## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Kasino's

Hallands Kennelklubbs katalog 2024 samlar flera Gods From Ash-poster från Vadstena inom Tysk spets – mittelspitz. En prefixbärande tik född 2020 står både som egen katalogpost och som mor till tre andra hundar med kennelnamnet: en född 2022 och två födda samma dag 2023. Kenneln finns dessutom i uppfödarklass med sju katalognummer.

Gods From Ash

Hamilton Hound

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Norwegian Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Hamilton Hound is a Swedish tricolour scent hound, medium‑large, athletic and robust. Calm, friendly and affectionate at home, it has strong hunting drive, a loud voice and needs substantial daily exercise, training and mental stimulation. Coat care is simple.

På både registrerings- och föräldranivå syns Spjutvikens, Hamiltonstövare i Luleå, i två officiella källor. Västra Norrlands Stövarklubbs resultat 2023 redovisar en registrering född 2021 där såväl fadern från 2018 som modern från 2017 bär prefixet. SKK Avelsdata dokumenterar separat en hund född 2015 vars mor också bär prefixet, och bekräftar Luleå som kennelort.

Spjutvikens

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

La Nieva’s

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Small But Big

## Quick Facts

The American Cocker Spaniel is a compact American bird dog and companion with considerable working drive behind its elegant appearance. It is a distinct breed, not a smaller version of the English Cocker Spaniel. The breeds share an origin but have different standards and breeding histories. Even so, you cannot assume that every American Cocker is calmer or has less hunting drive than every English Cocker.

- **Origin:** United States.
- **Classification:** FCI number 167 in Group 8, Retrievers, Flushing Dogs and Water Dogs.
- **Original function:** flushing and retrieving bird dog; the breed standard also lists companion dog.
- **Ideal height at the withers:** about 38 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight.
- **Temperament ideal:** even, confident and cheerful, without shyness.
- **Activity:** needs substantial daily exercise and tasks that engage its nose and cooperation with the handler.
- **Coat care:** demanding, especially when the coat is kept long. A shorter sport trim makes daily care easier but does not remove the need to check the ears, feet and skin.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine companionship with training and accepts regular coat and ear care. It can suit a first-time owner who seeks help when needed, but it is not automatically an easy choice simply because it is relatively small.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Cocker Spaniel should be a strong, balanced and mobile dog in a compact format. The body is slightly longer than tall but should look neither long nor low. The clearly defined head should be in proportion to the body. The eyes should be dark and must not protrude; the expression should be alert and gentle. Movement should be free and efficient, without the abundant coat obscuring the dog's outline.

The standard divides the colours into black, solid colours other than black, and parti-colours. The body coat is medium in length with a protective undercoat. The ears, chest, abdomen and legs carry more feathering. Correct coat is silky and straight or slightly wavy. Excessive coat, a cottony texture or curl is not the goal: the American Cocker Spaniel should still function as a sporting dog.

How often the coat needs combing and clipping depends on its amount, length and texture, as well as the dog's activity and the weather. Part the coat down to the skin and check that a comb passes through without resistance. Tangles readily form around the ears, armpits, groin and feet and under a harness or collar. After walks in woodland, rain or swimming, the coat needs an extra check and thorough drying.

A full show coat requires considerably more work than a shorter sport trim. Ask the breeder to demonstrate the care routine before the puppy comes home. Gradually accustom the puppy to a comb, dryer, clippers, foot handling and standing still for short periods. Grooming then becomes an everyday skill rather than a struggle after the coat has already matted.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an even, bold and cheerful dog that enjoys working with its person. Many American Cockers seek contact, are playful and learn quickly, but the standard describes a breeding goal—it does not promise the temperament of an individual dog. Genetics, early experiences, health, upbringing and training all have an influence.

The Swedish BPH data are too limited to provide a reliable picture of temperament across the breed: the current breeding strategy reports only 25 assessed dogs in 2015–2023. It is therefore more useful to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other close relatives. Watch how the dogs seek contact, accept handling, respond to something unexpected and settle again. Ask how relatives cope with the kind of daily life you are planning.

Hunting traits vary but can remain. The breed is still described as a flushing and retrieving bird dog, although hunting use is uncommon in Sweden. An American Cocker may therefore suddenly become very interested in a scent or bird. Recall and outdoor engagement need to be trained rather than assumed.

## Training & Exercise

The American Cocker Spaniel needs daily activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, environment and the day's other demands determine what is appropriate. A good routine combines walks and free movement in safe places with scent work, retrieving, cooperation and the ability to settle afterwards.

The breed's background offers several natural training routes. Search exercises, tracking human scent, blood tracking, controlled retrieving and tasks in which the dog works close to the handler engage both its nose and its willingness to cooperate. Rally obedience, obedience, agility and freestyle may also suit the individual. Start simply and increase difficulty, duration and physical load only when the dog is recovering well.

Prioritise recall, engagement, calm behaviour around encounters and the ability to leave a scent trail from an early age. Also train everyday skills: examination around the eyes and ears, foot handling, standing on a grooming table and resting despite movement nearby. Short, clear sessions and rewards the dog values help maintain motivation.

More activity is not always the answer to restlessness. A dog that struggles to settle may need clearer recovery time, better-adjusted training or a health check. For a puppy, new environments, body awareness and short tasks should take priority over long, repetitive exercise sessions.

## Health

The ears are the most important health area to plan for, and eye examination is the clear Swedish breeding requirement. The Swedish breeding strategy identifies ear inflammation as the breed's most common health problem. Drop ears, abundant ear hair and a rich coat make it particularly important to be able to see the skin, keep the hair around the ear opening manageable and spot problems early.

Odour, redness, swelling, discharge, tenderness or head shaking are reasons to contact a veterinarian. Recurrent problems should be investigated because there may be an underlying cause. Healthy ears do not, however, need cleaning according to a frequent standard schedule. Nor does the breeding strategy support the claim that American Cockers are generally born with narrow ear canals.

Hereditary eye conditions including cataracts and retinal folds occur, and PRA has been identified in isolated cases. For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official eye-examination result. The certificate may be no more than one year old, and the result must be valid before mating. The rule requires a current result; it does not mean that every diagnosis must be marked clear. Check the parents' results and dates in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata database, and ask the breeder to explain how any findings were assessed for the proposed mating.

A DNA test for prcd-PRA is neither a guarantee against all PRA nor a replacement for an eye examination. In 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club's breeding committee rejected an application for a central level 1 prcd-PRA health programme for the American Cocker Spaniel because it had not been established that confirmed PRA cases in the breed were caused by that particular mutation. Do not confuse the breed's Swedish requirements with testing packages for the English Cocker Spaniel: FN, hip dysplasia screening and patella examination are not formal registration requirements for the American Cocker Spaniel under the current rules.

The Swedish Kennel Club's special judging instructions highlight head shape, eyes and excessive coat. When choosing a puppy, sound proportions, eyes that neither protrude nor water constantly, a correct bite, free movement and a coat that does not hinder the dog matter more than an extreme look. Healthy parents reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The American and English Cocker Spaniels share roots, but the American type developed in the United States and became a distinct breed. Obo II, born in 1882, is commonly identified as an important early dog in its American history. Differences in type became clearer during the first half of the 1900s.

In 1945, the American Kennel Club divided the Cocker Spaniel into American and English Cocker Spaniels. The first American Cockers arrived in Sweden in the 1950s. The FCI lists the United States as the country of origin and places the breed among retrievers, flushing dogs and water dogs. Today's breed is often oriented towards companionship and showing, but the bird-dog function in the standard explains why scent work, searching and retrieving remain relevant activities.

