## Quick Facts

The Maltipoo is a cross between a Maltese and a Poodle, not a recognised dog breed with a shared breed standard. This means that names such as Maltipoo, F1 and F1b describe ancestry but do not guarantee a particular size, coat, personality or allergy risk.

- **Background:** the Maltese and Poodle are both companion dogs in FCI Group 9, but the Maltipoo is not registered as a separate breed by the Swedish Kennel Club.
- **Size:** there is no official Maltipoo size range. The Maltese standard specifies 20–25 cm, depending on sex, and 3–4 kg. Poodles come in four sizes: Toy Poodles are over 24 cm and up to 28 cm; Miniature Poodles are over 28 cm and up to 35 cm; Medium and Standard Poodles are larger. The Poodle standard does not specify a weight for the varieties.
- **Coat:** the coat may be straighter, wavy or curlier and often needs considerable care. Assess the dog’s actual coat rather than relying on the name of the cross.
- **Activity:** a small body does not mean that the dog only needs to sit on a lap. Daily movement, scent work, play and learning should be tailored to the individual.
- **Essential check before buying:** ask for both parents’ full names and registration numbers where available, the exact Poodle variety and verifiable health results relevant to each parent breed.

Breeders use F1 and F1b to describe how a cross has been produced. As these labels are not part of an official Maltipoo standard, the seller should always state which breeds and individual dogs are the actual parents. The label may describe the litter’s ancestry, but it cannot predict how each puppy will develop.

## Appearance & Coat

A Maltipoo has no standardised appearance; the parents’ size, coats and genes matter more than the name of the cross. Ask which Poodle variety was actually used and request the parents’ recorded heights at the withers. Claims that every dog sold as a Maltipoo will, for example, be 20–35 cm tall or fall within a particular weight range are estimates, not a breed standard.

Under its breed standard, the Maltese has a long, straight, silky white coat without an undercoat. The Poodle has a dense, curly wool coat or a corded coat and comes in several colours. A cross can fall at different points between these traits. The coat can therefore feel and behave differently even when two dogs are marketed under the same generation label.

Expect coat care to be a recurring job. How often it is needed depends on the coat’s length, density and texture, the dog’s activity and how readily the coat mats. A useful routine is to part the coat and check it with a comb all the way down to the skin. Work over the whole dog and pay particular attention where the coat becomes damp or sits beneath a harness or collar. If the comb catches, the brushing has not reached through the full depth of the coat.

Many individuals need clipping, but one fixed interval will not suit them all. A shorter trim does not remove the need for checks, and a professional groomer can help you choose tools and care for that particular coat. Calmly introduce the puppy, using rewards, to combing, bathing, drying, nail trimming and having its paws, mouth and ears handled before grooming becomes difficult.

The Maltipoo is not an allergy-free or allergy-safe dog. Dog allergens come from sources including saliva, skin cells, sebaceous glands and urine, not only from shed hair. Low shedding or a more Poodle-like coat, even in an F1b, can therefore never guarantee that a person with allergies will tolerate the dog.

## Temperament & Personality

A Maltipoo’s temperament cannot be reduced to a fixed blend of the parent breeds’ best qualities. The Maltese is described as affectionate, lively, playful and easy to teach, while the Poodle is described as friendly, sociable, active, responsive and quick-witted. A Maltipoo may be influenced by both, but also by the parents’ actual temperaments, early environment, experiences and training.

It is therefore better to assess individuals than to rely on words such as “family-friendly”, “calm” or “a perfect first dog”. Meet the mother and, if possible, the father, and observe how they respond to people and everyday handling. Ask how the puppies have been introduced to different people, sounds and surfaces, as well as short periods of settling on their own.

Some individuals are highly people-oriented and playful; others are more reserved or quick to react. Barking, responsiveness and the ability to settle are not determined by the name of the cross alone. Calm early routines and clear opportunities for undisturbed rest are more useful than assuming that the dog will automatically become a “little shadow” or develop separation problems.

## Training & Exercise

A Maltipoo needs daily physical activity and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Take account of age, size, health, fitness and how the dog recovers. Walks in varied environments can be combined with scent work, problem-solving, play and short training sessions.

The Poodle is described as active, and both parent breeds are described as easy to teach, so training can become an important part of daily life. Use positive, reward-based methods and progress in small steps. Practise recall, lead walking, settling in one place, engagement and cooperative handling, increasing the difficulty only when the dog is comfortable with the previous step.

Environmental training does not need to be intense. Let the puppy encounter new people, dogs, sounds and places at a distance where it can still take food, play or seek support. The aim is not to greet everything, but to cope calmly with everyday life. Tailor activity and play to the individual dog’s body, maturity and recovery.

A Maltipoo can suit a first-time owner who is willing to learn about dog training and accept the considerable grooming commitment. A small dog still requires planning: time alone, handling, tooth brushing and the ability to relax all need to be taught, just as they do with other dogs.

## Health

A Maltipoo’s health should be assessed by examining each parent, because the cross has no health programme of its own and no comprehensive, reliable body of health statistics. A long list of supposedly “common Maltipoo conditions” is less informative than parents whose identities can be verified and who underwent the appropriate examinations before mating.

Ask the breeder to show verifiable results and, where possible, check registered parents in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. A practical check includes:

- **Knees:** patellar luxation can occur in Maltese dogs, and the Swedish Poodle Club’s breeding strategy describes patellar examination as desirable for the smaller Poodle varieties. Ask for the official patella status of both parents. For a result to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, the dog must be at least 12 months old and the examination must be performed by a veterinary surgeon with the required specialist qualification.
- **The Poodle parent’s eyes:** for Swedish Kennel Club-registered breeding from Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, an official prcd-PRA result or hereditarily clear status is required before mating. Ask for the exact result, not merely the statement “DNA tested”. If a parent is a carrier, the status of both parents for that particular variant must be known before the risk to the offspring can be assessed.
- **Limits of the test:** a prcd-PRA test covers the specific mutation that causes the prcd form. It does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. A clinical eye examination is therefore a separate and relevant result to ask for, not the same check under a different name.
- **Mouth and teeth:** introduce tooth brushing from puppyhood. Daily mechanical cleaning with a dog toothbrush is the best way to remove plaque before it becomes tartar; never use human toothpaste.

No health test is a certificate of freedom from every condition, and the name of the cross does not remove the parent breeds’ inherited traits. Ask about illnesses, operations and longevity among close relatives on both sides. Claims about an exact Maltipoo lifespan should be treated as estimates because there is no uniform Maltipoo population covered by official health monitoring.

## History & Origins

The Maltipoo has no official breed standard, and there is not enough strong evidence to state who first used the cross or precisely when. The name simply describes the combination of Maltese and Poodle. Claims that the cross was created in the United States during a particular decade to produce an allergy-friendly dog are often repeated, but they are not well enough documented to be treated as established fact.

The parent breeds’ backgrounds are better documented. The Maltese has ancient roots around the central Mediterranean, while Italy is its official country of patronage; exactly where the breed first arose is uncertain. The Poodle’s country of patronage is France, and it developed from water dogs before becoming the versatile companion and activity dog described by its standard today.

What can be said with confidence is that Maltipoo is a name for a cross between two older, established companion breeds. The cross’s popularity does not create a uniform type: without a shared standard, breeding aims, selection and documentation can differ between breeders.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltipoo can live successfully in many homes, but suitability depends on the individual and the household routine rather than the type of property or claims that the cross suits every family. Flat living can work if the dog receives adequate toileting opportunities, activity, rest and training and if barking does not disturb neighbours.

An adult must always be present with young children. The child needs to learn not to lift, chase or disturb the dog, and the dog should have its own resting place where it is left alone. A small dog can be injured by a fall or rough play even if it seeks contact itself.

Living with a cat or other dogs depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give a cat high or separate escape areas and initially use a barrier and lead so that meetings can remain calm. Two dogs should preferably meet on neutral ground. Be particularly watchful when there is a large size difference, and stop over-exuberant play before either animal is cornered or injured.

Being left alone is a learned skill, not an inborn Maltipoo trait. Start when the puppy feels secure at home, leave it for a very short period while it is calm, and increase the time only when the previous level works without distress. Dogs vary greatly in how easily they learn this. Plan daily life around the individual dog and seek help early if it cannot settle.

The best-prepared Maltipoo owner accepts uncertainty around size and coat, regular grooming, daily activity and careful checks of the parents. That is a more reliable foundation for a good life with a dog than promises that the cross will always be low-maintenance, allergy-friendly or identical to another Maltipoo.

Maltipoo

The Kennel Club (UK)

Swedish Kennel Club

Norwegian Kennel Club

British Veterinary Association

Maltipoo: small, people‑oriented companion (3–8 kg, 24–35 cm) with a soft, low‑shedding, high‑maintenance coat. Typically affectionate, trainable, and suited to flats or houses with daily walks. Needs gentle training, regular grooming, company, and routine to avoid anxiety and barking.

