## Quick Facts

The Lhasa Apso is a small, long-coated companion dog with great self-confidence and a strong sense of independence. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an observant dog and is prepared to devote time to coat care, handling and everyday training.

- **Origin:** Tibet; Great Britain is also listed as a country of patronage in the modern breed standard
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** the ideal height at the withers is 25 cm for a male; females should be slightly shorter
- **Body shape:** compact and slightly longer than tall
- **Temperament:** cheerful, assertive, alert and steady, sometimes reserved with strangers
- **Coat:** long, heavy and straight topcoat with a moderate undercoat
- **Grooming:** demanding when kept in full coat; a shorter trim reduces the work but does not make the coat maintenance-free
- **Lifespan:** a large British study estimated a median lifespan of 14 years, although an individual dog may have a shorter or longer life

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Rather than judging an adult Lhasa Apso against a supposedly ‘correct’ figure, monitor its body condition, muscle tone and development with the breeder and your vet.

## Appearance & Coat

A Lhasa Apso should be a sturdily built small dog without exaggeration. The body is slightly rectangular, movement should be free and the coat must never prevent the dog from seeing or moving. The ideal height for a male is 25 cm and a female should be slightly shorter; this is an ideal in the breed standard, not a range into which every dog must fit precisely.

The head has a moderately defined stop and a straight muzzle measuring about one third of the head’s total length. The eyes should be dark, oval and medium-sized, neither large and prominent nor small and sunken. The tail is set high, well feathered and carried over the back.

The topcoat should be long, heavy, straight and fairly hard, rather than woolly or silky. The undercoat should be moderate. Golden, sandy, honey, dark grizzle, slate grey, smoke, black, white, brownish and parti-colour are among the colours listed in the standard, and all are considered equal.

A full coat involves a great deal of work, including bathing, drying, brushing and combing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how to part the coat and comb right down to the skin, especially in areas where mats can remain hidden. The frequency depends on coat texture, length, life stage and the dog’s daily routine; one fixed timetable will not suit every dog. A shorter trim makes grooming easier, but the coat must still be kept clean and free of mats, and the ears, eyes, paws and nails still need checking.

Gently teach the puppy to stand still, have its paws examined and accept a comb for short periods. This matters more than owning an elaborate collection of grooming tools. The Lhasa Apso should not be described as allergy-free or guaranteed to be suitable for people with allergies. The amount of dog allergen varies considerably even among individuals of the same breed, so anyone with an allergy should take medical advice seriously before buying a dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The Lhasa Apso should be cheerful, assertive, alert and steady. A degree of reserve with new people is typical of the breed, but should not be confused with fear or aggression. Some dogs approach readily, while others prefer to watch a visitor for a while before coming closer.

The breed has historically been valued for its watchfulness, and many individuals bark at unfamiliar sounds. This matters in a flat with poor sound insulation, but how readily a dog becomes excited depends on the individual, its surroundings and what it has learnt. Start early with training around the doorbell, sounds in communal areas and settling again afterwards. A prospective owner should meet the puppy’s mother and, if possible, other adult relatives to see how they cope with people, noise and unfamiliar settings.

No one can promise that a Lhasa Apso will automatically get on with children, cats or other dogs. Previous experience, introductions and the individual dog’s behaviour matter more than its breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a safe resting place where it will be left alone. Teach children not to pick up the dog, pull its coat or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping.

## Training & Exercise

The Lhasa Apso needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. Adjust walks, pace and terrain to the dog’s age, health, fitness and the weather. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, play, short training sessions and the opportunity to rest undisturbed.

The breed is small but can be active and capable of learning a great deal. Some Lhasa Apsos take part successfully in activities such as rally obedience and agility. That does not mean every dog should be trained in the same way. For a young dog, calm exposure to different environments, lead skills, recall and relaxed handling matter more than increasing physical strain too quickly.

Use reward-based, progressive training with clear criteria. Short sessions make it easier to finish while the dog is still engaged. Reward voluntary attention, calm behaviour at the door and cooperation during grooming. If the dog loses focus, make the task easier or change the reward instead of turning training into a battle of wills. Independence does not make the breed impossible to train.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Lhasa Apso as generally healthy and long-lived, but a responsible purchase still requires specific health questions. In a large British registry study published in 2024, the estimated median lifespan was 14.0 years among 7,216 dogs of the breed. This figure describes the dogs in that British study and is not a promise for an individual puppy.

The principal breed-specific health programme in Sweden concerns PRA4, a genetic form of progressive retinal atrophy that can cause deteriorating night vision and eventually blindness. The Swedish Kennel Club records the DNA results so that they can be checked. It is a level 1 programme and does not make DNA testing compulsory before breeding. A dog that has inherited the variant from both parents is classed as genetically affected and must not be bred from. Two carriers must not be mated to one another either. A carrier may, however, be mated to a genetically clear dog without producing puppies genetically affected by this particular PRA4 variant.

A PRA4 test is not a substitute for a clinical eye examination, because other eye changes and other forms of PRA can occur. The breed club recommends an eye examination before the first mating and, preferably, again at six and nine years of age, but eye testing is no longer a registration requirement. Ask the breeder to show you the parents’ recorded PRA4 results and current eye examination results, and to explain how the proposed pairing was assessed.

The breed’s breeding strategy also discusses historical cases of renal dysplasia. This is a developmental abnormality of the kidney tissue that arises in the foetus or newborn puppy and can cause serious kidney disease. There is no simple routine test that can declare a litter unaffected. Ask about confirmed cases in close relatives and how the breeder has taken the family history into account. The Swedish Kennel Club records cases in every breed when the diagnosis has been confirmed by examination of kidney tissue.

Look at function as well as awards and coat. A sound Lhasa Apso should be able to breathe freely, have clear eyes without irritation, see despite the hair on its head and move without restriction. Repeated eye irritation, laboured breathing or a coat that restricts movement should not be dismissed as normal for the breed.

## History & Origins

The breed standard lists Tibet as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country of patronage. The modern development and standardisation of the breed took place in Great Britain. The breed developed to withstand a harsh high-altitude climate, which is reflected in its substantial coat and sturdy construction.

The first dogs of the breed arrived in Great Britain in the early 1920s. They were initially confused with other long-coated Tibetan dogs under the name Lhasa Terrier, before the Lhasa Apso and Tibetan Terrier, among others, were separated. The English breed club was established in 1933, and the breed reached Sweden in 1965.

Stories about monasteries, sacred dogs and diplomatic gifts are often retold as one continuous, detailed history. Some elements belong to tradition rather than verifiable documentation. What is well established is the breed’s Tibetan origin and its British standardisation during the twentieth century.

## Living with the Breed

The Lhasa Apso can live successfully in either a flat or a house when its owner takes responsibility for training around everyday sounds, exercise, coat care and time alone. Its small size does not reduce its need for walks, training or a quiet place to rest.

Being left alone is a training issue, not an inborn breed advantage. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and training should begin with very short, secure periods. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can usually remain alone for a few hours, but reduce the duration if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress. Arrange help if your routine requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- What are the parents’ recorded PRA4 results, and why is the pairing safe?
- When were the parents last examined by an eye specialist, and were any findings recorded?
- Have there been confirmed cases of renal dysplasia or other serious disease in close relatives?
- How do the parent dogs respond to strangers, other dogs, noise and handling?
- How is the coat managed in practice, and how much work does a full coat require compared with a short trim?
- Can the dogs breathe, see and move freely without their coat or head shape restricting them?

The breed suits someone who wants to share life with a small but self-assured dog and considers grooming and everyday training part of dog ownership. It is less suitable for anyone seeking a maintenance-free coat, guaranteed silence or a dog expected to accept every person and animal without thoughtful introductions.

