that matures from black. Lively, intelligent, and strongly bonded to family, it needs daily mental and physical exercise. Low‑shedding but high‑grooming, with bold, watchful, sometimes dog‑assertive temperament.

Blueshamrock

## Quick Facts

The Spanish Water Dog (Perro de Agua Espanol) is a medium-sized Spanish working dog with a strong capacity for learning, a watchful nature and a need for both physical and mental activity. It is best suited to an engaged owner who wants to train regularly, can devote time to careful early socialisation and is prepared to learn the breed’s unusual coat care.

- **Origin:** Spain, with the largest historic population in Andalusia.
- **Purpose:** Water dog, hunting dog and herding dog; in Sweden, it is primarily an active companion and dog-sport partner.
- **Size:** Males 44–50 cm and 18–22 kg; females 40–46 cm and 14–18 kg.
- **Character:** Faithful, hard-working, watchful, quick to learn and adaptable according to the breed standard, although sociability and fearfulness vary considerably between individuals.
- **Coat:** Always curly and woolly; it is not brushed, but managed through an even clip and careful separation of curls or cords.
- **Everyday demands:** Expect a loud, sharp bark, a strong need for tasks and a dog that must learn how to be active and how to settle.

The curly appearance can suggest an easy family companion, but the working background matters more than the hairstyle. A Spanish Water Dog given only routine walks may start inventing jobs, such as watching the window or reacting to sounds.

## Appearance & Coat

The Spanish Water Dog is rustic, athletic and slightly longer than it is tall. Males and females have different standard measurements: males should stand 44–50 cm and weigh 18–22 kg, while females should stand 40–46 cm and weigh 14–18 kg. A deviation of up to two centimetres either way may be tolerated if the dog remains well proportioned.

The coat must always be curly and woolly in texture. A short coat forms curls, while a long coat may form cords. The coat may be clipped, but the whole body should then be clipped evenly rather than styled into a decorative trim. Coat quality and the amount of undercoat vary between dogs, so two Spanish Water Dogs may need quite different care.

This coat should not be brushed or combed like a conventional long coat. Curls and cords are gently separated with the fingers. If solid matting has formed close to the skin, the coat should be clipped because it pulls and can be painful. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, paws, the area beneath a collar or harness, and the hanging ears. Bathe the dog when it is dirty and clip when length or matting makes it necessary. One fixed timetable will not suit every coat.

Accepted colours are solid white, black or chestnut, and bicolour white and black or white and chestnut. Tricolour, black and tan, and brown and tan are not accepted under the standard.

The tail may be full length or naturally short in several different lengths. In Sweden, the breed’s tail is registered as absent, bobtail, short, full length or docked. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden, even though the international standard still describes it. A short tail on a Swedish-born puppy should therefore be natural, not altered for appearance.

The breed normally releases very little loose hair, but that does not make it allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin particles and saliva as well as elsewhere, and people react differently. Anyone with an allergy should therefore meet the individual dog several times rather than choose the breed solely because of its coat.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Spanish Water Dog as faithful, obedient, cheerful, hard-working, watchful, well balanced and exceptionally quick to learn. This is a useful picture of the breeding ideal, but not a promise that every dog will be easy, fearless or sociable with everyone.

The breed is often reserved or only moderately interested in unfamiliar people. Reserve is not the same as fear: a confident dog can choose not to greet and still accept handling when necessary. Persistent flight, intense distress, slow recovery or threatening responses should not be dismissed as typical breed behaviour.

The Swedish breeding strategy describes wide variation in temperament and has an explicit aim of reducing fearfulness. Swedish BPH data also show variation in greeting, play, curiosity and responses to surprises. In a Finnish study of 5,932 dogs, the Spanish Water Dog was among the breeds showing the most fear of strangers, while less socialisation between seven and sixteen weeks was associated with greater risk. This is a group result, not a verdict on every dog, but it underlines the value of calm, early exposure to the world.