## Quick Facts

The Toy Poodle is the smallest of the four recognised Poodle sizes. Under the breed standard, its height at the withers should be over 24 cm and no more than 28 cm. The ideal is 25 cm, with a tolerance of 1 cm below the range. Terms such as ‘teacup’, ‘tiny toy’ and ‘micro’ do not describe a fifth official size. Ask how tall the parents and other close adult relatives actually are rather than relying on a sales label.

The Toy Poodle is a small companion dog, but it should have the same normal proportions and clear Poodle type as the larger varieties. The standard describes an attentive, active and highly trainable dog, not a frail miniature with dwarf-like features. Its size does not reduce its need for training, time outdoors, enrichment or coat care.

Important points to consider before buying include:

- The coat grows continuously and must be clipped. Even a short trim requires brushing and bathing.
- The Toy Poodle is not allergen-free. Someone with a pet allergy may react even to a dog that sheds little visible hair.
- The parents of Swedish litters must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. Kneecap and eye checks are also important, but they are governed partly by different rules and recommendations.
- A sound Toy Poodle should be active and mobile. The home should nevertheless be arranged to prevent falls from height and overly rough play with much larger dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

The Toy Poodle should look like a well-proportioned Poodle in a small package. Its movement should be light and springy and its expression alert. The size boundary is based on height at the withers, not a guaranteed adult weight.

Poodles can have a curly wool coat or a corded coat. The wool coat should be dense, fine, elastic and evenly curled. It grows continuously and does not shed in the same way as the coats of many other dogs. That generally means less loose hair around the home, but not less work: loose hairs can remain in the coat and contribute to matting.

A sensible grooming routine should follow the chosen trim and the condition of the coat, not a fixed weekly timetable. Work through the coat down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. Bathe the dog when the coat needs cleaning, ease out tangles gently and clip it before the length becomes unmanageable. Owners who do not clip at home will need regular help. Gradually teach the puppy to accept a brush, comb, paw handling, clippers and short periods of standing still.

Since August 2024, the Swedish breed standard has included both solid and multicoloured Poodles. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey and apricot-red. Other recognised options include two-colour dogs, tan-pointed dogs, tricolours and brindle. There are 16 registered colour variants in total. Colour does not alter the dog's needs for care and training.

## Temperament & Personality

The Toy Poodle should be friendly, cheerful, loyal and willing to cooperate. Many individuals notice changes quickly, enjoy shared activities and pick up household routines readily. This makes the breed rewarding for someone who wants a close companion and also enjoys training.

A breed description is a guide, not a promise about every puppy. In Swedish behaviour assessments, Poodles as a group have generally appeared positive and attentive, with few unexpectedly threatening responses. However, the data for the smaller sizes are limited and include more Medium Poodles than Miniature or Toy Poodles. They therefore cannot predict the behaviour of an individual dog.

Watch how the puppy's mother and other adult relatives settle after something unexpected, approach people and cope with ordinary handling. Ask the breeder about strengths as well as anything that has required extra training. A dog that barks, holds back or becomes overexcited is not automatically ‘typical of a Toy’. Behaviour is shaped by the individual, experience, environment and what the people around the dog reward.

A confident, sociable Toy Poodle can be a lovely family dog, but its small body calls for adult supervision around children. Children need to let the dog rest, sit down before lifting it, and never chase, corner or carry it like a toy. The dog must always be able to move away. The same principle applies to other dogs: choose calm playmates and stop play when the size difference or intensity makes it unsafe.

## Training & Exercise

The Toy Poodle needs to move and use its mind every day. Its shorter stride affects the distance it covers, but a walk, a scent game and a training session serve different purposes and do not fully replace one another. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, terrain and weather, and how well it recovers afterwards.

Useful everyday activities include searching for food or a toy, following a scent trail, practising attention and calm waiting, or learning a new task. Agility, rally obedience, obedience and nose work may suit a healthy dog when jumps, obstacles and difficulty are adjusted appropriately. Puppies should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without repetitive, heavy impact.

Being highly trainable does not mean the dog will train itself. A Toy Poodle will also quickly learn things that you did not mean to teach. Keep sessions clear, reward the behaviour you want and pause before the dog loses focus. If the dog is restless or frustrated, review the balance of activity, sleep and demands rather than simply adding more exercise.

House training follows the same principles as it does for other puppies: go outside after sleep, food and play, give the puppy frequent opportunities to succeed and reward calmly outdoors. An accident indoors shows that timing or supervision needs to change; it is not defiance or low intelligence. A small puppy may need more frequent toilet breaks, but no single age or timetable applies to every Toy Poodle.

## Health

Prospective owners need to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's registration requirements from breed-club recommendations. For Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, both parents must have an official prcd-PRA result before mating. This may come from an approved DNA test or show that the dog is hereditarily clear through its parents. A carrier may be mated to a clear dog. Two carriers must not be combined, and a dog tested as affected must not be used for breeding.

prcd-PRA is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A clear DNA result shows that the dog does not have the tested mutation, but it does not rule out other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore recommends an eye examination after 18 months of age and another after five years. Ask to see both parents' results and their ages at examination.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The official result is graded from 0 to 3: 0 means a stable kneecap, while grades 1–3 indicate increasing degrees of luxation. An official certificate can be issued from 12 months of age. For Toy and Miniature Poodles, the Swedish Poodle Club recommends using a grade 1 dog sparingly and only with a dog graded 0/0. This is a breeding recommendation, not the same type of registration requirement as prcd-PRA. Between 2016 and 2021, 90–95 per cent of officially examined smaller Poodles were graded 0/0, but only part of each year's population was examined. The figure therefore describes the tested dogs, not every Toy Poodle.

Small dogs also have a higher risk of periodontal disease. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled and build up to daily tooth brushing. Ask the vet to check the bite, gums and dental deposits during routine visits. Bad breath, bleeding gums, loose teeth or a sudden change in chewing should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European breed, with France listed as its country of origin in the current standard. It was originally used to hunt waterfowl and retrieve from water. This work was performed mainly by the larger Poodle type, so the present-day Toy Poodle did not have the same historical working role.

The smaller Poodles were developed chiefly as companion dogs. During the nineteenth century, a dwarf variety began to be bred from small examples of the larger Poodles, and the size divisions subsequently changed over time. The Toy Poodle was fully recognised as a separate size in Sweden in 1990. It shares the breed's older origins, but the Swedish history of the Toy variety is much younger than the Poodle's history as a water dog.

All four sizes follow the same breed standard, but health advice and registration rules still need to be checked specifically for the Toy variety.

## Living with the Breed

A Toy Poodle can thrive in a flat or a house if it gets daily outdoor time, mental activity and rest. The amount of floor space matters less than whether daily life includes walks, grooming, training and company. A non-slip play area, a quiet bed and a way to prevent high jumps can reduce risk without limiting normal movement.

Time alone should be introduced gradually after the puppy has settled into its new home. Start with very short periods and increase them only while the dog remains comfortable. How long an adult dog can cope alone varies widely. Step back in the training if the dog begins to pace, pant, bark persistently, damage the area by the door or no longer takes a treat.

With a cat or another dog, calm introductions and the ability to move away matter more than a general breed label. Protect a small puppy from rough play, separate the animals around food and chews, and do not allow a new dog to chase cats or small pets. Some become close friends; others are happiest with clearly managed space.

Poodles are often marketed as allergy-friendly because they shed little visible hair. Allergens also come from saliva, skin cells, urine and sebaceous glands, however, and no dog is allergen-free. Anyone with an allergy should seek medical advice and find out how they react to dogs before buying. A Poodle coat is not a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy:

- meet the puppy's mother and see how the dogs live and behave in everyday situations;
- check both parents in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata database, particularly their prcd-PRA, patella and eye results, and ask about the health and temperament of close relatives;
- ask about the adult height of the parents and dogs from earlier litters rather than relying on terms such as ‘micro’ or a promised weight;
- ask the breeder to demonstrate the grooming routine and explain what handling the puppy already accepts;
- read the veterinary inspection certificate and personally look at the puppy's movement, eyes, ears, mouth, skin and general condition;
- make sure you receive proof of registration, a written contract and a veterinary inspection certificate that is no more than seven days old at handover.

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy. Choose a breeder who shows official results, speaks openly about variation and helps you find a Toy Poodle that suits your home.

Toy Poodle

The Swedish Kennel Club

The Norwegian Kennel Club

The Danish Kennel Club

The French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Toy Poodles are the smallest Poodles, square and elegant with dense, curly, low‑shedding coats needing regular grooming. Lively, sensitive and highly trainable, they form close bonds, suit active indoor lifestyles, and, with good care, often live 14–16 years or more.