Lhasa Apso

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze (VDH - Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion once kept as an indoor watchdog. Rectangular body, dense floor‑length coat with many colors, low shedding but high grooming needs. Loyal and protective with family, reserved with strangers, alert and vocal. Suits apartments if well trained and exercised.

Tone Rydningen er oppdretter av lhasa apso i Sarpsborg under kennelnavnet Lhamidwa's. Kennelnavnet var i bruk i oppdrettet allerede i 2010. Hunder fra oppdrettet har oppnådd championtitler i Norge og Sverige, og en av dem ble den første lhasa apsoen i Norge med tittelen Nordic Show Champion. En veteran fra oppdrettet har også internasjonal championtittel, championtitler fra Norge, Sverige og Danmark samt norske og danske vinnertitler. Oppdrettet har dessuten vært representert på Norsk Lhasa Apso Klubbs resultatlister. I 2017 ble en hund nummer fem sammenlagt og nummer tre blant tispene på klubbens mestvinnende-liste. I 2025 toppet en hund fra oppdrettet klubbens «10 på topp», mens ytterligere to var blant de ti beste.

Tone Rydningen

## Quick Facts

- Tiny companion breed from the Czech Republic, traditionally used as a nimble ratter in castles and city homes  
- Very small and lightweight, yet surprisingly athletic and confident in attitude  
- Strong bond with their people, often choosing one favorite person while still loving the whole family  
- Short, easy care coat, but they feel the cold and usually need a sweater or coat in cooler weather  
- Alert watchdog with a big voice for such a small body, making them excellent little house guardians  

## Appearance & Coat

The Prague Ratter is one of the smallest dog breeds in the world, but their presence feels much larger than their size. Most adults stand around 20 to 23 centimeters at the shoulder and weigh between 1.5 and 3.5 kilograms. They are compact, well balanced and lightly built, with a fine bone structure that still feels surprisingly sturdy in the hand. Their body is slightly longer than tall, with a graceful neck and an elegant, almost toy like silhouette.

The head is small and refined, with a gently rounded skull and a narrow muzzle that tapers without appearing snippy. Dark, expressive eyes give the Prague Ratter a lively and alert expression that many owners describe as nearly human. Ears are usually set high and carried erect, which adds to their inquisitive look. The tail may be natural or docked depending on local regulations, but in motion it often curves slightly and shows how much they enjoy life.

The coat of the Prague Ratter is most commonly short, smooth and tight to the body, with a glossy shine when in good condition. There is also a longer coated variety, sometimes with light feathering on ears, legs and tail, although the short coat is still much more widespread. Classic coloring for the breed is black and tan, with rich tan markings above the eyes, on the cheeks, chest, legs and under the tail. However, other colors exist, such as brown and tan, blue and tan, red, yellow and occasionally merle in some lines where it is allowed.

Caring for the coat is generally straightforward, which is one reason the Prague Ratter appeals to many modern owners. A weekly brush with a soft bristle brush or grooming glove is usually enough to remove loose hairs and keep the coat shiny. During seasonal shedding periods, brushing two or three times a week can help reduce hair around the house. Because the coat is so short, skin health is particularly important. Use mild dog shampoo, avoid over bathing, and check regularly for dry patches or irritation.

Their small size means they feel temperature changes quite strongly. In cool or wet weather, most Prague Ratters appreciate a light coat or sweater, especially on windy days. In winter in colder climates, a warm jacket and even small dog boots can be useful for longer walks, as salt and ice may irritate their delicate paws. Regular nail trimming, ear cleaning and dental care are also essential, since many toy breeds are prone to dental tartar and gum issues. With a simple but consistent grooming routine, a Prague Ratter will stay neat and comfortable with very little fuss.

## Temperament & Personality

The Prague Ratter is often described as a big dog in a tiny body. They are confident, spirited and curious, and they love to be involved in everything their family does. In daily life, you can expect a Prague Ratter to follow you from room to room, jump onto the sofa to sit beside you, and quickly learn the sounds of your routine. They thrive on human company and usually do not enjoy being left alone for long periods.

With their families, Prague Ratters tend to be very affectionate and loyal. Many form a particularly close bond with one person, often the main caregiver, while still being friendly and cuddly with other family members. They like to burrow under blankets, curl up on laps, and sleep close to their people at night. For some owners this closeness is the best part of living with the breed, but it also means that these dogs can become quite dependent and may develop separation anxiety if not trained to be comfortable alone.

Around children, the Prague Ratter can be a loving and playful companion, but their tiny size requires careful supervision. Well raised children who understand how to be gentle can enjoy teaching tricks, playing short games of fetch or simply cuddling on the sofa. However, rough handling, squeezing or accidental dropping can seriously injure such a small dog. Families with very young or boisterous children must think honestly about whether everyone can respect the physical limits of the breed.

With other dogs, Prague Ratters are often confident and sometimes a little too bold. They may challenge much larger dogs without realizing how small they really are. Early socialization in safe environments is important, so they learn to read other dogs correctly and to interact politely. With other small dogs they usually get along well, especially if introduced gradually. Their original role as a ratter means that many keep a strong prey drive, so caution is needed with pet rodents, small birds or free roaming rabbits. Some can live with cats, especially if raised together from puppyhood, but many will still chase if the cat runs.

One notable personality trait of the Prague Ratter is their alertness. They notice every sound in the hallway, footsteps outside the door, and cars arriving at the house. This makes them excellent little watchdogs, but it can also lead to nuisance barking if not managed. Teaching a reliable “quiet” cue and rewarding calm behavior works better than scolding. Because they are intelligent and eager to please, Prague Ratters respond well to gentle, reward based training that makes them think and keeps them included.

Potential challenges include:

- Tendency to bark at noises or strangers  
- Strong attachment that can turn into separation anxiety  
- Prey drive towards small animals  
- Overconfidence with larger dogs

For owners who can provide structure, patience and plenty of closeness, the Prague Ratter is a deeply loving companion with a lively, entertaining personality that fills the home with energy.

## Training & Exercise

Despite their tiny body, the Prague Ratter is an active and quick thinking dog that truly enjoys training. They are usually food motivated, curious and eager to be part of whatever their person is doing. This combination means that, with the right approach, training can be both effective and great fun for everyone.

The best training methods for a Prague Ratter are positive and encouraging. They respond very well to:

- Small, tasty treats as rewards  
- Verbal praise delivered in a warm, happy tone  
- Short, varied sessions that keep boredom away  
- Games that let them use both body and brain  

Harsh corrections, shouting or physical punishment can damage their trust and may make them anxious or defensive. Given their sensitive nature, it is much more successful to guide them gently and reward what you like, rather than focusing heavily on what you do not want.

Basic obedience such as sit, down, stay, recall and walking nicely on a leash should start early. Because of their size, some owners fall into the trap of carrying them everywhere and allowing pushy behaviors that would never be accepted in a larger dog. It is important to remember that a Prague Ratter is still a dog, not a toy, and needs the same clear boundaries and consistent rules as any other breed. Teaching them to walk on their own four paws, wait calmly at doors, and greet people politely helps prevent “small dog syndrome” and makes daily life easier.

Exercise needs are moderate but not negligible. A Prague Ratter does not require long mountain hikes, but they do enjoy several short walks every day, along with time to sniff, explore and play. Many adults are happy with around 45 to 60 minutes of activity spread throughout the day, adapted to their age and health. This might include:

- Two or three brisk walks of 10 to 20 minutes each  
- Play sessions at home such as fetch or tug with safe, lightweight toys  
- Short indoor training games on rainy or very cold days  

Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Because of their history as ratters, many Prague Ratters enjoy nose work games, searching for treats hidden in folded towels or simple puzzle toys. Some take to beginner level agility, trick training or mini obedience competitions. These activities help to channel their natural alertness and intelligence, and they also strengthen the bond between dog and owner.

