## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Kambiones

Belgian Griffon

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy toy dog from Brussels with a humanlike “monkey face” and big eyes. Rough, wiry coat in black or black and tan. Deeply attached, sensitive, and people focused, they are lively, intelligent, alert watchdogs who thrive on gentle training, company, and regular grooming.

## Quick Facts

The Brussels Griffon is a small Belgian companion dog with a rough red coat, a short muzzle and an alert expression. The breed standard gives a weight of 3.5–6 kg but no height; assess proportions, movement and function rather than relying on an uncertain figure in centimetres.

- **Origin and purpose:** Belgium; a companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Weight:** 3.5–6 kg under the breed standard. No official height is specified.
- **Coat:** Rough with an undercoat, naturally harsh and slightly wavy. The colour is red or reddish; a little black on the muzzle is allowed.
- **Temperament:** The ideal is a balanced, alert and attentive dog that is neither timid nor aggressive. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as active, friendly and quick to learn, but every dog must be assessed individually.
- **Key health checks:** The breed club recommends patella and eye examinations for breeding dogs. Results from RFG breathing assessments have been centrally recorded since May 2026, but the assessment is not currently required before breeding.

The Brussels Griffon, Belgian Griffon and Petit Brabançon are three separate breeds with a shared origin which the Swedish Kennel Club permits to be bred to one another. That does not make a black rough-coated Belgian Griffon or a smooth-coated Petit Brabançon a coat variety of the Brussels Griffon.

## Appearance & Coat

The Brussels Griffon should be small, sturdy and nearly square, with good bone while still moving lightly. The head is large in relation to the body, the muzzle is very short and broad, and the lower jaw projects beyond the upper jaw. A tongue that remains visible when the mouth is closed is not part of a correct expression.

The coat distinguishes the breed from its two close relatives. The Brussels Griffon has a rough coat with an undercoat. It should feel naturally harsh, may be slightly wavy but not curly, and forms a beard, moustache and longer eyebrows. The colour is red or reddish, with a little black hair allowed on the muzzle. A rough-coated black or black-and-tan dog is a Belgian Griffon, while the Petit Brabançon is smooth-coated and may have the colours accepted for both Griffon breeds.

The rough coat needs trimming to remove dead hair and preserve its texture. The Swedish Kennel Club gives two to four trims a year as a guide, not a timetable for every dog. The condition of the coat, the amount of dead hair and any tangles determine when attention is needed. Check the beard and face for food, dirt and damp as well.

Start early with brief, calm grooming sessions on a non-slip surface. The dog needs to accept combing, examination of the paws and face, and standing still without fear.

## Temperament & Personality

A Brussels Griffon should be alert, attentive and confident while remaining a close companion dog. The breed standard describes a balanced and devoted dog that should be neither timid nor aggressive. The Swedish Kennel Club also highlights affection, friendliness, curiosity, an ability to learn and a mind of its own.

This is a breed ideal, not a guarantee. Reactions to strangers, sounds, handling and frustration are influenced by inheritance, experience and the situation. Ask to meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look for curiosity without prolonged over-excitement and an ability to recover after a surprise.

Labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog” tell you too little about the individual. A sociable dog may seek closeness yet still rest in its own space; another may need more support with separation or unfamiliar people. Ask how the parents and previous offspring behave in everyday life.

Barking depends on the dog and its environment. An alert dog may react to doors, voices and movement beyond a window, but the breed cannot be guaranteed either quiet or noisy. Reward calm behaviour after a sound and check that the dog can settle again.

## Training & Exercise

The Brussels Griffon needs daily movement, scent work and learning, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, time to investigate smells, short training sessions, play and undisturbed rest. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, body condition and weather, and above all to the way the dog breathes and recovers.

The breed learns readily but may have definite ideas of its own. Kind, enjoyable methods that reward the desired behaviour provide a better foundation than harsh correction. Give particular attention to recall, loose-lead walking, releasing objects, settling in a chosen place and willingly taking part in coat, nail, mouth and eye checks. Keep sessions short enough to retain engagement and raise the difficulty gradually.

Distance alone does not define a worthwhile walk. A food search, a simple scent trail or a new problem can provide activity without strenuous physical exercise. The breed is sturdy for its size, but the Swedish Kennel Club advises against demands beyond the capacity of a small dog. Puppies, fit adults and older dogs need different plans.

The short muzzle makes breathing part of every exercise decision. Choose cooler times on hot days, keep the dog in healthy body condition and stop before panting becomes heavy or the usual movement changes. Marked breathing noise, slow recovery or reluctance to move should not be dismissed as normal for the breed.

## Health

The most relevant breed-specific health checks concern the patellae, eyes and respiratory function. A puppy buyer needs to distinguish between a recommendation, a centrally recorded result and a binding requirement, then verify the individual dog’s identity, examination date and result.

The breed club recommends patella and eye examinations for breeding dogs. The breed-specific breeding strategy gives patella examination before a first mating and an eye examination within a year before mating as guidelines. This does not mean that the breed has a compulsory health programme. Ask the breeder to show the results for both parents and discuss the knees and eyes of close relatives; one certificate cannot describe an entire family.

The short skull and muzzle increase the risk of both breathing problems and eye injury. In Sweden, Brussels Griffon RFG results have been centrally recorded since May 2026. RFG is a standardised assessment in which a veterinarian checks the dog’s identity, body condition and nostrils, listens before exercise and assesses breathing after a brief movement test. For the Brussels Griffon, RFG is not currently required before breeding. A result provides useful information about the dog examined but does not replace observation of everyday breathing or knowledge of relatives.

A dog with a well-functioning upper airway breathes quietly. Clear snoring or snorting while awake, laboured inhalation, slow recovery or poor heat tolerance warrants veterinary assessment. Signs may only appear during activity. A bluish tongue or gums, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness are emergency warning signs.

The large eyes and short head shape make careful eye checks important. Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, holds an eye closed, rubs it with a paw, develops redness or has eye discharge. Eye pain is treated as urgent because conditions including corneal ulcers can deteriorate quickly.

Syringomyelia occurs in the breed and can cause severe pain, but its prevalence in Sweden is unknown. Unexplained pain, repeated frantic scratching without an obvious skin cause or altered movement should be investigated by a vet. Percentages from selected or referred groups should not be treated as a reliable prevalence for the whole Swedish breed population.

Before buying, ask for:

- patella and eye results for both parents, including identity and date,
- any RFG result and an explanation of what that particular grade means,
- an opportunity to see parents or adult relatives breathing at rest and after moderate movement,
- frank information about eye injuries, breathing difficulties, signs of pain and neurological symptoms in the family.

## History & Origins

The documented origin of the Brussels Griffon lies in a small rough-coated type called the smousje, long found around Brussels. During the nineteenth century, the red King Charles Spaniel and Pug were used in the development of the present breed type.

The breed standard cautiously records that the alert little dogs were said to guard carriages and keep stables free of rodents. That account should retain its historical qualification; it is not proof that every modern Brussels Griffon has a particular guarding or hunting behaviour.

The first Brussels Griffons entered in the Belgian stud book in 1883 were named Topsy and Foxine. Around 1900 the breeds became more popular, helped in part by Queen Marie-Henriette’s interest, and exports introduced them beyond Belgium.

Their shared history explains why the Brussels Griffon, Belgian Griffon and Petit Brabançon are often discussed together. The modern standard nevertheless separates them clearly by coat and colour: the Brussels Griffon is the rough-coated red breed.

## Living with the Breed

The Brussels Griffon can live in a flat or a house if it receives daily activity, quiet rest and training suited to the individual. Small size does not solve the practicalities by itself. In a building where sound carries, the ability to settle after noises matters, and during warm weather both the home and walks need to allow the dog to stay cool.

With children, adult supervision matters more than a broad verdict about the breed. A Brussels Griffon is sturdy for its size but is still a small dog that can be injured by a fall, squeezing or rough lifting. Teach children to let the dog approach, not to disturb it while eating or sleeping, and to respect its resting place. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present.

There is no guarantee that a Brussels Griffon will enjoy the company of every dog or cat. Give a cat separate escape routes, begin with scent exchange and meetings through a gate, keep the dog under control and reward calm behaviour. Interrupt chasing and take a step back if either animal becomes tense. Two dogs need separate feeding and resting areas.

Alone-time training should be gradual, not an abrupt full working day. Begin once the puppy or adult dog feels secure at home, create very brief separations and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Progress varies between individuals. Whining, barking, pacing, panting or an inability to rest shows that training has moved too quickly and needs to be made easier.

When choosing a puppy or adult, check more than colour and an appealing expression. Confirm that the dog is registered as a Brussels Griffon, observe how adult relatives breathe and move, ask for patella, eye and any RFG results, and discuss how the family responds to handling, sounds and brief separations. A sound match rests on documented health information and observable everyday behaviour, not promises said to apply to every member of the breed.

Brussels Griffon

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Deutscher Club für Griffon Bruxellois (Germany)

Brussels Griffons are small, sturdy toy dogs with humanlike, bearded faces and large dark eyes. Deeply attached and “velcro-like,” they thrive on close company, gentle, reward-based training, and moderate daily exercise. Coats may be rough or smooth in rich red, black, or black and tan.

## Quick Facts

The Petit Brabançon is a small Belgian companion dog that tends to be alert, affectionate and keen to be involved in whatever is happening. It belongs to FCI Group 9 and is the smooth-coated member of the three closely related Belgian griffon breeds. The other two are the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois.

- **Country of origin:** Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog
- **Weight in the breed standard:** 3.5–6 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard does not specify a height
- **Coat:** short, harsh and glossy; no more than 2 cm long
- **Colours:** red, black, black and tan, or a mixture of black and red, with a dark mask
- **Typical traits:** attentive, active, trainable, friendly and close to its owner
- **Key health areas:** breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of neurological pain

The three griffon breeds share the same background and, according to the Swedish Kennel Club, may be mated to one another. The Petit Brabançon is distinguished chiefly by its smooth coat, while the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois are rough-coated. The breeds are registered separately.

The official weight is a more reliable guide than the height figures commonly found online. The breed standard gives a weight of 3.5–6 kg but no range for height at the withers. Two adult dogs can therefore differ in height while both remaining entirely typical of the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Petit Brabançon should be small, compact and almost square, with good bone but without heavy movement. Its body length should be approximately equal to its height at the withers. The short, broad head, pronounced undershot bite and large, dark eyes create the breed's characteristic expression.

Breed type should not be confused with exaggeration. The nostrils should be well open, the eyes large but never protruding, and the lower jaw broad. Neither the tongue nor teeth should show when the mouth is closed. When assessing a dog, give priority to free breathing, open nostrils and healthy eyes rather than the flattest possible face.

The coat is harsh, glossy and no more than 2 cm long. It does not require trimming. Brush and bathe as needed, for example when loose hair or dirt needs removing.

Accepted colours are red, black, black and tan, and a mixture of black and red. A dark mask is part of the desired appearance; in older dogs, the mask may be grey or grey-flecked.

The short coat makes grooming straightforward, but it does not make the breed allergy-free. There are no allergy-free dog breeds, and allergen levels vary between individual dogs, even within the same litter. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore assess their reaction to the particular dog rather than choosing on coat length alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Petit Brabançon is fundamentally an attentive companion that likes to take part in family life. The breed standard describes the Belgian griffons as intelligent, balanced and alert, while the Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as active, trainable, affectionate and friendly.

That does not mean every individual will react in the same way. Genetics, early environment, socialisation, training and health all influence how confident, sociable and easy-going a dog becomes. An adult dog should be able to settle after activity and meet people without persistent fear or aggression. When visiting a litter, try to meet the dam and ask how close relatives cope with everyday life.

The breed's attentiveness can be useful in focus exercises, everyday obedience and simple scent games. Reward calm behaviour from the outset and provide an undisturbed resting place so the dog learns to switch off.

A Petit Brabançon can suit either an experienced owner or a well-prepared first-time owner, but being small does not make the dog self-sufficient. It needs kind, consistent training, daily care and an owner who takes breathing and eye health seriously. Choose the individual dog and breeder for their fit with your life, not on promises that the breed is always easy.

## Training & Exercise

The Petit Brabançon needs daily movement, mental stimulation and time to recover, but no single walk duration is right for every dog. A healthy individual may enjoy walks, exposure to different environments, play, everyday training and scent work. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, temperature and, above all, how the dog breathes and recovers.

Short, clear training sessions often suit a small, quick-learning companion dog. Reward the behaviour you want, break new skills into manageable steps and increase the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable. Gradually accustom the dog to having its mouth and face examined too; this makes toothbrushing and eye checks easier.

The short muzzle means breathing must determine how hard the dog works. Slow down or stop if breathing noise clearly increases, the dog struggles for air, fails to recover normally or appears unable to regulate its temperature. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or marked breathing difficulty are emergency warning signs that require veterinary care.

Take particular care in hot, humid weather. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, offer water and allow the dog to rest before it becomes distressed. A dog that repeatedly cannot manage an ordinary walk or play because of its breathing needs to be examined; this should not be dismissed as normal for a short-nosed breed.

A puppy should not follow the same exercise plan as an adult. Instead, let its body develop through varied, self-paced movement, brief opportunities to explore and plenty of rest. Increase duration and difficulty gradually, guided by the puppy's movement, breathing and recovery.