Since 2024, Sweden has had a mental index for the breed covering sociability, playfulness, environmental confidence and threat-related behaviour. It is a breeding tool and does not certify an individual dog. Consider the parents’ BPH results and index alongside meeting the dogs yourself: how do they recover after a surprise, accept handling and behave in everyday settings?

Watchfulness is often expressed through a high, fairly sharp bark. Train from an early age so that the dog can notice a sound and then let it go. Trying to remove all watchfulness is unrealistic, but the dog should be able to settle and respond to its handler.

## Training & Exercise

The Spanish Water Dog needs to use both body and brain every day, but a fixed number of hours says less than the content and the dog’s recovery. A workable week includes varied movement, scent work, problem-solving, cooperation and deliberate practice at resting.

The breed learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training in small steps suits its learning ability and reduces conflict with a sensitive or watchful dog. Prioritise loose-lead skills, recall, releasing objects, calm behaviour at doors and windows, handling of paws and ears, and a clear cue to settle in its own place.

Socialisation does not mean exposing a puppy to as much as possible in a short time. Instead, let it encounter people, sounds, surfaces, traffic, water and other dogs at a distance where it can still think, take a reward and recover. Do not force greetings. One good experience is more valuable than many overwhelming encounters.

Scent work, tracking people or game, specialist search, nose work, obedience, rally and agility are examples of activities that can suit the breed. Water work may be an excellent fit, but the breed’s name does not guarantee that every dog wants to swim. Introduce water gradually and let the dog’s confidence set the pace.

An adult needs substantial walks and tasks that demand concentration. Judge the level by body condition, fitness, sleep, ability to settle and how the dog feels the next day. A highly aroused dog does not always need more speed; it may need scent work or trained calmness. A puppy should have short explorations, free play, simple exercises and plenty of rest. Increase longer distances, jumping and heavier work gradually.

## Health

The clearest binding Swedish breed rule concerns the hips: both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. The breed club goes further and recommends that the average hip index of Swedish-born parents should exceed 100 at the time of mating.

The club also recommends BPH, a current eye examination, and DNA information for prcd-PRA and neuroaxonal dystrophy, or NAD. These recommendations should not be confused with the formal hip requirement. Ask the breeder to show the results, dates and parental combination rather than merely saying that the dogs are “health tested”.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited retinal disease that can cause blindness. The DNA test identifies the prcd variant only; it does not exclude other eye diseases and therefore does not replace a clinical eye examination. The Swedish Kennel Club can centrally record prcd-PRA results for the breed, but that recording is not in itself a separate breed-specific requirement for litter registration. A carrier can be mated to a clear dog without affected puppies being expected, whereas two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be bred from.

NAD is a serious neurological disease that, in documented cases, began during the dog’s first year and affected gait, coordination and behaviour. Research in the breed has identified a TECPR2 variant and evidence of recessive inheritance. The breed club recommends clear dogs, or carriers only when paired with a clear dog. NAD results are not recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club, so ask to see the laboratory certificate and check both parents.

The Swedish breeding strategy draws in part on a health survey with 871 complete owner responses. Such a survey provides an overview but is not the same as veterinary-diagnosed prevalence. Ask instead about documented results and illness in parents, siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a long generic list of diagnoses.

A stated lifespan range cannot predict the life of an individual dog. Sound breeding, suitable body condition, free movement, pain-free skin and prompt veterinary attention when signs appear are more useful when choosing and caring for a Spanish Water Dog.

## History & Origins

The Spanish Water Dog has been present on the Iberian Peninsula for a long time. The FCI standard describes a shared origin with the older French water-dog type, the Barbet, and the large Andalusian population whose dogs were known as “Turkish dogs”. The exact early history remains disputed, however, and the Swedish breeding strategy also records several theories.

Work differed between regions. The standard describes herding, hunting and helping fishermen, particularly in areas where the woolly coat offered protection in both wet and dry conditions. There is not enough support, however, for every detailed story about retrieving nets, carrying messages between boats or one specific route by which the dogs reached Spain.