Dream Puppy

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Société Centrale Canine (France)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

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Serine BlueCats

## Quick Facts

The Lhasa Apso is a small, long-coated companion dog with great self-confidence and a strong sense of independence. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an observant dog and is prepared to devote time to coat care, handling and everyday training.

- **Origin:** Tibet; Great Britain is also listed as a country of patronage in the modern breed standard
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** the ideal height at the withers is 25 cm for a male; females should be slightly shorter
- **Body shape:** compact and slightly longer than tall
- **Temperament:** cheerful, assertive, alert and steady, sometimes reserved with strangers
- **Coat:** long, heavy and straight topcoat with a moderate undercoat
- **Grooming:** demanding when kept in full coat; a shorter trim reduces the work but does not make the coat maintenance-free
- **Lifespan:** a large British study estimated a median lifespan of 14 years, although an individual dog may have a shorter or longer life

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Rather than judging an adult Lhasa Apso against a supposedly ‘correct’ figure, monitor its body condition, muscle tone and development with the breeder and your vet.

## Appearance & Coat

A Lhasa Apso should be a sturdily built small dog without exaggeration. The body is slightly rectangular, movement should be free and the coat must never prevent the dog from seeing or moving. The ideal height for a male is 25 cm and a female should be slightly shorter; this is an ideal in the breed standard, not a range into which every dog must fit precisely.

The head has a moderately defined stop and a straight muzzle measuring about one third of the head’s total length. The eyes should be dark, oval and medium-sized, neither large and prominent nor small and sunken. The tail is set high, well feathered and carried over the back.

The topcoat should be long, heavy, straight and fairly hard, rather than woolly or silky. The undercoat should be moderate. Golden, sandy, honey, dark grizzle, slate grey, smoke, black, white, brownish and parti-colour are among the colours listed in the standard, and all are considered equal.

A full coat involves a great deal of work, including bathing, drying, brushing and combing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how to part the coat and comb right down to the skin, especially in areas where mats can remain hidden. The frequency depends on coat texture, length, life stage and the dog’s daily routine; one fixed timetable will not suit every dog. A shorter trim makes grooming easier, but the coat must still be kept clean and free of mats, and the ears, eyes, paws and nails still need checking.

Gently teach the puppy to stand still, have its paws examined and accept a comb for short periods. This matters more than owning an elaborate collection of grooming tools. The Lhasa Apso should not be described as allergy-free or guaranteed to be suitable for people with allergies. The amount of dog allergen varies considerably even among individuals of the same breed, so anyone with an allergy should take medical advice seriously before buying a dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The Lhasa Apso should be cheerful, assertive, alert and steady. A degree of reserve with new people is typical of the breed, but should not be confused with fear or aggression. Some dogs approach readily, while others prefer to watch a visitor for a while before coming closer.

The breed has historically been valued for its watchfulness, and many individuals bark at unfamiliar sounds. This matters in a flat with poor sound insulation, but how readily a dog becomes excited depends on the individual, its surroundings and what it has learnt. Start early with training around the doorbell, sounds in communal areas and settling again afterwards. A prospective owner should meet the puppy’s mother and, if possible, other adult relatives to see how they cope with people, noise and unfamiliar settings.

No one can promise that a Lhasa Apso will automatically get on with children, cats or other dogs. Previous experience, introductions and the individual dog’s behaviour matter more than its breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a safe resting place where it will be left alone. Teach children not to pick up the dog, pull its coat or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping.

## Training & Exercise

The Lhasa Apso needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. Adjust walks, pace and terrain to the dog’s age, health, fitness and the weather. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, play, short training sessions and the opportunity to rest undisturbed.

The breed is small but can be active and capable of learning a great deal. Some Lhasa Apsos take part successfully in activities such as rally obedience and agility. That does not mean every dog should be trained in the same way. For a young dog, calm exposure to different environments, lead skills, recall and relaxed handling matter more than increasing physical strain too quickly.

Use reward-based, progressive training with clear criteria. Short sessions make it easier to finish while the dog is still engaged. Reward voluntary attention, calm behaviour at the door and cooperation during grooming. If the dog loses focus, make the task easier or change the reward instead of turning training into a battle of wills. Independence does not make the breed impossible to train.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Lhasa Apso as generally healthy and long-lived, but a responsible purchase still requires specific health questions. In a large British registry study published in 2024, the estimated median lifespan was 14.0 years among 7,216 dogs of the breed. This figure describes the dogs in that British study and is not a promise for an individual puppy.

The principal breed-specific health programme in Sweden concerns PRA4, a genetic form of progressive retinal atrophy that can cause deteriorating night vision and eventually blindness. The Swedish Kennel Club records the DNA results so that they can be checked. It is a level 1 programme and does not make DNA testing compulsory before breeding. A dog that has inherited the variant from both parents is classed as genetically affected and must not be bred from. Two carriers must not be mated to one another either. A carrier may, however, be mated to a genetically clear dog without producing puppies genetically affected by this particular PRA4 variant.

A PRA4 test is not a substitute for a clinical eye examination, because other eye changes and other forms of PRA can occur. The breed club recommends an eye examination before the first mating and, preferably, again at six and nine years of age, but eye testing is no longer a registration requirement. Ask the breeder to show you the parents’ recorded PRA4 results and current eye examination results, and to explain how the proposed pairing was assessed.

The breed’s breeding strategy also discusses historical cases of renal dysplasia. This is a developmental abnormality of the kidney tissue that arises in the foetus or newborn puppy and can cause serious kidney disease. There is no simple routine test that can declare a litter unaffected. Ask about confirmed cases in close relatives and how the breeder has taken the family history into account. The Swedish Kennel Club records cases in every breed when the diagnosis has been confirmed by examination of kidney tissue.

Look at function as well as awards and coat. A sound Lhasa Apso should be able to breathe freely, have clear eyes without irritation, see despite the hair on its head and move without restriction. Repeated eye irritation, laboured breathing or a coat that restricts movement should not be dismissed as normal for the breed.

## History & Origins

The breed standard lists Tibet as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country of patronage. The modern development and standardisation of the breed took place in Great Britain. The breed developed to withstand a harsh high-altitude climate, which is reflected in its substantial coat and sturdy construction.

The first dogs of the breed arrived in Great Britain in the early 1920s. They were initially confused with other long-coated Tibetan dogs under the name Lhasa Terrier, before the Lhasa Apso and Tibetan Terrier, among others, were separated. The English breed club was established in 1933, and the breed reached Sweden in 1965.

Stories about monasteries, sacred dogs and diplomatic gifts are often retold as one continuous, detailed history. Some elements belong to tradition rather than verifiable documentation. What is well established is the breed’s Tibetan origin and its British standardisation during the twentieth century.

## Living with the Breed

The Lhasa Apso can live successfully in either a flat or a house when its owner takes responsibility for training around everyday sounds, exercise, coat care and time alone. Its small size does not reduce its need for walks, training or a quiet place to rest.

Being left alone is a training issue, not an inborn breed advantage. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and training should begin with very short, secure periods. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can usually remain alone for a few hours, but reduce the duration if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress. Arrange help if your routine requires longer absences than the dog can manage.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following questions:

- What are the parents’ recorded PRA4 results, and why is the pairing safe?
- When were the parents last examined by an eye specialist, and were any findings recorded?
- Have there been confirmed cases of renal dysplasia or other serious disease in close relatives?
- How do the parent dogs respond to strangers, other dogs, noise and handling?
- How is the coat managed in practice, and how much work does a full coat require compared with a short trim?
- Can the dogs breathe, see and move freely without their coat or head shape restricting them?

The breed suits someone who wants to share life with a small but self-assured dog and considers grooming and everyday training part of dog ownership. It is less suitable for anyone seeking a maintenance-free coat, guaranteed silence or a dog expected to accept every person and animal without thoughtful introductions.

Lhasa Apso

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze (VDH - Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion once kept as an indoor watchdog. Rectangular body, dense floor‑length coat with many colors, low shedding but high grooming needs. Loyal and protective with family, reserved with strangers, alert and vocal. Suits apartments if well trained and exercised.

Natalie Zaedow Rything Larsen er opdrætter af racen Lhasa apso med base i Gedved i Danmark.

Natalie Zaedow Rything Larsen

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

## Quick Facts

The Drever is a low-set Swedish driving hound used mainly for hare, fox, roe deer and other deer. It combines a powerful hunting instinct and independent work in the forest with a calm basic temperament. The breed is best suited to a hunter, or to a home that can provide genuine scent work and manage its voice and interest in following tracks in everyday life.

