## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Glädjeskuttet är en uppfödare av rasen Mops med bas i Luleå i Sverige. Uppfödningen av mops har funnits sedan 2013.

Glädjeskuttet

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Groth's är en uppfödare av rasen Dvärgschnauzer med bas i Töre i Sverige. Hundar från uppfödningen har representerat rasens vita färgvariant.

Groth's

## Quick Facts

The Miniature American Shepherd is a small, athletic herding dog and a distinct, internationally recognized breed—not simply an informal name for a small Australian Shepherd. Although the breed was developed from small Australian Shepherds in the United States, it now has its own breed standard and is registered separately.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; developed as a farm, herding and companion dog.
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattle Dogs.
- **Height at the withers:** males 35.5–46 cm and females 33–43.5 cm.
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no fixed range. A healthy weight depends on the dog's height, sex and build.
- **Coat:** a medium-length double coat that may be straight or wavy.
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for physical activity, mental work and recovery.

This is a compact dog, but not an easy shortcut to herding-dog traits in a smaller package. The breed is best suited to someone who wants to train, spend time outdoors and also teach the dog to settle. It can work for a first-time owner who has the time, patience and interest in reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone mainly looking for an uncomplicated dog with low demands for activity and everyday training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature American Shepherd should be well balanced, agile and strong without looking heavy or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than tall. There is a clear size difference across the permitted heights, which is why a single weight range is misleading. Assess body condition, proportions and muscle with a veterinarian rather than comparing every dog with one number for the whole breed.

The coat consists of weather-resistant outer hair and an undercoat whose amount can vary by season and climate. Regular thorough combing is often enough for routine care, but loose undercoat needs more attention during shedding. Bathe the dog when it is actually dirty. The coat should generally be left natural; extensive shaping is not part of normal grooming for the breed.

Accepted base colors are black, red, blue merle and red merle, with or without tan points and white. White may occur in defined areas but should not dominate the head or body. Eyes may be brown, blue, hazel or amber, and a dog may have eyes of different colors or more than one color in the same eye. An unusual eye color is a permitted variation in appearance, not evidence by itself of vision, health or temperament.

The tail may be long or naturally short, known as a natural bobtail, NBT. A short tail is therefore not automatically docked. Docking is prohibited in Sweden, and a Swedish buyer should distinguish a natural bobtail from a surgically shortened tail on an imported dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Miniature American Shepherd as intelligent, biddable, adaptable and loyal, with herding and guarding instincts. It is often alert to its surroundings and quick to react. This can produce excellent responsiveness in training, but also a dog that notices movement, sounds and changes its owner barely registers.

The breed may be reserved with strangers. Reserve means that the dog may wait and observe without seeking contact; it is not the same as being shy, fearful or threatening. Forced greetings rarely make a reserved dog more confident. Instead, give it space, let it observe and reward calm initiatives of its own.

Swedish BPH behavioral-assessment data shows above all that variation within the breed is considerable. Some dogs greet readily, others show little interest, and reactions to surprises, noise and uncertainty differ between individuals. BPH describes the dog's reactions on that day and does not issue a pass or fail. When choosing a puppy, the behavior, recovery and everyday function of the parents and close relatives are therefore more informative than a single label such as “typical temperament.”

The breed's close attention to its family should not be romanticized into a claim that every individual is automatically confident, sociable and easy-going. Ask the breeder how the adult dogs manage visitors, new environments, handling, sounds and quiet inactivity. Request concrete examples and consider any BPH results in context.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature American Shepherd needs an active life, but there is no fixed schedule that suits every individual. A good routine includes walks and free movement where safe, scent work or problem-solving, short training sessions and genuine rest. The dog's age, fitness, health and ability to recover should determine the workload.

Agility, rally obedience, tracking, nosework, obedience, search work, herding and trick training are examples of suitable activities. No particular sport is compulsory. What matters is that the dog uses both body and mind without every day escalating to a higher level of intensity. If the dog still struggles to settle after activity, clearer pauses and better-adjusted training may be the answer—not automatically more exercise.

Reward-based training with clear criteria suits a quick and responsive dog. Start early with engagement, recall, leash skills, handling and waiting calmly. Also train the skills that are easily forgotten: lying quietly while the family eats, disengaging from a task, watching people or dogs pass without intervening, and returning to calm after play.

