## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Startade med uppfödning av Border Collie 1991. Nu mera är det av rasen Labrador Retriever.

Sheep Trix

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Swedish Kennel Club

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Brinkstigen

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Karin Fjellström

Yellow Man's

## Quick Facts

The Shiba Inu is a small Japanese spitz and the smallest of the six native Japanese dog breeds preserved by NIPPO. It was developed to hunt birds and small game, but today it is kept primarily as a companion dog.

- **Size:** the ideal height is 39.5 cm for males and 36.5 cm for females, with a tolerance of 1.5 cm either way.
- **Weight:** as a rough guide, males weigh around 9–11 kg and females around 7–9 kg.
- **Coat:** a short double coat with straight, harsh outer hairs and a soft, dense undercoat.
- **Colours:** red, black and tan, and sesame varieties. All recognised colours must have pale markings known as urajiro.
- **Temperament:** alert, independent and loyal, and sometimes wary of strangers.
- **Activity:** needs varied exercise, scent work and short training sessions that feel worthwhile.
- **Lifespan:** many Shiba Inus live to an advanced age. A large UK study found a median of 14.6 years, although an individual dog's lifespan is influenced by factors including genetics, health and care.

The Shiba Inu is best suited to someone who appreciates a dog that takes its own initiative and can devote time to socialisation, a reliable recall and calm handling practice. Independent does not mean able to look after itself.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shiba Inu is compact, muscular and slightly longer than it is tall, with upright triangular ears and a strong tail carried curled or sickle-shaped over the back. Its movement should be light and brisk. There is a clear size difference between the sexes, but the breed should never appear heavy or exaggerated.

Urajiro is not a separate colour. It refers to the whitish areas required on the sides of the muzzle, the cheeks, beneath the jaw and neck, on the chest and belly, and on the undersides of the legs and tail. Understanding the term is useful when comparing a red, black-and-tan or sesame Shiba Inu.

The double coat provides protection through its combination of harsh outer hairs and a dense undercoat. Brushing about once a week is normally enough, but loose undercoat needs to be removed more often during heavy shedding. The timing and amount of shedding vary with the individual, season and environment, so do not expect an exact schedule. Bathe the dog when it is actually dirty and introduce brushing, paw checks and nail trimming early. The coat should not be routinely clipped or shaved to shape it.

“Mame Shiba”, “Mini Shiba” and similar names do not denote a separate NIPPO breed. Anyone offered an unusually small dog should check its registration and the size and health of its parents rather than relying on a marketing label.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shiba Inu is usually attentive, quick-witted and loyal to its family, yet independent enough to question a task that offers it no value. That is more accurate than simply calling the breed stubborn. It learns quickly, but cooperation must be built through trust, clarity and patience.

Some Shiba Inus are reserved with unfamiliar people and sensitive to intrusive body language. Early, positive experiences of different people, environments and surfaces help a puppy, but the goal is confidence rather than a dog that must greet everyone. Give it room to move away and never force contact.

The breed name cannot reliably predict how an individual will behave with children, dogs or cats. Upbringing, past experience and personality all matter. Ask to meet the puppy's mother, find out how the parents and previous litters cope with new situations, and do not choose a puppy on colour or sex alone. Claims that every Shiba Inu has problems with dogs of the same sex are too sweeping.

## Training & Exercise

The Shiba Inu needs daily physical activity and mental engagement, but a fixed number of minutes says less than the way that time is used. Vary the pace and setting of walks, allow time to sniff, and add activities such as mantrailing, blood tracking, scent work, agility or brief skills sessions. Match the workload to the dog's age, fitness and health, and make sure it can also settle and rest.

Reward-based training is particularly effective for a dog that likes to make its own decisions. Reward voluntary attention, staying with you and good choices before increasing the distractions. Several short, clear sessions achieve more than repetitive drilling. Harsh corrections can increase stress and damage trust without teaching the dog what you want it to do.

The breed's hunting background may show as an interest in scent and movement, but the strength of that interest varies between individuals. Build recall training gradually, and use a lead or long line wherever the dog cannot be recalled safely. A recall that works in the garden is no proof that it will hold when wildlife appears. Check gates, harnesses and fencing too; physical safety should never depend on a single cue.

Practise handling before it is needed. Start with very brief touches to the paws, ears and mouth, reward calm behaviour and give the dog breaks. Gradually extend the time and introduce the brush, nail clippers and examination positions. This makes routine care and veterinary visits easier, especially for a dog that dislikes restraint.

## Health

Swedish breeding guidance describes the Shiba Inu as a breed with generally good health, but that does not mean every dog is free from problems. When choosing a puppy, documented results and frank questions for the breeder are more useful than a general claim that the breed is healthy.

Under both long-standing policy and the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, both parents of a Shiba Inu litter must have an officially recorded hip dysplasia result before mating. The rule requires their hips to have been assessed; it does not restrict breeding to grades A or B alone. The general rules do, however, exclude dogs graded E and allow a dog graded D only with a partner graded A or B. Check the parents' results, and ideally those of close relatives, through the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata service and ask the breeder to explain how the pairing was assessed.

Skin and itching are also worth discussing. In the breed club's 2018 health survey, about 15 per cent of respondents reported recurrent or long-lasting skin problems or itching, and around 10 per cent of all respondents said a vet had identified allergy. A voluntary member survey shows what the club needs to monitor; it does not establish the exact prevalence in the whole breed. Ask specifically about persistent itching, paw licking and recurrent ear or skin trouble in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

The breed-specific breeding strategy also reports elbow and kneecap examinations, but too few dogs were examined to draw firm conclusions about the whole breed. Eye, elbow and patellar examinations are therefore not general registration requirements for the Shiba Inu in Sweden. A breeder may still have carried out further tests because of the particular line; if so, ask to see the results and understand why those tests were chosen.

The 2024 UK longevity study included 423 Shiba Inus and found a median lifespan of 14.6 years. This is a population measure from the UK, not a guarantee for an individual dog elsewhere, but it supports the breed's reputation for often living well into old age.

## History & Origins

The Shiba Inu comes from Japan and was used in mountainous areas to hunt birds and small animals. Before the modern breed was established, regional lines included the San'in, Shinshu and Mino. The old word *shiba* has been associated with something small. Explanations linking the name to a particular coat colour or vegetation are interpretations rather than settled etymology.

As foreign gundogs were imported and crossed with native dogs, pure Shiba Inus became rare in their regions of origin. NIPPO was founded in 1928 to preserve the Japanese dogs, began compiling detailed pedigrees in 1932 and established a standard in 1934. In 1936, the Shiba Inu was designated a national natural monument in Japan.

The Second World War severely reduced the population, and preservation work gathered pace again after the war. NIPPO identifies Ishi Go as central to the development of the modern breed and Naka Go as a foundation dog of the post-war restoration. Today's Shiba Inu is therefore the product of organised preservation work, not simply an unchanged relic from ancient times.

## Living with the Breed

A Shiba Inu can live in a flat if it gets sufficient activity outdoors, can settle indoors and is not left to react to every noise in the communal hallway. The size of the home matters less than daily routines, the surrounding area and opportunities for safe exercise. A quiet resting place of its own is valuable in any home.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with any dog: a young child and a dog should always have an adult present. Teach the child to leave the dog alone when it is eating, sleeping or moving away. Never allow a child to hug or climb on the dog, or take things from it. If the household has a cat or small pets, make introductions gradually and use physical separation; assess the individual dog's response rather than relying on a breed label.