## Living with the Breed

The American Cocker Spaniel can live well in a house or flat when activity, access outdoors, coat care and recovery are properly arranged. In a building where sound carries, training for calm behaviour around noises and a plan for the dog's days are needed; the breed name does not tell you whether an individual will bark a lot or a little.

The breed can live happily with children, dogs and other animals, but the breed alone provides no guarantee. A dog and small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Introductions to other animals should be calm and controlled. Consider the individual's previous experience, resource guarding, play style and interest in chasing, not just a general breed description.

Alone time is taught gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Some individuals learn quickly; others need a slower plan. The breed should therefore be described neither as unable to stay alone nor as trouble-free without training.

The following checks are particularly useful before buying a puppy:

- View both parents' official eye results and dates in Avelsdata; check that each result was no more than one year old at mating.
- Ask about recurrent ear, eye and skin problems in the parents and close relatives, not only whether the dogs appear healthy on that particular day.
- Meet the puppy's mother and observe contact, handling, reactions to sound and recovery. Ask about other close relatives if the father is not present.
- Look for free movement, sound head proportions, eyes that do not protrude, water or squint, and a quantity of coat that can be maintained without hindering the dog.
- Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat and ear care, and judge the workload against the coat length you actually intend to keep.
- Describe the daily life and activities you are planning. A breeder who knows their lines should be able to discuss variation rather than promise that every puppy will be the same.

Rules and recommendations can change. Always check the current versions with the Swedish Kennel Club and breed club when buying rather than relying on an old checklist.

American Cocker Spaniel

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

American Cocker Spaniel: a small, sturdy gundog with a silky coat and large, expressive eyes. Cheerful, affectionate, and people‑oriented, it suits active families. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, gentle positive training, and regular, thorough grooming and ear care.

En mor med samma kennelprefix ger Redleg’s, Amerikansk cocker spaniel i Stora Sundby, ett dokumenterat generationsled. En hund född 31 juli 2021 återges med samma registreringsnummer, föräldrapar och uppfödarort i Skaraborgs Kennelklubbs katalog 2022 och i två officiella SKK-kataloger från 2025. Samma stamtavla kan därmed följas vid tre separata utställningstillfällen.

Redleg’s

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Larsgårdens kennel inriktar sig på schäferuppfödning efter sunda friska föräldrar. Vi håller till strax utanför Halmstad.

Perstorp Larsgården

Icelandic Sheepdog

The Icelandic Sheepdog International Cooperation

The Icelandic Sheepdog Association of America

The Icelandic Sheepdog is Iceland’s only native spitz‑type herder, medium‑small, sturdy, and agile with a curled tail and thick double coat in varied colors. Cheerful, social, and vocal, it thrives on daily exercise, close family involvement, gentle training, and regular grooming.

Minu Engla i Broby har Isländsk Fårhund som rasinriktning. Svenska Isländsk Fårhund Klubbens medlemstidning 2023 har en prefixhund på omslaget, medan klubbens galleri visar en annan i två bildsammanhang. Två kennelklubbskataloger från 2022 redovisar dessutom varsin hund ur samma kull, båda födda samma dag med samma föräldrar och Broby som uppfödarort.

Minu Engla

## Quick Facts

The Alaskan Malamute is a large, powerful sledge dog for people who enjoy an active outdoor life and can provide work, training and close social contact. The breed was developed to pull heavy loads over distance, not to win short speed races. An Alaskan Malamute is strong, independent and accustomed to using its own judgement.

- The FCI places the breed in Group 5 among the Nordic sledge dogs, with the United States as its country of origin.
- The breed standard’s preferred freighting size is 63.5 cm and 38 kg for males, and 58.5 cm and 34 kg for females. There is a natural range of sizes, and function and proportions matter more than exact measurements.
- The Alaskan Malamute has a coarse outer coat and a dense, woolly undercoat that protect it in a harsh climate and shed heavily during seasonal coat changes.
- The breed ideal is friendly, affectionate and sociable with people. Its strength, prey drive and independence nevertheless call for a knowledgeable owner.
- A good routine includes daily physical and mental activity, together with regular tasks that use the dog’s stamina.

This is rarely the right choice if you mainly want a biddable dog for short walks. The breed may suit you if outdoor life is already part of your routine and you enjoy long-term training with a dog that does not follow commands automatically.

## Appearance & Coat

The Alaskan Malamute should look like the working dog it is: powerful and muscular, yet mobile, balanced and enduring. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the chest is deep and the feet are large and strong. Movement should be steady and efficient, never cumbersome or stilted.

The head is broad and the expression soft. The eyes should be brown and almond-shaped; blue eyes are a disqualifying fault under the breed standard. The well-furred tail is carried over the back like a loose, waving plume when the dog is not working. It should not be tightly curled against the back.

The coat consists of coarse guard hairs and a dense, oily, woolly undercoat that the standard describes as roughly 2.5–5 cm deep. It is short to medium along the sides and longer around the neck and shoulders, along the back, over the hindquarters and on the tail. A long, soft coat is not part of the breed ideal. Usual colours range from light grey to black and from sable to red. White predominates on the underside, parts of the legs and the facial markings; all-white is the only permitted solid colour.

Everyday coat care is mainly about running your hands through the coat and brushing out loose undercoat before it packs together. More frequent attention is needed during the major seasonal sheds. Check the skin, feet, nails and any areas where moisture or debris may remain at the same time. The breed standard says the coat should be shown naturally and not trimmed, apart from a neat outline around the feet. Veterinary advice should take priority when there is a medical need.

The heavy coat makes planning for warm weather important. Schedule demanding activity for cooler times, provide water, shade and good ventilation, and watch how the dog recovers. Persistent panting, heavy drooling, red or dry gums, anxiety, confusion, weakness or collapse may indicate heatstroke and require prompt veterinary attention.

## Temperament & Personality

The Alaskan Malamute should be affectionate and friendly, but combines its sociable nature with marked independence. It was not bred to be a one-person dog and often wants to take part in family activities. Friendliness in the standard is a breeding ideal, however, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave in every situation.

As a working polar dog, the Alaskan Malamute has had to cooperate without constant detailed direction. It may understand a task quickly and still choose something else if the reward, habit or environment is more compelling. Training works best when rules are clear, rewards are worthwhile and the same behaviour pays off consistently.

The breed’s natural prey drive affects both off-lead freedom and life with other animals. Some individuals can live comfortably with a cat or smaller dog after a careful introduction, while others need permanent separation from small pets. Assess actual history and behaviour instead of relying on breed labels or a puppy’s early calmness. The breed club’s breeding strategy states that the breed should be socially functional with other dogs and that aggressive behaviour is undesirable, but individuals and combinations differ.

## Training & Exercise

An Alaskan Malamute needs far more than access to a garden: it needs daily movement, mental activity and regular work suited to a sledge dog bred for endurance. The right amount depends on age, fitness, weather, health and the activity itself. Judge the dog’s enthusiasm, movement and recovery instead of chasing a fixed number of minutes.

Pulling, carrying a pack, longer hikes, running and tracking can give the breed purposeful work. A properly fitted harness, safe equipment and guidance from someone experienced with working sledge dogs become important as the load increases. A puppy first needs environmental exposure, play, everyday skills and gradual muscle development. Dogs may enter official Swedish polar-dog working tests only from 24 months of age. That is an eligibility rule, not proof that every two-year-old is ready for heavy work.