- **Purpose:** an all-round driving hound that finds game, follows the track and gives tongue. Track accuracy, an appropriate pace and the ability to end a long chase are important working qualities.
- **Size:** males should stand 32–38 centimetres at the withers, with 35 centimetres ideal. Females should stand 30–36 centimetres, with 33 centimetres ideal.
- **Temperament:** the breed standard describes the Drever as attentive and calm. Aggression, nervousness and shyness are not part of the desired breed temperament.
- **Activity:** strong working drive and great stamina. Lead walks are rarely enough as the dog's only activity.
- **Coat:** a coarse, straight, close-lying coat that is relatively easy to care for.
- **Key health concern:** hunting-associated pulmonary oedema, sometimes called hunting oedema, is the breed's clearest documented specific health problem.

A Drever can be a lovely member of the family, but it is not an uncomplicated companion dog. Anyone wanting a dog that is often off lead, seldom works with its nose and remains quiet in a block of flats should consider another breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Drever should be long-bodied and low-set, yet strong, muscular and agile. It is built to work in rough country, not to look excessively long or heavy. Ground clearance should be about 40 per cent of height at the withers, and movement should be even, parallel and ground-covering.

The breed standard specifies height but no ideal weight. A number on the scales therefore matters less than the whole dog: the ribs should be easy to feel, a waist should be visible and the dog should carry enough muscle for its work. When choosing a puppy, free movement, well-constructed forelegs and adequate ground clearance are more useful than a promised adult weight.

The coat is coarse, straight and close-lying. It is shorter on the head, ears and lower legs, and slightly longer on the neck, back and rear of the thighs. The underside of the tail is bushy without feathering. All colours with white markings are permitted except predominantly white, merle and liver. The white markings should be visible from several angles.

Coat care is simple, but a working dog needs more than brushing. Remove loose hair as required and bathe the dog when it is dirty, rather than to a fixed timetable. After hunting or moving through dense cover, check the paws, nails, skin, eyes and ears for wounds, debris and ticks. Keep the nails short enough not to interfere with the way the paw meets the ground.

## Temperament & Personality

The Drever should be calm and attentive, but it has also been bred to make decisions at a distance from its handler. What looks like stubbornness at home is often the independence needed in the forest. Once the dog finds an interesting game scent, everything else can quickly become less important than the track.

With the right routine, a Drever can switch between intense outdoor work and settling at home. This does not guarantee that every individual will be quiet, easy to direct or sociable with everyone. Genetics, experience, training and the balance between activity and rest all matter.

The same basic rule applies around children as with any dog: an adult should be present and the dog must have a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. A calm breed temperament is no substitute for supervision, and children should not be responsible for a dog that may lunge after a scent on a walk.

Whether a Drever can live with other dogs, cats and small animals depends on the individual. It may learn to live with a cat, particularly after early, calm introductions, but its hunting instinct means that success should never be promised. Prevent the dog from chasing the cat from the first meeting, give the cat its own safe areas and do not leave them together unattended until you know how they behave with one another. Small pets need a secure space the dog cannot reach.

The voice is a working tool: a hunter follows the chase by listening to the dog. This does not mean that every Drever barks a great deal indoors, but noise must be considered before buying, especially in a flat. Repeated barking or howling when left alone should be treated as a sign that the arrangement needs to change, not as an unavoidable breed trait.

## Training & Exercise

Drevers respond best to clear routines, high-value rewards and difficulty that increases a little at a time. Harsh corrections do not create a safer hunting dog. Reward-based training that takes account of the breed's motivation provides a better foundation for trust and co-operation.

Start recall training in a place with no distractions. Reward promptly, often release the dog to sniff again, and move on to a long line before adding greater difficulty. Recall then does not always mean that the fun is over. A well-trained recall reduces risk, but it does not make hunting instinct harmless. In areas rich in game, a long line, secure enclosure or carefully planned hunting routine is often safer than testing whether obedience will hold.

No exact time rule suits every Drever. A sound daily routine includes physical activity, scent work, short training sessions and recovery. Adjust the amount to the dog's age, fitness, hunting season and individual needs. Build stamina gradually before the season instead of asking an unfit dog to go straight from quiet weeks to a long day in the field.

Activities that make good use of the breed's abilities include:

- game tracking or following a human-laid track with a clear start and finish;
- search exercises in which the dog works methodically with its nose;
- walks over varied ground with time to investigate scents;
- hunting trials and hunting training under knowledgeable guidance for a dog intended to work in the field.

Hunting is more than exercise. A Drever should search, put up and accurately drive hare, fox, roe deer or other deer, giving audible tongue and co-operating well enough for the hunt to remain manageable. For a non-hunting owner, the task is therefore greater than adding one extra-long walk: the dog needs regular, structured work that uses its nose, stamina and problem-solving ability.

## Health

The Drever is generally regarded as a healthy breed, but hunting-associated pulmonary oedema is a specific problem that every prospective and current owner should understand. It causes acute breathing difficulty during or after hunting. It is a form of non-cardiogenic pulmonary oedema, and the precise underlying mechanism remains unknown.

Warning signs include coughing, abnormally fast or laboured breathing and tiredness out of proportion to the work. An affected dog may struggle to lie down, sit with its head and neck extended or stop giving tongue during a chase. Stop the exertion and contact a vet if a dog develops these signs. Do not wait for another hunting day to see whether it happens again.

Heredity contributes to risk, and the Swedish Drever Club's breeding strategy contains specific guidance intended to reduce pulmonary oedema. Ask the breeder to show how cases on both the dam's and sire's sides have been assessed and how the planned mating appears in DreverData. Also ask how close relatives perform during hunting; normal breathing and recovery after work are important information.

Do not judge a Drever breeder by a generic list of hip, elbow and eye tests borrowed from other breeds. Use current advice for the Drever. Check the parents' identity, hunting and show results, temperament, health history and relatedness in the Swedish Kennel Club and breed-club records. Ask for frank answers about problems that do not have a simple test as well.

Good everyday care still matters. Keep the dog lean and well muscled, build fitness gradually and allow time to cool down after hard work. Check the dog after hunting and seek veterinary care for injury, pain, abnormal movement or altered breathing. A firm promise of a particular lifespan is less useful than documented health in the family and a breeder who is open about it.

## History & Origins

The Drever is Swedish as a recognised breed but has continental roots. Westphalian Dachsbracke dogs were imported into southern Sweden during the 1910s, and the first was registered by the Swedish Kennel Club in 1913. The underlying Dachsbracke type had been developed in areas including southern Germany, Tyrol and Switzerland during the nineteenth century.

In Sweden, hunters valued the low-set dog's way of driving roe deer and, later, hare, fox and other deer. The Swedish Dachsbracke Club was formed in 1944. In 1947, the Swedish variant was given the name Drever and the club became the Swedish Drever Club. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Drever as a Swedish breed in 1953.

The breed has continued to be selected as a working hunting dog. This explains both its robust construction and its strong hunting instinct today. The Drever's identity rests not only on appearance, but on its ability to follow a track accurately in Swedish country, give clear tongue and maintain a pace suited to driving game.

## Living with the Breed

The Drever is most at home when hunting or regular tracking work is a planned part of life, rather than something that may be tried later. It can live in a house or a flat, but the type of home does not meet the breed's needs by itself. A flat-dweller must arrange daily work outdoors and prevent nuisance noise; a householder still needs to train the dog and secure gates and boundaries.

Make this practical check before buying:

- **Work:** who will provide regular scent work and physical training outside the hunting season?
- **Safety:** can you use a long line, secure enclosures and reliable routines around doors, cars and hunting land?
- **Noise:** can your home cope with a powerful voice, and is there a plan if the dog starts barking through stress or lack of activity?
- **Time alone:** is there time to teach this gradually and arrange help if the dog cannot cope with the working-day routine? A Drever should not be expected to spend an entire working day alone.
- **Children and pets:** can children be supervised by an adult, and can cats or small pets have safe areas of their own?
- **Breeder:** can the breeder explain working ability, temperament, pulmonary oedema in the family and the reasoning behind the mating without making promises that nobody can keep?

A Drever can be a first dog, but only for someone willing to learn how a driving hound works and to seek support from the breeder, breed club or an experienced trainer. For a hunter who values an independent dog with a calm basic temperament, it can be both a skilled hunting partner and a close family member. For someone seeking an easily directed companion dog, the Drever is rarely the best match.

Drever

Svenska Dreverklubben

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Drever is a sturdy Swedish scent hound, low and long‑bodied yet strong and enduring. Bred to track and drive game at a steady pace, it has a clear voice, strong hunting instinct, and needs ample exercise. Friendly, affectionate, and easy‑care coated, it suits active, outdoorsy homes.

Strelluf er opdrætter af racerne Jack Russell terrier og Drever med base i Give i Danmark.

Strelluf

Else Jørgensen er opdrætter af racen Pudel, stor med base i Odder i Danmark.

