## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Liten uppfödning i hemmiljö med sunda mopsar.

P’zazz

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Vi är en kennel som finns i Södertälje.
Kenneln grundades 2020 och vi föder upp den underbara rasen tax normalstor långhår.
Vi har ca 1-2 kullar om året.
Vår målsättning är att vi får fram mentalt bra valpar och en härlig extriör.

Hos oss har ni suport livet ut,vi finns alltid tillgängliga för våra valpköpare.

Fyrstjärnans

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Limelight Kennels är en uppfödare av rasen Jack russell terrier med bas i Knivsta i Sverige. Under perioden 2012–2019 ingick BPH-beskrivna avkommor från uppfödningen i rasens BPH-analys.

Limelight Kennels

## Quick Facts

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is a small, lively companion dog that usually wants to stay close to its people. The breed can suit a first-time owner or a family prepared to train regularly, but it is not an effortless choice simply because it is small. The coat needs consistent care, time alone must be introduced gradually, and the individual dog's temperament matters more than broad descriptions of the breed.

- The breed is recognised nationally by the Nordic kennel clubs and is placed in Group 9, but it is not recognised by the FCI.
- The desired maximum height at the withers is 26 cm, and the ideal weight is 3–4 kg.
- The coat is long, dense, and curly or wavy. It often sheds relatively little, but that does not make the breed allergy-free.
- The breed standard calls for an affectionate, lively and cheerful dog. Swedish behavioural evidence is too limited, however, to make firm promises about every individual.
- A puppy buyer should check recorded results for patellae, eyes and prcd-PRA, while also asking how the parents behave in everyday situations.

## Appearance & Coat

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka should be small and compact, with a body that is slightly longer than the height at the withers. Under the standard, body length may be no more than 15 per cent greater than height. The abundant coat can make the dog look rounder than it is, so body condition and structure need to be assessed by touch as well as by sight.

The coat should be long, dense and moderately thick, with large curls or waves. There may be a moderate undercoat, or none at all. All colours are permitted except solid white, spotted or parti-colour, and merle. A very small, barely visible white mark may occur on the chin, throat, forechest or toes. Larger white areas are therefore not part of the accepted colour pattern.

The coat needs to be combed through regularly, right down towards the skin. Long, soft hair tangles most readily where there is friction, including the armpits, groin, behind the ears, and beneath a harness or collar. How often the whole coat needs attention depends on its texture and length and on the dog's routine, but vulnerable areas should be checked frequently and small tangles eased out before they tighten into mats. From the start, teach the puppy to accept a comb, paw handling and short pauses on a non-slip surface.

For presentation under the official show standard, the coat must not be clipped or trimmed, apart from neatening the hair on the feet. Hair on the head may be tied up if it falls in front of the eyes. This rule describes how the breed is presented to the standard. In everyday life, the coat still needs care that prevents discomfort around the skin, eyes and feet.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes an affectionate, lively, cheerful and sociable companion. Many people therefore look for a Bolonka that enjoys taking part in family life and is easy to bring along. That is a reasonable aim, but it is no guarantee that every dog will automatically feel confident with strangers, remain quiet in a flat or find every encounter easy.

Evidence from the Swedish population is limited. The current breed-specific breeding strategy drew on just 20 completed BPH behavioural assessments and 139 responses to a health and behaviour survey, among other material. That is not enough for confident conclusions about the whole breed. In the survey, 18.7 per cent of respondents said they were not satisfied with their dog's behaviour, but this is a survey result rather than a reliable estimate for the population. Its main value is to show why a friendly description of the breed cannot replace an assessment of the prospective litter's parents.

Ask the breeder how the parents respond to visitors, unexpected sounds, handling and other dogs, and how readily they settle after activity. BPH results, where available, can add useful observations, but read the full description rather than searching for a single pass mark. Barking and interest in chasing can vary with both the individual and the environment; there is not enough evidence to promise a particular level across the breed.

## Training & Exercise

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka needs daily movement, mental activity and rest, but there is no sound breed-specific formula expressed in minutes. A balanced routine might include walks in varied surroundings, scent work, play and short training sessions. Adjust the duration and difficulty to the dog's age, fitness and recovery. A dog that struggles to settle may need less excitement and more recovery, while one that loses focus and invents its own entertainment may benefit from more purposeful stimulation.

Use reward-based training, progress in small steps and account for the individual dog's motivation. Start early with the skills that make everyday life easier: attention, recall, waiting at a door, walking calmly on a lead, settling in a chosen place, and accepting coat and paw care. Take the puppy out frequently after sleep, food and play, praise it for toileting outside, and do not punish indoor accidents. Reward calm behaviour before the dog becomes worked up and barks at sounds or visitors, while also reducing environmental triggers that keep the behaviour going.

A small body is no reason to carry the dog through every situation. Allow it to move, explore and solve manageable problems on its own feet. Avoid, however, demands that are not suitable for a young or unconditioned dog. The breed is described as trainable and may enjoy activities such as scent work, rally obedience or other sports based on cooperation between dog and handler.

## Health

There is not enough evidence to give a reliable account of the breed's most common health problems in Sweden. When the current breeding strategy was prepared, there were few dogs in the country, the health survey had 139 responses, and no breed-specific insurance statistics were available. There is therefore no sound basis for presenting a long list of conditions as unusually common in this breed. Puppy buyers will get better evidence by examining recorded tests for the parents and close relatives.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella result. This examination records whether the kneecap is stable or can be displaced during a veterinary assessment. The aim is to mate two dogs with no abnormality. Under the recommendation, a dog graded 1 should only be mated to a dog with no abnormality, while dogs graded 2 or above should not be used for breeding.

For eye health, the recommendation is a clear eye examination no more than one year before mating. The club also recommends a recorded DNA result for prcd-PRA: a carrier should be mated to a genetically clear dog, not to another carrier. A prcd-PRA DNA test answers only for the variant being tested. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye changes, so it cannot replace a clinical eye examination.

These are the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules contain no breed-specific condition that makes these particular results compulsory for registering a litter. The distinction matters: a registered puppy may come from a mating that does not follow every club recommendation. Ask to see the original results or check them in the Swedish Kennel Club's dog database, and ask how the breeder has considered the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The breed was developed as a companion dog in the former Soviet Union. The current standard states that breeding began in 1951, using small dogs of unknown origin. This cautious account is more reliable than detailed stories naming particular foundation breeds without firm documentation.

The first breed standard was approved in 1966. Interest and numbers increased during the 1970s and 1980s, and a national breed club was founded in 1999. The standard was revised in 2010 and 2019. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 2006, and the first Swedish litters were born in 2007. Since 2013, the breed has had national recognition and been eligible for shows within the Nordic kennel organisations, despite still lacking FCI recognition.

## Living with the Breed

The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka can live well in a flat if it receives suitable toilet breaks, activity and rest, alongside training to remain calm when it hears sounds in the stairwell or outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the way daily life is organised. Anyone looking for a small dog to fit a sedentary lifestyle should reconsider: the breed's size reduces the space it occupies, not its need for company, movement and learning.

Time alone must be introduced in very small, calm steps. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. Begin when the dog feels secure and has been taken out, step away briefly, and return before it becomes worried. Increase the time only when the dog can rest. Arrange help if the working day requires longer absences than the individual dog can cope with without distress.

Young children need adult supervision around the dog. Such a small dog requires an undisturbed resting place and should not be lifted, carried or pursued by young children. Teach the child to call the dog rather than grabbing it, and allow the dog to walk away. This protects both dog and child and tells you more about a safe home than the label “good with children”.

Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give the cat high escape routes and a dog-free area, prevent chasing, keep the dog on a lead during the first controlled meetings, and reward calm behaviour. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions have remained settled over time. Small pets should always be protected by secure separation.

The breed may shed less than many other dogs, but it is not hypoallergenic. Dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin, and amounts vary even among individuals of the same breed. Low shedding does not show that a dog produces fewer allergens. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore rely on medical advice, not on a promise attached to a particular breed.

