## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

Staffar I Kulör

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Vi följer Skks samt rasklubbens rekommendationer.

Ricka Rackas

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

En tidigare mopsinriktning sätter dagens Labrador retriever-profil i sammanhang för Four Step’s i Köping. Den egna webbplatsen anger 1999 för den första mopsen, 2011 för den första labradoren och 2014 för den första labradorkullen. Där står även att uppfödningen därefter helt övergick till labrador, vilket ger tre daterade hållpunkter i kennelns rashistorik.

Four Step’s

## Quick Facts

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a small but sturdy and active farm and companion dog from Denmark and Sweden. The FCI places the breed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog. It is therefore not a terrier, although it was previously called the Scanian Terrier.

- **Height at the withers:** 34–37 cm for males and 32–35 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 2 cm either way.
- **Original purpose:** to raise the alarm, catch rats and live closely with the people on the farm.
- **Temperament according to the breed standard:** alert, lively and attentive.
- **Coat:** short, harsh and smooth, with white as the dominant colour.
- **Best suited to:** a person or family who wants to teach everyday skills, provide both physical activity and scent work, and help the dog to settle.

The breed standard gives no official weight. Figures found on different websites should therefore be treated as guidelines, not as a range into which every adult Danish Swedish Farmdog must fit. When choosing a puppy, the parents’ size, body condition and soundness are more useful than a single weight range.

## Appearance & Coat

The Danish Swedish Farmdog should be small, compact and substantial, not fine or elegant. The body is slightly rectangular: the ratio of height at the withers to body length is 9:10. The breed matures physically at a late stage, and full muscle mass and body substance may not develop until the dog is three to four years old.

The head is relatively small and triangular. The ears may be rose-shaped or folded forwards; pricked ears are not part of the breed ideal. The tail may be naturally long or a congenital bobtail of varying length. A congenital bobtail is a natural variation and should not be confused with a docked tail.

The coat is harsh, short and smooth and has no undercoat. White should predominate, with patches of one or more colours: black, tan, yellow, liver, agouti or various shades of fawn. Patches should also be present on the head, and flecking in the white is permitted. Appearance can therefore vary considerably without the dogs belonging to different varieties of the breed.

The coat needs little care, although shedding can be noticeable. Brush out loose hair as required, particularly during periods of heavier shedding, and bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. Check the skin, ears, paws and claws at the same time. Introduce the puppy gradually to tooth brushing and other handling. Calm, reward-based handling practice makes both routine care and veterinary visits easier.

## Temperament & Personality

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is usually quick, curious and people-oriented, but the breed name is no guarantee of an easy-going family dog. The standard describes the breed as alert, lively and attentive. In daily life, this often means being ready to join in, reacting to movement and letting people know when something is happening nearby.

The farm watchdog role is still apparent in many individuals. Many will bark to alert when someone arrives, but how readily barking starts and how quickly the dog becomes quiet varies. In a home where sound carries easily, it is sensible to find out how the parents and adult relatives react to doors, communal stairwells and visitors. This is more informative than assuming that the breed is always quiet or always vocal.

In the Swedish Kennel Club’s older BPH behavioural assessment summary, the breed appears mainly confident and relatively energetic. At the same time, curiosity, playfulness and interest in unfamiliar people vary clearly. BPH describes a dog’s reactions; it is not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the individual dog’s assessment record and ask how the parents behave in everyday life.

The breed’s background as a rat catcher makes interest in small, fast-moving animals relevant. This does not mean that every Farmdog chases everything it sees, but a prospective owner should expect to teach interruption cues and recall. Rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets need secure areas that the dog cannot access.

## Training & Exercise

The Danish Swedish Farmdog needs regular physical and mental activity, but there is no correct hourly rule that suits every dog. Age, health, intensity, environment and recovery determine what a good day looks like. An adult dog can have a mixture of walks, free movement in a safe place, scent work, play and short sessions of everyday training. Puppies need gradually increasing experiences and plenty of rest, not a miniature version of an adult programme.

Watch the dog’s behaviour rather than the clock. An appropriate amount leaves a dog able to settle at home, recover after activity and still move freely the next day. Persistent restlessness may mean that daily life lacks meaningful tasks, but more high-speed activity is not always the answer. Sometimes the dog needs more scent work, clearer routines or help to settle.

Prioritise skills that help a quick and attentive dog function in daily life:

- recall and voluntary check-ins when wildlife or other distractions appear
- being able to stop chasing, digging and intense play
- calm behaviour at doors, windows and when visitors arrive
- being able to rest while people move around the home
- loose-lead walking and responsiveness in busy environments
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and body

Train progressively with positive, reward-based methods and adjust the difficulty to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means that barking, pulling or overexcitement can become established if it repeatedly leads to what the dog wants. Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework and other dog sports may suit the breed, but no particular activity is essential. What matters is a sustainable combination of cooperation, scent work, movement and recovery.

## Health

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but the description “healthy breed” is no substitute for checking the specific litter. Ask for registered results, dates and information about close relatives. The name of a test or a statement that the parents are health tested says too little without the actual results.

Hip dysplasia, HD, is an area in which old and current information is easily confused. The breed currently has a Swedish Kennel Club health programme at Level 1. This means that HD results can be recorded centrally, but radiography is not required for the puppies to be registered. According to the breed club, dogs with HD grade D or E or with clinical symptoms should not be used for breeding. An official result and, where available, an HD index still provide useful information about the hips specifically; they are not a certificate of the dog’s overall health.

For patellar luxation, the breed club’s current recommendations state that a dog affected by the condition or operated on for it should not be used for breeding. The recommendation does not, however, mean that all parents must have an official patella result. Ask both about examinations and about knee problems in the parents, siblings and previous offspring.

Primary lens luxation, PLL, is a serious eye disease associated with a mutation in the ADAMTS17 gene, and a validated DNA test is available for the breed. The breed club particularly recommends testing where there are carriers or untested close relatives in the line without a DNA-tested clear dog in between. According to the recommendation, a carrier may only be mated to a DNA-tested clear dog or one that is clear by descent, also known as hereditarily clear. A clear PLL result applies to this mutation; it does not rule out other eye problems or other diseases.

Before buying, it is reasonable to check:

- the parents’ identities and actual HD results, if they have been radiographed
- any patella examinations and the known family history
- PLL status and how the result fits with that of the other parent
- diseases, lameness, dental problems and temperament in close relatives
- that the breeder can explain both the strengths and uncertainties of the mating

## History & Origins

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is an old Scandinavian farm dog type but a comparatively recently recognised breed. Similar dogs lived on farms in Denmark and southern Sweden for a long time, where they controlled rats, raised the alarm when someone arrived and served as companions. Exactly how the type developed is not known. Links with pinschers and British white hunting terriers have been discussed, but should not be presented as a certain pedigree.

Before recognition, names including Scanian Terrier were used. At a Swedish survey in 1986, 107 dogs were brought together, contributing to the conclusion that the type was sufficiently consistent while also retaining useful genetic variation. Sweden and Denmark jointly recognised the breed in 1987 under the name Danish Swedish Farmdog.

