## Quick Facts

In Sweden, the Collie is registered as two separate breeds: the Rough Collie, FCI 156, and the Smooth Collie, FCI 296. They are often discussed together because they share a recent ancestry, the same height range and a similar build, but have different coats. The Border Collie, however, is a different breed with its own standard.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with strong historical links to Scotland.
- **Roles:** herding dog, working dog and companion.
- **Height:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females in both breeds.
- **Weight:** the Smooth Collie standard gives 20.5–29.5 kg for males and 18–25 kg for females. The Rough Collie standard gives no official weight.
- **Colours:** sable and white, tricolour and blue merle.
- **Longevity:** in a large UK study, the median for Collies as a combined category was 13.3 years. This is a figure for a large population, not a prediction for an individual dog.

A Collie is best suited to someone who wants an active life with a responsive dog and is prepared to examine temperament as carefully as appearance. Coat length makes a clear difference to grooming, but does not reliably predict how energetic, confident or easy-going an individual dog will be.

## Appearance & Coat

The Collie is agile and well balanced, combining strength and mobility without looking heavy or coarse. The long, blunt wedge-shaped head, almond-shaped eyes and ears that tip forwards help create the characteristic expression. Both breeds have the same official height range. The Smooth Collie weight range should not be treated as an official guide for the Rough Collie, whose standard does not specify a weight.

The Rough Collie has a very dense double coat. The outer coat should be straight and harsh, while the undercoat is soft, woolly and dense enough almost to hide the skin. The mane, chest, legs and tail carry more abundant hair. Brush through to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath the collar. More frequent combing is needed during a moult. Bathe when necessary.

The Smooth Collie has a short, straight, harsh outer coat with a very dense undercoat. It is much easier to keep free of tangles, but it still sheds. Brushing during a moult removes loose hair and is also an opportunity to check the skin, paws and nails. The coat should not need trimming or clipping to remain manageable.

Both breeds come in sable and white, tricolour and blue merle. White markings may appear on the collar, chest, legs, feet and tail tip, among other places. Colour is a poor basis for choosing a puppy; health, temperament, everyday behaviour and the breeder’s aims matter more.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, active and cooperative dog with no nervousness or aggression. Many Collies learn quickly, pay close attention to their handler and enjoy being part of daily life. That is an excellent foundation for training, but it does not guarantee that every Collie will be confident, quiet, uncomplicated around children or easy for a first-time owner.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines, and fearfulness has been an important focus in Swedish breeding work. Ask for more than general descriptions such as ‘sweet’ or ‘sensitive’. Examine the parents’ full MH behaviour descriptions, meet adult relatives if possible, and ask how the dogs react to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces and surprises. How quickly they recover is just as important.

The Collie has a dedicated mental index based on the dog’s own MH results and those of its relatives. There are indices for curiosity/confidence, sociability, play, chase and gunshot response. A value of 100 represents the breed average; it is not a pass mark. An index should be considered alongside the full description, the wider family and the type of home or work for which the litter was bred.

The standards and the Swedish Kennel Club describe Collies as friendly towards dogs and people, but experience, health and training also shape behaviour at home. Assess the individual rather than treating coat length or breed name as a guarantee of personality.

## Training & Exercise

A Collie needs daily physical activity and tasks that make use of cooperation, concentration and curiosity. No credible number of minutes can suit a puppy, an adult competition dog and a senior equally well. Adjust effort and difficulty to the dog’s age, health, experience and recovery.

Combine walks with activities such as tracking, search work, obedience, rally, agility or simple scent games at home. Variety is more valuable than merely increasing speed or distance. Teach the dog to wait and settle as well; an active dog does not need to remain highly aroused all day.

Reward-based training, clear cues and gradually harder tasks suit a dog that enjoys working with people. Break new skills into manageable steps, reward good choices and make the exercise easier if the dog becomes uncertain or loses concentration. Harsh corrections are not a shortcut to confidence.

A Collie can suit a first-time owner who wants to train, can recognise early signs of worry and chooses a litter on the strength of documented temperament. It is a poorer match for someone drawn mainly to the appearance, looking for a fixed exercise timetable or expecting the dog to entertain itself in a garden.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the actual results matter more than being told that the parents are ‘tested’. Ask for registration numbers and check hip results, MH records, eye findings and any relevant DNA results. Registration requirements and breeding recommendations are not the same thing.

For both Collie breeds, current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules require both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. Smooth Collie breeding dogs should have grade A or B hips. A Rough Collie with grade D or E must not be used for breeding, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a combined parental hip index above 100. The rules therefore differ between the two breeds.

The rules also require a known mental status. For resident Swedish parents born in 2016 or later, the full MH behaviour description must be completed and all 33 positions recorded. The handler may decline the gunshot element without the dog losing its known-status designation. MH describes reactions; the dog does not pass or fail it.

Collie Eye Anomaly, or CEA, is a congenital developmental abnormality affecting the back of the eye. It ranges from CH/CRD, which often causes no vision problem noticeable in daily life, to coloboma and rarer consequences such as bleeding or retinal detachment. Do not ask only whether a dog has been ‘CEA tested’; request the exact diagnosis and the age at examination.

Current Swedish registration rules do not impose a specific eye-examination requirement on Collies. The breed club nevertheless recommends that puppies are examined before leaving the breeder and that breeding dogs are examined again as adults. The Swedish Kennel Club explains that CH/CRD is best detected in young puppies, usually at 8–10 weeks, and recommends an adult examination before first mating in at-risk breeds.

A variant in the ABCB1 gene, commonly called MDR1, can make a dog sensitive to certain medicines. Testing is relevant for both Rough and Smooth Collies. Dogs with two copies are at greatest risk, but a dog with one copy may also react. Keep the result and show it to the vet before medication is given. The test addresses this particular drug sensitivity; it is not a general certificate of health.

The Swedish Kennel Club does not permit registration of puppies produced by mating two merle Collies. Merle combined with sable is also subject to specific rules on DNA status and breeding restrictions. A puppy buyer should therefore ask how the parents’ colours and any merle variant have been established, rather than choosing solely by the puppy’s markings.

## History & Origins

The Collie is a British breed with strong Scottish associations, although its precise early origin is uncertain. The breed standard describes a background in which local dogs mixed with dogs brought to Scotland by the Romans. Rough and Smooth Collies developed from the same working stock and shared bloodlines until relatively recent times.

Collies were first shown in England in 1861. Queen Victoria’s interest later helped make them fashionable as companions and show dogs. Their working ability remained important: the elegant build and responsiveness make more sense when seen in the context of a herding and working dog, not merely an appearance ideal.

During the twentieth century, the Rough Collie in particular became closely associated with the fictional Lassie. Eric Knight created the character in *Lassie Come-Home*, and the 1943 film used a Rough Collie. The stories shaped a heroic image of the breed, but a real dog must be judged by its own temperament, health and upbringing.