Before buying, focus on concrete checks: meet the dam if possible and watch how she recovers from ordinary events, ask for patella, eye and prcd-PRA results, discuss the true workload involved in coat care, and plan for time alone, children or other animals in your own home. This tests whether the individual dog and the way it has been bred suit your life, instead of relying on its small size or an idealised breed description.

Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka

Svenska Kennelklubben (SKK)

Deutscher Verband der Gebrauchshundsportvereine (DVG)

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Small, sturdy Russian toy breed with a long, wavy low‑shedding coat and many colors. Affectionate, people‑oriented and sensitive, it thrives on close companionship and moderate daily exercise. Intelligent and adaptable to apartments, but needs regular grooming and dislikes long solitude.

Linde-Lou's är en uppfödare av rasen Russkaya Tsvetnaya bolonka med bas i Knivsta i Sverige. Uppfödningen har fött upp russkaya tsvetnaya bolonka sedan 2019. Hundar från uppfödningen har ställts ut i flera nordiska länder.

Linde-Lou's

Pekingese

Pékingese Klubben Sverige (Sweden)

Small, solid toy dog once reserved for Chinese royalty, the Pekingese has a lion‑like mane, flat face, and long double coat needing regular grooming. Calm yet proud and independent, it bonds closely with chosen people, needs modest exercise, and serves as an alert, loyal watchdog.

Mister-Casanowa's är en uppfödare av rasen Pekingese med bas i Mariefred i Sverige. Den första Pekingese-kullen föddes i februari 1992.

Mister-Casanowa´s

## Quick Facts

The American Cocker Spaniel is a compact American bird dog and companion with considerable working drive behind its elegant appearance. It is a distinct breed, not a smaller version of the English Cocker Spaniel. The breeds share an origin but have different standards and breeding histories. Even so, you cannot assume that every American Cocker is calmer or has less hunting drive than every English Cocker.

- **Origin:** United States.
- **Classification:** FCI number 167 in Group 8, Retrievers, Flushing Dogs and Water Dogs.
- **Original function:** flushing and retrieving bird dog; the breed standard also lists companion dog.
- **Ideal height at the withers:** about 38 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight.
- **Temperament ideal:** even, confident and cheerful, without shyness.
- **Activity:** needs substantial daily exercise and tasks that engage its nose and cooperation with the handler.
- **Coat care:** demanding, especially when the coat is kept long. A shorter sport trim makes daily care easier but does not remove the need to check the ears, feet and skin.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine companionship with training and accepts regular coat and ear care. It can suit a first-time owner who seeks help when needed, but it is not automatically an easy choice simply because it is relatively small.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Cocker Spaniel should be a strong, balanced and mobile dog in a compact format. The body is slightly longer than tall but should look neither long nor low. The clearly defined head should be in proportion to the body. The eyes should be dark and must not protrude; the expression should be alert and gentle. Movement should be free and efficient, without the abundant coat obscuring the dog's outline.

The standard divides the colours into black, solid colours other than black, and parti-colours. The body coat is medium in length with a protective undercoat. The ears, chest, abdomen and legs carry more feathering. Correct coat is silky and straight or slightly wavy. Excessive coat, a cottony texture or curl is not the goal: the American Cocker Spaniel should still function as a sporting dog.

How often the coat needs combing and clipping depends on its amount, length and texture, as well as the dog's activity and the weather. Part the coat down to the skin and check that a comb passes through without resistance. Tangles readily form around the ears, armpits, groin and feet and under a harness or collar. After walks in woodland, rain or swimming, the coat needs an extra check and thorough drying.

A full show coat requires considerably more work than a shorter sport trim. Ask the breeder to demonstrate the care routine before the puppy comes home. Gradually accustom the puppy to a comb, dryer, clippers, foot handling and standing still for short periods. Grooming then becomes an everyday skill rather than a struggle after the coat has already matted.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is an even, bold and cheerful dog that enjoys working with its person. Many American Cockers seek contact, are playful and learn quickly, but the standard describes a breeding goal—it does not promise the temperament of an individual dog. Genetics, early experiences, health, upbringing and training all have an influence.

The Swedish BPH data are too limited to provide a reliable picture of temperament across the breed: the current breeding strategy reports only 25 assessed dogs in 2015–2023. It is therefore more useful to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other close relatives. Watch how the dogs seek contact, accept handling, respond to something unexpected and settle again. Ask how relatives cope with the kind of daily life you are planning.

Hunting traits vary but can remain. The breed is still described as a flushing and retrieving bird dog, although hunting use is uncommon in Sweden. An American Cocker may therefore suddenly become very interested in a scent or bird. Recall and outdoor engagement need to be trained rather than assumed.

## Training & Exercise

The American Cocker Spaniel needs daily activity, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, environment and the day's other demands determine what is appropriate. A good routine combines walks and free movement in safe places with scent work, retrieving, cooperation and the ability to settle afterwards.

The breed's background offers several natural training routes. Search exercises, tracking human scent, blood tracking, controlled retrieving and tasks in which the dog works close to the handler engage both its nose and its willingness to cooperate. Rally obedience, obedience, agility and freestyle may also suit the individual. Start simply and increase difficulty, duration and physical load only when the dog is recovering well.

Prioritise recall, engagement, calm behaviour around encounters and the ability to leave a scent trail from an early age. Also train everyday skills: examination around the eyes and ears, foot handling, standing on a grooming table and resting despite movement nearby. Short, clear sessions and rewards the dog values help maintain motivation.

More activity is not always the answer to restlessness. A dog that struggles to settle may need clearer recovery time, better-adjusted training or a health check. For a puppy, new environments, body awareness and short tasks should take priority over long, repetitive exercise sessions.

## Health

The ears are the most important health area to plan for, and eye examination is the clear Swedish breeding requirement. The Swedish breeding strategy identifies ear inflammation as the breed's most common health problem. Drop ears, abundant ear hair and a rich coat make it particularly important to be able to see the skin, keep the hair around the ear opening manageable and spot problems early.

Odour, redness, swelling, discharge, tenderness or head shaking are reasons to contact a veterinarian. Recurrent problems should be investigated because there may be an underlying cause. Healthy ears do not, however, need cleaning according to a frequent standard schedule. Nor does the breeding strategy support the claim that American Cockers are generally born with narrow ear canals.

Hereditary eye conditions including cataracts and retinal folds occur, and PRA has been identified in isolated cases. For a litter registered in Sweden, both parents must have an official eye-examination result. The certificate may be no more than one year old, and the result must be valid before mating. The rule requires a current result; it does not mean that every diagnosis must be marked clear. Check the parents' results and dates in the Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata database, and ask the breeder to explain how any findings were assessed for the proposed mating.

A DNA test for prcd-PRA is neither a guarantee against all PRA nor a replacement for an eye examination. In 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club's breeding committee rejected an application for a central level 1 prcd-PRA health programme for the American Cocker Spaniel because it had not been established that confirmed PRA cases in the breed were caused by that particular mutation. Do not confuse the breed's Swedish requirements with testing packages for the English Cocker Spaniel: FN, hip dysplasia screening and patella examination are not formal registration requirements for the American Cocker Spaniel under the current rules.

The Swedish Kennel Club's special judging instructions highlight head shape, eyes and excessive coat. When choosing a puppy, sound proportions, eyes that neither protrude nor water constantly, a correct bite, free movement and a coat that does not hinder the dog matter more than an extreme look. Healthy parents reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The American and English Cocker Spaniels share roots, but the American type developed in the United States and became a distinct breed. Obo II, born in 1882, is commonly identified as an important early dog in its American history. Differences in type became clearer during the first half of the 1900s.

In 1945, the American Kennel Club divided the Cocker Spaniel into American and English Cocker Spaniels. The first American Cockers arrived in Sweden in the 1950s. The FCI lists the United States as the country of origin and places the breed among retrievers, flushing dogs and water dogs. Today's breed is often oriented towards companionship and showing, but the bird-dog function in the standard explains why scent work, searching and retrieving remain relevant activities.

## Living with the Breed

The American Cocker Spaniel can live well in a house or flat when activity, access outdoors, coat care and recovery are properly arranged. In a building where sound carries, training for calm behaviour around noises and a plan for the dog's days are needed; the breed name does not tell you whether an individual will bark a lot or a little.