The FCI granted the breed provisional international recognition in 2008 and definitive recognition in 2019. It was placed in Group 2 as a pinscher-type dog, not in the terrier group. Most are companion dogs today, but the urge to alert, interest in small rodents and strong desire to work make the breed’s history relevant even in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is best suited to a home where companionship, activity and everyday training are a natural part of life. It can suit a first-time owner, but its compact size does not make the breed undemanding. The owner needs to appreciate a quick dog, be able to prevent chasing and alert barking, and be prepared to train calmness as carefully as energetic activities.

Interactions with children should always be supervised by an adult. The dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed, and children should not bother it when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Assess the parents’ behaviour and the individual dog’s ability to break off play; the phrase “child-friendly breed” is not a guarantee of safety.

A Farmdog can live with a cat, but the outcome depends on the individuals and the introduction. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat, give the cat high places and clear escape routes, and keep the first meetings short and controlled. Small animals such as rabbits and rodents should be kept physically separate even if the dog appears calm under supervision.

Flat living can work if the dog gets outside, has opportunities to use its nose and learns not to alert at every sound in the building. A garden does not replace activity, and a large home does not solve being left alone. Begin alone-time training with very short periods when the dog is secure and calm, increase the time only when it can genuinely relax, and arrange other care if daily life requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

If possible, meet both parents or other adult relatives before deciding. Observe how they greet people, recover after a surprise, react to small animals and sounds, and settle after activity. That information, together with verifiable health data and a breeder who knows their lines, says more about daily life than general promises that the breed suits everyone.

Danish Swedish Farmdog

Swedish Kennel Club

Danish Kennel Club

The Danish/Swedish Farmdog Club of America

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Danish Swedish Farmdog is a lively, medium‑small Scandinavian farm breed, compact and athletic with a smooth, mainly white coat and colored patches. Highly people‑oriented, intelligent, and energetic, it excels as an affectionate family companion when given daily exercise, training, and mental stimulation.

Vi på Hepilos föder upp Dansk-svensk gårdshund i Fjärås. Hundar från vår uppfödning har representerat oss från valpklass 2023 och 2025 till juniorklass 2026. Hepilos har också förekommit i avelsklass, med Fjärås genomgående som uppfödarort för vår verksamhet.

Hepilos

## Quick Facts

The Russkiy Toy is a very small Russian companion dog that combines a delicate build with an alert, active nature. It is recognised by the FCI and comes in two coat varieties: smooth-haired and longhaired.

- The breed standard gives a height of 22–27 cm and a maximum weight of 3 kg. The same measurements apply to males and females.
- The Russkiy Toy should be active, very cheerful, curious and strongly attached to its owner, but neither shy nor aggressive.
- The smooth-haired variety has a short, glossy coat without an undercoat. The longhaired variety has a moderately long coat and pronounced feathering on the ears, legs and tail.
- A Russkiy Toy needs daily walks, play and activities that use its mind. It may be tiny, but it should not be treated as an ornament.
- Its body is light and fine-boned. Time with children and larger dogs therefore needs to be calm and carefully supervised.
- In Swedish breeding, an official patella result is a registration requirement. The breed club also has current policies on patella results and eye examinations.

The breed may suit someone who wants a responsive dog for a close everyday relationship and enjoys short training sessions, walks and shared activities. It is less well suited to a home where such a tiny dog could be dropped, stepped on or exposed to rough play.

## Appearance & Coat

The Russkiy Toy is small, elegant and almost square, with long legs, fine bone and lean muscle. It should look balanced and mobile, rather than heavy or excessively frail. Its large, thin, upright ears are a defining feature. The standard specifies 22–27 cm at the withers and no more than 3 kg, with 25 cm and 2.3 kg given as preferred reference points. No breeder can promise the final size of an individual puppy, so look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

Both coat varieties belong to the same breed. The smooth coat is short, close-lying and glossy, with no undercoat or bald patches. On the longhaired variety, the coat on the body and neck is about 3–5 cm long. It should lie close and be straight or slightly wavy, with pronounced feathering on the legs and tail. In an adult longhaired dog, the long hair on the ears forms the characteristic fringes.

Accepted colours include black, brown, blue or a very pale diluted shade with tan markings, as well as red in different shades with or without darker hair tips, cream and fawn. Small differences in colour say nothing about a dog's temperament or ability to cope with everyday life.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Check the skin and coat regularly, comb the longhaired variety's fringes before tangles develop and bathe the dog when it is dirty. The frequency depends on coat volume, weather and lifestyle, not a fixed weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. The natural tail is of medium length; tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Russkiy Toy should be active, very cheerful, curious and closely attached to its person. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will react. Genetics, upbringing, experience and the situation itself all influence whether a dog greets unfamiliar people and places with confidence, caution or anxiety.

Many individuals quickly notice sounds and movement. Barking can therefore become an everyday issue, particularly in communal stairwells or at windows. Start early by rewarding calm behaviour, teach the dog to move away from the door or window on cue and provide an undisturbed resting place. Picking the dog up whenever something happens rarely addresses the underlying problem; with your support, it needs to practise coping with situations that are challenging but still manageable.

Socialisation does not mean making a puppy greet everyone. The aim is for it to see people, dogs, traffic, different surfaces and other ordinary sights without being pushed beyond what it can handle. Choose calm canine contacts and allow the puppy to increase the distance. The breed is so small that a friendly but boisterous larger dog can cause injury without intending to.

When assessing a puppy's likely temperament, meet the mother and, if possible, other adult relatives. Ask how they respond to visitors, noise, handling, dog encounters and recovery after a surprise. A BPH behavioural assessment can add information about the reactions of dogs that have taken part, but it is not a simple pass-or-fail test.

## Training & Exercise

The Russkiy Toy needs to move, explore and learn every day. Its size does not remove the need for walks or mental activity, although the amount and intensity must suit the dog's age, health, the weather and the individual. A good routine includes several opportunities to go outside, walks with time to sniff, play, brief skills sessions and time to settle. There is no authoritative number of minutes that suits every dog of the breed.

Reward-based, progressive training suits this quick dog, which is often keen to work with its owner. Prioritise recall, calm dog encounters, walking on a loose lead, comfortable handling of the paws and mouth, and the ability to relax in a designated place. Also practise waiting at doors and teach the dog not to launch itself from someone's arms or from furniture. For a dog weighing no more than 3 kg, controlled movement and safe everyday habits matter.

The breed may enjoy activities such as rally obedience, scent work, tracking, canine freestyle and agility with equipment and surfaces suited to its size. The activity should build confidence and cooperation, not merely raise arousal. If the dog becomes scattered, barks more or struggles to settle, it may need easier tasks and more recovery rather than automatically needing more exercise.

Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop strength without long forced distances or repeated high jumps. Increase demands gradually. Cold, wet weather and strong heat can affect a very small dog quickly, so adjust the outing to how the dog is actually moving and feeling.