Else Jørgensen

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Team Buddi er opdrætter af racen Schæferhund med base i Bjerringbro i Danmark. Hunde fra opdrættet har gennem årene deltaget i udstillinger, væsensbedømmelser og brugshundearbejde.

Team Buddi

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Grethe Willemoes Andersen er opdrætter af racen Labrador retriever med base i Skanderborg i Danmark.

Grethe Willemoes Andersen

Thomas Popperud er opdrætter af racen Labrador retriever med base i Flemming i Danmark.

Thomas Popperud

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Gaastedhøj er opdrætter af racen Bichon havanais med base i Tjele i Danmark. Der er opdrættet hunde i omkring 25 år.

Gaastedhøj

Heidi Boje Vitting er opdrætter af racen Labrador retriever med base i Ans By i Danmark.

Heidi Boje Vitting

Line Madum Hansen er opdrætter af racen Bichon havanais med base i Herning i Danmark.

Line Madum Hansen

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Lene Skov Jensen er opdrætter af racen Tysk Spids – Mittelspitz med base i Randers Nv i Danmark.

Lene Skov Jensen

## Quick Facts

- The Bichon Frise is a small Franco-Belgian companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- The breed standard gives a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to size. Males may be 1 centimetre taller and females 2 centimetres shorter if they remain well balanced.
- An adult should be white, with a profuse coat of loose spiral curls and a soft, dense undercoat.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful, sociable and adaptable dog that likes to stay close to its people. Temperament still varies between individuals.
- Coat care takes both time and skill. Anyone who does not want to manage bathing, blow-drying, combing and trimming at home will need to arrange regular grooming appointments.
- The Bichon Frise is not an allergy-free dog. The amount of allergen produced varies between individuals, even within the same litter.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bichon Frise is small but should not look delicate. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, while the white, curly coat creates the breed's rounded outline. The dark eyes and black nose form three distinct dark points in the face. The breed standard specifies a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to the dog's size. Males may be up to 30 centimetres and females as short as 23 centimetres, provided that their proportions remain balanced.

The coat has a curly outer layer and a soft, dense undercoat. An adult Bichon Frise should be pure white. Before twelve months of age, a puppy may have a slight beige or champagne tinge, but the standard says this must cover no more than one tenth of the dog. A pale tint on a young puppy is therefore not automatically an incorrect colour.

Coat care is one of the most important points to consider before choosing the breed. The curls need to be brushed and combed right down to the skin; if the comb catches, there is a tangle that needs to be eased out carefully. Brushing only the surface can leave a dense layer of matting close to the skin. During the puppy's coat change, often from about five to seven months but sometimes later, a thorough check may be needed every day.

The breed club uses bathing about every two weeks and trimming about every six weeks as practical guides. The interval depends on coat quality, length, weather and how thoroughly the coat is kept combed between sessions. Dry the coat completely after a bath without directing air that is too hot at the skin. Start early with short, positive sessions so the puppy becomes comfortable on a grooming table and with a brush, comb, paw handling and dryer. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to demonstrate the technique before tangles become a problem.

The breed is often suggested to people with allergies because it leaves relatively little visible hair around the home. That does not make the dog hypoallergenic. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and the amount differs from one dog to another. Anyone with an allergy should therefore assess their own circumstances and meet the particular dog several times; the breed name can never provide a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bichon Frise is first and foremost a companion dog: people-oriented, lively and often easy to include in everyday life. The breed standard describes an adaptable dog that is sociable with people and other dogs, forms a close bond with its owners and should be neither nervous nor prone to frequent barking. This is a breeding ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's health survey presents a more nuanced picture. Most owners described their dogs as secure, cheerful and positive, but some dogs were reserved with strangers or cautious when meeting other dogs. Calm, early exposure to different environments therefore matters even in a breed known for being sociable. Let the puppy discover new people, surfaces, sounds and dogs at a pace that allows it to remain curious and engage willingly.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and appreciates a close relationship with their dog. Its small size does not make ownership effortless. Coat care is substantial, a puppy needs frequent opportunities to toilet, and an adult needs daily activity, company and gradual training to spend time alone.

A Bichon Frise does not have to be noisy. An individual may nevertheless start reacting to sounds in a communal hallway, people passing a window or hectic situations. Reward calm behaviour, provide a place away from windows and the front door if necessary, and practise around everyday sounds before the response becomes a habit.

## Training & Exercise

The Bichon Frise needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day, but there is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the day's other activities all matter. For a healthy adult, walks that allow time for sniffing can be combined with play and short training sessions. Puppies need more frequent but shorter outings, while an older dog may need a gentler pace and more breaks.

Although bred for companionship, the Bichon Frise can do far more than sit on a lap. Swedish owners take part in activities including nosework, rally obedience, obedience and agility. Competition is not the point; the aim is to give the dog tasks it understands, such as finding a hidden toy, following a short scent trail, learning a trick or practising attention on a walk. A suitable daily routine helps the dog stay in good condition, remain curious outdoors and settle at home.

Training works best when it is reward-based, introduced step by step and adapted to the individual. Short sessions make concentration easier. Give particular attention to recall, walking on a lead, waiting calmly and standing still for coat care. Handling practice is an essential everyday skill for a Bichon Frise, not something to postpone until its first trim.

There is no good evidence that the Bichon Frise is unusually difficult to housetrain as a breed. Puppies learn at different rates. Take the puppy outside after sleep, meals and play, reward toileting outdoors and do not punish accidents. If a previously housetrained dog suddenly starts urinating indoors, investigate the cause rather than dismissing the behaviour as stubbornness.

## Health

The breed club's latest Swedish review describes the breed's general health as good to very good, but relatively few dogs were examined in some years and an owner survey cannot replace veterinary diagnoses. Check the parents' documented results rather than relying on a general assurance that the breed is usually healthy.

Patellar status, which records the position of the kneecap, is an important Swedish checkpoint. The Swedish Kennel Club will not register the litter if the parents lack an official patellar result. The examination must have been carried out when each parent was at least one year old, and the result must be available before mating. As its main recommendation, the breed club advises grade 0, with no abnormality, in both parents. Ask the breeder to show the results in the Swedish Kennel Club databases and ask about knee problems in close relatives.

Eye health also needs attention, but the rules are different. The Swedish Kennel Club's former eye examination requirement has been removed. The breed club still recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination certificate no more than twelve months old at the time of mating and advises how certain findings may be combined. Ask about both a current eye examination and eye diagnoses in the family without describing the examination as a current registration requirement.

Watery eyes were reported in the Swedish health survey, but it did not establish the causes. Tear staining shows quickly on a white coat, yet the condition of the eye matters more than the colour of the hair. New or increased tearing, squinting, pain, swelling or a change in vision should be examined by a vet. The breed's health strategy also notes recurrent itching and allergy problems, but the evidence is not strong enough to give reliable frequency figures.

Dental care is an important routine for every dog. Daily tooth brushing is the best preventive measure against periodontal disease and makes it easier to notice redness, bad breath or damaged teeth early. Introduce the puppy gradually to having its lips lifted and teeth touched, using the same calm approach as for coat care.

## History & Origins

The documented modern history of the Bichon Frise is Franco-Belgian. The FCI describes small dogs of this type being brought from Italy to France during the Renaissance. The name developed from barbichon to bichon, and paintings from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries show similar dogs with royalty and other prominent people.

The breed returned to fashion during the reign of Napoleon III, when it was known as the Ténériffe. The population came close to disappearing after the two world wars, but French and Belgian breeders rebuilt it. The current French name, bichon à poil frisé, was established in 1978 when the breed was recognised as Franco-Belgian. It arrived in Sweden in 1976, and the first Swedish litters were born the following year.

There are also colourful stories about sailors, rat-catching and travelling dogs, but these are less well documented. The best-supported account is primarily the history of a European companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

A Bichon Frise can live successfully in either a flat or a house because the size of the home matters less than the daily routine. The dog needs regular outings, activity every day and training to remain calm around sounds outside the front door. Swedish welfare guidance advises that adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent opportunities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Start once the dog feels secure at home, step away for a very short time and increase the duration only while the dog remains calm. One adult may manage a few hours, while another needs more company or a dog sitter. Howling, destructive behaviour, restlessness or refusing food means the training should be scaled back and may need to be discussed with a qualified trainer or vet.

The same safety rules that apply to other dogs are needed around children. Young children and dogs should have an adult present, and the dog needs its own resting place where it will be left alone. The Bichon's small body requires gentle handling; children should not carry the dog or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. If there is already a dog or cat in the home, introductions should be calm and allow plenty of distance. The breed's sociable ideal does not remove the need for a careful introduction.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants a close companion and accepts that coat care is a weekly commitment. Before buying a puppy, you should be able to see the parents' patellar and eye results, ask how they cope with time alone, sounds, people and dogs, and receive a practical coat-care demonstration. This bases the decision on the dog and the life you will actually share, rather than on promises of an undemanding small pet.

