## Quick Facts

The Papillon is a small, lively and quick-learning companion dog that often suits someone who wants to combine closeness with walks, training and everyday enrichment. The breed belongs to the Épagneul Nain Continental, or Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon has erect ears, while the Phalène variety has drop ears. In Sweden they are registered according to ear carriage, and a dog can be re-registered if its ears develop differently from the initial assessment.

- **Origin:** France and Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Height at the withers:** about 28 cm according to the breed standard
- **Weight:** the standard has two weight classes. The larger ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 kg for males and up to 5 kg for females. The other covers dogs under 2.5 kg, with 1.5 kg as the minimum weight.
- **Coat:** long, silky and without an undercoat
- **Activity level:** small in stature but often lively, willing to work and keen to learn
- **Longevity:** many reach an advanced age; according to the Swedish Kennel Club, 15 years is not unusual

Measurements in a breed standard describe an ideal, not a promise that every adult dog will be exactly that size. For a prospective owner, the parents’ size, the dog’s body condition and sound construction are therefore more useful than pursuing a particular figure or an extremely small individual.

## Appearance & Coat

The Papillon should be a harmoniously built toy dog that is graceful yet robust. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, light and elegant. Its small size calls for care around falls and play with much larger dogs, but the breed standard does not describe the Papillon as a fragile dog.

The large ears are the breed’s most distinctive feature. In the Papillon they stand erect and are carried obliquely outwards, resembling a butterfly’s wings. The Phalène instead has mobile drop ears. The difference is therefore ear carriage; both are varieties of the same Continental Toy Spaniel and can be born in the same litter.

The coat is single, without an undercoat, and should be abundant, glossy and slightly wavy rather than curly. It is short on the head and fronts of the legs but longer over the body, ears, chest, thighs and tail. White is the ground colour and must predominate on the body and legs. Coloured patches may be of different colours, while the lips, eye rims and nose should be well pigmented under the standard.

Coat care is usually manageable if tangles are prevented. Check the coat regularly and comb especially behind the ears and on the inner thighs, where the Swedish Kennel Club says tangles may readily form. Bathe the dog when it is dirty; no fixed calendar suits every individual. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. Base care on the dog’s actual coat and daily life rather than a fixed bathing or clipping routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Papillon is typically alert, lively and quick to learn, with a marked interest in people and activities. Its small body often contains more willingness to work than the label “lapdog” suggests. A Papillon may enjoy both close company and tasks involving concentration, problem-solving or body awareness.

Breed descriptions should not, however, be read as a guarantee of a particular personality. The Swedish Kennel Club’s BPH behavioural analysis shows considerable variation among participating Papillons, including how intensely they greet strangers, how readily they play and how curious they are. The results apply to the dogs assessed and primarily show why the individual, family lines, early experiences and continuing training all matter.

Alertness may show in how quickly the dog notices sounds, visitors and movement outside the home. This need not become a major barking problem, but it is sensible to reward calm behaviour from the start, give the dog an alternative task at the door and avoid allowing every signal to lead to excitement. Ask the breeder how the parents function in daily life, not only how they behave at shows or during training.

## Training & Exercise

The Papillon needs physical movement and mental enrichment every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy, fit adult can often join surprisingly substantial walks, while a puppy, older dog or individual with a health problem needs a different load. Adjust activity to age, fitness, weather and recovery rather than treating body size as a measure of need.

The breed often learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training with clear criteria works well. Vary everyday obedience, scent work, balance exercises and small problem-solving tasks, and finish while the dog can still concentrate. Agility, obedience and other dog sports can be a good fit when training is developed gradually and the surface, obstacles and load are adapted to the dog’s size and maturity.

A small dog needs the same care with recall and exposure to different environments as a large one. Practise engagement and returning in safe places before allowing freedom where traffic, wildlife or larger dogs could present a risk. Also teach the dog to settle between activities. A Papillon given only high-energy tasks may become very good at getting excited but less skilled at relaxing again.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Papillon as a generally sound and often long-lived breed, but responsible health screening remains important. For Swedish litters, pap-PRA1 is the clearest formal checkpoint. Pap-PRA1 is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, which damages the retina. It is autosomal recessive: a carrier has one copy of the variant and does not develop that particular form, while a genetically affected dog has inherited the variant from both parents.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result for pap-PRA1 or to be recorded as hereditarily clear. Two carriers may not be mated, and an affected dog may not be used for breeding. A pap-PRA1 DNA test does not, however, rule out every other genetic cause of PRA or other eye diseases. An eye examination therefore serves a different purpose. The Swedish breed club, Papillon-Ringen, recommends an eye examination after three years of age to monitor other eye changes.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known normal patella result before mating. This is an important recommendation, but the current Swedish Kennel Club rules do not list patella status as a specific registration requirement for the Papillon. Ask to see the result rather than assuming registration itself covers it.

In other countries, recommended programmes may include additional tests. For example, the UK’s Royal Kennel Club lists an NAD test among the additional checks for the Papillon. This does not make NAD a Swedish registration requirement. Ask the breeder to distinguish between mandatory Swedish results, breed-club recommendations and optional additional tests.

Oral health also deserves attention. Small dog breeds are more often affected by periodontal disease, and daily tooth brushing is a simple way to reduce the risk of severe tartar and painful periodontitis. Bad breath, bleeding gums or reluctance to chew should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Papillon originates from France and Belgium and is the erect-eared variety of the Continental Toy Spaniel. The type has been documented since the 16th century and appeared as a companion dog at European courts. The name Papillon means butterfly in French and refers to the large, obliquely carried ears with long fringes. Phalène means moth and is the name used for the drop-eared variety.

The FCI recognises the breed as number 77 in the companion and toy dog group. The modern standard retains both the Papillon and the Phalène. Its history explains the breed’s role as a companion, but the modern Papillon is not merely decorative: its liveliness and readiness to learn are evident in many present-day dog activities.

## Living with the Breed

The Papillon can live well in either a flat or a house when given daily activity, closeness and help learning to settle. The size of the home matters less than the shape of everyday life. A home where many sounds carry requires extra work on calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows, as an alert individual may otherwise begin to comment on every change.

The breed can live well with children, but this depends on the dog’s temperament, the child’s behaviour and adult supervision. Teach children to leave the dog undisturbed while it sleeps or eats, not to pick it up or grab it, and to play at floor level under supervision. This protects both dog and child and is more accurate than a general “child-friendly” label.

The same individual assessment is needed with other animals. A Papillon can live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Give the animals separate resources and places to retreat, and supervise play where there is a large difference in size. A friendly large dog can injure a very small dog accidentally.

Being left alone is a skill, not something that can be assumed from breed. Accustom the dog gradually to short periods alone and increase them only while it remains relaxed. Barking, whining, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing a normally valued reward can indicate that the step was too large.

Before buying a puppy, check more than its appearance. Ask to see the parents’ registered pap-PRA1 results, patella status and any eye results, and ask why that particular mating was chosen. Meet the dam and notice how the dogs recover after new sounds and visitors. For a puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, you should receive the registration certificate, the Swedish Kennel Club contract and a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old on the day of handover. Screening reduces risk but can never guarantee a particular state of health or personality; open documentation and realistic expectations therefore matter more than promises.

Papillon

Papillon Breed Club UK

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Papillon is a small, elegant toy dog with large butterfly-like ears, a fine, silky parti-coloured coat and a plumed tail. Lively, intelligent and highly trainable, it enjoys activity and mental stimulation, makes an alert watchdog, needs regular brushing, and often lives into the mid–late teens.

Knasen's är en uppfödare av rasen Papillon med bas i Mörarp i Sverige. Uppfödningen av papillon har en historik som sträcker sig tillbaka till 2006.

Knasen's

Belgian Griffon

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy toy dog from Brussels with a humanlike “monkey face” and big eyes. Rough, wiry coat in black or black and tan. Deeply attached, sensitive, and people focused, they are lively, intelligent, alert watchdogs who thrive on gentle training, company, and regular grooming.

## Quick Facts

The Petit Brabançon is a small Belgian companion dog that tends to be alert, affectionate and keen to be involved in whatever is happening. It belongs to FCI Group 9 and is the smooth-coated member of the three closely related Belgian griffon breeds. The other two are the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois.

- **Country of origin:** Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog
- **Weight in the breed standard:** 3.5–6 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard does not specify a height
- **Coat:** short, harsh and glossy; no more than 2 cm long
- **Colours:** red, black, black and tan, or a mixture of black and red, with a dark mask
- **Typical traits:** attentive, active, trainable, friendly and close to its owner
- **Key health areas:** breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of neurological pain

The three griffon breeds share the same background and, according to the Swedish Kennel Club, may be mated to one another. The Petit Brabançon is distinguished chiefly by its smooth coat, while the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois are rough-coated. The breeds are registered separately.

The official weight is a more reliable guide than the height figures commonly found online. The breed standard gives a weight of 3.5–6 kg but no range for height at the withers. Two adult dogs can therefore differ in height while both remaining entirely typical of the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Petit Brabançon should be small, compact and almost square, with good bone but without heavy movement. Its body length should be approximately equal to its height at the withers. The short, broad head, pronounced undershot bite and large, dark eyes create the breed's characteristic expression.

Breed type should not be confused with exaggeration. The nostrils should be well open, the eyes large but never protruding, and the lower jaw broad. Neither the tongue nor teeth should show when the mouth is closed. When assessing a dog, give priority to free breathing, open nostrils and healthy eyes rather than the flattest possible face.

The coat is harsh, glossy and no more than 2 cm long. It does not require trimming. Brush and bathe as needed, for example when loose hair or dirt needs removing.

Accepted colours are red, black, black and tan, and a mixture of black and red. A dark mask is part of the desired appearance; in older dogs, the mask may be grey or grey-flecked.