The breed can live happily with children, dogs and other animals, but the breed alone provides no guarantee. A dog and small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Introductions to other animals should be calm and controlled. Consider the individual's previous experience, resource guarding, play style and interest in chasing, not just a general breed description.

Alone time is taught gradually once the dog feels secure at home. Begin with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Some individuals learn quickly; others need a slower plan. The breed should therefore be described neither as unable to stay alone nor as trouble-free without training.

The following checks are particularly useful before buying a puppy:

- View both parents' official eye results and dates in Avelsdata; check that each result was no more than one year old at mating.
- Ask about recurrent ear, eye and skin problems in the parents and close relatives, not only whether the dogs appear healthy on that particular day.
- Meet the puppy's mother and observe contact, handling, reactions to sound and recovery. Ask about other close relatives if the father is not present.
- Look for free movement, sound head proportions, eyes that do not protrude, water or squint, and a quantity of coat that can be maintained without hindering the dog.
- Ask the breeder to demonstrate coat and ear care, and judge the workload against the coat length you actually intend to keep.
- Describe the daily life and activities you are planning. A breeder who knows their lines should be able to discuss variation rather than promise that every puppy will be the same.

Rules and recommendations can change. Always check the current versions with the Swedish Kennel Club and breed club when buying rather than relying on an old checklist.

American Cocker Spaniel

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

American Cocker Spaniel: a small, sturdy gundog with a silky coat and large, expressive eyes. Cheerful, affectionate, and people‑oriented, it suits active families. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, gentle positive training, and regular, thorough grooming and ear care.

Light&Dark's

## Quick Facts

The Irish Wolfhound is a very large, rough-coated sighthound from Ireland. It combines a sighthound's speed and hunting instinct with a generally friendly nature, but its size affects almost every practical decision, from the car and home to the way a puppy is raised.

- **Breed type:** A sighthound in FCI Group 10, originally used to hunt wolves and other large game.
- **Size:** The standard sets minimums of 79 cm and 54 kg for dogs and 71 cm and 41 kg for bitches. An average height of 81–86 cm is desirable for dogs; there is no stated maximum height or weight.
- **Build:** Powerful and muscular, but not as massive as a Great Dane. It should carry more substance than a Scottish Deerhound without losing the lines and mobility of a sighthound.
- **Temperament:** Usually friendly, affectionate and calm at home. Hunting drive can be strong and varies between individuals.
- **Activity:** Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and safe opportunities to stretch out at speed. The amount should reflect age, fitness and recovery.
- **Coat:** Rough and hard on the body, legs and head, with marked eyebrows and a beard. It needs regular attention but should not be clipped like a soft-coated companion breed.
- **Worth knowing:** The breed has a shorter life expectancy than many smaller dogs. Heart health, early puppy testing for portosystemic shunt and disease in close relatives are important questions before buying.

## Appearance & Coat

An Irish Wolfhound should be large and imposing without looking heavy or clumsy. It has a long body, deep chest, well-muscled limbs and a long, gently curved tail. Movement should be easy and active. It is less massive than a Great Dane, while carrying more weight and power than a Scottish Deerhound.

The size figures are often misunderstood. The standard gives minimum measurements for both sexes and a desirable average of 81–86 cm for dogs, but no official maximum. A bitch's size and the eventual weight of either sex cannot therefore be read as a narrow range. Proportion, strength and sound movement matter more than aiming for the largest possible dog.

The coat should be rough and hard, particularly above the eyes and under the jaw. Permitted colours include grey, brindle, red, black, pure white and fawn, as well as the colours seen in the Scottish Deerhound. Comb and brush as the individual coat requires, tease out tangles and remove dead, untidy hair without stripping away the protective topcoat. Check the beard, ears, feet, nails and skin too. Bathing should be guided by dirt, skin condition and daily life, not a fixed timetable.

## Temperament & Personality

The Irish Wolfhound is generally friendly and people-oriented, but a breed description cannot guarantee the character of every dog. Early socialisation, the parents' temperaments and the dog's own experiences all affect confidence and sociability. Because of its size, even an enthusiastic greeting, play or a sudden pull on the lead calls for good control.

This is a sighthound with a hunting background. A dog that is quiet indoors may react in an instant to a deer, hare or running cat. Off-lead freedom should therefore depend on the individual's proven recall and the surroundings, not on the assumption that a gentle manner means little prey drive. A securely fenced area is often the best place for full-speed running.

Many live happily with other dogs. Life with cats or smaller animals is more individual: a puppy may learn the rules at home without losing its chase response outdoors. Introduce animals calmly, give the cat escape routes and keep physical control of the dog until their behaviour together is predictable.

A steady adult can be gentle and patient with children, but active adult supervision is still essential. The dog's body can knock over a small child unintentionally. Teach children to leave the dog alone while it eats or sleeps and give the dog a resting place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

An Irish Wolfhound needs consistent, kind training that still works when the dog outweighs its handler. Start early with attention, loose-lead walking, recall, handling and calm passage past people, dogs and wildlife. Short, clear sessions and rewards usually suit the breed better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive drills.

Build recall gradually, moving from easy settings to more difficult distractions. Use a long line in unfenced places until recall remains reliable around likely prey. No training method can promise that a sighthound will always abandon a chase, so a lead and fencing are safety tools, not signs of failed training.

An adult benefits from varied walks, scent-based activities and opportunities to move more freely in a safe place. No evidence-based number of minutes suits every dog. Instead, watch its gait, breathing, willingness and recovery during and after exercise. Increase exertion gradually and adjust it in hot weather, during illness or when fitness is poor.

Puppies grow quickly and should be allowed to play and move at their own pace. Avoid long repetitive distances, high jumping and hard fitness work before the body has matured. Everyday movement, play on suitable surfaces, breaks and new environments build both body and confidence. Ask for advice based on the individual puppy's growth and body condition rather than using a universal minutes-per-month formula.

## Health

A healthy start depends on choosing a breeder carefully, followed by appropriate care throughout life. Irish Wolfhounds have a shorter life expectancy than many smaller breeds. Swedish and international evidence particularly highlights heart disease, cancer, pneumonia and portosystemic shunt. Individual dogs may remain healthy for a long time, but the breed's risks should not be played down.

Dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, and the rhythm disorder atrial fibrillation occur in the breed. Atrial fibrillation can be present before an owner notices clear symptoms and may precede heart muscle disease. Echocardiography shows the heart's structure and pumping function, while an ECG assesses its rhythm; the two tests answer different questions and may need to be combined. Ask when both parents were last examined, which methods were used and what is known about hearts in earlier generations. A normal result reduces uncertainty at that time but cannot guarantee that disease will never develop.

In a portosystemic shunt, or PSS, blood is diverted past the liver. The breed has an established early bile-acid check, usually performed when puppies are about six to eight weeks old and before they leave the breeder. Ask to see the litter's results and how any abnormal value was followed up. This is more informative than a general assurance that the line is healthy.

Osteosarcoma and other cancers, as well as serious pneumonia, are among the breed club's health priorities. Persistent lameness, pain or swelling needs veterinary assessment. Seek help promptly for marked lethargy or respiratory symptoms too, as pneumonia can develop rapidly and severely in this breed.

The deep chest also brings a risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV. Repeated unsuccessful attempts to vomit, a rapidly swollen or painful abdomen, pronounced restlessness, pale gums, weakness or collapse are emergency warning signs. Go straight to a vet; this cannot be treated at home. Discuss individual risk and possible preventive gastropexy with a vet. The operation reduces the risk of the stomach twisting but does not prevent every episode of bloating.

When assessing a litter, distinguish compulsory registration rules from breed-club health recommendations. The absence of a compulsory result does not make a health question unimportant. Ask for dated examination reports, the puppy's PSS result and straightforward information about longevity and causes of death among close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Irish Wolfhound has roots in Ireland's large hunting dogs, but the modern breed is the result of a documented nineteenth-century reconstruction, not an unchanged line stretching back to antiquity. In AD 391, a Roman consul wrote about Irish dogs sent to Rome. Such dogs were used to hunt wolves and other large game.