In daily life, herding and guarding behaviors may appear as following movement, trying to control running or sounding the alarm when something happens. This does not mean that every dog chases children, herds cats or barks a great deal. Observe what triggers the individual dog and teach alternative behaviors before a pattern becomes a habit. Puppies need short, positive experiences and age-appropriate movement; they should not be exercised like fully grown dogs.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, occurs in the Miniature American Shepherd, but the Swedish population is young and evidence for reliable frequency estimates for several other conditions is limited. Insurance coding, small datasets and the low average age of the dogs have made older summaries difficult to interpret. A long list of possible diagnoses therefore says less than verified results from the puppy's parents and close relatives.

It is important to distinguish the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration rules from the breed club's breeding recommendations. The Miniature American Shepherd has no special breed-specific health program marked as a registration condition in the Swedish Kennel Club's current registration rules. The Swedish Miniature American Shepherd Club does, however, recommend that before mating both parents have:

- an HD result of A or B and an ED result of 0
- a clear eye examination no more than 18 months old
- known prcd-PRA status, with a carrier bred only to a genetically clear dog
- known NAD status, using a clear-to-clear or clear-to-carrier combination.

Ask to see the actual result, examination date and how the parents' results are combined. The word “health tested” is not enough. A DNA test can answer only for the variant it targets and does not replace a clinical eye examination.

MDR1, also known as ABCB1, is a gene variant that can affect how the dog handles certain medicines. If the dog has been tested, keep the result and show it to the treating veterinarian. Medication choice and dosage should never be decided from general online breed advice.

Merle must not be bred to merle because the combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle allele and an increased risk of serious sight and hearing problems; such a mating conflicts with Swedish Kennel Club basic rules. A natural bobtail is associated with the NBT trait. The breed club urges caution with NBT-to-NBT combinations while the issue continues to be monitored, which should not be confused with the explicit prohibition of merle-to-merle matings.

## History & Origins

The Miniature American Shepherd was developed in California in the late 1960s by breeding small Australian Shepherds. The aim was a smaller, enduring herding dog that could work sheep and goats, among other livestock, while fitting into a mobile ranch and equestrian life. From 1980 the name Miniature Australian Shepherd was used in registration before the breed later received its current name.

The American breed club was formed in 1990, and the breed entered the American Kennel Club's development registry in 2011. Full American recognition followed in 2015, and the FCI recognized the breed in 2019. The first Swedish litter was born in 2006, while Swedish registration as Miniature American Shepherd began in 2017.

Sweden also has a controlled crossbreeding program in which Australian Shepherds may be used under Swedish Kennel Club registration rules and the offspring are registered as Miniature American Shepherds. This does not alter the dogs' status as members of the recognized breed; the program is a regulated breeding tool. For a buyer, it makes the pedigree and the breeder's aims especially relevant, because traits and size can vary even within the breed standard.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature American Shepherd can live well in either a house or an apartment. The size of the home matters less than how daily life works: the dog needs to get outside, use its senses, train and be able to rest without constantly monitoring the stairwell, windows or garden. A garden can be convenient but does not replace shared activity or environmental training.

With children, adult supervision, clear rules and a resting place where the dog is left undisturbed are essential. Running and loud noise can attract the attention of a herding dog that is sensitive to movement, so calm interactions and breaks before the dog becomes over-aroused matter more than assuming the breed is “good with children.” Children should never be responsible for reading or handling a dog under pressure.

Living with another dog or a cat depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction. Let meetings happen gradually and under control, give the cat escape routes and its own resources, and interrupt fixation or chasing early. The breed comes with no guarantee of compatibility, but its herding background does not make problems inevitable either.

Alone-time training should progress gradually when the dog feels safe, has been exercised and is ready to rest. Start with very short periods and watch how that particular dog responds; prolonged barking, pacing or an inability to eat and rest indicate that training has progressed too quickly. A closed crate may not be used as routine confinement or as a solution to separation problems in Swedish homes.

Before buying a puppy, check more than registration and color. Ask to see the parents' health results and dates, ask about MDR1 and other relevant DNA results, examine temperament and recovery in the family, and discuss how the breeder prioritizes working drive, noise reactions, reserve and the ability to settle. A responsible match is about the kind of daily life the dog was bred and raised for—not just finding the right appearance.