Owners should keep in mind that the Prague Ratter is small and can tire more quickly than a larger, athletic breed, especially on rough terrain or in extreme temperatures. Watch for signs of fatigue, such as lagging behind, panting heavily or refusing to continue. In hot weather, avoid walking in the full midday sun and offer water frequently. In cold weather, keep walks shorter and use dog clothing to protect their body and paws.

Early socialization is a key part of training. Expose your Prague Ratter puppy to different people, gentle dogs, vehicles, sounds and environments in a positive, controlled way. Reward calm curiosity and allow them to retreat if something worries them, rather than forcing contact. A well socialized Prague Ratter is far less likely to develop fearfulness or sharpness in adulthood.

When training and exercise are tailored to their size and temperament, Prague Ratters become delightful, manageable companions who enjoy learning, exploring and being by your side in everyday life.

## Health

Although usually a robust and lively little dog, the Prague Ratter does have some health issues that owners and breeders should be aware of. Responsible breeding, routine veterinary care and careful daily management all play an important role in keeping this breed healthy over the long term.

Common health concerns in Prague Ratters can include:

- Patellar luxation, where the kneecap slips out of place, causing lameness or hopping  
- Dental problems such as tartar build up, gum disease and retained baby teeth, which are common in many toy breeds  
- Fragile bones in very small individuals, leading to a risk of fractures from jumping or accidental falls  
- Heart issues in some lines, particularly valve diseases that may appear with age  
- Eye conditions such as cataracts or dry eye in certain bloodlines  

Because of these potential problems, many breed clubs and responsible breeders recommend specific health tests. These may include veterinary examination of the knees to check for patellar luxation, eye examinations by a specialist, and in some cases heart evaluations. Prospective puppy buyers should feel comfortable asking breeders what health checks have been carried out on the parents, and requesting to see the relevant documentation.

Lifespan for a well cared for Prague Ratter is often between 12 and 15 years, and many remain active and playful well into their senior years. To support a long and healthy life, owners should focus on several key areas.

Firstly, weight management is essential. Even a small amount of extra weight is significant on such a tiny frame and can increase the strain on joints, heart and other organs. Feed a high quality, age appropriate diet and measure portions carefully. Treats should make up only a small part of daily calorie intake. It is easy to spoil such a small, cute dog with snacks, but their body will thank you for moderation.

Secondly, dental care deserves special attention. Daily or at least frequent tooth brushing with dog safe toothpaste helps to prevent plaque and tartar buildup. Regular dental check ups with the vet allow early intervention if problems arise. Many Prague Ratters accept tooth brushing readily if introduced gradually with patience and rewards.

Thirdly, owners should protect their dog from accidents and injuries. Avoid allowing a Prague Ratter to jump from high furniture or run up and down steep stairs repeatedly. Train them to use ramps or small steps to reach sofas or beds if they are allowed on furniture. When out on walks, use a lightweight harness instead of a collar for leash attachment, to avoid pressure on the delicate neck and trachea.

Routine preventive care such as vaccinations, parasite control, and annual health checks are also important. Senior Prague Ratters may benefit from more frequent veterinary visits to monitor heart function, joints, dental health and general condition. Early detection of changes, such as weight loss, coughing, stiffness or increased thirst, can greatly improve the success of treatment.

Breeders who care about the future of the Prague Ratter focus not only on appearance but also on solid health, sound temperament and appropriate size. As a buyer or owner, supporting these efforts by choosing responsible breeders and following veterinary advice will help to keep this charming little breed healthy and happy for generations to come.

## History & Origins

The Prague Ratter, known in its homeland as Pražský krysařík, has a history that stretches back many centuries in the Czech lands and neighboring regions. While the exact origins are not fully documented, it is widely believed that small, agile terrier type dogs were kept in royal courts, castles and city houses to control rats and other vermin. Their compact size, quick reflexes and keen hunting instinct made them extremely effective at this job.

Historical records and paintings from Central Europe show tiny black and tan dogs at the side of nobility and in the bustling streets of medieval towns. These early Prague Ratters were valued not only as working ratters but also as charming companions, often living close to their owners and sharing their daily life. Their presence in royal courts helped spread their reputation abroad as well, and small dogs similar to the Prague Ratter appeared in other European countries.

Over time, changes in living conditions, urban development and the introduction of other fashionable toy breeds led to a decline in the popularity of the Prague Ratter. For a period, the breed seemed at risk of disappearing, kept mainly by a small number of enthusiasts in rural areas and by families who valued them as traditional rat catchers and house companions.

In the late 20th century, interest in native breeds and cultural heritage in the Czech Republic led to renewed efforts to preserve and standardize the Prague Ratter. Dedicated breeders began to select carefully for type, temperament and health, and a modern breed standard was created. This work helped the Prague Ratter move from a nearly forgotten local dog to an internationally recognized companion breed with growing popularity in various European countries and beyond.

Today, the Prague Ratter is no longer relied on as a working ratter in most homes, although many still show a strong instinct to chase mice and small pests if they get the chance. Instead, the breed is primarily a beloved companion, valued for its affectionate nature, intelligence and compact size that fits well into modern city living. In some countries, Prague Ratters can also be seen in dog sports such as agility, obedience or trick competitions, where their lively character and quick learning stand out.

Breed clubs in the Czech Republic, France, Scandinavia and other regions now work together to maintain and promote the Prague Ratter. The focus is on preserving its historic charm and usefulness as a small, alert and loving family dog, while ensuring solid health and stable temperament. For people who appreciate a breed with deep local roots and a story that connects royal courts, city alleys and modern apartments, the Prague Ratter carries a rich and fascinating heritage in a very tiny body.

## Living with the Breed

Sharing your life with a Prague Ratter is often described as having a tiny shadow with a huge personality. This breed thrives on being close to their people and is best suited to owners who enjoy a dog that wants to be involved in daily routines rather than lying quietly in a corner. If you like a dog that sits on your lap while you work, curls up under the blanket in the evening and greets you joyfully after even short absences, the Prague Ratter can be a wonderful match.

Prospective owners should be prepared for a relatively high level of emotional commitment. These dogs form strong attachments and can be sensitive to changes in routine, raised voices or family tension. They do best in homes where they are treated as a true family member and where someone is usually present for much of the day. A Prague Ratter left alone regularly for long hours may develop barking, destructive behavior or anxiety.

From a practical point of view, their small size is both an advantage and a responsibility. On one hand, they fit easily into small apartments, and many landlords who accept dogs are more open to such a tiny breed. Daily exercise is relatively easy to provide, since shorter walks and indoor play can already meet a large part of their needs. On the other hand, owners must always be aware of physical risks, such as being stepped on, caught in a door, or injured by larger animals. Simple habits like checking where the dog is before moving a chair or closing a door become second nature.

Financially, annual costs for a Prague Ratter are often lower than for large dogs, particularly when it comes to food and some medications that depend on weight. However, there are still important expenses to consider:

- Purchase price from a responsible breeder  
- Vaccinations, routine veterinary checks and parasite control  
- Sterilization or castration if not used for breeding  
- Pet insurance or a savings fund for unexpected veterinary bills  
- Quality food, treats and dental care products  
- Equipment such as harnesses, collars, leashes, coats and bedding  

Because of the potential for dental and orthopedic issues, choosing a good pet insurance policy or setting aside money regularly for veterinary care is wise. Over the course of their life, preventive care, dental work and occasional testing can add up, even for a small dog.

