Dreampaws

Södra Byhult

## Quick Facts

- The Bernese Mountain Dog is a large Swiss farm dog originally used for guarding, draught work and driving cattle. Today, it is primarily a companion and versatile working dog.
- Males stand 64–70 cm at the withers, with 66–68 cm preferred. Females stand 58–66 cm, with 60–63 cm preferred. The breed standard does not specify a weight.
- The breed should be self-confident, attentive, good-natured and devoted to its family, as well as friendly towards strangers.
- An adult needs substantial activity every day. Puppies and young dogs should not be given structured conditioning work or heavy physical loads.
- The long double coat normally needs a thorough brush each week, and more often during moulting.
- In Sweden, both parents must have official hip and elbow results before mating. The HS test for histiocytic sarcoma estimates risk; it does not say that a dog is healthy or affected.
- Tumours and low longevity are the breed's most serious health concerns. The lifespan and documented causes of death among relatives therefore matter when choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bernese Mountain Dog is large and powerful, but it should also be mobile, harmonious and well balanced. Its body is roughly ten per cent longer than its height at the withers and should look compact rather than elongated. A heavy outline is not the same as correct breed type: the dog should move freely and carry its size without being overweight.

Males should stand 64–70 cm, ideally 66–68 cm. Females should stand 58–66 cm, ideally 60–63 cm. The breed standard gives no weight range. Assess an adult by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead of aiming for a particular number on the scales.

The head should be powerful without being too heavy. The eyes are dark brown and almond-shaped, and the ears are medium-sized and triangular. The bushy tail reaches at least to the hock and hangs down when the dog is relaxed, but may rise to the level of the back when moving.

The coat is long and glossy, either straight or slightly wavy. The base colour is jet black, with rich rust markings on the cheeks, above the eyes, on the legs and on the chest. White appears in places including a symmetrical blaze and the throat and chest. White feet and a white tail tip are desirable, but symmetry of markings says nothing about a dog's health.

The Swedish Kennel Club's breed guide recommends brushing or combing once a week and daily during moulting. Adapt this to the individual dog and the season. Work down to the skin and check behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where tangles can hide. At the same time, feel for lumps, tenderness and changes to the skin.

Schedule longer summer activities for cooler parts of the day, provide shade and water, and let the dog rest if it is not recovering normally. Never leave a dog in a hot car, even in the shade or with a window partly open.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Bernese Mountain Dog should be confident, good-natured and biddable, not fearful or aggressive. The standard also describes an attentive, watchful dog that is devoted to its family and friendly towards strangers. This is a breeding and temperament goal, not a guarantee for every puppy or every situation.

The breed is often sociable and willing to cooperate, but a boisterous adolescent of this size can knock over a child, pull an adult off balance or crowd a visitor without any aggressive intent. From an early age, teach four paws on the floor, calm greetings, loose-lead walking and settling in a designated place.

Socialisation does not mean making the puppy greet everyone. Offer calm experiences of people, dogs, traffic, surfaces, handling and different environments, while allowing it to watch from a distance. Repeated fearfulness should be taken seriously rather than dismissed as the breed being “sensitive”.

A Bernese Mountain Dog can live successfully with children and other animals, but the individual and the introduction make the difference. Children should not climb on the dog or disturb it when sleeping. The dog needs a quiet resting place, and an adult should always supervise interactions between dogs and young children.

## Training & Exercise

An adult Bernese Mountain Dog needs proper exercise and meaningful activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes. Adapt the amount to age, body condition, health, fitness, surface and temperature. Walks with time to sniff, everyday training, scent work and play create a better routine than simply trying to exhaust the dog.

For puppies and young dogs, the Swedish Kennel Club distinguishes natural movement from deliberate exercise. Let the dog move at its own pace and rest when needed. Planned runs, repeated jumping and heavy draught work should wait until the dog is physically mature. Do not rely on a simple five-minute rule; adjust activity according to the dog's movement, fatigue and recovery.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions work well. Prioritise skills that become difficult to teach only after the dog has reached its full size:

- walking on a loose lead and turning with the handler
- greeting without jumping up or leaning its full weight against someone
- recall and engagement around distractions
- waiting at doorways and getting calmly in and out of the car
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat

The breed's heritage can be channelled into scent work, obedience, rally, carrying a dog pack, or the breed club's draught and working tests. Pulling a load requires suitable equipment, gradual preparation and a physically mature, healthy dog.

## Health

Health and longevity must carry considerable weight when choosing a Bernese Mountain Dog. The current Swedish breeding strategy identifies tumours as the breed's greatest health problem and shows that low longevity remains an issue. Even so, nobody can promise how many years an individual dog will live.

In the Swedish insurance mortality data for 2016–2021 reported in the breeding strategy, the median age was 5.5 years. In a Swiss study of club-registered dogs born in 2001–2002, median survival was 8.4 years. The populations, periods and methods differ, so these figures are not the same kind of forecast. They show why health and longevity in close relatives are more useful than one general range.

Tumours accounted for more than half of deaths in both a Swiss and a Dutch study. Histiocytic sarcoma is the tumour type specifically targeted by the breed's health programme. The HS test places dogs in lower, average or higher genetic risk groups relative to the breed. It is not a diagnostic test: a lower-risk dog may still develop the disease, while a higher-risk dog may remain healthy.

HSIMS estimates the risk of a proposed mating from the parents' HS results. It must be considered alongside longevity, other aspects of health, relatedness and function. Selecting solely for the lowest risk would reduce genetic diversity. The Swedish breeding strategy recommends HS testing, but it is not required for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. Since 2025, however, the Swedish Sennenhund Club's puppy-listing service has required both parents to be tested.

Both parents must have official hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. Dogs with HD grades D or E and ED grades 2 or 3 must not be used. The breeding strategy also recommends parents free from ED and a combined HD and ED index above 100. An index of 100 is the breed average and incorporates information from relatives, so indices and the results of screened littermates reveal more than one isolated result.

Renal dysplasia, or RD, is a serious developmental kidney disorder that mainly affects young dogs. Confirmed cases are recorded centrally, and a definitive diagnosis requires examination of kidney tissue. Familial nephropathy is another documented kidney disease and more often affects young adults. There is no simple DNA test that can show that a proposed mating is free from the inherited risk behind these diseases.