Miniature American Shepherd

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Compact, athletic herding dog bred in the U.S. as a smaller Australian Shepherd. Intelligent, devoted, and “velcro” with family, often reserved with strangers. Needs regular training, mental work, and exercise. Medium double coat in varied colors; generally healthy with 12–15 year lifespan.

Artic Light är en uppfödare av rasen Miniature american shepherd med bas i Hortlax i Sverige. Kennelnamnet har använts sedan 2003 och för Miniature american shepherd sedan 2018.

Artic Light

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

Norwegian Kennel Club

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Frostice är en uppfödare av rasen Shetland sheepdog med bas i Altersbruk i Sverige.

Frostice

Norfolk Terrier

Norfolk Terrier Club of Great Britain

Agria Animal Insurance (Sweden)

The Norfolk Terrier is a small, sturdy working terrier with drop ears and a harsh, low‑shedding coat. Friendly, alert, and confident, it suits families and other dogs when well socialised. Adaptable to flats or houses, it needs daily walks, training, and regular grooming.

Knebergets är en uppfödare av rasen Norfolkterrier med bas i Luleå i Sverige. Kennelnamnets historia sträcker sig tillbaka till 2001.

Knebergets

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Apelbackens är en uppfödare av rasen Labrador retriever med bas i Luleå i Sverige. Verksamheten har en historik med rasen sedan 2013.

Apelbackens

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Kleinspitz is a small, alert companion and watchdog that tends to stay close to its family and quickly notices what is happening around it. It is best suited to an owner who enjoys an active small dog, trains calmly and consistently, and can help it distinguish ordinary everyday sounds from events that genuinely require attention.

- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Breed type:** One of five size varieties of German Spitz
- **Purpose:** Companion and watchdog
- **Height at the withers:** The ideal height is 27 cm, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight. As a practical guide, many Kleinspitz weigh around 5–8 kg, but suitable body condition and proportions matter more than a particular number
- **Coat:** Long, straight outer coat with a dense, soft undercoat
- **Typical traits:** Alert, lively, trainable and often reserved with strangers

The Kleinspitz is a distinct, recognised size variety, not a crossbreed. Its size limits are nevertheless close to those of the Mittelspitz and Pomeranian. In Sweden, certain matings between neighbouring varieties are permitted. Puppies are initially registered as the larger parent’s variety, and for dogs later measured at a show, the final size variety can be determined from 15 months of age. A prospective puppy buyer should therefore ask about both parents’ size and how the breeder handles variety registration.

## Appearance & Coat

The Kleinspitz should be compact and almost square, with a pointed muzzle, small upright ears and a high-set tail carried over the back. The abundant coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck and feathering on the hind legs. Beneath the coat, the body should remain well proportioned and movement should be flowing and springy.

The breed’s ideal height is 27 cm, and the permitted range is 24–30 cm. Rather than stipulating a set number of kilograms, the breed standard links weight to the dog’s size. Assess body condition by touch and with a vet when necessary; a full coat can conceal excess weight and can also make a slender dog look heavier than it is.

Accepted colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf sable, as well as several clearly defined colour varieties, including cream, orange sable, black and tan, and parti-colour with a white ground. Merle is not included in the breed standard. Colour is a matter of appearance and should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully considered mating.

The coat consists of a straight, harsher outer coat and a short, thick, cotton-like undercoat. Brush or comb right through to the skin about once a week and more often during shedding periods. Pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath a harness or collar. The coat should not routinely be shaped by extensive trimming. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than following a fixed timetable.

## Temperament & Personality

The Kleinspitz is usually lively, attentive and strongly oriented towards its people, but it is not automatically sociable with everyone it meets. The breed standard describes a dog with a natural wariness of strangers, without fearfulness or aggression. In everyday life, this may mean that the dog prefers to observe a visitor before seeking contact.

A tendency to bark is an important part of the breed decision. A Kleinspitz often reacts quickly to sounds, movement in a shared stairwell or someone arriving at the door. The goal need not be a completely silent dog, but one that can alert and then settle again. Reward calm behaviour, create distance from recurring triggers and avoid inadvertently reinforcing every alarm by rushing to the window with the dog.