Practise everyday skills in short, clear sessions:

- Teach the difference between pulling work and an ordinary walk by using different equipment, cues and starting routines.
- Reward the dog when the lead hangs loose, and practise before it develops its full strength.
- Build recall gradually in a secure enclosure or on a long line, but do not plan daily life around the dog having to be off lead where wildlife is present.
- Train pauses and recovery as systematically as speed and strength.
- Use scent work, problem-solving and new environments to complement physical exercise.

If the dog’s movement deteriorates, it fails to recover normally or becomes reluctant to work, reduce the load and find the cause. Being a hardy breed does not mean it should work through pain or heat stress.

## Health

For the Alaskan Malamute, hips, elbows, eyes and polyneuropathy are the most important documented areas to check before buying a puppy. The key is to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration requirement from the breed club’s more extensive breeding recommendations.

For a Swedish litter to be registered, both parents must have an official known hip dysplasia status before mating. A known result does not automatically mean clear hips. The breed club recommends HD grade A or B and elbow dysplasia grade 0 in both parents. It also recommends that both parents have an eye examination clear of hereditary eye disease no more than 24 months before mating.

Figures in the Swedish breeding strategy show why the wider family picture matters. Among dogs hip-scored in 2020–2023, 78 per cent had grade A or B and 22 per cent grade C or D. For elbows, 95–97 per cent of the dogs examined received grade 0. Of 1,240 dogs eye-examined in 1990–2023, 12 per cent had cataracts and 82 per cent were completely clear of recorded hereditary eye disease. These figures cover examined dogs during the stated periods and do not describe the risk for a particular puppy. Ask for results from parents, siblings, previous litters and other close relatives, not just two certificates.

Alaskan Malamute polyneuropathy, AMPN, is an inherited neurological disease. Early signs may include a hoarse bark or noisy breathing and poor coordination in the hind legs; onset is normally between four and 14 months of age. The known NDRG1 variant is inherited in an autosomal recessive pattern:

- A clear dog does not carry the tested variant.
- A carrier has one copy, will not become ill from this particular variant but can pass it on.
- A genetically affected dog has two copies and must not be bred from; two carriers must not be mated together.

The breed club recommends that at least one parent has been DNA tested clear or is documented as clear through its parents. The test covers only the NDRG1 variant and does not rule out other neurological problems. Check both the test results and the wider health history.

## History & Origins

The modern Alaskan Malamute is an American reconstruction of the powerful freighting and sledge-dog type found in north-western Alaska. Malamute-type dogs kept by Inuit communities became the model for the breed, but it is more accurate to describe a reconstructed breed than an entirely unchanged line from ancient times.

The gold rush at the end of the nineteenth century created heavy demand for sledge dogs, and many types were crossed for transport and racing. In the 1920s, an American project began to collect dogs that matched the image of the hardy, heavy freighting dog. According to the Swedish breeding strategy, the so-called Kotzebue line was founded with six or seven individuals. The American Kennel Club recognised the Alaskan Malamute as a breed in 1935.

The breed’s function remains central to the standard and to Nordic breeding. The first documented import to Sweden arrived in 1976, and working tests are still used to assess strength, endurance and willingness to work. The breed should not be judged solely by a wolf-like appearance or the amount of coat.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with an Alaskan Malamute requires planning for activity, strength, prey drive, warm weather and social contact. A house with a garden does not meet those needs by itself, and living in a flat is not automatically impossible. Assess access to exercise and safe training, a cool resting place, manageable stairs, how noise may affect neighbours and a plan for times when the dog cannot come along.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a secure, trained adult may manage a few hours; the individual dog’s response should determine how quickly the time increases. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to offer a toilet break at least every six hours during the day does not mean a dog is content to be left alone for that long. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day does not fit the dog’s needs.

Two simple rules apply around children: an adult must always be present with young children, and the dog must have a protected resting place. An adult also needs to take responsibility for walks and physically demanding activities with such a strong dog. Teach children to leave the dog alone while it eats, sleeps or moves away.

If the home includes a cat, small pets or several dogs, you must be able to separate them physically. Ask the breeder about the parents’ prey drive, behaviour around resources and everyday life with other dogs, and ask how the particular puppy has responded in different situations. Early socialisation helps, but it does not remove prey drive or guarantee future compatibility.

Check before buying:

- Swedish Kennel Club registration and the parents’ official hip results.
- Hip, elbow, eye and AMPN results in line with breed-club recommendations, including dates and family history.
- How the parents work, recover and behave with people and dogs in everyday life.
- Whether at least one parent has passed an approved pulling test and how the breeder preserves the breed’s working ability.
- What support the breeder provides with training for pulling work, health, feeding and rehoming.

The breed can suit a first-time owner, but there is little room for error once an independent dog is fully grown and powerful. Practical help from the breeder, breed club and an experienced trainer should be in place before problems arise. The best match is a home that values the breed’s work as much as its appearance.

Alaskan Malamute

The Alaskan Malamute Club of the United Kingdom

The Alaskan Malamute is a large, powerful Arctic sled dog bred by the Mahlemut Inuit to pull heavy loads. It has a dense double coat that sheds heavily, a friendly, social nature, strong prey and working drive, high exercise needs, and can be independent and challenging to train.

Far, dotter och hennes avkomma går att följa för Spotty Dot's i Örkelljunga inom Alaskan malamute. Norra Älvsborgs Kennelklubbs katalog 2022 visar att en prefixhund född 2021 har en Spotty Dot's-hund från 2018 som far. I SKK:s finalresultat 2025 står samma 2021-hund som mor till en prefixhund född 2024. Kennelprefixet löper därmed i samma släktlinje från 2018 till 2024.

Spotty Dot's

## Quick Facts

The Gordon Setter is a British pointing dog developed to search for gamebirds across large areas and work with the hunter at a distance. It is not simply an active companion with a sporting background: hunting drive, wide-ranging search and independent work are central to the breed's function.

- The breed standard gives 66 cm and 29.5 kg for males, and 62 cm and 25.5 kg for females.
- The coat should be moderately long and as flat as possible. Its colour is glossy coal black with chestnut-red tan markings.
- The Gordon Setter should be intelligent, dignified, bold, outgoing and kind, with an even temperament.
- The breed needs substantial daily exercise, scent work, training and opportunities to use its search instincts. One fixed number of hours does not describe every individual.
- A strong interest in hunting should be expected. The breeder's priorities and the working style of adult relatives matter when choosing a puppy.
- In Swedish breeding, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result. Results for rcd4-PRA, CCA and CL can also be recorded centrally.

The breed is best suited to an owner who wants to spend a large part of their free time in woodland, fields or open upland country and sees training as a regular part of everyday life. It is less suitable if the aim is a dog content with short walks around the block or one expected to ignore game scent and the urge to search.

## Appearance & Coat

The Gordon Setter should be stylish, symmetrical and built for galloping. It is strong without being cumbersome, with a deep chest, strong limbs and free, flowing movement. The standard uses fixed reference measurements: 66 cm and 29.5 kg for males, and 62 cm and 25.5 kg for females. These are ideal measurements, not a promise that every adult will match them exactly. Body condition, proportions and movement matter more than one number.

The coat is short and fine on the head, fronts of the legs and tips of the ears. On the body, it should be moderately long, flat and as free as possible from curl or wave. Long, silky feathering is found on the ears, legs, belly and tail. A functional coat should offer protection in cover without becoming excessively heavy or difficult to maintain.

The base colour is a deep, glossy coal black without rusty tones, with clearly defined chestnut-red tan markings. These appear above the eyes, on the muzzle, throat, chest and legs, and beneath the tail. A very small white spot on the chest is permitted; other colours are outside the standard.