Independence is not the same as tolerance of being left alone. Start alone-time training only once the puppy feels secure in its new home, leave for a very short time and return before it becomes worried. Increase the time gradually and take a step back if the dog starts pacing, barking, scratching or stops resting as usual. A young puppy should not be left alone, and even a trained adult needs company and opportunities to relieve itself every day.

The piercing sound often called the “Shiba scream” online is not a diagnosis and should not be dismissed as comedy. Consider the situation and the rest of the dog's body language. A sudden cry when the dog is touched or moves, particularly alongside lameness, reluctance to move, a change in appetite or unusual behaviour, warrants contacting a vet. For routine handling, preventive, cooperative practice is better than restraining the dog until it gives up.

The right home for a Shiba Inu is therefore not necessarily the one with the longest history of dog ownership, but one that respects the individual dog's boundaries while working methodically on safety, cooperation and everyday handling.

Shiba Inu

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Ancient Japanese spitz-type hunting dog, small yet muscular with foxlike face, curled tail and plush double coat in red, black and tan or sesame with urajiro. Independent, catlike, loyal but reserved, strong-willed, high prey drive, needs early socialisation, firm positive training and regular exercise.

Urban Dawgs

## Quick Facts

The Portuguese Water Dog is a medium-sized, work-oriented dog for someone who wants to do more with their dog than take short walks. The breed comes from Portugal, belongs to FCI Group 8 and once worked alongside fishermen. Today it is primarily an active companion dog.

- **Size:** males stand 50–57 cm at the withers and weigh 19–25 kg; females stand 43–52 cm and weigh 16–22 kg.
- **Coat:** a profuse coat with no undercoat, either long and wavy or shorter and curly.
- **Colour:** black, various shades of brown or solid white. Black and brown dogs may have white markings on certain parts of the body.
- **Temperament:** often sociable, playful, curious and quick to learn, although individuals differ noticeably.
- **Activity:** needs a thoughtful mix of walks, scent work, training, play and rest.
- **Grooming:** needs regular, thorough combing and clipping, especially while the coat is changing.
- **Life expectancy:** the median was 13.0 years in a large 2024 UK study, but the breed-specific sample was limited.

The breed is best suited to a home where the dog can take part in family life and use both body and mind. It is a poorer choice for someone who wants an easy-care coat or a dog content with the same gentle walk every day.

## Appearance & Coat

The Portuguese Water Dog is compact, strong and almost square without being heavy. There is pronounced webbing between the toes, and the breed standard also describes the tail as an aid when swimming and diving.

There are two accepted coat types. The wavy coat is longer, slightly glossy and woolly, while the curly coat is shorter and denser, forming compact curls. Neither has an undercoat. This does not make the coat maintenance-free, nor does it mean that the dog never loses hair. Loose hairs can remain in the coat and form mats instead of falling on the floor.

Grooming has to suit the coat type, length and stage of life. Work through the entire coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and beneath a harness or collar. An adult coat can often be combed through about once a week, but a longer coat or one that is changing may need more frequent attention. The dog also needs clipping, either at home or by a professional groomer.

In the traditional clip, the hair is shortened on the muzzle, hindquarters and most of the tail, leaving a plume at the tip. The breed standard describes its appearance, but does not substantiate stories that the clip protected particular organs or joints. Those explanations are not established historical facts.

Gradually teach a puppy to accept a comb, scissors or clippers, as well as having its paws, ears and mouth handled. Short sessions paired with rewards make it easier to groom an adult dog without a struggle.

The Portuguese Water Dog is not allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in saliva and material shed from the skin, and the amount varies between individuals, even within a single litter. A coat without an undercoat is therefore no guarantee. Anyone with a dog allergy should seek medical advice about their own situation rather than buy a puppy because of the breed's reputation.

## Temperament & Personality

The Portuguese Water Dog is often people-oriented, playful and enterprising, and usually enjoys working with a person when the task feels worthwhile. The breed standard describes an intelligent, strong-willed dog with considerable stamina. In daily life, that combination can produce a responsive training partner, but also a dog that quickly learns unwanted habits when boundaries are unclear.

The Swedish Kennel Club's analysis of just over 200 Portuguese Water Dogs assessed through BPH found a relatively sociable, playful, fairly confident and curious group. Greetings, curiosity and interest in a new toy nevertheless varied clearly. Only a small proportion of the Swedish population at the time had taken part. The results therefore show tendencies in the group studied, not what every puppy will become.

Meet at least the dam and ask how close relatives respond to unfamiliar people, noises, handling and the need to settle after excitement. A completed BPH or MH can provide useful information, but it should be considered alongside everyday behaviour and behaviour seen in the wider family.

The breed can live happily with children and other animals, but the outcome depends on the individual, previous experience and introductions. A dog and a young child always need adult supervision, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Do not let a lively adolescent get into the habit of chasing the cat or crowding an older dog. Calm meetings, space and active supervision are more useful than a blanket promise that the breed “gets on with everyone”.

## Training & Exercise

The Portuguese Water Dog needs daily activity, but there is no single time quota that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and personality determine the right level. Combine walks in different environments and safe opportunities to move freely with scent work, co-operative exercises and quiet rest.

The breed often takes readily to tasks that involve carrying, retrieving, searching and problem-solving. Retrieving, search work, tracking, obedience, agility and water work are options, not requirements. Choose activities that both dog and owner enjoy, and keep training sessions short and clear.

Reward-based training suits a quick and inventive dog. Reinforce what you want to see more often: attention, four paws on the floor, a calm passage through a doorway and the ability to wait. Teach the dog that activity has a beginning and an end as well. A dog that is only offered more excitement may become adept at getting worked up without learning how to settle.

The breed's history supports an interest in water, but not every individual enjoys swimming. Start in shallow water, allow the dog to choose whether to enter and use play or retrieving without force. Swimming is one activity option, not a test of whether the dog is a “real” Portuguese Water Dog. Always take the temperature, water conditions and the dog's ability into account.

Puppies and adolescent dogs primarily need varied movement, body awareness, experience of different environments and sufficient rest. Long, repetitive or high-impact sessions are not a shortcut to a fit adult. Increase difficulty and endurance gradually.

## Health

The Portuguese Water Dog is described as a relatively healthy breed, but a puppy buyer should check hips, eyes, relevant DNA results and family health. Ask for registration numbers and inspect official results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Under the 2026 rules for puppies registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have official hip status before mating. They must therefore have had their hips X-rayed, but the rules do not restrict this breed to grades A or B only. The parents also need an official eye examination no more than one year old, and a dog with PRA must not itself be bred from.

The breed club's published conditions for puppy referrals go further. They include hip grade A or B and require at least one parent to have a normal prcd-PRA DNA result. The test is a valuable breeding tool, but it is not listed as a compulsory DNA requirement for the breed in the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules.

prcd-PRA is an inherited retinal disease that gradually impairs sight. An eye examination can reveal the disease, while the DNA test distinguishes genetically clear, carrier and affected dogs. A carrier is not ill; what matters is combining the parents' results so that affected puppies are not born.

The breed club also describes JDCM, a recessively inherited heart disease affecting young dogs, and recommends testing to avoid affected puppies. The result is not required for registration under the Swedish Kennel Club's rules. Ask the breeder which tests have been carried out, what the results mean for this particular mating and why the mating was chosen.

Addison's disease and hypothyroidism have been reported in the breed, but older Swedish material could not give reliable frequencies. Ask about diagnosed disease and unusually early deaths among parents, siblings and previous offspring without assuming that every dog will be affected.