The modern breed took shape when enthusiasts began selecting dogs and drawing up a standard from 1975. The three traditional types are known as North, Sierra and Marismeño, but today’s population is mixed and forms one breed. The FCI granted provisional recognition in 1989 and definitive recognition in 1999. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1997; accounts differ on exactly how many there were.

## Living with the Breed

The Spanish Water Dog can become a close and entertaining family companion, but it needs more than an opportunity to run off energy. Daily life must include training, recovery, coat and ear checks, and thoughtful management of watchfulness and new environments.

With children, adult supervision and an undisturbed resting place are basic rules. A lively dog can knock over or attempt to control a running child without aggressive intent, and children should not pull the curls or disturb the dog while it eats or rests. Assess the confidence and recovery of the parents rather than assuming the breed name guarantees family suitability.

The breed can live with other dogs and cats, but the relationship depends on the individual, experience and introduction. Keep meetings calm, prevent chasing and give a cat safe escape routes. Small animals need separate, secure spaces; the breed’s herding, hunting and guarding background makes it unwise to promise that every Spanish Water Dog will be reliable with every animal.

Flat living can work if the dog receives suitable activity and can settle, but its loud bark and possible sensitivity to people, sounds and movement make a poorly soundproofed or very busy home more demanding. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, tasks or socialisation.

Being left alone should be introduced in very small steps after the puppy feels secure at home. If the dog follows its owner everywhere and never practises resting behind a gate or in another room, longer absences can become unnecessarily difficult. Arrange other care if the working day regularly means many hours away.

The breed suits someone who wants an active life with a clever, quick and watchful training partner and is prepared to monitor coat and health carefully. It is less suitable if you want an automatically sociable dog, a very quiet home, minimal training or a curly coat that can be brushed in the usual way.

Spanish Water Dog (Perro de Agua Espanol)

Verein für Deutsche Wachtelhunde e.V. (Germany)

The Spanish Water Dog is a medium, curly‑coated working breed from Spain, used for herding and water tasks. Loyal and often bonded to one person, it is energetic, intelligent, reserved with strangers, and a natural watchdog, needing substantial exercise, training, and specific coat care.

Aquanders

## Quick Facts

The Airedale Terrier is a British all-rounder and the largest terrier breed. It belongs to group 3 and is now kept mainly as a companion, but its independence and its hunting and guarding instincts remain. Its owner needs to enjoy training, exercising and caring for a large, lively terrier.

- Males should measure about 58–61 centimetres at the withers and females about 56–59 centimetres. The breed standard gives no weight.
- The breed ideal is an outgoing, confident, friendly, courageous and intelligent dog that remains alert without being aggressive.
- The coat should be hard, dense and wiry with a shorter, softer undercoat. It needs combing and hand stripping to retain its function.
- The Airedale Terrier needs both substantial exercise and mental work. A fixed number of minutes matters less than varied activity and the ability to settle afterwards.
- The Swedish Kennel Club has no breed-specific requirement for known hip dysplasia status before an Airedale litter can be registered. The breed club nevertheless recommends official hip screening and stricter breeding selection.

Choose the breed for its blend of terrier drive and enthusiasm for work, not merely for its appearance or the nickname ‘king of terriers’.

## Appearance & Coat

The Airedale Terrier should be muscular, active and powerfully built without appearing leggy or excessively long. Its back should be short, strong and level, and its chest deep but not broad. The overall impression should combine substance with speed.

The standard gives a height of about 58–61 centimetres for males and 56–59 centimetres for females, but no weight. Weights quoted in breed guides are therefore not measurements from the standard. Assess body condition, muscle, movement and stamina with the breeder or a vet instead.

The coat consists of a hard, wiry and stiff topcoat over a shorter, softer undercoat. It should lie close and must not be so long that the dog looks shaggy. The saddle, upper neck and upper surface of the tail should be black or grizzle. All other areas are tan. The ears are often darker, and a few white hairs between the front legs are accepted.