The short coat makes grooming straightforward, but it does not make the breed allergy-free. There are no allergy-free dog breeds, and allergen levels vary between individual dogs, even within the same litter. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore assess their reaction to the particular dog rather than choosing on coat length alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Petit Brabançon is fundamentally an attentive companion that likes to take part in family life. The breed standard describes the Belgian griffons as intelligent, balanced and alert, while the Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as active, trainable, affectionate and friendly.

That does not mean every individual will react in the same way. Genetics, early environment, socialisation, training and health all influence how confident, sociable and easy-going a dog becomes. An adult dog should be able to settle after activity and meet people without persistent fear or aggression. When visiting a litter, try to meet the dam and ask how close relatives cope with everyday life.

The breed's attentiveness can be useful in focus exercises, everyday obedience and simple scent games. Reward calm behaviour from the outset and provide an undisturbed resting place so the dog learns to switch off.

A Petit Brabançon can suit either an experienced owner or a well-prepared first-time owner, but being small does not make the dog self-sufficient. It needs kind, consistent training, daily care and an owner who takes breathing and eye health seriously. Choose the individual dog and breeder for their fit with your life, not on promises that the breed is always easy.

## Training & Exercise

The Petit Brabançon needs daily movement, mental stimulation and time to recover, but no single walk duration is right for every dog. A healthy individual may enjoy walks, exposure to different environments, play, everyday training and scent work. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, temperature and, above all, how the dog breathes and recovers.

Short, clear training sessions often suit a small, quick-learning companion dog. Reward the behaviour you want, break new skills into manageable steps and increase the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable. Gradually accustom the dog to having its mouth and face examined too; this makes toothbrushing and eye checks easier.

The short muzzle means breathing must determine how hard the dog works. Slow down or stop if breathing noise clearly increases, the dog struggles for air, fails to recover normally or appears unable to regulate its temperature. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or marked breathing difficulty are emergency warning signs that require veterinary care.

Take particular care in hot, humid weather. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, offer water and allow the dog to rest before it becomes distressed. A dog that repeatedly cannot manage an ordinary walk or play because of its breathing needs to be examined; this should not be dismissed as normal for a short-nosed breed.

A puppy should not follow the same exercise plan as an adult. Instead, let its body develop through varied, self-paced movement, brief opportunities to explore and plenty of rest. Increase duration and difficulty gradually, guided by the puppy's movement, breathing and recovery.

## Health

The main health checks for a Petit Brabançon concern breathing, eyes, kneecaps and signs of pain involving the nervous system. The presence of a problem in the breed does not mean every dog is affected; the individual dog's examination results and physical function are what matter.

The breed is short-nosed, which can increase the risk of BOAS — breathing difficulty caused by narrowed upper airways. The Swedish Kennel Club includes the breed in its specific instructions concerning head shape and breathing. Quiet, unrestricted breathing at rest, well-opened nostrils and normal recovery after movement are therefore useful practical checks. Snoring-like sounds while awake, increased breathing effort, poor stamina or heat intolerance should not be regarded as charming breed traits.

The RFG Scheme is a veterinary examination that assesses breathing before and after a three-minute exercise test. Among other things, the vet examines nostril shape, listens to the heart and lungs, and grades signs of BOAS from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected. Grade 1 denotes mild signs that do not affect performance, while grades 2 and 3 indicate moderate and severe clinical impact respectively.

Since May 2026, RFG results for the Petit Brabançon can be recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. An official result is registered from 24 months of age; an earlier result is marked as preliminary. For the Petit Brabançon, central registration does not currently mean that an RFG test is compulsory before breeding. Rules can change, so always check the current information from the Swedish Kennel Club. A puppy buyer can ask whether the parents have been tested, which grades they received and how they cope with ordinary activity and warm weather.

Kneecap problems and certain eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed's Swedish breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs be examined for patellar luxation before their first mating and have an eye examination within a year before mating. Ask to see registered results rather than accepting a general assurance that the dogs are healthy. Also ask about corneal injuries and other eye problems in close relatives, because the head shape can leave the eyes more exposed.

Syringomyelia occurs in the breed and can cause severe pain, but its prevalence among Swedish dogs is unknown. Frantic scratching, unusual movement or unexplained pain, for example when walking on a lead, can justify a neurological veterinary assessment. These signs can have several causes and should not be used to diagnose the dog at home.

Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, blinks repeatedly, rubs an eye, develops a watery eye or appears to be in pain. Breathing distress, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require emergency help. Early treatment is particularly important when the eyes are large and the muzzle is very short.

## History & Origins

The Petit Brabançon was developed in Belgium from the same stock as the Griffon Belge and Griffon Bruxellois. The breed standard traces all three to a small, rough-coated type found around Brussels known as the Smousje. These dogs worked around stables, where they helped control rodents and were said to guard carriages.

During the 1800s, crosses with dogs including the Pug and red King Charles Spaniel shaped the modern griffon type. These crosses contributed the smooth black coat and consolidated the breed type. The first griffons were entered in the Belgian stud book in 1883, and the small dogs later became valued as companions beyond Belgium.

The smooth-coated variety became known as the Petit Brabançon. Today, the three griffons have separate FCI numbers and are distinguished mainly by coat and colour, but their shared origin remains evident in both the breed standard and Swedish breeding practice. Their history explains the relationship; it cannot predict the temperament or health of an individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Petit Brabançon is best suited to someone who wants a small companion that takes an active part in daily life and can adapt routines to the individual dog's breathing, activity level and need for company. It can live well in a flat if it has regular opportunities to toilet, suitable activity, quiet recovery time and training to remain calm around sounds in the hallway and outside the door.

Adult supervision is essential around children. A dog this small should not be picked up, chased or disturbed while eating or resting. Give the dog a safe place of its own and teach the child to wait until the dog chooses to approach. How well the breed lives with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals, their previous experience and the way introductions are handled; the breed name is no guarantee.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure in its home. A young puppy should not be left alone; build up an adult dog's tolerance in small steps without allowing it to become frightened. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is regularly longer than the dog can remain alone without distress.

Oral care is an important part of routine care. Introduce toothbrushing gradually and ask your vet to help determine a suitable frequency. Dental chews may be a supplement, but they do not replace mechanical cleaning.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- How do the parents breathe at rest, during activity and in warm weather?
- Are there registered RFG results, and which grades did the dogs receive?
- When were the kneecaps and eyes last examined, and which results were recorded?
- Have close relatives had recurring corneal injuries, unexplained pain or neurological signs?
- How have the puppies been introduced to people, everyday sounds, handling and rest?
- What support does the breeder provide if questions arise after purchase?

The right dog can become a devoted companion that enjoys training. What matters is not simply that it is small or smooth-coated, but that it breathes freely, has healthy eyes and a stable temperament, and has a daily routine suited to an active companion dog.

Petit Brabançon

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Petit Brabançon: a tiny, sturdy Belgian companion dog with a smooth, glossy coat and large, almost human dark eyes. Loyal, sensitive and intelligent, it bonds closely with its people, suits city living, needs daily mental and physical activity, and prefers homes where it’s rarely left alone.

Prime Mover's är en uppfödare av raserna Griffon belge och Petit brabancon med bas i Påarp i Sverige. Uppfödningen har en registrerad historik sedan 2023.

Prime Mover's

Gunnel Borg är en uppfödare av rasen Petit brabancon med bas i Malmö i Sverige.

Gunnel Borg

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Maryvonne Stensson är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, stor med bas i Billeberga i Sverige.

Maryvonne Stensson

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Dies Lunae är en uppfödare av rasen Bichon havanais med bas i Eslöv i Sverige. Verksamhetens historia med rasen går tillbaka till 2024.

Dies Lunae

Staffan Alexius

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Viking Line är en uppfödare av raserna Pudel, dvärg, Pudel, stor och Pudel, toy med bas i Löddeköpinge i Sverige. Hundar från uppfödningen har deltagit vid officiella utställningar i Sverige, Danmark och Norge.

Viking Line

Barbet

Deutscher Hundeverband (Germany)

The Barbet is an ancient French water dog, medium-sized and sturdy, with a dense woolly low-shedding coat. Cheerful and people-focused, it thrives on family life, regular grooming, and active exercise, excelling in water work and dog sports, but remains a relatively rare breed.

Skogsuddens är en uppfödare av rasen Barbet med bas i Helsingborg i Sverige. Verksamhetens första kontakt med rasen var 2016, och den första egna kullen föddes 2022. I verksamheten tränas vardagslydnad, utställning och viltspår som återkommande delar av vardagen med rasen.

Skogsuddens

## Quick Facts

The Akita is a large Japanese spitz, now kept mainly as a companion dog. It is independent, observant and often calm at home, but needs an owner who can train patiently and manage a powerful dog around people and animals.

- **Origin:** Japan
- **Breed group:** Group 5, spitz and primitive types
- **Height in the breed standard:** 67 cm for dogs and 61 cm for bitches, with a tolerance of 3 cm either way
- **Weight:** the FCI breed standard does not specify an official weight
- **Coat:** straight, harsh outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Common activities:** companionship, showing, tracking, scent search and other forms of everyday enrichment

The Akita and the American Akita are separate breeds. The Japanese Akita is lighter and more distinctly spitz-like, with a narrower range of accepted colours. The American Akita is more heavily built and has a different breed standard. Information, health results and pedigrees should therefore always be checked against the correct breed.

The breed is best suited to someone who appreciates an independent dog and can plan carefully for encounters with other dogs, recall training and early exposure to everyday environments. It is rarely the right choice if you want a dog that greets everyone or happily repeats the same exercise many times.

## Appearance & Coat

The Akita should be large, robust and well balanced, with pricked ears and a thick tail carried in a pronounced curl over the back. The breed standard gives a height of 67 cm for dogs and 61 cm for bitches, with a tolerance of 3 cm above or below. It does not give a weight, so figures found elsewhere should not be treated as an official breed range.