A UK study of more than half a million dogs estimated the breed's median life expectancy at 13.0 years. The Portuguese Water Dog sample included 179 individuals, of which 36 had died, and the uncertainty was considerable. Treat the figure as a guide, not a promise that an individual dog will reach a particular age.

## History & Origins

The Portuguese Water Dog comes from Portugal and historically worked along the country's coast. As fishing methods changed, the breed became concentrated in the Algarve, which the breed standard regards as its original home region.

The FCI breed standard records specific duties: the dog helped the fisherman retrieve escaped fish, dived after broken nets and loose lines, acted as a link between boat and shore, and guarded the boat and property. The work called for swimming ability, endurance, attentiveness and initiative.

That background helps to explain why many individuals enjoy retrieving, search tasks and close co-operation. It does not mean that every dog loves water or has the same drive to work. Breeding, upbringing and the dog's own experiences matter too.

Today the breed is primarily an active companion. Its recorded jobs explain its tendency to co-operate, carry, search and work in water without any need for uncertain tales about lifesaving at sea or the purpose of its traditional clip.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Portuguese Water Dog works best when there is time every day for company, grooming and varied activity. A large garden does not replace shared walks and training. A flat can work if the dog's needs are met and calm behaviour is taught when someone rings the bell or moves through the communal hallway. Some guarding instinct occurs, but how vocal a dog is varies between individuals.

Plan how to teach the dog to spend time alone from the beginning, without rushing it. Once the puppy feels secure at home, practise very short periods behind a gate or door. Increase the time only when the puppy can remain calm. The breed name cannot tell you how long a particular dog can cope alone without stress. If daily life involves long working days, arrange suitable care.

Make a realistic weekly plan before buying. It needs to allow for:

- walks and meaningful activity, including in poor weather,
- thorough coat care and regular clipping,
- brief everyday training and help with settling,
- gradual alone-time training and a back-up care arrangement,
- safe routines with children, visitors and other animals,
- the cost of insurance, veterinary care, equipment and, if required, a professional groomer.

The breeder should give clear answers about the parents' temperament, official hip and eye results, how prcd-PRA and JDCM have been managed, and which diseases occur in the family. A good match depends as much on the breeding line and individual dog as on breed. In the right home, the Portuguese Water Dog is an enthusiastic and versatile companion; in a home that cannot meet its needs, the same energy, inventiveness and coat quickly become a substantial responsibility.

Portuguese Water Dog

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium, Europe)

The Portuguese Water Dog is a sturdy, medium‑sized, low‑shedding water lover with a curly or wavy coat. Intelligent, people‑oriented and energetic, it needs regular grooming, daily training, and plenty of exercise and swimming, thriving as an active, closely involved family companion.

Diva Divers

# Silky terrier

## Quick Facts

- The Silky terrier is a small dog with a surprisingly bold, lively personality and often behaves like a much bigger terrier.
- Despite its elegant, flowing coat, this breed was developed as a true terrier with instincts for chasing small pests.
- It is typically affectionate with its people, alert around the home, and quick to notice new sounds or visitors.
- The coat is fine, silky, and low in harsh texture, but it still needs regular brushing to prevent tangles around the ears, legs, and underbody.
- A well-bred Silky terrier usually combines toy-dog portability with the curiosity, confidence, and spark that terrier lovers appreciate.

## Appearance & Coat

The Silky terrier is one of those breeds that catches the eye immediately. At first glance, many people notice the long, glossy coat and compact size, but a closer look reveals a dog that is far from fragile. This is a small terrier with a neat, balanced outline, moderate bone, and a body that is slightly longer than tall. It should look refined without seeming delicate.

Most Silkies are light enough to carry easily, yet sturdy enough to keep up with active owners. The expression is keen and intelligent, with small, erect ears that add to the breed’s alert appearance. The movement should be free and lively, reflecting the dog’s energetic nature.

The coat is one of the defining features. It is fine, straight, and silky to the touch, rather than woolly or harsh. Ideally, it falls along the body without excessive bulk. The classic color pattern is blue and tan, with shades that can range from silver-blue to slate-blue, paired with rich tan points on the face and legs. Puppies are often born darker and may change as they mature.

Although the Silky terrier looks glamorous, coat care is manageable if you stay consistent. This is not a coat you can ignore for weeks and then fix in one long grooming session.

Helpful coat care habits include:

- Brush several times a week to prevent mats, especially behind the ears and under the front legs
- Use a soft brush or comb that will not damage the fine hair
- Bathe when needed with a gentle dog shampoo, followed by careful drying
- Trim hair around the feet and sanitary areas to keep things tidy
- Check the eyes and beard area for food debris or tear staining

<x-quote text="A silky coat stays easier to manage when grooming becomes part of the weekly routine, not an occasional rescue mission." from="Get a Pet" />

For owners who want a smart but practical companion, a pet trim can make daily upkeep easier while still preserving the breed’s elegant look. Even when kept shorter, the Silky terrier should still appear polished, clean, and distinctly terrier-like.

## Temperament & Personality

The Silky terrier is bright, spirited, and full of character. This is not a sleepy lap dog that simply watches life from a cushion. It wants to be involved, investigate the house, patrol the garden, and keep track of what its people are doing. Many owners fall in love with the breed because it combines a toy-sized body with the heart of a proper terrier.

In daily life, this breed is often cheerful, alert, and strongly attached to its family. Silkies usually enjoy close contact with their people, but they also have an independent streak. They can be charming one moment and determined the next. That terrier confidence is part of their appeal, though it also means they are not always instantly obedient.

With children, the Silky terrier can do well in homes where interactions are respectful and supervised. Older children who understand how to handle a small dog gently are often the best match. Very young children may accidentally overwhelm or mishandle such a small breed, especially during excited play.

Around other pets, results vary. Some Silkies live happily with other dogs, especially when socialized early. Small animals such as rodents may trigger chasing instincts, and even household cats may need careful introductions if the dog has a strong prey drive.

Common personality traits include:

- Fast reactions and sharp awareness
- A tendency to bark when something changes in the environment
- Curiosity that can turn into mischief if bored
- Loyalty to family, sometimes with reserve toward strangers
- Confidence that may be larger than the dog’s actual size

<x-quote text="Our Silky learned every sound in the stairwell within a week, so we had to teach quiet cues early or she would announce every neighbour." from="Maja, Silky terrier owner" />

One challenge for new owners is that this breed can be underestimated. Because it is small and beautiful, people sometimes expect an easygoing ornamental dog. In reality, the Silky terrier needs structure, socialization, and mental engagement. Given that, it often becomes a funny, rewarding companion with plenty of personality packed into a very portable size.

## Training & Exercise

The Silky terrier needs more activity and engagement than many people expect from a small breed. While it does not require hours of hard exercise every day, it thrives when given regular walks, chances to explore, and short training sessions that keep its clever mind busy. Think of it as a compact dog with a terrier work ethic.

A healthy adult usually benefits from daily walks combined with play and training at home. Many Silkies love games that involve searching, chasing toys, or figuring out puzzles. They are quick learners, but they also notice inconsistency just as quickly. If a rule changes from day to day, this breed will take advantage of it.

Training works best when it is upbeat, clear, and reward-based. Harsh corrections can make some dogs resistant or noisy, while positive methods tend to bring out their enthusiasm. Keep sessions short and purposeful. Five focused minutes can be more productive than a long, repetitive lesson.