Useful equipment for living with a Prague Ratter includes a comfortable, well fitting harness that does not rub under the arms; a lightweight leash; and a selection of soft, appropriately sized toys. Many owners find that puzzle feeders and treat balls help keep their dog mentally busy, especially on days when outdoor activity is limited. Several soft beds or blankets around the home allow the dog to rest near different family members. Warm coats and sweaters for winter, along with a rain jacket for wet weather, are more than a fashion choice for this breed, as they genuinely support their comfort and health.

Training should continue throughout the dog’s life, not just during puppyhood. Short daily sessions, even of only five minutes, keep their mind engaged and reinforce good manners. Basic house rules such as where the dog is allowed to go, how they greet visitors, and how they behave at mealtimes should be clear and consistent. Many behavior issues in small dogs arise simply because boundaries were never clearly set.

For families who understand toy breed needs and are willing to adapt their home and habits slightly, the Prague Ratter offers an enormous amount of joy in a very small package. Their combination of devotion, playfulness and intelligence makes them a rewarding companion for people across different ages, from active singles to older adults who want a dog that can participate fully in daily life without demanding extreme exercise. With care, patience and love, living with a Prague Ratter can feel like sharing your world with a brave and loyal little friend who never stops trying to be by your side.

Prague Ratter

Verein für Deutsche Spitze

Dansk Kennel Klub

Svenska Kennelklubben

British Veterinary Association

Club Français des Rats de Prague

The Prague Ratter is a tiny Czech companion once used for ratting, lively and athletic despite its size. It has a short, low‑maintenance coat but feels the cold. Very affectionate and people‑oriented, it’s an alert little watchdog that bonds closely with its family.

Elisabeth Løvtangen Skauen driver oppdrett av prazsky krysarik i Greåker under kennelnavnet Mini Amores. Kennelnavnet er også knyttet til oppdrett av pomeranian. I 2022 deltok Mini Amores i oppdretterklasse for pomeranian under Påskeutstillingen.

Elisabeth Løvtangen Skauen

## Quick Facts

The Japanese Spitz is a Japanese companion dog in FCI Group 5. Its defining features are a pure white double coat, small upright ears and a plumed tail carried over the back. This is a lively, observant breed that is often keen to train, but it can also be quick to bark. Anyone considering a Japanese Spitz should therefore assess noise tolerance just as carefully as exercise needs.

- **Origin and purpose:** Japan; companion dog, FCI number 262.
- **Size:** the standard sets a height of 30–38 cm for males, with females slightly smaller. It does not specify a weight.
- **Proportions:** the body is slightly longer than it is tall, with a height-to-length ratio of 10:11.
- **Coat:** pure white, with a straight, stand-off outer coat and a short, soft, dense undercoat.
- **Temperament:** the ideal is intelligent, cheerful and alert. A Japanese Spitz may give an alert bark, but should not be habitually noisy, fearful or aggressive.
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, scent work and mental tasks, and early training around sounds, visitors and being left alone.

A Japanese Spitz can resemble a small Samoyed or a white German Spitz, but these are separate breeds with different standards and histories. Appearance alone cannot tell you how they compare in temperament, size or health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Japanese Spitz is sturdy yet elegant, without exaggerated proportions. Its pointed muzzle, dark almond-shaped eyes and small triangular ears create an alert expression. The back should be short and level, and movement should be quick and active. The tail is carried over the back but should not be tightly curled.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is straight and stands away from the body, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. Hair is shorter on the face, ears and fronts of the legs, but longer over the body. The ruff around the neck and chest and the well-feathered tail are especially prominent. Pure white is the only accepted colour.

A thorough brush and comb down to the skin about once a week is usually a sound starting point. Work through small sections so the comb reaches the undercoat, paying particular attention behind the ears. More frequent grooming is needed during a moult. The Swedish Kennel Club describes females as often moulting twice a year and adult males usually once, although timing and volume vary.

Bathing should be based on dirt and need, not a fixed timetable. A white coat does not have to be washed whenever it becomes dusty. Introduce a puppy calmly to a brush, comb and paw handling before a full grooming session is necessary.

## Temperament & Personality

The Japanese Spitz notices changes in its surroundings quickly and generally likes to stay close to its family. The breed standard describes it as intelligent, cheerful and alert. Some individuals have little interest in interacting with unfamiliar people or dogs. Reserve is not the same as fear: panic, threats or difficulty recovering are different from calm self-possession.

Barking needs a balanced explanation. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed description says the Japanese Spitz is quick to bark, while the standard says it should not be noisy. These statements are compatible when a brief alert is distinguished from barking that continues at every sound. The aim is not to remove the dog's awareness, but to help it notice a sound at the door and then settle again.

Barking, shyness and fear of unfamiliar people recurred in the breed club's owner surveys in 2014 and 2020. The respondents were self-selected and the question was broad, so the answers do not show how common any trait is across the breed. If possible, meet the puppy's mother in an everyday setting, ask how close relatives respond to visitors and sounds in communal hallways, and read any BPH behaviour descriptions as profiles rather than scores.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who is willing to train actively and address barking consistently. It is a poorer fit for someone who assumes that a companion breed will automatically be quiet, always come when called or greet everyone enthusiastically.

## Training & Exercise

An adult Japanese Spitz needs physical and mental activity every day, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. Vary walks, sniffing, play and short co-operative tasks. Rally obedience, nose work, agility, tracking, tricks and everyday training are all possible choices; match them to the dog's health, interests and fitness.

Judge the amount by recovery. The dog should be able to settle and move without stiffness after rest. A dog that alerts to every small disturbance may need clearer rest, scent work or better training around distractions — not necessarily a longer walk. Puppies need short, playful experiences suited to their age, not a miniature adult routine.

Reward-based, progressive training makes good use of the breed's attention and willingness to work. First identify what triggers barking: the doorbell, a lift, people outside a window or excitement during play. Create distance or block the view, and reward the dog while it can still remain quiet and engage with you. Then teach a simple alternative, such as going to a mat when the bell rings. Punishment may increase anxiety without changing how the dog feels about the sound.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed's hunting instinct as relatively low, but that does not guarantee safe off-lead exercise or a reliable recall. Begin in an easy setting, increase distractions gradually and use a long line until the dog responds to the first cue even when something moves. A percentage for recall tells you less than the dog's behaviour in the place where you intend to let it off the lead.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Japanese Spitz as generally healthy, with few breed-specific diseases, but a puppy buyer should still examine knees, eyes, heart and relevant family history. One normal test cannot replace information about parents, siblings and previous offspring.

**Patellar luxation**, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. In its published breeding strategy, the breed club recommends a voluntary patella examination at around two years of age, when the dog is physically mature. Ask for the parents' official results and whether relatives have had recurring lameness, difficulty jumping, or reluctance to run and turn sharply.

**Eyes and heart** are also monitored voluntarily. The breeding strategy records a small number of PRA diagnoses in older dogs and recommends regular eye examinations for breeding dogs, especially after six years of age. It also notes a small number of older dogs with heart murmurs and MMVD. The advice is for a vet to listen to the heart at routine visits and arrange an ultrasound if a murmur is found. This is surveillance, not evidence that every dog will be affected or that an old normal result provides lifetime clearance.

**X-linked muscular dystrophy** has been documented in a limited number of Irish families, and researchers have developed a DNA test for the mutation. The breed club's strategy states that no cases were known outside the affected Irish families. DNA testing is therefore particularly relevant when a pedigree includes Irish ancestry: ask for the genetic status of the relevant branch. There is no evidence, however, that a specific PRA DNA test should be routine for the whole breed.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose any breed-specific health-testing requirements on the Japanese Spitz, and the breed has no compulsory central health programme. Patella, eye and heart checks are voluntary breed-club recommendations. Always check the latest rules before breeding and distinguish binding conditions from recommendations.