Accepted colours are red fawn, sesame, brindle and white. Sesame means red fawn hairs with black tips. Every colour except white must have **urajiro**: whitish hair on areas including the sides of the muzzle, cheeks, underside of the body and tail, and the inside of the legs. A black mask and markings on a white ground are not part of the Japanese Akita standard; such features may occur in the American Akita's colour range, which is another reason not to confuse the breeds.

The coat has harsh, straight guard hairs and a soft, dense undercoat. It is slightly longer over the withers and rump and longest on the tail. An Akita normally sheds a great deal of undercoat around twice a year. At those times it needs thorough combing, often enough to prevent loose undercoat from becoming packed. Between shedding periods, adjust brushing to the individual coat and bathe the dog when needed.

From puppyhood, build calm, positive associations with brushing, nail trimming, dental checks and having the paws, ears and skin examined. This is particularly valuable with a large, independent dog: reward-based cooperative handling makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Akita is described as composed, faithful and receptive, but also as confident and independent. This does not mean that every dog behaves in the same way. Breeding, early experiences, training and the individual's personality all affect how it responds to people and animals.

Many Akitas form strong bonds with their family and like to keep track of what is happening at home. An individual may be reserved with strangers. The aim should not be to make the dog accept physical attention from everyone, but to help it remain calm and safe around visitors, passers-by and new places.

The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed may have difficulties with other dogs, particularly those of the same sex. Treat this as a risk to plan for, not a certainty about every Akita. Use controlled introductions, avoid forcing greetings and learn to recognise early signs of tension. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave with dogs of both sexes.

Its history as a hunting and guarding dog also means that safety around small animals and off-lead exercise must be assessed individually. An Akita raised with a cat may live well with that particular cat, but this does not predict its response to a running animal outdoors. Use a lead or long line until recall has been properly tested wherever the dog might be allowed off lead.

An Akita can live with children, but a breed name is not a guarantee of safety. A responsible adult must always supervise young children with any dog, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Because an adult Akita is large and strong, an adult should also take responsibility for walks and challenging encounters with other dogs.

## Training & Exercise

An Akita needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no authoritative fixed number of exercise minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the intensity of the activity determine what is appropriate. Walks should be combined with tasks that engage the mind and nose.

Tracking, scent search and varied walks suit the breed's documented interest in scent and trails. Obedience and agility can also work when they are adapted to the individual. The Swedish Kennel Club points out that Akitas can tire of repetitive training. Short, clear sessions with a worthwhile reward therefore often work better than numerous mechanical repetitions.

Train with security, consistency and positive learning. Reward the behaviour you want and increase difficulty gradually. Harsh physical correction does not solve independent thinking and may damage trust. Give particular attention to:

- checking in with you and walking on a loose lead
- passing other dogs calmly and being able to increase the distance when needed
- recall first in low-distraction places, then with the safety of a long line
- a well-practised place where the dog can settle when visitors arrive
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat

A securely enclosed area is the safest place for free movement until recall works around distractions. Even a well-trained Akita can make independent decisions, so off-lead access should depend on the individual dog's behaviour and the risks at that location, not on a general description of the breed.

## Health

The Akita is generally regarded as a relatively healthy breed, but the Swedish breed club's breeding strategy identifies autoimmune disease, hip dysplasia and eye diagnoses as areas to monitor. A well-informed puppy purchase therefore depends on both recorded screening results and open information about disease in the family line.

Two diagnoses that receive particular attention are sebaceous adenitis, **SA**, and Vogt–Koyanagi–Harada-like syndrome, often called **VKH** or **UDS** in dogs. SA is an inflammation that damages the sebaceous glands and may cause skin and coat problems. VKH/UDS may cause loss of pigmentation and serious eye problems. A small number of Swedish Akitas were reported with these diagnoses in the breed club's account for 2000–2020, but those figures should not be read as a current risk percentage. The club's strategy says that dogs diagnosed with SA or VKH should not be bred from and that health in their relatives should be considered.

For hips, there is an important distinction between a rule and a recommendation. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before an Akita litter can be registered. The requirement means that a result must be recorded; it does not by itself mean that every permitted mating has parents graded A or B. The breed club's breeding strategy goes further and states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.

Eye examination is not a registration requirement for the Akita under the 2026 Swedish rules. The breed club describes it as voluntary but desirable at some point in the life of a dog intended for breeding. A voluntary result can still provide valuable information when you compare breeders.

Ask the breeder to show and explain:

- the official hip results for both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's records
- whether the parents have had eye examinations and what results are known for close relatives
- whether SA, VKH/UDS or other diagnosed skin or eye conditions have occurred in close relatives
- how health, temperament and genetic diversity were balanced in the planned mating

Seek veterinary advice for persistent skin changes, marked hair loss, loss of pigment, eye pain, redness or a sudden change in vision. These signs have several possible causes and cannot be assessed safely from the breed alone or from online information.

## History & Origins

The Akita comes from Japan and is named after the Akita region. The FCI history describes the Akita Matagi as medium-sized bear-hunting dogs. From 1603 they were also used for dog fighting, and from 1868 they were crossed with Tosas and Mastiffs. Dog fighting was prohibited in 1908, and in 1931 nine outstanding Akitas were designated as natural monuments in Japan.

The Second World War had a severe impact on the breed. Afterwards, three distinct types remained: Matagi Akitas, fighting Akitas and dogs with German Shepherd ancestry. Japanese breeders then worked to restore the original spitz type by using Matagi Akitas and reducing the influence of foreign breeds. That work shaped the modern Japanese Akita.

The American line developed in a different direction. Dogs of the heavier post-war type were taken to the United States, where the American Akita developed. In Sweden the population was divided in 2000, and according to the breed's breeding strategy, present Swedish Akita breeding is based on Japanese lines. The Akita and American Akita are therefore not two names for the same dog, but separate breeds with their own standards.

## Living with the Breed

An Akita can live in a flat if its routine provides enough opportunities to go out, suitable activity and an undisturbed place to rest. The size of the home alone does not determine whether life there will work. It matters more that a large dog can move calmly through shared entrances and narrow spaces, that encounters with other dogs are manageable, and that good walking areas are nearby.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A confident adult dog that has been carefully trained to stay alone can often manage a few hours, whereas a puppy cannot be left in the same way. Progress varies between individuals. Do not increase the duration while the dog shows distress; arrange a dog sitter, dog day care or another solution if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

In a home with other dogs, consider their sex, how each individual behaves with dogs and whether they can be kept apart. Feed separately and separate high-value chews if competition is a concern, and provide several quiet resting places. With cats or small animals, use controlled introductions and make sure a gate or door can separate the animals. A history of calm contact does not make every future situation risk-free.

Before buying a puppy, meet adult dogs from the breeder's lines and ask for concrete examples rather than general breed labels. Ask how the dogs cope with dog encounters, visitors, handling, time alone and unfamiliar places. Compare the answers with your real life: who will handle the walks, how will you manage guests, where can the dog rest, and what happens if it cannot be let off lead or live freely with another family dog? That review tells you more about the match than describing an Akita simply as loyal, calm or independent.

Akita

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Akita Breed Overview

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Large, powerful Japanese spitz breed with a broad head, curled tail and dense double coat that sheds heavily. Calm, independent and reserved with strangers but deeply loyal to family and a natural guardian. Intelligent yet strong‑willed, best for experienced, consistent owners.

Zuzanna Dzik är en uppfödare av rasen Akita med bas i Helsingborg i Sverige.

Zuzanna Dzik

## Quick Facts

- The American Hairless Terrier is a small to medium-sized American terrier now kept mainly as a companion dog.
- The breed comes in two varieties: hairless and coated. Both belong to the same breed.
- The ideal height at the withers is 30.5–40.5 cm for dogs and bitches. The breed standard does not specify a set weight.
- It should be energetic, alert, curious and quick to learn, although activity levels can vary considerably between individuals.
- Its Rat Terrier ancestry is still evident in a strong prey drive, particularly towards small animals, even though bare skin limits the hairless variety in dense cover.
- The breed is recognised by the Nordic kennel clubs but not by the FCI.

The American Hairless Terrier is best suited to someone who wants an active companion and can combine everyday training with protection for bare skin. Having no coat does not make the dog allergy-free or remove the terrier instinct to hunt.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Hairless Terrier should be agile, muscular and slightly longer than it is tall, with proportions of about 10:9. It should have medium bone and move freely and evenly while keeping a strong, level back. This is an athletic terrier, not a fragile toy dog.

The ideal height is 30.5–40.5 cm for both sexes. The standard gives no weight range, so proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than an unofficial figure. Ask the breeder to show you how the parents look and move as adults.

Both the hairless and coated varieties are recognised. A hairless puppy is born with a soft natal coat that gradually disappears. By about eight to ten weeks, the body should be hairless apart from whiskers and possibly very fine down. The coated variety retains a short, smooth, dense and glossy coat. All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle and albinism.

Hairlessness is inherited recessively and is associated with a variant in the SGK3 gene. A coated dog can therefore carry the variant without being hairless. This genetic form is not associated with the same effects on teeth and fertility as the dominant hairlessness seen in some other hairless breeds. That does not mean every dog must have a complete set of teeth: the standard accepts a scissor or level bite and does not penalise missing premolars.

Skin care should respond to the dog's skin and the weather rather than follow a fixed routine. A hairless dog may need a well-fitting coat in cold conditions and protection from strong sunlight. Check the skin for chafing, scratches or redness after play and walks. Dry skin may sometimes need an emollient, but recurring rashes, itching or inflamed areas should be assessed by a vet. The coated variety mainly needs routine brushing, nail care and checks of the ears and teeth.