Good activities for a Silky terrier often include:

- Short daily walks with plenty of sniffing opportunities
- Recall practice in safe, enclosed spaces
- Trick training and obedience basics
- Puzzle feeders and scent games indoors
- Controlled play with compatible dogs

One important point is prey drive. A Silky may spot a bird or small animal and react in an instant, so reliable recall takes real practice. Off-lead freedom should only happen in secure areas unless training is truly solid.

<x-quote text="Small terriers often do best when exercise is paired with mental tasks. A tired body helps, but a busy brain is what really prevents nuisance barking and restless behaviour." from="Get a Pet" />

This breed often enjoys being given a job, even a simple one. Fetching toys, learning names of objects, or practicing little routines before meals can all help. For city owners, apartment life can work well if walks and mental stimulation are consistent. Without enough to do, a Silky terrier may create its own entertainment, and that usually means barking, digging, or stealing something interesting from around the house.

## Health

The Silky terrier is generally considered a fairly robust small breed, and many live long lives when well cared for. A typical lifespan is often around 12 to 15 years, with some individuals reaching beyond that. As with any pedigree dog, however, responsible breeding and preventive healthcare matter a great deal.

Patella luxation is one condition that owners should be aware of. This involves the kneecap slipping out of place, which can range from mild to more serious. Some dogs may show occasional skipping steps, while others can develop discomfort or long-term mobility problems. Eye issues can also appear in the breed, and regular eye checks are sensible, especially in breeding dogs.

Like many small breeds, the Silky terrier can also be prone to dental disease if oral care is neglected. Because small mouths tend to become crowded, plaque and tartar can build up quickly. Daily or near-daily tooth brushing is one of the most valuable health habits an owner can build.

Other areas worth discussing with a breeder or veterinarian include:

- Eye health screening
- Patella examination
- Monitoring for signs of joint discomfort
- Dental care planning from puppyhood
- Weight management, since excess weight strains small joints

A good breeder should be open about the health of their lines and happy to explain what checks have been carried out. If you are still comparing breeds, the [Dog Breed Advisor](https://getapet.com/en/dog-breed-advisor) can be a useful place to narrow down which type of dog suits your household and activity level.

Routine care should include vaccinations, parasite prevention, dental checks, and annual veterinary visits. Because the breed is lively and agile, owners should also watch for injuries caused by jumping from furniture or running on slippery floors.

<x-quote text="With toy and small terrier breeds, small preventive steps matter. Weight control, dental care, and early joint monitoring can have a big effect over a lifetime." from="Get a Pet" />

When choosing a puppy, it is wise to focus less on coat glamour and more on health, temperament, and breeder transparency. A beautiful dog is a joy, but a sound, well-raised one is what truly supports a long and happy life together.

## History & Origins

The Silky terrier was developed in Australia, where breeders combined small terrier types to create a lively companion with both elegance and working spirit. It is closely connected to the Yorkshire terrier and the Australian terrier, and those influences can still be seen in its appearance and temperament. From the Yorkshire terrier came much of the glamorous coat quality, while the Australian terrier contributed toughness, confidence, and practical terrier instincts.

Although it is now usually kept as a companion dog, the breed was not created purely for looks. Early Silkies were valued as alert little household dogs that could also tackle vermin. That blend of beauty and usefulness shaped the breed’s character. Even today, many individuals retain a strong desire to chase, investigate, and patrol their surroundings.

Over time, the Silky terrier became appreciated beyond Australia for its stylish appearance, manageable size, and bold nature. It appealed to people who wanted a small dog that still felt active and engaged, rather than passive. In that sense, it fills an interesting middle ground between ornamental toy breeds and more rugged working terriers.

Its role today is mostly that of companion, family dog, and occasional participant in dog sports or obedience activities. Some owners are surprised by how much this little dog enjoys having things to do. The breed may look polished enough for the show ring, but beneath that silky coat is a dog that still likes action.

For readers exploring small companion breeds more broadly, the wider [Dog Breeds](https://getapet.com/en/breeds/dog) section can help place the Silky terrier alongside other terriers and toy dogs with different care and energy profiles.

What makes the breed’s history especially interesting is that it never lost its terrier backbone. Many small dogs become known mainly for appearance, but the Silky terrier has kept a sense of purpose and spark. That is a big part of why dedicated enthusiasts remain so fond of it.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Silky terrier is often enjoyable, funny, and more hands-on than first-time owners expect. This breed may be small enough for apartment life, but it is not a decorative background dog. It notices routines, responds to household energy, and usually wants a meaningful role in daily life. That might mean joining walks, learning games, supervising the kitchen, or announcing visitors before the doorbell fully rings.

The level of commitment is moderate but steady. A Silky does not need extreme exercise, yet it does need daily structure. Grooming is also a real part of ownership. If you enjoy brushing and keeping a dog looking neat, that can be a pleasure. If not, you should budget for professional grooming or a practical maintenance trim.

New owners should prepare for:

- Regular brushing and coat checks
- Daily walks and short training sessions
- Early work on barking control
- Careful introductions to children and other pets
- Ongoing dental care
- Supervision around tiny escape gaps, since small terriers can be surprisingly adventurous

Annual costs vary by country and lifestyle, but owners should expect expenses for quality food, veterinary care, grooming tools or appointments, insurance, training classes, and preventive treatments. In many homes, the yearly total will be notably higher than people assume for a small dog. Size reduces food costs, but not necessarily healthcare or grooming costs. Insurance is often worth considering, especially for a breed that may need dental or joint-related care over time. The [Pet Insurance](https://getapet.com/en/pet-insurance) page can be helpful if you are planning the long-term budget.

Useful equipment for a Silky terrier includes a well-fitted harness, lightweight lead, grooming comb, soft brush, non-slip bedding, chew-safe dental items, and puzzle toys. Many also benefit from indoor ramps or steps if they like climbing on furniture.

<x-quote text="The biggest surprise was not the grooming, it was how much daily routine mattered. On days without a proper walk and five minutes of training, he became far more vocal indoors." from="Oskar, first-time dog owner" />

For the right person, this breed is deeply rewarding. A Silky terrier suits owners who want a small dog with style, intelligence, and terrier spirit, and who are happy to match that spark with time, patience, and consistent care.

Silky terrier

The Silky terrier is a small, elegant but sturdy terrier with a fine silky coat and a bold, lively nature. Affectionate and alert, it suits owners who can provide regular grooming, daily walks, training, and mental stimulation. It often combines portability with strong terrier instincts.

Tom Einar Clausen

## Quick Facts

The Border Collie is a British sheepdog for someone who wants to work with, train and give their dog meaningful tasks throughout its life. The breed is highly trainable and has great stamina, but those same qualities often make it more demanding than a dog bred primarily for companionship.

- **Dog type:** purebred sheepdog, recognised by the FCI in Group 1
- **Size:** medium; the ideal height for males is about 53 cm, with females usually slightly shorter
- **Weight:** approximately 12–20 kg, with variation according to sex and build
- **Life expectancy:** approximately 10–15 years
- **Coat:** smooth or moderately long double coat in many colours
- **Typical traits:** alert, biddable, responsive, intelligent and strongly motivated to work
- **Best suited to:** a committed owner who enjoys regular training and can teach both activity and rest

The key question before buying is not whether the family walks for a set number of hours, but whether daily life allows time for regular training and cooperation. A Border Collie needs to use its brain, express its herding instincts in controlled ways and also learn to settle at home.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Collie is an athletic, well-balanced dog, built for agility and sustained work rather than for a uniform appearance. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, smooth and efficient. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 53 cm for males and slightly less for females, although both size and build vary noticeably within the breed.