Hand stripping removes the mature, dead coat so that its wiry texture is preserved. The breed club suggests using a steel comb about once a week and stripping about three times a year as practical guides. The need varies with coat quality, daily life and whether the dog is shown. Learn the technique or find a knowledgeable groomer before the puppy comes home.

According to the breed club, clipping changes the coat’s texture and reduces its protection against wet, cold and dirt. It is therefore a different choice from correct stripping, not merely a quicker version of the same care. Check the beard, feet, skin, ears and nails at the same time, and seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, redness or sores.

A correctly stripped Airedale Terrier usually sheds little, but it is not free of allergens. Dog allergens are found mainly in saliva and skin and vary between individuals. Anyone with an allergy needs to assess the particular dog; low shedding offers no guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes an outgoing, confident, friendly, courageous and intelligent dog. The Airedale Terrier should be alert, not aggressive but fearless. This is a breeding ideal, not a promise that every individual will automatically be confident, sociable or easy to direct.

Its independence is rooted in its history as a working terrier. The dog can make its own decisions and react quickly to movement, sounds and scents. A good daily routine therefore rests on cooperation, clear habits and purposeful tasks.

The breed-specific breeding strategy, known as the RAS, gives an important warning about temperament data. By 2022, 141 Airedale Terriers had completed a BPH behavioural assessment and 260 had completed an MH working-dog temperament assessment, but the evidence was still considered too limited for firm conclusions. Some of the assessed dogs showed more pronounced fear responses. The MH data also included some passivity, reactions to gunshot and hesitation. These results cannot be turned into a reliable profile for a puppy.

Ask to see the parents’ complete BPH or MH results and how they behave away from the assessment. Observe recovery after surprises, responses to unfamiliar people and dogs, sound sensitivity, acceptance of handling and ability to settle. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known temperament status.

Children need active adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A large, lively adolescent can knock over a small child without intending harm. Compatibility with dogs, cats or small animals varies. Make introductions in a controlled way, keep small animals securely apart and judge the individual dog’s prey interest and behaviour rather than relying on promises about the breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Airedale Terrier needs substantial daily exercise, mental work and opportunities to use its nose. No single time limit suits every dog. An adult can have a fulfilling routine through a mix of walks in varied surroundings, tracking or scent work, structured play, obedience and an activity that dog and owner develop together.

The RAS mentions agility, working trials, obedience, nosework, rally obedience and blood tracking, among other activities. You do not need to compete, but repeating the same lead walk is rarely enough. Choose activities to suit the dog’s body, motivation and recovery.

Train recall, a stop cue, attention to the handler and giving up things the dog wants to keep from an early age. Begin in quiet surroundings, increase the difficulty gradually and use a long line when prey drive, traffic or other animals make a mistake dangerous. A well-trained Airedale Terrier can be highly cooperative, but training does not remove a terrier’s independence or interest in pursuing animals.

Short, clear and varied sessions help a young dog succeed. Reward attention and useful choices, and finish before either of you becomes frustrated. The RAS recommends puppy classes and everyday obedience training because the breed is large and lively when young.

Practise easily overlooked skills as well: standing steadily on a grooming table, allowing someone to comb the beard and legs, having the feet and ears checked, and resting while things happen nearby. This training makes regular coat care and veterinary visits safer.

Increase running, cycling and other strenuous exercise according to age, health, the ground and previous training. Stiffness, lameness, obvious pain or unusually slow recovery are reasons to reduce the load and, if necessary, contact a vet rather than pushing through the next session.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, or HD, is the health concern monitored most closely in Sweden. At the same time, too few Airedale Terriers have been screened for the RAS to draw reliable conclusions about the whole population. Grades B and C were most common among the dogs examined, while the club noted a fall in A and a rise in C. These results apply to the screened dogs, not every Airedale Terrier.

It is important to distinguish a rule from a recommendation. In the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026, the Airedale Terrier is not marked as a breed for which both parents must have an official HD result before puppies can be registered. The breed club nevertheless recommends a known result and the use of dogs graded A or B. If a dog graded C is used, the RAS says its mate should be graded A and the offspring should be followed up.