## Temperament & Personality

The American Hairless Terrier should be energetic, alert, curious and quick to learn. A confident individual will usually want to take part in family life and enjoy both company and purposeful activities. It also has a clear terrier heritage: it may react quickly to movement, keep watch on events outside the home and make its own decisions when something interesting appears.

Positive early experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and different settings matter. Socialisation does not mean that the dog must greet everyone. The aim is for it to handle everyday life calmly and look to its handler for guidance. Too few dogs in Sweden have completed BPH behavioural assessments for the results to describe the whole breed, so observe how the actual parents behave instead.

Activity levels vary. The Swedish breed club describes dogs ranging from fairly moderate to intense individuals that need a great deal of exercise and occupation. Ask how the parents and previous offspring behave on ordinary days: can they settle after activity, how do they respond to visitors and sounds, and how strongly do they pursue small animals?

Prey drive is a central everyday consideration. The breed's ancestors hunted rats and other vermin, and an American Hairless Terrier may regard mice, hamsters, guinea pigs and other small pets as prey. Do not assume that living together will be safe simply because the dog grows up in the household. Keep the animals securely apart whenever an adult cannot supervise them.

## Training & Exercise

The American Hairless Terrier needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. A better measure is whether the individual can move in a relaxed way, use its nose, solve tasks and then rest at home without becoming restless or overtired.

Combine walks with scent work, brief training sessions, play and body-awareness exercises. The breed may enjoy activities such as nose work, rally obedience, agility and trick training when the demands suit the dog's age and physical condition. Adapt activities to bare skin too: dense vegetation can scratch, while cold or strong sunlight may call for shorter sessions, a different time of day or protective clothing.

Use clear cues, short repetitions and rewards the dog genuinely values. Its curiosity and ability to learn mean that many individuals spot patterns quickly, including unwanted ones. Reward calm behaviour at the door, voluntary attention outdoors and the ability to disengage from something the dog wants to chase. Harsh corrections risk creating conflict or uncertainty and do not teach the dog what to do instead.

Recall and stopping around small animals deserve high priority, but training does not remove prey drive. Use a lead or long line where wildlife may appear until the response is thoroughly proven in that setting. If the dog barks at noises or visitors, work both preventively and practically: block opportunities to stand guard at windows, teach it to settle in a chosen place and reward it for breaking off the alert.

## Health

There are too few registered dogs in Sweden to describe the breed's health with great certainty. It is therefore misleading either to call the American Hairless Terrier generally healthy or to present a long list of diagnoses as if each were common. A prospective owner gets better evidence by reviewing the parents' results, illness among close relatives and the breeder's follow-up of previous litters.

The Swedish breed strategy recommends that both parents' DNA status for prcd-PRA and primary lens luxation, PLL, should be known before mating. A PLL carrier should have an eye examination close to the mating. Dogs that show signs of patellar luxation or have had corrective surgery should not be bred from, and the breeder should make sure that every puppy can hear before it leaves. Persistent allergy, skin problems and autoimmune disease in offspring should also inform future breeding decisions.

These are breed-club recommendations, not a compulsory health programme. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, the only special provision for the American Hairless Terrier is that coat type is recorded; there is no breed-specific requirement there for prcd-PRA, PLL, patella or hearing tests. Rules can change, so anyone planning a litter should always check the current version.

As a puppy buyer, ask to see the DNA results and confirm which dog they belong to. A result for one genetic variant is not a general certificate of health. Also ask how the patellae have been assessed, how puppy hearing is checked, and whether close relatives have had skin, allergy, eye or immune-related problems. Because the breed was founded from a small number of dogs, the relationship between the parents and open follow-up also matter.

A hairless dog is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found mainly in skin and saliva, and the amount varies between individuals, even within a breed or litter. Anyone with a dog allergy should not choose a breed on coat alone. Discuss the risk with a healthcare professional and spend time with the particular dog on several occasions before deciding; a brief meeting with another member of the breed offers no guarantee.

## History & Origins

The American Hairless Terrier developed from the American Rat Terrier, a farm and hunting dog used to control rats and other small quarry. In the autumn of 1972, a hairless bitch was born in a Rat Terrier litter. The Scott family named her Josephine, and she became the foundation bitch of the breed. In 1981, she produced a litter of two hairless and two coated puppies, providing the basis for further development.

During the 1980s and 1990s, the population was built from few dogs, with matings between close relatives used to establish the hairless trait. This explains why genetic diversity remains an important part of breeding decisions. The coated variety is not an unwanted by-product but a recognised part of the breed and can contribute to a broader breeding base.

The United Kennel Club registered it as a hairless Rat Terrier variety in 1999 and as a separate breed in 2004. The American Kennel Club granted full recognition in 2016. The first documented import to Sweden arrived in 2005 and produced its first litter the following year. Swedish Kennel Club recognition has applied since 2017. The breed can take part in shows and dog sports in the Nordic countries but is still not recognised by the FCI.

## Living with the Breed

An American Hairless Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough outdoor activity, help to settle and training around noises in stairwells and outside windows. The content of daily life matters more than the size of the home. In a building with poor sound insulation, however, the owner needs to address alert barking early and provide an undisturbed resting place.

With children, adult supervision and respect for the dog's boundaries matter more than a breed label. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a safe resting place where it will not be disturbed. Bare skin also makes rough play, sharp fingernails and careless lifting particularly unsuitable.

Living with a cat can work for some individuals, but prey drive makes calm, controlled introductions essential. The cat should have its own escape routes and resources, the dog must be prevented from chasing, and meetings should be supervised until their behaviour together is predictable. Small rodents and other prey-like pets must always be kept securely apart.

Being left alone is a learned skill, not an inborn breed trait. Start with very short absences when the dog feels safe and calm, and increase the duration only while it can remain relaxed. Persistent distress, barking or attempts to escape mean that training has progressed too quickly. Arrange care if daily life requires absences longer than the individual can manage.

In a Nordic climate, clothing for a hairless dog must function rather than merely look attractive. Check that coats provide warmth without rubbing beneath the forelegs or across the chest, and adapt time outdoors to wind, rain, temperature and the dog's movement. Strong sunlight calls for shade and may require skin protection. This extra care is central to the choice of breed, alongside the terrier's need for activity, training and safe management around small animals.

American Hairless Terrier

American Hairless Terrier Club of the United Kingdom

Svenska Terrierklubben (Swedish Terrier Club)

Dansk Terrier Klub (Danish Terrier Club)

Norwegian Terrier Club

Small, lively terrier available in hairless and coated forms, usually 25–46 cm and 5–12 kg. Very people-focused, indoor-oriented, and low-shedding, often suiting allergy-prone owners. Needs moderate daily exercise, mental stimulation, skin protection, and consistent, positive training.

Moltas är en uppfödare av rasen American hairless terrier med bas i Furulund i Sverige. Intresset för rasen började omkring 2011, och verksamheten grundades 2019. Uppfödaren arbetar även med handling, rörelser och utställningsträning.

Moltas

## Quick Facts

The Border Collie is a British sheepdog for someone who wants to work with, train and give their dog meaningful tasks throughout its life. The breed is highly trainable and has great stamina, but those same qualities often make it more demanding than a dog bred primarily for companionship.

- **Dog type:** purebred sheepdog, recognised by the FCI in Group 1
- **Size:** medium; the ideal height for males is about 53 cm, with females usually slightly shorter
- **Weight:** approximately 12–20 kg, with variation according to sex and build
- **Life expectancy:** approximately 10–15 years
- **Coat:** smooth or moderately long double coat in many colours
- **Typical traits:** alert, biddable, responsive, intelligent and strongly motivated to work
- **Best suited to:** a committed owner who enjoys regular training and can teach both activity and rest

The key question before buying is not whether the family walks for a set number of hours, but whether daily life allows time for regular training and cooperation. A Border Collie needs to use its brain, express its herding instincts in controlled ways and also learn to settle at home.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Collie is an athletic, well-balanced dog, built for agility and sustained work rather than for a uniform appearance. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, smooth and efficient. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 53 cm for males and slightly less for females, although both size and build vary noticeably within the breed.

The standard describes two coat varieties: smooth and moderately long. Both have a dense, medium-textured outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat that provides weather resistance. The moderately long coat forms more of a mane, breeching and brush, while the smooth coat lies closer to the body. Many colours and markings occur; black and white and tricolour are common, but the standard permits considerable variety provided white does not predominate.

The coat is basically straightforward to maintain. Brush as often as needed to remove loose undercoat and prevent matting, particularly behind the ears and in areas of feathering. More frequent brushing is needed during periods of heavier shedding. Bathe when necessary. A dog that works or trains outdoors should also be checked afterwards: examine the paws, nails, skin and coat for injuries, grass awns, ticks and debris.

## Temperament & Personality

The Border Collie is attentive, cooperative and extremely quick to notice patterns. It therefore learns not only what its owner intends to teach, but also which sounds predict a walk, how people normally move and which behaviours produce a response. Highly trainable does not automatically mean easy to live with; unclear routines and accidental rewards can establish behaviour just as quickly as considered training.

Herding depends on the dog noticing and influencing movement. In everyday life without sheep, the same sensitivity can be directed towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals. Staring, stalking, cutting off a path and chasing are signals to address early. They should be interrupted calmly and replaced with a trained alternative, not encouraged as an amusing quirk.

A Border Collie can live successfully in a family, but the breed is not universally “good with children” regardless of the individual and environment. Running, shouting and fast play can trigger herding behaviour or stress. Children and dogs therefore need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Living with a cat or other dogs can also work, especially with thoughtful introductions, but cannot be guaranteed on the basis of breed alone. The cat should be able to withdraw and the dog should be taught to leave it alone.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Collie needs both physical activity and tasks requiring concentration every day, but it is not possible to specify a number of hours that suits every individual. Age, health, temperament, previous training and work determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates movement, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery.