Bichon Frise

Deutscher Bichon Frisé Club e.V.

Small, sturdy companion dog (23–30 cm, 5–8 kg) with a cottony white, low‑shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, people‑oriented, and adaptable to city or house living, it enjoys play and cuddles, moderate daily exercise, and close inclusion in family life.

Whitestarsofthenorthernlights er opdrætter af racen Bichon frisé med base i Give i Danmark.

Whitestarsofthenorthernlights

## Quick Facts

- The Tibetan Spaniel is a small, recognised companion dog in FCI Group 9 — not a working gundog, despite its name.
- The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25 cm at the withers and an approximate weight of 4–7 kg. These are guidelines, not a guarantee for every adult dog.
- The breed is described as cheerful, alert, intelligent and loyal, as well as independent and sometimes aloof with strangers.
- Its medium-length double coat has a silky topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. All colours and combinations of colours are permitted.
- A Tibetan Spaniel needs daily exercise, mental activity and company, but the amount must be tailored to the individual.
- Eye health is the clearest breeding consideration in Sweden. An eye examination and PRA3 DNA status provide different information and should not be confused.

## Appearance & Coat

The Tibetan Spaniel is small but should look balanced and agile, without exaggeration. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the back is level and movement should be free, active and parallel. The breed standard's approximate 25 cm and 4–7 kg are useful guidelines. If adult size matters greatly to you, also look at both parents and closely related adult dogs.

The head is small in proportion to the body, and the muzzle should be medium in length, blunt and free from wrinkles. A slight undershot bite is typical of the breed, but neither teeth nor tongue should show when the mouth is closed. The eyes should be dark brown, oval, clear and forward-facing. Assess the whole dog — clear eyes, a closed mouth, unrestricted movement and a proportionate head — rather than choosing the one with the most extreme appearance.

The coat consists of a medium-length, fairly close-lying topcoat and a fine, dense undercoat. The ears, backs of the forelegs, tail and thighs carry longer feathering. Males tend to have a more pronounced mane than females, but the dog should not be over-coated. Every colour and mixture of colours is allowed; colour does not, however, predict temperament or health.

A thorough brush and comb once a week is a sensible starting point. Check the coat more frequently during moulting. Take the comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering, where friction can cause tangles. Wash the dog when it is genuinely dirty and let the condition of the coat, rather than a bathing calendar, decide. Calmly accustom a puppy to nail trimming, mouth care and other handling too; tooth brushing is an important lifelong routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Tibetan Spaniel suits someone who appreciates an attentive companion with a mind of its own. The breed ideal is cheerful, self-assured, intelligent, alert and loyal. Its independence can be charming, but also means the dog may not work simply because it is asked. The breed can suit a first-time owner, but is not automatically easy: patience, reward-based training and respect for the dog's signals matter more than having owned a dog before.

The fact that the breed may be aloof with strangers does not excuse fear or aggression. A stable dog should be able to watch from a distance and then settle without being forced to greet. When visiting a breeder, observe how the dam and other adult relatives react to a new person, touch, sounds and everyday excitement. They should be able to seek support and recover.

Alertness can mean barking when something changes outside a door or window. The amount an individual barks is also influenced by environment, experience and training. Rather than asking only whether the breed is “barky”, ask how the parents behave when visitors arrive and how quickly they settle again. In a home where sound travels easily, reward quiet watching from the outset, teach a clear cue to leave the trigger and settle, and restrict lookout points that keep the dog constantly on duty.

BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment for dogs, can provide useful information about an individual dog's reactions, but it is a description rather than a pass-or-fail test. If parents or adult relatives have completed a BPH, review the results with the breeder. Treat them as additional evidence alongside what you observe, not as a guarantee of the puppy's future personality.

## Training & Exercise

The Tibetan Spaniel needs to move and use its brain every day, but its needs cannot be reduced to a fixed number of minutes. The breed can accompany you on longer outings and still relax at home. A sound routine alternates walks, scent work, play and cooperative exercises with undisturbed rest. Adjust the load to age, health, ground conditions and weather, and to how quickly the dog returns to normal movement and energy afterwards.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's independent nature. Make the task clear and worthwhile instead of raising your voice or using physical corrections. Vary the setting and the reward, and finish while the dog is still engaged. Short sessions can be practical, but concentration and quality matter more than the clock.

Prioritise skills that make everyday life safe and calm:

- attention and walking with you near traffic and other distractions
- recall, initially practised on a long line or in an enclosed area
- a cue to move away from the door or window and settle
- willing participation in grooming and examination of the paws, mouth and eyes
- calm greetings and the ability to rest despite sounds in a stairwell or outside the home
- gradual training for time alone, without leaving the dog for longer than it can remain settled

Dog sports can be enjoyable if the individual likes them, but they are not essential and do not by themselves prove that the dog's everyday needs are being met. What matters is a dog that moves freely, remains curious during activity and can wind down afterwards.

## Health

Eye health is the most concrete documentation to check when buying a Swedish-bred Tibetan Spaniel. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official eye examination result that was no more than one year old at the time of mating. Ask to see the registration numbers, examination dates and actual results for both parents — not simply an assurance that they have been “tested”.

PRA is an umbrella term for inherited retinal diseases that can lead to blindness. PRA3 is one of the genetic variants found in the breed, but a PRA3 DNA test does not cover every cause of clinical PRA. An eye examination and a DNA test therefore answer different questions:

- an eye examination records the clinical condition of the eyes at the time and can detect PRA and other changes
- a PRA3 test shows whether the dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected by that particular PRA3 variant
- a carrier is not affected by PRA3 but can pass on the variant and should only be mated to a clear dog
- a clear PRA3 result does not certify that the dog is free from every eye disease

PRA3 results can be recorded centrally, but the DNA test is not the same formal requirement as the current eye examination. If a breeder says a dog is hereditarily clear, check that this is actually recorded. The Swedish Kennel Club records clear status by descent for no more than three generations.

The breed club also draws attention to renal dysplasia, abnormal eyelashes, inward-turning eyelids and patellar luxation in its breeding work. This does not mean every Tibetan Spaniel will be affected or that all these examinations are mandatory for registration. Ask instead about actual diagnoses and examination results in parents, siblings and older close relatives. When buying a puppy, a short, verifiable family history is more useful than a sweeping claim that a line is “completely healthy”.

## History & Origins

The Tibetan Spaniel has Asian origins, but its early history is not an unbroken, fully documented pedigree. Small dogs existed in Tibet and China for a long time, and breed tradition associates them with palaces and monasteries as companions and alert watchdogs. It is not possible to establish with certainty exactly where the type first developed or how it moved between regions.

The modern breed was developed in Britain, where it was documented in the late nineteenth century. In 1934, the Tibetan breeds received their own standards through the British Tibetan Breeds Association. After the Second World War, the British population was rebuilt from a small number of dogs. Britain therefore holds responsibility for the standard, even though Tibet is listed as the country of origin.

The first Tibetan Spaniel was imported into Sweden in 1955, with the first Swedish registration following the next year. Those dates are better documented than stories detailing how monastery dogs were given away or worked on walls. Such stories may help to explain the breed's reputation as an alert companion, but should be read as tradition rather than verified history.

## Living with the Breed

The Tibetan Spaniel can live successfully in a flat or a house when its routine provides exercise, mental activity, rest and social contact. The size of the home matters less than frequent opportunities to go outside and effective management of alert barking. In a flat, pay particular attention to the parents' barking, how easily sound travels in the building, and whether you can train calm behaviour at the door, window and in shared stairways.

The basic rules around children are the same as for other small dogs: an adult should be present, children should not lift or carry the dog, and the dog needs a protected resting place. A confident individual can become a lovely family dog, but a breed name never replaces supervision or respect for body language.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals and how they are introduced. Ask about the parents' and puppy's actual experience of other animals. For a cat introduction, begin with separate spaces and scent exchange, move on to a barrier and lead, and make sure the cat always has a clear escape route. Let both animals proceed at their own pace and do not leave them together unsupervised until their behaviour is predictable — and even then, each should have its own space.

Time alone is a trained skill, not a fixed breed trait. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog must be accustomed gradually, starting with very short, calm absences. Increase the duration only when the dog can rest without persistent barking, pacing or distress. If your routine requires the dog to spend full working days alone, this breed, like other companion dogs, is a poor choice unless suitable daytime care is arranged.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to the following:

- why this particular mating was chosen and how the parents behave in daily life
- the parents' registration numbers, and the dates and results of their eye examinations
- the PRA3 status of both parents and what the combination means for the puppies
- known cases of eye problems, renal dysplasia and patellar luxation among close relatives
- adult size, barking, responses to strangers and recovery after excitement in parents and older offspring

The breed is best suited to someone who wants to live with a small, active companion that likes to stay close but will not always obey on command. If you can offer kind training, clear everyday boundaries and room for an independent personality, the Tibetan Spaniel can enjoy outings, keep an alert eye on its surroundings and settle peacefully at home.

