Misa

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

The Kennel Club (UK)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Kenneln startades 1939 och fick Hamiltonplaketten 1951. Var en mycket framgångsrik kennel fram till 90-talet. Sen dess har kenneln legat vilande och nu är första kullen född på 24 år. Vår ambition är att föda upp en aktiv familjehund. Vi tycker att den ultimata hunden både går att arbeta med, visar sig bra på utställning och är en trygg familjemedlem.

Kennel Säterjäntan

## Quick Facts

The Boxer is a sociable, energetic and physically powerful working breed that thrives when it can play an active part in family life. It suits someone who wants to devote time to shared exercise, training and play every day, and who enjoys an expressive dog with a strong desire for company and plenty of initiative.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Role:** Working, companion and guard dog
- **Size:** males 57–63 cm and around 30 kg; females 53–59 cm and around 25 kg
- **Coat:** very short, fawn or brindle with a black mask; white markings may occur
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for both physical exercise and purposeful tasks
- **Lifespan:** roughly 9–11 years is a broad guide

The important question is not whether you like the Boxer's appearance, but whether you want to live with a lively, powerful dog that needs guidance. In an active household, a Boxer can be a close, playful and willing companion. It is less suitable for someone looking for a low-energy, independent dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Boxer is a medium-sized, compact dog with a square outline, strong bone and clearly defined muscles. It should look athletic without appearing heavy or cumbersome. The distinctive head has a broad muzzle, a black mask and a natural undershot bite. The muzzle is short, but its proportions should be balanced and the nostrils open; an extremely short muzzle is not the aim.

Males usually stand 57–63 cm at the withers and weigh around 30 kg. Females stand 53–59 cm and weigh around 25 kg. That is enough dog for pulling on the lead, jumping up and unruly greetings to become difficult to manage if training is postponed.

The coat is short, hard, glossy and close-fitting. The base colour is fawn in various shades or brindle, always with a black mask. Small white markings may be present. Entirely or predominantly white dogs do occur, but white is not an accepted colour under the breed standard. When choosing a dog, health and temperament matter more than its markings.

Coat care is straightforward. Brush during periods of heavier shedding, bathe when needed and wipe the paws after wet walks. The short coat makes the skin easy to inspect, so check for redness, itching, sores and new lumps. Examine the ears, nails and teeth regularly too. Nails should be trimmed when they grow too long, and persistent skin or ear problems should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Boxer is sociable, alert, curious and playful. It seeks contact and likes to be wherever the family is, while retaining the watchfulness and confidence of a working dog. Many keep a youthful, physical style of play well into adulthood.

A Boxer can fit very well into an active family with children, but “good with children” is never a guarantee for an individual dog. The breed is strong, quick and often exuberant when excited. Small children can be knocked over accidentally, and play between a dog and a child should always be supervised by an adult. Teach calm greetings, settling on a bed or mat and ending a game from an early age.

Relationships with other dogs vary. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that aggression towards other dogs occurs within the breed, and encounters with other dogs are an everyday challenge for some Boxer owners. This does not mean that Boxers are generally unsociable. It does mean that controlled social training, lead handling and the ability to disengage from other dogs deserve serious attention. Match playmates to the individual and its style of play; a Boxer's physical play may be too intense for small or cautious dogs.

Some Boxers are open with strangers, while others are more reserved. Early, thoughtful socialisation gives the dog experience of people, places, surfaces and everyday sounds without turning every encounter into a greeting. The aim is a confident dog that can remain neutral when the situation calls for it.

## Training & Exercise

A Boxer needs to move and use its brain every day. Short toilet walks alone are not enough for a healthy adult, but the same time target will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, temperature, breathing and health should determine the workload. A good week includes a mix of walks in varied surroundings, free movement in a secure area, play and tasks such as tracking, search work, obedience or other dog sports.

Use reward-based methods. Reward the behaviour you want to see more often with food, play or social contact, and set up each exercise so the dog can succeed. Harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary. Short, focused sessions often suit a lively dog, but variety and a clear daily routine matter most.

Prioritise the skills that make a powerful dog easy to live with:

- walking on a loose lead
- returning when called and stopping play when asked
- passing dogs and people while paying attention to the handler
- greeting with all four paws on the ground
- leaving items and waiting at doors
- switching from activity to rest in a designated place

Lead walking, recall, encounters with other dogs and exuberant greetings were recurring challenges in the Swedish Boxer Club's 2025 owner survey. A puppy or adolescent training class can therefore provide useful help early on. Adapt exercise while the dog is growing and increase duration and intensity gradually instead of immediately taking a young dog running or cycling.

## Health

When choosing a Boxer and breeder, examine the health background carefully. Conditions found in the breed include hip dysplasia, spondylosis, renal dysplasia, knee problems in older dogs, and skin disease and allergies. Heart disease and tumours are also important areas in the breed's health programme. A Swedish study of insured dogs also found a markedly increased risk of mast cell tumours in Boxers.

The Boxer is short-muzzled, but not every Boxer has brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS. Even so, obvious breathing noise, laboured breathing, poor recovery or heat intolerance should not be dismissed as normal for the breed. The Boxer is included in special show guidance that draws attention to breathing, muzzle length and skin. Since May 2026, Boxers in Sweden have also been eligible for the standardised RFG-S breathing assessment. The test can provide more information about a dog's breathing, but it is not a general mandatory breeding requirement for the Boxer.

Ask a breeder to explain the results rather than simply saying that the parents have been “tested”:

- Check the parents' official hip dysplasia results and ask about the planned litter's HD index. The Swedish Boxer Club's strategy cites the Swedish Kennel Club recommendation that the estimated litter index should exceed 100.
- Review the parents' MH temperament assessment results and ask how close relatives behave in everyday life.
- Ask for a heart examination. The breed club recommends auscultation by a specialist or Doppler/ultrasound for both parents.
- Ask for spondylosis radiographs taken after 24 months of age, as recommended by the breed club.
- Ask whether RFG-S has been completed, and listen to the dogs' breathing yourself at rest and after light activity.
- Ask the breeder about cancer, kidney disease, skin problems, knees and longevity among close relatives.

Keep the dog lean and build fitness gradually. Seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, unusually increased thirst or urination, new or changing lumps, or clear breathing difficulty. Early checks cannot remove genetic risk, but they improve the chance of finding a problem promptly.

## History & Origins

The Boxer was developed in Germany from local dog types during the nineteenth century. Its closest documented ancestor is the Brabanter Bullenbeisser, a German bulldog type that worked with hunters. Its task was to seize and hold game driven towards it until the hunter arrived, which explains the importance of the broad muzzle and powerful jaws.

The modern Boxer became a versatile working, guard and companion dog. The first breed standard was published in 1902. The origin of the name Boxer has not been established with certainty, so the idea that it comes from the dog's use of its front paws in play should be treated as a story rather than documented fact.

The breed's background can still be seen in its enthusiasm for work, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate. A modern Boxer does not have to train in a particular discipline, but it benefits from regularly solving tasks alongside its handler.

## Living with the Breed

A Boxer can live in a flat, a terraced house or a detached house; the daily plan matters more than the amount of floor space. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, training and experience of different surroundings. Indoors, the dog needs to learn how to settle. Otherwise, the family may find themselves living with a large, highly aroused dog that continually invents its own activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that some Boxers struggle to be left alone, so arrange a dog sitter or other help if working days are long. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings. Six hours is the interval in that guidance, not an assurance that every Boxer is comfortable being alone for that long.