Walks in varied surroundings, free movement where it is safe, scent work, obedience, tracking, herding and other dog sports engage the dog in different ways. Choose activities in which the dog must listen and make decisions, not merely run quickly. Endless ball throwing or other highly arousing repetition is a poor measure of whether the dog’s needs have been met; it can increase anticipation without teaching the dog to settle.

Keep training sessions short, clear and reward based. Give everyday skills such as recall, lead walking, stopping at a distance and disengaging from movement as much attention as tricks or competitive exercises. Reward calm behaviour too: lying in a designated place, waiting while something happens and sleeping after activity. A Border Collie that is always offered more high-speed activity can become extremely fit without learning how to rest.

Puppies and young dogs need controlled experiences, not a miniature version of an adult training schedule. Build confidence in different environments, allow the body to mature and increase physical load and difficulty gradually. If the dog becomes more scattered, noise-sensitive or fixated despite receiving more activity, the answer may be a better balance and professional help rather than still harder exercise.

## Health

The Border Collie is regarded as comparatively healthy, but the breed has documented conditions that a puppy buyer should understand. Hip dysplasia (HD), Collie eye anomaly (CEA), other retinal changes, epilepsy and osteochondrosis affecting mainly the shoulder are among the areas highlighted by the Swedish Kennel Club and the Swedish Sheepdog Society.

When assessing a Swedish-registered litter, start by checking the parents’ official hip status and eye examination. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, the eye result must be recorded before mating and would normally be no more than one year old. Check the registered results and also ask about epilepsy, recurring seizures, shoulder problems and early deaths among siblings, parents and other close relatives. Normal results for two parents do not describe the health of an entire family line.

DNA tests are available for several inherited conditions in the breed, including CEA, IGS, TNS and sensory neuropathy. Which tests are relevant depends on ancestry and current recommendations. Ask the breeder to explain what has been tested and why. For recessive diseases, a healthy carrier is not the same as an affected dog; what matters is planning the mating so puppies cannot inherit the disease variant from both parents. A DNA test does not replace a clinical eye examination, joint results or knowledge of the wider family.

A dog with Border Collie collapse (BCC) may be completely symptom-free at rest but become disorientated, unsteady or fall during or shortly after intense activity. The dog may appear to recover after 5–30 minutes, but any collapse must be taken seriously and assessed by a vet. BCC is not the same as ordinary fatigue, heatstroke or the dynamin-1-related EIC variant more commonly seen in Labrador Retrievers. Stop the activity immediately if the dog’s focus or movement changes abnormally.

## History & Origins

The Border Collie developed in the border country between England and Scotland as a working dog for sheep farming. Selection was based for a long time on practical herding ability: the dog needed to read livestock, work at a distance and respond to its handler’s signals in demanding conditions. This functional background explains the breed’s eye, stalking movement, endurance and strong drive to control movement.

The FCI recognises the Border Collie as a British sheepdog subject to a working trial. In Sweden, function also has an unusually explicit place in registration. The breed is entered in the Swedish Kennel Club’s dedicated sheepdog register, REG V, and a Swedish-born Border Collie can only be registered when both parents have passed a herding trial held by Svenska Vallhundsklubben (SVaK) or have an approved equivalent qualification from abroad. Appearance can consequently vary more than in many other breeds, while working ability remains central to the Swedish breeding model.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Border Collie requires planning, but not constant entertainment. The goal is a dog that can work with focus when needed and rest when nothing is happening. That balance is best suited to a home where someone genuinely enjoys dog training and where responsibility does not depend on children exercising the dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically ruled out, and a large garden does not guarantee a good life. Access to suitable training environments, safe exercise and a routine that can genuinely be maintained matter more. In a busy area, the owner must be able to manage traffic, bicycles, runners, sounds and encounters without the dog becoming stuck in herding or constant vigilance.

Time alone should be trained gradually, beginning with very short periods and adjusted to the dog’s age and reactions. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a promise that a dog will be comfortable alone for that long. Consider filming early sessions and step back if the dog paces, pants, barks, damages things or cannot settle. A routine involving repeated long working days without help is a poor starting point for this breed.

Before buying a Swedish puppy, check at least three things for both parents: a registered hip status, a valid eye result and a pass in an approved herding trial. Then ask about epilepsy and joint health in close relatives, relevant DNA tests, how the parents behave both at rest and at work, and what support the breeder provides after the purchase. The best match is not about finding the “cleverest” puppy, but choosing one whose temperament and working drive suit what you can offer throughout the dog’s life.

Border Collie

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Border Collie is a medium, athletic herding dog known for intense focus, high intelligence and very high energy. Developed to work sheep all day, it excels in herding, sports and training. It needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and structured guidance in an active home.

Hold Em är en uppfödare av rasen Border collie med bas i Trelleborg i Sverige. Uppfödningen har bedrivits under kennelnamnet sedan åtminstone 2007. Hundar från uppfödningen har genom åren förekommit inom både lydnad och utställning.

Hold Em

Micropup's

Lovely Partie's är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, stor med bas i Bjärred i Sverige.

Lovely Partie's

## Quick Facts

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a British companion and toy dog that combines a small frame with a lively, sociable nature. It usually wants to stay close to people, but it needs more than a lap and a few brief toilet walks.

- The breed standard gives a weight of 5.5–8 kg. It does not specify a height; the Swedish Kennel Club describes approximately 30–35 cm as usual.
- The coat is long and silky. The four recognised colours are black and tan, ruby, Blenheim and tricolour.
- The breed ideal is a happy, friendly, affectionate and fearless dog. Individual dogs can still differ markedly in energy, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- A Cavalier needs physical activity, scent work, training and social contact every day. No single exercise target in minutes is meaningful for every dog.
- Health calls for particular care. In Sweden, the breed is covered by a mandatory heart screening programme for breeding, while several other examinations are breed-club recommendations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel should be small, well balanced and free-moving, with a gentle expression. The skull should be almost flat between the ears. The eyes are large, dark and round without being prominent, and the high-set ears are long and heavily feathered. The standard specifies a weight of 5.5–8 kg but no exact height. The figure of 30–35 cm is therefore a usual guide, not a height requirement.

The coat should be long and silky without curls; a slight wave is permitted. There is feathering on the ears, legs, feet and tail. The four colours are:

- **Black and tan:** black with clearly defined tan markings.
- **Ruby:** a solid, deep red.
- **Blenheim:** rich chestnut markings on a pearly white ground.
- **Tricolour:** black and white with tan markings.

The coat needs regular combing, particularly behind the ears, where the soft hair tangles easily. Check the feathering around the feet after walks as well. The standard calls for a natural, untrimmed coat, although thick hair beneath and between the pads may need tidying to prevent felted mats. Gently accustom a puppy to the comb, to having its paws handled and to having its ears and eyes checked; this makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

No dog breed is free of allergens, and the Cavalier is no exception. Dog allergens mainly come from the skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals. Anyone with allergy symptoms should therefore not assess the risk from coat length or breed name alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was bred for companionship and is generally open, affectionate and sociable. The breed standard describes a happy, friendly dog without aggression or nervousness, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

Results from Swedish BPH behaviour assessments provide a more nuanced picture. In an analysis of 192 Swedish-bred Cavaliers, the breed was mainly confident and did not generally react aggressively in social encounters. The average dog was not considered vocal either, although some dogs barked or whined in situations where this was not expected. There is genuine variation behind the breed description. If possible, meet the puppy's mother, ask how both parents behave in daily life and find out whether fear, stress or resource guarding occurs in close relatives.

The breed often fits well into family life and is generally sociable with other dogs. The same safety rules that apply to every dog still apply around young children: an adult should be present, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should learn not to carry the dog, pull its ears or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. Living with a cat depends on the individual dog, previous experience and a calm introduction; the breed name offers no guarantee.

## Training & Exercise

A Cavalier needs to move and use its brain every day, but the right amount depends on age, health, fitness and recovery rather than a fixed number of minutes. A healthy adult can combine walks and off-lead movement in a secure place with scent games, play and short training sessions. Many enjoy obedience, rally obedience or agility at a level suited to the individual.

Short, positive sessions make it easier to maintain focus. Start early with engagement, walking together and recall, and reward the dog for choosing you despite scents and other distractions. Even a companion dog with spaniel ancestry can become absorbed by something interesting outdoors, so use a long line until recall is reliable in that particular environment.

Puppies need to explore, play and rest at their own pace. Avoid generic five-minute rules and instead build activity gradually without pushing a tired puppy. A dog with a heart murmur, heart disease, pain or neurological signs needs an individual plan from a veterinary surgeon.

## Health

Heart health is the most important breed-specific check for a puppy buyer in Sweden. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is particularly predisposed to myxomatous mitral valve disease, or MMVD. The valve between the left atrium and ventricle changes so that blood may leak backwards and produce a heart murmur. A dog can have the disease without visible signs for a long time, while others later develop heart failure.

The breed is covered by a level 3 heart screening programme. To meet the registration rules for the offspring, both parents must have an official certificate showing no heart murmur. The certificate must be no more than 12 months old at the time of mating, and the minimum age for an official heart certificate is three years. This is a minimum standard, not proof that a mating is free from risk. Ask for the parents' registration numbers, check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata services, and consider how long older close relatives remained free of murmurs. The breed club recommends annual heart examinations from the age of three until a murmur is detected, including for dogs no longer used for breeding.

Chiari-like malformation and syringomyelia, CM/SM, are another important health concern. When the skull is too small in relation to the brain, the flow of cerebrospinal fluid may be disrupted and a fluid-filled cavity can form within the spinal cord. Some dogs with mild findings show no clear signs. Others experience pain, become sensitive around the head or neck, are reluctant to move, scratch at the air near the neck, or show weakness and poorer coordination. A veterinary surgeon should assess such signs. MRI can be used in breeding selection, but it is a breed-club recommendation and should not be confused with the mandatory heart programme. Ask the breeder about clinical signs and MRI results in the parents and close relatives.