## History & Origins

The Japanese Spitz was developed in Japan during the first half of the twentieth century. The official standard cautiously says that the breed is thought to descend in part from white German Grossspitz brought to Japan via Siberia and north-eastern China around 1920. That is a documented account of its background, not a reason to describe the modern breed as a variety of German Spitz.

White spitz dogs were shown in Tokyo around 1921. Two pairs were imported from Canada in 1925, followed by further dogs from Canada, the United States, Australia and China up to 1936. These dogs were crossed to establish a more consistent breed type. After the Second World War, the Japan Kennel Club wrote the standard adopted in 1948.

More detailed claims involving Samoyeds, American Eskimo Dogs or other breeds in the early breeding programme are common, but they are not supported by the history in the official standard. It is therefore best to keep documented import routes separate from later theories.

## Living with the Breed

A Japanese Spitz can live in a flat, but noise becomes a more important consideration. Can you hear the lift, entrance door or neighbours? Place the dog's bed away from the front door and windows overlooking passing activity, and reward calm behaviour before alerting becomes a habit. Easy access to good walking and training areas matters more than the number of rooms.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also differ widely. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, use very brief absences and extend them only while the dog can rest without barking, pacing or showing stress. A camera can show what happens after the door closes. If anxiety increases, shorten the absence and return to an easier stage rather than pushing on.

With children, adult supervision and the dog's right to an undisturbed resting place matter more than the breed label. Teach children not to carry, hug or disturb the dog while it is eating or sleeping. With other dogs, cats and small animals, previous experience and individual behaviour matter more than the general statement about relatively low hunting instinct. Introduce a cat and dog at a distance, using a gate or lead, prevent chasing and give the cat high places to retreat to. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is stable.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- How do the parents and close relatives respond to sounds at the door, visitors and new places?
- What dated patella and eye results are available, and what does the breeder know about heart or mobility problems among relatives?
- Is there Irish ancestry and, if so, is the muscular-dystrophy status of the relevant branch known?
- How have the puppies practised handling, everyday sounds, rest and brief separations?

The best match is a home that appreciates an alert, trainable companion and is prepared to work calmly on noise and self-control. The white coat is the most visible feature, but in daily life how readily the dog barks, how quickly it recovers and whether it can settle determine whether the breed is a good fit.

Japanese Spitz

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Japanese Spitz is a small to medium, people‑oriented companion with a pure white double coat that’s easy to maintain with regular brushing. Lively, intelligent, and trainable, it suits apartments with daily exercise. Naturally alert and vocal, it is usually friendly once introduced.

Jorun Roaldset driver oppdrett av japansk spisshund i Knapstad under kennelnavnet Ereganto. Ereganto formidler informasjon om rasens bakgrunn og rasestandard. Oppdrettet legger også vekt på tett dialog med valpekjøpere den første tiden.

Jorun Roaldset

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Kenneth Østlund driver oppdrett av rasen Bichon havanais og holder til i Borgenhaugen i Norge.

Kenneth Østlund

## Quick Facts

- The Newfoundland is a Canadian giant breed developed for heavy draught work and work in water. Today, it is mainly kept as a companion and water dog.
- The breed ideal is gentle, friendly and peaceful. This describes the aim of responsible breeding, not the automatic behaviour of every dog.
- An adult male averages about 71 centimetres in height and 68 kilograms in weight. The corresponding averages for females are about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms.
- The medium-length double coat is dense and water-resistant. The recognised colours are black, brown, and white and black.
- Its size makes early lead training, calm greetings and confident handling essential.
- Sweden has an official water trial for the breed, but interest in water and the ability to swim safely vary between individuals and require training.
- The breed is best suited to someone with enough space, time for coat care and a daily routine that works with a very large dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Newfoundland should be massive, powerful and well muscled without appearing heavy or clumsy. The body is slightly longer than it is tall, and movement should convey effortless power. The breed standard stresses that maximum size must never take priority over symmetry, sound construction and correct movement.

Males average about 71 centimetres at the withers and 68 kilograms; females average about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms. A suitable weight must still be judged from the individual dog's build, body condition and muscle mass.

The head is broad and the expression should convey gentleness. The large feet have webbing between the toes, and the powerful tail acts as a rudder when the dog swims.

The coat consists of medium-length, straight or slightly wavy outer hair and a soft, dense undercoat. The undercoat is usually thicker in winter but remains on parts of the body throughout the year. The colours are black, brown, and white and black. White and black is a colour within the Newfoundland breed; Landseer is also the name of a separate FCI-recognised breed and should not be confused with the colour description.

Base grooming frequency on the condition of the coat rather than a fixed weekly timetable. Work right down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, under the neck and around the hindquarters. If a comb catches, a tangle remains even when the surface looks smooth. More frequent grooming is needed during heavy shedding.

After bathing or swimming, rinse the coat when necessary and dry it thoroughly down to the skin. Check the ears, feet, skin and areas prone to matting at the same time. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it; there is no single correct interval. The breed standard does not encourage clipping that alters the natural coat.

Expect hair, water and often drool in the home. The Newfoundland is not allergy-free. The main dog allergens are found particularly in skin and saliva, and their levels vary between individual dogs regardless of breed or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Newfoundland is gentle, friendly and peaceful, but the phrase “gentle giant” describes an ideal rather than guaranteeing safety. Ask to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look for dogs that greet people calmly, recover when something unexpected happens and can be handled without marked stress.

The breed usually likes to remain close to its family and is often willing to cooperate when the task is clear and training is kind. An adolescent can nevertheless be strong, clumsy and slow to mature, so household manners need to begin early.

Children and Newfoundlands can live very well together, but the breed's reputation as a “nanny dog” must not be taken literally. A responsible adult should always supervise dogs and young children. Children need to leave the dog alone while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a private place where nobody follows it. An adult must also be able to control the dog on walks and stop over-excited play; a friendly dog weighing more than 50 kilograms can knock a child over without intending harm.

The same care applies to other dogs and cats. Keep initial meetings calm, give each animal its own resources and ensure that a smaller animal can move away. An individual dog's experience and behaviour matter more than claims that the breed automatically likes every animal.

A Newfoundland is not automatically a guard dog either. Its size may deter people, but sharpness and suspicion are not part of the breed ideal.

## Training & Exercise

Training should make the Newfoundland easy to guide before it becomes heavy enough to win a physical contest. Prioritise walking on a loose lead, waiting at doors, recall, calm greetings and allowing the feet, ears, mouth and coat to be examined. Practise car travel and veterinary visits too. Reward the behaviour you want and introduce distractions gradually.

There is no reliable number of minutes that suits every dog. An adult Newfoundland needs daily movement and mental activity adapted to its age, body condition, fitness, health and the temperature. Unhurried walks, scent work, everyday obedience, draught work and water work may all suit the breed. Lameness, clear stiffness or a deterioration after activity are reasons to reduce the load and seek veterinary advice when needed.

For a puppy, the aim is varied, self-directed movement and good body awareness rather than fitness training. Let the puppy explore safe surfaces, practise simple balance exercises close to the ground and take short walks at its own pace. Avoid repeated high jumps, long enforced distances and running beside a bicycle. Formulae that allow a fixed number of minutes per month of age do not account for the individual, terrain or intensity.

Water work is a documented part of the breed's function. Sweden's official water trial includes obedience on land, retrieving from water and towing a person or boat. These skills are trained; a dog is not a trained rescue dog simply because of its breed. Begin in calm, shallow water, never force a worried dog in, and check the temperature, current, bottom and exit points. The handler also needs to be able to swim in exercises where dog and handler work together in the water.

The heavy body and dense coat limit activity in hot weather. Choose cooler times and stop if the dog is recovering poorly. Swimming can provide low-impact exercise for a healthy dog, but cold water, exhaustion and a difficult exit are genuine hazards.