Plan around the weather too. The Boxer's short coat provides limited protection in cold conditions, while the short muzzle calls for extra care in heat. Dogs affected by BOAS may find it harder to regulate their body temperature. Schedule more strenuous activity for cooler parts of a hot day, provide water and shade, and stop if breathing or recovery differs from normal. In cold weather, watch how the dog moves, whether its coat is wet and whether it shows discomfort when deciding if a coat is needed.

The Boxer is best suited to a family that can answer yes to four questions: Do we want to give the dog purposeful activity every day? Can we teach calm behaviour and everyday manners consistently? Do we have a sustainable plan for time alone? Are we prepared to examine health and breathing as carefully as temperament and appearance? If the answer is yes, the breed's energy, humour and strong desire for contact can become its greatest strengths in daily life.

Boxer

The Boxer Club UK

Boxer Klub e.V. Germany

Svenska Boxerklubben (Swedish Boxer Club)

The Boxer is a medium‑large, athletic dog with a short coat and expressive, broad head. Lively, playful, and people‑oriented, it bonds closely with families and is often gentle with children. Energetic and protective, it needs consistent training, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Välkommen till Blejdas! Vi är en familjär kennel i Stockholm, uppfödning i hemmet, som har funnits sedan 2016. Vår kärlek till Boxer driver oss att föda upp friska, glada och välbalanserade hundar. 
Tycker om utställning, sök och spår.

Vår kennel är inte bara en plats för avel, utan ett hem där våra hundar får mycket kärlek och uppmärksamhet. Välkommen att besöka oss och upptäcka Blejdas.

Blejdas

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Cewells är en uppfödare av rasen Tax med bas i Bålsta i Sverige. Verksamheten omfattar korthåriga och långhåriga varianter i kanin-, dvärg- och normalstorlek.

Cewells

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Dark Night Eagles är en uppfödare av raserna Pudel, dvärg och Pudel, toy med bas i Nykvarn i Sverige.

Dark Night Eagles

## Quick Facts

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is a small, lively companion dog that usually wants to stay close to its people. The breed can suit a first-time owner or a family prepared to train regularly, but it is not an effortless choice simply because it is small. The coat needs consistent care, time alone must be introduced gradually, and the individual dog's temperament matters more than broad descriptions of the breed.

- The breed is recognised nationally by the Nordic kennel clubs and is placed in Group 9, but it is not recognised by the FCI.
- The desired maximum height at the withers is 26 cm, and the ideal weight is 3–4 kg.
- The coat is long, dense, and curly or wavy. It often sheds relatively little, but that does not make the breed allergy-free.
- The breed standard calls for an affectionate, lively and cheerful dog. Swedish behavioural evidence is too limited, however, to make firm promises about every individual.
- A puppy buyer should check recorded results for patellae, eyes and prcd-PRA, while also asking how the parents behave in everyday situations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka should be small and compact, with a body that is slightly longer than the height at the withers. Under the standard, body length may be no more than 15 per cent greater than height. The abundant coat can make the dog look rounder than it is, so body condition and structure need to be assessed by touch as well as by sight.

The coat should be long, dense and moderately thick, with large curls or waves. There may be a moderate undercoat, or none at all. All colours are permitted except solid white, spotted or parti-colour, and merle. A very small, barely visible white mark may occur on the chin, throat, forechest or toes. Larger white areas are therefore not part of the accepted colour pattern.

The coat needs to be combed through regularly, right down towards the skin. Long, soft hair tangles most readily where there is friction, including the armpits, groin, behind the ears, and beneath a harness or collar. How often the whole coat needs attention depends on its texture and length and on the dog's routine, but vulnerable areas should be checked frequently and small tangles eased out before they tighten into mats. From the start, teach the puppy to accept a comb, paw handling and short pauses on a non-slip surface.

For presentation under the official show standard, the coat must not be clipped or trimmed, apart from neatening the hair on the feet. Hair on the head may be tied up if it falls in front of the eyes. This rule describes how the breed is presented to the standard. In everyday life, the coat still needs care that prevents discomfort around the skin, eyes and feet.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes an affectionate, lively, cheerful and sociable companion. Many people therefore look for a Bolonka that enjoys taking part in family life and is easy to bring along. That is a reasonable aim, but it is no guarantee that every dog will automatically feel confident with strangers, remain quiet in a flat or find every encounter easy.

Evidence from the Swedish population is limited. The current breed-specific breeding strategy drew on just 20 completed BPH behavioural assessments and 139 responses to a health and behaviour survey, among other material. That is not enough for confident conclusions about the whole breed. In the survey, 18.7 per cent of respondents said they were not satisfied with their dog's behaviour, but this is a survey result rather than a reliable estimate for the population. Its main value is to show why a friendly description of the breed cannot replace an assessment of the prospective litter's parents.

Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, unexpected sounds, handling and other dogs, and how readily they settle after activity. BPH results, where available, can add useful observations, but read the full description rather than searching for a single pass mark. Barking and interest in chasing can vary with both the individual and the environment; there is not enough evidence to promise a particular level across the breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka needs daily movement, mental activity and rest, but there is no sound breed-specific formula expressed in minutes. A balanced routine might include walks in varied surroundings, scent work, play and short training sessions. Adjust the duration and difficulty to the dog's age, fitness and recovery. A dog that struggles to settle may need less excitement and more recovery, while one that loses focus and invents its own entertainment may benefit from more purposeful stimulation.

Use reward-based training, progress in small steps and account for the individual dog's motivation. Start early with the skills that make everyday life easier: attention, recall, waiting at a door, walking calmly on a lead, settling in a chosen place, and accepting coat and paw care. Take the puppy out frequently after sleep, food and play, praise it for toileting outside, and do not punish indoor accidents. Reward calm behaviour before the dog becomes worked up and barks at sounds or visitors, while also reducing environmental triggers that keep the behaviour going.

A small body is no reason to carry the dog through every situation. Allow it to move, explore and solve manageable problems on its own feet. Avoid, however, demands that are not suitable for a young or unconditioned dog. The breed is described as trainable and may enjoy activities such as scent work, rally obedience or other sports based on cooperation between dog and handler.

## Health

There is not enough evidence to give a reliable account of the breed's most common health problems in Sweden. When the current breeding strategy was prepared, there were few dogs in the country, the health survey had 139 responses, and no breed-specific insurance statistics were available. There is therefore no sound basis for presenting a long list of conditions as unusually common in this breed. Puppy buyers will get better evidence by examining recorded tests for the parents and close relatives.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella result. This examination records whether the kneecap is stable or can be displaced during a veterinary assessment. The aim is to mate two dogs with no abnormality. Under the recommendation, a dog graded 1 should only be mated to a dog with no abnormality, while dogs graded 2 or above should not be used for breeding.

For eye health, the recommendation is a clear eye examination no more than one year before mating. The club also recommends a recorded DNA result for prcd-PRA: a carrier should be mated to a genetically clear dog, not to another carrier. A prcd-PRA DNA test answers only for the variant being tested. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye changes, so it cannot replace a clinical eye examination.

These are the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules contain no breed-specific condition that makes these particular results compulsory for registering a litter. The distinction matters: a registered puppy may come from a mating that does not follow every club recommendation. Ask to see the original results or check them in the Swedish Kennel Club's dog database, and ask how the breeder has considered the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The breed was developed as a companion dog in the former Soviet Union. The current standard states that breeding began in 1951, using small dogs of unknown origin. This cautious account is more reliable than detailed stories naming particular foundation breeds without firm documentation.

The first breed standard was approved in 1966. Interest and numbers increased during the 1970s and 1980s, and a national breed club was founded in 1999. The standard was revised in 2010 and 2019. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 2006, and the first Swedish litters were born in 2007. Since 2013, the breed has had national recognition and been eligible for shows within the Nordic kennel organisations, despite still lacking FCI recognition.