Ask the breeder to show and explain:

- the parents' official hip and elbow results and the proposed mating's current indices
- how many littermates and previous offspring have been screened, and their results
- HS results and how HSIMS and genetic diversity have been taken into account
- kidney disease, tumour diagnoses, longevity and verified causes of death among parents, siblings and older relatives

## History & Origins

The Bernese Mountain Dog has a documented history as a farm dog in the Alpine region around Bern, Switzerland. It guarded farms, pulled loads and helped with cattle. The dogs were known as Dürrbächler after the Dürrbach inn near Riggisberg, where the long-haired, tricoloured type was common.

Dürrbächler dogs were shown at dog shows in 1902, 1904 and 1907. In November 1907, breeders around Burgdorf founded the Schweizerischen Dürrbach-Klub to breed the dogs to a consistent type and define their characteristics. The name Bernese Mountain Dog was later established in relation to the other Swiss mountain dog breeds.

The claim that the breed descends from Roman mastiffs is often repeated, but it is not part of the securely documented history. The reliable account centres on the local farm dog around Bern, its work in guarding, draught and cattle handling, and the organised development of the breed in the early twentieth century.

## Living with the Breed

A Bernese Mountain Dog needs practical space in daily life, not just enough floor area. Flat living can work, but check the stairs, lift, slippery floors, access to suitable walking areas and how an ill dog could be transported. A garden is useful, but it does not replace walks and shared activity.

Plan for a large bed, a car and harness that can accommodate the dog, food, insurance and somewhere to dry a wet coat. Add non-slip surfaces where needed. It is better to solve these practical issues while the dog is young than when it is in pain.

Time alone must be trained to suit the individual. Begin with very short separations while the dog is settled, and increase them only when it can lie down and relax. Persistent whining, pacing, panting or scratching shows that the step was too difficult. The breed's devotion does not prove that it will have separation problems, but nor does it guarantee that a dog can cope with a whole working day alone.

Introduce dogs and cats gradually. Keep them apart at first, let them become used to each other's scent, give the cat a dog-free place and prevent the dog from chasing. Brief meetings through a gate or with the dog on a lead can then be extended when both animals are relaxed. The same calm principle applies when meeting other dogs; the Bernese Mountain Dog's size makes early lead control particularly important.

A good breeder can discuss both strengths and problems in the family and provides documentation, not merely the names of tests. Choose a mating in which health, temperament, function and genetic diversity have been considered together. Openness about ill and deceased relatives is at least as valuable as good results for the parents.

Bernese Mountain Dog

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norway)

Deutscher Club für Berner Sennenhunde e.V. (Germany)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Large Swiss farm-bred dog with a strong, balanced build and a thick tricolour coat. Affectionate, people focused, and usually gentle with children. Needs moderate daily exercise, cool climates, regular grooming, and kind training. Health screening is crucial due to joint issues and cancers.

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Lovahagens

Ulrika Eriksson

Emma Söderholm

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Pop Rocks

## Quick Facts

The Leonberger is a very large German companion and family dog. The breed ideal combines calm confidence with a profuse double coat and a clear need to take part in everyday family life. Size affects almost every decision: training must start early, coat care takes regular time, and the home, car and budget all need to work for a giant dog.

- The FCI recognises the Leonberger as breed number 145 in Group 2, with Germany as its country of origin.
- Males should stand 72–80 cm at the withers and females 65–75 cm. The breed standard specifies no weight.
- The breed ideal is a confident, biddable and friendly family dog, but each dog’s temperament and experience of children must be assessed individually.
- The coat is long and profuse, with an undercoat. Leonbergers shed heavily, particularly during distinct seasonal moults.
- A Leonberger needs physical and mental activity every day, adjusted to age, health and recovery.
- In Sweden, breeding dogs must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed club’s RAS breeding strategy contains further recommendations worth checking when choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Leonberger is a powerful, muscular dog that should still look balanced, agile and elegant. Males stand 72–80 cm and females 65–75 cm. The FCI standard gives no weight range, so a particular figure on the scales is not an official measure of breed type. Proportions, body condition, movement and the build of adult relatives are more useful guides.

A black mask is required by the breed standard. The base colour may be lion yellow, red, reddish brown or sandy, including shades between them. The long, profuse coat ranges from medium-soft to coarse and has a substantial undercoat. It may be straight or slightly wavy. Males in particular may develop a marked mane over the neck and chest, while the legs and hindquarters carry longer feathering.

Give the coat a thorough groom at least once a week and more often when the undercoat is coming away. Brush it section by section all the way to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, under the chin, between the front legs, through the breeches and along the tail. Mats can quickly grow in such a dense coat. After bathing or wet walks, both the skin and thick undercoat need to dry properly.

Leonbergers are not shaped with clippers or trimmed like a clipped breed. Hair on and beneath the feet can be tidied, and an occasional long hair around the ears may be neatened if necessary. Bathing should reflect the individual coat, activity and level of dirt; no fixed timetable suits every dog. Anyone hoping for an almost hair-free home should choose another breed.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for an agreeable, biddable and fearless companion with confidence, moderate liveliness and a good capacity to learn and remember. That is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every Leonberger. The Swedish breed club’s breeding strategy therefore stresses the importance of reading the full behavioural assessment, with particular attention to fear and aggression.

Leonbergers are closely associated with family life and friendliness towards children. Marked friendliness to children is part of the breed standard, but adults must still manage every interaction. A large adolescent can knock a child over without meaning any harm, and the dog should always have a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children need to learn to leave the dog alone when it is eating, sleeping or moving away.

Compatibility with other dogs, cats and small pets depends on the individual, its past experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees a low prey drive or automatic tolerance. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free areas and escape routes, keep the dog under control and make meetings short and calm. Prevent chasing, and do not leave the animals together unsupervised until their behaviour is stable and predictable.

Some guarding instinct may be present, but the Leonberger is not intended to be a sharp guard dog. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, sudden noises, unfamiliar places and handling. This tells you more about future daily life than labels such as “gentle giant”.

## Training & Exercise

A Leonberger needs practical training from the first day, especially loose-lead walking, recall, cooperative handling and greeting people with all four feet on the ground. What looks charming in a small puppy can become a safety problem in an adult giant. Reward-based training gives the dog clear choices and should be the first option; harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary.

Exercise should build a capable body rather than follow a rigid time formula. There is no scientific evidence behind the familiar “five minutes per month of age” rule. Short walks, free play at the puppy’s own pace, gentle exposure to new environments and simple training all work well, interspersed with plenty of sleep. Stop when the puppy tires, loses coordination or begins to lag behind. Increase one thing at a time, and notice how the dog moves and recovers later that day and the following morning.