## Health

The most important verifiable health checks for the Russkiy Toy in Sweden concern the knees, eyes and mouth. This does not mean that every dog will become ill; it gives prospective owners clear records to check and breeders evidence on which to base mating decisions.

The Russkiy Toy is covered by a Swedish health programme for patellar luxation. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have an official patella result recorded before mating. The examination can be performed from 12 months of age by a veterinarian with the required specialist qualification. Results are graded from 0 to 3. Check the dog's identity, the examination date and the result rather than accepting only that the knees have been “checked”.

The Swedish Russkiy Toy Club's breeding policy is stricter than the registration requirement itself. Since 18 March 2026, the club's policy allows a maximum result of 0/1, and such a dog may only be mated to one with 0/0. The club also requires an official eye certificate no more than one year old for its breeder, puppy referral and stud-dog lists. It is important to distinguish the club's policy from the Swedish Kennel Club's binding registration rule.

Individual findings including different forms of cataract, progressive retinal atrophy and vitreous prolapse have been documented in the breed. This supports checking current eye results, but it does not mean that every Russkiy Toy carries the same risk or that one old examination describes the dog's eye status for life. If a result contains a finding, ask for its exact diagnostic name and the examining veterinarian's recommendation.

Teeth need attention from puppyhood. Check that the deciduous teeth fall out as the adult teeth emerge and ask a veterinarian to assess any that remain. Introduce tooth brushing early, preferably daily, to reduce plaque and tartar. Claims about heart disease, hypoglycaemia or a general need for DNA tests do not have sufficiently current breed-specific support to be presented as universal risks. Such questions need an individual veterinary assessment.

## History & Origins

The Russkiy Toy's earlier origins are not fully established, so a reliable account begins with its documented development during the twentieth century. The English Toy Terrier was a popular small dog in Russia at the beginning of the century. Between 1920 and 1950, almost all organised breeding in the Soviet Union ceased and numbers fell sharply.

In the mid-1950s, Russian breeders began rebuilding a distinct toy-terrier type. Many of the dogs had no pedigree, and the new standard came to differ clearly from that of the English Toy Terrier. The Russkiy Toy subsequently developed as a breed in its own right.

The longhaired variety has an unusually well-documented starting point. On 12 October 1958, a male puppy was born to two smooth-haired dogs, one of which had slightly longer hair. The puppy developed long fringes on his ears and legs. Breeders retained the trait under the guidance of the Moscow breeder Yevgueniya Fominichna Zharova, and the variety became known as the Moscow Longhaired Toy Terrier.

The FCI accepted the breed provisionally in 2006 and definitively in 2017. Sweden recognised it in 2006; that same year, its name was changed to Russkiy Toy and it was placed in group 9 for companion and toy dogs. Today, smooth-haired and longhaired dogs are two varieties of the same recognised breed.

Stories about aristocratic ladies, rat catching and “living doorbells” appear in older breed writing, but the Swedish breed strategy describes the early history as difficult to establish and largely based on hearsay. Those accounts should therefore not be presented as certain history.

## Living with the Breed

A Russkiy Toy can live well in either a flat or a house. The size of the property matters less than regular opportunities to go outside, activity, rest and training. In a block of flats, particular attention is needed around noises, doorways and barking. A tiny body does not mean that walks can be replaced by carrying the dog or providing an indoor toilet.

With children, the key question is not whether the breed is “good with children”, but whether the adults can protect both dog and child. Young children should always have an adult present. They should not carry or chase the dog, or disturb it while it is eating or resting. Provide a safe place where the child does not follow. Even an accidental fall can injure a dog weighing no more than 3 kg.

The same care is needed with larger dogs. Choose calm playmates, interrupt physically rough play and do not treat the size difference as an experiment. Living with a cat or another dog can work, but it depends on the individuals and the introduction. Begin at a distance with short, controlled meetings. A cat should have separate resources and a safe escape route.

Alone time should be taught gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Start with very short distances and absences, and increase them only when the dog can rest. A camera can help reveal pacing, vocalising or attempts to follow. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's guidance that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a statement of how long an individual dog is comfortable alone; puppies, older dogs and anxious individuals need more frequent supervision and outings.

Before buying, check:

- that the names and registration numbers match on the parents' records and certificates,
- the official patella result and examination date for both parents,
- current eye results and the meaning of any findings,
- how the puppy's and adult relatives' teeth, movement and temperament have been followed up,
- how the breeder introduces puppies to handling, everyday sounds, different surfaces and very brief periods of separation.

The right home sees the Russkiy Toy as a real dog in miniature: active, quick to learn and social, but also physically vulnerable in situations that a larger dog might cope with easily.

Russkiy Toy

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Tiny, elegant toy breed (1–3 kg, 20–28 cm) with smooth or long coat. Lively, athletic, and strongly attached to family, often choosing a favorite person. Alert and vocal, suited to gentle, consistent training and moderate exercise, but physically delicate and needs careful handling.

Julias Real

Asadotter

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

Howling Moon

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Vi på Icecrown föder upp Cocker spaniel i Hässleholm. Fyra hundar från vår uppfödning, en hane och en tik i både valpklass och öppen klass, representerade oss på Öland 2025. Samtliga har samma far och Hässleholm som uppfödarort inom vår cockeruppfödning.

Icecrown

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

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Glödberget’s

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

För Piece of art´s, Pudel, dvärg och Pudel, toy i Tumba, tillför en SKK Hunddata-post ett generationsspår för dvärgstorleken: prefixet står både i postens namn och på den angivna modern. Den enskilda registerposten kompletterar därmed profilens två pudelstorlekar med en dokumenterad generationskoppling för den ena.

Piece of art´s

## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Vi på Blue Berry Springers föder upp Mops i Viken. Vår uppfödning omfattar både fawn, även kallad gul, och svart mops. Kombinationen av de två färgvarianterna är en konkret del av vår rasinriktning och fanns angiven för kenneln 2024.

Blue Berry Springers

## Quick Facts

- The Samoyed is a medium-sized Arctic spitz from northern Russia and Siberia. It is still built and temperamentally suited to an active life of sustained work.
- The breed standard defines its purpose as a sled and companion dog. This is therefore not simply a white family pet, but a working polar breed that needs to use its body.
- An adult male weighs about 20–25 kg and a female 16–20 kg. The ideal height is 57 cm for males and 53 cm for females, with a tolerance of three centimetres either way.
- The abundant double coat sheds heavily. Regular grooming, with extra work during a moult, is part of everyday ownership.
- The typical temperament is friendly, open, alert and lively. The breed is also independent, and prey interest, responsiveness and noise can vary considerably between individuals and lines.
- The Samoyed is best suited to someone who wants an active life throughout the year and has time for training, coat care and a dog that takes part in daily life.

## Appearance & Coat

The Samoyed should be an agile, enduring Arctic spitz, athletic rather than heavy. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, the ears are erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is alert. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 57 cm for males and 53 cm for females, in both cases with a tolerance of three centimetres. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs 20–25 kg and a female 16–20 kg.

The so-called “Samoyed smile” comes from the almond-shaped eyes and slightly upturned corners of the mouth. It describes the breed’s expression; it does not promise a particular personality, nor is it a documented mechanism for preventing drool or ice.