BPH, a standardised behavioural assessment, still has only a small Kleinspitz sample whose owners chose to participate. On average, the group appeared relatively confident and showed few threatening or aggressive reactions, but it was not markedly sociable with strangers either. These findings describe the participating dogs, not every individual. The parents’ behaviour, early experiences and the breeder’s environment offer better guidance about an individual puppy than the breed name alone.

The breed is often described as having little hunting drive, but this is not a guarantee of reliable recall. Curiosity and excitement may still prompt a Kleinspitz to chase birds, wildlife or bicycles. Train recall in gradual stages and use a long line where the surroundings require it.

## Training & Exercise

The Kleinspitz needs daily physical activity and mental engagement, but exercise should be adapted to the individual dog’s age, health and experience rather than a universal number of minutes. Several walks, opportunities to sniff and short problem-solving sessions will often suit it better than one long, monotonous outing.

The breed is quick and trainable, which makes reward-based training effective but also exposes unclear rules. Work in small steps and reward the behaviour you want: four paws on the floor when greeting, attention before a door opens and quiet after an alert. Harsh corrections risk causing fear or more noise and have no place in modern dog training.

Scent work, tricks, balance exercises and everyday obedience can provide useful variety. A healthy adult Kleinspitz may also enjoy longer walks, but fitness should be built gradually. Puppies should be able to move freely in varied ways without forced distances or repetitive jumping. Its small body does not make the dog a fragile ornament, but it does need protection from falls, rough play and exertion for which it is not ready.

Accustom the dog early to brushing, tooth brushing, nail trimming and being examined. Short, positive handling sessions make recurring care easier and improve the chance of noticing changes in the skin, eyes, mouth or movement.

## Health

The Kleinspitz is generally regarded as a relatively healthy small breed, but a considered purchase requires more than a broad claim about healthy lines. Ask to see the official results for both parents and which problems have actually occurred among close relatives.

The Swedish breed club recommends that breeding dogs have normal kneecaps and eyes without recorded abnormalities. Patellar findings are recorded on a scale from 0 to 3, so the actual result must be considered; saying that a dog has been “patella checked” does not reveal what the examination found. An official eye examination must be carried out by an authorised veterinary ophthalmologist and provides a current picture of the dog’s eye status, not a lifelong guarantee.

Recommendations for knee and eye examinations should not be confused with a central health scheme or a separate registration requirement for the Kleinspitz. What matters to a puppy buyer is the actual results, the date of the examinations and how the breeder uses them in breeding decisions.

Be cautious about broad claims concerning DNA tests for PRA. A test that identifies a particular gene variant in another breed does not rule out every form of progressive retinal atrophy in the Kleinspitz. Eye examinations, family history and transparent reporting of findings therefore cannot be replaced by a vague statement that the dogs have been “DNA tested”.

Abnormal coat loss appears in descriptions of small German Spitz, but terms such as BSD or “black skin disease” are used as informal umbrella labels rather than a single confirmed diagnosis. A dog with abnormal hair loss needs veterinary investigation rather than a diagnosis based on its breed or appearance.

As with other dogs, weight management and dental care form part of preventive care. Introduce tooth brushing early and make it a calm daily routine.

## History & Origins

The modern breed origin of the German Spitz – Kleinspitz is in Germany, and it belongs to the FCI group for Spitz and primitive types. The FCI places the five German Spitz varieties under the same breed standard: Wolfspitz/Keeshond, Giant Spitz, Medium Spitz, Miniature Spitz and Pomeranian.

The German Spitz has historically been described as a watchdog and companion. The international breed standard received definitive recognition in 1957, although its wording and size rules have since been revised. Older accounts link German Spitz to very early European dog types, but these origin stories should be read as cynological tradition rather than proven ancestry for today’s Kleinspitz.

The shared standard explains why the boundaries between varieties still have practical importance in breeding and registration. A Kleinspitz is therefore not merely “a small Spitz” in an everyday sense, but the size variety that should fall within the measurements and overall appearance set out in the breed standard.

## Living with the Breed

The Kleinspitz can live successfully in either a flat or a house if it receives activity, rest and help managing sounds. The size of the home matters less than the way daily life is organised. In a flat with poor sound insulation, however, a prospective owner should take the breed’s quick alarm response seriously and plan calmness training from the outset.