Avoid long distances at a pace set by the handler, as well as repeated jumping, hard stops and running beside a bicycle while the dog is growing. This does not mean keeping a puppy still. Varied movement at its own pace and gradually longer walks develop body awareness and confidence.

A healthy adult Leonberger benefits from daily walks and tasks that engage the mind. Scent work, tracking, everyday obedience and unhurried outings are often practical choices. Judge the right level by the dog’s fitness, the surface, the weather and recovery, not by a generic number of minutes. A dog that becomes stiff, reluctant or unusually tired needs a lighter workload and, if signs persist, a veterinary assessment.

## Health

The Leonberger’s size makes health and longevity important questions before a puppy is bought. In a British study published in 2024, median life expectancy was 10.0 years among 676 Leonbergers. That is a population estimate, not a forecast for an individual dog or a Swedish litter. Also ask about ages and causes of death among the parents, grandparents and previous offspring.

In Sweden, the Leonberger has a health programme under which both breeding dogs must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating for their puppies to be eligible for SKK registration. For this breed, radiographs are taken no earlier than 18 months. This must not be confused with the current RAS from the Svenska Leonbergerklubben, which is advisory and goes further. It recommends, among other things, a litter HD index of at least 100, not breeding from dogs graded HD D–E or ED 2–3, eye examination before first breeding and known behavioural status.

Ask the breeder to show the official result records and explain both parents’ results and the proposed pairing. Useful records include:

- official HD status, preferably an ED result as well, and current HD/ED indices;
- eye examination results and the complete record from BPH or another behavioural assessment;
- DNA results for LPN1, LPN2, LPPN3 and LEMP, interpreted correctly for each variant;
- known heart disease, tumours, neurological signs and early deaths among close relatives.

The LPN variants and LEMP are neurological diseases that can affect movement, muscle, coordination and sometimes breathing. The tests are not interchangeable and their inheritance differs: LPN2, for example, is dominant, while LPPN3 and LEMP are managed as recessive variants. Do not settle for “DNA tested”; ask to see the exact test and result and how the pairing follows current breed-club guidance.

The Leonberger is large and deep-chested, a body shape associated with an increased risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus. Unproductive retching, a rapidly swelling abdomen, restlessness, panting and difficulty lying down are emergency warning signs. Contact a vet immediately and set off for the clinic; do not wait to see whether the signs pass.

## History & Origins

The Leonberger was developed in southern Germany during the nineteenth century and takes its name from the town of Leonberg near Stuttgart. According to the FCI breed standard, town councillor Heinrich Essig crossed a black-and-white Newfoundland bitch with a dog from the hospice at the Great St Bernard Pass and later added a Pyrenean Mountain Dog. He aimed to create a large dog with a lion-like appearance, reflecting the lion on the town’s coat of arms.

The first dogs genuinely called Leonbergers were born in 1846. By the end of the nineteenth century, the breed was kept as a farm dog in Baden-Württemberg, where its guarding and draught abilities were valued. Breeding numbers fell sharply during both World Wars and the post-war years, but the population was rebuilt. The FCI gave the breed definitive recognition in 1955, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1979.

Today the Leonberger is principally a companion and family dog. Its history helps explain the size, weather-resistant coat and some watchfulness, but it does not predict how a particular dog will perform in work, water or family life.

## Living with the Breed

A Leonberger is best suited to someone who genuinely wants to share daily life with a very large dog and can make space, coat care, transport, training and healthcare costs work in practice. A garden is convenient but never replaces walks and company. Flat living can work if the dog has room to lie down and turn comfortably, but check the lift or stairs, noise from communal areas and neighbours, access to a cool resting place, and how an ill or injured dog would be transported.

A large car or another safe transport arrangement is often necessary. Beds, gates, harnesses and other equipment must cope with the dog’s size, while food, insurance and veterinary care will usually cost more than for a small dog. Plan who could safely handle the dog if you become ill or need to travel.

Time alone should be taught gradually and adjusted to the individual dog’s response. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, with puppies and older dogs going out more often. This describes how frequently a dog should be allowed outside, not how long every Leonberger is comfortable alone. Record brief practice sessions and take a step back if the dog paces, pants, barks persistently or cannot settle.

This is a poor choice for anyone wanting minimal shedding, low running costs or the option to postpone training until a problem appears. It can be a good fit for someone who values close cooperation, has time for early everyday training and is willing to adapt activity throughout the dog’s life. Meet several adult Leonbergers and ask about difficulties as well as strengths before deciding.

Leonberger

Leonberger Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Leonberger Club

German Leonberger Club

Societé Centrale Canine (France)

Large, strongly built “gentle giant” with lion‑coloured, water‑resistant double coat and black mask. Typically calm, devoted, and very good with children and other pets when well socialised. Needs regular exercise, kind training, thorough grooming, and careful health management.

Knatteberga's

Nellie Larsson

## Quick Facts

The Borzoi is a large Russian sighthound that combines a calm manner at home with a strong prey drive and a very fast gallop. In Sweden, the breed is kept primarily as a companion, but its original working style lives on in lure coursing, in which the dog chases an artificial lure under controlled conditions.

- The desired height at the withers is 75–85 cm for males and 68–78 cm for females.
- The breed is generally quiet indoors, independent and neutral to friendly towards people.
- Fast movement in the distance can trigger a chase; a lead, long line or fully enclosed area is therefore a central part of everyday life.
- The long, silky coat needs regular brushing and can shed heavily at certain times.
- The Borzoi is best suited to someone who appreciates a large, sensitive dog and does not expect to let it off the lead in open country.

## Appearance & Coat

The Borzoi is tall, lean and slightly elongated, yet should also be strong and well muscled. Its long, narrow head, deep chest, pronounced abdominal tuck and gently arched topline create the breed's distinctive outline. The bone should be strong without being coarse. The typical trot is long and effortless; when chasing, the dog shifts into a very fast gallop.

The coat is long, light and silky. It may be wavy or form large curls and is shorter on the head, ears and insides of the legs. Longer feathering appears on areas including the neck, chest, backs of the legs and tail. Many colours and colour combinations occur.

Expect to brush the coat a couple of times a week and more often during a moult. Work through to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the long feathering, where mats can hide. Check the nails, paws, ears and mouth at the same time. The coat does not need to be kept in show condition to remain healthy, but mats must not be allowed to pull on the skin. The Borzoi is not a good choice for anyone who wants a home free from dog hair.

## Temperament & Personality

The Borzoi is usually calm, intelligent and independent, with a keen awareness of movement around it. The breed standard describes its attitude towards people as neutral to friendly. Many individuals are reserved with strangers and bark little, but that is not the same as being fearful or detached from the family. A confident Borzoi can be deeply affectionate without constantly looking for instructions.