## Living with the Breed

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka can live well in a flat if it receives suitable toilet breaks, activity and rest, alongside training to remain calm when it hears sounds in the stairwell or outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the way daily life is organised. Anyone looking for a small dog to fit a sedentary lifestyle should reconsider: the breed's size reduces the space it occupies, not its need for company, movement and learning.

Time alone must be introduced in very small, calm steps. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. Begin when the dog feels secure and has been taken out, step away briefly, and return before it becomes worried. Increase the time only when the dog can rest. Arrange help if the working day requires longer absences than the individual dog can cope with without distress.

Young children need adult supervision around the dog. Such a small dog requires an undisturbed resting place and should not be lifted, carried or pursued by young children. Teach the child to call the dog rather than grabbing it, and allow the dog to walk away. This protects both dog and child and tells you more about a safe home than the label “good with children”.

Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give the cat high escape routes and a dog-free area, prevent chasing, keep the dog on a lead during the first controlled meetings, and reward calm behaviour. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over time. Small pets should always be protected by secure separation.

The breed may shed less than many other dogs, but it is not hypoallergenic. Dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin, and amounts vary even among individuals of the same breed. Low shedding does not show that a dog produces fewer allergens. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore rely on medical advice, not on a promise attached to a particular breed.

Before buying, focus on concrete checks: meet the dam if possible and watch how she recovers from ordinary events, ask for patella, eye and prcd-PRA results, discuss the true workload involved in coat care, and plan for time alone, children or other animals in your own home. This tests whether the individual dog and the way it has been bred suit your life, instead of relying on its small size or an idealised breed description.

Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka

Svenska Kennelklubben (SKK)

Deutscher Verband der Gebrauchshundsportvereine (DVG)

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Small, sturdy Russian toy breed with a long, wavy low‑shedding coat and many colors. Affectionate, people‑oriented and sensitive, it thrives on close companionship and moderate daily exercise. Intelligent and adaptable to apartments, but needs regular grooming and dislikes long solitude.

Uppfödning av den underbara rasen russkaya tsvetnaya bolonka I hemmamiljö med meriterade och hälsotestade föräldrar
www.capilluspilas.se

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Capillus Pilas

## Quick Facts

The Chihuahua is a Mexican companion dog and the smallest recognized dog breed in the world. It is small enough to accompany its owner almost anywhere, but it still needs training, exercise, and opportunities to use its nose and mind like other dogs.

- **Origin:** Mexico
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Weight according to the breed standard:** 1–3 kg, with 1.5–2.5 kg as the ideal weight
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height range; the Chihuahua is judged by weight
- **Coat:** smooth or long
- **Breed-typical temperament:** quick, alert, lively, and very courageous
- **Important health checks:** knees, teeth, bite, eyes, and the fontanelle of the skull

“Teacup”, “mini”, and similar terms are not recognized sizes or separate varieties of Chihuahua. There is only one weight standard and two coat varieties. Under the breed standard, a weight below 1 kg or above 3 kg is a disqualifying fault. An unusually small dog still belongs to the same breed, and low weight is not in itself proof of quality or good health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chihuahua should be compact and slightly longer than tall, with an apple-shaped head, large upright ears, and a high-carried tail. The expression should be alert, but the eyes should not protrude and the muzzle must not be excessively short.

The smooth-coated variety has a short, soft, glossy coat that lies close to the body. The long-coated variety has a fine, silky coat that is flat or slightly wavy, with longer hair on areas including the ears, neck, legs, and tail. A long coat should therefore not be heavy or excessively flowing; an overly abundant coat is not typical of the breed.

Coat care is generally straightforward. Bathe the dog when dirty and comb the long-coated variety about once a week, paying particular attention behind the ears and to the longer feathering. The smooth coat can be brushed as needed. Use the same routine to accustom the dog to having its nails, teeth, ears, and eyes checked.

All colours and colour combinations are allowed except merle. Merle is therefore not a rare accepted Chihuahua colour but is expressly excluded by the international breed standard.

## Temperament & Personality

A breed-typical Chihuahua is quick to react, alert, lively, and courageous. It may readily signal when something happens around the home, but fear, aggression, or continuous barking should not be described as inevitable breed traits. The current breed standard accepts neither aggression nor extreme shyness.

Many individuals form close bonds with their family and are attentive to unfamiliar people, sounds, and dogs. How this is expressed is influenced by heredity, early experiences, health, and what the dog has learned. A Chihuahua that is always carried away gets fewer opportunities to practise calm encounters and move through different environments. At the same time, such a small dog should not be forced to greet others or endure intrusive play in an attempt to “socialize” it. Good socialization means brief, safe experiences in which the dog can keep its distance and recover.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and takes its small size seriously. It is less suitable for someone seeking an accessory or assuming that a small body automatically means little responsibility.

## Training & Exercise

The Chihuahua needs daily movement and mental activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, surface, weather, and recovery are better guides than a generic walking schedule. A healthy adult Chihuahua can enjoy walks, scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, and suitably adapted dog sports.

Train progressively with reward-based methods. Prioritize recall, lead manners, calm handling, and teaching the dog to stop barking and settle. Short sessions can be practical, but finish according to the dog's concentration rather than after a fixed number of minutes. The same kind, consistent rules should apply to a small dog as to a large one.

A Chihuahua should normally be allowed to walk rather than be carried, so that it gets the exercise and experience of different environments it needs. Carrying the dog is sensible in crowds, where there is a risk of injury, or when it genuinely needs help, but it should not replace exercise. Puppies need more breaks and a gradual increase in physical demands; an adult dog that suddenly refuses to walk or becomes lame should be examined rather than simply carried onward.

## Health

The most useful health checks for a Chihuahua concern the knees, mouth and teeth, and a head shape without exaggeration. A long list of possible diagnoses is less helpful than knowing what to check in the parents, puppy, and adult dog.

- **Patellar luxation:** The kneecap can slip out of its normal position, and lameness or an abnormal gait may be signs. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official patella result from an examination performed at the age of at least one year and before mating. Ask to see the results in the Swedish Kennel Club register and always check which rules apply at the time of purchase.
- **Teeth:** A British study of veterinary records found periodontal disease and retained deciduous teeth among the most commonly recorded problems in Chihuahuas. Accustom the puppy to daily toothbrushing and watch closely as the adult teeth come in. If a deciduous tooth remains when the permanent tooth erupts beside it, the mouth should be assessed by a veterinarian.
- **Head and eyes:** The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions for judges highlight risks associated with excessive dwarfism, an overly short muzzle, incorrect bite or jaw, and overly prominent eyes. Do not ask only about an “apple head”; look for a functional bite, a muzzle without exaggeration, and eyes that do not bulge.
- **Fontanelle:** An open fontanelle, sometimes called a molera, is not a desirable feature. It is a disqualifying fault under the current breed standard. A small depression after the fontanelle has closed is different and is not disqualifying. A puppy or adult dog with a suspected opening should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Also monitor body condition and movement. Sudden lameness, eye pain, or difficulty eating should be taken seriously.

## History & Origins

Mexico is the Chihuahua's official country of origin, and the breed takes its name from the Mexican state of Chihuahua. This is well established, but the exact path to the modern dog is less well documented.

The official breed standard recounts a tradition that small dogs may have lived in the region during the time of the Toltecs. Depictions of dogs called Techichi at Tula resemble the modern Chihuahua. The standard presents this as an assumption, not as proof of an unbroken lineage. Stories about a specific ancient ancestor or a particular cross should therefore be described as theories rather than established history.

## Living with the Breed

The Chihuahua can thrive in an apartment, a family with children, or a home with other animals when daily life is arranged appropriately. The size of the home matters less than regular time outdoors, training, rest, and avoiding situations in which its small body is at risk of injury.