The standard describes two coat varieties: smooth and moderately long. Both have a dense, medium-textured outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat that provides weather resistance. The moderately long coat forms more of a mane, breeching and brush, while the smooth coat lies closer to the body. Many colours and markings occur; black and white and tricolour are common, but the standard permits considerable variety provided white does not predominate.

The coat is basically straightforward to maintain. Brush as often as needed to remove loose undercoat and prevent matting, particularly behind the ears and in areas of feathering. More frequent brushing is needed during periods of heavier shedding. Bathe when necessary. A dog that works or trains outdoors should also be checked afterwards: examine the paws, nails, skin and coat for injuries, grass awns, ticks and debris.

## Temperament & Personality

The Border Collie is attentive, cooperative and extremely quick to notice patterns. It therefore learns not only what its owner intends to teach, but also which sounds predict a walk, how people normally move and which behaviours produce a response. Highly trainable does not automatically mean easy to live with; unclear routines and accidental rewards can establish behaviour just as quickly as considered training.

Herding depends on the dog noticing and influencing movement. In everyday life without sheep, the same sensitivity can be directed towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals. Staring, stalking, cutting off a path and chasing are signals to address early. They should be interrupted calmly and replaced with a trained alternative, not encouraged as an amusing quirk.

A Border Collie can live successfully in a family, but the breed is not universally “good with children” regardless of the individual and environment. Running, shouting and fast play can trigger herding behaviour or stress. Children and dogs therefore need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Living with a cat or other dogs can also work, especially with thoughtful introductions, but cannot be guaranteed on the basis of breed alone. The cat should be able to withdraw and the dog should be taught to leave it alone.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Collie needs both physical activity and tasks requiring concentration every day, but it is not possible to specify a number of hours that suits every individual. Age, health, temperament, previous training and work determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates movement, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery.

Walks in varied surroundings, free movement where it is safe, scent work, obedience, tracking, herding and other dog sports engage the dog in different ways. Choose activities in which the dog must listen and make decisions, not merely run quickly. Endless ball throwing or other highly arousing repetition is a poor measure of whether the dog’s needs have been met; it can increase anticipation without teaching the dog to settle.

Keep training sessions short, clear and reward based. Give everyday skills such as recall, lead walking, stopping at a distance and disengaging from movement as much attention as tricks or competitive exercises. Reward calm behaviour too: lying in a designated place, waiting while something happens and sleeping after activity. A Border Collie that is always offered more high-speed activity can become extremely fit without learning how to rest.

Puppies and young dogs need controlled experiences, not a miniature version of an adult training schedule. Build confidence in different environments, allow the body to mature and increase physical load and difficulty gradually. If the dog becomes more scattered, noise-sensitive or fixated despite receiving more activity, the answer may be a better balance and professional help rather than still harder exercise.

## Health

The Border Collie is regarded as comparatively healthy, but the breed has documented conditions that a puppy buyer should understand. Hip dysplasia (HD), Collie eye anomaly (CEA), other retinal changes, epilepsy and osteochondrosis affecting mainly the shoulder are among the areas highlighted by the Swedish Kennel Club and the Swedish Sheepdog Society.

When assessing a Swedish-registered litter, start by checking the parents’ official hip status and eye examination. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, the eye result must be recorded before mating and would normally be no more than one year old. Check the registered results and also ask about epilepsy, recurring seizures, shoulder problems and early deaths among siblings, parents and other close relatives. Normal results for two parents do not describe the health of an entire family line.

DNA tests are available for several inherited conditions in the breed, including CEA, IGS, TNS and sensory neuropathy. Which tests are relevant depends on ancestry and current recommendations. Ask the breeder to explain what has been tested and why. For recessive diseases, a healthy carrier is not the same as an affected dog; what matters is planning the mating so puppies cannot inherit the disease variant from both parents. A DNA test does not replace a clinical eye examination, joint results or knowledge of the wider family.

A dog with Border Collie collapse (BCC) may be completely symptom-free at rest but become disorientated, unsteady or fall during or shortly after intense activity. The dog may appear to recover after 5–30 minutes, but any collapse must be taken seriously and assessed by a vet. BCC is not the same as ordinary fatigue, heatstroke or the dynamin-1-related EIC variant more commonly seen in Labrador Retrievers. Stop the activity immediately if the dog’s focus or movement changes abnormally.

## History & Origins

The Border Collie developed in the border country between England and Scotland as a working dog for sheep farming. Selection was based for a long time on practical herding ability: the dog needed to read livestock, work at a distance and respond to its handler’s signals in demanding conditions. This functional background explains the breed’s eye, stalking movement, endurance and strong drive to control movement.

The FCI recognises the Border Collie as a British sheepdog subject to a working trial. In Sweden, function also has an unusually explicit place in registration. The breed is entered in the Swedish Kennel Club’s dedicated sheepdog register, REG V, and a Swedish-born Border Collie can only be registered when both parents have passed a herding trial held by Svenska Vallhundsklubben (SVaK) or have an approved equivalent qualification from abroad. Appearance can consequently vary more than in many other breeds, while working ability remains central to the Swedish breeding model.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Border Collie requires planning, but not constant entertainment. The goal is a dog that can work with focus when needed and rest when nothing is happening. That balance is best suited to a home where someone genuinely enjoys dog training and where responsibility does not depend on children exercising the dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically ruled out, and a large garden does not guarantee a good life. Access to suitable training environments, safe exercise and a routine that can genuinely be maintained matter more. In a busy area, the owner must be able to manage traffic, bicycles, runners, sounds and encounters without the dog becoming stuck in herding or constant vigilance.

Time alone should be trained gradually, beginning with very short periods and adjusted to the dog’s age and reactions. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a promise that a dog will be comfortable alone for that long. Consider filming early sessions and step back if the dog paces, pants, barks, damages things or cannot settle. A routine involving repeated long working days without help is a poor starting point for this breed.

Before buying a Swedish puppy, check at least three things for both parents: a registered hip status, a valid eye result and a pass in an approved herding trial. Then ask about epilepsy and joint health in close relatives, relevant DNA tests, how the parents behave both at rest and at work, and what support the breeder provides after the purchase. The best match is not about finding the “cleverest” puppy, but choosing one whose temperament and working drive suit what you can offer throughout the dog’s life.

Border Collie

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Border Collie is a medium, athletic herding dog known for intense focus, high intelligence and very high energy. Developed to work sheep all day, it excels in herding, sports and training. It needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and structured guidance in an active home.

Stine Färber

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Stream Of Sunlights

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Westdreams

Dainty's

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Ingvild Lid Tomren Søvik

Katarina Håkansson

## Quick Facts

The English Springer Spaniel is an active British gundog bred to find game, flush it from cover and retrieve it. It is best suited to someone who wants to engage both the dog's body and mind every day, whether through shooting, dog sports or a varied outdoor life.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of approximately 51 centimetres at the withers. It does not specify a weight, so a fixed weight range is not a useful benchmark for every dog.
- **Type:** The breed has long included distinct breeding lines, particularly working-bred and more show-oriented dogs. A breeder's aims and the parents' traits say more about what a puppy may inherit than the label alone.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog. Individual dogs still differ in areas such as activity level, sociability and sensitivity.
- **Activity:** The breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** Dense, straight and weather-resistant, with feathering that needs regular brushing and trimming.
- **The right home:** A good choice for someone who wants to train, work with their dog and spend plenty of time outdoors; a poorer fit if the dog is often expected to make do with brief toilet walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Springer Spaniel is a strong, compact dog with a balanced, elegant outline. The standard gives a height of about 51 centimetres at the withers but no official weight range. Do not judge a dog against an arbitrary figure on the scales. Assess body condition instead: there should be a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure.