The breed's calm reputation does not guarantee that every individual will suit every child or dog. Early, considerate socialisation and the parents' temperaments matter greatly. A dog and young child should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left alone. Because a Borzoi is large and fast, an adult should also take responsibility for walks.

Many Borzois live happily with other dogs. A familiar cat in the home may also be compatible, particularly after a carefully managed introduction. This does not automatically make the dog reliable around fast-moving cats or other small animals outdoors. The Swedish breeding strategy for the breed highlights this precise distinction: an animal that belongs to the household may be treated very differently from one that runs away outside.

## Training & Exercise

Training works best as calm teamwork with clear rewards, short sessions and purposeful variety. The Borzoi is intelligent but was bred to make rapid decisions at a distance. Repetition without a clear purpose may therefore reduce engagement, whilst harsh methods risk both welfare and the relationship. Start early with attention to the handler, loose-lead walking, stopping at doors and gates, cooperative handling and a strong recall cue.

Recall matters, but it must not be the only safety plan. When a Borzoi sees possible prey, the decision to chase can happen in an instant. Use a lead or long line where wildlife may appear and choose a fully enclosed area for running freely. In Sweden, dogs may not run loose where wild animals may be present between 1 March and 20 August; during the rest of the year, owners must still prevent their dogs from driving or pursuing wildlife.

An adult Borzoi needs daily exercise combining walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, short training sessions and chances to stretch out in a secure setting. There is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, health, the terrain and its recovery. Lure coursing can provide a controlled outlet for breed-typical behaviour in a healthy, mature dog.

Puppies grow quickly and can reach high speeds at an early age. Increase walks and training gradually, and avoid pushing a puppy through long, repetitive or high-impact sessions. Free movement at its own pace on safe ground, sufficient rest and a well-planned feeding routine discussed with the breeder and vet provide a better foundation than trying to exhaust the puppy.

## Health

Sweden's breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Borzoi as a generally healthy breed and has not found a need for a dedicated health programme. That does not mean the breed is free from disease or that all lines are alike. Parts of the evidence come from owner surveys and older insurance data, so percentages should not be treated as an exact risk for an individual dog.

In the 2021 Swedish health survey, gastrointestinal problems were the most commonly reported category, although diagnoses were often missing. The survey also mentions osteosarcoma, a form of bone cancer, among cancers seen in the breed. Do not ask only for a standard set of test results. Ask the breeder to describe the health and longevity of the parents, siblings and older close relatives, including gastrointestinal problems, gastric dilatation-volvulus, cancer, sudden deaths and temperament.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus is an immediately life-threatening emergency that most often affects large dogs. Unproductive retching, restlessness, a rapidly swollen abdomen and severe pain require an immediate call to a vet and urgent travel to a clinic. Discuss preventive routines with your vet; the Swedish Kennel Club advises avoiding exercise immediately before feeding and for the first few hours afterwards.

A DNA test for degenerative myelopathy, DM, needs careful interpretation. The Swedish breeding strategy describes it as a risk test, not a diagnosis, and several other conditions can produce similar signs. A result should therefore be considered alongside family history and veterinary expertise, not used as a stand-alone prediction of the dog's future.

## History & Origins

The Borzoi was developed in Russia as a fast, strong and weather-resistant hunting dog. The official FCI history traces the breed's development from the fifteenth century and explains how several sighthound and local dog types contributed to the modern Borzoi. The dogs were used mainly for hare and fox and, to a lesser extent, wolf.

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the Russian nobility organised large hunts involving many sighthounds, scenthounds and riders. The work required a dog to detect movement, accelerate rapidly and act without constant human direction. This explains much of today's combination of calmness, independence and strong responses to visual stimuli.

In 1888, the Moscow Hunting Society adopted a common breed standard. Its main principles remain in the current standard. In Sweden, the Borzoi is now above all a companion dog; lure coursing allows it to use aspects of its natural movement and hunting pattern without live quarry.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Borzoi takes more planning than its calm indoor behaviour might first suggest. The home needs enough space for such a large dog to turn, lie fully stretched out and move without slipping. A flat can work if stairs, transport, coat care, toilet breaks and access to a secure place to run are properly managed, but a private garden replaces neither walks nor activity. An ordinary fence is not automatically a secure exercise area; assess its height, gates and weak points for the individual dog.

Time alone must be introduced gradually and assessed for each dog. A young puppy should not be left alone, whereas a securely trained adult may cope with a few hours. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, with puppies and older dogs going out more often. Plan around the dog's actual responses rather than assuming a quiet dog is always content.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can I provide safe daily exercise and regular opportunities to run in a fully enclosed area?
- Do I accept that the dog will often need to stay on a lead where wildlife or small animals may appear?
- Do I have the space, suitable car or other travel arrangement and budget for a very large dog?
- Can I care for a long coat and live with heavy shedding?
- Can the breeder describe temperament, health and longevity across several generations rather than simply show isolated test results?

For someone who values an independent partnership and can manage prey drive, size and exercise in practical ways, the Borzoi can be a calm, close family companion with breathtaking speed when given the right outlet.

Borzoi

The Borzoi Club

Svenska Vinthundklubben (Swedish Sighthound Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Verein für Deutsche Windhunde (German Sighthound Association)

The Borzoi is a tall, elegant Russian sighthound with a flowing, wavy coat and long, narrow head. Calm, sensitive, and catlike indoors, it is capable of sudden high-speed sprints outside and has a strong chase instinct, needing gentle training, socialisation, and secure exercise areas.

Basset Hound

The Basset Hound Club of Great Britain

Svenska Basset Hound Klubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Basset Hounds (Germany)

The Basset Hound is a heavy-boned, low scenthound with an exceptional nose, calm nature, and affectionate, sociable temperament. Independent and sometimes stubborn, it needs gentle, reward-based training, moderate daily exercise, secure fencing, and regular ear and skin care.

Heidruns Hall

Marco Vukovic

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

Sanna Lindberg

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Wheatma's

## Quick Facts

- The Chinese Crested Dog is a small companion dog with two coat varieties: hairless and powder puff. Both can be born in the same litter.
- The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard does not specify an official weight.
- The hairless variety has a crest on its head, so-called socks on its feet and a plume on its tail. The powder puff has a long, soft coat over its entire body.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful dog that should never be vicious. Even so, there are clear individual differences in sociability, curiosity, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- Skin or coat care, tooth brushing and protection suited to the weather need to be part of everyday life from the outset.
- When choosing a puppy, eye examination results, PLL status, dental status and the health and temperament of close relatives matter more than general promises about the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chinese Crested Dog is small, active and graceful without necessarily being fragile. The breed includes both the elegant deer type and the somewhat heavier cobby type. The body should be moderately long to long, with a level back and long, flowing, free movement. All colours and colour combinations are permitted.