An adult should always be present around young children. Children need to learn to leave the dog undisturbed in its resting place and not to lift, carry, or chase it. This does not mean that the breed “dislikes children”; it is a practical safety rule for a dog weighing only a few kilograms.

Compatibility with dogs and cats depends on the individuals, not just the breed name. Let two dogs meet calmly in neutral territory and interrupt play that becomes too physical. When introducing a cat, a gate, separate resting places, and protected feeding areas are useful. The difference in size matters: even friendly play with a much larger dog can injure a Chihuahua, so interactions need supervision.

Alone-time should be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they tolerate. Use the dog's behaviour as your guide instead of assuming that every Chihuahua develops separation anxiety or can cope for the same length of time.

In cold, windy, or wet weather, an individual may need a well-fitting dog coat, but there is no meaningful temperature threshold that applies to every dog. Adapt to coat variety, age, health, activity, and the dog's own signs of discomfort. The best daily life therefore combines care for a very small body with the expectation that the Chihuahua should be allowed to live as a dog.

Chihuahua

The British Chihuahua Club

The Chihuahua is a tiny yet sturdy companion dog, usually 1.5–3 kg with an apple-shaped head and large eyes. Found in smooth or long coats in many colors, it is devoted, alert, and bold. It needs daily walks, training, close companionship, and good health and dental care to thrive.

Ola & Måsas chihuahuor är en uppfödare av rasen Chihuahua med bas i Täby i Sverige.

Ola & Måsas chihuahuor

## Quick Facts

The Leonberger is a very large German companion and family dog. The breed ideal combines calm confidence with a profuse double coat and a clear need to take part in everyday family life. Size affects almost every decision: training must start early, coat care takes regular time, and the home, car and budget all need to work for a giant dog.

- The FCI recognises the Leonberger as breed number 145 in Group 2, with Germany as its country of origin.
- Males should stand 72–80 cm at the withers and females 65–75 cm. The breed standard specifies no weight.
- The breed ideal is a confident, biddable and friendly family dog, but each dog’s temperament and experience of children must be assessed individually.
- The coat is long and profuse, with an undercoat. Leonbergers shed heavily, particularly during distinct seasonal moults.
- A Leonberger needs physical and mental activity every day, adjusted to age, health and recovery.
- In Sweden, breeding dogs must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The breed club’s RAS breeding strategy contains further recommendations worth checking when choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Leonberger is a powerful, muscular dog that should still look balanced, agile and elegant. Males stand 72–80 cm and females 65–75 cm. The FCI standard gives no weight range, so a particular figure on the scales is not an official measure of breed type. Proportions, body condition, movement and the build of adult relatives are more useful guides.

A black mask is required by the breed standard. The base colour may be lion yellow, red, reddish brown or sandy, including shades between them. The long, profuse coat ranges from medium-soft to coarse and has a substantial undercoat. It may be straight or slightly wavy. Males in particular may develop a marked mane over the neck and chest, while the legs and hindquarters carry longer feathering.

Give the coat a thorough groom at least once a week and more often when the undercoat is coming away. Brush it section by section all the way to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, under the chin, between the front legs, through the breeches and along the tail. Mats can quickly grow in such a dense coat. After bathing or wet walks, both the skin and thick undercoat need to dry properly.

Leonbergers are not shaped with clippers or trimmed like a clipped breed. Hair on and beneath the feet can be tidied, and an occasional long hair around the ears may be neatened if necessary. Bathing should reflect the individual coat, activity and level of dirt; no fixed timetable suits every dog. Anyone hoping for an almost hair-free home should choose another breed.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for an agreeable, biddable and fearless companion with confidence, moderate liveliness and a good capacity to learn and remember. That is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every Leonberger. The Swedish breed club’s breeding strategy therefore stresses the importance of reading the full behavioural assessment, with particular attention to fear and aggression.

Leonbergers are closely associated with family life and friendliness towards children. Marked friendliness to children is part of the breed standard, but adults must still manage every interaction. A large adolescent can knock a child over without meaning any harm, and the dog should always have a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children need to learn to leave the dog alone when it is eating, sleeping or moving away.

Compatibility with other dogs, cats and small pets depends on the individual, its past experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees a low prey drive or automatic tolerance. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free areas and escape routes, keep the dog under control and make meetings short and calm. Prevent chasing, and do not leave the animals together unsupervised until their behaviour is stable and predictable.

Some guarding instinct may be present, but the Leonberger is not intended to be a sharp guard dog. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, sudden noises, unfamiliar places and handling. This tells you more about future daily life than labels such as “gentle giant”.

## Training & Exercise

A Leonberger needs practical training from the first day, especially loose-lead walking, recall, cooperative handling and greeting people with all four feet on the ground. What looks charming in a small puppy can become a safety problem in an adult giant. Reward-based training gives the dog clear choices and should be the first option; harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary.

Exercise should build a capable body rather than follow a rigid time formula. There is no scientific evidence behind the familiar “five minutes per month of age” rule. Short walks, free play at the puppy’s own pace, gentle exposure to new environments and simple training all work well, interspersed with plenty of sleep. Stop when the puppy tires, loses coordination or begins to lag behind. Increase one thing at a time, and notice how the dog moves and recovers later that day and the following morning.

Avoid long distances at a pace set by the handler, as well as repeated jumping, hard stops and running beside a bicycle while the dog is growing. This does not mean keeping a puppy still. Varied movement at its own pace and gradually longer walks develop body awareness and confidence.

A healthy adult Leonberger benefits from daily walks and tasks that engage the mind. Scent work, tracking, everyday obedience and unhurried outings are often practical choices. Judge the right level by the dog’s fitness, the surface, the weather and recovery, not by a generic number of minutes. A dog that becomes stiff, reluctant or unusually tired needs a lighter workload and, if signs persist, a veterinary assessment.

## Health

The Leonberger’s size makes health and longevity important questions before a puppy is bought. In a British study published in 2024, median life expectancy was 10.0 years among 676 Leonbergers. That is a population estimate, not a forecast for an individual dog or a Swedish litter. Also ask about ages and causes of death among the parents, grandparents and previous offspring.

In Sweden, the Leonberger has a health programme under which both breeding dogs must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating for their puppies to be eligible for SKK registration. For this breed, radiographs are taken no earlier than 18 months. This must not be confused with the current RAS from the Svenska Leonbergerklubben, which is advisory and goes further. It recommends, among other things, a litter HD index of at least 100, not breeding from dogs graded HD D–E or ED 2–3, eye examination before first breeding and known behavioural status.

Ask the breeder to show the official result records and explain both parents’ results and the proposed pairing. Useful records include:

- official HD status, preferably an ED result as well, and current HD/ED indices;
- eye examination results and the complete record from BPH or another behavioural assessment;
- DNA results for LPN1, LPN2, LPPN3 and LEMP, interpreted correctly for each variant;
- known heart disease, tumours, neurological signs and early deaths among close relatives.

The LPN variants and LEMP are neurological diseases that can affect movement, muscle, coordination and sometimes breathing. The tests are not interchangeable and their inheritance differs: LPN2, for example, is dominant, while LPPN3 and LEMP are managed as recessive variants. Do not settle for “DNA tested”; ask to see the exact test and result and how the pairing follows current breed-club guidance.

The Leonberger is large and deep-chested, a body shape associated with an increased risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus. Unproductive retching, a rapidly swelling abdomen, restlessness, panting and difficulty lying down are emergency warning signs. Contact a vet immediately and set off for the clinic; do not wait to see whether the signs pass.