## Health

Hips, elbows, heart and urinary tract are important areas to check when choosing a Newfoundland. Health data reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy. Ask for both parents' registered names and check the results yourself rather than accepting that “tests have been done”.

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, occur in the breed. Under the Swedish Kennel Club registration rules effective from 1 January 2026, both parents must have an official HD result and an official ED result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. A known result means that it has been recorded; it does not mean that every result is normal. Dogs with ED grade 2 or 3 must not be bred from, nor may dogs with symptoms, a clinical ED diagnosis or surgery for ED, regardless of their recorded grade.

The breed's RAS breeding strategy from 2016 recommends stricter selection than the basic requirement for a recorded result: primarily HD A or B and ED 0, with specified exceptions. This dated breeding recommendation is distinct from today's binding registration requirements. Check the actual results and ask how the breeder justifies the pairing. The Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata service also shows results for close relatives.

The Swedish Newfoundland Club also highlights subaortic stenosis, SAS, a narrowing in the heart's outflow tract towards the aorta. A murmur can prompt investigation, but mild cases can be difficult to detect with a stethoscope alone; ultrasound gives a more reliable assessment. Ask how, when and by whom the heart was examined. An SAS examination is not a binding Swedish Kennel Club requirement in the same way as the breed's HD and ED results.

The Newfoundland also has a breed-specific, autosomal recessive form of cystinuria. It can cause raised levels of cystine in the urine and sometimes cystine stones, although not every genetically affected dog develops stones. A DNA test can distinguish clear, carrier and affected dogs. Ask to see the result and understand how the pairing avoids affected puppies. A dog that repeatedly tries to urinate but passes little or no urine needs emergency veterinary care; males have a higher risk of urethral obstruction.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus, GDV, is an emergency that mainly affects large and giant dogs. Its cause is probably multifactorial, so simple feeding or exercise rules cannot promise protection. Unproductive retching, heavy salivation, restlessness and a swelling abdomen are warning signs. Weakness, collapse or breathing difficulty make the situation still more urgent. Seek veterinary care immediately if you suspect GDV, and discuss the individual risk and preventive gastropexy before an emergency occurs.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition and seek advice for lameness, recurring stiffness, reduced stamina, fainting or pain. Check the skin and coat after they get wet. Do not avoid a veterinary visit because a problem is said to be “common in the breed”.

## History & Origins

The Newfoundland originated in Canada and is associated with work around the coast of Newfoundland. The official breed standard describes a dog used for heavy draught work and work in water. It states that the breed's type and working qualities were established by about 1610. The account of native dogs being crossed with large black dogs brought by Vikings is presented as a tradition, not proven ancestry.

The dogs worked alongside people where strength, swimming ability and stamina had practical value. The massive body, water-resistant coat, webbed feet and rudder-like tail suit that function. The breed's history does not, however, mean that every modern Newfoundland can rescue people without training.

Today, the Newfoundland is chiefly a companion. Water work continues through organised training and official trials, while some partnerships also take part in draught work.

## Living with the Breed

A Newfoundland requires more logistical planning than a medium-sized dog. Can it lie down without blocking walkways, get into the car, rest somewhere cool and be managed by an adult if it becomes ill or frightened? Slippery floors often need rugs, while numerous stairs can be difficult for a puppy, an injured dog or an older dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically unsuitable. Dogs exercise and train outdoors, but a giant dog can make a small home impractical. A lift, wide routes through the building, nearby toileting areas, how much sound carries to neighbours and the ability to keep the home cool matter more than the address. A house and garden do not replace walks, training or company.

The breed often wants to stay close to people, but time alone must be judged individually. An adult that has been trained gradually can usually remain alone for a few hours; a young puppy cannot. Increase the duration only when the dog can settle, and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is longer than the individual can manage. Persistent barking, pacing, damage or severe distress show that the arrangement needs to change.

Plan for regular grooming, cleaning, a large space in the car and higher food, insurance and veterinary costs. A harness or collar, travel restraint and bed must all work for the individual dog's size.

A Newfoundland may suit a first-time owner who seeks help early and can genuinely manage the size, but it is not an easy choice simply because its temperament is described as gentle. A suitable owner enjoys close cooperation, accepts hair and drool, trains consistently without harshness and can adjust activity for heat and health. If those conditions sound realistic, the breed can be a calm and engaged member of the family. If space, physical control or grooming already seem doubtful, a smaller dog is the wiser choice.

Newfoundland

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Newfoundland is a giant, water‑loving working dog with a dense, heavy‑shedding coat and notable drooling. Calm, loyal, and gentle with children, it needs close family contact, kind training, moderate exercise, careful grooming, space, and proactive health care for joints, heart, and bloat.

Lill Ann Sylstad driver oppdrett av newfoundlandshund i Skiptvet under kennelnavnet Lasydog's. Ved siden av oppdrettet er hun leder i Norsk Newfoundlandshundklubb og klubbens kontaktperson hos Norsk Kennel Klub. Hunder fra Lasydog's har oppnådd flere offisielle utstillingsresultater. I 2024 vant en hund fra oppdrettet FCI-gruppe 2 på en NKK-utstilling i Rogaland. En hund fra Lasydog's hadde innen 2025 oppnådd internasjonalt juniorchampionat, norsk og svensk utstillingschampionat og nordisk juniorvinnertittel fra 2023.

Lill Ann Sylstad

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small but powerful herding and cattle dog that is now kept mainly as an active companion. It is best suited to someone who wants to combine walks with everyday training, scent work or other forms of mental activity.

- Height at the withers: approximately 25–30 centimetres
- Breed-standard weight: 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females
- Country of origin: Great Britain, with the breed’s working history rooted in Wales
- Coat: a medium-length double coat that sheds, particularly during heavier seasonal moults
- Temperament: the ideal is a bold, alert and friendly dog, but individuals vary considerably
- Lifespan: the Swedish breed club describes many dogs as reaching 12–14 years, although health and longevity vary

The Pembroke and the Welsh Corgi Cardigan are two separate breeds, not varieties of the same breed. They differ in features such as size, colour and tail. Do not choose between them on the strength of simplistic claims that one is always calmer or more sociable.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke should be low-set, strong and sturdily built without appearing heavy or restricted. The body is medium in length, the chest is broad and deep, and the ears are upright. Despite its short legs, a healthy Pembroke should move freely and actively.

The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25–30 centimetres, a weight of 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females. These figures are guidelines, not the correct target weight for every dog. Body condition and muscle mass must also be considered.

The coat has straight, medium-length outer hair and a dense undercoat. Permitted colours are red, sable, fawn, and black and tan. They may appear with or without white on the legs, chest and neck; a small amount of white on the head and muzzle is also allowed.

Older descriptions can give the impression that every Pembroke has a short tail. In fact, puppies may be born with a full tail or a natural bobtail of varying length. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden unless it is medically necessary. A docked dog is therefore not Swedish-bred, so its origin and import documents should be checked carefully.

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is generally a little taller, has a long, fox-like tail and comes in a wider range of permitted colours. Colour or personality cannot identify the breed reliably; the pedigree establishes which breed the dog belongs to.

The coat does not require trimming. Brush it regularly and brush through the undercoat when shedding increases. This removes loose hair and makes changes in the skin easier to spot. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than to a fixed timetable. Calmly accustom the puppy to brushing, nail care and tooth brushing.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a bold, workmanlike, outgoing and friendly dog. However, the Swedish Kennel Club’s current BPH behaviour analysis shows considerable variation among the dogs assessed. Some greet strangers enthusiastically, while others show much less interest. A breed description therefore cannot predict exactly how any particular puppy will develop.