The Swedish breed club also recommends eye examinations and patellar luxation checks for breeding dogs once they are at least one year old. The distinction matters here too: these are recommended checks, not the same registration requirement as the heart certificate. A buyer therefore needs to distinguish between formal requirements, breed-club recommendations and the combined results seen across the family.

## History & Origins

The modern Cavalier King Charles Spaniel originated in Great Britain and is closely associated with the small spaniels seen in European paintings over several centuries. The dogs gained their royal name through their connection with the House of Stuart and Charles II in particular.

As the short-muzzled type became fashionable, the King Charles Spaniel changed. In 1926, the American Roswell Eldridge offered prizes at Crufts for dogs resembling the older type, with a longer muzzle and flatter skull. A British breed club was founded in 1928, and in 1945 The Kennel Club recognised the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as a separate breed.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and the King Charles Spaniel are therefore not two names for the same dog. They are separate breeds with a shared background, and the Cavalier was developed to recapture more of the older spaniel type.

## Living with the Breed

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel can live well in either a flat or a house if it receives company, walks, mental activity and undisturbed rest. The size of the home is no substitute for a suitable daily routine. The breed can also suit a first-time owner who is prepared to train, care for the coat and take health screening seriously; its small size does not make it automatically low-maintenance.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, once the puppy feels secure at home. Step away for very short periods and increase the duration only when the dog can relax. Whining, persistent barking, destructive behaviour, refusing food or toileting indoors can be signs of distress. Individual dogs cope with different amounts of time alone, so arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more separation than your dog can comfortably manage.

Three checks are particularly valuable before buying a puppy:

1. Check the parents' current heart certificates and the results of older relatives in the Swedish Kennel Club's public records.
2. Ask separately about CM/SM signs and MRI, as well as eye and patella examinations; do not confuse these recommendations with the heart programme requirements.
3. Assess the parents' everyday temperament and how the puppies have been introduced to people, handling and a home environment.

These checks provide a more realistic picture than relying on the breed's friendly reputation alone. A carefully chosen Cavalier can be an engaged and very close companion, but it needs an owner who takes both its social needs and documented health risks seriously.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club UK

Small, gentle spaniel (5.4–8 kg) with a silky medium coat in Blenheim, Tricolour, Black and Tan, or Ruby. Affectionate, people oriented, and good with children and other pets. Needs regular grooming, moderate exercise, and dislikes long periods alone.

Gånebackens är en uppfödare av rasen Cavalier king charles spaniel med bas i Helsingborg i Sverige. Den första registreringen av rasen under kennelnamnet gjordes 2023.

Gånebackens

## Quick Facts

The Cane Corso is an FCI-recognised breed from Italy. It belongs to Group 2 and is a molossoid of mastiff type, not a crossbreed or a generic name for large guard dogs.

- **Size:** males 64–68 cm and 45–50 kg; females 60–64 cm and 40–45 kg. Weight should be proportionate to the dog's size.
- **Function:** a versatile working dog with a documented background as a guardian of property, family, and livestock.
- **Temperament:** alert, mobile, and highly trainable according to the breed standard. The breed may be reserved with strangers, but fear and unjustified aggression are not part of the ideal.
- **Activity:** needs physical exercise, mental engagement, and continued training every day. There is no credible minute-by-minute schedule that suits every individual.
- **Coat:** short, glossy, and dense with some undercoat; brush and bathe as needed.
- **Owner:** the Swedish Kennel Club considers the breed generally unsuitable as a first dog. Its size, strength, and guarding behaviour require an experienced owner.
- **Before buying a puppy in Sweden:** check the parents' official hip dysplasia (HD) and elbow dysplasia (ED) results, completed BPH behavioural assessment when a parent lives in Sweden, and how the breeder has assessed DSRA status and temperament in the pairing.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cane Corso should be powerful without becoming heavy or exaggerated. The breed standard describes a robust dog with a degree of elegance, lean musculature, and a body approximately 11 per cent longer than its height. It should move with long, efficient strides.

The head is large and typical of a molossoid, but an extremely short muzzle is not correct breed type. The muzzle should be about half the length of the skull, powerful, deep, and square. Wide nostrils, sound eyelids, and unrestricted breathing matter more than an exaggerated “massive” expression. The Nordic Kennel Union's Breed Specific Instructions particularly identify an overly short muzzle, pinched nostrils, loose eyelids, insufficient rear angulation, and inefficient movement.

Under the current standard, the ears should be triangular, hanging, and uncropped. The tail should be natural, thick at the root, and never carried upright or curled. Cropping is therefore not a requirement of correct breed type.

The coat should be short, glossy, and very dense with some undercoat. The standard lists black; several shades of grey, also termed blue; light or dark fawn; stag red; dark wheaten; and black or grey brindle. In fawn and brindle dogs, the black or grey mask must not extend above the eyes. A small white patch on the chest, toe tips, or bridge of the nose is accepted. Merle is not among the colours permitted by the standard.

Coat care is straightforward but still necessary. Brush when the dog is shedding or loose hair needs removing, bathe when dirty, and check the skin, ears, nails, and teeth at the same time. A fixed bathing or brushing schedule is less useful than the dog's actual needs.

## Temperament & Personality

The Cane Corso is a guard dog, but guarding instinct is not the same as aggression. The breed's documented task is to guard property, family, and livestock. In everyday life, this may appear as attention to visitors, sounds, and changes in the environment, together with a reserved attitude towards unfamiliar people.

There is considerable variation in both working traits and everyday behaviour. A confident dog may have no interest in greeting without being afraid. At the same time, it should be able to let go of suspicion, remain neutral in ordinary situations, and accept necessary handling. Excessive suspicion, severe fear, or aggression should never be excused as “typical of the breed.”

This is generally a poor choice for an inexperienced dog owner. Experience means being able to read signs of stress, train a very strong dog without a power struggle, plan visits and dog encounters, and seek help early. An adult dog needs to be able to walk on a lead, wait at the door, disengage on cue, and accept examination.

A Cane Corso can live in a family with children, but the breed name does not guarantee that a particular dog is suitable for children. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it is left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog whose strength they cannot manage.

The same individual assessment applies to other dogs and cats. Introducing a cat requires gradual habituation, separate safe areas, and the ability to interrupt the interaction. A dog that strongly chases small animals is not automatically a safe companion for a cat.

## Training & Exercise

The Cane Corso needs an active life, but quality and control matter more than a fixed number of exercise minutes. Each day should include walks and other physical movement, mental activity, and opportunities to settle. Adapt the load to age, health, surface, and recovery; a growing young dog should not follow the training plan of a fully mature adult.

Tracking, search work, nose work, and obedience give the dog opportunities to cooperate and use its nose. A garden provides freedom of movement but does not replace walks, environmental training, or shared activity. The dog also needs to be able to settle indoors.

Reward-based training is the right starting point even for a large guard dog. Harsh corrections, intimidation, and dominance-based thinking can increase conflict and distress; clarity comes from well-taught cues, consistent routines, and a thoughtfully managed environment. Prioritise these skills early:

- walking on a loose lead and a reliable recall
- stop and release cues
- waiting calmly at doors, gates, and the car
- going to a designated resting place when visitors arrive
- cooperative handling of paws, mouth, ears, and body
- passing people and dogs neutrally

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy should greet everyone. The aim is for it to experience people, animals, traffic, surfaces, and new environments without feeling a need to defend itself or push forward. Short, controlled experiences in which the dog feels safe are more valuable than numerous forced encounters.

## Health

Joint health is the clearest health priority for the Cane Corso in Sweden. The current breed-specific breeding strategy particularly highlights hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and other joint injuries. Eyes and eyelids are another priority, especially cherry eye, entropion, and ectropion. The Breed Specific Instructions also emphasise rear angulation, muzzle length, open nostrils, close-fitting eyelids, movement, and confident handling.

Puppy buyers need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules from breed-club recommendations. Under the 2026 rules for the Cane Corso:

- Parent dogs must have official HD status before mating. Dogs graded HD D or E may not be used for breeding.
- Parent dogs must have official ED status before mating. ED grade 2 or 3, clinical symptoms, or surgery because of ED exclude a dog from breeding.
- Parent dogs resident in Sweden must have completed BPH before mating. For dogs assessed before 1 January 2019, known mental status from MH may replace BPH.

The breed club additionally recommends that the parents' mean HD index and mean ED index at the time of mating exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with binding registration rules.

DSRA, Dental Skeletal Retinal Anomaly, is a serious recessively inherited disease that can affect the teeth, skeleton, and vision, among other systems. A puppy becomes affected when it inherits the variant from both parents; a dog with one copy is a carrier. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to register DSRA test results centrally. This does not mean that every breeding dog automatically has to be tested. Ask the breeder to show how the parents' status was assessed and why the pairing cannot produce affected puppies.

Look at the dogs as well as the certificates. Parent dogs should be able to move efficiently, breathe quietly and without difficulty, have healthy eyes, and accept handling without severe fear. Ask about serious diagnoses in close relatives. A normal test result does not guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy.

## History & Origins

The Cane Corso is an Italian breed whose official standard traces it primarily to ancient Roman molossoid dogs. After the type had previously existed across larger parts of Italy, it was preserved in more recent centuries mainly in and around Apulia in southern Italy. The standard links the name to the Latin *cohors*, meaning defender and guardian of the farmyard.

The breed worked as a farm and guard dog, drove livestock, and was also used to hunt big game. This explains its combination of strength, mobility, endurance, and independent vigilance better than stories that portray it only as a war dog.