The coat has a short, soft, dense undercoat and longer, straighter, coarser guard hairs. Males often have a more pronounced ruff, while a female’s coat is often slightly shorter and softer. Permitted colours are pure white, cream, and white with a small amount of biscuit marking.

Let the condition of the coat determine the grooming routine instead of following a rigid weekly timetable. Work through it to the skin, paying particular attention to places where moisture and loose hair can remain trapped. Grooming needs to be more frequent and thorough during a moult. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it and dry the entire coat properly afterwards so that moisture is not left next to the skin. The coat should not normally be clipped or shaved to make routine care easier; discuss any medically necessary clipping with a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Samoyed is friendly, outgoing with people, alert and lively. The breed standard describes it as highly social and unsuitable as a guard dog. This does not mean that every dog greets people in the same way or that the breed name guarantees confidence in every setting. Breeding, early experiences, training and the individual dog’s disposition all matter.

Swedish breeding goals call for dogs that are approachable, outgoing and at ease with both people and other dogs. BPH behaviour-assessment results from 2015–2025 broadly follow that desired profile. They do not, however, predict how an individual puppy will develop. Look at the parents and close relatives in ordinary life rather than relying only on a breed description or an average.

Independence is part of the way this breed works. A Samoyed should be able to take initiative, remain focused on a physical task and work without being excessively dependent on its handler. In daily life, the same traits can appear as persistence, ideas of its own and a dog that does not always choose to follow you. Training is easier when the task is clear, the reward is worthwhile and repetition is kept purposeful.

Prey interest must also be assessed dog by dog. The breed standard describes the hunting instinct as only weakly developed, while the Swedish Kennel Club’s current buyer guidance warns that a strong hunting instinct may still occur. Do not assume that a Samoyed will be safe off lead simply because of its breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Samoyed needs regular physical activity and generally thrives when some of it has a clear purpose. Work in harness, hiking, carrying a pack and other endurance activities are close to the breed’s intended function. Scent work, everyday training and problem-solving add variety, but they do not replace the opportunity to move and work physically.

As a common starting point for an adult, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests at least an hour’s walk every day plus physical training three or four times a week. Treat this as a guide, not an exact dose. Age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and intensity determine what is appropriate. Puppies and adolescents should build muscle and workload gradually rather than follow an adult dog’s programme.

The dog can learn two separate rules: to lean into the working harness and pull on cue, and to walk on a loose everyday lead. Use equipment made for the activity, teach clear starting cues and increase distance, speed and load gradually. An official polar-dog working merit shows that the dog has completed defined work under the test conditions. It provides useful evidence of function, but it does not prove that the dog is free from joint disease, heart disease or fear in ordinary life.

In warm weather, adjust the workload to the conditions and to that individual dog’s response. Schedule harder sessions for cooler parts of the day, choose a suitable surface, provide water and stop if the dog is not recovering normally. A universal temperature cut-off is misleading because humidity, sun, speed, fitness and the individual dog all affect heat load.

Start recall training early, but never overestimate it. A long line or enclosed space gives the dog room to move when the surroundings are too difficult for safe off-lead exercise. This is particularly important if the dog shows prey interest or is inclined to choose its own route.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, or HD, occurs in the Samoyed. In the breed’s new Swedish breeding strategy, about 20–25 per cent of screened dogs born from 2019 to 2024 received C, D or E results. The figure applies to examined dogs and cannot simply be treated as the rate in the whole population, but hip results are well worth checking when choosing a puppy.

For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official HD result before mating. The Samoyed is also covered by the Swedish HD index scheme: an average parental index above 100 is recommended, and dogs with D or E results may not be used for breeding. The position is therefore more nuanced than the claim that only A- and B-graded dogs can be included in a mating. Check both parents’ results, their index at the time of mating, and results among siblings and previous offspring in SKK Avelsdata.

The breed club also recommends an eye examination from 18 months of age, with no abnormality or only a finding classed as non-hereditary. The current breeding strategy shows that only a small proportion of Samoyeds were eye examined in 2021–2024. Ask for the actual registered result rather than accepting a general assurance that the line has good eye health.

Diabetes mellitus also deserves attention. A large Swedish insurance study and later Norwegian research both placed the Samoyed among the breeds at highest risk. These studies describe risk at breed level and cannot predict whether a particular puppy will become ill. Ask about diagnoses in close relatives and discuss changes in the dog’s health promptly with a vet.

## History & Origins

The Samoyed comes from northern Russia and Siberia and takes its name from the Samoyedic peoples. In different areas, the dogs were used for hunting, hauling and, later, reindeer herding. They lived closely with people and, according to the breed standard, also helped keep them warm inside their shelters. The modern breed’s official purposes are sled work and companionship.

The small number of dogs brought from Siberia to Western Europe, together with dogs acquired by research expeditions, became the foundation of the Western population. The first Samoyed was registered by the Swedish Kennel Club in 1893. A Swedish-Norwegian standard for the Nordic spitz was published in 1908, and the first English Samoyed breed standard was written in 1909.

This history explains why modern breeding is about more than a white coat and a friendly expression. The Swedish Polar Dog Club works to preserve the breed’s polar traits and practical ability as a sled dog. Anyone choosing a Samoyed should therefore be interested in its function, not only its appearance.

## Living with the Breed

A Samoyed can live in a flat if its needs are properly met outside the home. The size of the property matters less than access to daily activity, recovery and regular time outdoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, find out how vocal the puppy’s close relatives are at home and work on calm behaviour early, because a noisy individual can quickly affect neighbours.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short, calm absences once the puppy feels secure in the home, and increase them only when it can settle. Some dogs learn quickly; others need much more time. Do not plan a puppy purchase on the assumption that your Samoyed will automatically cope with being left for a full working day.

The same safety principles apply with children as with any dog: an adult should be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The breed’s social ideal is encouraging, but a breed label is no substitute for supervision and respectful handling. Take the same care with cats and other animals. Ask how the parents behave, manage introductions carefully, and base decisions on the individual dog’s prey interest and previous experience.

The coat makes its presence felt in daily life. You need to accept loose hair, set aside time for grooming and be able to dry a wet coat thoroughly. The Samoyed is not allergy-free: dog allergens are found mainly in saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should not make a decision based on claims about a white coat, little odour or low shedding.

Check the evidence behind a breeder’s general claims of quality. Look up the parents’ HD status and current index, eye results, BPH assessments and any working merits. Ask how close relatives have performed in harness, behaved around other dogs, settled at home, coped with time alone and managed in warm conditions. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how to groom an adult coat. A working merit records tested function, BPH records observed responses, and health registers show known results. Together they provide a better basis for a decision, but no single record guarantees how a puppy will turn out.

Samoyed

Svenska Polarhundklubben (Swedish Polar Dog Club)

Deutscher Club für Nordische Hunde e.V.

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium, strong Arctic spitz bred by the Samoyede people to herd reindeer, pull sleds, and share family tents. Noted for its “Samoyed smile” and heavy, low‑odor double coat. Social, energetic, vocal, and intelligent, it needs close companionship, firm positive training, and ample exercise.