## Living with the Breed

A Collie can live in a flat or a house when given enough activity, rest and company. A garden does not replace walks and shared tasks. In a block of flats, the owner should also teach calm behaviour around sounds in communal areas and prevent the dog from spending all day watching the window or front door.

An adult should supervise time with children, set clear rules and provide a resting place where the dog will not be disturbed. Children should not climb on or hug the dog, or bother it while it is eating or sleeping. Even a friendly dog can feel trapped, and an enthusiastic Collie may accidentally knock over a small child during play.

Many Collies can live with other dogs and cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Prevent chasing, give the cat clear escape routes and do not leave the animals alone together until their relationship is settled. Small pets need secure accommodation that the dog cannot enter or watch from close range.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. Start with very brief periods when the puppy feels safe and is calm, and increase the duration only when it can settle. The amount of time an adult dog can manage varies; use the dog’s behaviour rather than a general maximum as your guide.

Before buying, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- Is the litter Rough or Smooth, and what are adult relatives like to live with?
- What are the parents’ hip results and, for a Rough Collie, their current hip indices?
- Have both parents completed MH, and what do MH, mental index and close relatives show about fearfulness and recovery?
- When were the puppies and parents examined by an eye specialist, and what exact CEA findings were recorded?
- What is each parent’s MDR1 status, and does the mating involve merle?

Coat length alone should not decide the choice. Look for a litter whose health, temperament and everyday behaviour across the wider family can be checked.

Collie

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Collie Association (UK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Collie is an intelligent, medium‑large herding dog with a long double coat needing regular grooming. Gentle, loyal, and sensitive, it bonds closely with family and prefers kind training. Adaptable to town or country, it needs daily mental stimulation and exercise to stay content.

Lisbeth Petrine Kristin Nilsen driver oppdrett av rasen Collie og holder til i Eidsberg i Norge.

Lisbeth Petrine Kristin Nilsen

Finnish Hound

Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Finnish Hound Association

Finnish Kennel Club (Kennelliitto)

Finnish Hound (Finsk stövare): medium‑large, athletic Scandinavian scenthound with an easy‑care tricolour coat. Calm and affectionate indoors when well exercised; energetic, vocal, and independent on the trail. Bred for hare and fox, needs substantial outdoor activity and consistent training.

Vegard Grav driver oppdrett av rasen Finsk støver og holder til i Spydeberg i Norge.

Vegard Grav

Truls Fredriksen driver oppdrett av rasen Finsk støver og holder til i Mysen i Norge.

Truls Fredriksen

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Laila Johansen driver oppdrett av rasen Mellompuddel og holder til i Ås i Norge. Oppdrettet av mellompuddel har pågått siden 2016.

Laila Johansen

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Norwegian Kennel Club

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Christina Hagenes Brekke driver oppdrett av rasen Whippet og holder til i Sellebakk i Norge.

Christina Hagenes Brekke

## Quick Facts

- The Newfoundland is a Canadian giant breed developed for heavy draught work and work in water. Today, it is mainly kept as a companion and water dog.
- The breed ideal is gentle, friendly and peaceful. This describes the aim of responsible breeding, not the automatic behaviour of every dog.
- An adult male averages about 71 centimetres in height and 68 kilograms in weight. The corresponding averages for females are about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms.
- The medium-length double coat is dense and water-resistant. The recognised colours are black, brown, and white and black.
- Its size makes early lead training, calm greetings and confident handling essential.
- Sweden has an official water trial for the breed, but interest in water and the ability to swim safely vary between individuals and require training.
- The breed is best suited to someone with enough space, time for coat care and a daily routine that works with a very large dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Newfoundland should be massive, powerful and well muscled without appearing heavy or clumsy. The body is slightly longer than it is tall, and movement should convey effortless power. The breed standard stresses that maximum size must never take priority over symmetry, sound construction and correct movement.

Males average about 71 centimetres at the withers and 68 kilograms; females average about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms. A suitable weight must still be judged from the individual dog's build, body condition and muscle mass.

The head is broad and the expression should convey gentleness. The large feet have webbing between the toes, and the powerful tail acts as a rudder when the dog swims.

The coat consists of medium-length, straight or slightly wavy outer hair and a soft, dense undercoat. The undercoat is usually thicker in winter but remains on parts of the body throughout the year. The colours are black, brown, and white and black. White and black is a colour within the Newfoundland breed; Landseer is also the name of a separate FCI-recognised breed and should not be confused with the colour description.

Base grooming frequency on the condition of the coat rather than a fixed weekly timetable. Work right down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, under the neck and around the hindquarters. If a comb catches, a tangle remains even when the surface looks smooth. More frequent grooming is needed during heavy shedding.

After bathing or swimming, rinse the coat when necessary and dry it thoroughly down to the skin. Check the ears, feet, skin and areas prone to matting at the same time. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it; there is no single correct interval. The breed standard does not encourage clipping that alters the natural coat.

Expect hair, water and often drool in the home. The Newfoundland is not allergy-free. The main dog allergens are found particularly in skin and saliva, and their levels vary between individual dogs regardless of breed or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Newfoundland is gentle, friendly and peaceful, but the phrase “gentle giant” describes an ideal rather than guaranteeing safety. Ask to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look for dogs that greet people calmly, recover when something unexpected happens and can be handled without marked stress.

The breed usually likes to remain close to its family and is often willing to cooperate when the task is clear and training is kind. An adolescent can nevertheless be strong, clumsy and slow to mature, so household manners need to begin early.

Children and Newfoundlands can live very well together, but the breed's reputation as a “nanny dog” must not be taken literally. A responsible adult should always supervise dogs and young children. Children need to leave the dog alone while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a private place where nobody follows it. An adult must also be able to control the dog on walks and stop over-excited play; a friendly dog weighing more than 50 kilograms can knock a child over without intending harm.

The same care applies to other dogs and cats. Keep initial meetings calm, give each animal its own resources and ensure that a smaller animal can move away. An individual dog's experience and behaviour matter more than claims that the breed automatically likes every animal.

A Newfoundland is not automatically a guard dog either. Its size may deter people, but sharpness and suspicion are not part of the breed ideal.

## Training & Exercise

Training should make the Newfoundland easy to guide before it becomes heavy enough to win a physical contest. Prioritise walking on a loose lead, waiting at doors, recall, calm greetings and allowing the feet, ears, mouth and coat to be examined. Practise car travel and veterinary visits too. Reward the behaviour you want and introduce distractions gradually.

There is no reliable number of minutes that suits every dog. An adult Newfoundland needs daily movement and mental activity adapted to its age, body condition, fitness, health and the temperature. Unhurried walks, scent work, everyday obedience, draught work and water work may all suit the breed. Lameness, clear stiffness or a deterioration after activity are reasons to reduce the load and seek veterinary advice when needed.

For a puppy, the aim is varied, self-directed movement and good body awareness rather than fitness training. Let the puppy explore safe surfaces, practise simple balance exercises close to the ground and take short walks at its own pace. Avoid repeated high jumps, long enforced distances and running beside a bicycle. Formulae that allow a fixed number of minutes per month of age do not account for the individual, terrain or intensity.