The FCI recognised the Cane Corso provisionally in 1996 and definitively in 2007. Today it is listed as an Italian molossoid of mastiff type in Group 2 and as a breed subject to a working trial. Its historical work remains relevant when deciding whether the breed suits a particular way of life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Cane Corso primarily requires planning for a large dog that independently notices what is happening around it. The type of home is not the whole answer. A flat can work for an individual whose needs are met and who can settle, but narrow entrances, lifts, frequent dog encounters, and many visitors place high demands on training and practical control. A large garden does not solve those demands by itself.

Visitor routines should be in place before the dog tries to manage the front door for the family. Provide a resting place behind a gate or in a separate room, teach a calm routine, and do not allow the dog to practise rushing forward or making decisions about guests. Homes with children or other animals need separate areas and adults who can apply the rules every day, not only after a problem has appeared.

Time alone should be trained gradually. Begin with very short periods, increase them only when the dog can rest, and adjust the training if it shows anxiety or distress. There is no reliable breed rule for how many hours a Cane Corso can cope with; arrangements must reflect the individual dog's age, confidence, and need for toilet breaks and social contact.

Before buying, meet several adult Cane Corsos, preferably away from their homes as well. Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check HD, ED, and BPH in official records. Ask about DSRA status, temperament, serious diagnoses in the family, the puppies' environmental training, and support after collection. Observe whether the adults can breathe, move, and be handled without difficulty.

The right home provides clear routines, reward-based training, daily activity, and calm recovery. If you want a dog that welcomes every person and dog without preparation, or if you cannot manage encounters and visitors, the Cane Corso is probably the wrong choice. For an experienced owner who values the breed's working ability and takes responsibility for its strength, however, it can become a close and cooperative everyday companion.

Cane Corso

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Società Amatori Cane Corso (Italy)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

The Cane Corso is a large, athletic Italian mastiff with a short, easy-care coat and strong guarding instincts. Deeply devoted and sensitive, it needs experienced, consistent handling, thorough socialization, and substantial daily exercise and training to stay balanced.

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Gacilos Adamas är en uppfödare av raserna Cane corso och Pomeranian med bas i Landskrona i Sverige. Uppfödningen av cane corso har en registreringshistorik som går tillbaka till 2018. Pomeranian registrerades under kennelnamnet för första gången 2025.

Gacilos Adamas

## Quick Facts

- The Chinese Crested Dog is a small companion dog with two coat varieties: hairless and powder puff. Both can be born in the same litter.
- The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard does not specify an official weight.
- The hairless variety has a crest on its head, so-called socks on its feet and a plume on its tail. The powder puff has a long, soft coat over its entire body.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful dog that should never be vicious. Even so, there are clear individual differences in sociability, curiosity, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- Skin or coat care, tooth brushing and protection suited to the weather need to be part of everyday life from the outset.
- When choosing a puppy, eye examination results, PLL status, dental status and the health and temperament of close relatives matter more than general promises about the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chinese Crested Dog is small, active and graceful without necessarily being fragile. The breed includes both the elegant deer type and the somewhat heavier cobby type. The body should be moderately long to long, with a level back and long, flowing, free movement. All colours and colour combinations are permitted.

The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard gives no weight, so the figure of 5.4 kg as an upper limit should not be treated as the modern ideal. Assess an adult dog by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead.

In the hairless variety, the body should be largely bare, with long hair on the head, feet and tail. The amount of body hair nevertheless varies between individuals. Ask to see the puppy before it has been trimmed, and ask the breeder to demonstrate how that particular dog's skin and furnishings should be cared for. The skin should be fine, soft and warm to the touch.

The powder puff has a thin undercoat covered by a veil of long, soft hair. The coat should be flowing rather than heavy or woolly. Part the coat and comb all the way down to the skin. Pay particular attention to early tangles wherever hair is dense or subject to friction. A weekly routine for bathing and checking the coat can be a starting point, but its condition should determine how often it needs detangling, washing and thorough drying.

Hairless skin needs to be checked for chafing, redness, spots and dryness. Young dogs can develop blackheads and spots during periods of hormonal change, although the extent varies greatly. Provide shade and suitable clothing when sun, wind, wet weather or cold make it necessary. A powder puff may also need weather protection because its fine coat provides relatively little warmth and is not particularly water-resistant. If the skin remains inflamed or itchy, or develops sores that do not heal, a vet should assess the cause and help with the choice of products.

Neither the hairless variety nor the powder puff is allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, and levels also vary between dogs of the same breed. A small amount of loose hair is therefore no guarantee for a family affected by allergies.

## Temperament & Personality

The Chinese Crested Dog should be cheerful and not vicious, but the breed encompasses many different personalities. In data from Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment, the dogs assessed appeared relatively confident, moderately curious and not generally vocal or aggressive. The same data show considerable variation in how dogs greet unfamiliar people, play and respond to unexpected events.

That is more useful than labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog”. One individual may seek a great deal of physical contact, while another may be more independent. Some greet visitors immediately; others prefer to observe first. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives cope with handling, new people, noise, settling and brief separations. Look for a puppy that can explore at its own pace and recover after something unexpected.

The breed can be alert and may bark when something happens, but that does not mean every dog is very vocal. In a home where noise carries easily, it is sensible to reward calm behaviour around doors, windows and sounds in communal areas from an early age. Find out whether the dog can also settle when nothing is happening. The ability to rest matters just as much as playfulness.

With children, the interaction matters more than the breed label. The dog's small size calls for extra care if children want to pick it up or carry it, but there is no general rule that the breed is suitable only for older children. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no well-founded time formula that suits every dog. A good day might include walks with time to sniff, play, a short skills session and calm recovery. An active individual may enjoy longer outings, agility, rally obedience, heelwork to music or tracking, while another may prefer less demanding activities.

Adjust duration and intensity to the dog's age, fitness, the weather, its movement and how well it recovers. A hairless dog that tenses up in the cold is not having a worthwhile walk simply because a target duration has been reached. Choose protection and surroundings to suit the conditions, and add indoor training when needed.

Reward-based training works well for teaching everyday skills. Start with recall, walking on a lead, settling in one place, leaving objects and stopping an activity when asked. Also practise cooperative handling of the mouth, feet, skin, coat and ears. This makes tooth brushing, bathing, clipping and veterinary visits less stressful.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy has to greet everyone. Instead, let it encounter different people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and environments at a distance where it can still eat, think and choose whether to make contact. If it becomes frightened, make the situation easier and give it time to recover. This builds greater confidence than forcing an encounter.

## Health

There are no breed-specific health tests that must be completed before a Chinese Crested Dog litter can be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, SKK. The breed club does, however, issue clear breeding recommendations. The distinction matters when assessing a litter: guidance can be highly relevant without being mandatory.

The breed club states that both parents should have an eye examination no earlier than 18 months of age, with a certificate no more than one year old at the time of mating. It also states that both should have a known DNA status for primary lens luxation, PLL. In addition, it recommends a known DNA status for prcd-PRA and a known patellar status established from 12 months of age. A patellar examination is therefore an important point to check, but it is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Veterinary auscultation of the heart before breeding is described as desirable, rather than as a formal requirement or recommendation in the club's “must” and “should” categories.

Ask to see the result itself, its date and the dog's identity. A DNA test applies only to the mutation analysed and does not replace a clinical eye examination. A healthy carrier of a simple recessive condition does not automatically have to be excluded from breeding, but should be mated to a genetically clear dog so that affected puppies are not born. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

Eye conditions highlighted in the breed include PLL, different forms of PRA or retinopathy, and dry eye. Ask about examination results and symptoms in older relatives as well. The breed club's health review also discusses heart conditions that tend to appear later in life and indications of back problems. These findings justify questions about older relatives and early heart murmurs or back symptoms; they do not mean that every dog will become ill.

Hairlessness and dentition are linked through a variant of the FOXI3 gene, which affects the development of both hair and teeth. Hairless dogs may therefore lack some permanent teeth or have unusually shaped, forward-pointing teeth. Powder puffs do not have this specific genetic effect and should normally have a complete scissor bite. Congenitally missing teeth are not the same as periodontal disease, but both varieties need daily tooth brushing to limit plaque and gum disease. Monitor the change from puppy to adult teeth, and ask a vet to assess retained deciduous teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty chewing.

In a large UK study, median life expectancy was 13.4 years among 928 Chinese Crested Dogs. The confidence interval for the median was 13.0–13.8 years. This result describes the study population, not how long an individual dog will live.

## History & Origins

The breed's early history is uncertain. China is listed as the country of origin and Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard, but it is not possible to trace an unbroken line from ancient Chinese hairless dogs to today's breed. Stories about dogs aboard trading ships, rat-catching and life during the Han dynasty should therefore be treated as theories rather than established facts.

The documented modern milestones are clearer. Chinese Crested Dogs were shown in the United States between 1885 and 1926, after which they were scarcely seen for nearly 50 years. Organised breeding in Britain was re-established with imports from the United States between 1965 and 1968. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1972, the first Swedish litter was born that year, and the dogs were registered with SKK in 1973. The Chinese Crested Club of Sweden was founded in 1990.

## Living with the Breed

The type of home does not by itself determine whether a Chinese Crested Dog will thrive. Both a flat and a house can work if the dog receives activity, rest and gradual training to be left alone. Assess the home in terms of noise, access to suitable places for walks and how easily the dog can get away from draughts, strong sunlight and commotion. A small body does not mean small needs.

A young puppy should not be left alone. Once it feels secure at home, training can begin with the puppy relaxing while you move behind a gate or leave the room very briefly. Increase the time only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can often cope alone for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. A camera can help reveal pacing, panting, barking or an inability to settle.

Cats and other dogs can live successfully with the breed, but low prey drive or trouble-free coexistence cannot be promised on the basis of breed alone. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing, and give the cat a secure escape route and separate resources. Adapt play to the dogs' sizes and communication styles. Small pets should be kept safely apart unless you can control the situation with confidence.