The coat should be dense and straight, providing protection from the weather without being coarse. The longer hair on the ears, legs and body forms moderate feathering. Permitted colours are liver and white or black and white, with or without tan markings.

A thorough brush about once a week is a sensible starting point for many dogs, but the amount of coat, season and activity determine what is actually needed. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, ear feathering and feet after woodland walks, swimming or wet weather, as debris and tangles can collect there. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. Clipping and trimming are required regularly, but the interval should follow the length and quality of the coat rather than a rigid calendar.

The well-feathered drop ears need regular checks. Trim the longer hair on the inside when necessary, and inspect the ears after swimming. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge or repeated scratching warrants veterinary advice rather than continued cleaning without knowing the cause.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Marked shyness and aggression are not desired traits. This makes the English Springer Spaniel an appealing working companion, but it does not guarantee how every dog will behave with children, strangers or other animals.

Results from BPH behavioural assessments also show that a breed average does not tell the whole story. Dogs of the same breed can react differently in social situations, during play and when something unexpected happens. The breed also includes different breeding lines that have not always been assessed separately. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, which traits have been prioritised and whether BPH or other relevant test results are available.

The breed needs opportunities to use its curiosity and willingness to work. High activity should not, however, be confused with a need to remain constantly on the go. The ability to switch between work and rest should be taught from the start through clear routines, calm breaks and suitably challenging tasks.

## Training & Exercise

The breed's original working sequence – hunt, flush and retrieve – explains much of its training needs. Many individuals enjoy investigating ground and cover, carrying objects and working closely with their handler. Walks can therefore be more rewarding when they sometimes include scent work, retrieving, simple searches or another shared training task.

There is no single daily exercise duration that suits every dog. A fit, healthy adult can cope with far more than a puppy, an older dog or one returning to activity after a break. Base the workload on age, health, fitness and recovery. Combine unhurried walks, time moving through varied terrain, mental training and rest instead of trying to exhaust the dog with intense exercise every day.

Checking in with the handler, recall and the ability to remain in place despite scent or movement are especially useful skills. Begin in easy situations and increase distractions gradually. Positive, reward-based methods and short sessions help preserve confidence and willingness to cooperate. A long line can add safety during training, but it does not prove that the dog will later be reliable off lead everywhere.

In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wild animals unless taking part in hunting. Extra control is required in places where wildlife may be present between 1 March and 20 August. If a dog has a strong interest in game, its owner must be able to prevent it from setting off in pursuit.

## Health

The English Springer Spaniel is generally described as a healthy breed. When buying a puppy, it is nevertheless important to distinguish formal requirements from breed-club recommendations. A long list of every condition ever reported in the breed is less useful than current results for the specific parents and their families.

For litters registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that they must have been assessed and a result must be available; it does not mean that every grade is automatically equally suitable for breeding. Springerklubben has more detailed breeding recommendations concerning hip results and combinations. Ask to see the parents' actual results and how the proposed mating follows the club's current guidance.

The breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination no more than one year before mating. Gonioscopy before a dog's first mating forms part of the club's guidance for assessing the drainage angle of the eye. Check the date, diagnoses and any follow-up advice on the certificates; do not settle for being told that the dogs have simply been “tested”.

Fucosidosis is a recessively inherited enzyme deficiency that can affect the central nervous system. A carrier does not become ill from the variant but can pass it on. A DNA test is available, allowing the breeder to document the parents' status and avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies. Understanding the verified results matters more than demanding the same set of tests for every dog.

In everyday life, check the ears and monitor body condition regularly. Recurrent ear trouble, changes in the eyes, lameness or other symptoms should be assessed by a vet. Do not assume that a problem is harmless simply because someone calls it “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The English Springer Spaniel comes from Britain's old spaniel tradition. These dogs were used to find and flush game for hunting with nets, falcons or Greyhounds. As shooting developed, their work became searching ahead of the gun, flushing game and then retrieving it.

The word “springer” refers to making game leave its hiding place. The Kennel Club recognised the English Springer Spaniel as a distinct breed in 1902. Sweden's Springerklubben was founded in 1982.

Breeding has followed different directions for many years. Working populations have primarily been selected for performance, while others have been selected more for conformation and the show ring. This is an important historical and practical distinction, but it does not create two simple personality templates. There is variation within both directions, and modern dogs may take part in several activities. A buyer should therefore assess the particular breeder's aims, the parents and the wider family rather than relying on a label alone.

## Living with the Breed

An English Springer Spaniel can live in a flat if it receives sufficient activity, recovery time and access to countryside or other suitable training environments. A garden does not replace walks and activities with its owner. What matters is how the dog's day is spent, not whether the home is a house or a flat.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and settled, and increase the duration only when it can relax. Individuals vary, so do not organise daily life on the assumption that the breed name guarantees a certain number of hours alone.

An adult should always supervise time with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. The standard's description of a friendly dog never replaces supervision. Take the same care with other animals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings brief and controlled, and give the cat its own escape routes. Whether a particular dog lives well with cats or other dogs depends on the individual, its previous experience and the introduction.

When considering a puppy, it is particularly useful to check:

- the breeder's goals and whether the dogs' level of working drive suits your life
- both parents' official hip results, not merely that they have been X-rayed
- the date and full result of eye examinations, including any gonioscopy
- verified fucosidosis status where relevant to the mating
- how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, ideally supplemented by BPH or working results
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different environments and ordinary family life.

The best match is a dog whose likely activity level, willingness to work and sensitivity fit the owner's real routine. For an English Springer Spaniel, that assessment is more valuable than promises that the breed is always easy, good with children or the same regardless of breeding direction.

English Springer Spaniel

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The English Springer Spaniel is a medium, athletic gundog with a feathered, weather‑resistant coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, affectionate and people‑oriented, it requires 1.5–2 hours of daily mental and physical exercise. Generally healthy, active, and suited to engaged, outdoorsy homes.

Big Brazzel

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Pure Silverline

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Sjöglimtens

## Quick Facts

- One of the smallest terriers, but packed with confidence and character.  
- Bred as a hardworking ratter on farms and in stables, so still loves to hunt and explore.  
- Distinctive prick ears and a slightly foxy expression that gives a bright, alert look.  
- Weather resistant, “wash and wear” harsh coat that needs regular tidying rather than heavy grooming.  
- Generally sturdy and long lived, often remaining playful and lively well into their senior years.  


## Appearance & Coat

The Norwich Terrier is a small, compact dog, but people are often surprised by how solid and sturdy this little terrier feels when they pick one up. The ideal height is around 25 to 26 centimeters at the withers, with a weight that typically falls between 5 and 6 kilograms, although some healthy dogs sit just outside this range. The body is short and well knit, with good bone and substance. Nothing about the Norwich should look fragile or fine boned. They were bred as working terriers, so the overall impression is of a small but capable dog that could fit into tight spaces, yet still stand its ground.