## Health

The main health checks for a Petit Brabançon concern breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of pain involving the nervous system. The presence of a problem in the breed does not mean every dog is affected; the individual dog's examination results and physical function are what matter.

The breed is short-nosed, which can increase the risk of BOAS — breathing difficulty caused by narrowed upper airways. The Swedish Kennel Club includes the breed in its specific instructions concerning head shape and breathing. Quiet, unrestricted breathing at rest, well-opened nostrils and normal recovery after movement are therefore useful practical checks. Snoring-like sounds while awake, increased breathing effort, poor stamina or heat intolerance should not be regarded as charming breed traits.

The RFG Scheme is a veterinary examination that assesses breathing before and after a three-minute exercise test. Among other things, the vet examines nostril shape, listens to the heart and lungs, and grades signs of BOAS from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected. Grade 1 denotes mild signs that do not affect performance, while grades 2 and 3 indicate moderate and severe clinical impact respectively.

Since May 2026, RFG results for the Petit Brabançon can be recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. An official result is registered from 24 months of age; an earlier result is marked as preliminary. For the Petit Brabançon, central registration does not currently mean that an RFG test is compulsory before breeding. Rules can change, so always check the current information from the Swedish Kennel Club. A puppy buyer can ask whether the parents have been tested, which grades they received and how they cope with ordinary activity and warm weather.

Kneecap problems and certain eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed's Swedish breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs be examined for patellar luxation before their first mating and have an eye examination within a year before mating. Ask to see registered results rather than accepting a general assurance that the dogs are healthy. Also ask about corneal injuries and other eye problems in close relatives, because the head shape can leave the eyes more exposed.

Syringomyelia occurs in the breed and can cause severe pain, but its prevalence among Swedish dogs is unknown. Frantic scratching, unusual movement or unexplained pain, for example when walking on a lead, can justify a neurological veterinary assessment. These signs can have several causes and should not be used to diagnose the dog at home.

Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, blinks repeatedly, rubs an eye, develops a watery eye or appears to be in pain. Breathing distress, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require emergency help. Early treatment is particularly important when the eyes are large and the muzzle is very short.

## History & Origins

The Petit Brabançon was developed in Belgium from the same stock as the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois. The breed standard traces all three to a small, rough-coated type found around Brussels known as the Smousje. These dogs worked around stables, where they helped control rodents and were said to guard carriages.

During the 1800s, crosses with dogs including the Pug and red King Charles Spaniel shaped the modern griffon type. These crosses contributed the smooth black coat and consolidated the breed type. The first griffons were entered in the Belgian stud book in 1883, and the small dogs later became valued as companions beyond Belgium.

The smooth-coated variety became known as the Petit Brabançon. Today, the three griffons have separate FCI numbers and are distinguished mainly by coat and colour, but their shared origin remains evident in both the breed standard and Swedish breeding practice. Their history explains the relationship; it cannot predict the temperament or health of an individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Petit Brabançon is best suited to someone who wants a small companion that takes an active part in daily life and can adapt routines to the individual dog's breathing, activity level and need for company. It can live well in a flat if it has regular opportunities to toilet, suitable activity, quiet recovery time and training to remain calm around sounds in the hallway and outside the door.

Adult supervision is essential around children. A dog this small should not be picked up, chased or disturbed while eating or resting. Give the dog a safe place of its own and teach the child to wait until the dog chooses to approach. How well the breed lives with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals, their previous experience and the way introductions are handled; the breed name is no guarantee.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure in its home. A young puppy should not be left alone; build up an adult dog's tolerance in small steps without allowing it to become frightened. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is regularly longer than the dog can remain alone without distress.

Oral care is an important part of routine care. Introduce toothbrushing gradually and ask your vet to help determine a suitable frequency. Dental chews may be a supplement, but they do not replace mechanical cleaning.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- How do the parents breathe at rest, during activity and in warm weather?
- Are there registered RFG results, and which grades did the dogs receive?
- When were the kneecaps and eyes last examined, and which results were recorded?
- Have close relatives had recurring corneal injuries, unexplained pain or neurological signs?
- How have the puppies been introduced to people, everyday sounds, handling and rest?
- What support does the breeder provide if questions arise after purchase?

The right dog can become a devoted companion that enjoys training. What matters is not simply that it is small or smooth-coated, but that it breathes freely, has healthy eyes and a stable temperament, and has a daily routine suited to an active companion dog.

Petit Brabançon

Petit Brabançon: a tiny, sturdy Belgian companion dog with a smooth, glossy coat and large, almost human dark eyes. Loyal, sensitive and intelligent, it bonds closely with its people, suits city living, needs daily mental and physical activity, and prefers homes where it’s rarely left alone.

Busfröna

## Quick Facts

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the United States as a herding and working dog and suits people who want to train and work with their dog every day. It is quick, responsive and versatile, but its working drive and guarding and herding instincts mean it is rarely suited to someone primarily looking for an undemanding companion.

- The breed belongs to FCI Group 1 and was developed to work sheep and cattle on farms and ranches.
- Desirable height at the withers is 51–58 cm for males and 46–53 cm for females. The breed standard gives no ideal weight.
- The coat is medium-length, weather-resistant and has an undercoat. The base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red, with or without white markings and tan points.
- The tail may be naturally long or short. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.
- An Australian Shepherd needs daily physical activity, problem-solving, co-operation and opportunities to settle.
- For Swedish breeding dogs, official hip dysplasia (HD) status and known mental status through an MH assessment are key checks. MH records reactions; it is not a pass-or-fail test.

## Appearance & Coat

The Australian Shepherd is a medium-sized, well-balanced and mobile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. It should be muscular and solid without becoming heavy or clumsy, because its construction must allow quick changes of direction and sustained work. The standard specifies desirable height but no ideal weight. Assess an adult by its proportions, body condition, movement and function rather than relying on a weight range said to come from the standard.

The coat is straight to wavy, medium-length and weather-resistant. The amount of undercoat varies with factors including climate and season. A correct coat needs regular combing and closer checks during shedding, but not an identical weekly schedule for every dog. Feel through the coat to the skin and pay particular attention to areas where friction can easily cause tangles, such as behind the ears and in the feathering. Check the skin, paws and nails at the same time after work in woodland or rough ground.

The four base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red. All may occur with or without white markings and tan points. Eyes may be brown, blue or amber, including combinations, flecks and marbling. Different-coloured eyes are therefore permitted and, by themselves, say nothing about the dog's temperament.

The tail may be naturally long or naturally short. The latter is often called NBT, natural bobtail, and must not be confused with a docked tail. The Swedish Kennel Club registers the breed with a tail designation showing whether the dog has a full-length tail, a bobtail, a tail shorter than normal, no tail or a docked tail. For a puppy buyer, the registration entry is better evidence than guessing from a photograph.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Australian Shepherd should be an intelligent working dog with strong herding and guarding instincts, an even disposition and a good-natured manner. It may be reserved when first meeting strangers, but breed-typical neutrality is not the same as fear or aggression. The Swedish Australian Shepherd Club therefore emphasises that neutral is a clearer term than reserved.

There is considerable variation between individuals and families. Some dogs work very intensely in relation to people and their surroundings, while others are more balanced in everyday life; the strength of herding, guarding, sound reactions and social interest can also differ. Labels such as working line or show line are not enough to predict a puppy's temperament. Look instead at the parents, mature close relatives, the breeder's goals, working records and documented mental assessments.

As a herding dog, the breed uses its body and movement to control livestock. This can produce a strong interest in things that move. In daily life, a dog may want to follow, stop or control running children, bicycles, joggers or other animals. This is a possible breed trait, not something every Australian Shepherd does and not an excuse to let the behaviour continue. Distance, a lead or barrier, a trained alternative and rewards for checking in make the situation safer while the skill is being taught.

MH is particularly useful when comparing breeding dogs and relatives. The assessment records how a dog reacted to contact, handling, play, surprises, noise and gunshots, among other things. It cannot on its own predict how a puppy will develop, and it does not measure the whole of working ability. Read the full record and ask how the dog behaves and recovers in ordinary environments.

## Training & Exercise

An Australian Shepherd needs both movement and tasks involving scent work, problem-solving and co-operation every day, but a fixed number of hours does not describe what an individual dog needs. A calm woodland walk, tracking or searching, everyday obedience, herding, working trials, agility and other well-planned training place different demands on the dog. Adapt volume and intensity to age, health, previous conditioning and recovery.

A manageable daily life requires more than making the dog physically tired. Prioritise the following from an early age:

- engagement and responsiveness even when something is moving nearby,
- recall, first practised in an easy setting and secured with a long line when needed,
- loose-lead walking, handling and the ability to wait,
- a clear transition between activity and calm,
- the ability to disengage from following or controlling children, vehicles and animals.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and adapted to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means accidentally rewarded habits can become established quickly. Make the desired behaviour easy to choose, increase difficulty gradually and do not use fear, threats or physical punishment.

Puppies and young dogs need movement, environmental experience, rest and short learning sessions, not an adult dog's workload or an exercise schedule based on a fixed number of minutes. The aim is a dog that can work with commitment, remain responsive and then settle. If activity increases while the dog finds it harder to sleep, relax or cope with everyday stimuli, the plan needs reviewing rather than simply adding more speed.

## Health

For a Swedish puppy buyer, the crucial distinction is between binding registration rules, breed-club recommendations and optional DNA tests. Under the current Swedish Kennel Club rules, official hip dysplasia status is required before mating and, for resident Swedish breeding dogs covered by the rules, known mental status through a complete MH assessment is also required. Known status does not automatically mean a good hip result or a desirable mental profile; check the actual result.

In its breed-specific breeding strategy, SASK generally recommends hip grades A or B and an eye examination for breeding dogs. The club also highlights the value of checking hip results in close relatives because the breed has no hip index. Elbow dysplasia (ED) screening is voluntary and is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Ask the breeder to show what was actually examined, on which dog, on what date and with what result rather than accepting the phrase health tested.

DNA tests are available for CEA, HSF4 and MDR1, among others, but SASK does not prescribe one universal panel for every mating. Each test concerns a particular gene or risk variant. A clear HSF4 result, for example, does not rule out every form of cataract and does not replace a clinical eye examination. Relevant tests are selected according to documented risks in the family and the planned mating.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, can affect how certain medicines are distributed in the body and reach the brain. An individual dog's status cannot be determined from its appearance. If the dog has been tested, the result should be recorded in its veterinary notes; medicine selection and dosage always belong with the veterinarian.

Two merle dogs should not be mated. The combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle variant and an increased risk of deafness and visual or eye abnormalities. The naturally short NBT tail has a different genetic basis. SASK recommends caution with matings in which both parents carry the NBT variant as well, but the two issues should not be confused.

## History & Origins

Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd as it is known today was developed in the United States. The FCI standard links the name to Basque shepherds who came to the United States from Australia during the nineteenth century. The precise contribution of older herding dogs is less certain, so a detailed account of a fixed breed recipe should be treated as theory.

American sheep and cattle farmers continued selecting dogs for versatility, independent work, intelligence and herding ability. After the Second World War, awareness of the breed grew as Western riding, rodeos, horse shows, films and television reached a wider audience. The modern breed's American ranch background explains both the paradox in its name and why function remains central to its description.

## Living with the Breed

The Australian Shepherd is best suited to a routine that includes planned activity, learning and recovery even during ordinary working weeks. A large garden does not replace shared tasks, and competition ambitions are unnecessary if the dog still has a meaningful and varied life. Anyone wanting a dog that mainly joins shorter walks should choose a less demanding type.

With children, an adult should always be present, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the household needs a plan for high-energy play. Interrupt and create distance before the dog begins to fixate on or control movement. Children should not be responsible for situations in which a quick, strong dog may react to its surroundings.

Living with dogs or cats depends on the individuals and the introduction, not the breed name. Find out about the parents' and the particular dog's history. Begin calmly with separate safe spaces, a barrier and a lead, give the cat an unobstructed escape route and progress only when both animals can remain relaxed. Small pets may require permanent physical separation.

The breed can live in a flat if it gets enough time outdoors, meaningful tasks and rest, and the owner can manage reactions to noise. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners need to prevent noises in shared areas from prompting the dog to guard and bark. Time alone should be trained gradually and judged by the individual dog's behaviour. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is an outing guideline, not a measure of how long an individual is comfortable being alone.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registration numbers, hip results, full MH records, dates and results of eye examinations, and relevant DNA results. Also check the tail designation and working achievements, and ask how mature close relatives behave around people, noise, movement, rest and recovery. Those details say more about what daily life with the dog is likely to be like than colour, eyes or whether the breeder calls the dogs working-line or show-line.

Australian Shepherd

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

The Australian Shepherd is a medium, athletic herding dog, highly intelligent and energetic. Loyal and people oriented, it bonds closely and needs substantial daily exercise, training, and mental work. Its striking, weather resistant coat and varied eye colors add to its appeal.

## Quick Facts

The Jämthund is a large Swedish hunting spitz, bred primarily to find elk and hold the animal in place by barking at bay. It is a courageous, independent working dog with exceptional stamina — not a breed developed chiefly for life as a companion.