Ask for the original results and look at siblings, previous offspring and older relatives as well. Calling a line ‘healthy’ is no substitute for documentation. Insurance data in the RAS showed some overrepresentation of skeletal and skin conditions, but did not show how common each condition was or whether the problems had the same cause.

The eye evidence needs the same care. During 2017–2022, 53 eye examinations were recorded, and some dogs were examined more than once. One dog had progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, recorded in 2017. The breed club therefore has no general recommendation for PRA eye screening, but this does not make PRA impossible. Ask about findings in the family and why the breeder has or has not chosen an eye examination.

The RAS describes kidney problems and renal dysplasia as sporadic and does not generally recommend a protein-losing nephropathy, or PLN, test for the breed. Do not treat a long test panel as an end in itself. Start with documented cases in the family, test when a result can affect a breeding decision and ask the breeder to explain how any carrier result would be managed.

The RAS gives 8–12 years as the normal lifespan. This is a guide for the breed, not a forecast for an individual. Verified joint and temperament results, family history, skin and eye information and the breeder’s follow-up of earlier litters are more useful than a promise of a particular number of years.

## History & Origins

The Airedale Terrier was developed in the mid-1800s around the River Aire in West Yorkshire. Miners, textile workers and farmers needed a versatile dog for hunting and other tasks. Sources describe the Otterhound and the old English black-and-tan terrier as likely contributors, but the precise mix is not fully documented and should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Its size made the breed less suited to going underground than smaller terriers. It was used instead for rats, other small rodents and otters, and developed a wide working range. The breed standard records later use for tracking and by the Red Cross, police and military. In 1897, the breed was shown under its present name for the first time.

The Airedale Terrier reached Sweden around the turn of the century as a companion and working dog. An English-born Airedale shown in Stockholm in 1894 became the first Swedish show champion recorded in the Swedish Kennel Club’s stud book. One of Sweden’s first two police dogs was also an Airedale Terrier, imported in 1910. Today’s dog need not perform these historic jobs, but its independence, vigilance and desire to use body and nose remain relevant.

## Living with the Breed

The Airedale Terrier can live in a flat or a house if daily life provides exercise, training, rest and coat care. A garden does not replace shared activity. Consider how the dog responds to sounds, people in communal areas, visitors and regular quiet periods.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, beginning with very brief periods when the dog feels secure, has been exercised and is calm. Increase the duration only when it can rest. A camera may reveal pacing, barking, howling, destructive behaviour or refusal of food. There is no breed-specific number of hours that makes a long absence suitable.

Before buying a puppy, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- What are the official HD results of both parents, their siblings and previous offspring?
- Have the parents completed BPH or MH, including the optional gunshot element where applicable, and what do the full results show?
- How do the parents respond to unfamiliar people, dogs, sounds, handling and rest in daily life?
- Which skin, eye, kidney or movement problems occur in the family, and which examinations do those findings justify?
- How have the litter’s inbreeding level and genetic breadth been assessed?
- How are the parents’ coats maintained, and who can teach you to hand strip or groom the dog regularly?
- How does the breeder match the puppy’s activity, prey interest and temperament to your home?

The deciding question is whether you want a large terrier that learns quickly, thinks independently, needs work and requires regular stripping. If that sounds rewarding, the Airedale Terrier can be a versatile partner.

Airedale Terrier

Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Airedale Terrier Club of the United Kingdom

The Airedale Terrier is the largest terrier, an athletic, wiry‑coated dog that sheds little but needs regular grooming. Bright, independent and energetic, it needs varied training and 1.5–2 hours of daily exercise. Loyal, playful and watchful, it makes a versatile family and working companion.