With children, the breed can become an engaged family dog, but adults must always take responsibility for the interaction. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children must learn not to disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. Because the Kleinspitz is small, extra care is needed when lifting it and during lively play. No dog, regardless of breed, should be left alone with young children.

Compatibility with a cat or another dog depends more on the individuals and the introduction than on the breed name. Initial meetings should be calm and gradual, with opportunities for distance and separate resources. Previous experience of the other species is helpful but does not guarantee that every combination will work.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in its new home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can cope with without stress. Increase the duration in small steps and reduce it again if the dog begins to bark persistently, pace, destroy things or show other signs of distress.

The Kleinspitz is therefore best suited to someone who wants a small but active dog, can live with regular coat care and is prepared to work on noise, social confidence and everyday skills. It is a poorer choice for someone seeking a quiet, independent dog that is satisfied with brief toilet walks and can be left alone for long working days.

German Spitz – Kleinspitz

VDH (Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen)

The German Spitz – Kleinspitz is a small, squarely built, fox‑faced companion with a dense double coat and curled tail. Alert, lively and strongly bonded to its people, it adapts well to city or country life, needs regular grooming, exercise and training, and can be vocal and watchful.

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

Kennel Tväråstugan är en liten kennel som föder upp 1-3 kullar per år. Vi kan då följa upp valpkullarna och ha en personlig kontakt med valpköparna. Vi ser mer på kvalitét än kvantitét.

Tväråstugan

## Quick Facts

- The Border Terrier is a small British hunting dog, developed to keep up with mounted riders and foxhounds and to work foxes underground.
- The breed standard gives no height at the withers. Males weigh 5.9–7.1 kg and females 5.1–6.4 kg.
- The breed is often sociable and willing to co-operate, but also has a terrier’s independence, stamina and hunting drive.
- The harsh double coat is hand-stripped when the mature topcoat is ready to come out, usually at least twice a year.
- A Border Terrier needs physical and mental activity every day. Recall and calm behaviour around wildlife are important parts of everyday training.
- Sweden has no mandatory breed-specific health programme, but the breed club recommends that breeding dogs have a known SLEM status.
- The breed can live in a flat or a house if its needs are met, it can settle and its barking does not disturb other people.

## Appearance & Coat

The Border Terrier is small but built for work, rather than to look delicate. The body should be deep, narrow and fairly long, with a chest that can be spanned by a person’s hands. This shape helped the dog move through a narrow underground den while retaining the stamina to follow the hunt above ground. The head is commonly described as otter-like, with a short muzzle, small forward-folding ears and an alert expression.

The breed standard deliberately gives no height at the withers. When comparing dogs, weight, proportions, body condition and efficient movement are therefore more useful than a supposedly exact height range. The standard weight is 5.9–7.1 kg for an adult male and 5.1–6.4 kg for an adult female. A Border Terrier should feel agile and muscular, without a broad ribcage or excess weight.

The coat has a hard, dense topcoat and a close undercoat. The recognised colours are red, wheaten, grizzle and tan, and blue and tan. Once the topcoat is mature, it comes away relatively easily and is plucked out by hand. Most dogs need a thorough hand-strip at least twice a year, but the condition of the coat — not the calendar — determines the right time. Between stripping sessions, regular combing and checks of the skin, ears, nails and teeth cover most routine care.

Coat care is based on plucking out the mature, harsh topcoat by hand. Clipping is therefore not the same treatment as hand-stripping. Ask a groomer experienced with harsh-coated terriers to show you how a ready coat feels. Border Terriers do shed, and the breed is not allergy-free.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Border Terrier combines an interest in people with plenty of initiative. The breed had to co-operate with people and dogs above ground while making independent decisions underground. Today, that heritage appears as curiosity, persistence and quick problem-solving. The dog may be highly responsive when the task is worthwhile, yet choose an interesting scent trail in a moment if training offers too little reward.

A Swedish BPH behavioural analysis described the tested dogs as relatively sociable, curious and secure, with little pronounced fear or aggression. That finding is a tendency within the sample, not a promise about every dog: only around three per cent of the relevant Swedish-born population took part, and there was clear variation between individuals. Look at the parents, close relatives and the breeder’s account of everyday behaviour, rather than relying on a general breed description.