The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard gives no weight, so the figure of 5.4 kg as an upper limit should not be treated as the modern ideal. Assess an adult dog by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead.

In the hairless variety, the body should be largely bare, with long hair on the head, feet and tail. The amount of body hair nevertheless varies between individuals. Ask to see the puppy before it has been trimmed, and ask the breeder to demonstrate how that particular dog's skin and furnishings should be cared for. The skin should be fine, soft and warm to the touch.

The powder puff has a thin undercoat covered by a veil of long, soft hair. The coat should be flowing rather than heavy or woolly. Part the coat and comb all the way down to the skin. Pay particular attention to early tangles wherever hair is dense or subject to friction. A weekly routine for bathing and checking the coat can be a starting point, but its condition should determine how often it needs detangling, washing and thorough drying.

Hairless skin needs to be checked for chafing, redness, spots and dryness. Young dogs can develop blackheads and spots during periods of hormonal change, although the extent varies greatly. Provide shade and suitable clothing when sun, wind, wet weather or cold make it necessary. A powder puff may also need weather protection because its fine coat provides relatively little warmth and is not particularly water-resistant. If the skin remains inflamed or itchy, or develops sores that do not heal, a vet should assess the cause and help with the choice of products.

Neither the hairless variety nor the powder puff is allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, and levels also vary between dogs of the same breed. A small amount of loose hair is therefore no guarantee for a family affected by allergies.

## Temperament & Personality

The Chinese Crested Dog should be cheerful and not vicious, but the breed encompasses many different personalities. In data from Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment, the dogs assessed appeared relatively confident, moderately curious and not generally vocal or aggressive. The same data show considerable variation in how dogs greet unfamiliar people, play and respond to unexpected events.

That is more useful than labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog”. One individual may seek a great deal of physical contact, while another may be more independent. Some greet visitors immediately; others prefer to observe first. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives cope with handling, new people, noise, settling and brief separations. Look for a puppy that can explore at its own pace and recover after something unexpected.

The breed can be alert and may bark when something happens, but that does not mean every dog is very vocal. In a home where noise carries easily, it is sensible to reward calm behaviour around doors, windows and sounds in communal areas from an early age. Find out whether the dog can also settle when nothing is happening. The ability to rest matters just as much as playfulness.

With children, the interaction matters more than the breed label. The dog's small size calls for extra care if children want to pick it up or carry it, but there is no general rule that the breed is suitable only for older children. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no well-founded time formula that suits every dog. A good day might include walks with time to sniff, play, a short skills session and calm recovery. An active individual may enjoy longer outings, agility, rally obedience, heelwork to music or tracking, while another may prefer less demanding activities.

Adjust duration and intensity to the dog's age, fitness, the weather, its movement and how well it recovers. A hairless dog that tenses up in the cold is not having a worthwhile walk simply because a target duration has been reached. Choose protection and surroundings to suit the conditions, and add indoor training when needed.

Reward-based training works well for teaching everyday skills. Start with recall, walking on a lead, settling in one place, leaving objects and stopping an activity when asked. Also practise cooperative handling of the mouth, feet, skin, coat and ears. This makes tooth brushing, bathing, clipping and veterinary visits less stressful.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy has to greet everyone. Instead, let it encounter different people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and environments at a distance where it can still eat, think and choose whether to make contact. If it becomes frightened, make the situation easier and give it time to recover. This builds greater confidence than forcing an encounter.

## Health

There are no breed-specific health tests that must be completed before a Chinese Crested Dog litter can be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, SKK. The breed club does, however, issue clear breeding recommendations. The distinction matters when assessing a litter: guidance can be highly relevant without being mandatory.

The breed club states that both parents should have an eye examination no earlier than 18 months of age, with a certificate no more than one year old at the time of mating. It also states that both should have a known DNA status for primary lens luxation, PLL. In addition, it recommends a known DNA status for prcd-PRA and a known patellar status established from 12 months of age. A patellar examination is therefore an important point to check, but it is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Veterinary auscultation of the heart before breeding is described as desirable, rather than as a formal requirement or recommendation in the club's “must” and “should” categories.

Ask to see the result itself, its date and the dog's identity. A DNA test applies only to the mutation analysed and does not replace a clinical eye examination. A healthy carrier of a simple recessive condition does not automatically have to be excluded from breeding, but should be mated to a genetically clear dog so that affected puppies are not born. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

Eye conditions highlighted in the breed include PLL, different forms of PRA or retinopathy, and dry eye. Ask about examination results and symptoms in older relatives as well. The breed club's health review also discusses heart conditions that tend to appear later in life and indications of back problems. These findings justify questions about older relatives and early heart murmurs or back symptoms; they do not mean that every dog will become ill.

Hairlessness and dentition are linked through a variant of the FOXI3 gene, which affects the development of both hair and teeth. Hairless dogs may therefore lack some permanent teeth or have unusually shaped, forward-pointing teeth. Powder puffs do not have this specific genetic effect and should normally have a complete scissor bite. Congenitally missing teeth are not the same as periodontal disease, but both varieties need daily tooth brushing to limit plaque and gum disease. Monitor the change from puppy to adult teeth, and ask a vet to assess retained deciduous teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty chewing.

In a large UK study, median life expectancy was 13.4 years among 928 Chinese Crested Dogs. The confidence interval for the median was 13.0–13.8 years. This result describes the study population, not how long an individual dog will live.

## History & Origins

The breed's early history is uncertain. China is listed as the country of origin and Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard, but it is not possible to trace an unbroken line from ancient Chinese hairless dogs to today's breed. Stories about dogs aboard trading ships, rat-catching and life during the Han dynasty should therefore be treated as theories rather than established facts.

The documented modern milestones are clearer. Chinese Crested Dogs were shown in the United States between 1885 and 1926, after which they were scarcely seen for nearly 50 years. Organised breeding in Britain was re-established with imports from the United States between 1965 and 1968. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1972, the first Swedish litter was born that year, and the dogs were registered with SKK in 1973. The Chinese Crested Club of Sweden was founded in 1990.