Water work is a documented part of the breed's function. Sweden's official water trial includes obedience on land, retrieving from water and towing a person or boat. These skills are trained; a dog is not a trained rescue dog simply because of its breed. Begin in calm, shallow water, never force a worried dog in, and check the temperature, current, bottom and exit points. The handler also needs to be able to swim in exercises where dog and handler work together in the water.

The heavy body and dense coat limit activity in hot weather. Choose cooler times and stop if the dog is recovering poorly. Swimming can provide low-impact exercise for a healthy dog, but cold water, exhaustion and a difficult exit are genuine hazards.

## Health

Hips, elbows, heart and urinary tract are important areas to check when choosing a Newfoundland. Health data reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy. Ask for both parents' registered names and check the results yourself rather than accepting that “tests have been done”.

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, occur in the breed. Under the Swedish Kennel Club registration rules effective from 1 January 2026, both parents must have an official HD result and an official ED result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. A known result means that it has been recorded; it does not mean that every result is normal. Dogs with ED grade 2 or 3 must not be bred from, nor may dogs with symptoms, a clinical ED diagnosis or surgery for ED, regardless of their recorded grade.

The breed's RAS breeding strategy from 2016 recommends stricter selection than the basic requirement for a recorded result: primarily HD A or B and ED 0, with specified exceptions. This dated breeding recommendation is distinct from today's binding registration requirements. Check the actual results and ask how the breeder justifies the pairing. The Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata service also shows results for close relatives.

The Swedish Newfoundland Club also highlights subaortic stenosis, SAS, a narrowing in the heart's outflow tract towards the aorta. A murmur can prompt investigation, but mild cases can be difficult to detect with a stethoscope alone; ultrasound gives a more reliable assessment. Ask how, when and by whom the heart was examined. An SAS examination is not a binding Swedish Kennel Club requirement in the same way as the breed's HD and ED results.

The Newfoundland also has a breed-specific, autosomal recessive form of cystinuria. It can cause raised levels of cystine in the urine and sometimes cystine stones, although not every genetically affected dog develops stones. A DNA test can distinguish clear, carrier and affected dogs. Ask to see the result and understand how the pairing avoids affected puppies. A dog that repeatedly tries to urinate but passes little or no urine needs emergency veterinary care; males have a higher risk of urethral obstruction.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus, GDV, is an emergency that mainly affects large and giant dogs. Its cause is probably multifactorial, so simple feeding or exercise rules cannot promise protection. Unproductive retching, heavy salivation, restlessness and a swelling abdomen are warning signs. Weakness, collapse or breathing difficulty make the situation still more urgent. Seek veterinary care immediately if you suspect GDV, and discuss the individual risk and preventive gastropexy before an emergency occurs.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition and seek advice for lameness, recurring stiffness, reduced stamina, fainting or pain. Check the skin and coat after they get wet. Do not avoid a veterinary visit because a problem is said to be “common in the breed”.

## History & Origins

The Newfoundland originated in Canada and is associated with work around the coast of Newfoundland. The official breed standard describes a dog used for heavy draught work and work in water. It states that the breed's type and working qualities were established by about 1610. The account of native dogs being crossed with large black dogs brought by Vikings is presented as a tradition, not proven ancestry.

The dogs worked alongside people where strength, swimming ability and stamina had practical value. The massive body, water-resistant coat, webbed feet and rudder-like tail suit that function. The breed's history does not, however, mean that every modern Newfoundland can rescue people without training.

Today, the Newfoundland is chiefly a companion. Water work continues through organised training and official trials, while some partnerships also take part in draught work.

## Living with the Breed

A Newfoundland requires more logistical planning than a medium-sized dog. Can it lie down without blocking walkways, get into the car, rest somewhere cool and be managed by an adult if it becomes ill or frightened? Slippery floors often need rugs, while numerous stairs can be difficult for a puppy, an injured dog or an older dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically unsuitable. Dogs exercise and train outdoors, but a giant dog can make a small home impractical. A lift, wide routes through the building, nearby toileting areas, how much sound carries to neighbours and the ability to keep the home cool matter more than the address. A house and garden do not replace walks, training or company.

The breed often wants to stay close to people, but time alone must be judged individually. An adult that has been trained gradually can usually remain alone for a few hours; a young puppy cannot. Increase the duration only when the dog can settle, and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is longer than the individual can manage. Persistent barking, pacing, damage or severe distress show that the arrangement needs to change.

Plan for regular grooming, cleaning, a large space in the car and higher food, insurance and veterinary costs. A harness or collar, travel restraint and bed must all work for the individual dog's size.

A Newfoundland may suit a first-time owner who seeks help early and can genuinely manage the size, but it is not an easy choice simply because its temperament is described as gentle. A suitable owner enjoys close cooperation, accepts hair and drool, trains consistently without harshness and can adjust activity for heat and health. If those conditions sound realistic, the breed can be a calm and engaged member of the family. If space, physical control or grooming already seem doubtful, a smaller dog is the wiser choice.

Newfoundland

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Newfoundland is a giant, water‑loving working dog with a dense, heavy‑shedding coat and notable drooling. Calm, loyal, and gentle with children, it needs close family contact, kind training, moderate exercise, careful grooming, space, and proactive health care for joints, heart, and bloat.

Sølvi Jane Schjelderup driver oppdrett av rasen Newfoundlandshund og holder til i Spydeberg i Norge.

Sølvi Jane Schjelderup

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Støtvigen driver oppdrett av rasen Golden retriever og holder til i Nykirke i Norge. Oppdrettet startet i 2003. Hunder fra oppdrettet har deltatt på utstillinger og working test.

Støtvigen

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Helene Foss

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Irlin Mai Von Munthe Morgenstierne driver oppdrett av rasen Pomeranian og holder til i Son i Norge.

Irlin Mai Von Munthe Morgenstierne

## Quick Facts

The Cocker Spaniel is a British flushing and retrieving gundog that also makes an active companion. The breed tends to be cheerful, sociable and cooperative, but hunting drive, activity level and ability to settle vary between individuals and breeding lines. The most important choice is therefore not only the breed, but also the breeder and line that suit your daily life.

- **Size:** males are usually about 39–41 cm at the withers and females 38–39 cm. Weight is often around 13–15 kg.
- **Activity level:** high. The breed needs physical activity, scent work, training and time to wind down every day.
- **Coat care:** the coat needs to be combed and brushed through thoroughly every week. Trimming roughly every other month is a useful guide, but the need depends on the coat, lifestyle and how the coat is kept.
- **Life expectancy:** about 11–15 years is a broad guide, not a guarantee for an individual dog.
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to do things with their dog and has time for both training and regular coat care.