A steady Border Terrier can be an involved companion for children, but the breed name is no guarantee of safety. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. The same individual assessment applies around other dogs. Many are sociable, but sex, experience and temperament all matter.

Hunting drive is the main uncertainty around other animals. A dog raised with a cat may learn to live calmly with that particular cat, but this does not predict its response to a running cat outdoors. Rabbits, rodents and other small pets should be kept physically separate. Early, controlled introductions can improve the prospects but cannot remove an inherited chase response.

## Training & Exercise

A Border Terrier needs to use both body and mind every day, but an exact target in minutes says less than how the dog responds and recovers afterwards. A good routine includes walks in varied surroundings, time to sniff, short training sessions and a clear transition to rest. Tracking, nosework, search games, agility and obedience can all suit the breed’s desire to work. Increase the load gradually for puppies and unfit dogs.

Use rewards and break each skill into small steps. Harsh corrections can create conflict without making an exciting wildlife trail any less tempting. Food, play, movement and the chance to sniff can all be rewards. Short sessions with a clear goal usually work better than long strings of repetitions.

Start recall training early, but also plan for the occasions when training is not enough. Begin in an easy environment, reward promptly and introduce distractions gradually. A well-fitting harness and long line offer freedom to move without allowing the dog to complete a chase. Let the dog off lead only where the law, surroundings and that individual dog’s ability make it safe. A reliable stop cue, voluntary check-ins and the ability to disengage from a trigger are at least as useful as the recall cue itself.

A Border Terrier also needs to learn that it does not have to be busy all the time. If the dog still struggles to sleep after activity, patrols windows, barks or keeps finding new projects, it may need more recovery and clearer quiet routines, not automatically more exercise. If it loses muscle condition, becomes restless or invents its own hunting and digging projects, the content of its day needs reviewing.

## Health

There is no mandatory breed-specific health programme for the Border Terrier within the Swedish Kennel Club. Its 2026 registration rules also set no breed-specific requirement for hip, kneecap, eye or heart examination results. This does not make health unimportant. A puppy buyer needs to ask about relevant problems in the family and distinguish binding rules from voluntary examinations and breed-club breeding advice.

SLEM, sometimes called shaking puppy syndrome, is a serious neurological disorder in which puppies develop uncontrolled shaking and poor co-ordination when trying to stand and walk. The breed club recommends a known SLEM status for breeding dogs, established by a DNA test or verified parentage. Breeding advice is based on recessive inheritance: a healthy carrier can be mated to a genetically or hereditarily clear dog without producing affected puppies, while preserving genetic diversity. However, the laboratory offering the test states that the underlying variant has not yet been scientifically published. Ask the breeder to show the results and explain the mating, rather than merely saying that the dogs have been “tested”.

CECS, now often described as paroxysmal dyskinesia or PGSD, is a different condition. Affected dogs may have episodes of abnormal movement, muscle twitching and falling, often while remaining conscious. One study found no single genetic region that explained the condition, and there is no equivalent simple DNA test. The episodes can resemble other neurological problems. If it is safe, record an event and let a vet investigate it; do not alter treatment or diet on the basis of a diagnosis you have made online.

The breed club’s long-term health work also follows recurrent cramp-like episodes, skin and digestive problems, and oral and dental health. Ask how the parents and close relatives have fared over time, not just which certificates were available when the mating took place. A serious discussion covers SLEM status and the parental combination, any episodes, persistent itching or digestive trouble, tooth loss and other recurring illness.

## History & Origins

The Border Terrier developed in the Border District between England and Scotland. The area required a terrier with enough stamina to follow horses and foxhounds over rough ground, yet narrow enough to enter an earth when a fox went below ground. The breed’s size, weather-resistant coat, endurance and independent way of working are all linked to that job.

Local terrier types had several names before Border Terrier became the shared name. The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the breed in 1920. The first documented imports reached Sweden in the 1930s. Imports and breeding work from the 1960s then established a more lasting Swedish population.

The breed is still used for hunting, including work underground, flushing game, short-distance hunting and tracking wounded game. Many also live as active companions. The working background is therefore more than history: it helps explain why today’s Border Terrier readily follows scent, investigates holes and persists with a task even when its owner has other plans.