Vi på Blåtassen föder upp Samojedhund i Sala. År 2011 var uppfödningen nystartad och vi hade deltagit i vår första dragtävling. För oss är samojeden både en aktiv draghund och en familjehund, vilket beskriver två sidor av vår rasinriktning.

Blåtassen

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Dmitro Vinogradkij

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

Vilda Vaktares

Slovensky Kopov

The Slovensky Kopov is a medium, black-and-tan scenthound bred to track and hold wild boar. Tough, enduring and vocal, it needs intensive exercise, scent work and experienced handling. Loyal to its family but reserved with strangers, it suits active rural homes more than city life.

Vi på Lé Hallaröd´s föder upp Slovenský kopov i Hallaröd. Hundar från vår uppfödning har representerat kennelnamnet i valpklass 2014 och öppen klass 2015, i Sverige respektive Slovakien. Det ger Lé Hallaröd´s två historiska framträdanden i skilda klassammanhang.

Lé Hallaröd´s

Beyond Visions

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Amchelli's Tingeling

## Quick Facts

The Irish Setter is a medium-sized, energetic pointing dog from Ireland with a strong hunting drive and a breed ideal that emphasises an affectionate nature. On Get a Pet, the breed is called **Irish Setter**. In the Swedish Kennel Club's breed standard, it is called the **Irish Red Setter**; this is the solid-red breed, not the Irish Red and White Setter, which is a separate breed.

- **Breed group:** Group 7, pointing dogs
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Original purpose:** To search for gamebirds, point them, flush the bird on command and retrieve after the shot
- **Height at the withers:** 58–67 cm for males and 55–62 cm for females
- **Weight:** Not specified in the breed standard
- **Activity level:** High; the breed needs both physical activity and tasks that engage its nose and ability to work with a handler every day
- **Best suited to:** An active home that wants to train regularly and can manage hunting drive, recall and a substantial need for movement

This is not primarily a companion dog with a fixed exercise schedule. The breed was developed to work across large areas, and that background is evident in its speed, stamina, independence and interest in bird scent.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Setter should be athletic, balanced and built for fast, sustained movement—not heavy or excessively coated. According to the standard, males should stand 58–67 cm at the withers and females 55–62 cm. The standard does not specify a weight, so an appropriate body condition must be assessed on the individual dog.

The colour is a rich chestnut red with no black. Small white markings may be permitted under the standard, but an Irish Setter should not be confused with the separately recognised Irish Red and White Setter.

The coat is short and fine on the head, the fronts of the legs and the tips of the ears. On the rest of the body, it is moderately long and should lie as flat and free from curl or wave as possible. There is longer, silky feathering on the ears and legs, among other areas. The coat should enhance a functional dog, not obscure the body's outline or impede movement.

Coat care should be based on the dog's actual needs, not a fixed weekly schedule. Check the feathering, the coat around the ears and neck, and the hair around the feet after outings in rough ground. Gently work out developing tangles before they tighten, and remove seeds, twigs and dirt. This is not a traditionally clipped breed, but stray or tangle-prone hair around the ears, neck and feet can be tidied carefully. Excessive shaping does not belong to the breed's functional appearance.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Setter's breed ideal is intense, intelligent, energetic, affectionate and loyal, but friendliness does not automatically make the breed easy. Its strong hunting drive and ability to work at a distance mean that a young or untrained dog can be fast, easily distracted and difficult to reach when the surroundings become more interesting than the handler.

When its needs are met, the breed can be calm and pleasant indoors and highly intense outside. This is a useful description of the breed's two modes, but it is not a guarantee for every individual. Inheritance, upbringing, recovery, training and the everyday environment all influence how a dog behaves at home.

An Irish Setter can suit a committed first-time owner, but not someone looking for a dog that is satisfied with ordinary lead walks and a little weekend activity. The owner needs to enjoy training even when progress comes gradually and be able to prevent hunting drive from becoming a safety problem.

Labels such as “hunting line” and “show line” are not enough to predict everyday behaviour. Instead, ask how the parents and adult close relatives behave at home, how they work outside, how readily they settle and what hunting or other working achievements they actually have. Variation can occur both between and within litters.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Setter needs substantial daily activity, but no single number of hours is right for every adult dog. Age, health, fitness, the individual and the content of the activity determine the load. A slow walk and a search exercise in open ground may take the same amount of time while placing very different demands on the dog.

The breed's original way of working explains what often motivates it: the dog searches quickly and systematically for gamebirds, points when it locates the game, flushes on the handler's command and retrieves after the shot. A companion dog does not need to take part in practical hunting, but everyday life should provide outlets for the same core traits through activities such as movement over varied terrain, scent work, search exercises, retrieving and tasks that require contact with the handler.

Build recall early in a quiet environment and increase distractions gradually. With this breed's hunting drive, a securely enclosed area or a long line is a safer intermediate step than taking a chance off lead. A long line should be attached to a harness and used well away from traffic. Off-lead freedom should come only when the dog can disengage and return even when scent, birds or movement compete for its attention.

For a puppy, short walks, play, environmental learning and simple cooperative exercises are better building blocks than an adult dog's workload. Increase the load gradually and allow plenty of sleep and recovery. The often-repeated “five-minute rule”—five minutes of exercise per month of age—has no scientific support as a universal model and should not replace an assessment of the puppy's size, development and response to the activity.

## Health

For the Irish Setter, it is important to distinguish between conditions that may occur, formal Swedish breeding requirements and test results that are centrally recorded and displayed. A long list of diagnoses tells a puppy buyer less than documented results for the parents and an open account of health among close relatives.

- **Hip dysplasia (HD):** Parent dogs must have an official hip status before mating for the offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The breed also has an HD index. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that the parents' average index be above 100 at the time of mating, and the breed-specific rule states that dogs graded D or E should not be used for breeding.
- **CLAD:** Canine leukocyte adhesion deficiency is a serious defect of the white blood cells and is inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. The previous requirement for a DNA test or hereditarily clear status for litter registration was removed in 2014, but results can still be recorded centrally. The breed club continues to recommend testing foreign and imported breeding dogs whose status is unknown.
- **rcd4-PRA:** This is a specific, recessively inherited form of the retinal disease PRA. Following a decision in 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club records and publishes DNA results for Irish Setters in Hunddata and Avelsdata. The test shows the dog's status for the specific rcd4 mutation; it does not rule out other forms of PRA.

Ask the breeder to show the parents' registered hip results and explain the mating's HD index. Also request documented CLAD and rcd4 status and an explanation of how the results informed the mating. Check the information in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata rather than relying on verbal assurances. In addition, ask about recurring disease, mobility problems, eye problems and longevity in parents, siblings and older close relatives. This gives a more relevant picture than assuming that every individual will develop everything ever reported in the breed.

## History & Origins

The Irish Red Setter was developed in Ireland as a working hunting dog, and the modern breed's history is closely tied to gamebird hunting. According to the breed standard, it descends from the Irish Red and White Setter combined with an unknown solid-red dog. A recognisable type existed in Ireland during the 1700s.