## History & Origins

The Leonberger was developed in southern Germany during the nineteenth century and takes its name from the town of Leonberg near Stuttgart. According to the FCI breed standard, town councillor Heinrich Essig crossed a black-and-white Newfoundland bitch with a dog from the hospice at the Great St Bernard Pass and later added a Pyrenean Mountain Dog. He aimed to create a large dog with a lion-like appearance, reflecting the lion on the town’s coat of arms.

The first dogs genuinely called Leonbergers were born in 1846. By the end of the nineteenth century, the breed was kept as a farm dog in Baden-Württemberg, where its guarding and draught abilities were valued. Breeding numbers fell sharply during both World Wars and the post-war years, but the population was rebuilt. The FCI gave the breed definitive recognition in 1955, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1979.

Today the Leonberger is principally a companion and family dog. Its history helps explain the size, weather-resistant coat and some watchfulness, but it does not predict how a particular dog will perform in work, water or family life.

## Living with the Breed

A Leonberger is best suited to someone who genuinely wants to share daily life with a very large dog and can make space, coat care, transport, training and healthcare costs work in practice. A garden is convenient but never replaces walks and company. Flat living can work if the dog has room to lie down and turn comfortably, but check the lift or stairs, noise from communal areas and neighbours, access to a cool resting place, and how an ill or injured dog would be transported.

A large car or another safe transport arrangement is often necessary. Beds, gates, harnesses and other equipment must cope with the dog’s size, while food, insurance and veterinary care will usually cost more than for a small dog. Plan who could safely handle the dog if you become ill or need to travel.

Time alone should be taught gradually and adjusted to the individual dog’s response. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, with puppies and older dogs going out more often. This describes how frequently a dog should be allowed outside, not how long every Leonberger is comfortable alone. Record brief practice sessions and take a step back if the dog paces, pants, barks persistently or cannot settle.

This is a poor choice for anyone wanting minimal shedding, low running costs or the option to postpone training until a problem appears. It can be a good fit for someone who values close cooperation, has time for early everyday training and is willing to adapt activity throughout the dog’s life. Meet several adult Leonbergers and ask about difficulties as well as strengths before deciding.

Leonberger

Leonberger Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Leonberger Club

German Leonberger Club

Societé Centrale Canine (France)

Large, strongly built “gentle giant” with lion‑coloured, water‑resistant double coat and black mask. Typically calm, devoted, and very good with children and other pets when well socialised. Needs regular exercise, kind training, thorough grooming, and careful health management.

Uppfödare av Chihuahua och Leonberger. 
Våra hundar är först och främst familjemedlemmar, valparna växer upp i vardagsrummet registrerade i SKK, besiktade etc enligt konstens alla regler. 
Kenneln ligger i Stockholms skärgård.

Radiant Star's

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Myggebos Pom’s föder upp den fantastiska rasen Pomeranian i liten skala i hemmiljö. Hemma hos oss har vi två tikar, Meja 4 år och Lexi 2 år. Dem är i första hand våra älskade familjemedlemmar. 
Mitt mål är att föda upp sunda, friska, sociala och trevliga pommar för framförallt sällskap. Våra hundar lever tillsammans med Ragdolls som vi också har uppfödning av i lite större skala. Våra valpar är vid flytt välhanterade, vana vid katter och även barn.

Myggebos Pom’s

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Moonzand är en uppfödare av rasen Golden retriever med bas i Vallentuna i Sverige.

Moonzand

## Quick Facts

The Papillon is a small, lively and quick-learning companion dog that often suits someone who wants to combine closeness with walks, training and everyday enrichment. The breed belongs to the Épagneul Nain Continental, or Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon has erect ears, while the Phalène variety has drop ears. In Sweden they are registered according to ear carriage, and a dog can be re-registered if its ears develop differently from the initial assessment.

- **Origin:** France and Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Height at the withers:** about 28 cm according to the breed standard
- **Weight:** the standard has two weight classes. The larger ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 kg for males and up to 5 kg for females. The other covers dogs under 2.5 kg, with 1.5 kg as the minimum weight.
- **Coat:** long, silky and without an undercoat
- **Activity level:** small in stature but often lively, willing to work and keen to learn
- **Longevity:** many reach an advanced age; according to the Swedish Kennel Club, 15 years is not unusual

Measurements in a breed standard describe an ideal, not a promise that every adult dog will be exactly that size. For a prospective owner, the parents’ size, the dog’s body condition and sound construction are therefore more useful than pursuing a particular figure or an extremely small individual.

## Appearance & Coat

The Papillon should be a harmoniously built toy dog that is graceful yet robust. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, light and elegant. Its small size calls for care around falls and play with much larger dogs, but the breed standard does not describe the Papillon as a fragile dog.

The large ears are the breed’s most distinctive feature. In the Papillon they stand erect and are carried obliquely outwards, resembling a butterfly’s wings. The Phalène instead has mobile drop ears. The difference is therefore ear carriage; both are varieties of the same Continental Toy Spaniel and can be born in the same litter.

The coat is single, without an undercoat, and should be abundant, glossy and slightly wavy rather than curly. It is short on the head and fronts of the legs but longer over the body, ears, chest, thighs and tail. White is the ground colour and must predominate on the body and legs. Coloured patches may be of different colours, while the lips, eye rims and nose should be well pigmented under the standard.

Coat care is usually manageable if tangles are prevented. Check the coat regularly and comb especially behind the ears and on the inner thighs, where the Swedish Kennel Club says tangles may readily form. Bathe the dog when it is dirty; no fixed calendar suits every individual. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. Base care on the dog’s actual coat and daily life rather than a fixed bathing or clipping routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Papillon is typically alert, lively and quick to learn, with a marked interest in people and activities. Its small body often contains more willingness to work than the label “lapdog” suggests. A Papillon may enjoy both close company and tasks involving concentration, problem-solving or body awareness.

Breed descriptions should not, however, be read as a guarantee of a particular personality. The Swedish Kennel Club’s BPH behavioural analysis shows considerable variation among participating Papillons, including how intensely they greet strangers, how readily they play and how curious they are. The results apply to the dogs assessed and primarily show why the individual, family lines, early experiences and continuing training all matter.

Alertness may show in how quickly the dog notices sounds, visitors and movement outside the home. This need not become a major barking problem, but it is sensible to reward calm behaviour from the start, give the dog an alternative task at the door and avoid allowing every signal to lead to excitement. Ask the breeder how the parents function in daily life, not only how they behave at shows or during training.

## Training & Exercise

The Papillon needs physical movement and mental enrichment every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy, fit adult can often join surprisingly substantial walks, while a puppy, older dog or individual with a health problem needs a different load. Adjust activity to age, fitness, weather and recovery rather than treating body size as a measure of need.

The breed often learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training with clear criteria works well. Vary everyday obedience, scent work, balance exercises and small problem-solving tasks, and finish while the dog can still concentrate. Agility, obedience and other dog sports can be a good fit when training is developed gradually and the surface, obstacles and load are adapted to the dog’s size and maturity.

A small dog needs the same care with recall and exposure to different environments as a large one. Practise engagement and returning in safe places before allowing freedom where traffic, wildlife or larger dogs could present a risk. Also teach the dog to settle between activities. A Papillon given only high-energy tasks may become very good at getting excited but less skilled at relaxing again.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Papillon as a generally sound and often long-lived breed, but responsible health screening remains important. For Swedish litters, pap-PRA1 is the clearest formal checkpoint. Pap-PRA1 is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, which damages the retina. It is autosomal recessive: a carrier has one copy of the variant and does not develop that particular form, while a genetically affected dog has inherited the variant from both parents.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result for pap-PRA1 or to be recorded as hereditarily clear. Two carriers may not be mated, and an affected dog may not be used for breeding. A pap-PRA1 DNA test does not, however, rule out every other genetic cause of PRA or other eye diseases. An eye examination therefore serves a different purpose. The Swedish breed club, Papillon-Ringen, recommends an eye examination after three years of age to monitor other eye changes.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known normal patella result before mating. This is an important recommendation, but the current Swedish Kennel Club rules do not list patella status as a specific registration requirement for the Papillon. Ask to see the result rather than assuming registration itself covers it.