Once wolves disappeared from Ireland, the need for these dogs declined and the type came close to extinction by the end of the seventeenth century. In the later nineteenth century, Captain George Augustus Graham gathered the remaining dogs thought to represent the type and rebuilt the breed. Scottish Deerhounds were used in the process, with occasional Borzoi and Great Dane crosses. The breed was shown in its own class in 1879, and the Irish breed club was founded in 1885.

This modern history explains both the relationship with other large sighthounds and why legends about ancient wolfhounds should not be treated as a complete pedigree for today's dogs. The first Irish Wolfhound arrived in Sweden in 1931, and the Swedish Irish Wolfhound Club was formed in 1976.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Wolfhound is chiefly about space, safety and planning ahead. The breed can live in a flat if it receives suitable activity and the home works in practice, but a very large dog needs room to turn and rest, non-slip surfaces and an easy route outside. Several flights of stairs without a lift are especially difficult for a growing puppy or an injured adult that cannot be carried.

Test the car with an adult dog in mind: it must be able to lie safely, get in without risky jumps and still be transported if it becomes ill. Check that gates and fences can contain a tall, fast dog. A supportive bed, stable food and water bowls and enough room around meals also make daily life easier.

Time alone must be introduced gradually in short, secure stages. A calm breed is not automatically comfortable with long days alone, and a large distressed dog can harm both itself and the home. Arrange a dog sitter or other help before buying if working days will regularly exceed what the dog can manage.

These questions are particularly useful when choosing a breeder:

- Can you meet the dam, and how do both parents behave around people, dogs and ordinary environments?
- When were both parents last examined by echocardiogram and ECG, and what results are known in close relatives?
- Has the whole litter been tested for PSS before leaving, and will you receive a copy of the result?
- What longevity and causes of death are known among the parents, siblings and previous offspring?
- How will you provide secure exercise, transport, insurance and help if the dog cannot walk unaided?

The right home need not be the largest, but it must be practically prepared. Someone who appreciates a friendly sighthound, can manage its hunting drive and has the budget and space for a very large dog may find a distinctive companion. Anyone wanting reliable off-lead freedom everywhere, owning a small car or expecting a dog to tolerate long days alone should choose another breed.

Irish Wolfhound

Irish Wolfhound Club of Great Britain

Irish Wolfhound Club of Northern Ireland

The Irish Wolfhound Club (Germany)

Irish Wolfhounds are giant, tall hounds with a strong yet graceful build and a rough, weather‑resistant coat. Calm, gentle and sensitive, they are low‑key indoors but need steady exercise and space. They have notable health risks and a relatively short lifespan, so careful breeding and care are vital.

Liten uppfödning i hemmiljö sedan 1989.
BPH beskriver de flesta hundar av min uppfödning.
Innehavare av Hamiltonplaketten och Sv. Vinthundklubbens Uppfödarmedalj.
Internationell exteriördomare sedan 2002

Irishcanis

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Kennel Hjärtats Magic Pom är en uppfödare av rasen Pomeranian med bas i Knivsta i Sverige.

Kennel Hjärtats Magic Pom

## Quick Facts

The Borzoi is a large Russian sighthound that combines a calm manner at home with a strong prey drive and a very fast gallop. In Sweden, the breed is kept primarily as a companion, but its original working style lives on in lure coursing, in which the dog chases an artificial lure under controlled conditions.

- The desired height at the withers is 75–85 cm for males and 68–78 cm for females.
- The breed is generally quiet indoors, independent and neutral to friendly towards people.
- Fast movement in the distance can trigger a chase; a lead, long line or fully enclosed area is therefore a central part of everyday life.
- The long, silky coat needs regular brushing and can shed heavily at certain times.
- The Borzoi is best suited to someone who appreciates a large, sensitive dog and does not expect to let it off the lead in open country.

## Appearance & Coat

The Borzoi is tall, lean and slightly elongated, yet should also be strong and well muscled. Its long, narrow head, deep chest, pronounced abdominal tuck and gently arched topline create the breed's distinctive outline. The bone should be strong without being coarse. The typical trot is long and effortless; when chasing, the dog shifts into a very fast gallop.

The coat is long, light and silky. It may be wavy or form large curls and is shorter on the head, ears and insides of the legs. Longer feathering appears on areas including the neck, chest, backs of the legs and tail. Many colours and colour combinations occur.

Expect to brush the coat a couple of times a week and more often during a moult. Work through to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the long feathering, where mats can hide. Check the nails, paws, ears and mouth at the same time. The coat does not need to be kept in show condition to remain healthy, but mats must not be allowed to pull on the skin. The Borzoi is not a good choice for anyone who wants a home free from dog hair.

## Temperament & Personality

The Borzoi is usually calm, intelligent and independent, with a keen awareness of movement around it. The breed standard describes its attitude towards people as neutral to friendly. Many individuals are reserved with strangers and bark little, but that is not the same as being fearful or detached from the family. A confident Borzoi can be deeply affectionate without constantly looking for instructions.

The breed's calm reputation does not guarantee that every individual will suit every child or dog. Early, considerate socialisation and the parents' temperaments matter greatly. A dog and young child should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left alone. Because a Borzoi is large and fast, an adult should also take responsibility for walks.

Many Borzois live happily with other dogs. A familiar cat in the home may also be compatible, particularly after a carefully managed introduction. This does not automatically make the dog reliable around fast-moving cats or other small animals outdoors. The Swedish breeding strategy for the breed highlights this precise distinction: an animal that belongs to the household may be treated very differently from one that runs away outside.

## Training & Exercise

Training works best as calm teamwork with clear rewards, short sessions and purposeful variety. The Borzoi is intelligent but was bred to make rapid decisions at a distance. Repetition without a clear purpose may therefore reduce engagement, whilst harsh methods risk both welfare and the relationship. Start early with attention to the handler, loose-lead walking, stopping at doors and gates, cooperative handling and a strong recall cue.

Recall matters, but it must not be the only safety plan. When a Borzoi sees possible prey, the decision to chase can happen in an instant. Use a lead or long line where wildlife may appear and choose a fully enclosed area for running freely. In Sweden, dogs may not run loose where wild animals may be present between 1 March and 20 August; during the rest of the year, owners must still prevent their dogs from driving or pursuing wildlife.

An adult Borzoi needs daily exercise combining walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, short training sessions and chances to stretch out in a secure setting. There is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, health, the terrain and its recovery. Lure coursing can provide a controlled outlet for breed-typical behaviour in a healthy, mature dog.

Puppies grow quickly and can reach high speeds at an early age. Increase walks and training gradually, and avoid pushing a puppy through long, repetitive or high-impact sessions. Free movement at its own pace on safe ground, sufficient rest and a well-planned feeding routine discussed with the breeder and vet provide a better foundation than trying to exhaust the puppy.

## Health

Sweden's breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Borzoi as a generally healthy breed and has not found a need for a dedicated health programme. That does not mean the breed is free from disease or that all lines are alike. Parts of the evidence come from owner surveys and older insurance data, so percentages should not be treated as an exact risk for an individual dog.

In the 2021 Swedish health survey, gastrointestinal problems were the most commonly reported category, although diagnoses were often missing. The survey also mentions osteosarcoma, a form of bone cancer, among cancers seen in the breed. Do not ask only for a standard set of test results. Ask the breeder to describe the health and longevity of the parents, siblings and older close relatives, including gastrointestinal problems, gastric dilatation-volvulus, cancer, sudden deaths and temperament.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus is an immediately life-threatening emergency that most often affects large dogs. Unproductive retching, restlessness, a rapidly swollen abdomen and severe pain require an immediate call to a vet and urgent travel to a clinic. Discuss preventive routines with your vet; the Swedish Kennel Club advises avoiding exercise immediately before feeding and for the first few hours afterwards.

A DNA test for degenerative myelopathy, DM, needs careful interpretation. The Swedish breeding strategy describes it as a risk test, not a diagnosis, and several other conditions can produce similar signs. A result should therefore be considered alongside family history and veterinary expertise, not used as a stand-alone prediction of the dog's future.