Coat care is best guided by the dog's routine. Brush through the feathering and the areas behind the ears, in the armpits and around the thighs before small tangles become mats. After work in woodland or long grass, check for seeds, burrs, ticks, small wounds and cracks in the pads. Bathe when the dog is dirty and check the drop ears after swimming or wet weather. Light tidying may produce a neat outline, but the coat should not be shaped in a way that conceals its natural function.

## Temperament & Personality

The standard describes the Gordon Setter as intelligent, capable and dignified, with courage, an outgoing nature and a kind, even temperament. This is the breed ideal, not a promise that every individual will be identical. Breeding priorities, family lines, early experience and the home environment influence confidence, intensity, sociability and the ability to settle.

Its work requires the dog to take initiative while cooperating at considerable distance. At home, the same traits may appear as quick problem-solving, great stamina and a tendency to investigate before looking to its owner. Independence is not the same as low intelligence or deliberate defiance. Training needs to give the dog a clear task and make cooperation worthwhile.

Gordon Setters often mature later than new owners expect. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that a male may not be fully grown until three to four years of age. This is a guide to physical maturity, not an excuse to postpone everyday boundaries for several years. A large adolescent dog needs to learn calm greetings, rest, lead manners and comfortable handling from an early age.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and, if possible, other adult relatives. Ask how they recover after surprises, respond to unfamiliar people, cope with inactivity and work in the field or in trials. Ask the breeder to explain their breeding aims in practical terms. Labels such as “working line” or “show line” reveal less than the parents' actual achievements, working style, health and everyday behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

A Gordon Setter needs a great deal of physical and mental activity, but one fixed daily time target is too blunt. A good day includes movement over varied ground, opportunities to search and use scent, cooperative exercises, practical skills training and recovery. Needs vary with age, fitness, the hunting season, health and the difficulty of the activity.

As a pointing dog, it should quarter the ground, point when it scents game, wait for the handler, flush the bird on cue, remain steady to shot and retrieve on command. Even a non-hunting owner needs to understand this sequence. Ordinary walks do not automatically provide the same outlet as controlled search, tracking, retrieving or other work in which the dog can act independently within clear boundaries.

Recall must be developed progressively around genuine distractions. Begin close by, reward voluntary check-ins and use a long line or securely enclosed ground when hunting drive may take over. Avoid repeatedly calling when the dog is already completely absorbed by game scent. Make the exercise easier, increase the distance from the distraction and build many successful repetitions. No breed description or training method can promise that an individual Gordon Setter will be safe off lead everywhere.

Reward-based training suits a dog that is sensitive to the handler's actions yet accustomed to making its own decisions. Prioritise recall, a stop or steadiness cue, loose-lead walking, settling, calm greetings and safe retrieving. Training with an experienced pointing-dog instructor is valuable even if you have not yet decided whether to enter working trials.

Puppies should be allowed to play, explore and move freely without long forced runs or repeated high jumps. Increase distance, speed and difficulty as strength and recovery improve. Exercise is not successful merely because the dog is tired; it should also eat normally, move cleanly and be able to settle afterwards.

## Health

The most useful health information before purchase is official hip status, correctly interpreted DNA results, known disease history in close relatives and recognition of the emergency signs of gastric dilatation-volvulus. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful if it does not show which result belongs to which dog.

The Gordon Setter is covered by a Swedish health programme for hip dysplasia. Under the 2026 registration rules, both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their puppies to be registered. The rules prohibit breeding from a dog graded E; a dog graded D may only be mated to a hip-clear dog, A or B, and a dog with clinical signs of hip dysplasia should not be bred from. Hip dysplasia is influenced by several genes, so the parents' grades do not describe the entire risk. Results from siblings and other close relatives add useful information.

The Swedish Kennel Club centrally records DNA results for rcd4-PRA, cerebellar cortical abiotrophy (CCA) and ceroid lipofuscinosis (CL) in Gordon Setters. All three are recessively inherited. A carrier has one copy of the disease variant and will not become ill from that specific tested condition, but can pass it on. A carrier should therefore be mated to a genetically or hereditarily clear dog, never another carrier. Check the dog's identity, the exact test name and whether the result comes from the dog's own DNA test or from ancestry.

The rcd4-PRA test identifies risk from that specific genetic variant. It does not replace a clinical eye examination or exclude other forms of PRA. CCA affects the cerebellum and can cause progressive unsteadiness in young dogs. CL is a different neurological disorder that may cause changes in behaviour, an unsteady gait, impaired vision or seizures. A clear result for one condition says nothing about the other two. Current Swedish Gordon Setter Club puppy advertisements require at least one parent to be DNA-tested or hereditarily clear for rcd4-PRA and CCA; this is a club advertising condition, not the same as the binding hip requirement in the registration rules.

The breed is also documented as predisposed to symmetrical claw loss, often called SLO. If several claws fall off, split or grow back misshapen, the dog needs veterinary assessment. Ask about recurring claw-capsule problems in parents and close relatives without treating the absence of a DNA test as proof of health.

The Gordon Setter is classed among breeds at increased risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV. The condition can progress rapidly and requires emergency treatment. If the dog tries to vomit without bringing anything up, becomes markedly restless, has a swollen or painful abdomen, salivates heavily, has pale gums, becomes weak or collapses, contact a vet immediately. Ask about GDV in parents and siblings. Feeding and exercise routines may reduce some risk factors, but cannot guarantee that the condition will never occur.

A 2024 British study estimated a median life expectancy of 12.4 years in a group of 393 Gordon Setters. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Gordon Setter takes its name from Gordon Castle in Scotland. Black setters with tan markings are documented there from the early years of the nineteenth century, and the dogs were valued for hunting drive, trainability and a friendly disposition. The aim was an efficient bird dog with a strong build that could work for long periods over demanding ground.

Setters previously appeared in many colours and types. When they began to be separated into breeds during the nineteenth century, the black variety with rust-red markings was called the Black and Tan Setter. The British Kennel Club recognised it under that name in 1873. In 1924, the breed name was changed to Gordon Setter, reflecting its connection with the fourth Duke of Gordon and the castle's well-known dogs.

The core of the breed remains the work of a pointing dog. It searches the ground, indicates game by standing still and then cooperates with the hunter during the flush and retrieve. The FCI places it in group 7 and includes a working trial in the breed's international classification.

Older accounts mention possible crosses with Collies, Bloodhounds and other types of dog. The evidence is uncertain and those theories are not needed to explain the documented development. The established points are the connection with British setters, Gordon Castle, the Black and Tan Setter name and the change of name in 1924.

Gordon Setters arrived early in the Nordic countries, and the Swedish breed club was founded in 1907. The modern Swedish population has been shaped largely by hunting use and Nordic cooperation. This history has a practical consequence for a prospective owner: the breed's appearance cannot be separated from the function for which it is still bred.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Gordon Setter means arranging everyday life around a large, enduring hunting dog. A house and garden do not replace activity, and a flat does not automatically rule the breed out if the dog receives appropriate work, outdoor time and rest. The key question is whether the owner can provide safe opportunities to search, varied training and a sustainable routine even on dark, wet working days.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult present. A Gordon Setter's size, tail and enthusiasm can knock a child over without any aggression. Children should not disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a protected place of its own. Assess the individual dog's behaviour rather than relying on a general claim that the breed is good with children.