Halvor Sigfridstad

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Gunn Irene Lindstrøm

De Aqua Lanetto

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Källornas

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Lucie Anderssen

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Cockerpojkarnas

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Bellabus

Gro Anita Nesse

## Quick Facts

- The Eurasier is a medium-sized German Spitz breed, developed as a companion dog and happiest when living closely with its family.
- Under the breed standard, males should measure 52–60 cm and weigh 22–30 kg. The corresponding ranges for females are 48–56 cm and 18–26 kg.
- The standard describes a calm, self-assured and attentive dog with a strong bond to its family, without being pushy with strangers.
- Reserve should not be confused with fear. Swedish BPH behaviour assessments show clear variation in social confidence within the breed.
- Eurasiers generally enjoy joining in with family activities without having the workload of a working breed. Exercise and training must still be tailored to the individual each day.
- The double coat generally needs brushing about once a week, and more often when the undercoat is being shed.
- In Swedish breeding, both parents must have an official hip score before mating. The breed club’s advice about results and other tests goes beyond the registration requirement itself.
- The breed suits someone who wants a close everyday companion and accepts an independent streak. It is less well suited to a life with little company or an expectation that the dog should greet everyone.

## Appearance & Coat

The Eurasier is a balanced, medium-sized Spitz. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, its ears are erect, and its bushy tail is carried over the back or curved to one side. Bone should be moderate, and the thick coat must not obscure the dog’s proportions. The overall impression should be functional and well balanced rather than heavy or excessively fluffy.

The standard gives ranges of 52–60 cm and 22–30 kg for males and 48–56 cm and 18–26 kg for females. These figures are a guide to the breed, not a promise of an individual puppy’s adult size. If size matters in practical terms, look at the parents and close relatives as well.

The coat consists of a dense, soft undercoat and medium-length, straight guard hairs that lie fairly loosely. Hair is shorter on the face, ears and fronts of the legs, and longer on the tail and backs of the legs. All colours and colour combinations are permitted under the current international standard except pure white and piebald.

In everyday life, a thorough brush about once a week is often enough. More frequent brushing is needed when the undercoat comes out once or twice a year, and the amount of loose hair can then be considerable. Use the opportunity to check the skin, nails, ears and teeth. Bathe the dog when it is dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The Eurasier should be calm, self-assured and even-tempered, with a strong attachment to its family and limited interest in making contact with strangers. This can make the breed appealing to people who want a dog that enjoys being close to its own family without automatically greeting everyone. It does not mean that every Eurasier will be quiet, confident or easy in every situation.

Swedish BPH results offer a more nuanced picture than the ideal set out in the standard. As a group, the dogs showed little interest in strangers, but their confidence during social encounters varied considerably. A dog that calmly chooses not to greet is reserved. A dog that flees, freezes or becomes highly distressed needs more distance and support. Reserve must not be used to excuse fear or threatening behaviour.

A puppy needs early, positive experiences of different people, environments, surfaces and everyday situations. The aim is not to have strangers pet the puppy, but for the dog to remain calm and secure even when it does not wish to interact. Let it observe from a distance at which it can still eat, explore and recover. Forced greetings can increase insecurity.

Eurasiers can live happily with children, dogs or other animals, but the breed name is no guarantee. A dog and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to handling, sudden movement and unfamiliar dogs. Where cats or small pets share the home, use calm introductions, secure separation and supervision while you learn about that individual dog’s chase behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

Eurasiers often learn quickly, but they were not developed for the sustained task work expected of a working breed. Clear routines, rewards the dog values and short sessions with an understandable goal tend to work best. Reward the behaviour you want to see again, making the task clear without damaging trust. Harsh corrections, intimidation and physical pressure have no place in training.

Everyday skills matter more than accumulating advanced exercises. Teach the dog to walk with you on a lead, wait, return when called, accept handling and settle when nothing is happening. Vary rewards between food, play, movement and access to things the dog wants to investigate. If the dog loses interest, reducing the difficulty or changing the task is often more useful than repeating the same cue.

The breed is generally happy to join walks and family outings without needing the workload of a dedicated working breed. A fixed number of exercise minutes says little about what a particular dog needs. A good day includes movement, opportunities to sniff, chances to solve problems and enough rest. Adjust this to age, health, weather and the dog’s recovery. Scent work, tracking, rally obedience, hoopers and other shared activities may suit the breed, but the individual dog’s motivation should guide your choice.