- **Origin:** Sweden
- **Breed group:** Spitz and primitive types
- **Purpose:** Hunting dog that holds game at bay, used mainly for elk hunting
- **Height at the withers:** 57–65 cm for males and 52–60 cm for females
- **Coat:** Dense double coat in lighter or darker shades of grey
- **Typical traits:** Strong hunting drive, stamina, courage, independence and a willingness to co-operate
- **Best suited to:** A hunter or active home able to provide a genuine outlet for the breed's hunting instincts

A Jämthund can be calm and affectionate at home when its needs are met, but everyday exercise is not always a substitute for the work it was bred to do. The key question before buying one is not simply whether you enjoy being outdoors, but whether you can provide a meaningful role for an independent hunting dog with exceptional stamina.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jämthund is a large, strong and agile spitz with a rectangular outline. Its body should be slightly longer than its height at the withers without appearing heavy or overlong. Males stand 57–65 cm, with 61 cm as the ideal, while females stand 52–60 cm, with 56 cm as the ideal. The breed standard gives no set weight, so body condition and proportion are more useful guides than a general weight range.

The head is long, with upright ears and an alert expression. The tail is set high and carried loosely curled in a low arc against the thigh, rather than tightly curled over the back.

The coat consists of fairly close-lying guard hairs and a short, soft, light-coloured undercoat. The colour is a darker or lighter grey. Light grey or cream markings appear on areas including the muzzle, cheeks, throat, chest, belly, legs and underside of the tail.

Coat care is usually straightforward. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it and brush the coat thoroughly during shedding periods. After work in woodland or rough ground, check the paws, claws, skin and coat for injuries, debris and ticks. The frequency depends on the season and how the dog is used, not on a fixed weekly timetable.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jämthund should be courageous and energetic, yet calm and steady. While hunting, it works independently at a distance, searches for game and has to make its own decisions. At the same time, it should remain in contact with its handler and be willing to co-operate. This combination helps explain why the breed often learns quickly but does not necessarily follow instructions mechanically.

Training works best when it is clear, consistent and based on rewards. Harsh methods risk damaging trust without producing better teamwork. Reward attention, recall and calm choices from the outset, and practise the same skills in the environments where they will actually be needed.

Barking is a working tool. The Jämthund has been bred to mark game with sustained barking while holding it at bay, and that instinct can also be noticeable in daily life. This does not mean every dog will be noisy indoors, but anyone living in a building with thin walls should take the issue seriously and teach calm behaviour around doors, visitors and activity outside the home.

Individual dogs and breeding lines vary. Ask the breeder how the parents behave while hunting, at rest, around people and in unfamiliar surroundings. Hunting results reveal a great deal about working ability, but they do not tell you everything about a dog's behaviour at home.

## Training & Exercise

A Jämthund needs more than ordinary lead walks: it needs fitness work, opportunities to use its nose, co-operation with its handler and tasks that engage its hunting drive. There is no official daily quota of hours or kilometres that suits every dog. The right level depends on age, fitness, health, season and the demands of the work.

For an adult, a good routine combines regular physical conditioning with search, tracking and handler-focus exercises. Hunting and hunting training are the breed's most natural outlets. Outside the hunting season, planned fitness work and mentally demanding tasks are still needed, alongside rest and recovery. A dog that has worked for a long time over difficult ground may need an easier day afterwards even if it still appears keen to continue.

Recall is important, but it does not remove the hunting instinct. Build it gradually using a long line and carefully chosen distractions, and do not let the dog off lead where a wide search could put wildlife, traffic or the dog itself at risk. A GPS tracker is a safety aid during hunting, not a substitute for basic training and sound judgement.

A puppy should be allowed to explore, play, develop body awareness and learn to follow its handler in short, positive sessions. Increase distance and effort gradually according to the individual dog's development. The breed's specific breeding strategy cautions against demanding hunting training before the dog is fully developed. Avoid chasing early results through long, repetitive or forced sessions. A vet or canine physiotherapist can help with a plan if there are concerns about the growing dog's movement or joints.

## Health

The Jämthund is generally regarded as a healthy, functional breed, but hip dysplasia and epilepsy do occur. The breed's specific breeding strategy also highlights diabetes and the eye disease progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA. A thorough check before buying a puppy should therefore cover both recorded screening results and the health history of close relatives.

For Jämthund litters to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed uses an HD index, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a parental average above 100. Dogs graded D or E for hip dysplasia may not be used for breeding under the breed's index programme.

The breed's specific breeding recommendations go further: the parents should have hips graded A or B, elbows clear of dysplasia, an eye examination no more than twelve months old and a qualification from an off-lead hunting trial for elk. These recommendations must be distinguished from the specific registration conditions. Elbow and eye results and hunting qualifications are nevertheless valuable when comparing litters.

Ask the breeder about:

- the parents' hip and elbow results and current hip indices
- the date and result of their most recent eye examination
- epilepsy, diabetes and PRA in parents, siblings and previous offspring
- hunting-trial results and how the dogs work in practice
- the physical and behavioural development of previous offspring

Epilepsy and diabetes cannot be assessed through a single simple health certificate. Open information about the wider family is therefore particularly valuable. Poor vision in dim light, recurring seizures, excessive thirst or a marked increase in urination should be assessed by a vet, but these signs can have several causes and should not be self-diagnosed.

## History & Origins

The Jämthund is a Swedish breed from the northern coniferous forest tradition of large hunting spitzes. It was officially recognised as a separate breed in 1946. Before then, the larger Jämthund type and the smaller Norwegian Elkhound Grey were judged within the same breed, which helps explain why the Jämthund received its own standard relatively late.

Older sources describe large, wolf-like hunting dogs in Jämtland and neighbouring regions, but an unbroken line from ancient dogs to today's registered breed cannot be proven. What is clear is that the modern Jämthund has been shaped through purposeful breeding for work in Nordic forests.

Elk hunting has been the breed's dominant role. The dog searches independently, works to keep the elk in one place and then marks its position by barking at bay so that the handler can approach. The Jämthund has also been used to hunt species including bear and wild boar, but its identity and breeding aims remain most closely tied to its work as an elk dog that holds game at bay.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Jämthund works best when its work, recovery and home routine are planned as a whole. A large garden is useful but cannot replace training or meaningful activity. Flat living is not impossible, but it requires ready access to suitable countryside, practical storage for equipment, attention to noise and a routine that gets the dog outdoors frequently.

The breed can live successfully in a family with children, but this is not automatic. An adult should always supervise interactions between a dog and young children, take responsibility for exercise and give the dog a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Even a friendly, strong and enthusiastic youngster can accidentally knock over a small child.

A strong hunting drive affects life with other animals. A Jämthund introduced calmly and carefully to a cat may learn to live alongside it, but this does not guarantee the same response to unfamiliar cats outdoors. Small pets need to be kept safely separate in a way that does not depend on obedience. Reactions to other dogs depend on the individual, its experience and the way introductions are handled; blanket claims that one sex will always or never get along are too simplistic.

Time alone should be built up gradually once the dog feels secure in its home. Adult dogs vary greatly in how readily they relax when left, and a puppy cannot be treated like a fully trained adult. Plan for supervision, toilet breaks and company in daily life rather than assuming that a great deal of exercise will automatically make the dog content with long periods alone.

Choose a breeder and litter for the life you can genuinely provide. Ask to see documented health results, enquire about illness in the family and find out how the parents hunt and behave at home. For someone seeking an enduring hunting partner and who enjoys close teamwork with an independent dog, the Jämthund can be an excellent fit. Someone looking mainly for an easy-going companion will find breeds with much more suitable foundations.

Jämthund

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Member Countries

The Jämthund is a large, wolf‑like Scandinavian spitz bred for elk hunting in harsh Nordic forests. It has a thick grey double coat, curled tail, and calm, loyal nature. Intelligent and independent, it needs experienced handling, rigorous daily exercise, and regular mental work.

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Harjubackens

Sanna Kristiansson Forsberg

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Stora Bergas

Greyberry's

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Frejmyrans

Almedina Rastoder Secic

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Sabina Jansson

Theresé Ringström

## Quick Facts

The Dobermann is a German working breed for someone who wants to train, cooperate and keep their dog close in everyday life. The breed learns quickly, is physically strong and often forms a very close bond with its family. It needs an owner who can provide both purposeful activity and clear periods of rest — not just long walks.

- **A good fit if:** you want to work actively on everyday obedience, scent work or dog sport and have time for daily companionship.
- **A poorer fit if:** the dog will regularly be left alone for whole working days or is largely expected to exercise itself.
- **The key question when buying a puppy:** what is known about the heart health and temperament of the parents and close relatives, and can the breeder show dated results?
- **Size:** males 68–72 cm and about 40–45 kg; females 63–68 cm and about 32–35 kg, according to the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and without an undercoat; easy to care for but with limited protection from cold and wet weather.
- **Main health challenge:** dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, which can develop without visible signs.

A Dobermann can suit a committed first-time owner, but training and safe handling need to begin immediately. Access to a good puppy class, continuing support from an instructor and a realistic daily plan matter more than the label ‘experienced dog owner’.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dobermann is a medium-sized, powerful and almost squarely built dog that should combine muscle with elegance. The FCI standard recognises two colours: black or brown, both with clearly defined rust-red markings.

The ears are left natural and should ideally lie close to the cheeks. The tail is also natural and is ideally carried high in a slight curve. In Sweden, cropping the ears or docking the tail is prohibited unless the procedure is necessary for veterinary reasons.

The short, smooth coat normally needs only occasional brushing and a bath when the dog is dirty. Check the nails, ears, skin and paws at the same time. The coat has no undercoat, and short-haired dogs can become cold more quickly than well-coated breeds. Adapt to the individual dog, the weather and the activity: a well-fitting coat can be sensible in cold or wet conditions or during periods of inactivity. Dry the dog after wet walks and keep it moving when outside in cold weather.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, calm, self-confident and willing worker with a good connection to its handler. Many Dobermanns are playful, attentive and closely attached to their family. They notice changes around them quickly and usually want to be involved, which can create a very close working relationship.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every dog. Information from the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club shows that sociability and fears still need to be taken seriously. Look at the complete MH profiles of both parents rather than merely checking that they ‘have done MH’. MH records the dog’s reactions; it does not award a pass or fail. Pay particular attention to contact with people, fears, recovery and response to gunshot, and ask how siblings and older relatives behave in everyday life.

Dobermanns often have an interest in chasing and may react quickly to movement. Whether a dog can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and training. A breed name can never promise trouble-free relationships. Ask the breeder to describe the parents’ social behaviour in concrete terms and plan new introductions calmly and under control.

## Training & Exercise

A Dobermann needs physical activity and purposeful mental work every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, temperament and fitness determine the appropriate load. For an adult dog, the best routine combines walks and time to move freely with short training sessions, scent work and recovery.

Prioritise skills that make a strong, watchful dog safe to live with:

- walking on a loose lead and keeping in touch despite distractions
- recall and the ability to break focus on wildlife or other movement
- calm behaviour at the door, with visitors, around other dogs and during handling
- waiting, settling and giving up items on cue
- scent work, tracking or searching in which the dog has a clear task to solve

Train with rewards, clarity and consistency. High expectations without understandable guidance do not create stability. Vary the tasks and finish while the dog is still succeeding. A Dobermann also needs to learn how to switch off; more speed is not always the answer to stress or restlessness.

Puppies and adolescents should not follow an adult dog’s exercise programme. Focus on play, gradual exposure to the environment, body awareness and short skills sessions, then increase the load as the dog matures. Anyone planning to cycle, run long distances or take part in demanding dog sport should time the start according to the individual dog’s development and veterinary advice.

## Health

DCM is the most important health risk to understand before buying a Dobermann. The disease weakens the heart muscle and can cause abnormal rhythms. It can be present at a preclinical stage, when the dog appears healthy, and a normal result on one occasion does not rule out disease developing later.

A full DCM screen includes both echocardiography and a 24-hour Holter ECG. The ultrasound assesses the dimensions and pumping function of the heart, among other things, while the Holter records its rhythm over a full day. Results are recorded centrally under the Swedish Kennel Club’s level 1 programme, but level 1 does not make the examination a registration requirement. A dog must be at least three years old to receive an official normal status, and the result is valid for 12 months. The Swedish Dobermann Club recommends that breeding dogs aged three or over have a full screen within a year before mating.

Ask to see the date and both parts of each parent’s screen. Also ask about heart health, lifespan and causes of death among older close relatives. A DNA test cannot replace echocardiography and Holter monitoring, and the phrase ‘heart tested’ is insufficient without the method, date and result.

Other documented problems in the breed include hip dysplasia, the eye condition PHTVL/PHPV, von Willebrand disease, which affects blood clotting, and Wobbler syndrome, which affects the cervical spine and nervous system. Wobbler syndrome can, among other signs, cause neck pain or difficulty coordinating movement. Such changes, as well as fainting or a marked loss of stamina, require veterinary assessment.

For Swedish litter registration, the parents must have official hip dysplasia status. Parents resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have ‘known mental status’. For dogs born in 2016 or later, this means a complete MH with all 33 entries completed; the handler may decline the gunshot component. The breed has an HD index, the parents’ average index at mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded D or E must not be used for breeding.

The published breed-specific breeding strategy recommends a vWD test unless the dog’s clear status is established by parentage, with at least one genetically clear parent, and also covers PHTVL/PHPV. Distinguish such breed-club guidance from the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules and ask for current eye examination results. Check the information yourself in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata services. Healthy, tested parents reduce risk but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The Dobermann was developed in Apolda, Germany, during the 1870s and is named after Friedrich Louis Dobermann. He worked as a tax collector and dog catcher, among other roles, and selected dogs with clear guarding and working qualities. The FCI history particularly identifies the ‘butcher’s dogs’ of the period, a forerunner of the Rottweiler, and a black, rust-marked shepherd type from Thuringia as important foundations.