The Pembroke’s background as a farm and cattle dog is often reflected in watchfulness, quick reactions and an ability to make its own decisions. Many enjoy working with their owner, but some need more practice to choose the handler over events in their surroundings. This can make the breed rewarding to train, although everyday cooperation should not be taken for granted.

The Swedish Kennel Club highlights possible tendencies to guard, bark and nip at heels. The last of these is linked to the breed’s historical work close to the hind legs of cattle, but herding behaviour is not identical in every dog. Nipping at running children, feet or trouser legs should still be stopped early. Reward calm contact, attentiveness and choosing an appropriate task instead.

Vocal behaviour also varies. A Pembroke may react to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or anticipation, but the breed name alone does not determine whether barking will become a problem. Ask how the puppy’s parents and close relatives behave at home. Establish calm routines around the door, visitors and rest from the outset.

For a family with children, the right individual and a well-managed routine matter more than the label “family dog”. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes or miles will not suit every dog. Age, health, fitness and what the walk involves all matter more than a standard timetable.

A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that requires concentration, such as searching for food, tracking or learning practical skills. Balance calm activities with movement and planned rest. A dog that runs a great deal but never learns to settle may still find it difficult to relax.

Start early with recall, loose-lead walking, impulse control and a calm cue that interrupts barking or nipping. Reward-based training makes the desired choice clear to the dog. Keep sessions focused and finish while the dog is still engaged rather than repeating the same exercise until interest fades.

The breed may enjoy obedience, rally, tracking, scent work and agility. Choose an activity to suit the individual dog’s body and motivation. Not every Pembroke has herding ability simply because the breed historically worked cattle; these qualities must be assessed in the individual.

Short legs are not a reason to treat a healthy adult dog as fragile. Build fitness and muscle gradually and provide good grip on slippery floors. Adjust exercise for puppies, older dogs and dogs recovering from injury. Sudden pain, reluctance to move, lameness or weakness calls for veterinary assessment, not blanket advice about stairs or ramps.

## Health

The Swedish breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as a generally healthy breed, but buyers should still check hips, eyes and documented health in the family. It is important to distinguish between registration requirements, breed-club advice and DNA tests that happen to be available.

Since January 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club has required both parents to have an official hip status before mating if their puppies are to be registered. Ask to see the results and how the breeder evaluated the proposed pairing; “X-rayed” does not mean that the result was clear.

Svenska Welsh Corgi Klubben, the Swedish breed club, also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination before mating. Ask for current results for both parents and about eye findings in close relatives. The club also monitors lameness and premature closure of the ulna, known as short ulna, which can cause the front leg to develop abnormally. A young dog with an increasingly turned-out foot, a curved foreleg or lameness should be examined promptly by a vet.

DNA tests for degenerative myelopathy, or DM, and von Willebrand disease type 1 are available for the breed, but their results must be interpreted correctly. The current Swedish breeding strategy describes the DM test as a risk test and does not recommend routine testing, because it does not give the complete clinical picture and the disease has not been documented as a major problem among Swedish dogs. For vWD type 1, the breed club withdrew its previous routine-testing advice after a review with the Swedish Kennel Club’s DNA group. A laboratory result does not in itself prove that a dog is ill or will become ill. Ask the breeder why a test was performed and how its result was balanced against other aspects of health and genetic diversity.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition throughout life. A clear waist should be visible from above, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Weigh the dog regularly, but do not let the figures in the breed standard replace a proper body-condition assessment. Consult a vet if weight changes without a clear reason or the dog needs a structured weight-loss programme.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke developed in Wales as a farm and herding dog, but its earliest origins have not been conclusively established. Theories involving Flemish weavers, Nordic spitz-type dogs and a relationship with the Swedish Vallhund should be treated as theories rather than settled history.

Its documented work on Welsh farms explains the breed more clearly. Pembrokes helped move cattle to and from barns, guarded farms and performed several other duties. As heelers, they drove cattle while working close to the animals’ hind legs. The task demanded alertness, mobility and determination, as well as both independence and cooperation.

Pembrokes and Cardigans developed their own distinctive features in Wales but were long treated collectively as Welsh Corgis. They were separated into two breeds in 1934. The FCI lists the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as breed number 39 in Group 1 for sheepdogs and cattle dogs.

In Sweden, Pembrokes live almost entirely as companion dogs, although some still herd. Their working heritage is more often expressed through dog sports, scent work and an everyday life in which they solve tasks with their owner.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Pembroke can live in a flat, terraced house or detached home if its routine provides enough activity, rest and companionship. Its low height does not make it inactive, and a garden cannot replace walks or training. In a flat, it is particularly important to work early on calm responses to sounds in shared areas, movement outside windows and activity at the door.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief periods and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed. Puppies and anxious dogs need particular care. Dogs also need to be taken out regularly during the day, so anyone working long hours must plan for company and daytime walks.

The breed can live with other dogs or cats, but compatibility depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give a cat dog-free places and a clear escape route, keep early meetings controlled and prevent chasing. Small pets should be protected from stress and physical contact. Previous experience with another species is useful information, but it cannot guarantee the next relationship.

The Pembroke can suit a first-time owner who enjoys training and can be consistent without using harsh methods. It is less suitable for someone who wants a dog content with very short walks, that sheds little, or that will automatically be quiet and compliant.

The breed has grown markedly in Sweden. Careful checks become even more important as a breed gains popularity. Meet the breeder and the puppy’s mother, and verify registration, microchip details, the veterinary examination certificate and official health results. If the dog is imported or has a docked tail, its origin and import documents should be clear. A sound decision rests on records, open answers and how the dogs actually behave, not photographs or promises of a particular temperament.

Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Association Française du Corgi

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small, sturdy herding dog with short legs, a fox-like face, and a weather-resistant double coat that sheds year-round. Intelligent, active, and people-oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, kind training, and careful weight and back management.

Spydebergspoten driver oppdrett av welsh corgi pembroke i Spydeberg. Kennelen ble etablert i 2022, og oppdrettet omfatter også welsh corgi cardigan. Cardigan ble en del av hundeholdet i 2021, etterfulgt av pembroke året etter. Spydebergspoten deltar jevnlig på utstillinger som en del av evalueringen av avlsarbeidet. I 2026 ble en hund fra oppdrettet kåret til beste baby i welsh corgi pembroke på en offisiell DKK-utstilling. Hundene er en naturlig del av familien og får tett oppfølging i hverdagen.

Spydebergspoten

## Quick Facts

The Border Collie is a British sheepdog for someone who wants to work with, train and give their dog meaningful tasks throughout its life. The breed is highly trainable and has great stamina, but those same qualities often make it more demanding than a dog bred primarily for companionship.

- **Dog type:** purebred sheepdog, recognised by the FCI in Group 1
- **Size:** medium; the ideal height for males is about 53 cm, with females usually slightly shorter
- **Weight:** approximately 12–20 kg, with variation according to sex and build
- **Life expectancy:** approximately 10–15 years
- **Coat:** smooth or moderately long double coat in many colours
- **Typical traits:** alert, biddable, responsive, intelligent and strongly motivated to work
- **Best suited to:** a committed owner who enjoys regular training and can teach both activity and rest

The key question before buying is not whether the family walks for a set number of hours, but whether daily life allows time for regular training and cooperation. A Border Collie needs to use its brain, express its herding instincts in controlled ways and also learn to settle at home.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Collie is an athletic, well-balanced dog, built for agility and sustained work rather than for a uniform appearance. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, smooth and efficient. The breed standard gives an ideal height of 53 cm for males and slightly less for females, although both size and build vary noticeably within the breed.