Recall still needs training, even if the dog likes to remain near its family. Neither a close family bond nor a reputation for low prey drive makes a dog safe off lead. Use a lead or long line wherever wildlife, traffic, other animals or local rules make off-lead exercise unsuitable.

## Health

The Eurasier is described as relatively healthy, but prospective owners should still check several health risks and breeding considerations. Begin by distinguishing SKK registration requirements from the breed club’s more extensive breeding recommendations.

For a Swedish litter to be registered, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The requirement is a known result, not necessarily grade A or B. The Swedish Eurasier Club recommends breeding dogs with HD A or B, ED 0 and patella 0. Ask to see the official results and, where possible, check siblings and previous offspring as well. Parental results reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

The breed club also recommends carefully planned pairings for Dandy-Walker-like malformation, DWLM. The variant is inherited recessively and can be identified with a DNA test. A clear dog can be mated to another clear dog or to a carrier, whereas two carriers must not be paired. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and need not be removed from breeding when its mate has tested clear. This distinction matters both for preventing affected puppies and for preserving genetic diversity.

The breed club also monitors reported cases of hypothyroidism, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, EPI/EPA, and gastric torsion. The club does not describe these as major problems in the breed, but it continues to collect information about them. Persistent tiredness with coat changes, or recurring diarrhoea with weight loss, therefore deserve attention. Suspected gastric torsion requires emergency veterinary care.

Ask the breeder about official joint and patella results, DWLM status and known diagnoses among the parents, siblings and previous offspring. A general assurance that the dogs in the family are ‘healthy’ is less informative than documented results and an open account of relatives’ health.

## History & Origins

The Eurasier is a young breed with a well-documented German origin. Julius Wipfel began the breeding programme in 1960 by combining the Chow Chow and the Wolfspitz, also known as the Keeshond. The early dogs were called Wolf-Chows. The Samoyed was introduced later, and the breed was renamed Eurasier to reflect its European and Asian origins.

The FCI recognised the Eurasier in 1973, and the first Eurasier arrived in Sweden in 1994. The breed has always been intended as a companion dog, and the international standard does not require a working trial. This helps explain why close family contact and a stable everyday temperament are central to the breed. Simplistic claims that each foundation breed supplied one particular trait are best avoided, however; today’s dogs vary both mentally and physically.

## Living with the Breed

The Eurasier is best suited to a home where the dog takes part in everyday life. It can live in a flat or a house, because the size of the home matters less than the routine around exercise, rest, noise and company. A garden does not replace walks or family contact, and the breed’s background makes it unsuitable for living mainly alone in an outdoor kennel.

Time alone must be taught gradually once a puppy feels secure in its new home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains settled before, during and after you leave. Dogs learn this at different rates. Plan daily life around the individual dog you have, not a supposed breed limit measured in hours.

For families with children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the label ‘family dog’. Where cats or small pets are present, secure boundaries and controlled introductions matter more than assumptions about prey drive. Anyone who wants to do a great deal of training should meet the parents and ask what motivates them, how they cope with handling and how they recover in unfamiliar environments.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the registration certificate, sales contract, a current veterinary inspection certificate and documented health information for the parents. Meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look in particular at whether they can remain calmly neutral towards strangers without fleeing, freezing or being pressed into contact. A carefully planned Eurasier litter should make sense both on paper and in the life you can offer.

Eurasier

German Kennel Club (VDH)

Eurasier Klub e.V. Sitz Weinheim (EKW)

The Eurasier Society UK

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

The Eurasier is a medium, plush-coated Spitz bred as a calm family companion. Sensitive and deeply bonded to its people, it prefers a peaceful home, is reserved but non-aggressive with strangers, needs moderate daily walks, mental games, gentle training, and regular coat care.

Arachuns

Hoplas Gold

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

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