## Living with the Breed

A Border Terrier best suits someone who appreciates a small dog with plenty of initiative and can combine activity with sound safety routines. Whether the home is a flat or a house matters less than access to walks, mental activity and rest. In a shared building, train calm responses to sounds in the stairwell and movement outside the window from the start. In a house, fencing needs to withstand both digging and a sudden interest in wildlife.

Time alone should be introduced gradually, starting with very short periods. Puppies cannot be left in the same way as adult dogs, and an adult’s ability to cope varies with the individual and the situation. Swedish guidance that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone. Instead, assess whether the dog can genuinely rest without anxiety, barking or destructive behaviour, and arrange help before its limit is reached.

In a home with a cat, give the cat dog-free zones and escape routes. Keep the dog on a lead at first, reward calm behaviour and prevent every attempt to chase. Around children, adult supervision and simple rules are essential: do not disturb the dog while it is eating or resting, and allow it to move away. These routines matter more than broad claims that the breed is “always” good with children or animals.

Ask the breeder the following questions before making a decision:

- What is each parent’s SLEM status, and why is this particular mating safe?
- Have close relatives had CECS/PGSD-like episodes, recurring skin or digestive problems, or dental issues?
- How do the parents cope with rest, unfamiliar people, other dogs, noise and wildlife?
- Are there BPH results, hunting qualifications or other assessments that can be read in context?
- What help will you receive with hand-stripping, recall and everyday questions after you take the puppy home?

The Border Terrier can suit a first-time owner if hunting drive, coat care and consistent training feel appealing rather than burdensome. Someone looking mainly for a dog that can be off lead everywhere, automatically ignores small animals or is content with the same short walk each day should choose for different qualities.

Border Terrier

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Deutscher Terrier Club (Germany)

French Kennel Club (Société Centrale Canine)

Small, sturdy terrier originally bred on the England–Scotland border to hunt foxes. Affectionate, bonded to family, yet independent with strong prey drive. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise, secure fencing, and kind training. Wiry, weather-resistant coat needs brushing and occasional hand stripping.

En liten uppfödning med högt meriterade tikar som är friska och sunda mentalt. Valparna är uppfödda i hem miljö. Registrerade, besiktade, försäkrad. Vaccinerade, chippade, allt enligt skk krav.

Lappstintans

Labolina's är en uppfödare av rasen Miniature american shepherd med bas i Boden i Sverige. Verksamheten har haft erfarenhet av rasen sedan 2024.

Labolina's

## Quick Facts

The Bostonterrier is a small American companion dog whose breed standard calls for a friendly, lively and intelligent temperament. It is often sociable and keen to take part, but its short muzzle makes breathing and temperature regulation important points to check, both when choosing a puppy and when planning daily exercise.

- **Origin and purpose:** United States; companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Size:** The breed standard has three weight classes: under 6.8 kg, 6.8–9 kg and 9–11.3 kg. It gives no official height at the withers.
- **Coat:** Short, smooth and easy to care for.
- **Activity:** A lively dog that needs physical and mental activity every day, with the amount adjusted to the individual dog's breathing, age, fitness and the weather.
- **Before buying:** Ask to see both parents' respiratory assessment, eye examination and patella results, together with their DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bostonterrier should be compact, well balanced and free-moving, without exaggeration in any feature. The head is short, but under the breed standard the muzzle must be no longer than one third of the length of the skull. The nostrils should be open, the eyes should not be excessively prominent and the short tail should be natural from birth.

Accepted colours are brindle, seal or black with white markings. The white markings are an important part of the breed's appearance, but colour and symmetry say nothing about health. Function matters more: the dog should be able to breathe freely, move without restriction and close its eyelids properly.

The short, close coat generally needs little work. Brush and bathe as required, and check the nails, teeth, ears and eyes regularly.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bostonterrier should be friendly, lively and intelligent, and many individuals actively seek human company and want to be involved in daily life. Even so, this does not guarantee that every dog will be comfortable with children, unfamiliar dogs or new environments.

Genetics, early experience, health and training all shape the individual dog. Ask the breeder how the parents behave in ordinary life: how they recover after something unexpected, greet people, cope with other dogs and settle at home. If possible, meet the dam and watch her in a normal situation, rather than only when the puppies are excited.