The Irish Red Setter Club was founded in 1882 and published a breed standard in 1886. This helped define the identity and characteristics of the solid-red breed. The first imported dogs arrived in Sweden in the 1890s, and the Swedish Irish Setter Club was founded in 1910.

At the core of the breed standard is a functional dog with speed, strength, stamina and a friendly expression. The history is therefore more than background: it explains why hunting drive, a need for movement and work with a handler remain central to life with the breed today.

## Living with the Breed

The Irish Setter is best suited to an active home that can provide daily movement, training and recovery, whether the home is a house or a flat. A garden does not replace activity, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. In a flat, quick access to suitable exercise areas, practical daily routines, noise levels and the dog's ability to settle become particularly important.

The breed can become a warm and close family member, but “good with children” should not be taken to mean risk-free. A large, fast and playful dog can knock over a small child without meaning to. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Adults must remain responsible for walks, exercise and training.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and how introductions are managed. Early exposure is no guarantee, especially with a dog bred to react to bird scent and movement. When introducing a cat, the animals should first have separate safe areas, the cat should have clear escape routes, and early meetings should be calm and use a barrier or lead. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is well understood.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in how easily they learn. Start with very short, uneventful periods when the dog feels secure and increase the duration only when it can relax. A home in which the dog will regularly be left alone for a full working day without help is a poor match.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Does daily life have room for meaningful activity even on dark, rainy working days? Can you train recall and manage the dog safely before it is reliable off lead? Can the breeder show health records and describe the parents as individuals, rather than only by a line label? If any answer is no, it is sensible to choose a less demanding breed or wait.

Irish Setter

The Irish Setter Club of Germany

The Irish Setter Breeders Club (UK)

Graceful Irish gundog with a mahogany red, feathered coat needing regular grooming. Medium‑large, athletic and high‑energy, it thrives on daily vigorous exercise and mental work. Affectionate, people‑oriented and playful, it’s good with families but needs consistent, positive training.

Ackers

## Quick Facts

The Brussels Griffon is a small Belgian companion dog with a rough red coat, a short muzzle and an alert expression. The breed standard gives a weight of 3.5–6 kg but no height; assess proportions, movement and function rather than relying on an uncertain figure in centimetres.

- **Origin and purpose:** Belgium; a companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Weight:** 3.5–6 kg under the breed standard. No official height is specified.
- **Coat:** Rough with an undercoat, naturally harsh and slightly wavy. The colour is red or reddish; a little black on the muzzle is allowed.
- **Temperament:** The ideal is a balanced, alert and attentive dog that is neither timid nor aggressive. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as active, friendly and quick to learn, but every dog must be assessed individually.
- **Key health checks:** The breed club recommends patella and eye examinations for breeding dogs. Results from RFG breathing assessments have been centrally recorded since May 2026, but the assessment is not currently required before breeding.

The Brussels Griffon, Belgian Griffon and Petit Brabançon are three separate breeds with a shared origin which the Swedish Kennel Club permits to be bred to one another. That does not make a black rough-coated Belgian Griffon or a smooth-coated Petit Brabançon a coat variety of the Brussels Griffon.

## Appearance & Coat

The Brussels Griffon should be small, sturdy and nearly square, with good bone while still moving lightly. The head is large in relation to the body, the muzzle is very short and broad, and the lower jaw projects beyond the upper jaw. A tongue that remains visible when the mouth is closed is not part of a correct expression.

The coat distinguishes the breed from its two close relatives. The Brussels Griffon has a rough coat with an undercoat. It should feel naturally harsh, may be slightly wavy but not curly, and forms a beard, moustache and longer eyebrows. The colour is red or reddish, with a little black hair allowed on the muzzle. A rough-coated black or black-and-tan dog is a Belgian Griffon, while the Petit Brabançon is smooth-coated and may have the colours accepted for both Griffon breeds.

The rough coat needs trimming to remove dead hair and preserve its texture. The Swedish Kennel Club gives two to four trims a year as a guide, not a timetable for every dog. The condition of the coat, the amount of dead hair and any tangles determine when attention is needed. Check the beard and face for food, dirt and damp as well.

Start early with brief, calm grooming sessions on a non-slip surface. The dog needs to accept combing, examination of the paws and face, and standing still without fear.

## Temperament & Personality

A Brussels Griffon should be alert, attentive and confident while remaining a close companion dog. The breed standard describes a balanced and devoted dog that should be neither timid nor aggressive. The Swedish Kennel Club also highlights affection, friendliness, curiosity, an ability to learn and a mind of its own.

This is a breed ideal, not a guarantee. Reactions to strangers, sounds, handling and frustration are influenced by inheritance, experience and the situation. Ask to meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look for curiosity without prolonged over-excitement and an ability to recover after a surprise.

Labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog” tell you too little about the individual. A sociable dog may seek closeness yet still rest in its own space; another may need more support with separation or unfamiliar people. Ask how the parents and previous offspring behave in everyday life.

Barking depends on the dog and its environment. An alert dog may react to doors, voices and movement beyond a window, but the breed cannot be guaranteed either quiet or noisy. Reward calm behaviour after a sound and check that the dog can settle again.

## Training & Exercise

The Brussels Griffon needs daily movement, scent work and learning, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, time to investigate smells, short training sessions, play and undisturbed rest. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, body condition and weather, and above all to the way the dog breathes and recovers.

The breed learns readily but may have definite ideas of its own. Kind, enjoyable methods that reward the desired behaviour provide a better foundation than harsh correction. Give particular attention to recall, loose-lead walking, releasing objects, settling in a chosen place and willingly taking part in coat, nail, mouth and eye checks. Keep sessions short enough to retain engagement and raise the difficulty gradually.

Distance alone does not define a worthwhile walk. A food search, a simple scent trail or a new problem can provide activity without strenuous physical exercise. The breed is sturdy for its size, but the Swedish Kennel Club advises against demands beyond the capacity of a small dog. Puppies, fit adults and older dogs need different plans.

The short muzzle makes breathing part of every exercise decision. Choose cooler times on hot days, keep the dog in healthy body condition and stop before panting becomes heavy or the usual movement changes. Marked breathing noise, slow recovery or reluctance to move should not be dismissed as normal for the breed.

## Health

The most relevant breed-specific health checks concern the patellae, eyes and respiratory function. A puppy buyer needs to distinguish between a recommendation, a centrally recorded result and a binding requirement, then verify the individual dog’s identity, examination date and result.

The breed club recommends patella and eye examinations for breeding dogs. The breed-specific breeding strategy gives patella examination before a first mating and an eye examination within a year before mating as guidelines. This does not mean that the breed has a compulsory health programme. Ask the breeder to show the results for both parents and discuss the knees and eyes of close relatives; one certificate cannot describe an entire family.