## History & Origins

The Borzoi was developed in Russia as a fast, strong and weather-resistant hunting dog. The official FCI history traces the breed's development from the fifteenth century and explains how several sighthound and local dog types contributed to the modern Borzoi. The dogs were used mainly for hare and fox and, to a lesser extent, wolf.

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the Russian nobility organised large hunts involving many sighthounds, scenthounds and riders. The work required a dog to detect movement, accelerate rapidly and act without constant human direction. This explains much of today's combination of calmness, independence and strong responses to visual stimuli.

In 1888, the Moscow Hunting Society adopted a common breed standard. Its main principles remain in the current standard. In Sweden, the Borzoi is now above all a companion dog; lure coursing allows it to use aspects of its natural movement and hunting pattern without live quarry.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Borzoi takes more planning than its calm indoor behaviour might first suggest. The home needs enough space for such a large dog to turn, lie fully stretched out and move without slipping. A flat can work if stairs, transport, coat care, toilet breaks and access to a secure place to run are properly managed, but a private garden replaces neither walks nor activity. An ordinary fence is not automatically a secure exercise area; assess its height, gates and weak points for the individual dog.

Time alone must be introduced gradually and assessed for each dog. A young puppy should not be left alone, whereas a securely trained adult may cope with a few hours. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, with puppies and older dogs going out more often. Plan around the dog's actual responses rather than assuming a quiet dog is always content.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can I provide safe daily exercise and regular opportunities to run in a fully enclosed area?
- Do I accept that the dog will often need to stay on a lead where wildlife or small animals may appear?
- Do I have the space, suitable car or other travel arrangement and budget for a very large dog?
- Can I care for a long coat and live with heavy shedding?
- Can the breeder describe temperament, health and longevity across several generations rather than simply show isolated test results?

For someone who values an independent partnership and can manage prey drive, size and exercise in practical ways, the Borzoi can be a calm, close family companion with breathtaking speed when given the right outlet.

Borzoi

The Borzoi Club

Svenska Vinthundklubben (Swedish Sighthound Club)

Verein für Deutsche Windhunde (German Sighthound Association)

The Borzoi is a tall, elegant Russian sighthound with a flowing, wavy coat and long, narrow head. Calm, sensitive, and catlike indoors, it is capable of sudden high-speed sprints outside and has a strong chase instinct, needing gentle training, socialisation, and secure exercise areas.

Barowiak's är en uppfödare av rasen Borzoi med bas i Stora sundby i Sverige. Uppfödningen av borzoi har bedrivits sedan 1997.

Barowiak's

Icelandic Sheepdog

The Icelandic Sheepdog International Cooperation

The Icelandic Sheepdog Association of America

The Icelandic Sheepdog is Iceland’s only native spitz‑type herder, medium‑small, sturdy, and agile with a curled tail and thick double coat in varied colors. Cheerful, social, and vocal, it thrives on daily exercise, close family involvement, gentle training, and regular grooming.

Griffon Fauve de Bretagne

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The British Kennel Club

Association Of L'Epagneul Breton (UK)

Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (Germany)

Medium-sized French scenthound with a rough golden to red-fawn coat, dark expressive eyes, and sturdy, athletic build. Bred for wild boar, it’s energetic, curious, social, and gentle at home, needing ample outdoor exercise, secure fencing, and regular but simple coat care.

Isländsk Fårhund: Jag försöker rikta in mig på att bejaka ursprungs syfte dvs vallning, men även främja dess egenskaper som gårds-,vakt- o familjehund. 
Griffon Fauve de Bretagne är en drivande jakthund med skall på klövvilt o fantastisk familjehund. Hundarna i kenneln anv. till praktisk jakt.

Kennel Sangilak

## Quick Facts

The Greyhound is a British sighthound in FCI Group 10. It was developed to pursue hare by sight and is built for speed. In Sweden, the two main types are standard or show lines and racing lines. They are all the same breed, and a dog from racing lines has not necessarily raced.

- The ideal height in the breed standard is 71–76 centimetres for males and 68–71 centimetres for females.
- The breed standard does not specify a weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 30–50 kilograms for standard-type males and 28–42 kilograms for females; racing-type dogs are often 10–15 kilograms lighter. Line, sex, height and body condition therefore make a considerable difference.
- The coat is fine, short and close-fitting. It requires little grooming but provides limited protection from cold, wet weather and chafing.
- Greyhounds react quickly to movement. Access to a spacious, securely enclosed area matters more than the assumption that a good recall makes a dog safe off lead everywhere.
- The breed standard describes the Greyhound as intelligent, gentle, affectionate and even-tempered. An individual dog's calmness, sociability and desire to chase are also shaped by its line, upbringing, experience and health.

The Greyhound is best suited to someone who wants a close companion but can also manage the breed's speed and hunting instinct. Prospective owners therefore need to consider both life indoors and opportunities for safe exercise outside.

## Appearance & Coat

The Greyhound is a tall, strong and well-balanced dog, not merely a very slim one. Its long head and muscular neck lead into well-laid shoulders, a deep chest, a slightly arched loin and powerful hindquarters. The tucked-up abdomen and long legs create the familiar sighthound outline. The overall construction combines speed and stamina without appearing coarse.

Standard and racing lines can look noticeably different. The standard type is generally larger and heavier, while the racing type is often lighter. These are two types within one breed, not two officially separate breeds. If size matters for your home, car or daily routine, ask the breeder to show you mature close relatives.

The coat should be fine and close-fitting. Permitted colours are black, white, red, blue, fawn, reddish-yellow and brindle, either solid or combined with white. The coat normally only needs brushing when there is loose hair and bathing when the dog is genuinely dirty. Its shortness also makes grazes, chafing and changes in body condition easy to see.

Choose weather protection for the individual dog and the situation, not according to a fixed temperature threshold. A lean dog that is standing still in the cold or gets wet may need a coat, while a dog exercising in the same garment may become too warm. Check that collars, harnesses and coats do not rub the narrow neck, shoulders or armpits. A soft bed away from draughts is also practical for a short-coated dog with prominent bony points.

## Temperament & Personality

A Greyhound may be quiet and affectionate at home, but the expression “couch potato” is a simplification, not a trait guaranteed in every dog. Some settle easily between activities; others need more support with noise, being left, visitors or unfamiliar surroundings. Ask how the particular dog behaves in real daily situations rather than relying on the breed's reputation.

The breed was selected to spot and pursue movement at a distance. The urge to chase can therefore be triggered very quickly by wildlife, a cat or a small running dog. This does not mean every Greyhound is unsuitable with other animals. It means compatibility must be assessed individually, and a calm first meeting does not prove how the dog will respond when another animal starts to run.

With children, the individual dog's confidence and the household routine matter more than a general breed label. An adult should manage interactions, protect the dog's sleeping area and prevent children from climbing on, restraining or surprising a resting dog. Use the same care with small dogs and cats: begin at a distance with a lead, gate or other secure barrier, give each animal a retreat and do not leave them together unsupervised until you know their responses well. Small pets in cages or runs require secure separation.

Kind, clear handling suits the breed better than harsh corrections. A Greyhound that stops or withdraws is not necessarily stubborn; it may be uncertain, overwhelmed or in pain. Reward the behaviour you want and reduce the difficulty so that the dog is confident enough to try again.

## Training & Exercise

Greyhounds need daily movement and opportunities to use their bodies, but there is no credible minute-by-minute formula that suits every dog. Walks, sniffing and everyday training form the foundation. Opportunities to gallop can be added in a large, securely enclosed area when the dog's age, health, footing and fitness allow. A young, unfit, older or newly rehomed dog should be conditioned gradually.

The hunting instinct is the central safety issue. Keep the dog on a lead near traffic and wherever wildlife or small animals may appear. Fencing needs to be intact, high enough for the individual and free of gaps through which a slim dog could squeeze. Check the ground before releasing the dog as well; running at speed over slippery, uneven or littered ground increases the risk of injury.