Living with other dogs can work well, but the introduction and the individuals' behaviour matter more than the breed name. Cats and small animals require extra planning because fast movement may trigger hunting interest. Begin at a distance, with the dog on lead, and keep meetings short and controlled. A cat should have high, dog-free places and separate resources. A dog that lives peacefully with the household cat may still chase an unfamiliar cat outdoors.

Alone time should be taught gradually once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods behind a door or outside the home, and extend them only when the dog can rest. A camera can reveal pacing, vocalising or destructive behaviour that is not obvious when you return. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's guidance that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a measure of how long an individual dog is comfortable alone.

Before buying, check:

- the breeder's working and conformation aims, and what they mean in practice,
- the parents' working-trial record, working style, temperament and ability to settle,
- official hip results and results from close relatives,
- the exact rcd4-PRA, CCA and CL results and how any carrier has been mated,
- any history of claw loss and GDV in the family,
- how the puppies are prepared for recall, settling, handling, gunshot and varied environments.

The central question is not whether a Gordon Setter can be a family dog, but whether the family wants to live with and develop a pointing dog for many years.

Gordon Setter

Gordon Setter Club of the United Kingdom

Deutscher Setter Club e.V. (Germany)

Svenska Gordonsetterklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Gordonsetter Klub (Norway)

The Gordon Setter is a substantial Scottish gundog with a black-and-tan silky coat, bred for stamina in harsh terrain. Intelligent, sensitive, and loyal, it bonds closely with family, needs plenty of daily exercise, kind consistent training, regular grooming, and careful health screening.

Samma svenskregistrerade Gordonsetter binder samman Cavasettes i Karlstad med både svenska och danska källor. Svenska Gordonsetterklubben och Mellansvenska Fågelhundsklubben listar kenneln som uppfödare. Registreringsnumret återfinns också i SKK:s resultat från februari 2025 och i Dansk Kennel Klubs katalog från mars 2026, där Cavasettes-prefixet och Karlstad återkommer.

Cavasettes

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Fjorton kalenderår skiljer två officiella källor för Dog Rose Gold, Irish softcoated wheaten terrier i Kåge. Svenska Wheaten Terrier Klubbens årsbok 2009 tar upp kenneln i sin SKK-baserade uppfödarlista. SKK Hunddata dokumenterar en svenskregistrerad prefixhund född 2023 vars mor också bär Dog Rose Gold-namnet.

Dog Rose Gold

Japanese Chin

The Japanese Chin is a small, fine‑boned toy companion with a silky, low‑maintenance coat and expressive, upturned face. Catlike and graceful, it bonds deeply to one person, is calm and playful indoors, needs moderate exercise, and prefers gentle handling and a peaceful home.

Diva`s svartvita

## Quick Facts

The Italian Greyhound is the smallest breed in the sighthound group, but it is built like a sighthound in miniature. The breed standard sets a height of 32–38 centimetres for both sexes and says that the dog may weigh no more than 5 kilograms. There is no official minimum or narrow “ideal weight”; assess body condition, muscle and overall balance instead.

- Italy is the country of origin. The breed is FCI number 200 and belongs to group 10, section 3.
- The breed standard describes the temperament as lively, affectionate and docile. This is the ideal set by the standard, not a guarantee of how every dog will respond to strangers, being left alone or new surroundings.
- The short, fine coat offers limited protection from the weather. Clothing may be needed when it is cold, wet or windy, but this depends on the dog, the conditions and its activity level.
- Seeing something move can quickly trigger a chase response. Recall is important training, but a lead or securely enclosed area remains the safe choice near traffic, wildlife and small animals.
- A young dog needs protection from bad landings as well as free, varied movement that develops muscle, balance and bone.

The breed suits someone who wants to share life with a small, fast and alert dog and can combine everyday exercise with sensible safety measures. Small size does not mean that the dog has no need for exercise.

## Appearance & Coat

The Italian Greyhound should be square or nearly square: the body is the same length as, or slightly shorter than, the height at the withers. Fine bone, a deep chest, a tucked-up underline and long legs create the sighthound outline. “Fine-boned” does not mean weak, poorly muscled or underweight.

The standard calls for a springy, harmonious trot that covers ground. An exaggerated high, short step resembling hackney action is a fault, even if it may look elegant. At the gallop, the breed should show the speed and spring of a sighthound.

The coat should be short, silky and fine all over, without feathering. Under the FCI standard, only solid black, grey or isabella in different shades is accepted. White is tolerated only on the chest and feet. Red, brindle and other markings are therefore not standard colours in Sweden, although other registries or everyday colour names can cause confusion.

Coat care is simple and done as needed. Wipe away dirt, remove loose hair with a soft brush or grooming mitt, and bathe the dog when it is dirty. Check the skin, nails, pads, ears and mouth at the same time.

The fine coat provides little insulation against wind and rain. A well-fitting coat can make a walk more comfortable in poor weather, but no single temperature threshold is useful for every dog. Watch for shivering, a tense posture, reluctance to move or attempts to seek shelter. Remove or adjust clothing if the dog becomes warm as the pace increases.

## Temperament & Personality

The Italian Greyhound should be lively, affectionate and docile, and many seek close contact. This does not mean that every dog is quiet, wants to sit on a lap or can be left alone without training. Inheritance, experience and daily surroundings shape the individual.

The breed can switch quickly between rest and intense play. A dog that can move, sniff, learn and rest without disturbance is more likely to settle indoors.

The Swedish BPH and MH behaviour-assessment sample is too small to support firm conclusions about the entire breed. Meet the parents and adult relatives instead. Observe how they recover after surprises, greet unfamiliar people and relax when nothing is happening.

With children, the way they interact matters more than age alone. An adult should supervise play, the dog must be able to move away, and children should not carry it or disturb it while it sleeps or eats. The dog can be injured if dropped, run into or involved in rough play with a much larger dog. Match play styles and stop before the pace becomes uncontrolled.

Living with cats can work after a calm, controlled introduction, but previous experience is no guarantee outdoors. Movement may arouse the urge to chase. Birds, rabbits and small rodents should be kept physically separate. Adapt gates, leads and separate rooms to the dog's actual behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

The Italian Greyhound needs to move every day, have opportunities to run safely and train in short, enjoyable sessions. No reliable rule in minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery determine the balance between walks, play and free movement.

The breed club's breeding strategy highlights long walks, varied training and safe free running. In an enclosed area, the dog can change pace without the risks from traffic and wildlife found in open spaces. Check fencing, gates and the ground. Train recall and the habit of checking in voluntarily, but do not expect them to remove the chase response.

A puppy needs a balance between physical challenge and protection. The breed club's strategy recommends early movement over varied surfaces and safe free activity to build muscle and bone. Let the puppy move at its own pace on surfaces with good grip. Prevent falls from high furniture, poor landings on slippery floors and collisions with larger dogs. Introduce stairs, jumping and dog sports gradually as body control develops.

Use reward-based training in short sessions. Walking well on the lead, calm handling of feet and mouth, waiting at doors and having a safe resting place are particularly valuable everyday skills.

In cold or wet weather, clothing and several shorter outings may work better than a walk during which the dog becomes stiff with cold. Choose sheltered routes and add indoor scent work. If the dog limps, avoids putting weight on a leg or suddenly refuses to move, stop the activity and have it assessed by a vet.

## Health

The Italian Greyhound is not covered by a breed-specific health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026. This does not make health examinations unimportant. The current Swedish breeding strategy recommends an eye examination for prospective parents before mating. It also encourages an official patella examination and having a vet listen to the heart before breeding. Regular dental care is another priority.