Tibetan Spaniel

The Tibetan Spaniel Association (UK)

The United Kingdom Kennel Club

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Small but sturdy Tibetan companion dog, about 9–15 lb, with a silky double coat, mane-like ruff, and plumed tail. Alert yet not yappy when trained, cat-like in independence, deeply attached to family, good with respectful children, adaptable to city or country with moderate exercise and grooming.

Cim-Cill er opdrætter af racen Tibetansk spaniel med base i Hammel i Danmark.

Cim-Cill

## Quick Facts

The English Springer Spaniel is an active British gundog bred to find game, flush it from cover and retrieve it. It is best suited to someone who wants to engage both the dog's body and mind every day, whether through shooting, dog sports or a varied outdoor life.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives a height of approximately 51 centimetres at the withers. It does not specify a weight, so a fixed weight range is not a useful benchmark for every dog.
- **Type:** The breed has long included distinct breeding lines, particularly working-bred and more show-oriented dogs. A breeder's aims and the parents' traits say more about what a puppy may inherit than the label alone.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog. Individual dogs still differ in areas such as activity level, sociability and sensitivity.
- **Activity:** The breed needs regular exercise and mental stimulation, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** Dense, straight and weather-resistant, with feathering that needs regular brushing and trimming.
- **The right home:** A good choice for someone who wants to train, work with their dog and spend plenty of time outdoors; a poorer fit if the dog is often expected to make do with brief toilet walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Springer Spaniel is a strong, compact dog with a balanced, elegant outline. The standard gives a height of about 51 centimetres at the withers but no official weight range. Do not judge a dog against an arbitrary figure on the scales. Assess body condition instead: there should be a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure.

The coat should be dense and straight, providing protection from the weather without being coarse. The longer hair on the ears, legs and body forms moderate feathering. Permitted colours are liver and white or black and white, with or without tan markings.

A thorough brush about once a week is a sensible starting point for many dogs, but the amount of coat, season and activity determine what is actually needed. Pay particular attention to the armpits, groin, ear feathering and feet after woodland walks, swimming or wet weather, as debris and tangles can collect there. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. Clipping and trimming are required regularly, but the interval should follow the length and quality of the coat rather than a rigid calendar.

The well-feathered drop ears need regular checks. Trim the longer hair on the inside when necessary, and inspect the ears after swimming. An unpleasant smell, redness, discharge or repeated scratching warrants veterinary advice rather than continued cleaning without knowing the cause.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, cheerful and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Marked shyness and aggression are not desired traits. This makes the English Springer Spaniel an appealing working companion, but it does not guarantee how every dog will behave with children, strangers or other animals.

Results from BPH behavioural assessments also show that a breed average does not tell the whole story. Dogs of the same breed can react differently in social situations, during play and when something unexpected happens. The breed also includes different breeding lines that have not always been assessed separately. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, which traits have been prioritised and whether BPH or other relevant test results are available.

The breed needs opportunities to use its curiosity and willingness to work. High activity should not, however, be confused with a need to remain constantly on the go. The ability to switch between work and rest should be taught from the start through clear routines, calm breaks and suitably challenging tasks.

## Training & Exercise

The breed's original working sequence – hunt, flush and retrieve – explains much of its training needs. Many individuals enjoy investigating ground and cover, carrying objects and working closely with their handler. Walks can therefore be more rewarding when they sometimes include scent work, retrieving, simple searches or another shared training task.

There is no single daily exercise duration that suits every dog. A fit, healthy adult can cope with far more than a puppy, an older dog or one returning to activity after a break. Base the workload on age, health, fitness and recovery. Combine unhurried walks, time moving through varied terrain, mental training and rest instead of trying to exhaust the dog with intense exercise every day.

Checking in with the handler, recall and the ability to remain in place despite scent or movement are especially useful skills. Begin in easy situations and increase distractions gradually. Positive, reward-based methods and short sessions help preserve confidence and willingness to cooperate. A long line can add safety during training, but it does not prove that the dog will later be reliable off lead everywhere.

In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wild animals unless taking part in hunting. Extra control is required in places where wildlife may be present between 1 March and 20 August. If a dog has a strong interest in game, its owner must be able to prevent it from setting off in pursuit.

## Health

The English Springer Spaniel is generally described as a healthy breed. When buying a puppy, it is nevertheless important to distinguish formal requirements from breed-club recommendations. A long list of every condition ever reported in the breed is less useful than current results for the specific parents and their families.

For litters registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. This means that they must have been assessed and a result must be available; it does not mean that every grade is automatically equally suitable for breeding. Springerklubben has more detailed breeding recommendations concerning hip results and combinations. Ask to see the parents' actual results and how the proposed mating follows the club's current guidance.

The breed club also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination no more than one year before mating. Gonioscopy before a dog's first mating forms part of the club's guidance for assessing the drainage angle of the eye. Check the date, diagnoses and any follow-up advice on the certificates; do not settle for being told that the dogs have simply been “tested”.

Fucosidosis is a recessively inherited enzyme deficiency that can affect the central nervous system. A carrier does not become ill from the variant but can pass it on. A DNA test is available, allowing the breeder to document the parents' status and avoid a mating that could produce affected puppies. Understanding the verified results matters more than demanding the same set of tests for every dog.

In everyday life, check the ears and monitor body condition regularly. Recurrent ear trouble, changes in the eyes, lameness or other symptoms should be assessed by a vet. Do not assume that a problem is harmless simply because someone calls it “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The English Springer Spaniel comes from Britain's old spaniel tradition. These dogs were used to find and flush game for hunting with nets, falcons or Greyhounds. As shooting developed, their work became searching ahead of the gun, flushing game and then retrieving it.

The word “springer” refers to making game leave its hiding place. The Kennel Club recognised the English Springer Spaniel as a distinct breed in 1902. Sweden's Springerklubben was founded in 1982.

Breeding has followed different directions for many years. Working populations have primarily been selected for performance, while others have been selected more for conformation and the show ring. This is an important historical and practical distinction, but it does not create two simple personality templates. There is variation within both directions, and modern dogs may take part in several activities. A buyer should therefore assess the particular breeder's aims, the parents and the wider family rather than relying on a label alone.

## Living with the Breed

An English Springer Spaniel can live in a flat if it receives sufficient activity, recovery time and access to countryside or other suitable training environments. A garden does not replace walks and activities with its owner. What matters is how the dog's day is spent, not whether the home is a house or a flat.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very short periods when the dog feels secure and settled, and increase the duration only when it can relax. Individuals vary, so do not organise daily life on the assumption that the breed name guarantees a certain number of hours alone.

An adult should always supervise time with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. The standard's description of a friendly dog never replaces supervision. Take the same care with other animals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings brief and controlled, and give the cat its own escape routes. Whether a particular dog lives well with cats or other dogs depends on the individual, its previous experience and the introduction.

When considering a puppy, it is particularly useful to check:

- the breeder's goals and whether the dogs' level of working drive suits your life
- both parents' official hip results, not merely that they have been X-rayed
- the date and full result of eye examinations, including any gonioscopy
- verified fucosidosis status where relevant to the mating
- how the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life, ideally supplemented by BPH or working results
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different environments and ordinary family life.

The best match is a dog whose likely activity level, willingness to work and sensitivity fit the owner's real routine. For an English Springer Spaniel, that assessment is more valuable than promises that the breed is always easy, good with children or the same regardless of breeding direction.

English Springer Spaniel

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The English Springer Spaniel is a medium, athletic gundog with a feathered, weather‑resistant coat needing regular grooming. Cheerful, affectionate and people‑oriented, it requires 1.5–2 hours of daily mental and physical exercise. Generally healthy, active, and suited to engaged, outdoorsy homes.

Sieger's er opdrætter af racen Engelsk springer spaniel med base i Viborg i Danmark.

Sieger's

Majken Eisner er opdrætter af racen Toypuddel med base i Fårvang i Danmark.

Majken Eisner

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Malinois is the short-coated variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. Under the FCI and the Swedish Kennel Club, the Malinois, Groenendael, Tervueren and Laekenois are four varieties of the same breed, distinguished chiefly by coat and colour.
- The Malinois is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog. The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females; the breed standard allows 2 cm below and 4 cm above the ideal.
- This is a watchful breed, quick in both thought and action, developed to work closely with people. Being quick to learn does not make a Malinois easy to live with: training also needs to develop calm behaviour, impulse control and recovery.
- A Malinois is best suited to someone who wants to train regularly and can provide both physical exercise and work for the nose and brain every day. Long walks alone rarely form a complete plan.
- Family dog, sport dog and service dog are not mutually exclusive roles, but the choice of breeder and litter matters greatly. Look at the parents’ everyday behaviour, temperament assessment, working achievements, health and previous offspring, not merely the breed name.