## Living with the Breed

The type of home does not by itself determine whether a Chinese Crested Dog will thrive. Both a flat and a house can work if the dog receives activity, rest and gradual training to be left alone. Assess the home in terms of noise, access to suitable places for walks and how easily the dog can get away from draughts, strong sunlight and commotion. A small body does not mean small needs.

A young puppy should not be left alone. Once it feels secure at home, training can begin with the puppy relaxing while you move behind a gate or leave the room very briefly. Increase the time only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can often cope alone for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. A camera can help reveal pacing, panting, barking or an inability to settle.

Cats and other dogs can live successfully with the breed, but low prey drive or trouble-free coexistence cannot be promised on the basis of breed alone. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing, and give the cat a secure escape route and separate resources. Adapt play to the dogs' sizes and communication styles. Small pets should be kept safely apart unless you can control the situation with confidence.

The right home needs to be ready for the differences between the two coat varieties, daily dental care and a dog that needs both closeness and the ability to feel secure on its own. Meet adult relatives if possible, see the puppy untrimmed and check documented health results. These checks say far more than promises that all Chinese Crested Dogs are quiet, allergy-friendly or automatically easy family pets.

Chinese Crested Dog

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Chinese Crested Dog is a fine‑boned toy breed, either hairless with silky crest and furnishings or Powder Puff with a soft full coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, they train well with gentle methods, need protection and care for skin or coat, and moderate daily exercise.

Charloth Holmberg

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

## Quick Facts

The Jämthund is a large Swedish hunting spitz, bred primarily to find elk and hold the animal in place by barking at bay. It is a courageous, independent working dog with exceptional stamina — not a breed developed chiefly for life as a companion.

- **Origin:** Sweden
- **Breed group:** Spitz and primitive types
- **Purpose:** Hunting dog that holds game at bay, used mainly for elk hunting
- **Height at the withers:** 57–65 cm for males and 52–60 cm for females
- **Coat:** Dense double coat in lighter or darker shades of grey
- **Typical traits:** Strong hunting drive, stamina, courage, independence and a willingness to co-operate
- **Best suited to:** A hunter or active home able to provide a genuine outlet for the breed's hunting instincts

A Jämthund can be calm and affectionate at home when its needs are met, but everyday exercise is not always a substitute for the work it was bred to do. The key question before buying one is not simply whether you enjoy being outdoors, but whether you can provide a meaningful role for an independent hunting dog with exceptional stamina.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jämthund is a large, strong and agile spitz with a rectangular outline. Its body should be slightly longer than its height at the withers without appearing heavy or overlong. Males stand 57–65 cm, with 61 cm as the ideal, while females stand 52–60 cm, with 56 cm as the ideal. The breed standard gives no set weight, so body condition and proportion are more useful guides than a general weight range.

The head is long, with upright ears and an alert expression. The tail is set high and carried loosely curled in a low arc against the thigh, rather than tightly curled over the back.

The coat consists of fairly close-lying guard hairs and a short, soft, light-coloured undercoat. The colour is a darker or lighter grey. Light grey or cream markings appear on areas including the muzzle, cheeks, throat, chest, belly, legs and underside of the tail.

Coat care is usually straightforward. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it and brush the coat thoroughly during shedding periods. After work in woodland or rough ground, check the paws, claws, skin and coat for injuries, debris and ticks. The frequency depends on the season and how the dog is used, not on a fixed weekly timetable.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jämthund should be courageous and energetic, yet calm and steady. While hunting, it works independently at a distance, searches for game and has to make its own decisions. At the same time, it should remain in contact with its handler and be willing to co-operate. This combination helps explain why the breed often learns quickly but does not necessarily follow instructions mechanically.

Training works best when it is clear, consistent and based on rewards. Harsh methods risk damaging trust without producing better teamwork. Reward attention, recall and calm choices from the outset, and practise the same skills in the environments where they will actually be needed.

Barking is a working tool. The Jämthund has been bred to mark game with sustained barking while holding it at bay, and that instinct can also be noticeable in daily life. This does not mean every dog will be noisy indoors, but anyone living in a building with thin walls should take the issue seriously and teach calm behaviour around doors, visitors and activity outside the home.

Individual dogs and breeding lines vary. Ask the breeder how the parents behave while hunting, at rest, around people and in unfamiliar surroundings. Hunting results reveal a great deal about working ability, but they do not tell you everything about a dog's behaviour at home.

## Training & Exercise

A Jämthund needs more than ordinary lead walks: it needs fitness work, opportunities to use its nose, co-operation with its handler and tasks that engage its hunting drive. There is no official daily quota of hours or kilometres that suits every dog. The right level depends on age, fitness, health, season and the demands of the work.

For an adult, a good routine combines regular physical conditioning with search, tracking and handler-focus exercises. Hunting and hunting training are the breed's most natural outlets. Outside the hunting season, planned fitness work and mentally demanding tasks are still needed, alongside rest and recovery. A dog that has worked for a long time over difficult ground may need an easier day afterwards even if it still appears keen to continue.

Recall is important, but it does not remove the hunting instinct. Build it gradually using a long line and carefully chosen distractions, and do not let the dog off lead where a wide search could put wildlife, traffic or the dog itself at risk. A GPS tracker is a safety aid during hunting, not a substitute for basic training and sound judgement.

A puppy should be allowed to explore, play, develop body awareness and learn to follow its handler in short, positive sessions. Increase distance and effort gradually according to the individual dog's development. The breed's specific breeding strategy cautions against demanding hunting training before the dog is fully developed. Avoid chasing early results through long, repetitive or forced sessions. A vet or canine physiotherapist can help with a plan if there are concerns about the growing dog's movement or joints.

## Health

The Jämthund is generally regarded as a healthy, functional breed, but hip dysplasia and epilepsy do occur. The breed's specific breeding strategy also highlights diabetes and the eye disease progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA. A thorough check before buying a puppy should therefore cover both recorded screening results and the health history of close relatives.

For Jämthund litters to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed uses an HD index, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a parental average above 100. Dogs graded D or E for hip dysplasia may not be used for breeding under the breed's index programme.

The breed's specific breeding recommendations go further: the parents should have hips graded A or B, elbows clear of dysplasia, an eye examination no more than twelve months old and a qualification from an off-lead hunting trial for elk. These recommendations must be distinguished from the specific registration conditions. Elbow and eye results and hunting qualifications are nevertheless valuable when comparing litters.