The dogs were used early on as farm, guard and police dogs. This helps explain the breed’s combination of attentiveness, courage, connection with its handler and desire to work. Today, the Dobermann remains a working and sporting dog, but can also be a companion and family dog in a home able to meet the same need for cooperation and purposeful tasks.

## Living with the Breed

A Dobermann does not require one particular type of home, but it does require a workable daily routine. Flat living can work if the dog is active outdoors, can settle indoors and does not become watchful at every sound. Think practically about noise carrying between homes, access to outdoor space and an undisturbed resting place.

The breed often wants to stay close and is not suited to being left alone for whole days on a regular basis. A young puppy cannot be left alone. An adult trained to cope alone can generally manage a few hours, but individual differences are considerable. Increase the time in small steps and arrange help if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress.

With children, a stable and well-trained Dobermann can be a close member of the family, but its size and speed require adult supervision. A dog and a small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically control.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can I give the dog work and recovery every day? Can I handle a strong dog safely when something unexpected happens? Can the breeder show clear, dated records for hearts, hips, temperament and close relatives? If any answer is no, it is wiser to wait or choose a less demanding breed.

Dobermann

Verein für Deutsche Hunde (VDH)

Dobermann Club of the United Kingdom

The Dobermann is a medium‑large, athletic German working dog with a short, sleek coat and rust markings. Highly intelligent, loyal and people‑oriented, it needs extensive daily exercise, training and close companionship. Naturally alert, its temperament depends heavily on breeding and socialisation.

## Quick Facts

The Dalmatian is a medium-sized, athletic and sociable dog best suited to someone who wants to share an active daily life with their dog. It can make a lovely family companion, but this is not a breed to choose for its looks alone. A Dalmatian needs well-planned exercise, training, recovery time and plenty of contact with its people.

- **Origin and breed group:** Croatia; FCI Group 6, Scenthounds and Related Breeds.
- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of 56–62 cm for males and 54–60 cm for females. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives a weight of about 27–32 kg for males and 24–29 kg for females.
- **Coat:** Short, harsh and dense, with black or liver spots on a white ground.
- **Activity level:** Energetic and built for endurance. The breed needs physical activity, opportunities to use its nose and think, and help learning to settle.
- **Important checks before buying:** Ask to see the puppy's BAER result for both ears, the parents' hearing results, and clear information about their HUA or LUA status. Also ask for hip, elbow and BPH behaviour-assessment results where available.

A Dalmatian can suit a committed first-time owner who is prepared to learn about the breed's particular health considerations and establish consistent routines. It is a poor choice for anyone looking for a dog content with short walks, likely to be left alone frequently, or expected to become reliably safe off lead without systematic training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dalmatian should be strong and well balanced without looking heavy. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, with an approximate ratio of 10:9 between body length and height at the withers. The short, glossy coat lies close to the body and shows off the athletic outline.

The ground colour is pure white. Spots should be black or liver, clearly defined and evenly distributed. They are normally around two to three centimetres across on the body and smaller on the head and legs. Puppies are born white, with the spots appearing gradually.

The coat requires no elaborate clipping. Brush as needed to collect loose hair, using the opportunity to check the skin, ears, paws and nails. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. A short coat does not necessarily mean little hair around the home: how noticeable shedding is varies between dogs, seasons and households.

The short coat provides limited protection when the dog is standing still, wet or exposed to severe cold. Adjust the pace and length of walks to the weather and the dog's response. A coat may be sensible in cold conditions, particularly if the dog becomes tense, seeks warmth or is reluctant to move on. Dry the paws and coat after wet walks or outings on salted winter paths.

## Temperament & Personality

A well-adjusted Dalmatian is friendly, lively, loyal and trainable. The breed standard also describes a degree of independence. In daily life, this often means a dog keen to join family activities but one that needs clear routines and a worthwhile reason to co-operate. Fearfulness, nervousness and aggression are not part of the standard's ideal, but a breed description can never guarantee the character of an individual dog.

Claims about hunting drive need qualification. The international breed standard mentions a pronounced scent-hound instinct, while the Swedish Kennel Club's short breed guide describes hunting interest as low. That difference is a good reason to assess the individual rather than rely on a label. Ask how the parents behave around wildlife and read their BPH behaviour-assessment results if they have been assessed. Practise recall on a long line where necessary, and do not let the dog off lead in unsecured places until its response has been tested thoroughly.

Many Dalmatians want to stay close to their family and are sensitive to mood and unclear expectations. Short, straightforward sessions with rewards and clear breaks will often work better than nagging or harsh corrections. Practise settling in a designated resting place as deliberately as handling, recall and walking with you.

With children and other animals, individual character, experience and household routines matter more than the breed name. A large, fast-moving adolescent can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult must therefore always supervise young children and the dog, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Dalmatian needs regular, varied activity, but there is no exact number of minutes that suits every dog. A good routine alternates walks, scent work, short training tasks, free movement where it is safe, and uninterrupted rest. Age, health, fitness and how the dog feels that day should determine the amount.

The breed historically accompanied carriages and horses, and many adult Dalmatians enjoy endurance exercise. That does not mean a puppy should be exercised like a fully conditioned adult. Let a young dog explore at its own pace, build body awareness and learn everyday skills rather than chasing mileage. Running alongside a bicycle or other repetitive conditioning work should wait until the dog is physically mature. Start with short, easy sessions, increase gradually, and stop if the dog is lame, stiff, reluctant or unusually tired.

Prioritise skills that make an active life safer:

- attention and walking with you even when something moves nearby
- recall first practised on a long line with controlled distractions
- calm waiting, settling and the ability to wind down after activity
- co-operative handling of ears, paws and mouth
- stop and direction cues before the dog accompanies a bicycle or horse

More speed is not always the answer for a restless adolescent. If the dog becomes increasingly over-aroused, sleeps poorly or struggles to concentrate, it may need simpler tasks and more recovery rather than another demanding session.

## Health

Two issues are particularly important for a Dalmatian buyer: congenital hearing loss and the breed's handling of uric acid. Ask for the actual test results and learn what they mean; do not settle for the vague claim that a litter is “health tested”.

### Hearing and BAER

BAER is a veterinary hearing test that assesses each ear separately. It shows whether a dog hears in both ears, hears in one ear, or is deaf in both. Ask to see the puppy's own certificate as well as the parents' results.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy reports BAER results submitted from 2018 to 2023. Within that particular group of tested dogs, about 86 per cent heard in both ears, just over 11 per cent heard in one, and just over 2 per cent were deaf in both. Those figures describe submitted results from tested dogs; they are not a precise prediction for every new litter.

A dog that hears in one ear is regarded as clinically hearing and may cope very well in daily life, although poorer sound localisation can require extra care near traffic and in other hazardous settings. The Swedish Dalmatian club recommends BAER-tested parents, mating a unilaterally hearing dog only to a bilaterally hearing dog, and never breeding from a deaf dog.

### HUA, LUA and urate stones

HUA and LUA describe different variants of the SLC2A9 gene, which affects the transport of uric acid. HUA Dalmatians excrete more uric acid in their urine and consequently have a greater tendency to form urate crystals and stones. An increased risk does not mean that the dog is certain to become ill. Nor do crystals in a sample prove by themselves that a stone is present.

LUA Dalmatians carry a gene variant that produces normal uric-acid handling. It was introduced through a documented cross-breeding project in the United States in the 1970s and is now present in registered Dalmatians, including dogs in Sweden. LUA does not protect a dog from every other urinary-tract problem.

Ask the breeder for the documented HUA or LUA status of the puppy and its parents, and whether urinary stones have occurred in the family. An HUA dog should have ready access to water and regular opportunities to urinate. Food and any treatment should be tailored with a vet if the dog develops problems; one rigid diet does not suit every individual. Repeated attempts to urinate, pain, blood in the urine or an inability to pass urine require prompt veterinary attention.

### Results, recommendations and rules

The Swedish Dalmatian club recommends measures including BPH behaviour assessment, BAER testing of breeding dogs and carefully planned matings based on hip and elbow results. These are breeding recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules impose no Dalmatian-specific requirement for BAER, hip or elbow screening, BPH, or HUA/LUA status; the breed's special registration provision concerns colour designation. A careful buyer can nevertheless request the results, check dates and identities, and discuss what they mean for the particular mating.

## History & Origins

The Dalmatian's official country of origin is Croatia, and its name is associated with the historic region of Dalmatia. Its earliest history should be described cautiously, but the breed standard refers to paintings and church chronicles from the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. The name “Dalmatian dog” appeared in a description from 1771, and in 1790 the dog was illustrated and described as the “Dalmatian or Coach Dog”.

In England, the Dalmatian became known as a carriage and stable dog from the middle of the eighteenth century until the early twentieth century. The dogs accompanied horse-drawn vehicles and consequently became associated with horses, endurance and travelling longer distances. The first unofficial standard was written in 1882 and became official in 1890.

The carriage-dog history helps explain the breed's activity profile, but it does not dictate how much exercise an individual dog needs or mean that every Dalmatian will be safe around horses. Introduce horse and dog under control and teach the dog where to stay before they move together.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Dalmatian depends more on daily structure than the size of the home. Flat living can work if the dog receives enough activity, regular toilet breaks and peace indoors. Sensitivity to noise and barking need early attention, especially with close neighbours. A garden is no substitute for walks, training or time together.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone. Later, begin with very short, calm absences and increase them only when the dog can genuinely rest. An adult dog that has been trained to cope alone can normally manage a few hours, but ability varies. Do not plan daily life around a supposed breed-specific maximum.

If the Dalmatian will live with a cat, first give the cat a dog-free area and access to high places or escape routes. Begin with scent swapping and short meetings with the dog on a lead, reward calm behaviour and interrupt attempts to chase. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over a substantial period. The same caution is needed around small animals.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to check:

- the puppy's BAER certificate for the right and left ear
- the parents' BAER results and the puppy's documented HUA or LUA status
- the parents' hip, elbow and BPH results, where available, and the breeder's interpretation of the mating
- how the parents behave around people, dogs, wildlife and noise, and how readily they settle in ordinary daily life
- how the breeder socialises the puppies and what support will be available after purchase

The Dalmatian suits someone who values a close, expressive dog with plenty of stamina and is willing to invest time in both activity and calm. Choose a breeder and an individual on the basis of documented results and observed everyday behaviour, not spots or general promises about the breed.

Dalmatian

Dalmatiner Klub Deutschland e.V. (Germany)

The Dalmatian is a medium, athletic dog with a short white coat and distinct black or liver spots. Originally a carriage and guard dog, it is energetic, intelligent, and needs far more exercise than average. Loyal and people‑oriented, it may struggle when left alone and is prone to deafness and urinary stones.

## Quick Facts

- The Bichon Frise is a small Franco-Belgian companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- The breed standard gives a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to size. Males may be 1 centimetre taller and females 2 centimetres shorter if they remain well balanced.
- An adult should be white, with a profuse coat of loose spiral curls and a soft, dense undercoat.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful, sociable and adaptable dog that likes to stay close to its people. Temperament still varies between individuals.
- Coat care takes both time and skill. Anyone who does not want to manage bathing, blow-drying, combing and trimming at home will need to arrange regular grooming appointments.
- The Bichon Frise is not an allergy-free dog. The amount of allergen produced varies between individuals, even within the same litter.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bichon Frise is small but should not look delicate. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, while the white, curly coat creates the breed's rounded outline. The dark eyes and black nose form three distinct dark points in the face. The breed standard specifies a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to the dog's size. Males may be up to 30 centimetres and females as short as 23 centimetres, provided that their proportions remain balanced.

The coat has a curly outer layer and a soft, dense undercoat. An adult Bichon Frise should be pure white. Before twelve months of age, a puppy may have a slight beige or champagne tinge, but the standard says this must cover no more than one tenth of the dog. A pale tint on a young puppy is therefore not automatically an incorrect colour.

Coat care is one of the most important points to consider before choosing the breed. The curls need to be brushed and combed right down to the skin; if the comb catches, there is a tangle that needs to be eased out carefully. Brushing only the surface can leave a dense layer of matting close to the skin. During the puppy's coat change, often from about five to seven months but sometimes later, a thorough check may be needed every day.

The breed club uses bathing about every two weeks and trimming about every six weeks as practical guides. The interval depends on coat quality, length, weather and how thoroughly the coat is kept combed between sessions. Dry the coat completely after a bath without directing air that is too hot at the skin. Start early with short, positive sessions so the puppy becomes comfortable on a grooming table and with a brush, comb, paw handling and dryer. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to demonstrate the technique before tangles become a problem.

The breed is often suggested to people with allergies because it leaves relatively little visible hair around the home. That does not make the dog hypoallergenic. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and the amount differs from one dog to another. Anyone with an allergy should therefore assess their own circumstances and meet the particular dog several times; the breed name can never provide a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bichon Frise is first and foremost a companion dog: people-oriented, lively and often easy to include in everyday life. The breed standard describes an adaptable dog that is sociable with people and other dogs, forms a close bond with its owners and should be neither nervous nor prone to frequent barking. This is a breeding ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's health survey presents a more nuanced picture. Most owners described their dogs as secure, cheerful and positive, but some dogs were reserved with strangers or cautious when meeting other dogs. Calm, early exposure to different environments therefore matters even in a breed known for being sociable. Let the puppy discover new people, surfaces, sounds and dogs at a pace that allows it to remain curious and engage willingly.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and appreciates a close relationship with their dog. Its small size does not make ownership effortless. Coat care is substantial, a puppy needs frequent opportunities to toilet, and an adult needs daily activity, company and gradual training to spend time alone.