The standard describes two coat varieties: smooth and moderately long. Both have a dense, medium-textured outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat that provides weather resistance. The moderately long coat forms more of a mane, breeching and brush, while the smooth coat lies closer to the body. Many colours and markings occur; black and white and tricolour are common, but the standard permits considerable variety provided white does not predominate.

The coat is basically straightforward to maintain. Brush as often as needed to remove loose undercoat and prevent matting, particularly behind the ears and in areas of feathering. More frequent brushing is needed during periods of heavier shedding. Bathe when necessary. A dog that works or trains outdoors should also be checked afterwards: examine the paws, nails, skin and coat for injuries, grass awns, ticks and debris.

## Temperament & Personality

The Border Collie is attentive, cooperative and extremely quick to notice patterns. It therefore learns not only what its owner intends to teach, but also which sounds predict a walk, how people normally move and which behaviours produce a response. Highly trainable does not automatically mean easy to live with; unclear routines and accidental rewards can establish behaviour just as quickly as considered training.

Herding depends on the dog noticing and influencing movement. In everyday life without sheep, the same sensitivity can be directed towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals. Staring, stalking, cutting off a path and chasing are signals to address early. They should be interrupted calmly and replaced with a trained alternative, not encouraged as an amusing quirk.

A Border Collie can live successfully in a family, but the breed is not universally “good with children” regardless of the individual and environment. Running, shouting and fast play can trigger herding behaviour or stress. Children and dogs therefore need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Living with a cat or other dogs can also work, especially with thoughtful introductions, but cannot be guaranteed on the basis of breed alone. The cat should be able to withdraw and the dog should be taught to leave it alone.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Collie needs both physical activity and tasks requiring concentration every day, but it is not possible to specify a number of hours that suits every individual. Age, health, temperament, previous training and work determine the appropriate load. A good routine alternates movement, problem-solving, cooperation and recovery.

Walks in varied surroundings, free movement where it is safe, scent work, obedience, tracking, herding and other dog sports engage the dog in different ways. Choose activities in which the dog must listen and make decisions, not merely run quickly. Endless ball throwing or other highly arousing repetition is a poor measure of whether the dog’s needs have been met; it can increase anticipation without teaching the dog to settle.

Keep training sessions short, clear and reward based. Give everyday skills such as recall, lead walking, stopping at a distance and disengaging from movement as much attention as tricks or competitive exercises. Reward calm behaviour too: lying in a designated place, waiting while something happens and sleeping after activity. A Border Collie that is always offered more high-speed activity can become extremely fit without learning how to rest.

Puppies and young dogs need controlled experiences, not a miniature version of an adult training schedule. Build confidence in different environments, allow the body to mature and increase physical load and difficulty gradually. If the dog becomes more scattered, noise-sensitive or fixated despite receiving more activity, the answer may be a better balance and professional help rather than still harder exercise.

## Health

The Border Collie is regarded as comparatively healthy, but the breed has documented conditions that a puppy buyer should understand. Hip dysplasia (HD), Collie eye anomaly (CEA), other retinal changes, epilepsy and osteochondrosis affecting mainly the shoulder are among the areas highlighted by the Swedish Kennel Club and the Swedish Sheepdog Society.

When assessing a Swedish-registered litter, start by checking the parents’ official hip status and eye examination. Under Swedish Kennel Club rules, the eye result must be recorded before mating and would normally be no more than one year old. Check the registered results and also ask about epilepsy, recurring seizures, shoulder problems and early deaths among siblings, parents and other close relatives. Normal results for two parents do not describe the health of an entire family line.

DNA tests are available for several inherited conditions in the breed, including CEA, IGS, TNS and sensory neuropathy. Which tests are relevant depends on ancestry and current recommendations. Ask the breeder to explain what has been tested and why. For recessive diseases, a healthy carrier is not the same as an affected dog; what matters is planning the mating so puppies cannot inherit the disease variant from both parents. A DNA test does not replace a clinical eye examination, joint results or knowledge of the wider family.

A dog with Border Collie collapse (BCC) may be completely symptom-free at rest but become disorientated, unsteady or fall during or shortly after intense activity. The dog may appear to recover after 5–30 minutes, but any collapse must be taken seriously and assessed by a vet. BCC is not the same as ordinary fatigue, heatstroke or the dynamin-1-related EIC variant more commonly seen in Labrador Retrievers. Stop the activity immediately if the dog’s focus or movement changes abnormally.

## History & Origins

The Border Collie developed in the border country between England and Scotland as a working dog for sheep farming. Selection was based for a long time on practical herding ability: the dog needed to read livestock, work at a distance and respond to its handler’s signals in demanding conditions. This functional background explains the breed’s eye, stalking movement, endurance and strong drive to control movement.

The FCI recognises the Border Collie as a British sheepdog subject to a working trial. In Sweden, function also has an unusually explicit place in registration. The breed is entered in the Swedish Kennel Club’s dedicated sheepdog register, REG V, and a Swedish-born Border Collie can only be registered when both parents have passed a herding trial held by Svenska Vallhundsklubben (SVaK) or have an approved equivalent qualification from abroad. Appearance can consequently vary more than in many other breeds, while working ability remains central to the Swedish breeding model.

## Living with the Breed

Living well with a Border Collie requires planning, but not constant entertainment. The goal is a dog that can work with focus when needed and rest when nothing is happening. That balance is best suited to a home where someone genuinely enjoys dog training and where responsibility does not depend on children exercising the dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically ruled out, and a large garden does not guarantee a good life. Access to suitable training environments, safe exercise and a routine that can genuinely be maintained matter more. In a busy area, the owner must be able to manage traffic, bicycles, runners, sounds and encounters without the dog becoming stuck in herding or constant vigilance.

Time alone should be trained gradually, beginning with very short periods and adjusted to the dog’s age and reactions. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a promise that a dog will be comfortable alone for that long. Consider filming early sessions and step back if the dog paces, pants, barks, damages things or cannot settle. A routine involving repeated long working days without help is a poor starting point for this breed.

Before buying a Swedish puppy, check at least three things for both parents: a registered hip status, a valid eye result and a pass in an approved herding trial. Then ask about epilepsy and joint health in close relatives, relevant DNA tests, how the parents behave both at rest and at work, and what support the breeder provides after the purchase. The best match is not about finding the “cleverest” puppy, but choosing one whose temperament and working drive suit what you can offer throughout the dog’s life.

Border Collie

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Border Collie is a medium, athletic herding dog known for intense focus, high intelligence and very high energy. Developed to work sheep all day, it excels in herding, sports and training. It needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and structured guidance in an active home.

Selena Johanna Lous Persson er oppdretter av border collie i Båstad. Oppdrettet omfatter hunder født i mars 2022. Hunder fra oppdrettet har vært representert i ulike klasser ved NKK-utstillinger. Én deltok i juniorklasse i Kristiansand i april 2023, mens to var ført opp i åpen klasse ved en NKK-utstilling samme sted i april 2024. Oppdrettet har også vært representert i rallylydighet. Innen juli 2024 var en hund oppdrettet av henne registrert med rallylydighetstitler til og med RLE.

Selena Johanna Lous Persson

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Mariela Mitrikova

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Arnulf Ingolf Eliseussen er whippetoppdretter i Hafslundsøy og står bak kennelnavnet Cayahoga. Oppdrettet omfatter whippeter med fødselsår tilbake til 2017, i tillegg til hunder født i 2024. Cayahoga var representert i oppdretterklasse ved Norsk Whippetklubbs utstilling i Mjøndalen i 2025. En whippet fra oppdrettet har tittelen norsk utstillingschampion. Eliseussen har også hatt verv i raseklubben. I 2020 hadde han vært nestleder i Norsk Whippetklubb i to år og stilte da til gjenvalg.

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