Some dogs are bred primarily for work in the field, while others are bred mainly with the breed standard and other traits in mind. The difference may be visible in working style, build and coat, but type alone does not determine what a dog will be like. Tell the breeder how you live, ask what the parents are used for and, if possible, meet adult relatives before choosing a puppy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Cocker Spaniel is a compact, robust and well-balanced dog with long, low-set ears and an alert expression. The coat should be flat and silky, with longer feathering on areas including the ears, chest, abdomen and legs. The breed comes in many recognised colours, both solid and in various particolour or roan combinations.

Height at the withers is about 39–41 cm for males and 38–39 cm for females. An adult dog often weighs around 13–15 kg. These measurements describe the breed’s typical build, but do not predict a puppy’s future activity level or whether a particular dog will suit your home.

Coat care is a real part of everyday life. Comb down to the skin at least once a week and pay particular attention to areas where tangles form easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and feet. Regular baths followed by thorough drying can make the coat easier to manage. Many dogs need help from a skilled groomer roughly every other month; a dog with a profuse show coat may require more work, while a shorter or more practical trim can be managed differently.

Check the ears, skin, nails and feet at the same time. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge, itching or repeated head shaking are signs that need attention, not something to mask with a fixed cleaning routine. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to show you how to keep the hair around the feet and ears tidy without irritating the skin or ear canal.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cocker Spaniel should be friendly, affectionate, lively and inquisitive, and many enjoy working closely with their person. This makes the breed rewarding to train and easy to engage in shared activities. At the same time, a dog may act independently when a scent or movement becomes more interesting than its handler. Friendliness in the breed description is therefore a desired trait, not a promise that every dog will automatically cope with every setting.

The distinction between working-bred and more show-oriented Cockers matters, but should not be exaggerated. Working-bred dogs are bred with a clear focus on performance in the field. Dogs bred mainly towards the breed standard may still have clear hunting traits and substantial activity needs. If you intend to hunt with your dog, choose documented working lines. If you mainly want a companion, you should still expect an active dog and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life.

BPH results can provide more information about dogs’ responses to people, play, surprises and different surfaces, for example. BPH is a Swedish behavioural description carried out in a set situation, not a test that a dog passes or fails, and it does not capture every trait needed for field work. Treat the result as one part of the picture alongside the breeder’s aims, the parents’ everyday behaviour and any hunting or working records.

## Training & Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel needs physical activity and mental work every day, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, breeding line, intensity and opportunities to recover all affect the need. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, scent and search games, retrieving or another cooperative exercise, as well as learning to rest when nothing is happening.

The breed’s background makes activities that involve searching, finding and cooperating particularly natural. Tracking, spaniel work, retrieving, nosework, obedience and agility are examples, but simple everyday exercises work too: finding an object, following a short trail or bringing in a toy on cue. A working-bred Cocker may need more purposeful work than an ordinary walk provides. A great deal of fast activity without planned recovery does not automatically produce a calm dog.

Start recall, handler focus and impulse control early. Begin where distractions are limited and increase the difficulty gradually; use a long line where hunting interest may take over. Reward-based, clear and brief training usually suits a quick, engaged Cocker better than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Also spend time teaching calm handling of ears, feet and coat so that recurring care is safe and comfortable for both dog and owner.

## Health

A Cocker Spaniel can live a long and active life, but health should be assessed through verifiable results, not simply through a breeder saying that the line is healthy. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have a recorded hip dysplasia (HD) status. Ask for the parents’ registered names or registration numbers and check their results in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata databases.

The Cocker Spaniel Club of Sweden’s current puppy referral rules give buyers a practical Swedish checklist, but following the rules is voluntary. Results must be known before mating. Both parents must have a hip result of A, B or C; if one dog has a C result, the recommendation is for the parents’ average hip index at mating to be above 100. The eye examination certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear of familial nephropathy, FN. These are the breed club’s referral conditions, not a guarantee that a puppy will never become ill.

Do not ask only whether “all the tests have been done”. Ask to see the exact result, date and identity for both parents. FN and renal dysplasia, RD, are different kidney diseases, so an FN DNA result does not rule out every kidney problem. A prcd-PRA DNA test reports status for one particular inherited variant, while an eye examination can detect clinical changes and other eye diagnoses. The tests complement one another but do not answer the same question.

Long ears and profuse feathering make ear checks a practical routine. Keep the ears dry after bathing and swimming, and consult a vet if there is pain, smell, redness, discharge or recurring itching. Do not treat a dog yourself simply because the breed is often associated with ear problems.

## History & Origins

The Cocker Spaniel comes from Great Britain and was developed to flush and retrieve birds in close cooperation with the hunter. It was recognised as separate from the Field Spaniel and Springer Spaniel shortly after the Kennel Club was founded in 1873. The older name “cocking spaniel” is linked to its work with the woodcock.

Different breeding directions have become more distinct over time. Working-bred dogs have been selected for traits such as search pattern, speed, desire to work and responsiveness in the field, while other breeding places greater emphasis on the breed standard. Both belong to the same breed, but the distinction helps explain why two Cocker Spaniels may require quite different daily lives. The English Cocker Spaniel should not be confused with the American Cocker Spaniel, which is a separate breed.

## Living with the Breed

A Cocker Spaniel can live successfully in a family with children, a flat or a home with other animals, but none of these outcomes follows automatically from the breed name. The individual dog’s traits, early training and daily routines matter, as does the responsibility taken by the adults.

An adult must always supervise interactions with young children. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog when it is eating or resting, when it withdraws or when it shows that it wants to be left alone. The dog needs a safe resting place that the children respect. Meet the parents if possible and ask the breeder how they respond to handling, noises, visitors and children instead of accepting the label “family dog” as sufficient.

The breed can often live with other dogs, but a cat or smaller animal may trigger hunting interest. During introductions, allow the animals to become familiar with each other’s scent first and then meet under control, using distance, a barrier or a lead. The cat must always have a safe escape route, and the dog must not be allowed to practise chasing. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are stable.

A flat is not a problem in itself if the dog receives enough outdoor activity and can settle indoors. In a building where sound carries, you will also need to prevent barking at noises or in anticipation of activity through calm routines and training around sounds in communal areas. A garden does not replace walks, scent work or shared training.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone at first; begin with very short periods once the puppy feels secure and increase them only while it remains calm. There is no single duration that every Cocker Spaniel can manage. Arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life regularly requires more time alone than your particular dog handles well.

Before buying, check three things: which traits the breeder actually prioritises, how the parents and adult relatives behave, and which registered health results are available. When the line, activity needs and coat care suit the household, you have the best foundation for what the breed was developed to be — a cheerful dog that wants to work closely with its person.

Cocker Spaniel

Svenska Spaniel och Retrieverklubben - SSRK (Sweden)

Dansk Spaniel Klub (Denmark)

American Kennel Club (Provides UK information)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), Belgium

Cheerful, medium‑sized gundog with a sturdy build, soft expression, and long silky ears. Bred to hunt woodcock, it loves sniffing, searching, and joining family activities. Sensitive and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, and regular grooming to stay healthy and content.