A Bichon Frise does not have to be noisy. An individual may nevertheless start reacting to sounds in a communal hallway, people passing a window or hectic situations. Reward calm behaviour, provide a place away from windows and the front door if necessary, and practise around everyday sounds before the response becomes a habit.

## Training & Exercise

The Bichon Frise needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day, but there is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the day's other activities all matter. For a healthy adult, walks that allow time for sniffing can be combined with play and short training sessions. Puppies need more frequent but shorter outings, while an older dog may need a gentler pace and more breaks.

Although bred for companionship, the Bichon Frise can do far more than sit on a lap. Swedish owners take part in activities including nosework, rally obedience, obedience and agility. Competition is not the point; the aim is to give the dog tasks it understands, such as finding a hidden toy, following a short scent trail, learning a trick or practising attention on a walk. A suitable daily routine helps the dog stay in good condition, remain curious outdoors and settle at home.

Training works best when it is reward-based, introduced step by step and adapted to the individual. Short sessions make concentration easier. Give particular attention to recall, walking on a lead, waiting calmly and standing still for coat care. Handling practice is an essential everyday skill for a Bichon Frise, not something to postpone until its first trim.

There is no good evidence that the Bichon Frise is unusually difficult to housetrain as a breed. Puppies learn at different rates. Take the puppy outside after sleep, meals and play, reward toileting outdoors and do not punish accidents. If a previously housetrained dog suddenly starts urinating indoors, investigate the cause rather than dismissing the behaviour as stubbornness.

## Health

The breed club's latest Swedish review describes the breed's general health as good to very good, but relatively few dogs were examined in some years and an owner survey cannot replace veterinary diagnoses. Check the parents' documented results rather than relying on a general assurance that the breed is usually healthy.

Patellar status, which records the position of the kneecap, is an important Swedish checkpoint. The Swedish Kennel Club will not register the litter if the parents lack an official patellar result. The examination must have been carried out when each parent was at least one year old, and the result must be available before mating. As its main recommendation, the breed club advises grade 0, with no abnormality, in both parents. Ask the breeder to show the results in the Swedish Kennel Club databases and ask about knee problems in close relatives.

Eye health also needs attention, but the rules are different. The Swedish Kennel Club's former eye examination requirement has been removed. The breed club still recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination certificate no more than twelve months old at the time of mating and advises how certain findings may be combined. Ask about both a current eye examination and eye diagnoses in the family without describing the examination as a current registration requirement.

Watery eyes were reported in the Swedish health survey, but it did not establish the causes. Tear staining shows quickly on a white coat, yet the condition of the eye matters more than the colour of the hair. New or increased tearing, squinting, pain, swelling or a change in vision should be examined by a vet. The breed's health strategy also notes recurrent itching and allergy problems, but the evidence is not strong enough to give reliable frequency figures.

Dental care is an important routine for every dog. Daily tooth brushing is the best preventive measure against periodontal disease and makes it easier to notice redness, bad breath or damaged teeth early. Introduce the puppy gradually to having its lips lifted and teeth touched, using the same calm approach as for coat care.

## History & Origins

The documented modern history of the Bichon Frise is Franco-Belgian. The FCI describes small dogs of this type being brought from Italy to France during the Renaissance. The name developed from barbichon to bichon, and paintings from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries show similar dogs with royalty and other prominent people.

The breed returned to fashion during the reign of Napoleon III, when it was known as the Ténériffe. The population came close to disappearing after the two world wars, but French and Belgian breeders rebuilt it. The current French name, bichon à poil frisé, was established in 1978 when the breed was recognised as Franco-Belgian. It arrived in Sweden in 1976, and the first Swedish litters were born the following year.

There are also colourful stories about sailors, rat-catching and travelling dogs, but these are less well documented. The best-supported account is primarily the history of a European companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

A Bichon Frise can live successfully in either a flat or a house because the size of the home matters less than the daily routine. The dog needs regular outings, activity every day and training to remain calm around sounds outside the front door. Swedish welfare guidance advises that adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent opportunities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Start once the dog feels secure at home, step away for a very short time and increase the duration only while the dog remains calm. One adult may manage a few hours, while another needs more company or a dog sitter. Howling, destructive behaviour, restlessness or refusing food means the training should be scaled back and may need to be discussed with a qualified trainer or vet.

The same safety rules that apply to other dogs are needed around children. Young children and dogs should have an adult present, and the dog needs its own resting place where it will be left alone. The Bichon's small body requires gentle handling; children should not carry the dog or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. If there is already a dog or cat in the home, introductions should be calm and allow plenty of distance. The breed's sociable ideal does not remove the need for a careful introduction.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants a close companion and accepts that coat care is a weekly commitment. Before buying a puppy, you should be able to see the parents' patellar and eye results, ask how they cope with time alone, sounds, people and dogs, and receive a practical coat-care demonstration. This bases the decision on the dog and the life you will actually share, rather than on promises of an undemanding small pet.

Bichon Frise

Deutscher Bichon Frisé Club e.V.

Small, sturdy companion dog (23–30 cm, 5–8 kg) with a cottony white, low‑shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, people‑oriented, and adaptable to city or house living, it enjoys play and cuddles, moderate daily exercise, and close inclusion in family life.

Caritas Alegres

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Sundeviken's

## Quick Facts

The Keeshond is the same breed variety as the Wolfspitz in the FCI standard and the largest of the German Spitz varieties. Its country of origin is Germany, but the name and cultural history are strongly associated with the Netherlands.

- **Breed type:** medium-sized watchdog and companion dog in FCI Group 5
- **Height at the withers:** 49 cm, with a permitted variation of 6 cm in either direction
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no set weight in kilograms; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** grey-shaded double coat with abundant undercoat, a mane-like ruff and distinct dark facial markings
- **Typical traits according to the breed standard:** alert, lively, trainable, devoted to its owner and often reserved with strangers
- **Hunting drive:** the standard describes an absence of hunting instinct, but each dog's recall and interest in wildlife still need to be trained and assessed
- **Important before buying:** ask for clear health records, especially which PHPT test was used, which laboratory performed it and what the result was

The Keeshond is best suited to someone who accepts regular coat care and wants to train both calm behaviour and everyday skills. A friendly breed description does not make every individual quiet, comfortable alone or safe with every child and animal.

## Appearance & Coat

The Keeshond is a squarely built spitz with a wedge-shaped head, small upright ears and a plumed tail carried curled over the back. The ratio of height at the withers to body length should be approximately one to one, creating the compact outline.

The grey-shaded colour consists of silver-grey hair with black tips. The muzzle and ears are dark, while the mane, shoulders and breeches are lighter. A defining feature is the so-called spectacles: dark lines and shading running from the outer corner of the eye towards the ear.

The double coat has long, straight and firm guard hairs over a short, thick, cotton-like undercoat. The hair is shorter on the head, ears, fronts of the legs and paws. The breed standard requires an abundant coat but also says that it must not appear to have been shaped by trimming.

Grooming must reach all the way to the skin. Work in small sections with a brush and comb, especially behind the ears, in the armpits, around the breeches and beneath the harness. A comb that moves through freely is a better check than a rigid weekly timetable. More frequent sessions are needed during heavy shedding. Accustom the puppy early to coat care and other handling.

The coat should not be clipped to create a different outline. If medical treatment requires shaving, follow veterinary advice. Check the skin while combing; sores, odour or a sudden coat change are reasons to contact a vet.

The dense coat requires extra planning in warm weather. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, provide water and shade, and shorten activity before the dog becomes distressed. Heavy panting, lethargy, drooling or weakness can be signs of overheating and should be taken seriously.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Keeshond as alert, lively, highly devoted to its owner and easy to train, with natural reserve towards strangers and little hunting drive. This is a description of the desired breed temperament, not a promise of how every individual will react.

The breed's readiness to notice activity around the home may show as barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or when people pass. In a building with poor sound insulation, noise is therefore a more important question than floor area. Teach the dog early to leave the door and settle after a few barks, and give it a clear place where it can relax without monitoring everything.

A somewhat reserved Keeshond should be able to investigate a new situation and recover without being pushed into contact. Let the puppy encounter people, environments and sounds in manageable amounts and reward voluntary curiosity. Fear or aggression should not be dismissed as typical of the breed.

Before buying a puppy, meet the dam and preferably other adult relatives. Watch how they respond to visitors, how quickly they settle and how they accept handling. Ask whether parents or relatives have completed BPH or MH behavioural assessments and read the actual results when available. This is more informative than labels such as “social” or “family-friendly”.

## Training & Exercise

The Keeshond needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no authoritative number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, weather and the ability to settle should determine duration and intensity.

A good daily routine combines walks with scent work, short training sessions and problem-solving. The breed may enjoy everyday obedience, rally obedience, nose work or trick training, for example. Variety is better than simply increasing the pace. An adolescent dog that never practises settling can become more aroused, not more content.

Use reward-based training and divide skills into small steps. Four areas are particularly useful:

1. **Alerting and quiet:** teach the dog to leave the door and settle after acknowledging a sound.
2. **Recall:** build it on lead or a long line with gradually harder distractions. Low hunting drive in the standard does not guarantee reliable off-lead control.
3. **Grooming cooperation:** reward short sessions with the comb, paw checks and examination before the coat becomes difficult to manage.
4. **Time alone:** begin with very brief separations when the dog feels secure and increase according to that individual's response.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Prioritise short periods of movement, sleep, exposure to everyday environments and cooperative play, increasing the load gradually. In hot weather, calm walks during cooler parts of the day are safer than following a fixed exercise programme.

## Health

The main breed-specific health issue to understand in the Keeshond is primary hyperparathyroidism, PHPT, but both its inheritance and the test used must be described correctly. PHPT affects calcium metabolism when one or more parathyroid glands begin to function independently and excess parathyroid hormone leads to raised blood calcium.

A 2025 study found that all 18 Keeshonden with a well-supported PHPT diagnosis were heterozygous for a variant in the SIRT6 gene. The researchers considered the variant likely to be disease-causing and confirmed an autosomal dominant pattern of inheritance. It should therefore not be managed like a recessive trait where two “carriers” simply need to avoid being mated together.

Not all PHPT tests analyse the same genetic change. The newer test from the British research group is based on the SIRT6 variant. Cornell University also offers a different test that looks for a 194-base-pair inserted DNA sequence on chromosome 20. Cornell states that its assay is analytically validated but could not be clinically validated because diagnosed cases were unavailable. The result should therefore be interpreted with caution. A statement that a dog is “PHPT tested” is too vague. Ask to see the laboratory report showing the dog's identity, sample date, laboratory, the variant or insertion analysed, and the result itself.

The current Swedish Kennel Club breed page also mentions hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and skin problems, but describes them as not particularly common. In the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, the Keeshond is not marked as a breed for which official HD status is a specific prerequisite for registering offspring. Still ask which examinations have been completed for the parents and close relatives. Foreign recommendations, such as British advice on hips, elbows, eyes and PHPT, must not be presented as Swedish registration requirements.

Do not choose a puppy on the basis of one line in a DNA report. Ask about the parents' age, general health, skin, movement and diseases among close relatives. Check that each document belongs to the correct dog rather than accepting phrases such as “health tested” or “healthy line”.

## History & Origins

The Keeshond has Germany as its official country of origin and belongs to the German Spitz; Wolfspitz and Keeshond are two names for the same FCI variety. This explains why a breed with a strong Dutch identity is still listed as German in the modern breed standard.

In the Netherlands, these grey spitz dogs were used as alert watchdogs on barges. During the eighteenth century, the type became associated with the Dutch Patriot movement. One of its leaders, Cornelius “Kees” de Gyselaer, owned such a dog, and the link to “Kees's dog” is commonly given as the background to the name Keeshond.

The breed was introduced in Britain as the “Dutch Barge Dog” in the early twentieth century, and a British breed club was formed in 1925. The first import to Sweden came from England in the 1950s. The Dutch history should not be confused with the official FCI country of origin.

## Living with the Breed

The Keeshond can live successfully in many homes when the family meets its needs for company, coat care, activity and training around barking and settling. A garden is not a shortcut to a contented dog, and a flat is not an automatic barrier. The daily routine and how much the dog's alert barking affects neighbours are what matter.

With children, the same safety rules apply as for other dogs: an adult should be present with young children, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the adults retain primary responsibility. Teach children not to climb on the dog, disturb it while eating or sleeping, or pull its abundant coat. Assess the individual dog's confidence and recovery rather than choosing the breed solely because it is labelled a family dog.

Low hunting drive does not mean that every Keeshond will immediately live safely with a cat or small animal. Find out about the dog's previous experience and response to movement. During introductions, the cat should have high, separate escape routes, the dog should remain under control, and meetings should be short, calm and gradual. The same principle applies to new canine relationships: arrange controlled meetings and read the individuals' signals.