Ask the breeder about:

- the parents' hip and elbow results and current hip indices
- the date and result of their most recent eye examination
- epilepsy, diabetes and PRA in parents, siblings and previous offspring
- hunting-trial results and how the dogs work in practice
- the physical and behavioural development of previous offspring

Epilepsy and diabetes cannot be assessed through a single simple health certificate. Open information about the wider family is therefore particularly valuable. Poor vision in dim light, recurring seizures, excessive thirst or a marked increase in urination should be assessed by a vet, but these signs can have several causes and should not be self-diagnosed.

## History & Origins

The Jämthund is a Swedish breed from the northern coniferous forest tradition of large hunting spitzes. It was officially recognised as a separate breed in 1946. Before then, the larger Jämthund type and the smaller Norwegian Elkhound Grey were judged within the same breed, which helps explain why the Jämthund received its own standard relatively late.

Older sources describe large, wolf-like hunting dogs in Jämtland and neighbouring regions, but an unbroken line from ancient dogs to today's registered breed cannot be proven. What is clear is that the modern Jämthund has been shaped through purposeful breeding for work in Nordic forests.

Elk hunting has been the breed's dominant role. The dog searches independently, works to keep the elk in one place and then marks its position by barking at bay so that the handler can approach. The Jämthund has also been used to hunt species including bear and wild boar, but its identity and breeding aims remain most closely tied to its work as an elk dog that holds game at bay.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Jämthund works best when its work, recovery and home routine are planned as a whole. A large garden is useful but cannot replace training or meaningful activity. Flat living is not impossible, but it requires ready access to suitable countryside, practical storage for equipment, attention to noise and a routine that gets the dog outdoors frequently.

The breed can live successfully in a family with children, but this is not automatic. An adult should always supervise interactions between a dog and young children, take responsibility for exercise and give the dog a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Even a friendly, strong and enthusiastic youngster can accidentally knock over a small child.

A strong hunting drive affects life with other animals. A Jämthund introduced calmly and carefully to a cat may learn to live alongside it, but this does not guarantee the same response to unfamiliar cats outdoors. Small pets need to be kept safely separate in a way that does not depend on obedience. Reactions to other dogs depend on the individual, its experience and the way introductions are handled; blanket claims that one sex will always or never get along are too simplistic.

Time alone should be built up gradually once the dog feels secure in its home. Adult dogs vary greatly in how readily they relax when left, and a puppy cannot be treated like a fully trained adult. Plan for supervision, toilet breaks and company in daily life rather than assuming that a great deal of exercise will automatically make the dog content with long periods alone.

Choose a breeder and litter for the life you can genuinely provide. Ask to see documented health results, enquire about illness in the family and find out how the parents hunt and behave at home. For someone seeking an enduring hunting partner and who enjoys close teamwork with an independent dog, the Jämthund can be an excellent fit. Someone looking mainly for an easy-going companion will find breeds with much more suitable foundations.

Jämthund

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Member Countries

The Jämthund is a large, wolf‑like Scandinavian spitz bred for elk hunting in harsh Nordic forests. It has a thick grey double coat, curled tail, and calm, loyal nature. Intelligent and independent, it needs experienced handling, rigorous daily exercise, and regular mental work.

Stina Myrevik

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

So Magic's

## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Hedgölets

Celine Jönsson Oldstrand

## Quick Facts

The Västgötaspets is a low-set Swedish herding dog with plenty of energy, an inclination to use its voice and an alert manner. It may be small, but it was built to work. The breed belongs to FCI Group 5 and was traditionally used to herd cattle and work on farms.

- **Size:** the ideal height is 33 cm for dogs and 31 cm for bitches. The breed standard permits 32–35 cm for dogs and 30–33 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** the official breed standard gives no weight. The Swedish Kennel Club uses 9–15 kg as a broad guide, but an individual dog's build, body condition and proportions are more useful than a fixed target weight.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity and mentally engaging tasks every day, but no official hourly quota will suit every individual.
- **Temperament:** the ideal is an alert, energetic and boldly lively dog. Sociability, vocal behaviour and the ability to settle vary between individuals.
- **Coat:** a semi-short, harsh outer coat over a dense, soft undercoat. It sheds and needs extra brushing during moulting periods.
- **Tail:** both a long tail and every form of natural bobtail are accepted. The standard does not prescribe how the tail should be carried.
- **Key health issue:** Swedish Vallhund retinopathy is an inherited retinal disease with a variable age of onset and course. Eye examination and DNA test results provide different information and should be considered together.

The Västgötaspets and the Welsh corgi are separate breeds. Their long body shape is similar, but claims of a proven relationship through the Vikings go beyond the available evidence.

## Appearance & Coat

The Västgötaspets should be low-set without being excessively close to the ground, and its body should appear powerful yet mobile. The ratio of height at the withers to body length is 2:3. The distance from the bottom of the chest to the ground should be at least one-third of the dog's height. These measurements distinguish the correct breed outline from an overly heavy or exaggeratedly low body.

The head is fairly long and tapers towards the muzzle. Pointed, erect and mobile ears contribute to the alert expression. The back should be level, the loin short and strong, and the movement sound, parallel and ground-covering.

The tail may be long or naturally short, in several different lengths. Neither type is more correct, and there is no prescribed tail carriage. Check the registered tail designation rather than drawing conclusions from a photograph. A natural bobtail is not the same as a docked tail.

The coat consists of a very dense, soft undercoat and a semi-short, harsh outer coat lying close to the body. It is shorter on the head and front of the legs and may be slightly longer on the neck, chest and backs of the legs. Brush through the coat during moulting periods to remove loose undercoat. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it; a fixed bathing timetable rarely adds anything useful.

Accepted base colours are grey, greyish brown, greyish yellow, reddish yellow and reddish brown. Lighter areas occur on the muzzle, cheeks, throat, underside and lower legs, while darker guard hairs should appear across the back, neck and sides. A lighter harness marking over the shoulders is desirable. White markings are allowed, but only to a limited extent. Colour and markings do not alter the dog's everyday needs.

## Temperament & Personality

The Västgötaspets is first and foremost attentive and ready to act. The breed standard describes alertness, energy and bold liveliness, but it does not promise that every individual will be easy with all people, animals and environments. Inheritance, early experience, daily life and training all help shape the outcome.

Barking is not a minor detail in this breed. In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis, about 40 per cent of participating dogs barked or whined during parts of the assessment in which vocalising was not expected. The data covered 218 Swedish-born dogs born in 2003–2018, only 6.2 per cent of the relevant population, so the figure describes the participants rather than every Västgötaspets. Even so, it shows why a prospective owner should ask how the parents react to noises at the door, visitors and activity outside the home.