Julie Kristin Brække driver oppdrett av rasen Cocker spaniel og holder til i Halden i Norge.

Julie Kristin Brække

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen driver oppdrett av rasen Labrador retriever og holder til i Hobøl i Norge.

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen

Madam Gautier driver oppdrett av rasen Mellompuddel og holder til i Hærland i Norge. Flere mellompudler fra oppdrettet har gjennomført mentalbeskrivelse (MH). Tidligere avlstisper har hatt titler i agility og fra internasjonale utstillinger.

Madam Gautier

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small but powerful herding and cattle dog that is now kept mainly as an active companion. It is best suited to someone who wants to combine walks with everyday training, scent work or other forms of mental activity.

- Height at the withers: approximately 25–30 centimetres
- Breed-standard weight: 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females
- Country of origin: Great Britain, with the breed’s working history rooted in Wales
- Coat: a medium-length double coat that sheds, particularly during heavier seasonal moults
- Temperament: the ideal is a bold, alert and friendly dog, but individuals vary considerably
- Lifespan: the Swedish breed club describes many dogs as reaching 12–14 years, although health and longevity vary

The Pembroke and the Welsh Corgi Cardigan are two separate breeds, not varieties of the same breed. They differ in features such as size, colour and tail. Do not choose between them on the strength of simplistic claims that one is always calmer or more sociable.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke should be low-set, strong and sturdily built without appearing heavy or restricted. The body is medium in length, the chest is broad and deep, and the ears are upright. Despite its short legs, a healthy Pembroke should move freely and actively.

The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25–30 centimetres, a weight of 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females. These figures are guidelines, not the correct target weight for every dog. Body condition and muscle mass must also be considered.

The coat has straight, medium-length outer hair and a dense undercoat. Permitted colours are red, sable, fawn, and black and tan. They may appear with or without white on the legs, chest and neck; a small amount of white on the head and muzzle is also allowed.

Older descriptions can give the impression that every Pembroke has a short tail. In fact, puppies may be born with a full tail or a natural bobtail of varying length. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden unless it is medically necessary. A docked dog is therefore not Swedish-bred, so its origin and import documents should be checked carefully.

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is generally a little taller, has a long, fox-like tail and comes in a wider range of permitted colours. Colour or personality cannot identify the breed reliably; the pedigree establishes which breed the dog belongs to.

The coat does not require trimming. Brush it regularly and brush through the undercoat when shedding increases. This removes loose hair and makes changes in the skin easier to spot. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than to a fixed timetable. Calmly accustom the puppy to brushing, nail care and tooth brushing.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a bold, workmanlike, outgoing and friendly dog. However, the Swedish Kennel Club’s current BPH behaviour analysis shows considerable variation among the dogs assessed. Some greet strangers enthusiastically, while others show much less interest. A breed description therefore cannot predict exactly how any particular puppy will develop.

The Pembroke’s background as a farm and cattle dog is often reflected in watchfulness, quick reactions and an ability to make its own decisions. Many enjoy working with their owner, but some need more practice to choose the handler over events in their surroundings. This can make the breed rewarding to train, although everyday cooperation should not be taken for granted.

The Swedish Kennel Club highlights possible tendencies to guard, bark and nip at heels. The last of these is linked to the breed’s historical work close to the hind legs of cattle, but herding behaviour is not identical in every dog. Nipping at running children, feet or trouser legs should still be stopped early. Reward calm contact, attentiveness and choosing an appropriate task instead.

Vocal behaviour also varies. A Pembroke may react to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or anticipation, but the breed name alone does not determine whether barking will become a problem. Ask how the puppy’s parents and close relatives behave at home. Establish calm routines around the door, visitors and rest from the outset.

For a family with children, the right individual and a well-managed routine matter more than the label “family dog”. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes or miles will not suit every dog. Age, health, fitness and what the walk involves all matter more than a standard timetable.

A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that requires concentration, such as searching for food, tracking or learning practical skills. Balance calm activities with movement and planned rest. A dog that runs a great deal but never learns to settle may still find it difficult to relax.

Start early with recall, loose-lead walking, impulse control and a calm cue that interrupts barking or nipping. Reward-based training makes the desired choice clear to the dog. Keep sessions focused and finish while the dog is still engaged rather than repeating the same exercise until interest fades.

The breed may enjoy obedience, rally, tracking, scent work and agility. Choose an activity to suit the individual dog’s body and motivation. Not every Pembroke has herding ability simply because the breed historically worked cattle; these qualities must be assessed in the individual.

Short legs are not a reason to treat a healthy adult dog as fragile. Build fitness and muscle gradually and provide good grip on slippery floors. Adjust exercise for puppies, older dogs and dogs recovering from injury. Sudden pain, reluctance to move, lameness or weakness calls for veterinary assessment, not blanket advice about stairs or ramps.

## Health

The Swedish breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as a generally healthy breed, but buyers should still check hips, eyes and documented health in the family. It is important to distinguish between registration requirements, breed-club advice and DNA tests that happen to be available.

Since January 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club has required both parents to have an official hip status before mating if their puppies are to be registered. Ask to see the results and how the breeder evaluated the proposed pairing; “X-rayed” does not mean that the result was clear.

Svenska Welsh Corgi Klubben, the Swedish breed club, also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination before mating. Ask for current results for both parents and about eye findings in close relatives. The club also monitors lameness and premature closure of the ulna, known as short ulna, which can cause the front leg to develop abnormally. A young dog with an increasingly turned-out foot, a curved foreleg or lameness should be examined promptly by a vet.

DNA tests for degenerative myelopathy, or DM, and von Willebrand disease type 1 are available for the breed, but their results must be interpreted correctly. The current Swedish breeding strategy describes the DM test as a risk test and does not recommend routine testing, because it does not give the complete clinical picture and the disease has not been documented as a major problem among Swedish dogs. For vWD type 1, the breed club withdrew its previous routine-testing advice after a review with the Swedish Kennel Club’s DNA group. A laboratory result does not in itself prove that a dog is ill or will become ill. Ask the breeder why a test was performed and how its result was balanced against other aspects of health and genetic diversity.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition throughout life. A clear waist should be visible from above, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Weigh the dog regularly, but do not let the figures in the breed standard replace a proper body-condition assessment. Consult a vet if weight changes without a clear reason or the dog needs a structured weight-loss programme.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke developed in Wales as a farm and herding dog, but its earliest origins have not been conclusively established. Theories involving Flemish weavers, Nordic spitz-type dogs and a relationship with the Swedish Vallhund should be treated as theories rather than settled history.

Its documented work on Welsh farms explains the breed more clearly. Pembrokes helped move cattle to and from barns, guarded farms and performed several other duties. As heelers, they drove cattle while working close to the animals’ hind legs. The task demanded alertness, mobility and determination, as well as both independence and cooperation.

Pembrokes and Cardigans developed their own distinctive features in Wales but were long treated collectively as Welsh Corgis. They were separated into two breeds in 1934. The FCI lists the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as breed number 39 in Group 1 for sheepdogs and cattle dogs.