The Keeshond's social nature makes alone-time training important, but there is no set duration that every individual can handle comfortably. Some dogs may eventually remain calm for a couple of hours while others react after only minutes. Train gradually and consider using a camera to see whether the dog settles or shows stress by pacing, panting, barking or trying to escape. Arrange daytime care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage comfortably. The Swedish rule that an adult dog should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day concerns opportunities to relieve itself; it is not a target for time left alone.

Before buying, ask the breeder to show you:

- originals or verifiable copies of the PHPT report and other completed health examinations
- how the dam and other adult dogs respond to visitors, handling and rest
- how the coat is combed down to the skin and which tools are needed
- how the puppies have been introduced to sounds, surfaces, people, brief handling and settling
- registration details and any BPH, MH or joint results for parents and close relatives

For a first-time owner, a Keeshond can be a reasonable choice if there is time for reward-based training and extensive coat care. Anyone who needs a very quiet dog, long periods alone or a hair-free home should think particularly carefully.

Keeshond

The Keeshond is a medium, sturdy spitz with a thick wolf‑grey double coat and trademark eye “spectacles.” A devoted family companion, it is affectionate, alert, and vocal but rarely aggressive. Intelligent and lively, it trains well with gentle methods and needs regular brushing and daily interaction.

Dungens

## Quick Facts

The Border Collie is a British sheepdog for someone who wants to work with, train and give their dog meaningful tasks throughout its life. The breed is highly trainable and has great stamina, but those same qualities often make it more demanding than a dog bred primarily for companionship.

- **Dog type:** purebred sheepdog, recognised by the FCI in Group 1
- **Size:** medium; the ideal height for males is about 53 cm, with females usually slightly shorter
- **Weight:** approximately 12–20 kg, with variation according to sex and build
- **Life expectancy:** approximately 10–15 years
- **Coat:** smooth or moderately long double coat in many colours
- **Typical traits:** alert, biddable, responsive, intelligent and strongly motivated to work
- **Best suited to:** a committed owner who enjoys regular training and can teach both activity and rest

The key question before buying is not whether the family walks for a set number of hours, but whether daily life allows time for regular training and cooperation. A Border Collie needs to use its brain, express its herding instincts in controlled ways and also learn to settle at home.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Collie is an athletic, well-balanced dog, built for agility and sustained work rather than for a uniform appearance. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, smooth and efficient. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 53 cm for males and slightly less for females, although both size and build vary noticeably within the breed.

The standard describes two coat varieties: smooth and moderately long. Both have a dense, medium-textured outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat that provides weather resistance. The moderately long coat forms more of a mane, breeching and brush, while the smooth coat lies closer to the body. Many colours and markings occur; black and white and tricolour are common, but the standard permits considerable variety provided white does not predominate.

The coat is basically straightforward to maintain. Brush as often as needed to remove loose undercoat and prevent matting, particularly behind the ears and in areas of feathering. More frequent brushing is needed during periods of heavier shedding. Bathe when necessary. A dog that works or trains outdoors should also be checked afterwards: examine the paws, nails, skin and coat for injuries, grass awns, ticks and debris.

## Temperament & Personality

The Border Collie is attentive, cooperative and extremely quick to notice patterns. It therefore learns not only what its owner intends to teach, but also which sounds predict a walk, how people normally move and which behaviours produce a response. Highly trainable does not automatically mean easy to live with; unclear routines and accidental rewards can establish behaviour just as quickly as considered training.

Herding depends on the dog noticing and influencing movement. In everyday life without sheep, the same sensitivity can be directed towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals. Staring, stalking, cutting off a path and chasing are signals to address early. They should be interrupted calmly and replaced with a trained alternative, not encouraged as an amusing quirk.

A Border Collie can live successfully in a family, but the breed is not universally “good with children” regardless of the individual and environment. Running, shouting and fast play can trigger herding behaviour or stress. Children and dogs therefore need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Living with a cat or other dogs can also work, especially with thoughtful introductions, but cannot be guaranteed on the basis of breed alone. The cat should be able to withdraw and the dog should be taught to leave it alone.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Collie needs both physical activity and tasks requiring concentration every day, but it is not possible to specify a number of hours that suits every individual. Age, health, temperament, previous training and work determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates movement, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery.

Walks in varied surroundings, free movement where it is safe, scent work, obedience, tracking, herding and other dog sports engage the dog in different ways. Choose activities in which the dog must listen and make decisions, not merely run quickly. Endless ball throwing or other highly arousing repetition is a poor measure of whether the dog’s needs have been met; it can increase anticipation without teaching the dog to settle.

Keep training sessions short, clear and reward based. Give everyday skills such as recall, lead walking, stopping at a distance and disengaging from movement as much attention as tricks or competitive exercises. Reward calm behaviour too: lying in a designated place, waiting while something happens and sleeping after activity. A Border Collie that is always offered more high-speed activity can become extremely fit without learning how to rest.

Puppies and young dogs need controlled experiences, not a miniature version of an adult training schedule. Build confidence in different environments, allow the body to mature and increase physical load and difficulty gradually. If the dog becomes more scattered, noise-sensitive or fixated despite receiving more activity, the answer may be a better balance and professional help rather than still harder exercise.

## Health

The Border Collie is regarded as comparatively healthy, but the breed has documented conditions that a puppy buyer should understand. Hip dysplasia (HD), Collie eye anomaly (CEA), other retinal changes, epilepsy and osteochondrosis affecting mainly the shoulder are among the areas highlighted by the Swedish Kennel Club and the Swedish Sheepdog Society.

When assessing a Swedish-registered litter, start by checking the parents’ official hip status and eye examination. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, the eye result must be recorded before mating and would normally be no more than one year old. Check the registered results and also ask about epilepsy, recurring seizures, shoulder problems and early deaths among siblings, parents and other close relatives. Normal results for two parents do not describe the health of an entire family line.

DNA tests are available for several inherited conditions in the breed, including CEA, IGS, TNS and sensory neuropathy. Which tests are relevant depends on ancestry and current recommendations. Ask the breeder to explain what has been tested and why. For recessive diseases, a healthy carrier is not the same as an affected dog; what matters is planning the mating so puppies cannot inherit the disease variant from both parents. A DNA test does not replace a clinical eye examination, joint results or knowledge of the wider family.

A dog with Border Collie collapse (BCC) may be completely symptom-free at rest but become disorientated, unsteady or fall during or shortly after intense activity. The dog may appear to recover after 5–30 minutes, but any collapse must be taken seriously and assessed by a vet. BCC is not the same as ordinary fatigue, heatstroke or the dynamin-1-related EIC variant more commonly seen in Labrador Retrievers. Stop the activity immediately if the dog’s focus or movement changes abnormally.

## History & Origins

The Border Collie developed in the border country between England and Scotland as a working dog for sheep farming. Selection was based for a long time on practical herding ability: the dog needed to read livestock, work at a distance and respond to its handler’s signals in demanding conditions. This functional background explains the breed’s eye, stalking movement, endurance and strong drive to control movement.

The FCI recognises the Border Collie as a British sheepdog subject to a working trial. In Sweden, function also has an unusually explicit place in registration. The breed is entered in the Swedish Kennel Club’s dedicated sheepdog register, REG V, and a Swedish-born Border Collie can only be registered when both parents have passed a herding trial held by Svenska Vallhundsklubben (SVaK) or have an approved equivalent qualification from abroad. Appearance can consequently vary more than in many other breeds, while working ability remains central to the Swedish breeding model.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Border Collie requires planning, but not constant entertainment. The goal is a dog that can work with focus when needed and rest when nothing is happening. That balance is best suited to a home where someone genuinely enjoys dog training and where responsibility does not depend on children exercising the dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically ruled out, and a large garden does not guarantee a good life. Access to suitable training environments, safe exercise and a routine that can genuinely be maintained matter more. In a busy area, the owner must be able to manage traffic, bicycles, runners, sounds and encounters without the dog becoming stuck in herding or constant vigilance.

Time alone should be trained gradually, beginning with very short periods and adjusted to the dog’s age and reactions. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a promise that a dog will be comfortable alone for that long. Consider filming early sessions and step back if the dog paces, pants, barks, damages things or cannot settle. A routine involving repeated long working days without help is a poor starting point for this breed.

Before buying a Swedish puppy, check at least three things for both parents: a registered hip status, a valid eye result and a pass in an approved herding trial. Then ask about epilepsy and joint health in close relatives, relevant DNA tests, how the parents behave both at rest and at work, and what support the breeder provides after the purchase. The best match is not about finding the “cleverest” puppy, but choosing one whose temperament and working drive suit what you can offer throughout the dog’s life.

Border Collie

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Border Collie is a medium, athletic herding dog known for intense focus, high intelligence and very high energy. Developed to work sheep all day, it excels in herding, sports and training. It needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and structured guidance in an active home.

Åsgård-Holkestorp

## Quick Facts

The English Springer Spaniel is an active British gundog bred to find game, flush it from cover and retrieve it. It is best suited to someone who wants to engage both the dog's body and mind every day, whether through shooting, dog sports or a varied outdoor life.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of approximately 51 centimetres at the withers. It does not specify a weight, so a fixed weight range is not a useful benchmark for every dog.
- **Type:** The breed has long included distinct breeding lines, particularly working-bred and more show-oriented dogs. A breeder's aims and the parents' traits say more about what a puppy may inherit than the label alone.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog. Individual dogs still differ in areas such as activity level, sociability and sensitivity.
- **Activity:** The breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** Dense, straight and weather-resistant, with feathering that needs regular brushing and trimming.
- **The right home:** A good choice for someone who wants to train, work with their dog and spend plenty of time outdoors; a poorer fit if the dog is often expected to make do with brief toilet walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Springer Spaniel is a strong, compact dog with a balanced, elegant outline. The standard gives a height of about 51 centimetres at the withers but no official weight range. Do not judge a dog against an arbitrary figure on the scales. Assess body condition instead: there should be a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure.

The coat should be dense and straight, providing protection from the weather without being coarse. The longer hair on the ears, legs and body forms moderate feathering. Permitted colours are liver and white or black and white, with or without tan markings.

A thorough brush about once a week is a sensible starting point for many dogs, but the amount of coat, season and activity determine what is actually needed. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, ear feathering and feet after woodland walks, swimming or wet weather, as debris and tangles can collect there. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. Clipping and trimming are required regularly, but the interval should follow the length and quality of the coat rather than a rigid calendar.

The well-feathered drop ears need regular checks. Trim the longer hair on the inside when necessary, and inspect the ears after swimming. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge or repeated scratching warrants veterinary advice rather than continued cleaning without knowing the cause.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Marked shyness and aggression are not desired traits. This makes the English Springer Spaniel an appealing working companion, but it does not guarantee how every dog will behave with children, strangers or other animals.

Results from BPH behavioural assessments also show that a breed average does not tell the whole story. Dogs of the same breed can react differently in social situations, during play and when something unexpected happens. The breed also includes different breeding lines that have not always been assessed separately. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, which traits have been prioritised and whether BPH or other relevant test results are available.

The breed needs opportunities to use its curiosity and willingness to work. High activity should not, however, be confused with a need to remain constantly on the go. The ability to switch between work and rest should be taught from the start through clear routines, calm breaks and suitably challenging tasks.

## Training & Exercise

The breed's original working sequence – hunt, flush and retrieve – explains much of its training needs. Many individuals enjoy investigating ground and cover, carrying objects and working closely with their handler. Walks can therefore be more rewarding when they sometimes include scent work, retrieving, simple searches or another shared training task.

There is no single daily exercise duration that suits every dog. A fit, healthy adult can cope with far more than a puppy, an older dog or one returning to activity after a break. Base the workload on age, health, fitness and recovery. Combine unhurried walks, time moving through varied terrain, mental training and rest instead of trying to exhaust the dog with intense exercise every day.

Checking in with the handler, recall and the ability to remain in place despite scent or movement are especially useful skills. Begin in easy situations and increase distractions gradually. Positive, reward-based methods and short sessions help preserve confidence and willingness to cooperate. A long line can add safety during training, but it does not prove that the dog will later be reliable off lead everywhere.

In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wild animals unless taking part in hunting. Extra control is required in places where wildlife may be present between 1 March and 20 August. If a dog has a strong interest in game, its owner must be able to prevent it from setting off in pursuit.

## Health

The English Springer Spaniel is generally described as a healthy breed. When buying a puppy, it is nevertheless important to distinguish formal requirements from breed-club recommendations. A long list of every condition ever reported in the breed is less useful than current results for the specific parents and their families.

For litters registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that they must have been assessed and a result must be available; it does not mean that every grade is automatically equally suitable for breeding. Springerklubben has more detailed breeding recommendations concerning hip results and combinations. Ask to see the parents' actual results and how the proposed mating follows the club's current guidance.

The breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination no more than one year before mating. Gonioscopy before a dog's first mating forms part of the club's guidance for assessing the drainage angle of the eye. Check the date, diagnoses and any follow-up advice on the certificates; do not settle for being told that the dogs have simply been “tested”.

Fucosidosis is a recessively inherited enzyme deficiency that can affect the central nervous system. A carrier does not become ill from the variant but can pass it on. A DNA test is available, allowing the breeder to document the parents' status and avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies. Understanding the verified results matters more than demanding the same set of tests for every dog.