Teach a response to the dog's name, attention, stopping and recall because these skills can reduce risk and make daily life easier. Recall does not, however, remove the innate pursuit response. A dog that returns every time in a training field may make a different choice when a deer breaks cover. A long line can offer more room in some places, but it is not safe for uncontrolled flat-out galloping and requires careful handling.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions often work well. Train the skills that make a practical difference: waiting calmly at doors, walking with you on lead, accepting handling of feet and mouth, pausing on cue and settling in a designated place. For a former racing dog, stairs, slippery floors, glass doors, household noises and ordinary family life may be unfamiliar. Find out what that individual already knows and introduce the rest in small steps; do not assume the same list applies to every rehomed dog.

## Health

A Greyhound's health needs to be considered in relation to its line and family because Swedish statistics often combine the standard and racing types even though their risk patterns can differ. Ask to see recorded results, enquire about the health of close relatives and check that the tests are relevant to the dog's line.

For standard and show lines, the current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs have a known status for Greyhound hereditary neuropathy, GHN. A study linked the condition to a recessively inherited change in the NDRG1 gene in the show Greyhounds examined. A DNA result should therefore be interpreted alongside the inheritance pattern and the other parent's result, not as a general indication that every carrier is ill.

For racing lines, the same breeding strategy recommends DNA testing for progressive retinal atrophy, PRA, and an eye examination before every mating. These recommendations are specific to the line. At the same time, the Greyhound has no special compulsory health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration regulations for 2026. The absence of a binding registration requirement does not mean health screening is unimportant.

Greyhounds also have blood values that can differ from general canine reference intervals. Studies have found, among other features, higher red blood cell counts and haematocrit, while white blood cell and platelet counts are often lower; creatinine and thyroid values may also need to be interpreted with the breed in mind. Always tell the vet that the dog is a Greyhound and ask the clinic to consider breed-specific intervals before labelling a result abnormal.

Delayed bleeding has been reported in some Greyhounds one to four days after surgery, even when routine coagulation tests did not clearly predict the problem. Before an operation or dental procedure, the vet should know the breed, any previous unusual bleeding and details of earlier procedures. Medication and preventive treatment must be chosen by the vet; the evidence does not support one simple standard solution for every Greyhound.

A British clinical study also placed the Greyhound among breeds with a higher frequency of osteosarcoma in the population examined. This does not predict what will happen to an individual dog, but persistent unexplained lameness, local pain or swelling should be examined by a vet rather than attributed only to age or a previous racing career.

## History & Origins

The Greyhound has a long history, but accounts often present it with more certainty than the evidence allows. The official breed standard says that an origin in the Middle East is disputed and mentions depictions of Greyhound-like dogs in Egyptian tombs. The resemblance shows that the sighthound type is ancient; it does not establish an unbroken pedigree from ancient Egypt to every modern Greyhound.

The uniform breed described by today's standard was developed in the British Isles. Greyhounds were used for coursing hare, working by sight and speed over open ground. This background explains both the quick response to movement and the body built for galloping.

When mechanical oval-track racing was established in 1926, it created a distinct breeding focus on racing speed. Show and racing lines subsequently developed along partly different paths, and in Sweden the differences can be seen in size and health recommendations. They remain one breed. Today Greyhounds are kept as companions, shown and used in organised sighthound activities, while many former racing dogs are also rehomed as household pets.

## Living with the Breed

A Greyhound can live in a flat or a house if it can settle indoors, goes out every day and has a safe arrangement for exercise. The size of the home matters less than stairs, slippery floors, noise transmission, access to outdoor space and how comfortably the dog copes with noise and being alone. Assess the individual dog in the setting where it will actually live.

Teach the dog to be alone gradually. Start with very short, uneventful absences and extend them only while the dog remains calm. A newly rehomed dog should be allowed to settle into its routine before demands increase. Persistent barking, pacing, destruction, drooling or being unable to take familiar treats can show that the step was too difficult; reduce the duration and seek knowledgeable help if the problems continue.

Arrange the home for a long, fast dog that may react suddenly to movement. Provide a soft, undisturbed sleeping place, non-slip surfaces where needed and secure doors and gates before removing the lead. Introduce cats and other dogs in stages. Even a dog that lives calmly with the family cat may respond differently to a running cat outdoors.

Before buying or rehoming, obtain clear answers to the following:

- Is the dog from standard/show or racing lines, and how large are its closest mature relatives?
- Which health tests have been completed for the parents: known GHN status in standard lines, or PRA testing and eye examinations in racing lines?
- What is known about health and longevity in the parents, siblings and older close relatives?
- How does the dog respond to children, small dogs, cats, wildlife, traffic, strangers and being left alone?
- Which environments and everyday experiences has the dog actually encountered?

Good answers describe observations, results and exceptions instead of promising that all Greyhounds are alike. When hunting instinct, line, health and home environment are a good match, a Greyhound can be a close companion who is easy to live with, provided its safety needs are not underestimated.

Greyhound

The Greyhound Club of Great Britain

Den Danske Greyhound Klub

Tall, slender Greyhounds are sprinting sighthounds, built for speed yet calm indoors. They have a short, low‑maintenance coat in many colors and need soft bedding and weather protection. Gentle, sensitive, and affectionate, they suit owners who provide routine, kind training, and moderate daily exercise.

Sjudraget är en uppfödare av rasen Greyhound med bas i Norsborg i Sverige. Den registrerade uppfödningen av rasen går tillbaka till 2001. Hundar från uppfödningen har tävlat i Sverige och utomlands.

Sjudraget

## Quick Facts

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the United States as a herding and working dog and suits people who want to train and work with their dog every day. It is quick, responsive and versatile, but its working drive and guarding and herding instincts mean it is rarely suited to someone primarily looking for an undemanding companion.

- The breed belongs to FCI Group 1 and was developed to work sheep and cattle on farms and ranches.
- Desirable height at the withers is 51–58 cm for males and 46–53 cm for females. The breed standard gives no ideal weight.
- The coat is medium-length, weather-resistant and has an undercoat. The base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red, with or without white markings and tan points.
- The tail may be naturally long or short. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.
- An Australian Shepherd needs daily physical activity, problem-solving, co-operation and opportunities to settle.
- For Swedish breeding dogs, official hip dysplasia (HD) status and known mental status through an MH assessment are key checks. MH records reactions; it is not a pass-or-fail test.

## Appearance & Coat

The Australian Shepherd is a medium-sized, well-balanced and mobile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. It should be muscular and solid without becoming heavy or clumsy, because its construction must allow quick changes of direction and sustained work. The standard specifies desirable height but no ideal weight. Assess an adult by its proportions, body condition, movement and function rather than relying on a weight range said to come from the standard.

The coat is straight to wavy, medium-length and weather-resistant. The amount of undercoat varies with factors including climate and season. A correct coat needs regular combing and closer checks during shedding, but not an identical weekly schedule for every dog. Feel through the coat to the skin and pay particular attention to areas where friction can easily cause tangles, such as behind the ears and in the feathering. Check the skin, paws and nails at the same time after work in woodland or rough ground.

The four base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red. All may occur with or without white markings and tan points. Eyes may be brown, blue or amber, including combinations, flecks and marbling. Different-coloured eyes are therefore permitted and, by themselves, say nothing about the dog's temperament.

The tail may be naturally long or naturally short. The latter is often called NBT, natural bobtail, and must not be confused with a docked tail. The Swedish Kennel Club registers the breed with a tail designation showing whether the dog has a full-length tail, a bobtail, a tail shorter than normal, no tail or a docked tail. For a puppy buyer, the registration entry is better evidence than guessing from a photograph.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Australian Shepherd should be an intelligent working dog with strong herding and guarding instincts, an even disposition and a good-natured manner. It may be reserved when first meeting strangers, but breed-typical neutrality is not the same as fear or aggression. The Swedish Australian Shepherd Club therefore emphasises that neutral is a clearer term than reserved.

There is considerable variation between individuals and families. Some dogs work very intensely in relation to people and their surroundings, while others are more balanced in everyday life; the strength of herding, guarding, sound reactions and social interest can also differ. Labels such as working line or show line are not enough to predict a puppy's temperament. Look instead at the parents, mature close relatives, the breeder's goals, working records and documented mental assessments.