In Sweden, Pembrokes live almost entirely as companion dogs, although some still herd. Their working heritage is more often expressed through dog sports, scent work and an everyday life in which they solve tasks with their owner.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Pembroke can live in a flat, terraced house or detached home if its routine provides enough activity, rest and companionship. Its low height does not make it inactive, and a garden cannot replace walks or training. In a flat, it is particularly important to work early on calm responses to sounds in shared areas, movement outside windows and activity at the door.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief periods and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed. Puppies and anxious dogs need particular care. Dogs also need to be taken out regularly during the day, so anyone working long hours must plan for company and daytime walks.

The breed can live with other dogs or cats, but compatibility depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give a cat dog-free places and a clear escape route, keep early meetings controlled and prevent chasing. Small pets should be protected from stress and physical contact. Previous experience with another species is useful information, but it cannot guarantee the next relationship.

The Pembroke can suit a first-time owner who enjoys training and can be consistent without using harsh methods. It is less suitable for someone who wants a dog content with very short walks, that sheds little, or that will automatically be quiet and compliant.

The breed has grown markedly in Sweden. Careful checks become even more important as a breed gains popularity. Meet the breeder and the puppy’s mother, and verify registration, microchip details, the veterinary examination certificate and official health results. If the dog is imported or has a docked tail, its origin and import documents should be clear. A sound decision rests on records, open answers and how the dogs actually behave, not photographs or promises of a particular temperament.

Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Association Française du Corgi

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small, sturdy herding dog with short legs, a fox-like face, and a weather-resistant double coat that sheds year-round. Intelligent, active, and people-oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, kind training, and careful weight and back management.

Milkcreek driver oppdrett av welsh corgi pembroke i Ramnes. Oppdrettsvirksomheten startet i 1989, og kennelens historie omfatter også 25 år med berner sennenhund og rundt ti år med spansk vannhund. Oppdrettet av welsh corgi pembroke ble tatt opp igjen etter en pause på omtrent ti år. Milkcreek har oppdrettet hunder med internasjonale championtitler innen rasene berner sennenhund, welsh corgi pembroke, shetland sheepdog og spansk vannhund. Blant berner sennenhundene har det vært både amerikanske og britiske championer. I 2008 fikk en hund fra oppdrettet Norsk Welsh Corgi Klubbs vandrepremie for beste unge welsh corgi pembroke. Milkcreek mottok NKKs Oppdretterpris i 2011.

Milkcreek

## Quick Facts

The Dobermann is a German working breed for someone who wants to train, cooperate and keep their dog close in everyday life. The breed learns quickly, is physically strong and often forms a very close bond with its family. It needs an owner who can provide both purposeful activity and clear periods of rest — not just long walks.

- **A good fit if:** you want to work actively on everyday obedience, scent work or dog sport and have time for daily companionship.
- **A poorer fit if:** the dog will regularly be left alone for whole working days or is largely expected to exercise itself.
- **The key question when buying a puppy:** what is known about the heart health and temperament of the parents and close relatives, and can the breeder show dated results?
- **Size:** males 68–72 cm and about 40–45 kg; females 63–68 cm and about 32–35 kg, according to the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and without an undercoat; easy to care for but with limited protection from cold and wet weather.
- **Main health challenge:** dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, which can develop without visible signs.

A Dobermann can suit a committed first-time owner, but training and safe handling need to begin immediately. Access to a good puppy class, continuing support from an instructor and a realistic daily plan matter more than the label ‘experienced dog owner’.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dobermann is a medium-sized, powerful and almost squarely built dog that should combine muscle with elegance. The FCI standard recognises two colours: black or brown, both with clearly defined rust-red markings.

The ears are left natural and should ideally lie close to the cheeks. The tail is also natural and is ideally carried high in a slight curve. In Sweden, cropping the ears or docking the tail is prohibited unless the procedure is necessary for veterinary reasons.

The short, smooth coat normally needs only occasional brushing and a bath when the dog is dirty. Check the nails, ears, skin and paws at the same time. The coat has no undercoat, and short-haired dogs can become cold more quickly than well-coated breeds. Adapt to the individual dog, the weather and the activity: a well-fitting coat can be sensible in cold or wet conditions or during periods of inactivity. Dry the dog after wet walks and keep it moving when outside in cold weather.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, calm, self-confident and willing worker with a good connection to its handler. Many Dobermanns are playful, attentive and closely attached to their family. They notice changes around them quickly and usually want to be involved, which can create a very close working relationship.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every dog. Information from the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club shows that sociability and fears still need to be taken seriously. Look at the complete MH profiles of both parents rather than merely checking that they ‘have done MH’. MH records the dog’s reactions; it does not award a pass or fail. Pay particular attention to contact with people, fears, recovery and response to gunshot, and ask how siblings and older relatives behave in everyday life.

Dobermanns often have an interest in chasing and may react quickly to movement. Whether a dog can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and training. A breed name can never promise trouble-free relationships. Ask the breeder to describe the parents’ social behaviour in concrete terms and plan new introductions calmly and under control.

## Training & Exercise

A Dobermann needs physical activity and purposeful mental work every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, temperament and fitness determine the appropriate load. For an adult dog, the best routine combines walks and time to move freely with short training sessions, scent work and recovery.

Prioritise skills that make a strong, watchful dog safe to live with:

- walking on a loose lead and keeping in touch despite distractions
- recall and the ability to break focus on wildlife or other movement
- calm behaviour at the door, with visitors, around other dogs and during handling
- waiting, settling and giving up items on cue
- scent work, tracking or searching in which the dog has a clear task to solve

Train with rewards, clarity and consistency. High expectations without understandable guidance do not create stability. Vary the tasks and finish while the dog is still succeeding. A Dobermann also needs to learn how to switch off; more speed is not always the answer to stress or restlessness.

Puppies and adolescents should not follow an adult dog’s exercise programme. Focus on play, gradual exposure to the environment, body awareness and short skills sessions, then increase the load as the dog matures. Anyone planning to cycle, run long distances or take part in demanding dog sport should time the start according to the individual dog’s development and veterinary advice.

## Health

DCM is the most important health risk to understand before buying a Dobermann. The disease weakens the heart muscle and can cause abnormal rhythms. It can be present at a preclinical stage, when the dog appears healthy, and a normal result on one occasion does not rule out disease developing later.

A full DCM screen includes both echocardiography and a 24-hour Holter ECG. The ultrasound assesses the dimensions and pumping function of the heart, among other things, while the Holter records its rhythm over a full day. Results are recorded centrally under the Swedish Kennel Club’s level 1 programme, but level 1 does not make the examination a registration requirement. A dog must be at least three years old to receive an official normal status, and the result is valid for 12 months. The Swedish Dobermann Club recommends that breeding dogs aged three or over have a full screen within a year before mating.