In everyday life, check the ears and monitor body condition regularly. Recurrent ear trouble, changes in the eyes, lameness or other symptoms should be assessed by a vet. Do not assume that a problem is harmless simply because someone calls it “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The English Springer Spaniel comes from Britain's old spaniel tradition. These dogs were used to find and flush game for hunting with nets, falcons or Greyhounds. As shooting developed, their work became searching ahead of the gun, flushing game and then retrieving it.

The word “springer” refers to making game leave its hiding place. The Kennel Club recognised the English Springer Spaniel as a distinct breed in 1902. Sweden's Springerklubben was founded in 1982.

Breeding has followed different directions for many years. Working populations have primarily been selected for performance, while others have been selected more for conformation and the show ring. This is an important historical and practical distinction, but it does not create two simple personality templates. There is variation within both directions, and modern dogs may take part in several activities. A buyer should therefore assess the particular breeder's aims, the parents and the wider family rather than relying on a label alone.

## Living with the Breed

An English Springer Spaniel can live in a flat if it receives sufficient activity, recovery time and access to countryside or other suitable training environments. A garden does not replace walks and activities with its owner. What matters is how the dog's day is spent, not whether the home is a house or a flat.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and settled, and increase the duration only when it can relax. Individuals vary, so do not organise daily life on the assumption that the breed name guarantees a certain number of hours alone.

An adult should always supervise time with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. The standard's description of a friendly dog never replaces supervision. Take the same care with other animals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings brief and controlled, and give the cat its own escape routes. Whether a particular dog lives well with cats or other dogs depends on the individual, its previous experience and the introduction.

When considering a puppy, it is particularly useful to check:

- the breeder's goals and whether the dogs' level of working drive suits your life
- both parents' official hip results, not merely that they have been X-rayed
- the date and full result of eye examinations, including any gonioscopy
- verified fucosidosis status where relevant to the mating
- how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, ideally supplemented by BPH or working results
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different environments and ordinary family life.

The best match is a dog whose likely activity level, willingness to work and sensitivity fit the owner's real routine. For an English Springer Spaniel, that assessment is more valuable than promises that the breed is always easy, good with children or the same regardless of breeding direction.

English Springer Spaniel

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The English Springer Spaniel is a medium, athletic gundog with a feathered, weather‑resistant coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, affectionate and people‑oriented, it requires 1.5–2 hours of daily mental and physical exercise. Generally healthy, active, and suited to engaged, outdoorsy homes.

## Quick Facts

- The Lagotto Romagnolo is an Italian truffle dog in breed group 8, with roots as a water retriever in Romagna.
- This small-to-medium, robust breed is almost square in outline. Males are 43–48 cm tall and weigh 13–16 kg; females are 41–46 cm and weigh 11–14 kg.
- A Lagotto needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage the nose. Searching, tracking, nose work and other cooperative training suit the breed's working heritage.
- The breed standard calls for a biddable, enthusiastic and affectionate dog, but social confidence, sensitivity to sound and interest in strangers vary between individuals.
- The dense, curly coat grows continuously and needs clipping, checking and detangling before it mats. The breed is not allergy-free.
- Buyers of a Swedish-bred puppy should distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements and the breed club's more extensive breeding recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Lagotto Romagnolo is a compact dog with a robust, rustic appearance and a body that is almost as long as it is tall. Adult size differs slightly by sex: males should stand 43–48 cm and weigh 13–16 kg, while females should stand 41–46 cm and weigh 11–14 kg. The result is an agile working dog that should look neither heavy nor overly slight.

The curly coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should be dense and woolly, with a visible undercoat beneath the coarser curls. Permitted colours include off-white, white with brown or orange patches, orange roan and brown roan, and solid brown or orange, with or without white. Tan markings may occur. Black is not an accepted colour.

The coat grows throughout the dog's life and may felt if neglected. Check the skin and work through areas that mat easily, especially behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Detangle or clip before mats tighten, adjusting the interval to the coat, season, swimming and time spent in vegetation. There is no single weekly schedule that suits every Lagotto.

The breed standard describes a natural, functional trim that follows the body's outline; the coat should not be sculpted like a Poodle's. For showing, it specifies a maximum of about four centimetres on the body, with longer hair on the head that must not cover the eyes. For a pet, observable condition matters more than a date in the diary: the dog should see and move freely, the skin should be easy to inspect, and the coat should be neither felted nor full of dirt and plant debris. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the coat in that particular line is maintained.

Look at and smell the ears regularly, cleaning the outer ear when necessary. Abundant hair can contribute to problems in some dogs, but routine plucking is not automatically right for every individual. An unpleasant smell, brown debris, redness, tenderness or repeated head shaking warrants veterinary advice.

Lagotti are sometimes described as allergy-friendly because loose hair is less noticeable than it is in many shedding breeds. That is misleading. Dog allergens are found mainly in skin and saliva, levels vary even between dogs of the same breed, and no breed is allergy-free.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Lagotto as biddable, easy-going, enthusiastic, trainable and deeply affectionate towards its owner. It enjoys working closely with a person, uses its nose with persistence and may raise the alarm when something is unusual, although it was not bred as a guard dog. In the right home, it is often an involved companion that wants shared activities rather than exercise in isolation.

The ideal in the standard does not guarantee the behaviour of every dog. Swedish BPH behaviour assessments show wide variation in the way Lagotti greet unfamiliar people. Many make little contact, and curiosity, worry and recovery after a surprise also differ. Reserve is not necessarily fear, but a dog that is frequently uncertain needs distance and support rather than forced greetings.

For a puppy buyer, temperament in the family is therefore as important as a general breed description. Meet the dam with her puppies, ask how the parents and close relatives respond to visitors, noise and unfamiliar places, and request any BPH results. BPH describes behaviour; it is not an examination that a dog passes or fails.

A Lagotto can live happily with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name alone cannot promise compatibility. Calm early introductions and the individual dog's previous experiences matter. An adult should always supervise interactions with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Chasing games and encounters with small animals require the same care as they do with other dogs.

## Training & Exercise

The Lagotto Romagnolo needs an active life in which scent work has a clear place. The breed developed to search independently while cooperating with a handler, and many dogs enjoy nose work, searching for people or objects, tracking, obedience, rally and agility. You do not, however, need to compete or hunt for real truffles to meet this need.

Plan a routine that includes walks in varied places, time to investigate scents and short tasks requiring concentration. A simple search for hidden objects or treats can be valuable, but nose work does not replace movement, social contact, rest or ordinary life skills. Exact prescriptions in minutes or hours are less useful than the dog's behaviour: an appropriate level leaves the dog keen to work outdoors and able to settle at home, without persistent restlessness or signs of being overworked.

Teach recall early and reward contact even when the surroundings are tempting. Selective breeding has reduced the breed's former hunting instinct, but it has not removed it from every individual; older breed surveys found an interest in wildlife in a minority of dogs. Use a long line or enclosed area until recall is reliable in the setting where the dog will be off lead.

Balance activities with learning to be calm. A Lagotto that is continually given more excitement will not automatically learn to rest. Short, clear sessions, predictable breaks and reward-based training help to develop both cooperation and self-control. Adapt exercise to age, health and the individual day, particularly while a puppy is growing and after illness or injury.

## Health

The priority for a Lagotto buyer is to check documented results and the health history of the dog's family, rather than merely ticking off a long list of tests. In Sweden, the breed is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's health programme for hip dysplasia. Both parents must have an official hip score before mating for their offspring to qualify for registration under the rules.

The breed club goes further in its breeding recommendations. It advises a preliminary litter index of at least 98, recommends that dogs without a Swedish hip index have a grade of A or B, and advises against using dogs graded D or E. These are important points to ask about, but they are club recommendations and should not be confused with the formal requirement for a known result.

Eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed club therefore recommends that breeding dogs have an official eye examination recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club no more than one year before mating. Ask to see the date and findings rather than accepting only an assurance that the dog has been “tested”.

DNA tests are also available for the recessively inherited conditions BFJE, sometimes called benign familial juvenile epilepsy, and Lagotto storage disease, or LSD. The breed club recommends known status and that a carrier is mated only to a genetically clear dog. The terms clear, carrier and affected apply to the particular variant tested. A carrier is not automatically ill, while a clear result does not certify that the dog is free from every other disease. Ask both for test results and about recurring ear, skin, digestive, eye or neurological problems among close relatives.

The ears deserve regular attention because some individuals develop problems. Check them during coat care and consult a vet if you notice a strong smell, discharge, redness, pain or head shaking. Do not treat a recurring problem solely as a matter of clipping or cleaning.

## History & Origins

The Lagotto Romagnolo comes from Romagna in north-eastern Italy. Its name is associated with water, and the dogs originally worked as water retrievers in the low-lying wetlands around Comacchio and Ravenna. The dense coat, willingness to work and powerful nose were practical traits in that environment.

As large areas of wetland were drained and converted to farmland, the dogs' work changed. Their searching ability was put to use finding truffles in the fields and hills of Romagna. Today's breed standard lists truffle dog as the breed's function, while its place in group 8 reflects its background among the water dogs.

Numbers fell sharply after the Second World War, but a conservation effort began in the 1970s. The FCI recognised the breed in 1995. The first documented imports arrived in Sweden that year, the first Swedish litters were born in 1996, and the Swedish Lagotto Romagnolo Club was founded in 2000.

## Living with the Breed

The Lagotto Romagnolo is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday dog ownership with activity, scent work and regular coat care. Its manageable size means it can live in a flat, but floor space is no substitute for time outdoors, training and the opportunity to unwind. In a building with poor sound insulation, alert barking at noises in the stairwell or outside the door needs early attention too.

Being left alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left at the outset, and adult dogs differ greatly in how easily they cope with a few hours. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest calmly; persistent whining, pacing, destruction or other signs of stress mean that the plan needs to be scaled back and, at times, professional help sought.

Before buying a puppy, a practical checklist is more useful than promises that the breed “suits everyone”:

- Meet the dam and ask about everyday behaviour, fears, recovery and any BPH results in the family.
- Check both parents' official hip results and how the planned mating relates to the breed club's index recommendation.
- Ask to see recent eye results and BFJE and LSD DNA status, together with an explanation of how the mating has been planned.
- Ask about recurring health problems in parents, siblings and previous offspring, not only recorded test results.
- Have the breeder demonstrate coat and ear care, and expect clipping to be a lifelong routine.

The Lagotto can be a good choice for a first-time owner who has the time and interest for training, coat care and learning to read the dog's signals. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an undemanding dog content with the same short walk every day or one that will routinely be left alone for long working days.

Lagotto Romagnolo

The Swedish Lagotto Club

The Norwegian Lagotto Club

The Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Medium-sized Italian water and truffle dog with a sturdy build and dense, curly, low-shedding coat needing regular grooming. Affectionate, sensitive, and people oriented, it is highly trainable and thrives on scent work, mental challenges, and active outdoor family life.

## Quick Facts

The French Bulldog is a small, sturdy and sociable companion dog from France. It should be lively and active, but its shortened skull and muzzle carry a risk of breathing problems and impaired temperature regulation. Anyone considering the breed should therefore assess function and documented health as carefully as temperament and appearance.

- **Breed group and purpose:** FCI Group 9, companion dog
- **Height at the withers:** males 27–35 cm, females 24–32 cm
- **Weight:** males 9–14 kg, females 8–13 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and without an undercoat
- **Colours in the breed standard:** fawn, brindle and pied, with the markings described in the standard
- **Ideal temperament:** sociable, lively, playful and affectionate
- **Important Swedish health assessment:** RFG-Scheme has been mandatory before breeding within SKK since 1 January 2025

The breed is not an obvious choice for anyone seeking a dog with low care needs. A French Bulldog should be able to move freely and breathe freely even while moving. Audible or laboured breathing is not a charming or normal breed trait.

## Appearance & Coat

The French Bulldog should be compact and muscular without becoming heavy, immobile or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the head is broad and the upright “bat ears” are a defining feature. The whole dog should function in motion: open nostrils, adequate muzzle length, free movement and a body that does not prevent activity matter more than an extreme appearance.

The breed standard specifies different measurements for each sex. Males should stand 27–35 cm and weigh 9–14 kg, while females should stand 24–32 cm and weigh 8–13 kg. These figures are not a target weight for every individual. A suitable body condition depends on the dog’s build, muscle mass and body fat; excess weight puts additional strain on breathing, joints and the back.

The coat is short, smooth, soft and glossy, with no undercoat. Shedding can normally be managed with simple brushing as needed. At the same time, check the nails, paws, ears, teeth and skin. Facial folds should be kept clean and dry, but care should follow the skin’s actual condition. Redness, odour, discharge, itching or soreness call for advice, not simply more frequent cleaning.

The breed standard’s colours are fawn, brindle and pied. Blue and merle are not accepted colours. A puppy marketed as a “rare colour” should be assessed using the same important evidence as any other puppy: registration, respiratory function, the parent dogs and the breeder’s breeding programme.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the French Bulldog should be sociable, lively, playful and affectionate. Many individuals enjoy contact and like to take part in family life. The breed can learn quickly, but independence and stubbornness mean that clear routines and worthwhile rewards often work better than repetition or harsh corrections.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not every dog. Inheritance, early experience, health, pain, environment and training all affect an individual’s behaviour. A dog that struggles to breathe or is uncomfortable because of its skin, back or joints may also have less patience and recover less well. Temperament should therefore be considered alongside physical function.