The short skull and muzzle increase the risk of both breathing problems and eye injury. In Sweden, Brussels Griffon RFG results have been centrally recorded since May 2026. RFG is a standardised assessment in which a veterinarian checks the dog’s identity, body condition and nostrils, listens before exercise and assesses breathing after a brief movement test. For the Brussels Griffon, RFG is not currently required before breeding. A result provides useful information about the dog examined but does not replace observation of everyday breathing or knowledge of relatives.

A dog with a well-functioning upper airway breathes quietly. Clear snoring or snorting while awake, laboured inhalation, slow recovery or poor heat tolerance warrants veterinary assessment. Signs may only appear during activity. A bluish tongue or gums, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness are emergency warning signs.

The large eyes and short head shape make careful eye checks important. Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, holds an eye closed, rubs it with a paw, develops redness or has eye discharge. Eye pain is treated as urgent because conditions including corneal ulcers can deteriorate quickly.

Syringomyelia occurs in the breed and can cause severe pain, but its prevalence in Sweden is unknown. Unexplained pain, repeated frantic scratching without an obvious skin cause or altered movement should be investigated by a vet. Percentages from selected or referred groups should not be treated as a reliable prevalence for the whole Swedish breed population.

Before buying, ask for:

- patella and eye results for both parents, including identity and date,
- any RFG result and an explanation of what that particular grade means,
- an opportunity to see parents or adult relatives breathing at rest and after moderate movement,
- frank information about eye injuries, breathing difficulties, signs of pain and neurological symptoms in the family.

## History & Origins

The documented origin of the Brussels Griffon lies in a small rough-coated type called the smousje, long found around Brussels. During the nineteenth century, the red King Charles Spaniel and Pug were used in the development of the present breed type.

The breed standard cautiously records that the alert little dogs were said to guard carriages and keep stables free of rodents. That account should retain its historical qualification; it is not proof that every modern Brussels Griffon has a particular guarding or hunting behaviour.

The first Brussels Griffons entered in the Belgian stud book in 1883 were named Topsy and Foxine. Around 1900 the breeds became more popular, helped in part by Queen Marie-Henriette’s interest, and exports introduced them beyond Belgium.

Their shared history explains why the Brussels Griffon, Belgian Griffon and Petit Brabançon are often discussed together. The modern standard nevertheless separates them clearly by coat and colour: the Brussels Griffon is the rough-coated red breed.

## Living with the Breed

The Brussels Griffon can live in a flat or a house if it receives daily activity, quiet rest and training suited to the individual. Small size does not solve the practicalities by itself. In a building where sound carries, the ability to settle after noises matters, and during warm weather both the home and walks need to allow the dog to stay cool.

With children, adult supervision matters more than a broad verdict about the breed. A Brussels Griffon is sturdy for its size but is still a small dog that can be injured by a fall, squeezing or rough lifting. Teach children to let the dog approach, not to disturb it while eating or sleeping, and to respect its resting place. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present.

There is no guarantee that a Brussels Griffon will enjoy the company of every dog or cat. Give a cat separate escape routes, begin with scent exchange and meetings through a gate, keep the dog under control and reward calm behaviour. Interrupt chasing and take a step back if either animal becomes tense. Two dogs need separate feeding and resting areas.

Alone-time training should be gradual, not an abrupt full working day. Begin once the puppy or adult dog feels secure at home, create very brief separations and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Progress varies between individuals. Whining, barking, pacing, panting or an inability to rest shows that training has moved too quickly and needs to be made easier.

When choosing a puppy or adult, check more than colour and an appealing expression. Confirm that the dog is registered as a Brussels Griffon, observe how adult relatives breathe and move, ask for patella, eye and any RFG results, and discuss how the family responds to handling, sounds and brief separations. A sound match rests on documented health information and observable everyday behaviour, not promises said to apply to every member of the breed.

Brussels Griffon

Deutscher Club für Griffon Bruxellois (Germany)

Brussels Griffons are small, sturdy toy dogs with humanlike, bearded faces and large dark eyes. Deeply attached and “velcro-like,” they thrive on close company, gentle, reward-based training, and moderate daily exercise. Coats may be rough or smooth in rich red, black, or black and tan.

Adajin

## Quick Facts

The Spanish Water Dog (Perro de Agua Espanol) is a medium-sized Spanish working dog with a strong capacity for learning, a watchful nature and a need for both physical and mental activity. It is best suited to an engaged owner who wants to train regularly, can devote time to careful early socialisation and is prepared to learn the breed’s unusual coat care.

- **Origin:** Spain, with the largest historic population in Andalusia.
- **Purpose:** Water dog, hunting dog and herding dog; in Sweden, it is primarily an active companion and dog-sport partner.
- **Size:** Males 44–50 cm and 18–22 kg; females 40–46 cm and 14–18 kg.
- **Character:** Faithful, hard-working, watchful, quick to learn and adaptable according to the breed standard, although sociability and fearfulness vary considerably between individuals.
- **Coat:** Always curly and woolly; it is not brushed, but managed through an even clip and careful separation of curls or cords.
- **Everyday demands:** Expect a loud, sharp bark, a strong need for tasks and a dog that must learn how to be active and how to settle.

The curly appearance can suggest an easy family companion, but the working background matters more than the hairstyle. A Spanish Water Dog given only routine walks may start inventing jobs, such as watching the window or reacting to sounds.

## Appearance & Coat

The Spanish Water Dog is rustic, athletic and slightly longer than it is tall. Males and females have different standard measurements: males should stand 44–50 cm and weigh 18–22 kg, while females should stand 40–46 cm and weigh 14–18 kg. A deviation of up to two centimetres either way may be tolerated if the dog remains well proportioned.

The coat must always be curly and woolly in texture. A short coat forms curls, while a long coat may form cords. The coat may be clipped, but the whole body should then be clipped evenly rather than styled into a decorative trim. Coat quality and the amount of undercoat vary between dogs, so two Spanish Water Dogs may need quite different care.

This coat should not be brushed or combed like a conventional long coat. Curls and cords are gently separated with the fingers. If solid matting has formed close to the skin, the coat should be clipped because it pulls and can be painful. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, paws, the area beneath a collar or harness, and the hanging ears. Bathe the dog when it is dirty and clip when length or matting makes it necessary. One fixed timetable will not suit every coat.

Accepted colours are solid white, black or chestnut, and bicolour white and black or white and chestnut. Tricolour, black and tan, and brown and tan are not accepted under the standard.

The tail may be full length or naturally short in several different lengths. In Sweden, the breed’s tail is registered as absent, bobtail, short, full length or docked. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden, even though the international standard still describes it. A short tail on a Swedish-born puppy should therefore be natural, not altered for appearance.

The breed normally releases very little loose hair, but that does not make it allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin particles and saliva as well as elsewhere, and people react differently. Anyone with an allergy should therefore meet the individual dog several times rather than choose the breed solely because of its coat.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Spanish Water Dog as faithful, obedient, cheerful, hard-working, watchful, well balanced and exceptionally quick to learn. This is a useful picture of the breeding ideal, but not a promise that every dog will be easy, fearless or sociable with everyone.