Ask to see the date and both parts of each parent’s screen. Also ask about heart health, lifespan and causes of death among older close relatives. A DNA test cannot replace echocardiography and Holter monitoring, and the phrase ‘heart tested’ is insufficient without the method, date and result.

Other documented problems in the breed include hip dysplasia, the eye condition PHTVL/PHPV, von Willebrand disease, which affects blood clotting, and Wobbler syndrome, which affects the cervical spine and nervous system. Wobbler syndrome can, among other signs, cause neck pain or difficulty coordinating movement. Such changes, as well as fainting or a marked loss of stamina, require veterinary assessment.

For Swedish litter registration, the parents must have official hip dysplasia status. Parents resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have ‘known mental status’. For dogs born in 2016 or later, this means a complete MH with all 33 entries completed; the handler may decline the gunshot component. The breed has an HD index, the parents’ average index at mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded D or E must not be used for breeding.

The published breed-specific breeding strategy recommends a vWD test unless the dog’s clear status is established by parentage, with at least one genetically clear parent, and also covers PHTVL/PHPV. Distinguish such breed-club guidance from the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules and ask for current eye examination results. Check the information yourself in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata services. Healthy, tested parents reduce risk but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The Dobermann was developed in Apolda, Germany, during the 1870s and is named after Friedrich Louis Dobermann. He worked as a tax collector and dog catcher, among other roles, and selected dogs with clear guarding and working qualities. The FCI history particularly identifies the ‘butcher’s dogs’ of the period, a forerunner of the Rottweiler, and a black, rust-marked shepherd type from Thuringia as important foundations.

The dogs were used early on as farm, guard and police dogs. This helps explain the breed’s combination of attentiveness, courage, connection with its handler and desire to work. Today, the Dobermann remains a working and sporting dog, but can also be a companion and family dog in a home able to meet the same need for cooperation and purposeful tasks.

## Living with the Breed

A Dobermann does not require one particular type of home, but it does require a workable daily routine. Flat living can work if the dog is active outdoors, can settle indoors and does not become watchful at every sound. Think practically about noise carrying between homes, access to outdoor space and an undisturbed resting place.

The breed often wants to stay close and is not suited to being left alone for whole days on a regular basis. A young puppy cannot be left alone. An adult trained to cope alone can generally manage a few hours, but individual differences are considerable. Increase the time in small steps and arrange help if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress.

With children, a stable and well-trained Dobermann can be a close member of the family, but its size and speed require adult supervision. A dog and a small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically control.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can I give the dog work and recovery every day? Can I handle a strong dog safely when something unexpected happens? Can the breeder show clear, dated records for hearts, hips, temperament and close relatives? If any answer is no, it is wiser to wait or choose a less demanding breed.

Dobermann

Verein für Deutsche Hunde (VDH)

Dobermann Club of the United Kingdom

The Dobermann is a medium‑large, athletic German working dog with a short, sleek coat and rust markings. Highly intelligent, loyal and people‑oriented, it needs extensive daily exercise, training and close companionship. Naturally alert, its temperament depends heavily on breeding and socialisation.

Beyond Fame er et dobermannoppdrett i Drøbak som har hatt planlagte kull siden 2020. Flere hunder fra oppdrettet har oppnådd juniorchampionater og vinnertitler i Norge, Norden og andre europeiske land. Ved utgangen av 2025 var to av hundene internasjonale juniorchampioner. De hadde også nasjonale og nordiske juniorchampionater, i tillegg til juniorvinnertitler fra 2024. Én av dem hadde dessuten titlene Norsk Vinner og Nordisk Vinner fra 2025.

Beyond Fame

## Quick Facts

- Despite its name, the Tibetan Terrier is not a terrier by function. The FCI places it among companion dogs, but its background includes both herding and alerting guard work in Tibet.
- Males should stand 36–41 cm at the withers, with females slightly smaller. The FCI standard gives no official weight, so the actual size of the parents and other adult relatives is more useful than a promise of a particular number of kilograms.
- The breed should be sturdy, medium-sized, long-haired and generally square. Its large feet are round and flat, and movement should be smooth, with good reach and drive.
- The coat is double and may come in many colours. Chocolate, liver and merle are not permitted by the standard.
- The breed ideal is lively, good-natured, alert and intelligent. The dog may not readily show affection to strangers, but excessive shyness is not a desirable breed trait.
- The Tibetan Terrier best suits someone who wants a close companion, can devote time to coat care and training, and is prepared to inspect health documents rather than simply accept that the parents have been “tested”.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Terrier should be strong and compact without appearing heavy. The distance from the point of the shoulder to the root of the tail should equal the height at the withers. The head is well furnished, and the eyes are large, dark brown and set fairly wide apart. The heavily feathered tail is set fairly high and carried in a curl over the back; a kink near the tip is permitted.

The long facial hair may fall forwards, but it must not cover the eyes or interfere with the dog's sight. This is an important everyday check. If the dog bumps into objects, hesitates at stairs or struggles to read other dogs' signals, do not dismiss it as the breed's typical fringe. Part or tie up the hair so that the dog can see, and ask a vet to assess any new change in vision.

The undercoat is fine and woolly. The topcoat should be profuse, fine and long, but neither silky nor woolly. It may be straight or waved, but not curled. Permitted colours include white, gold, cream, grey, smoke, black, parti-colour and tricolour. It is therefore incorrect to say that every colour is accepted: chocolate, liver and merle are excluded.

Coat care needs to be thorough, but the same timetable will not suit every dog. The adolescent coat change, full coat length, dampness, dirt and activity all affect how quickly tangles form. Work through the coat from the skin with your fingers and a comb, especially behind the ears, in the armpits and groin, through the beard and feet, and wherever a harness or collar lies. The comb should pass through without pulling the skin. Bathe the dog when the coat is dirty or difficult to untangle, and dry it right down to the skin. Introduce the puppy gradually to brushing, drying, paw handling and standing or lying still.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Terrier should be lively, good-natured, outgoing, alert, intelligent and game, without being fierce or pugnacious. The standard also says that the breed may not readily show affection to strangers. That does not mean fear, threatening behaviour or a failure to recover after a surprise should be excused as “typical reserve”.

There can be substantial variation between individuals. Older Swedish MH behavioural-assessment data provided a useful historical breed average, and a survey behind the 2018 Swedish breeding strategy reported both excessive reserve and difficulty being left alone in some dogs. The material concerns older generations and cannot predict a puppy today.