Owner surveys, insurance statistics and veterinary records collect information in different ways, and several Swedish datasets are small. They cannot provide a certain risk for an individual dog. Eyes, teeth, kneecaps and fractures of the radius and ulna are still relevant questions because they recur in the available material.

It is important to distinguish between two kinds of dental problem. Regular oral care and veterinary checks help prevent ordinary periodontal disease. Familial enamel hypoplasia, FEH, is instead a recessively inherited enamel defect linked to the ENAM gene. It can cause pitting, discolouration and abnormal tooth shape. UC Davis stresses that the FEH variant is not associated with periodontal disease; a DNA result therefore does not replace dental care.

Genetic risk assessments are available internationally for primary closed-angle glaucoma, PCAG, and progressive retinal atrophy, PRA. They do not give a simple answer that a dog is clear or will become affected. The PCAG test concerns two linked risk variants found in many, but not all, affected dogs in the study. The PRA result combines five risk regions, and other genetic forms may exist. These tests are not Swedish registration requirements and do not replace an eye examination.

Small puppies may jump from a height before they can control the landing, and the Swedish material mentions forearm fractures. Use non-slip flooring, controlled play and protection from high falls. Do not keep a healthy puppy still; varied, safe movement helps build the body.

Ask the breeder to show the examination and test results and explain how they were considered when the mating was planned. Also ask about dental, eye, knee and heart health, and fractures among close relatives. “Health tested” is not enough; ask for the test name, date, result and limitations.

## History & Origins

The breed standard describes a route from small sighthounds at the pharaohs' courts, through Greece, to Italy at the beginning of the fifth century BC. It also says that the breed's most important development took place at Renaissance courts. This is the official account, not evidence of an unbroken modern pedigree or every later royal anecdote.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes hunting small game as a historical role and further development in Italy, Germany and Austria. The companion role and sighthound qualities belong together: quick reactions, visually triggered pursuit and the ability to gallop remain.

In the FCI standard, Italy is the country of origin and the breed belongs to the sighthounds, not the toy and companion group. Its needs should therefore be considered those of a small sighthound, even if it enjoys resting close to the family.

## Living with the Breed

An Italian Greyhound can live well in a flat if it can be taken out easily, exercises every day, can run safely and has somewhere undisturbed to rest. Routines matter more than the size of the home. Slippery floors, uncontrolled jumps and long days alone do not become suitable simply because the dog is small.

Time alone should be taught gradually. Start when the dog has been out and is calm, leave for a short time and increase only when it can rest. A camera can show what happens, but a second dog is not a reliable solution. If the dog barks, howls, destroys things or cannot take food, take a step back in training; seek professional help if the problem is pronounced.

House training is a training issue, not a proven breed defect. Give frequent opportunities after sleep, meals and play, go outside with the dog and reward success. Protection from the weather may help, but consistent opportunities and supervision matter more than a special indoor toilet.

Put rugs where the dog slips, provide an undisturbed resting place and prevent unsafe high jumps. At the same time, let the dog explore different surfaces and use its body. Children and larger dogs require supervision; cats require a slow introduction and the option of separation.

Before buying a puppy, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- When were the parents' eyes examined, and what were the results?
- Are official patella results available, and did a vet listen to each parent's heart before breeding?
- Were FEH, PCAG or PRA risk panels used, and how should these particular results be interpreted?
- What is known about dental health, fractures, eye problems and knee problems in close and older relatives?
- How do the parents behave around new people, surfaces, handling, rest and short periods alone?
- How have the puppies been helped to develop balance, muscle, confidence in different environments and everyday routines?

A good match requires appreciation of the sighthound's speed and sensitivity, the ability to support safe physical development and a willingness to teach everyday life step by step. The Italian Greyhound can then be both a close companion and an active, capable little dog.

Italian Greyhound

The Italian Greyhound Club (UK)

The Italian Greyhound is a tiny, fine‑boned sighthound with a short, low‑shedding coat and elegant movement. Affectionate, sensitive and people‑oriented, it bonds closely, needs warmth, gentle training, moderate exercise with safe sprints, and careful handling to protect its delicate limbs.

Nosgården

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Juni och oktober 2024 ger tre skilda registerpunkter för Za'Potocky's, Whippet-uppfödare i Färila. En SKK-sida från 15 juni redovisar ett registreringsnummer från 2014 med prefixet. Vännäskatalogen den 9 juni innehåller en hund född 2018 vars mor bär samma namn. Timråkatalogen den 5 oktober placerar kenneln i uppfödarklass med fyra katalognummer.

Za'Potocky's

Dreamteam sweden

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Malinois is the short-coated variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. Under the FCI and the Swedish Kennel Club, the Malinois, Groenendael, Tervueren and Laekenois are four varieties of the same breed, distinguished chiefly by coat and colour.
- The Malinois is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog. The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females; the breed standard allows 2 cm below and 4 cm above the ideal.
- This is a watchful breed, quick in both thought and action, developed to work closely with people. Being quick to learn does not make a Malinois easy to live with: training also needs to develop calm behaviour, impulse control and recovery.
- A Malinois is best suited to someone who wants to train regularly and can provide both physical exercise and work for the nose and brain every day. Long walks alone rarely form a complete plan.
- Family dog, sport dog and service dog are not mutually exclusive roles, but the choice of breeder and litter matters greatly. Look at the parents’ everyday behaviour, temperament assessment, working achievements, health and previous offspring, not merely the breed name.

## Appearance & Coat

The Malinois should be medium-sized, square and powerful without looking heavy. Its body length should therefore be approximately equal to its height at the withers, rather than giving a distinctly long-bodied impression. The head is lean and well chiselled, the ears are small, triangular and erect, and movement should be light and lively.

The ideal height in the breed standard is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females, with a tolerance of 2 cm below and 4 cm above. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females. These figures describe an adult in normal condition; proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than a single reading on the scales.

The Malinois is short-coated. The hair is very short on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs, slightly fuller around the neck, thighs and tail, with a dense undercoat. The coat should be fawn with black overlay and a pronounced black mask. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes, but large white markings are outside the standard.

The coat does not require elaborate professional grooming. Brush it when hair is coming loose and bathe the dog when it is genuinely dirty. More frequent brushing is useful during shedding. After work in woodland, long grass or water, take the opportunity to check the skin, paws, nails and ears. The short coat makes inspection easy, but does not replace a regular hands-on check of the dog’s body.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Malinois is alert, active and very ready to act. At the same time, the breed ideal calls for a confident dog without fear or aggression. High intensity is not the same as poor emotional control, and a dog that is constantly stressed is not more typical simply because it is fast.

There is considerable variation between individuals. The Swedish Kennel Club tells prospective owners to expect differences both between the varieties and between individual dogs. A label such as “working, service or show line” is therefore not enough on which to base a decision. Ask to see how the parents greet people, recover after a surprise, accept handling, pass other dogs and settle when nothing is happening. Read the full Mentalbeskrivning Hund (MH), the Swedish working-dog temperament description, and ask how siblings and previous offspring cope with ordinary life.

A well-matched and well-managed Malinois can live successfully with children, but its speed and rapid reactions call for adult supervision. Children and dog should each have an undisturbed resting place, and boisterous games should stop before the dog begins to chase movement or becomes too aroused. Young children should never be responsible for training or walks. The same caution applies around cats, small animals and unfamiliar dogs: whether it works depends on the individual, previous experience and training. Introduce the animals gradually and make sure they can be kept apart.