The same BPH material paints a broadly confident and energetic picture, with few threatening reactions when meeting an ordinary stranger. Responses varied more when an unusually dressed person approached. BPH should therefore be used to guide questions about a litter's parents and relatives, not as a guarantee about a puppy.

Historically, the Västgötaspets drove cattle by working close to their bodies, using both its voice and nips at the animals' hind legs. This does not mean that every individual will automatically herd or nip people. In breed-club tests conducted in 1994–2013, 52 per cent of the dogs tested were judged to have good, very good or excellent herding aptitude, while 48 per cent were assessed as having little or none. Train the behaviour your dog actually displays rather than working from a breed stereotype.

## Training & Exercise

The Västgötaspets needs to move, use its nose and solve problems every day. Brisk walks, woodland outings, tracking, scent work, obedience, herding and other dog sports can all play a part, but a fulfilling routine does not have to be a competition schedule. Variety and cooperation matter more than reaching a set number of minutes.

Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, health and previous experience. After suitable activity, an adult dog should recover, settle at home and maintain a stable body condition and sound movement. If the dog becomes increasingly over-aroused, stiff, reluctant to move or unable to rest, the routine needs adjusting. More exercise is not always the answer; learning to settle, sleep and clear breaks matter too.

Start reward-based training for recall, walking calmly on a lead, handling and a cue to stop barking from an early age. Reward moments when the dog chooses to settle of its own accord. Simply intervening once barking is already intense rarely teaches the dog what to do instead. While building the new habit, also reduce avoidable triggers such as an unrestricted view of a busy entrance.

Do not calculate a puppy's exercise using the rule of five minutes per month of age; there is no scientific evidence for that general formula. Instead, let the puppy explore safe surfaces at its own pace, alternate short experiences with rest and increase duration and difficulty gradually. Do not push a tired puppy to continue. Delay repetitive, high-impact activity until its body and technique are ready, while remembering that normal, controlled movement builds strength, balance and confidence.

## Health

The principal breed-specific health issue to understand is Swedish Vallhund retinopathy, a progressive disease of the retina. Changes may begin without any noticeable loss of vision. In other dogs, the condition progresses to difficulty seeing in low light and later to impaired daytime vision. Age of onset and rate of progression vary, even between closely related dogs, so it is inaccurate to say that the disease is always mild or always leads to blindness.

Research has found a strong association between the retinopathy and a LINE-1 insertion in the MERTK gene. It should not be confused with BEST1-related canine multifocal retinopathy; BEST1 was one of several known genes that did not explain the Västgötaspets disease in the earlier study. The later MERTK study describes the insertion as a strong candidate for the disease-causing mutation, while leaving parts of the functional mechanism unresolved.

A DNA result applies to the genetic variant that was tested. An eye examination shows what the dog's eyes looked like at a particular point in time. Ask which test was performed, which laboratory analysed it, the parents' exact results and when they were last examined by an ophthalmologist. Ask to see the registered results rather than accepting the phrase “tested for everything”.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules impose no breed-specific requirement for hip, elbow or eye examination results in the Västgötaspets. That does not make such information irrelevant. The breed club's 2019 breeding strategy recommends known hip status and an estimated mean hip index of at least 100 for the litter. Under the club's current puppy-referral rules, the litter's inbreeding coefficient must be stated; a current hip index must be listed when available, while hip results and the year of the eye examination may be shown. Ask for the actual results and how the breeder has weighed them, not merely whether the formal minimum has been met.

Seek veterinary advice if the dog starts hesitating in the dark, collides with objects, develops changes to its eyes, or shows pain, stiffness or an altered gait. A low body shape is not a diagnosis in itself, and old survey figures from a limited group should not be turned into a firm prognosis for a puppy.

## History & Origins

The modern history of the Västgötaspets is well documented from the early 1940s. Count Björn von Rosen drew attention to the short-legged spitz type he remembered from Västergötland. Together with headteacher Karl-Gustaf Zetterstén, he surveyed the remaining dogs, particularly on the Vara plains. Zetterstén went on to lead most of the practical breeding work.

The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the breed as the Swedish Vallhund in 1943. It was given the name Västgötaspets in 1953. The dogs' herding ability was preserved while the type became more consistent.

Further back, the story is less certain. The resemblance to the Cardigan and Pembroke Welsh corgis has led to theories that dogs were transported between Sweden and Britain during the Viking Age. The official breed standard does not establish the direction of any such connection, and modern cynology regards the breed's Swedish origin as settled. It is therefore reasonable to describe it as Swedish and its modern recovery as documented, but not to present a particular Viking journey or a definite corgi relationship as fact.

## Living with the Breed

The Västgötaspets can live successfully in a house or flat if its routine provides enough activity, rest and help with managing noise. The size of the home matters less than whether barking disturbs neighbours, the dog can settle and the owner can offer meaningful daily activity. In a building with poor sound insulation, have a clear plan for door noises, watching from windows and time alone from the outset.

Adults must supervise interactions with children. Teach children to leave the dog alone when it is eating, sleeping or choosing to withdraw, and give the dog an undisturbed resting place. If it tries to control running children by barking or nipping, interrupt the behaviour calmly and redirect it to a trained alternative. This is neither something a child should tolerate nor behaviour that every Västgötaspets will display.

Living with a cat or other dogs depends on the individuals and the introduction. Begin with scent exchange and separation, give the cat safe escape routes and keep the dog under control during the first meetings. Allow more freedom only when both animals can remain calm. Ask how the puppy and its parents behave around other animals; the breed name is not a substitute for that information.

Time alone must be introduced gradually through brief, uneventful absences. There is no fixed duration that every adult Västgötaspets can manage, and a dog that barks or becomes distressed when left needs a slower plan. A camera can show whether the dog is genuinely resting, pacing, vocalising or trying to escape.

When choosing a puppy, compare more than appearance and titles. Ask for the parents' registered eye and hip information, the exact DNA result for retinopathy when one is cited, the litter's inbreeding coefficient and relevant temperament information. Ideally, meet the dam and ask specific questions about vocal behaviour, recovery after excitement, unfamiliar people and daily life with other animals. A good match is not simply a typical-looking dog, but an individual whose energy, voice and needs fit the life you can genuinely provide.

Västgötaspets

The German Kennel Club (VDH)

The Västgötaspets is a small, sturdy Swedish herding dog with a foxlike look, dense double coat and easy grooming. Energetic, vocal and intelligent, it bonds closely with active families, needs consistent positive training, daily exercise and mental stimulation, and is generally healthy.

Skånetorpets

Fatima Norell

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

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