In other countries, recommended programmes may include additional tests. For example, the UK’s Royal Kennel Club lists an NAD test among the additional checks for the Papillon. This does not make NAD a Swedish registration requirement. Ask the breeder to distinguish between mandatory Swedish results, breed-club recommendations and optional additional tests.

Oral health also deserves attention. Small dog breeds are more often affected by periodontal disease, and daily tooth brushing is a simple way to reduce the risk of severe tartar and painful periodontitis. Bad breath, bleeding gums or reluctance to chew should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Papillon originates from France and Belgium and is the erect-eared variety of the Continental Toy Spaniel. The type has been documented since the 16th century and appeared as a companion dog at European courts. The name Papillon means butterfly in French and refers to the large, obliquely carried ears with long fringes. Phalène means moth and is the name used for the drop-eared variety.

The FCI recognises the breed as number 77 in the companion and toy dog group. The modern standard retains both the Papillon and the Phalène. Its history explains the breed’s role as a companion, but the modern Papillon is not merely decorative: its liveliness and readiness to learn are evident in many present-day dog activities.

## Living with the Breed

The Papillon can live well in either a flat or a house when given daily activity, closeness and help learning to settle. The size of the home matters less than the shape of everyday life. A home where many sounds carry requires extra work on calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows, as an alert individual may otherwise begin to comment on every change.

The breed can live well with children, but this depends on the dog’s temperament, the child’s behaviour and adult supervision. Teach children to leave the dog undisturbed while it sleeps or eats, not to pick it up or grab it, and to play at floor level under supervision. This protects both dog and child and is more accurate than a general “child-friendly” label.

The same individual assessment is needed with other animals. A Papillon can live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Give the animals separate resources and places to retreat, and supervise play where there is a large difference in size. A friendly large dog can injure a very small dog accidentally.

Being left alone is a skill, not something that can be assumed from breed. Accustom the dog gradually to short periods alone and increase them only while it remains relaxed. Barking, whining, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing a normally valued reward can indicate that the step was too large.

Before buying a puppy, check more than its appearance. Ask to see the parents’ registered pap-PRA1 results, patella status and any eye results, and ask why that particular mating was chosen. Meet the dam and notice how the dogs recover after new sounds and visitors. For a puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, you should receive the registration certificate, the Swedish Kennel Club contract and a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old on the day of handover. Screening reduces risk but can never guarantee a particular state of health or personality; open documentation and realistic expectations therefore matter more than promises.

Papillon

Papillon Breed Club UK

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Papillon is a small, elegant toy dog with large butterfly-like ears, a fine, silky parti-coloured coat and a plumed tail. Lively, intelligent and highly trainable, it enjoys activity and mental stimulation, makes an alert watchdog, needs regular brushing, and often lives into the mid–late teens.

Effects of är en uppfödare av rasen Papillon med bas i Stockholm i Sverige. Verksamhetens historia med papillon går tillbaka till 2024.

Effects of

Sweetpapp's är en uppfödare av rasen Papillon med bas i Bro i Sverige.

Sweetpapp's

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Norwegian Kennel Club

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Karamellgårdens kennel finns i Herräng, Norrtälje kommun. Här föder vi upp labradorvalpar med hjärtat, med skogen inpå knuten och Singöfjärden runt hörnet. 
Vi gör alla sedvanliga hälsotester för labrador och även DNA-tester för att säkerställa att vi inte säljer valpar som bär på t ex EIC, HNPK eller PRA.

Karamellgårdens

Vi är en liten familjekennel som håller till utanför Falun och norr om Stockholm. Hundarna är en del av familjen och följer med oss på olika aktiviteter. Hundsporter av olika slag passar vår livsstil och ger hundar som är friska och glada. Läs mer om oss: solrunanskennel.blogspot.com

Solrunans

Topgrade är en uppfödare av rasen Labrador retriever med bas i Sorunda i Sverige. Uppfödningen har en tydlig jaktinriktning, och hundarna används i praktisk jakt under höstarna.

Topgrade

## Quick Facts

The Dutch Schapendoes is a lightly built Dutch herding dog that combines enthusiasm for work, speed and independence with deep affection for people it knows. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and stay active with their dog and who has time for a long coat, particularly while a young dog is changing coat.

- **Breed group:** Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Origin:** The Netherlands
- **Original purpose:** Herding sheep
- **Height at the withers:** Dogs 43–50 cm, bitches 40–47 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not give a fixed weight range
- **Coat:** Long, dense double coat with a fine, dry and lightly waved texture
- **Activity level:** An energetic herding dog that needs both exercise and purposeful tasks

The breed is often called simply the Schapendoes. Beneath the shaggy coat is an agile working dog that should be able to gallop, jump and turn quickly.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dutch Schapendoes should be lightly built and slightly longer than tall. Its movement should be free and springy. The profuse coat makes the dog look larger than its body really is.

Dogs should stand 43–50 cm at the withers and bitches 40–47 cm. The standard gives no ideal weight; height, light construction, muscle and body condition are better guides than a general range in kilograms.

The tail is long and profusely coated, but it should not always be carried in the same position. It hangs down at rest. At the trot it may be carried fairly high and swing gently from side to side, while at the gallop it is stretched out and acts as a rudder when the dog jumps. An alert dog may raise its tail, but it should not be carried stiffly over the back.

The coat has a dense undercoat and long outer hair, measuring at least 7 cm over the hindquarters. The hair should be fine, dry and lightly waved, standing out in tufts. A distinctly curly, frizzy or silky coat does not meet the standard. The abundant topknot, moustache and beard create the characteristic expression.

All colours are accepted, although the standard gives preference to blue-grey through to black.

Coat care changes as the dog grows. The puppy coat can be relatively straightforward, while the transition to the adult coat often produces a softer mixed coat that mats more readily. The adult coat develops gradually and may not be complete until roughly two to three years of age. During the transition, some dogs need combing far more often than a mature adult.

A thorough grooming session about once a week is a sensible starting point, but the condition of the coat should decide. Work in small sections and check with a comb right down to the skin, particularly behind the ears, through the beard and ruff, under the front legs, on the belly and around the hindquarters. If the comb does not pass through without resistance, the coat needs attention.

The coat can collect gravel, twigs, seeds, mud and snow. Undercoat also comes loose periodically, even if hair does not always land on the floor in the same way as it does with a short-coated dog. This does not make the breed allergy-friendly. Dog allergy is caused mainly by allergens from skin and saliva, and no breed can be guaranteed safe for someone with an allergy.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Schapendoes as attentive, courageous, intelligent, watchful, cheerful, lively and friendly. It should be affectionate and loyal towards people it knows. Its herding background often shows in how quickly it notices movement and changes around it.

This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, based on older behavioural assessments up to and including 2015, noted flight and fear responses to sounds and surprises and a reluctance among some dogs to investigate what had frightened them. The evidence is limited and historical, but makes confidence and recovery important questions. Ask the breeder for concrete examples of how the parents and close relatives respond to strangers, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and ask to see BPH or MH behavioural assessment results where available.

Watchfulness may mean that the dog announces a visitor or a change outside the home. Teach early that a brief alert should be followed by calm behaviour. Block access to a window if watching it triggers barking, reward quiet behaviour and teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door.