## Appearance & Coat

The Malinois should be medium-sized, square and powerful without looking heavy. Its body length should therefore be approximately equal to its height at the withers, rather than giving a distinctly long-bodied impression. The head is lean and well chiselled, the ears are small, triangular and erect, and movement should be light and lively.

The ideal height in the breed standard is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females, with a tolerance of 2 cm below and 4 cm above. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females. These figures describe an adult in normal condition; proportions, muscle and body condition are more informative than a single reading on the scales.

The Malinois is short-coated. The hair is very short on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs, slightly fuller around the neck, thighs and tail, with a dense undercoat. The coat should be fawn with black overlay and a pronounced black mask. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes, but large white markings are outside the standard.

The coat does not require elaborate professional grooming. Brush it when hair is coming loose and bathe the dog when it is genuinely dirty. More frequent brushing is useful during shedding. After work in woodland, long grass or water, take the opportunity to check the skin, paws, nails and ears. The short coat makes inspection easy, but does not replace a regular hands-on check of the dog’s body.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Malinois is alert, active and very ready to act. At the same time, the breed ideal calls for a confident dog without fear or aggression. High intensity is not the same as poor emotional control, and a dog that is constantly stressed is not more typical simply because it is fast.

There is considerable variation between individuals. The Swedish Kennel Club tells prospective owners to expect differences both between the varieties and between individual dogs. A label such as “working, service or show line” is therefore not enough on which to base a decision. Ask to see how the parents greet people, recover after a surprise, accept handling, pass other dogs and settle when nothing is happening. Read the full Mentalbeskrivning Hund (MH), the Swedish working-dog temperament description, and ask how siblings and previous offspring cope with ordinary life.

A well-matched and well-managed Malinois can live successfully with children, but its speed and rapid reactions call for adult supervision. Children and dog should each have an undisturbed resting place, and boisterous games should stop before the dog begins to chase movement or becomes too aroused. Young children should never be responsible for training or walks. The same caution applies around cats, small animals and unfamiliar dogs: whether it works depends on the individual, previous experience and training. Introduce the animals gradually and make sure they can be kept apart.

## Training & Exercise

The Malinois needs physical and mental activity every day, but no credible fixed number of hours suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, the type of work and the ability to recover should guide the plan. A balanced week might combine walks and conditioning with tracking, scent work, obedience, working trials or another purposeful activity. The aim is not to make the dog as tired as possible, but to develop useful skills and a sustainable routine.

Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead walking, handling, stop and release cues, and the ability to wait and rest from an early age. Training should be reward-based, tailored to the individual and made harder gradually as the dog develops. Short, clear sessions with breaks often produce better work than repeating an exercise until the dog loses accuracy or becomes over-aroused.

Puppies and adolescents should not be exercised like fully grown service dogs. Develop strength, confidence in different environments and body awareness gradually, and do not let repetitive ball chasing, jumping or long runs become the entire activity plan. Watch movement and recovery. Stiffness, lameness, poorer concentration or an inability to settle after activity are reasons to reduce the load and, where necessary, consult a vet or an experienced instructor.

A first-time owner can succeed, but the learning curve is steep. A realistic plan includes access to a working-dog club or experienced trainer, support from the breeder and a clear idea of what the dog will do on dark weekday evenings and during periods when competition or service work is not taking place.

## Health

The Belgian Shepherd Dog is described as generally healthy and sound, but hips, elbows, epileptic-type seizures and back problems deserve particular attention. Before buying a puppy, it is important to distinguish binding registration rules from the breed club’s stricter breeding advice and to examine the wider family, not just each parent’s individual result.

For Swedish-registered breeding, the current Swedish Kennel Club rules require official hip and elbow status and known mental status for the parents covered by those provisions. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, known mental status means a complete MH with all 33 positions recorded; a Beteende- och personlighetsbeskrivning hund (BPH), the more general Swedish behaviour and personality assessment, does not replace this requirement for the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The breed-specific breeding strategy (RAS) additionally recommends A or B hips, clear elbows and a score of 1 or 2 in the MH gunshot item. Ask to see the original results and check siblings and previous offspring too.

Information about epilepsy needs careful interpretation. An older RAS survey captured reports of seizures or epileptic-type episodes in a small proportion of Malinois, but owners’ reports are not the same as veterinary diagnoses and the figures do not show how common the problem is in the breed today. Research demonstrates a hereditary component to epilepsy in Belgian Shepherd Dogs, with the strongest published evidence concerning the Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. Ask specifically about seizures in parents, siblings, half-siblings and previous offspring rather than relying on a broad commercial DNA panel.

The RAS survey also flagged back problems in Malinois, but these were again reports from owners in an older sample and should not be read as current prevalence. Ask about spondylosis, lumbosacral problems, recurring lameness and work-related injuries in the family. For an active dog, an honest family history, official joint results and a plan for progressive conditioning are more useful than a long list of possible diagnoses.

## History & Origins

The Malinois originated in Belgium and developed from the local sheepdogs used in the late 1800s. The Belgian Shepherd Dog Club was founded in Brussels in 1891. In the same year, veterinary professor Adolphe Reul brought together 117 dogs to describe and select a more consistent type, and a first detailed breed standard was in place by 1892.

The first Belgian Shepherd Dogs entered the Belgian stud book in 1901, and by about 1910 the type and temperament were considered established. In today’s FCI standard, the Belgian Shepherd Dog is one breed with four varieties: the short-coated Malinois, the long-coated Groenendael and Tervueren, and the rough-coated Laekenois. The Malinois takes its name from Malines, the French name for the city of Mechelen, where the short-coated type was developed.

As the need for traditional herding declined, the work changed. Traits needed around livestock and farms — attentiveness, agility, stamina and close co-operation — found new uses in working trials, search, guarding and service work. That background explains the breed’s capacity, but it does not mean that every individual is automatically suited to every task.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Malinois works best when activity, recovery and household rules have been planned before the dog arrives. A large empty garden does not replace shared work, and a flat is not automatically unsuitable. What matters is whether the dog can receive daily physical and mental activity, learn to remain calm indoors and be managed safely in stairwells, on public transport and when passing other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. An adult dog that is comfortable being left can normally manage a few hours, while a young puppy cannot be left alone. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, more often when young or old. This is a supervision threshold, not a target for how long a Malinois should be left; the dog’s actual response determines whether training needs to progress more slowly.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to say yes to the following:

- I have a clear training aim and time for both activity and rest every day.
- I have met the parents, or received credible information about their everyday behaviour, MH results, working ability and recovery.
- I have checked official hip, elbow and mental status and asked about epileptic-type seizures, back problems and temperament in the close family.
- I have a plan for children, visitors and other animals based on supervision, separation and gradual training.
- I have access to knowledgeable help if the dog’s intensity, fear, chasing behaviour or stress becomes difficult to manage.

For the right handler, the Malinois is an exceptionally versatile training partner. The sustainable choice, however, is not the puppy that appears most explosive, but the individual whose traits, family history and breeding purpose fit the life you can actually provide.

Belgian Malinois

Deutscher Club für Belgische Schäferhunde e.V. (Germany)

Belgian Malinois: medium‑large, lean, and highly athletic herding dog with a short fawn coat and black mask. Extremely intelligent, intense, loyal, and people‑focused. Needs firm structure, daily mental work, and heavy exercise; thrives with experienced, very active owners.

Acaya's er opdrætter af racen Belgisk hyrdehund – malinois med base i Horsens i Danmark. Opdrættet lægger vægt på arbejdsglæde, drift, stabil mentalitet og sociale egenskaber. Ved udvælgelse til avl vurderes racetype, temperament og samarbejdsvilje. Der planlægges få, nøje udvalgte kuld, og hvalpene socialiseres fra starten med børn, voksne og andre hunde.

Acaya's

Sommerlyst's er opdrætter af racen Tibetansk spaniel med base i Give i Danmark. Der er arbejdet med racen i mere end 40 år.

Sommerlyst's

Hungarian Vizsla

Hungarian Vizsla: medium, athletic gundog with a short golden‑rust coat and expressive amber eyes. Affectionate, people‑oriented and high‑energy, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and gentle, consistent training. Clean, easy‑care coat; bonds closely with active families.

Mette Hedegaard Fiedler, Klaus Brødbæk Fiedler er opdrætter af racen Ungarsk vizsla med base i Malling i Danmark.

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