As a herding dog, the breed uses its body and movement to control livestock. This can produce a strong interest in things that move. In daily life, a dog may want to follow, stop or control running children, bicycles, joggers or other animals. This is a possible breed trait, not something every Australian Shepherd does and not an excuse to let the behaviour continue. Distance, a lead or barrier, a trained alternative and rewards for checking in make the situation safer while the skill is being taught.

MH is particularly useful when comparing breeding dogs and relatives. The assessment records how a dog reacted to contact, handling, play, surprises, noise and gunshots, among other things. It cannot on its own predict how a puppy will develop, and it does not measure the whole of working ability. Read the full record and ask how the dog behaves and recovers in ordinary environments.

## Training & Exercise

An Australian Shepherd needs both movement and tasks involving scent work, problem-solving and co-operation every day, but a fixed number of hours does not describe what an individual dog needs. A calm woodland walk, tracking or searching, everyday obedience, herding, working trials, agility and other well-planned training place different demands on the dog. Adapt volume and intensity to age, health, previous conditioning and recovery.

A manageable daily life requires more than making the dog physically tired. Prioritise the following from an early age:

- engagement and responsiveness even when something is moving nearby,
- recall, first practised in an easy setting and secured with a long line when needed,
- loose-lead walking, handling and the ability to wait,
- a clear transition between activity and calm,
- the ability to disengage from following or controlling children, vehicles and animals.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and adapted to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means accidentally rewarded habits can become established quickly. Make the desired behaviour easy to choose, increase difficulty gradually and do not use fear, threats or physical punishment.

Puppies and young dogs need movement, environmental experience, rest and short learning sessions, not an adult dog's workload or an exercise schedule based on a fixed number of minutes. The aim is a dog that can work with commitment, remain responsive and then settle. If activity increases while the dog finds it harder to sleep, relax or cope with everyday stimuli, the plan needs reviewing rather than simply adding more speed.

## Health

For a Swedish puppy buyer, the crucial distinction is between binding registration rules, breed-club recommendations and optional DNA tests. Under the current Swedish Kennel Club rules, official hip dysplasia status is required before mating and, for resident Swedish breeding dogs covered by the rules, known mental status through a complete MH assessment is also required. Known status does not automatically mean a good hip result or a desirable mental profile; check the actual result.

In its breed-specific breeding strategy, SASK generally recommends hip grades A or B and an eye examination for breeding dogs. The club also highlights the value of checking hip results in close relatives because the breed has no hip index. Elbow dysplasia (ED) screening is voluntary and is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Ask the breeder to show what was actually examined, on which dog, on what date and with what result rather than accepting the phrase health tested.

DNA tests are available for CEA, HSF4 and MDR1, among others, but SASK does not prescribe one universal panel for every mating. Each test concerns a particular gene or risk variant. A clear HSF4 result, for example, does not rule out every form of cataract and does not replace a clinical eye examination. Relevant tests are selected according to documented risks in the family and the planned mating.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, can affect how certain medicines are distributed in the body and reach the brain. An individual dog's status cannot be determined from its appearance. If the dog has been tested, the result should be recorded in its veterinary notes; medicine selection and dosage always belong with the veterinarian.

Two merle dogs should not be mated. The combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle variant and an increased risk of deafness and visual or eye abnormalities. The naturally short NBT tail has a different genetic basis. SASK recommends caution with matings in which both parents carry the NBT variant as well, but the two issues should not be confused.

## History & Origins

Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd as it is known today was developed in the United States. The FCI standard links the name to Basque shepherds who came to the United States from Australia during the nineteenth century. The precise contribution of older herding dogs is less certain, so a detailed account of a fixed breed recipe should be treated as theory.

American sheep and cattle farmers continued selecting dogs for versatility, independent work, intelligence and herding ability. After the Second World War, awareness of the breed grew as Western riding, rodeos, horse shows, films and television reached a wider audience. The modern breed's American ranch background explains both the paradox in its name and why function remains central to its description.

## Living with the Breed

The Australian Shepherd is best suited to a routine that includes planned activity, learning and recovery even during ordinary working weeks. A large garden does not replace shared tasks, and competition ambitions are unnecessary if the dog still has a meaningful and varied life. Anyone wanting a dog that mainly joins shorter walks should choose a less demanding type.

With children, an adult should always be present, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the household needs a plan for high-energy play. Interrupt and create distance before the dog begins to fixate on or control movement. Children should not be responsible for situations in which a quick, strong dog may react to its surroundings.

Living with dogs or cats depends on the individuals and the introduction, not the breed name. Find out about the parents' and the particular dog's history. Begin calmly with separate safe spaces, a barrier and a lead, give the cat an unobstructed escape route and progress only when both animals can remain relaxed. Small pets may require permanent physical separation.

The breed can live in a flat if it gets enough time outdoors, meaningful tasks and rest, and the owner can manage reactions to noise. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners need to prevent noises in shared areas from prompting the dog to guard and bark. Time alone should be trained gradually and judged by the individual dog's behaviour. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is an outing guideline, not a measure of how long an individual is comfortable being alone.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registration numbers, hip results, full MH records, dates and results of eye examinations, and relevant DNA results. Also check the tail designation and working achievements, and ask how mature close relatives behave around people, noise, movement, rest and recovery. Those details say more about what daily life with the dog is likely to be like than colour, eyes or whether the breeder calls the dogs working-line or show-line.

Australian Shepherd

The Australian Shepherd is a medium, athletic herding dog, highly intelligent and energetic. Loyal and people oriented, it bonds closely and needs substantial daily exercise, training, and mental work. Its striking, weather resistant coat and varied eye colors add to its appeal.

Mazima's Kennel är en uppfödare av rasen Australian shepherd med bas i Sorunda i Sverige. Verksamheten startade 2008.

Mazima's Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Mascars är en uppfödare av rasen Dvärgschnauzer med bas i Nykvarn i Sverige. Uppfödningen har haft dvärgschnauzer i färgen svart och silver sedan 1980.

Mascars

Nammours är en uppfödare av rasen Mops med bas i Södertälje i Sverige. Kenneln registrerade mops under sitt kennelnamn första gången 2021 och senast 2023.

Nammours

## Quick Facts

- The American Akita is a large, powerfully built spitz breed that originated in Japan and was developed further in the United States. The FCI classifies it as a companion dog in Group 5.
- Males stand 66–71 cm and females 61–66 cm at the withers. The breed standard gives no weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives approximately 45–55 kg for males and 35–45 kg for females.
- The breed is described as alert, responsive, dignified and courageous. It can also be reserved and independent, making training for encounters, handling and everyday control important.
- American Akitas may be intolerant of other dogs, particularly those of the same sex. They are therefore rarely an obvious choice for someone wanting regular dog-park visits or dog day care.
- The dense double coat sheds heavily at times. The care involved is not complicated, but the amount of hair and the dog's size make it a substantial job.
- The breed is best suited to an owner who can prevent risky situations, train with rewards and handle a very strong dog calmly when the surroundings become busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Akita should convey size, strength and balance. It has heavy bone, a broad, deep chest and a body that is slightly longer than it is tall. Viewed from above, the massive head forms a blunt triangle. Small eyes, a deep muzzle and erect ears create the breed's characteristic expression.

The tail is large, set high and well furnished with hair. It is carried over the back or against the flank in a three-quarter, full or double curl. When gently lowered, the last tail vertebra should reach the hock.

The coat consists of a soft, dense undercoat and straight, stiff outer hair that stands slightly away from the body. The hair is shorter on the head, ears and lower legs. At the withers and croup, the outer coat is about five centimetres long, while the tail is the most profusely coated area.

The range of colours is wider than in the Japanese Akita. Red, fawn, white, brindle and pinto occur, with or without a mask or blaze. A solid white dog has no mask. The current FCI standard, issued in 2026, disqualifies merle markings and liver colour. This matters because older breed descriptions may simply state that all colours are permitted.

Groom according to the condition of the coat rather than a fixed weekly timetable. Work a comb through the undercoat at the neck, breeches, behind the ears and around the tail. If the comb catches or the undercoat lies densely against the skin, a more thorough session is needed. Check the skin, ears, claws and teeth at the same time. After bathing, rinse and dry the coat right down to the skin.