A Schapendoes can live happily with children when the dog is secure and an adult guides the interaction. Children should not pull the coat, disturb a resting dog or play with it without supervision. Playfulness and quick movements can also lead to collisions or herding-like circling. With dogs, cats and small pets, the outcome depends on the individual, experience and introduction; a herding background does not guarantee trouble-free relationships.

## Training & Exercise

The Dutch Schapendoes needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day, but no fixed number of hours suits every dog. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and the ability to settle. Balance walks, opportunities to sniff and tasks requiring concentration with undisturbed rest.

The breed may enjoy agility, rally obedience, obedience, heelwork to music, scent work, tracking, wounded-game tracking and herding. Competition is not essential, but the dog benefits from tasks that combine quick decisions, body control and co-operation. Fast-paced exercise should be balanced with calm and rest.

Independent work was part of the breed's original function. In training, this may appear as taking the initiative or losing interest in repetitive exercises. Keep sessions short, vary rewards and increase difficulty gradually. Reward-based training provides clear information without fear or pain.

Early priorities include:

- recall and engagement around movement, people and other dogs
- settling quietly by doors and windows and around sounds in shared hallways
- walking on a loose lead and passing distractions without trying to herd or rush into play
- relaxed handling of the coat, ears, paws, mouth and whole body
- body awareness before high jumps and demanding agility work
- a clear cue that means activity has ended and it is time to rest

Puppies and young dogs should not be trained like mature canine athletes. Develop balance and co-ordination through varied movement and avoid repeated high-impact work until the body is mature.

## Health

Ask to see current eye and gPRA results, together with any available information about hips, elbows and temperament. Check the identity of each dog and the dates of the examinations.

gPRA is a form of progressive retinal atrophy linked in the Schapendoes to a mutation in the CCDC66 gene. The disease gradually damages the retina's light-sensitive cells and may cause night blindness, progressive loss of sight and ultimately blindness. A direct DNA test is available for the breed-specific mutation.

The DNA test shows whether the dog is genetically clear, a carrier or has two copies of the disease variant:

- A genetically clear dog does not have the tested disease variant.
- A carrier has one copy. It should not be confused with a dog that has two copies, but can pass the variant to its offspring.
- A dog with two copies is at risk of developing the tested form of gPRA.

Inheritance is simple autosomal recessive. A known carrier should therefore only be mated to a dog that is genetically clear or documented as clear by parentage. Puppies from such a mating cannot inherit two copies of this particular tested variant, although some may be carriers. What matters is that the combination is safe and the results can be verified.

The DNA test and a clinical eye examination answer different questions. The DNA test concerns the known CCDC66 variant, while an eye examination can detect visible changes present at the time. A clear DNA result therefore does not rule out every possible eye disorder, and an eye examination with no findings does not reveal the dog's genetic gPRA status.

The published Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, revised in 2016, specifies gPRA testing and eye examinations for breeding dogs and also recommends hip and elbow assessment. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 contain no breed-specific requirement for hip or elbow assessment, eye examination or gPRA testing before a Schapendoes litter can be registered. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically have parents with these results. The Kennel Club's general rule for serious conditions with simple recessive inheritance still applies when a DNA result is known: a carrier may only be paired with a clear dog, and a dog with two copies of the disease variant must not be used for breeding.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the gPRA result for each parent or documentation that it is clear by parentage
- current eye examination reports with the complete assessment
- official hip and elbow results where the dogs have been assessed
- information about sight, joints, mobility and fears in older close relatives

## History & Origins

The Dutch Schapendoes developed as a herding dog in the Netherlands and was found wherever there were heathlands, shepherds and flocks of sheep in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The dogs needed stamina, mobility, speed and the ability to make decisions at a distance from the shepherd.

P. M. C. Toepoel is regarded as the founder of the breed. Between 1940 and 1945, dogs of the nearly vanished type were collected for further breeding. The Dutch breed club was formed in 1947, the Raad van Beheer granted provisional recognition in 1952, and a standard was drawn up and a stud book opened in 1954.

The year 1971 appears in the standard's historical summary as the breed's final recognition. The FCI's own breed register, however, gives 17 May 1991 as the date of definitive FCI recognition. The year 1971 should therefore not be described as the date of definitive FCI recognition without explanation. The current official standard was approved by the FCI in 1992 and published in 1999.

The standard places the Schapendoes among long-haired European herding breeds including the Bearded Collie, Puli, Polish Lowland Sheepdog, Old English Sheepdog, Briard and Bergamasco. This describes a broad historical relationship, not a recent cross between these breeds.

## Living with the Breed

A Schapendoes can live in a flat or a house if it receives activity, rest and training around everyday sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, people in the hallway, lift doors and movement outside the window must become ordinary events rather than reasons for a prolonged alarm. A garden does not replace walks or shared activities.

Expect the coat to bring the outdoors inside. After a woodland walk, you may need to remove twigs and seeds, tease out damp sections and check the paws and skin. Coat care during the adolescent change can take considerably longer than it does with a mature adult. Teach the puppy to accept systematic grooming on a non-slip surface.

The breed likes to stay close to its family, so time alone should be introduced in small steps once the dog feels secure and has had an opportunity to exercise and toilet. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog can rest. Persistent barking, pacing, panting or destructive behaviour means that the step was too difficult, not that the dog needs to be left for longer to “get used to it”.

The Dutch Schapendoes suits someone who wants a quick, cheerful and engaged training companion and appreciates a dog that takes initiative. It is less suitable if a very low need for activity, minimal coat care or a dog that is automatically quiet and confident everywhere is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of verified gPRA and eye results, open information about joints and temperament, and the way the adult dogs behave in everyday life.

Dutch Schapendoes

Dutch Schapendoes Club of the Netherlands

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Deutsche Kynologische Gesellschaft (Germany)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Dutch Schapendoes is a medium, shaggy-coated Dutch herding dog, lively and agile with a bouncy gait. Cheerful, people-oriented and playful, it suits active families. Intelligent but independent, it needs positive training, regular mental exercise and frequent grooming.

Liten uppfödning precis i uppstart. Vi kommer bara ha någon kull per år, bättre med kvalite och friska individer än kvantitet.

Casaschappe

## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Andros är en uppfödare av rasen Rottweiler med bas i Rimbo i Sverige. Mellan 1986 och 2020 omfattade uppfödningen 20 kullar med sammanlagt 143 valpar.

Andros

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Månlilja är en uppfödare av rasen Cocker spaniel med bas i Huddinge i Sverige.

Månlilja

Vi bor ett par mil söder om Stockholm i lantlig miljö där våra hundar kan springa fritt i skog och mark. Hemma hos oss har hundarna en central roll och vi delar många glädjefulla och minnesvärda stunder tillsammans, – något vi är otroligt glada och tacksamma för. 

Beslutet att starta kennel grundar sig framförallt i att det är en alldeles fantastisk ras på alla sätt och vis. Hundarna förgyller verkligen vår tillvaro och den lyckan vill vi sprida till våra härliga valpköpare.

Paws By Knightwing

## Quick Facts

- The Samoyed is a medium-sized Arctic spitz from northern Russia and Siberia. It is still built and temperamentally suited to an active life of sustained work.
- The breed standard defines its purpose as a sled and companion dog. This is therefore not simply a white family pet, but a working polar breed that needs to use its body.
- An adult male weighs about 20–25 kg and a female 16–20 kg. The ideal height is 57 cm for males and 53 cm for females, with a tolerance of three centimetres either way.
- The abundant double coat sheds heavily. Regular grooming, with extra work during a moult, is part of everyday ownership.
- The typical temperament is friendly, open, alert and lively. The breed is also independent, and prey interest, responsiveness and noise can vary considerably between individuals and lines.
- The Samoyed is best suited to someone who wants an active life throughout the year and has time for training, coat care and a dog that takes part in daily life.