The head is one of the most charming features. Norwich Terriers have a slightly rounded skull, a strong muzzle, and a distinct stop. Their dark, oval eyes are bright and full of expression, often giving an impression of curiosity and mischief. Pricked, medium sized ears sit well apart and are carried erect, which adds to the alert and foxy expression that many owners fall in love with. The tail is usually of moderate length, set high and carried gaily when the dog is on the move, although not curled over the back.

The coat is a big part of the breed’s character. Norwich Terriers wear a harsh, straight, weather resistant outer coat with a dense and softer undercoat. The body coat should feel tight and almost wiry to the touch, never soft or fluffy. Around the neck and shoulders there is often a thicker ruff that gives a slightly lion like look, while the hair on the head and ears is shorter and smoother, with enough hair on the muzzle to form gentle whiskers but not a full beard.

Accepted colors include:

- Red, from light wheaten to deep rich red  
- Black and tan  
- Grizzle  
- Wheaten  

White markings are not typical and are generally discouraged in the show ring, although a small patch is not unusual in pets.

Coat care for a Norwich Terrier is fairly manageable compared with many other breeds, but it is important to maintain the correct texture. Regular brushing, about two to three times a week, helps remove loose hair and prevent tangles, especially around the ruff and hindquarters. A slicker brush and a metal comb usually work well. Many owners also learn basic hand stripping, which means gently pulling out dead outer coat by hand or with a stripping knife. This keeps the coat harsh and weatherproof. Clipping is possible for pet dogs, but it tends to soften the coat and can make it more prone to matting and absorbing dirt.

Bathing should be done only when needed, since frequent baths can strip the natural oils that protect the coat and skin. A mild dog shampoo, followed by thorough rinsing and drying, is usually enough. Check ears regularly for wax and debris, trim nails every few weeks, and keep an eye on dental health. Their small mouths can be prone to tartar, so regular tooth brushing is very helpful. With sensible grooming and attention to coat texture, the Norwich Terrier remains a smart, practical little dog who always looks ready for action.  


## Temperament & Personality

Life with a Norwich Terrier is rarely dull. This is a big personality in a small body, often described as fearless, game, and full of fun. At the same time, a well bred and well socialized Norwich is also known for being more easy going and less sharp than some other terrier breeds. They tend to bond very closely with their families and usually prefer being involved in every part of household life instead of being left on the sidelines.

Around the home, the Norwich Terrier often follows their people from room to room, always interested in what is happening. Many owners describe them as “shadows with muddy paws.” They love to curl up on the sofa after a good walk or play session, and while they are certainly active, their energy is not usually excessive as long as their needs for exercise and mental stimulation are met. Indoors, they can be fairly calm, but they switch to full “on duty” mode the moment the doorbell rings or a squirrel dares to cross the garden.

With children, Norwich Terriers are generally affectionate and playful, especially if they have grown up with them. Their sturdy body and confident nature often make them more tolerant of the noise and bustle of family life than some other toy sized breeds. That said, they are still small dogs and should be treated with respect. Young children need to be taught how to handle them gently, and interactions should always be supervised to avoid accidents such as rough grabbing or falling on the dog. When treated kindly, many Norwich become wonderful childhood companions who join in games and love being part of family routines.

With other dogs, Norwich Terriers can be sociable if well introduced and socialized from puppyhood. They are terriers, so they may not back down if challenged, but most are not naturally quarrelsome. Care around much larger and boisterous dogs is sensible to prevent injury. With cats and small pets, their strong prey drive can be a challenge. Some Norwich live peacefully with a resident cat that they have grown up with, but wild animals and small furry pets such as hamsters or rabbits are likely to trigger their natural hunting instincts.

Common challenges often relate to this terrier heritage. Norwich Terriers like to bark to announce visitors or interesting noises, which makes them good little watchdogs but can cause tension with neighbors if not guided early. They may dig in the garden in search of imaginary prey, and their curiosity can tempt them to follow an interesting scent under a fence. Good fencing and supervision in the garden are therefore important. Separation anxiety can appear in dogs that are left alone for many hours, since they tend to thrive on companionship. A Norwich Terrier is happiest when it can share life closely with its people, not when it is treated as a decorative accessory.  


## Training & Exercise

Norwich Terriers are intelligent and motivated dogs, but they also come with a dash of terrier independence. Successful training usually combines patience, consistency, and a good sense of humor. They respond extremely well to positive reinforcement methods that use food, toys, and praise as rewards. Harsh corrections or heavy handed handling can damage their trust and may make them stubborn or worried instead of cooperative.

Basic obedience training should start early, ideally from the day the puppy comes home. Short, varied sessions work best, since Norwich Terriers can lose interest if work becomes repetitive. Simple cues such as “sit,” “down,” “come,” and “leave it” are important, as is reliable recall. Because of their instinct to chase small animals, a solid recall is one of the most valuable skills you can teach. Many owners find that using a long training line outdoors during the learning phase allows the dog some freedom while still keeping everyone safe.

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Norwich Terriers enjoy problem solving, so games and training that ask them to think can be very satisfying. They often excel at:

- Clicker training of tricks and fun behaviors  
- Nose work games, such as searching for hidden treats or toys  
- Interactive puzzle feeders and slow feeding bowls  
- Beginner level agility or rally activities  

Formal dog sports are not a requirement, but they can be a great outlet for an energetic Norwich and a lovely way to strengthen the bond between dog and owner.

In terms of exercise, the Norwich Terrier is more active than its size suggests. Most adults need around one to one and a half hours of daily activity, spread across walks, play, and free exploration. A typical day might include a brisk morning walk, some play time or training games during the afternoon, and a shorter evening stroll. They usually enjoy off lead running in safe, enclosed areas. Many Norwich love to chase balls and play tug, and some enjoy paddling or swimming in safe water once they have been gently introduced.

Young puppies should not be over exercised, since their bones and joints are still developing. Short, frequent outings and gentle play are better than long hikes. As the dog matures, you can gradually increase distance and intensity. Adult Norwich Terriers often enjoy longer countryside walks and can keep up surprisingly well, but it is wise to build fitness slowly and pay attention to very hot weather, as their small bodies can overheat faster than a larger, leaner breed.

Because they are bright and sometimes a little too self assured, Norwich Terriers will take advantage of inconsistency. Clear rules and routines help them understand what is expected. For example, decide early whether your dog will be allowed on the sofa or bed, and stick to it. Many owners find crate training useful for managing rest periods and creating a safe space, especially during puppyhood. When training is fun, varied, and fair, the Norwich Terrier tends to become a cheerful and keen partner who loves to show off what it has learned.  


## Health

The Norwich Terrier is generally considered a robust and healthy breed, especially compared with some larger or more heavily exaggerated breeds. Their moderate structure, natural tail, and functional body preserve much of the soundness required in a working terrier. Many Norwich live well into their teens, with 12 to 14 years being common when they receive good care, a healthy diet, and sensible exercise.

Like all breeds, they have some health issues that occur more frequently than in the general dog population. Responsible breeders work to reduce these risks through health testing, thoughtful breeding choices, and careful monitoring of lines.

Some conditions that are known in the breed include:

- Respiratory issues such as upper airway problems and a condition known as Norwich Terrier Upper Airway Syndrome, which can involve noisy breathing, gagging, or exercise intolerance in affected dogs  
- Eye conditions, including cataracts and other inherited eye diseases  
- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap slips out of place, which can cause lameness or an odd skipping gait  
- Hip dysplasia, less common in this small breed than in large dogs, but still monitored in many countries  
- Dental issues, as with many small breeds, including tartar buildup and occasional tooth crowding  

Health testing recommendations can vary by country and kennel club, but may include eye examinations, knee checks, and in some regions, respiratory evaluations and hip scoring. Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders what health tests they carry out and how they use the results in planning their litters. A caring breeder will be open about the strengths and weaknesses in their lines and will explain how they aim to improve the health and temperament of future generations.