The right home needs to be ready for the differences between the two coat varieties, daily dental care and a dog that needs both closeness and the ability to feel secure on its own. Meet adult relatives if possible, see the puppy untrimmed and check documented health results. These checks say far more than promises that all Chinese Crested Dogs are quiet, allergy-friendly or automatically easy family pets.

Chinese Crested Dog

The Chinese Crested Dog is a fine‑boned toy breed, either hairless with silky crest and furnishings or Powder Puff with a soft full coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, they train well with gentle methods, need protection and care for skin or coat, and moderate daily exercise.

Tinted's

## Quick Facts

The Ragdoll is a large, slow-maturing and often sociable cat from the United States. The breed is commonly described as calm and curious, but its name does not guarantee that an individual will want to sit on laps or be carried. Personality, previous experiences and how the cat feels at the time always matter.

- **Size:** An adult Ragdoll often weighs around 4–9 kg. Sex, build and body condition make a substantial difference, so the number on the scale must be considered alongside body condition.
- **Maturity:** Ragdolls develop slowly and may need three to four years to reach full physical maturity.
- **Coat:** The medium-long to long, soft coat needs regular combing. A thorough check about once a week is a reasonable starting point, although a denser coat may need more attention.
- **Activity:** A calm manner does not mean that the cat can be inactive. It needs daily predatory play, places to scratch, elevated areas, hiding places and social contact on its own terms.
- **Health:** HCM is the most important breed-specific health issue to clarify before buying. The DNA test for the R820W variant and cardiac ultrasound provide different information and do not replace one another.
- **Best suited to:** A home that can offer companionship without forcing it, sturdy furnishings for a large cat, and a plan for coat care, play and weight monitoring.

## Appearance & Coat

The Ragdoll is a large, powerful and muscular cat with a long body, blue eyes and a softer overall expression than its size might suggest. Females are often smaller than males, and young cats should not be judged as if they were fully developed. It is normal for the chest, head and musculature to continue developing for several years.

The breed is pointed, which means that the face, ears, legs and tail carry more colour than the warmer parts of the body. The pigment is temperature-sensitive, so kittens are born very pale and their colour develops later. The breed standard distinguishes three patterns:

- **Colourpoint:** darker points without white areas.
- **Mitted:** a pointed cat with white paws and a white chin; other white markings are defined by the standard.
- **Bicolour:** more white on the face and body, often with an inverted white V on the face.

The coat is medium-long to long, soft and silky. It can be easier to maintain than the coat of some other long-haired cats, but it is not maintenance-free. Comb through the entire coat regularly and increase the frequency if tangles start to form. Bathe the cat when its coat needs it, not according to a fixed schedule for the breed. Introduce the cat gradually to a comb, claw checks and other handling, and stop before it becomes distressed.

## Temperament & Personality

Ragdolls are often calm, quiet, curious and interested in staying close to their family. This is a useful description of the breed, but not a promise of a particular personality. A Ragdoll can be sociable without being a lap cat, and even a confident cat may want to decide when physical contact starts and ends.

The breed name comes from the tendency of some individuals to relax when lifted. It must not be taken to mean that every Ragdoll likes being carried, and the claim that the breed is insensitive to pain is false. Only lift a cat when it is comfortable with this, support both the front and hindquarters, and put it down when it wants to leave. For children, the most important rule is therefore not that the breed is “tolerant”, but that contact is calm, voluntary and supervised. A child must allow the cat to walk away and never treat it as a toy.

When meeting an adult cat or kitten, look at the actual individual. Does it seek contact after first being given space, recover after a new experience, and settle without hiding or becoming demanding? Such observations say more about daily life than labels such as “dog-like” or “perfect family cat”.

## Training & Exercise

Ragdolls need regular movement and mental stimulation, even though the breed is rarely described as intense. The goal is not a universal number of minutes but for the cat to have daily opportunities to climb, scratch, search, stalk, chase and catch in ways suited to its age and health.

Provide stable scratching furniture and resting places that can support a large adult cat. Distribute resting places, water, food, litter trays and activities instead of gathering everything in one location. Short hunting-style play sessions with a toy kept away from hands, food-search games and simple problem-solving can be varied according to the cat's response. A kitten may want more frequent and vigorous play, whereas an older cat may need lower heights, better grip and gentler movements.

Reward-based training is practical for the carrier, claw trimming, weighing and veterinary visits. Begin with a small step the cat accepts, reward calm behaviour and increase the difficulty gradually. Forced handling can make the next occasion harder. If activity changes suddenly, or the cat avoids jumping and playing, pain or illness should be ruled out rather than explaining the change as part of the breed's calm temperament.

## Health

Ragdolls can live long lives, but neither a breed name nor a single genetic test is a health guarantee. A lifespan of around 12–17 years is a broad guide, and an individual cat's life is affected by factors including inherited traits, preventive care, environment, diet and accident risk.

### HCM: separate DNA results from a heart examination

Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy, HCM, causes the heart muscle to thicken. Ragdolls have a documented variant, R820W in the MYBPC3 gene, that is associated with increased risk. A DNA test can show whether a cat carries that particular variant. A negative result, often written as N/N, does not rule out HCM from other causes.

Cardiac ultrasound answers a different question: what the heart actually looks like at the time of examination. Because changes can develop over time, both the cat's age and the examination date matter. Ask the breeder to show test and examination reports that identify the cat to which each result belongs. Ask which DNA tests and cardiac ultrasounds were performed, when they were performed and how the results are used in the breeding programme. A claim that a line is “HCM-free” should not replace documentation.

### Kidneys and weight

The Swedish Ragdoll club does not identify a particular kidney disorder as characteristic of the breed, but it recommends renal ultrasound for breeding cats as part of its health programme. Do not confuse a renal ultrasound with a PKD1 DNA test, and do not assume that the availability of a test in a laboratory catalogue proves a general breed risk. Instead, ask which examination was performed, on which cat, what the result was and why that method was chosen.

Because the Ragdoll is large and its coat hides the body outline, kilograms alone are a poor measure of an appropriate weight. Monitor the ribs, waist, abdominal line and muscle mass together with a veterinarian's assessment. A gradual change in weight or loss of muscle is more informative than comparison with another Ragdoll.

## History & Origins

The Ragdoll was developed by Ann Baker in Riverside, California, during the 1960s, with the white cat Josephine as an important foundation cat. This is the reliable core of the breed's early history. Many more dramatic stories were repeated later, particularly that a road accident changed Josephine's genes or made her offspring unusually relaxed. There is no support for treating that story as a genetic explanation of the breed's temperament.

The breed was developed further by selecting cats for the desired appearance and temperament. FIFe granted the Ragdoll full recognition in 1991, and the first Ragdoll was registered with SVERAK in 1992. The modern breed standard describes a large, pointed cat with blue eyes in colourpoint, mitted or bicolour patterns. The history therefore explains the breed's name and development, but it must not be used to predict how every individual will respond to handling.

## Living with the Breed

Ragdolls can do well in a flat or a house when the environment provides choice, movement and security. The fact that the breed is often kept indoors does not reduce its need to climb, hide, scratch and rehearse hunting through play. An indoor cat therefore needs vertical space, hiding places, scratching surfaces and multiple locations for rest, food, water and toileting. Secure windows and balconies. If the cat is to go outdoors, choose the arrangement according to traffic, predators, infection risk and the cat's experience; an enclosed outdoor area or harness can provide controlled access.

Many Ragdolls seek human company, but a safe amount of time alone cannot be calculated from breed alone. Swedish animal welfare guidance states that a cat must be checked at least twice a day, but this is a minimum level of supervision and not a promise that a sociable individual will cope well with long, repeated days alone. Observe how the cat eats, plays, rests and seeks contact. A second cat is not an automatic solution: the relationship must work, and each cat needs its own separated resources.

Introduce new animals slowly. Begin with separate safe areas and scent exchange, proceed to brief meetings through a barrier and let the cat set the pace. When introducing a dog, keep the dog under control and always give the cat a clear escape route upwards or to a dog-free room. Do not leave them unsupervised until their interactions are stable.

When buying in Sweden, check the cat's identity, pedigree, vaccination and veterinary inspection certificates, written contract and the health records cited by the breeder. A SVERAK-registered kitten is normally transferred no earlier than 14 weeks; transfer from 12 weeks requires veterinary approval under the federation's exception rule. The minimum age under Swedish law is 12 weeks when the transfer conditions are met, which is not the same as SVERAK's main rule. The cat must also be identified and registered by four months of age. Check the original documents and make sure that identification numbers, names and dates belong to the correct cat and parent animals.

Ragdoll

The Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF)

Fédération Internationale Féline (FIFe)

The British Ragdoll Cat Club

The International Cat Association (TICA)

Nordic Ragdoll Club

Large, muscular pointed cat with silky semi‑long coat and vivid blue eyes that stay blue for life. Relaxed and floppy when handled, it matures slowly, is calm, affectionate, people‑focused, and suits mainly indoor life. Coat needs regular but moderate grooming.

SE Lovella's är en uppfödare av rasen Ragdoll med bas i Svalöv i Sverige.

SE*Lovella’s

Maine Coon

Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF) - United Kingdom

Fédération Internationale Féline (FIFe) - France

Maine Coon-Katzen e.V. (German Maine Coon Club) - Germany

The Norwegian Forest Cat Club (includes information on Maine Coons) - Norway

The Cat Fanciers' Association (CFA) - United Kingdom

Large, sturdy North American cat with a rectangular body, tufted paws, and a semi‑long, weather‑resistant coat that’s relatively easy to groom. Friendly, playful “gentle giant” that chirps and trills, enjoys family life and other pets, and needs space, stimulation, and regular care.

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