The breed is often reserved or only moderately interested in unfamiliar people. Reserve is not the same as fear: a confident dog can choose not to greet and still accept handling when necessary. Persistent flight, intense distress, slow recovery or threatening responses should not be dismissed as typical breed behaviour.

The Swedish breeding strategy describes wide variation in temperament and has an explicit aim of reducing fearfulness. Swedish BPH data also show variation in greeting, play, curiosity and responses to surprises. In a Finnish study of 5,932 dogs, the Spanish Water Dog was among the breeds showing the most fear of strangers, while less socialisation between seven and sixteen weeks was associated with greater risk. This is a group result, not a verdict on every dog, but it underlines the value of calm, early exposure to the world.

Since 2024, Sweden has had a mental index for the breed covering sociability, playfulness, environmental confidence and threat-related behaviour. It is a breeding tool and does not certify an individual dog. Consider the parents’ BPH results and index alongside meeting the dogs yourself: how do they recover after a surprise, accept handling and behave in everyday settings?

Watchfulness is often expressed through a high, fairly sharp bark. Train from an early age so that the dog can notice a sound and then let it go. Trying to remove all watchfulness is unrealistic, but the dog should be able to settle and respond to its handler.

## Training & Exercise

The Spanish Water Dog needs to use both body and brain every day, but a fixed number of hours says less than the content and the dog’s recovery. A workable week includes varied movement, scent work, problem-solving, cooperation and deliberate practice at resting.

The breed learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training in small steps suits its learning ability and reduces conflict with a sensitive or watchful dog. Prioritise loose-lead skills, recall, releasing objects, calm behaviour at doors and windows, handling of paws and ears, and a clear cue to settle in its own place.

Socialisation does not mean exposing a puppy to as much as possible in a short time. Instead, let it encounter people, sounds, surfaces, traffic, water and other dogs at a distance where it can still think, take a reward and recover. Do not force greetings. One good experience is more valuable than many overwhelming encounters.

Scent work, tracking people or game, specialist search, nose work, obedience, rally and agility are examples of activities that can suit the breed. Water work may be an excellent fit, but the breed’s name does not guarantee that every dog wants to swim. Introduce water gradually and let the dog’s confidence set the pace.

An adult needs substantial walks and tasks that demand concentration. Judge the level by body condition, fitness, sleep, ability to settle and how the dog feels the next day. A highly aroused dog does not always need more speed; it may need scent work or trained calmness. A puppy should have short explorations, free play, simple exercises and plenty of rest. Increase longer distances, jumping and heavier work gradually.

## Health

The clearest binding Swedish breed rule concerns the hips: both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. The breed club goes further and recommends that the average hip index of Swedish-born parents should exceed 100 at the time of mating.

The club also recommends BPH, a current eye examination, and DNA information for prcd-PRA and neuroaxonal dystrophy, or NAD. These recommendations should not be confused with the formal hip requirement. Ask the breeder to show the results, dates and parental combination rather than merely saying that the dogs are “health tested”.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited retinal disease that can cause blindness. The DNA test identifies the prcd variant only; it does not exclude other eye diseases and therefore does not replace a clinical eye examination. The Swedish Kennel Club can centrally record prcd-PRA results for the breed, but that recording is not in itself a separate breed-specific requirement for litter registration. A carrier can be mated to a clear dog without affected puppies being expected, whereas two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be bred from.

NAD is a serious neurological disease that, in documented cases, began during the dog’s first year and affected gait, coordination and behaviour. Research in the breed has identified a TECPR2 variant and evidence of recessive inheritance. The breed club recommends clear dogs, or carriers only when paired with a clear dog. NAD results are not recorded by the Swedish Kennel Club, so ask to see the laboratory certificate and check both parents.

The Swedish breeding strategy draws in part on a health survey with 871 complete owner responses. Such a survey provides an overview but is not the same as veterinary-diagnosed prevalence. Ask instead about documented results and illness in parents, siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a long generic list of diagnoses.

A stated lifespan range cannot predict the life of an individual dog. Sound breeding, suitable body condition, free movement, pain-free skin and prompt veterinary attention when signs appear are more useful when choosing and caring for a Spanish Water Dog.

## History & Origins

The Spanish Water Dog has been present on the Iberian Peninsula for a long time. The FCI standard describes a shared origin with the older French water-dog type, the Barbet, and the large Andalusian population whose dogs were known as “Turkish dogs”. The exact early history remains disputed, however, and the Swedish breeding strategy also records several theories.

Work differed between regions. The standard describes herding, hunting and helping fishermen, particularly in areas where the woolly coat offered protection in both wet and dry conditions. There is not enough support, however, for every detailed story about retrieving nets, carrying messages between boats or one specific route by which the dogs reached Spain.

The modern breed took shape when enthusiasts began selecting dogs and drawing up a standard from 1975. The three traditional types are known as North, Sierra and Marismeño, but today’s population is mixed and forms one breed. The FCI granted provisional recognition in 1989 and definitive recognition in 1999. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1997; accounts differ on exactly how many there were.

## Living with the Breed

The Spanish Water Dog can become a close and entertaining family companion, but it needs more than an opportunity to run off energy. Daily life must include training, recovery, coat and ear checks, and thoughtful management of watchfulness and new environments.

With children, adult supervision and an undisturbed resting place are basic rules. A lively dog can knock over or attempt to control a running child without aggressive intent, and children should not pull the curls or disturb the dog while it eats or rests. Assess the confidence and recovery of the parents rather than assuming the breed name guarantees family suitability.

The breed can live with other dogs and cats, but the relationship depends on the individual, experience and introduction. Keep meetings calm, prevent chasing and give a cat safe escape routes. Small animals need separate, secure spaces; the breed’s herding, hunting and guarding background makes it unwise to promise that every Spanish Water Dog will be reliable with every animal.

Flat living can work if the dog receives suitable activity and can settle, but its loud bark and possible sensitivity to people, sounds and movement make a poorly soundproofed or very busy home more demanding. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, tasks or socialisation.

Being left alone should be introduced in very small steps after the puppy feels secure at home. If the dog follows its owner everywhere and never practises resting behind a gate or in another room, longer absences can become unnecessarily difficult. Arrange other care if the working day regularly means many hours away.

The breed suits someone who wants an active life with a clever, quick and watchful training partner and is prepared to monitor coat and health carefully. It is less suitable if you want an automatically sociable dog, a very quiet home, minimal training or a curly coat that can be brushed in the usual way.

Spanish Water Dog (Perro de Agua Espanol)

Verein für Deutsche Wachtelhunde e.V. (Germany)

The Spanish Water Dog is a medium, curly‑coated working breed from Spain, used for herding and water tasks. Loyal and often bonded to one person, it is energetic, intelligent, reserved with strangers, and a natural watchdog, needing substantial exercise, training, and specific coat care.

Vi på Asombroso föder upp Perro de Agua Espanol i Örebro. Vårt kennelnamn deltog i en särskild uppfödarklass 2022 och representerade åter rasen 2023, med Örebro som uppfödarort vid båda tillfällena. De två nedslagen visar uppfödningen i skilda utställningssammanhang.

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