## Training & Exercise

The Malinois needs physical and mental activity every day, but no credible fixed number of hours suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, the type of work and the ability to recover should guide the plan. A balanced week might combine walks and conditioning with tracking, scent work, obedience, working trials or another purposeful activity. The aim is not to make the dog as tired as possible, but to develop useful skills and a sustainable routine.

Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead walking, handling, stop and release cues, and the ability to wait and rest from an early age. Training should be reward-based, tailored to the individual and made harder gradually as the dog develops. Short, clear sessions with breaks often produce better work than repeating an exercise until the dog loses accuracy or becomes over-aroused.

Puppies and adolescents should not be exercised like fully grown service dogs. Develop strength, confidence in different environments and body awareness gradually, and do not let repetitive ball chasing, jumping or long runs become the entire activity plan. Watch movement and recovery. Stiffness, lameness, poorer concentration or an inability to settle after activity are reasons to reduce the load and, where necessary, consult a vet or an experienced instructor.

A first-time owner can succeed, but the learning curve is steep. A realistic plan includes access to a working-dog club or experienced trainer, support from the breeder and a clear idea of what the dog will do on dark weekday evenings and during periods when competition or service work is not taking place.

## Health

The Belgian Shepherd Dog is described as generally healthy and sound, but hips, elbows, epileptic-type seizures and back problems deserve particular attention. Before buying a puppy, it is important to distinguish binding registration rules from the breed club’s stricter breeding advice and to examine the wider family, not just each parent’s individual result.

For Swedish-registered breeding, the current Swedish Kennel Club rules require official hip and elbow status and known mental status for the parents covered by those provisions. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, known mental status means a complete MH with all 33 positions recorded; a Beteende- och personlighetsbeskrivning hund (BPH), the more general Swedish behaviour and personality assessment, does not replace this requirement for the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) additionally recommends A or B hips, clear elbows and a score of 1 or 2 in the MH gunshot item. Ask to see the original results and check siblings and previous offspring too.

Information about epilepsy needs careful interpretation. An older RAS survey captured reports of seizures or epileptic-type episodes in a small proportion of Malinois, but owners’ reports are not the same as veterinary diagnoses and the figures do not show how common the problem is in the breed today. Research demonstrates a hereditary component to epilepsy in Belgian Shepherd Dogs, with the strongest published evidence concerning the Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. Ask specifically about seizures in parents, siblings, half-siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a broad commercial DNA panel.

The RAS survey also flagged back problems in Malinois, but these were again reports from owners in an older sample and should not be read as current prevalence. Ask about spondylosis, lumbosacral problems, recurring lameness and work-related injuries in the family. For an active dog, an honest family history, official joint results and a plan for progressive conditioning are more useful than a long list of possible diagnoses.

## History & Origins

The Malinois originated in Belgium and developed from the local sheepdogs used in the late 1800s. The Belgian Shepherd Dog Club was founded in Brussels in 1891. In the same year, veterinary professor Adolphe Reul brought together 117 dogs to describe and select a more consistent type, and a first detailed breed standard was in place by 1892.

The first Belgian Shepherd Dogs entered the Belgian stud book in 1901, and by about 1910 the type and temperament were considered established. In today’s FCI standard, the Belgian Shepherd Dog is one breed with four varieties: the short-coated Malinois, the long-coated Groenendael and Tervueren, and the rough-coated Laekenois. The Malinois takes its name from Malines, the French name for the city of Mechelen, where the short-coated type was developed.

As the need for traditional herding declined, the work changed. Traits needed around livestock and farms — attentiveness, agility, stamina and close co-operation — found new uses in working trials, search, guarding and service work. That background explains the breed’s capacity, but it does not mean that every individual is automatically suited to every task.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Malinois works best when activity, recovery and household rules have been planned before the dog arrives. A large empty garden does not replace shared work, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. What matters is whether the dog can receive daily physical and mental activity, learn to remain calm indoors and be managed safely in stairwells, on public transport and when passing other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. An adult dog that is comfortable being left can normally manage a few hours, while a young puppy cannot be left alone. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, more often when young or old. This is a supervision threshold, not a target for how long a Malinois should be left; the dog’s actual response determines whether training needs to progress more slowly.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to say yes to the following:

- I have a clear training aim and time for both activity and rest every day.
- I have met the parents, or received credible information about their everyday behaviour, MH results, working ability and recovery.
- I have checked official hip, elbow and mental status and asked about epileptic-type seizures, back problems and temperament in the close family.
- I have a plan for children, visitors and other animals based on supervision, separation and gradual training.
- I have access to knowledgeable help if the dog’s intensity, fear, chasing behaviour or stress becomes difficult to manage.

For the right handler, the Malinois is an exceptionally versatile training partner. The sustainable choice, however, is not the puppy that appears most explosive, but the individual whose traits, family history and breeding purpose fit the life you can actually provide.

Belgian Malinois

Deutscher Club für Belgische Schäferhunde e.V. (Germany)

Belgian Malinois: medium‑large, lean, and highly athletic herding dog with a short fawn coat and black mask. Extremely intelligent, intense, loyal, and people‑focused. Needs firm structure, daily mental work, and heavy exercise; thrives with experienced, very active owners.

Gillzon

Chi'nova

Schapendoes

Schapendoes Club of Great Britain

The Kennel Club (UK) - Schapendoes

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) - Schapendoes

Swedish Kennel Club - Schapendoes

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK) - Schapendoes

Cheerful Dutch herding breed with a shaggy, low‑shedding but high‑maintenance coat. Medium, athletic and agile, it needs daily exercise and mental work yet is calm and cuddly indoors. Intelligent, sensitive and people focused, it suits active, engaged owners and varied dog sports.

Åtta olika registreringsnummer med Workingdoezen-prefixet återfinns i två SKK-resultat från 2019: tre hanar och fem tikar av rasen Schapendoes. För Workingdoezen i Vara ger listorna ett konkret tvärsnitt från samma kalenderår. En officiell SKK-katalog från 2026 tillför en hund född 2021 vars mor också bär prefixet och anger Vara som uppfödarort.

Workingdoezen

## Quick Facts

The French Bulldog is a small, sturdy and sociable companion dog from France. It should be lively and active, but its shortened skull and muzzle carry a risk of breathing problems and impaired temperature regulation. Anyone considering the breed should therefore assess function and documented health as carefully as temperament and appearance.

- **Breed group and purpose:** FCI Group 9, companion dog
- **Height at the withers:** males 27–35 cm, females 24–32 cm
- **Weight:** males 9–14 kg, females 8–13 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and without an undercoat
- **Colours in the breed standard:** fawn, brindle and pied, with the markings described in the standard
- **Ideal temperament:** sociable, lively, playful and affectionate
- **Important Swedish health assessment:** RFG-Scheme has been mandatory before breeding within SKK since 1 January 2025

The breed is not an obvious choice for anyone seeking a dog with low care needs. A French Bulldog should be able to move freely and breathe freely even while moving. Audible or laboured breathing is not a charming or normal breed trait.

## Appearance & Coat

The French Bulldog should be compact and muscular without becoming heavy, immobile or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the head is broad and the upright “bat ears” are a defining feature. The whole dog should function in motion: open nostrils, adequate muzzle length, free movement and a body that does not prevent activity matter more than an extreme appearance.

The breed standard specifies different measurements for each sex. Males should stand 27–35 cm and weigh 9–14 kg, while females should stand 24–32 cm and weigh 8–13 kg. These figures are not a target weight for every individual. A suitable body condition depends on the dog’s build, muscle mass and body fat; excess weight puts additional strain on breathing, joints and the back.