BPH shows how a particular dog responded during a standardised behavioural assessment. It is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy’s future personality. The older Swedish BPH analysis covered only a small proportion of French Bulldogs born in Sweden. For a puppy buyer, it is therefore more useful to meet the dam and ask how the parents and close relatives cope with unfamiliar people, dog encounters, unexpected noises, handling, activity and rest.

The breed can suit a well-informed first-time owner who is prepared for reward-based training, daily activity and possible veterinary needs. It is less suitable when the choice is based mainly on small size, a particular look or the assumption that a short-muzzled dog automatically needs very little exercise.

## Training & Exercise

A French Bulldog needs daily walks, scent work, play and everyday training, but no single number of exercise minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, weather and, above all, the dog’s breathing and recovery determine what is appropriate. Cooling through panting is less efficient in short-muzzled dogs, so the same activity may be easy on a cool day and unsuitable in hot weather.

Plan several manageable activities rather than one long session that has to be completed. Let the dog sniff, walk calmly over varied ground and use its brain through searches and simple problem-solving. Build fitness gradually and watch the dog throughout the activity. Slow down or stop if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, the nostrils narrow, the dog uses its abdomen forcefully to breathe, falls behind or does not recover normally. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness requires immediate veterinary attention.

In hot weather, walks need to be moved to cooler times, the pace reduced and the dog given shade, water and a cool place to rest. Never leave the dog in a hot car or another enclosed space. A dog that repeatedly struggles during moderate activity or warm weather needs a veterinary assessment; merely avoiding all exercise is not a solution.

Prioritise attention, calm lead walking, recall, ending play, settling and accepting checks of the mouth, ears, facial folds, paws and nails. Teach the dog to be alone in very small steps once it already feels secure at home. Reward-based methods make each task clear and make necessary handling easier.

## Health

The most important health problem to understand in the French Bulldog is BOAS, brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome. It occurs when there is insufficient space for the soft tissues within the shortened nose and throat. The consequences can include noisy or laboured breathing, poor stamina, disturbed sleep and difficulty regulating body temperature.

RFG-Scheme is a veterinary assessment that evaluates respiratory function before and after three minutes of brisk exercise and grades the result from 0 to 3. Since 1 January 2025, French Bulldogs have been covered by a Level 2 health programme within SKK: dogs used for breeding must have a result before mating. An official result can be registered from 24 months of age and must be no more than two years old at the time of mating. Grade 0 is recommended; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be used for breeding under SKK rules. A dog that has undergone airway surgery cannot be assessed within the scheme.

An RFG result describes the dog’s condition at the time of the assessment and does not remove the need for your own observations. It is not a lifetime guarantee and does not cover every other health risk. Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents’ registered names, assessment dates and actual RFG grades. Ideally, see the parents both at rest and after normal movement: breathing should be free, recovery reasonable and the nostrils open. Do not accept “tested” or “vet checked” as a substitute for the registered result.

Other documented areas of risk include allergies and skin disease, problems affecting the back, skeleton and joints including patellar luxation, and injuries to the prominent eyes. This does not mean that every dog will be affected. Ask about recurring skin problems, lameness, back pain and eye injuries in the parents and close relatives. The Swedish breed club also recommends that puppy buyers ask about patellas, the heart and breathing in the adult dogs; these questions should be distinguished from the formal RFG requirement.

Contact a vet about recurring breathing noises, clear exercise or heat intolerance, sleep disturbed by breathing, smelly or painful skin, recurring lameness, back pain, or a red, watery or painful eye. Early assessment is better than waiting for a problem to become “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The French Bulldog was established as a breed in Paris in the late nineteenth century. The first breed club was founded in Paris in 1880, the first dog was registered in 1885 and the first breed standard was adopted in 1898. The French kennel club recognised the breed in the same year.

The breed developed as a companion dog and acquired the compact body, broad head and upright bat ears that still characterise the standard. The French Bulldog was first shown in Sweden in 1913. Its historical type explains the modern appearance, but breeding today should not intensify these features to the point that breathing, eyes, back, tail or movement are adversely affected.

## Living with the Breed

A French Bulldog can live in a flat or a house because the size of the home alone does not determine whether daily life will work. What matters is that the dog receives daily activity, can rest undisturbed and has a secure, cool environment. In a flat, sounds from stairwells and outside windows should be addressed through early training, and access to a lift or the number of stairs may become important if the dog is in pain or has difficulty breathing.

The same safety rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult is responsible for their interaction. Children should not disturb the dog while it eats or rests, climb on it or persist when it tries to move away. Provide a protected resting place and teach both children and dog to interact calmly. Small size and a playful temperament do not automatically make an individual safe with children.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and their previous experiences. Make introductions gradually, with a way to separate the animals and without forcing close contact. Socialisation may improve the prospects but cannot guarantee that every combination will work. Pay particular attention to stress, resource guarding and whether another dog’s play becomes too physical for an individual with limited breathing capacity.

Time alone needs to be taught gradually, beginning with very short periods. Increase the duration only when the dog can remain calm, and consider using a camera to detect distress or barking that is not apparent when you return. The breed should not be chosen with a plan to leave the dog alone for most of the day on a regular basis.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can we put unrestricted breathing and sound physical function ahead of an extreme appearance or an unusual colour?
- Can we verify the parents’ identities, RFG grades and assessment dates rather than relying on verbal assurances?
- Can we adapt activity to heat and the dog’s condition without making it inactive?
- Do we have the time and financial capacity to manage the veterinary needs that may accompany the breed’s body shape?

If the answers are yes and the breeder can show verifiable results, the French Bulldog can be a lively and close companion. The most important choice is not the most extreme head or rarest colour, but a dog that can breathe, move, recover and enjoy an active everyday life.

French Bulldog

The French Bulldog Club of England

The French Bulldog is a small, muscular companion dog with a short coat and bat-like ears. Affectionate, people oriented, and playful yet calm indoors, it suits apartment life. It needs moderate, carefully managed exercise, regular skin, ear, and nail care, and attention to breathing and weight.

Enando's

Basset Fauve de Bretagne

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Basset Fauve de Bretagne Club of Great Britain

Cheerful, energetic French scent hound with a low, sturdy build and rough golden‑red coat. Friendly and affectionate, good with children and dogs but strong prey drive. Intelligent yet independent; needs patient training, ample exercise, and regular but simple grooming.

Klas Granström

## Quick Facts

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a British companion and toy dog that combines a small frame with a lively, sociable nature. It usually wants to stay close to people, but it needs more than a lap and a few brief toilet walks.

- The breed standard gives a weight of 5.5–8 kg. It does not specify a height; the Swedish Kennel Club describes approximately 30–35 cm as usual.
- The coat is long and silky. The four recognised colours are black and tan, ruby, Blenheim and tricolour.
- The breed ideal is a happy, friendly, affectionate and fearless dog. Individual dogs can still differ markedly in energy, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- A Cavalier needs physical activity, scent work, training and social contact every day. No single exercise target in minutes is meaningful for every dog.
- Health calls for particular care. In Sweden, the breed is covered by a mandatory heart screening programme for breeding, while several other examinations are breed-club recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel should be small, well balanced and free-moving, with a gentle expression. The skull should be almost flat between the ears. The eyes are large, dark and round without being prominent, and the high-set ears are long and heavily feathered. The standard specifies a weight of 5.5–8 kg but no exact height. The figure of 30–35 cm is therefore a usual guide, not a height requirement.

The coat should be long and silky without curls; a slight wave is permitted. There is feathering on the ears, legs, feet and tail. The four colours are:

- **Black and tan:** black with clearly defined tan markings.
- **Ruby:** a solid, deep red.
- **Blenheim:** rich chestnut markings on a pearly white ground.
- **Tricolour:** black and white with tan markings.

The coat needs regular combing, particularly behind the ears, where the soft hair tangles easily. Check the feathering around the feet after walks as well. The standard calls for a natural, untrimmed coat, although thick hair beneath and between the pads may need tidying to prevent felted mats. Gently accustom a puppy to the comb, to having its paws handled and to having its ears and eyes checked; this makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

No dog breed is free of allergens, and the Cavalier is no exception. Dog allergens mainly come from the skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals. Anyone with allergy symptoms should therefore not assess the risk from coat length or breed name alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was bred for companionship and is generally open, affectionate and sociable. The breed standard describes a happy, friendly dog without aggression or nervousness, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

Results from Swedish BPH behaviour assessments provide a more nuanced picture. In an analysis of 192 Swedish-bred Cavaliers, the breed was mainly confident and did not generally react aggressively in social encounters. The average dog was not considered vocal either, although some dogs barked or whined in situations where this was not expected. There is genuine variation behind the breed description. If possible, meet the puppy's mother, ask how both parents behave in daily life and find out whether fear, stress or resource guarding occurs in close relatives.

The breed often fits well into family life and is generally sociable with other dogs. The same safety rules that apply to every dog still apply around young children: an adult should be present, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should learn not to carry the dog, pull its ears or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. Living with a cat depends on the individual dog, previous experience and a calm introduction; the breed name offers no guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

A Cavalier needs to move and use its brain every day, but the right amount depends on age, health, fitness and recovery rather than a fixed number of minutes. A healthy adult can combine walks and off-lead movement in a secure place with scent games, play and short training sessions. Many enjoy obedience, rally obedience or agility at a level suited to the individual.

Short, positive sessions make it easier to maintain focus. Start early with engagement, walking together and recall, and reward the dog for choosing you despite scents and other distractions. Even a companion dog with spaniel ancestry can become absorbed by something interesting outdoors, so use a long line until recall is reliable in that particular environment.

Puppies need to explore, play and rest at their own pace. Avoid generic five-minute rules and instead build activity gradually without pushing a tired puppy. A dog with a heart murmur, heart disease, pain or neurological signs needs an individual plan from a veterinary surgeon.

## Health

Heart health is the most important breed-specific check for a puppy buyer in Sweden. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is particularly predisposed to myxomatous mitral valve disease, or MMVD. The valve between the left atrium and ventricle changes so that blood may leak backwards and produce a heart murmur. A dog can have the disease without visible signs for a long time, while others later develop heart failure.

The breed is covered by a level 3 heart screening programme. To meet the registration rules for the offspring, both parents must have an official certificate showing no heart murmur. The certificate must be no more than 12 months old at the time of mating, and the minimum age for an official heart certificate is three years. This is a minimum standard, not proof that a mating is free from risk. Ask for the parents' registration numbers, check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata services, and consider how long older close relatives remained free of murmurs. The breed club recommends annual heart examinations from the age of three until a murmur is detected, including for dogs no longer used for breeding.

Chiari-like malformation and syringomyelia, CM/SM, are another important health concern. When the skull is too small in relation to the brain, the flow of cerebrospinal fluid may be disrupted and a fluid-filled cavity can form within the spinal cord. Some dogs with mild findings show no clear signs. Others experience pain, become sensitive around the head or neck, are reluctant to move, scratch at the air near the neck, or show weakness and poorer coordination. A veterinary surgeon should assess such signs. MRI can be used in breeding selection, but it is a breed-club recommendation and should not be confused with the mandatory heart programme. Ask the breeder about clinical signs and MRI results in the parents and close relatives.

The Swedish breed club also recommends eye examinations and patellar luxation checks for breeding dogs once they are at least one year old. The distinction matters here too: these are recommended checks, not the same registration requirement as the heart certificate. A buyer therefore needs to distinguish between formal requirements, breed-club recommendations and the combined results seen across the family.

## History & Origins

The modern Cavalier King Charles Spaniel originated in Great Britain and is closely associated with the small spaniels seen in European paintings over several centuries. The dogs gained their royal name through their connection with the House of Stuart and Charles II in particular.

As the short-muzzled type became fashionable, the King Charles Spaniel changed. In 1926, the American Roswell Eldridge offered prizes at Crufts for dogs resembling the older type, with a longer muzzle and flatter skull. A British breed club was founded in 1928, and in 1945 The Kennel Club recognised the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as a separate breed.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and the King Charles Spaniel are therefore not two names for the same dog. They are separate breeds with a shared background, and the Cavalier was developed to recapture more of the older spaniel type.

## Living with the Breed

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel can live well in either a flat or a house if it receives company, walks, mental activity and undisturbed rest. The size of the home is no substitute for a suitable daily routine. The breed can also suit a first-time owner who is prepared to train, care for the coat and take health screening seriously; its small size does not make it automatically low-maintenance.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, once the puppy feels secure at home. Step away for very short periods and increase the duration only when the dog can relax. Whining, persistent barking, destructive behaviour, refusing food or toileting indoors can be signs of distress. Individual dogs cope with different amounts of time alone, so arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more separation than your dog can comfortably manage.

Three checks are particularly valuable before buying a puppy:

1. Check the parents' current heart certificates and the results of older relatives in the Swedish Kennel Club's public records.
2. Ask separately about CM/SM signs and MRI, as well as eye and patella examinations; do not confuse these recommendations with the heart programme requirements.
3. Assess the parents' everyday temperament and how the puppies have been introduced to people, handling and a home environment.

These checks provide a more realistic picture than relying on the breed's friendly reputation alone. A carefully chosen Cavalier can be an engaged and very close companion, but it needs an owner who takes both its social needs and documented health risks seriously.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club UK

Small, gentle spaniel (5.4–8 kg) with a silky medium coat in Blenheim, Tricolour, Black and Tan, or Ruby. Affectionate, people oriented, and good with children and other pets. Needs regular grooming, moderate exercise, and dislikes long periods alone.

Cavalkeesens

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

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