Routine veterinary care plays a big role in keeping a Norwich Terrier healthy. Regular checkups, vaccinations or titer testing according to local guidelines, and parasite control for fleas, ticks, and worms are all important. Preventive dental care is particularly valuable. Brushing the dog’s teeth several times a week with canine toothpaste can greatly reduce the risk of periodontal disease, which in turn supports overall health, including heart and kidney function.

Weight management deserves close attention. Because the Norwich Terrier is compact and small, just a kilogram of extra weight represents a significant percentage of their body mass. Extra weight can put pressure on joints, worsen breathing issues, and reduce energy levels. A good quality, balanced diet appropriate for the dog’s age, activity level, and any special needs, combined with portion control and regular exercise, helps maintain an ideal body condition.

Owners should be aware of early signs that might indicate health concerns, such as changes in breathing sounds, reduced exercise tolerance, persistent coughing, cloudiness in the eyes, changes in gait, or reluctance to jump. Early veterinary assessment usually leads to better outcomes. With informed breeding practices and attentive lifelong care, most Norwich Terriers enjoy many years of active, affectionate companionship.  


## History & Origins

The Norwich Terrier comes from the historic county of Norfolk in eastern England, an area known for its farms, stables, and bustling market towns. The breed developed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as a small, agile working terrier whose main job was to control rats and other vermin. Farmers, horsemen, and stable workers valued a dog that could fit into tight spaces, had the courage to face determined pests, and still be friendly and manageable around people and other dogs.

The early Norwich type likely arose from mixing various small terriers that were common in the region at the time, including red and wheaten working terriers that bore some resemblance to today’s Cairn and Irish Terriers. These little dogs were sometimes known locally as “Cantab” terriers, especially around Cambridge, where they gained popularity among students who kept them as both companions and ratters in college rooms and stables.

Originally, both prick eared and drop eared varieties were considered the same breed. Over time, enthusiasts began to focus more carefully on type and standardization. In 1932, the breed was officially recognized under the name Norwich Terrier, taking its name from the city of Norwich. For many years, both ear types were registered together. However, the differences in appearance and breeding became more distinct, leading eventually to a formal separation. In the 1960s, kennel clubs in several countries recognized the prick eared dogs as Norwich Terriers and the drop eared dogs as a separate but closely related breed, the Norfolk Terrier.

Despite their small size, Norwich Terriers retained their working character. They were used not only for farm and stable work but also sometimes for bolting foxes, although they were never large enough to take on such quarry directly. Their courage, persistence, and compact build made them valuable companions wherever vermin were a problem.

As the twentieth century progressed and the need for working ratters declined, the Norwich Terrier gradually transitioned into a companion and show dog. The breed’s cheerful attitude, portability, and manageable coat helped it gain admirers in Britain, Scandinavia, and North America, and later across the world. Breed clubs formed to protect and promote the Norwich Terrier, focusing on preserving sound structure, stable temperament, and the tough, weather resistant coat that spoke of its working past.

Today, the Norwich Terrier is rarely used as a professional ratter, but the instincts remain. Many enjoy earthdog trials, tracking games, and other activities that mimic their traditional work. Above all, they are cherished as lively, affectionate family companions that bring a touch of old farmhouse spirit into modern homes. Their history as a practical, hardworking terrier still shapes their character, making the Norwich Terrier a small dog of real substance and determination.  


## Living with the Breed

Bringing a Norwich Terrier into your home means committing to an engaging, energetic companion who wants to be fully involved in your daily life. This is not a breed that thrives when left alone for long working days without company or stimulation. They fit well into many types of households, from single owners in apartments to active families in houses with gardens, as long as their social and exercise needs are met.

In terms of space, Norwich Terriers adapt well to smaller homes, provided they receive enough outdoor time and mental stimulation. A securely fenced garden is ideal but not essential if you can offer several good walks every day. Because of their hunting instincts, a secure environment is important. Gaps under fences, loose boards, or easy escape routes can all tempt a curious Norwich. Many owners choose solid fencing rather than low decorative borders, and some supervise all garden time to prevent digging or adventurous exploration.

The daily routine with a Norwich Terrier often includes a mix of walks, play, and relaxation. They appreciate structure. Morning and evening walks at roughly the same times each day, regular feeding times, and consistent rules help them feel secure. They particularly enjoy being involved in family activities, such as car trips, visits to dog friendly cafés, or watching sports in the park. The more they are included, the happier they tend to be.

Financially, owning a Norwich Terrier involves similar costs to other small pedigree dogs. Initial expenses include the purchase price, vaccinations, microchipping, spaying or neutering if appropriate, a crate or bed, bowls, grooming tools, a harness or collar, lead, toys, and insurance if you choose to take it. Ongoing annual costs usually involve:

- Quality food  
- Routine veterinary care and vaccinations  
- Parasite prevention  
- Grooming, especially if you use a professional for hand stripping  
- Pet insurance or a savings fund for unexpected veterinary bills  

Grooming costs can vary depending on whether you learn to hand strip at home or visit a groomer regularly. Many owners choose a combination, doing basic maintenance themselves and booking a few professional sessions each year.

Useful equipment for a Norwich Terrier includes a well fitting harness for walks, since small dogs can be prone to neck strain if they pull on a collar. A crate or quiet den area helps with house training and provides a safe retreat. Because they like to chew and play, a variety of durable toys is valuable, including chew toys, small balls that fit safely in their mouth, and soft toys for indoor games. Puzzle feeders or treat dispensing toys are excellent for keeping their clever minds busy, especially when you are occupied with other tasks.

New owners should be prepared to invest time in early socialization. Introducing the puppy to a wide range of people, gentle dogs, sounds, and environments in a positive way helps create a confident adult Norwich Terrier. Puppy training classes run by experienced instructors can be very beneficial. Consistent boundaries and calm leadership help prevent common behavior issues such as excessive barking or possessiveness over toys.

Living with a Norwich Terrier rewards that commitment in many ways. You gain a loyal, lively little dog who is usually ready to walk, play, or simply sit beside you while you relax. Their size makes them easy to transport, and their sturdy temperament means they are often good travelers and adaptable guests. With thoughtful preparation and a realistic view of the time and energy required, a Norwich Terrier fits beautifully into many modern lifestyles, bringing companionship, enthusiasm, and a touch of terrier spirit to every day.

Norwich Terrier

Norwich Terrier Club of Great Britain

Den Norske Kenneklub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Norwich Terriers are small, sturdy, confident terriers with prick ears, a foxy, alert expression and a harsh, weather‑resistant coat. Bred as farm ratters, they remain lively, curious hunters, need regular exercise, mental stimulation and moderate grooming, and are generally long lived.

Cobby's

## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

Smålandsstaffar

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Sweet Ninos

Brazilian Terrier

Verein für Deutsche Spitze (German Society for German Spitz and Related Breeds)

The Brazilian Terrier is a medium‑small, athletic, tricolor farm terrier from Brazil, bred for ratting and watchdog work. Energetic, intelligent, and often bonded to one person, it needs daily exercise, consistent positive training, and mental stimulation. Grooming is simple; sourcing puppies abroad can be difficult.

Dog Breeders

For Buyers

For Sellers

Tools

Dogs

Cats

Get a Pet