## Appearance & Coat

The Samoyed should be an agile, enduring Arctic spitz, athletic rather than heavy. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, the ears are erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is alert. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 57 cm for males and 53 cm for females, in both cases with a tolerance of three centimetres. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs 20–25 kg and a female 16–20 kg.

The so-called “Samoyed smile” comes from the almond-shaped eyes and slightly upturned corners of the mouth. It describes the breed’s expression; it does not promise a particular personality, nor is it a documented mechanism for preventing drool or ice.

The coat has a short, soft, dense undercoat and longer, straighter, coarser guard hairs. Males often have a more pronounced ruff, while a female’s coat is often slightly shorter and softer. Permitted colours are pure white, cream, and white with a small amount of biscuit marking.

Let the condition of the coat determine the grooming routine instead of following a rigid weekly timetable. Work through it to the skin, paying particular attention to places where moisture and loose hair can remain trapped. Grooming needs to be more frequent and thorough during a moult. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it and dry the entire coat properly afterwards so that moisture is not left next to the skin. The coat should not normally be clipped or shaved to make routine care easier; discuss any medically necessary clipping with a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Samoyed is friendly, outgoing with people, alert and lively. The breed standard describes it as highly social and unsuitable as a guard dog. This does not mean that every dog greets people in the same way or that the breed name guarantees confidence in every setting. Breeding, early experiences, training and the individual dog’s disposition all matter.

Swedish breeding goals call for dogs that are approachable, outgoing and at ease with both people and other dogs. BPH behaviour-assessment results from 2015–2025 broadly follow that desired profile. They do not, however, predict how an individual puppy will develop. Look at the parents and close relatives in ordinary life rather than relying only on a breed description or an average.

Independence is part of the way this breed works. A Samoyed should be able to take initiative, remain focused on a physical task and work without being excessively dependent on its handler. In daily life, the same traits can appear as persistence, ideas of its own and a dog that does not always choose to follow you. Training is easier when the task is clear, the reward is worthwhile and repetition is kept purposeful.

Prey interest must also be assessed dog by dog. The breed standard describes the hunting instinct as only weakly developed, while the Swedish Kennel Club’s current buyer guidance warns that a strong hunting instinct may still occur. Do not assume that a Samoyed will be safe off lead simply because of its breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Samoyed needs regular physical activity and generally thrives when some of it has a clear purpose. Work in harness, hiking, carrying a pack and other endurance activities are close to the breed’s intended function. Scent work, everyday training and problem-solving add variety, but they do not replace the opportunity to move and work physically.

As a common starting point for an adult, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests at least an hour’s walk every day plus physical training three or four times a week. Treat this as a guide, not an exact dose. Age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and intensity determine what is appropriate. Puppies and adolescents should build muscle and workload gradually rather than follow an adult dog’s programme.

The dog can learn two separate rules: to lean into the working harness and pull on cue, and to walk on a loose everyday lead. Use equipment made for the activity, teach clear starting cues and increase distance, speed and load gradually. An official polar-dog working merit shows that the dog has completed defined work under the test conditions. It provides useful evidence of function, but it does not prove that the dog is free from joint disease, heart disease or fear in ordinary life.

In warm weather, adjust the workload to the conditions and to that individual dog’s response. Schedule harder sessions for cooler parts of the day, choose a suitable surface, provide water and stop if the dog is not recovering normally. A universal temperature cut-off is misleading because humidity, sun, speed, fitness and the individual dog all affect heat load.

Start recall training early, but never overestimate it. A long line or enclosed space gives the dog room to move when the surroundings are too difficult for safe off-lead exercise. This is particularly important if the dog shows prey interest or is inclined to choose its own route.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, or HD, occurs in the Samoyed. In the breed’s new Swedish breeding strategy, about 20–25 per cent of screened dogs born from 2019 to 2024 received C, D or E results. The figure applies to examined dogs and cannot simply be treated as the rate in the whole population, but hip results are well worth checking when choosing a puppy.

For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official HD result before mating. The Samoyed is also covered by the Swedish HD index scheme: an average parental index above 100 is recommended, and dogs with D or E results may not be used for breeding. The position is therefore more nuanced than the claim that only A- and B-graded dogs can be included in a mating. Check both parents’ results, their index at the time of mating, and results among siblings and previous offspring in SKK Avelsdata.

The breed club also recommends an eye examination from 18 months of age, with no abnormality or only a finding classed as non-hereditary. The current breeding strategy shows that only a small proportion of Samoyeds were eye examined in 2021–2024. Ask for the actual registered result rather than accepting a general assurance that the line has good eye health.

Diabetes mellitus also deserves attention. A large Swedish insurance study and later Norwegian research both placed the Samoyed among the breeds at highest risk. These studies describe risk at breed level and cannot predict whether a particular puppy will become ill. Ask about diagnoses in close relatives and discuss changes in the dog’s health promptly with a vet.

## History & Origins

The Samoyed comes from northern Russia and Siberia and takes its name from the Samoyedic peoples. In different areas, the dogs were used for hunting, hauling and, later, reindeer herding. They lived closely with people and, according to the breed standard, also helped keep them warm inside their shelters. The modern breed’s official purposes are sled work and companionship.

The small number of dogs brought from Siberia to Western Europe, together with dogs acquired by research expeditions, became the foundation of the Western population. The first Samoyed was registered by the Swedish Kennel Club in 1893. A Swedish-Norwegian standard for the Nordic spitz was published in 1908, and the first English Samoyed breed standard was written in 1909.

This history explains why modern breeding is about more than a white coat and a friendly expression. The Swedish Polar Dog Club works to preserve the breed’s polar traits and practical ability as a sled dog. Anyone choosing a Samoyed should therefore be interested in its function, not only its appearance.

## Living with the Breed

A Samoyed can live in a flat if its needs are properly met outside the home. The size of the property matters less than access to daily activity, recovery and regular time outdoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, find out how vocal the puppy’s close relatives are at home and work on calm behaviour early, because a noisy individual can quickly affect neighbours.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short, calm absences once the puppy feels secure in the home, and increase them only when it can settle. Some dogs learn quickly; others need much more time. Do not plan a puppy purchase on the assumption that your Samoyed will automatically cope with being left for a full working day.

The same safety principles apply with children as with any dog: an adult should be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The breed’s social ideal is encouraging, but a breed label is no substitute for supervision and respectful handling. Take the same care with cats and other animals. Ask how the parents behave, manage introductions carefully, and base decisions on the individual dog’s prey interest and previous experience.

The coat makes its presence felt in daily life. You need to accept loose hair, set aside time for grooming and be able to dry a wet coat thoroughly. The Samoyed is not allergy-free: dog allergens are found mainly in saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should not make a decision based on claims about a white coat, little odour or low shedding.

Check the evidence behind a breeder’s general claims of quality. Look up the parents’ HD status and current index, eye results, BPH assessments and any working merits. Ask how close relatives have performed in harness, behaved around other dogs, settled at home, coped with time alone and managed in warm conditions. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how to groom an adult coat. A working merit records tested function, BPH records observed responses, and health registers show known results. Together they provide a better basis for a decision, but no single record guarantees how a puppy will turn out.

Samoyed

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Svenska Polarhundklubben (Swedish Polar Dog Club)

Deutscher Club für Nordische Hunde e.V.

Medium, strong Arctic spitz bred by the Samoyede people to herd reindeer, pull sleds, and share family tents. Noted for its “Samoyed smile” and heavy, low‑odor double coat. Social, energetic, vocal, and intelligent, it needs close companionship, firm positive training, and ample exercise.

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