## Temperament & Personality

An American Akita is generally alert and independent without seeking contact with everyone. The breed standard calls for a dignified, courageous and responsive temperament. This does not mean that every individual is a natural guard dog or automatically safe with children. Breeding, experience, health and training all influence how a dog behaves.

Teach the dog that unfamiliar people can be nearby without interacting with it. The aim is not for everybody to stroke the dog, but for it to pass people, receive visitors and accept handling without fear or threatening behaviour. Reward calm responses and allow enough distance. A dog that freezes, blocks access, growls or struggles to recover needs professional help.

Meetings with other dogs require particular care. The FCI explicitly states that American Akitas may be intolerant of other dogs, especially those of the same sex. This identifies a breed-related risk, not a prediction for every individual. An older Swedish breeding strategy for the breed also highlighted aggression towards dogs and reserve with strangers as practical concerns, but its evidence was limited: only 19 dogs took part in MH behavioural assessments between 2008 and 2014, and one had completed a BPH assessment. Those figures cannot describe the whole present-day population.

Observe the parents and adult relatives in ordinary situations. Ask how they respond to strangers, narrow spaces, handling and dogs of both sexes. A puppy may form a good relationship with a dog at home without accepting unfamiliar dogs as an adult. Dog parks and on-lead greetings with unknown dogs are often poor choices.

## Training & Exercise

The American Akita needs daily physical activity, scent work and interaction, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, hiking, tracking, searching and calm body-awareness exercises. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, ground conditions, temperature and recovery. The heavy build and dense coat mean that activity in warm weather needs careful planning.

Early training should focus on the skills that make a strong dog safe to live with:

- walking on a loose lead and turning calmly away from distractions
- voluntary attention and waiting behind doors and gates
- recall in enclosed areas and safe alternatives when off-lead exercise is unsuitable
- scent and search exercises that can be done away from other dogs
- calm, cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat
- resting and settling after activity

Reward-based training suits the breed's independence better than harsh corrections. Short, clear exercises with an understandable purpose are often more productive than repeated drilling. Food, increased distance, sniffing, play or access to a desired place can all serve as rewards.

Puppies and adolescents should be allowed to explore, play and move in varied ways without long runs, heavy physical strain or many repeated jumps. Increase difficulty gradually. Lameness, stiffness or reluctance to move should be assessed by a vet.

## Health

The American Akita is covered by a mandatory Swedish hip dysplasia programme. The Swedish Kennel Club will not register offspring if either parent lacked an official hip result at the time of mating. An official result does not automatically mean grade A or B. Under the Kennel Club's general rules, a dog graded E must not be bred from, while a dog graded D may only be mated to a dog graded A or B. Ask to see the actual grade and examination date, not merely confirmation that the parents were “X-rayed”.

The Swedish breeding strategy for American Akitas is based mainly on data from 2008–2014 and should be treated as a dated source, not current prevalence data. Too few dogs had been examined to support firm conclusions about hip, elbow or eye health across the breed. The document recommends hip grades A or B, elbow grade 0 and repeat eye examinations, always including one before the first mating. Elbow and eye results are worth asking about, but they are not the same as the mandatory breed-specific hip rule in Sweden's 2026 registration regulations.

For both parents and, where possible, older full siblings and previous offspring, ask for:

- the exact hip grade, plus elbow result and examination date
- the eye examination result and its date
- recurring skin, coat, knee or eye problems among close relatives
- diagnoses of sebaceous adenitis or uveodermatologic syndrome among close relatives
- how long close relatives lived and which illnesses affected them

A list of tests is not a guarantee of health. Results must be considered alongside family history, how the dogs manage everyday life and how well the parents complement one another. The Akita Club of America also recommends hip, eye and thyroid evaluations. This may be relevant when American or other overseas lines are involved.

The American Akita is large and deep-chested, so owners should recognise gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV. It is an acute, life-threatening condition. Unproductive retching, excessive drooling, restlessness, panting, a swollen or painful abdomen, pale gums, weakness or collapse require immediate veterinary attention.

## History & Origins

The American Akita originated in Japan but developed as a distinct type in the United States. The current FCI standard records that medium-sized Akita Matagi dogs were used for dog fighting from 1603. From 1868, they were crossed with breeds including the Tosa and Mastiff, increasing their size while weakening several spitz characteristics. Dog fighting was prohibited in 1908, and nine Akitas were designated Japanese Natural Monuments in 1931.

The population declined sharply during the Second World War. Dogs were confiscated for fur used in military clothing, while some owners crossed their dogs with German Shepherd Dogs to evade the order. Several types remained after the war. Dewa-line dogs with Mastiff and German Shepherd influence were taken to the United States by American military personnel.

These lines were developed further in the United States. The Akita Club of America was founded in 1956, and the American Kennel Club admitted the breed to its stud book and regular show status in October 1972. Because the American and Japanese kennel clubs did not then recognise each other's pedigrees, the American population developed without new Japanese bloodlines. The result was the larger, heavier type with a broader range of accepted colours that the FCI now recognises as the American Akita.

## Living with the Breed

An American Akita may be calm indoors, but everyday arrangements must still work when a cat runs past, a loose dog approaches or a child opens the front door. The crucial question is not simply how much space you have, but whether you can maintain safe routines every day.

Active adult supervision is essential around children. A dog of this size can knock a child over unintentionally. Children must never disturb the dog when it is eating, sleeping or trying to move away. Choose a breeder by looking at the adult dogs' actual behaviour around children, not a general claim that the breed is protective.

Living with another dog, a cat or a smaller animal must be assessed individually. Early familiarity can help, but does not replace gates, separate resting places, controlled introductions and the ability to keep animals apart. A good relationship with the household cat also says nothing certain about how the dog will react to a cat outdoors.

Flat living can work if there is enough room to handle the dog, crowded encounters can be avoided and exercise and mental activity are provided outside. A garden must be securely enclosed and never replaces walks or training. Introduce time alone gradually, beginning with short, calm periods. Judge whether the individual dog can truly settle rather than relying on a general time limit.

Before choosing a puppy, meet at least the dam and preferably several adult relatives. Ask to see how the dogs walk on a lead, receive visitors and recover after an unexpected event. Check health results yourself and ask how the breeder decides which puppy is suited to your home. An American Akita is the right choice only if you value its independence and also have the time, strength and judgement to manage it without relying on physical force.

American Akita

Large, powerful spitz-type dog with a broad, bear-like head and curled tail. Calm, loyal, and strongly protective with family, but reserved with strangers and often aloof with other dogs. Thick double coat sheds heavily. Intelligent, independent, and best suited to experienced, consistent owners.

Min-M's är en uppfödare av rasen American akita med bas i Bro i Sverige. Uppfödningen av american akita går tillbaka till 2014. Hundar från uppfödningen har deltagit i viltspår och utställning.

Min-M's

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Jump And Bounce är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, mellan med bas i Vällingby i Sverige.

Jump And Bounce

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Wisborgens är en uppfödare av rasen Cocker spaniel med bas i Kungsängen i Sverige. Uppfödningen har inriktning på jaktcocker och den första kullen föddes 1962. I anslutning till verksamheten drivs Hundsporthallen, där det erbjuds kurser för fågelhundar och nosework samt balansbane- och hallträning.

Wisborgens

Bohemian Shepherd

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV)

Medium-sized Czech herding and guard dog with a black coat and tan markings. Athletic, intelligent, and people-oriented, it bonds closely with family, needs daily exercise and mental work, and responds best to gentle, consistent training. Generally healthy with a long lifespan.

Föder upp  Tjeckisk vallhund 
Chodsky pes

Knoll och Tott

En småskalig uppfödare av vit dvärgschnauzer i hemmet. Medlem i Skk och följer alla regler. Välkommen till vår hemsida!

Vendela Ernback

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

Lobo är en uppfödare av rasen Siberian husky med bas i Lidingö i Sverige. Uppfödningen har registreringar av siberian husky som går tillbaka till 2009.

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