The coat is short, smooth, soft and glossy, with no undercoat. Shedding can normally be managed with simple brushing as needed. At the same time, check the nails, paws, ears, teeth and skin. Facial folds should be kept clean and dry, but care should follow the skin’s actual condition. Redness, odour, discharge, itching or soreness call for advice, not simply more frequent cleaning.

The breed standard’s colours are fawn, brindle and pied. Blue and merle are not accepted colours. A puppy marketed as a “rare colour” should be assessed using the same important evidence as any other puppy: registration, respiratory function, the parent dogs and the breeder’s breeding programme.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the French Bulldog should be sociable, lively, playful and affectionate. Many individuals enjoy contact and like to take part in family life. The breed can learn quickly, but independence and stubbornness mean that clear routines and worthwhile rewards often work better than repetition or harsh corrections.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not every dog. Inheritance, early experience, health, pain, environment and training all affect an individual’s behaviour. A dog that struggles to breathe or is uncomfortable because of its skin, back or joints may also have less patience and recover less well. Temperament should therefore be considered alongside physical function.

BPH shows how a particular dog responded during a standardised behavioural assessment. It is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy’s future personality. The older Swedish BPH analysis covered only a small proportion of French Bulldogs born in Sweden. For a puppy buyer, it is therefore more useful to meet the dam and ask how the parents and close relatives cope with unfamiliar people, dog encounters, unexpected noises, handling, activity and rest.

The breed can suit a well-informed first-time owner who is prepared for reward-based training, daily activity and possible veterinary needs. It is less suitable when the choice is based mainly on small size, a particular look or the assumption that a short-muzzled dog automatically needs very little exercise.

## Training & Exercise

A French Bulldog needs daily walks, scent work, play and everyday training, but no single number of exercise minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, weather and, above all, the dog’s breathing and recovery determine what is appropriate. Cooling through panting is less efficient in short-muzzled dogs, so the same activity may be easy on a cool day and unsuitable in hot weather.

Plan several manageable activities rather than one long session that has to be completed. Let the dog sniff, walk calmly over varied ground and use its brain through searches and simple problem-solving. Build fitness gradually and watch the dog throughout the activity. Slow down or stop if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, the nostrils narrow, the dog uses its abdomen forcefully to breathe, falls behind or does not recover normally. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness requires immediate veterinary attention.

In hot weather, walks need to be moved to cooler times, the pace reduced and the dog given shade, water and a cool place to rest. Never leave the dog in a hot car or another enclosed space. A dog that repeatedly struggles during moderate activity or warm weather needs a veterinary assessment; merely avoiding all exercise is not a solution.

Prioritise attention, calm lead walking, recall, ending play, settling and accepting checks of the mouth, ears, facial folds, paws and nails. Teach the dog to be alone in very small steps once it already feels secure at home. Reward-based methods make each task clear and make necessary handling easier.

## Health

The most important health problem to understand in the French Bulldog is BOAS, brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome. It occurs when there is insufficient space for the soft tissues within the shortened nose and throat. The consequences can include noisy or laboured breathing, poor stamina, disturbed sleep and difficulty regulating body temperature.

RFG-Scheme is a veterinary assessment that evaluates respiratory function before and after three minutes of brisk exercise and grades the result from 0 to 3. Since 1 January 2025, French Bulldogs have been covered by a Level 2 health programme within SKK: dogs used for breeding must have a result before mating. An official result can be registered from 24 months of age and must be no more than two years old at the time of mating. Grade 0 is recommended; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be used for breeding under SKK rules. A dog that has undergone airway surgery cannot be assessed within the scheme.

An RFG result describes the dog’s condition at the time of the assessment and does not remove the need for your own observations. It is not a lifetime guarantee and does not cover every other health risk. Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents’ registered names, assessment dates and actual RFG grades. Ideally, see the parents both at rest and after normal movement: breathing should be free, recovery reasonable and the nostrils open. Do not accept “tested” or “vet checked” as a substitute for the registered result.

Other documented areas of risk include allergies and skin disease, problems affecting the back, skeleton and joints including patellar luxation, and injuries to the prominent eyes. This does not mean that every dog will be affected. Ask about recurring skin problems, lameness, back pain and eye injuries in the parents and close relatives. The Swedish breed club also recommends that puppy buyers ask about patellas, the heart and breathing in the adult dogs; these questions should be distinguished from the formal RFG requirement.

Contact a vet about recurring breathing noises, clear exercise or heat intolerance, sleep disturbed by breathing, smelly or painful skin, recurring lameness, back pain, or a red, watery or painful eye. Early assessment is better than waiting for a problem to become “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The French Bulldog was established as a breed in Paris in the late nineteenth century. The first breed club was founded in Paris in 1880, the first dog was registered in 1885 and the first breed standard was adopted in 1898. The French kennel club recognised the breed in the same year.

The breed developed as a companion dog and acquired the compact body, broad head and upright bat ears that still characterise the standard. The French Bulldog was first shown in Sweden in 1913. Its historical type explains the modern appearance, but breeding today should not intensify these features to the point that breathing, eyes, back, tail or movement are adversely affected.

## Living with the Breed

A French Bulldog can live in a flat or a house because the size of the home alone does not determine whether daily life will work. What matters is that the dog receives daily activity, can rest undisturbed and has a secure, cool environment. In a flat, sounds from stairwells and outside windows should be addressed through early training, and access to a lift or the number of stairs may become important if the dog is in pain or has difficulty breathing.

The same safety rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult is responsible for their interaction. Children should not disturb the dog while it eats or rests, climb on it or persist when it tries to move away. Provide a protected resting place and teach both children and dog to interact calmly. Small size and a playful temperament do not automatically make an individual safe with children.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and their previous experiences. Make introductions gradually, with a way to separate the animals and without forcing close contact. Socialisation may improve the prospects but cannot guarantee that every combination will work. Pay particular attention to stress, resource guarding and whether another dog’s play becomes too physical for an individual with limited breathing capacity.

Time alone needs to be taught gradually, beginning with very short periods. Increase the duration only when the dog can remain calm, and consider using a camera to detect distress or barking that is not apparent when you return. The breed should not be chosen with a plan to leave the dog alone for most of the day on a regular basis.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can we put unrestricted breathing and sound physical function ahead of an extreme appearance or an unusual colour?
- Can we verify the parents’ identities, RFG grades and assessment dates rather than relying on verbal assurances?
- Can we adapt activity to heat and the dog’s condition without making it inactive?
- Do we have the time and financial capacity to manage the veterinary needs that may accompany the breed’s body shape?

If the answers are yes and the breeder can show verifiable results, the French Bulldog can be a lively and close companion. The most important choice is not the most extreme head or rarest colour, but a dog that can breathe, move, recover and enjoy an active everyday life.

French Bulldog

The French Bulldog Club of England

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The French Bulldog is a small, muscular companion dog with a short coat and bat-like ears. Affectionate, people oriented, and playful yet calm indoors, it suits apartment life. It needs moderate, carefully managed exercise, regular skin, ear, and nail care, and attention to breathing and weight.

Lill Lills

Svenska Whippetklubbens uppfödarlista placerar Botaniskans i Romakloster. I klubbens Vilsta-katalog 2024 finns en Whippet född 2021 vars mor också bär Botaniskans-prefixet. Klubbens sammanställning från SKK:s Romaklosterutställning samma år tar upp en annan hund med prefixet i öppen klass. Därmed återkommer kenneln i uppfödarlista, katalogpost och separat resultatrapport.

Dog and cat breeders in Bromma

For buyers

Breeders

Cats

Dogs

Get a Pet