Meet the dam and preferably several adult relatives. Observe how they respond when an unfamiliar person enters, when someone handles their paws and coat, and when something unexpected happens. A suitable adult need not seek contact with everyone, but should be able to cope without remaining stuck in fear, barking or defensive behaviour. Ask how full siblings and previous offspring behave at home, while travelling and during veterinary visits.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Terrier needs movement, scent work, learning and recovery every day, but no fixed number of hours is right for every dog. An adult may enjoy walks over varied ground, searching, tracking, rally obedience, agility at an appropriate level, or other training that involves thinking and cooperation. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, health, fitness and ability to settle afterwards.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life straightforward:

- loose-lead walking and a reliable recall, initially in controlled environments
- passing people and dogs without every encounter becoming a greeting or an alarm
- a clear resting place and the ability to relax after activity
- voluntary handling of the coat, paws, mouth, eyes and ears
- waiting at doors, by the car and before greeting
- very short periods alone that are increased without distress

Reward-based training gives clear information without needless conflict. The breed may learn quickly without enjoying long, repetitive sessions. Vary rewards between food, play, sniffing, greater distance and access to an activity. If the dog becomes increasingly vocal or restless, or struggles to sleep after training, simpler tasks, fewer stimuli and longer breaks may help more than another session.

Puppies and adolescents should have varied, self-paced movement on safe surfaces, but should not be subjected to long runs or repeated jumping. Lameness, stiffness or reluctance to move should be assessed by a vet.

## Health

Binding Swedish registration rules and breed-club recommendations are not the same thing. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 rules, offspring cannot be registered if a parent has PRA or lens luxation. The breed-specific section does not, however, require a particular DNA panel or a specified hip result. A puppy buyer should therefore check both the minimum rules and the voluntary health work.

The Swedish breed club, Tibetanska Terriersällskapet, says that both parents should be hip-scored and preferably have HD grades A or B. If a dog graded C is used, the predicted HD index for the litter should be at least 100. The breed has a Swedish HD index, so ask to see each parent's result and the predicted litter index rather than merely being told that the hips were X-rayed.

The club also advises that both parents should have an eye examination no more than one year before mating, with no evidence of PRA or lens luxation, subject to a specific exception for some older dogs with repeated eye examinations and DNA results. Ask for the date, complete report and previous results. PRA is an umbrella term, and according to the club, the PRA3 and rcd4 tests explain only some of the PRA cases in the breed. A clear result for one variant therefore does not exclude every form of PRA or other eye disease.

DNA tests are available for primary lens luxation, PLL, and the late-onset neurological disease NCL, among other conditions. For these recessive variants, a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated because puppies could inherit two copies of the disease variant. Check the exact condition, variant, laboratory and result for both parents. The phrase “DNA tested” says too little without the documents.

Renal dysplasia, formerly called PNP, also forms part of the breed's health history. The Swedish breeding strategy states explicitly that the former RD DNA test is unreliable and should not be used. Such a result must not be presented as health clearance. Instead, ask about diagnosed kidney disease in the parents, siblings, previous offspring and older relatives.

A large UK study published in 2024 estimated a median lifespan of 13.8 years for Tibetan Terriers in the group studied. The result describes UK dogs and is neither a prediction for a Swedish puppy nor a guarantee for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Terrier originated in Tibet, while Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard. Despite its name, it is not a terrier. The FCI describes a background as a herding dog and an alerting guard for traders, but classifies today's breed as a companion dog in Group 9.

The modern European history is better documented than many tales about sacred bringers of good fortune. The British doctor Agnes Greig encountered the breed in India in 1922 and brought dogs to England during the 1920s. Tibetan Terriers and Lhasa Apsos were registered together as Lhasa Terriers until the British kennel club separated them in 1934.

In 1958, Carin Slättne imported two dogs from England to Sweden. Tibetanska Terriersällskapet was founded in 1972. That part of the history is clear. Stories that the dogs were never sold, were always given as gifts of good fortune, or performed particular rescue work belong more to tradition and are not equally well documented.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Terrier can live in a flat or a house if it receives activity, calm and regular coat care. The size of the home matters less than the ability to manage close encounters, noises in communal areas, a wet coat and a dog that readily notices change. Teach a resting place and reward the dog for hearing outside noises without continuing to bark.

Active adult supervision is essential around children. Children must not disturb the dog while it is eating, sleeping or moving away, and the coat or tail must never become a handle during play. A dog that wants to leave should have a protected space behind a gate or in another room.

Living with other dogs, cats or smaller animals must be assessed individually. Introduce dogs calmly, ideally on neutral ground. Give a cat high resting places and dog-free areas, and prevent chasing from the outset. Early familiarity may help, but it does not replace supervision or an assessment of the individual dog's behaviour.

Introduce time alone gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase it only when the dog can eat, rest and return to a calm state. Persistent barking, pacing, destruction or refusing food shows that the step is too difficult; it is not evidence of defiance.

A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed if the coat work, everyday training and checking of health documents feel manageable. Meet adult relatives, verify hip results and the litter index, read the eye reports and ask for the DNA result for each named variant. Choose a breeder for openness about the whole family, not for colour, hairstyle or a general assurance that the line is healthy.

Tibetan Terrier

Verein für Deutsche Spitze (Germany)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norway)

Medium, sturdy Tibetan breed with a long protective coat and snowshoe feet, once companion to monks. Calm and gentle indoors, lively and athletic outside. Bright, independent problem‑solver needing kind, consistent training, regular grooming, and close family companionship.

Lena Mari Fjeld er oppdretter av tibetansk terrier i Halden. Hun har også vært aktiv innen travsport. I 2013 var hun trener for vinneren av et løp på Klosterskogen, og i 2012 var hun blant mottakerne av SpareBank 1 Haldens æresteppe fra Halden og Omegn Travselskap.

Lena Mari Fjeld

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

Katharina Ludvigsen er oppdretter av dvergpuddel i Råde og står bak kennelnavnet Utiles. Oppdrettet av dvergpuddel under dette navnet går tilbake til minst 2010. Hun har også oppdrettet toypuddel og storpuddel under samme kennelnavn. Blant hundene som er oppdrettet under kennelnavnet, finnes både dvergpuddel og toypuddel med norsk championtittel. Ludvigsen var dessuten medforfatter av en rasepresentasjon om puddelen i Hundesport i 2006.

Katharina Ludvigsen

Hege Merethe Bendiksen driver oppdrett av cocker spaniel i Ramnes under oppdretternavnet Pawlite's. I både 2015 og 2023 hadde Bendiksen egenoppdrettede cocker spaniels oppført ved NKK-utstillinger. En cocker spaniel med Bendiksen som eier toppet Norsk Spaniel Klubs årsoversikt for rasen i 2011. Ved NKKs Oslo Vinner-utstilling i 2024 var Bendiksen oppført både som eier og oppdretter av en cocker spaniel fra Pawlite's. Samme år var en cocker spaniel fra oppdrettet, med en annen eier, oppført ved NKKs utstilling i Trondheim.

Hege Merethe Bendiksen

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Dompel Dimpel driver oppdrett av finsk lapphund i Skiptvet i Østfold. Oppdrettet er blant Norsk Lapphundklubbs oppdrettere av rasen i fylket. I 2018 fikk hunder fra oppdrettet blant annet Excellent-bedømmelser og hederspremie på utstillinger i Sverige og Nederland. Samme år ble en norskfødt finsk lapphund fra Dompel Dimpel rasevinner på Pinkstershow i Nederland.

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