The breed can be both playful and focused. Reward-based training with clear breaks is usually more suitable than harsh corrections or long, repetitive sessions. Teach calm behaviour, comfortable handling around the eyes and paws, recall, and the ability to wait without becoming overexcited from an early age.

## Training & Exercise

A Bostonterrier needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no safe number of minutes that suits every dog. Combine walks with scent work, short training sessions, play and quiet recovery. A healthy dog with good respiratory function may enjoy a range of dog sports, while a dog that develops noisy or laboured breathing needs a veterinary assessment and adapted activity.

Judge exercise by how the dog breathes and recovers, not by how keen it is to carry on. Stop and move the dog to a cool place if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, if it slows down, struggles to recover or seems unusually hot. Bluish mucous membranes, weakness, collapse or marked breathing difficulty require emergency veterinary care.

Short-muzzled dogs are particularly sensitive to heat because panting is less effective at cooling them. Exercise during the cooler parts of the day, offer water and avoid strenuous activity in hot or humid weather. Excess weight places more strain on the airways and joints, so monitor body condition rather than relying only on the number on the scales.

## Health

The main health checks for a Bostonterrier concern respiratory function, eye health, patella status and early-onset juvenile cataract. Ask for actual examination results for both parents; an energetic impression or quiet breathing during a brief meeting is not a substitute for documentation.

BOAS is an umbrella term for breathing problems that can occur when a short muzzle and the soft tissues in the nose and throat restrict airflow. Snoring should therefore not automatically be dismissed as a harmless breed trait. Look out for breathing noise at rest, laboured inhalation, poor stamina, prolonged recovery, disturbed sleep, heat intolerance or fainting.

The RFG Scheme is a standardised veterinary assessment of respiratory function. The dog is assessed before and after three minutes of brisk movement and receives a grade from 0 to 3. Grade 0 means that the dog is currently clinically unaffected; grades 2 and 3 indicate clinical impairment. Results from dogs aged at least 24 months are registered centrally, while results from younger dogs are recorded as preliminary.

Since May 2026, RFG results for Bostonterriers can be registered centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club, but the assessment is not currently mandatory before breeding for this breed. This should not be confused with the Swedish Kennel Club's general breeding recommendation, which gives first preference to grade 0, or with the breed club's conditions for listing a litter through its puppy referral service.

The eyes are relatively large and exposed. Contact a vet promptly if the dog suddenly squints, keeps one eye closed, rubs it with a paw, or develops a red, watery or cloudy eye; eye pain is treated as an emergency. Early-onset juvenile cataract is a recessively inherited disease affecting both eyes and can cause blindness early in life. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, carries one copy of the disease variant or has inherited it from both parents. Mating two carriers can produce genetically affected puppies and should therefore be avoided.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of position, also occurs in the breed. When a litter is to be included in its puppy referral service, Svenska Bostonterrierklubben asks for details of the parents' latest eye examination, patella results and DNA test or evidence of clear-by-parentage status for juvenile cataract. This is valuable information for a buyer, but it should not be described as a binding registration requirement for every litter.

## History & Origins

The Bostonterrier was developed in and around Boston, Massachusetts, during the latter part of the nineteenth century. Purposeful breeding took shape roughly between 1870 and 1890, but the earliest crosses are not fully documented. The breed can therefore be described as having been developed from the bulldog and terrier types of the time, but no exact mixture can be stated with certainty.

The American Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1893. Over time, it developed from heavier predecessors into the smaller, elegant companion described by today's breed standard. The Bostonterrier is now an internationally recognised breed with the United States as its country of origin.

## Living with the Breed

A Bostonterrier can live successfully in a flat or a house, but the size of the home does not decide whether daily life will work. The dog needs physical and mental activity every day, an undisturbed place to rest, and practice settling when nothing is happening. Barking and sensitivity to noise vary between individuals; if quiet living matters, ask how the parents behave at home.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Start with very short, calm separations and increase the time only while the dog can settle. For dogs kept in Sweden, the Swedish Board of Agriculture states that dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings.

With children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the breed's reputation as a family dog. Children should not lift the dog, pull its ears or approach it while it is eating or sleeping. Introductions to cats and other dogs should be calm and controlled. Previous experience and the individual dog's behaviour carry more weight than the breed name.

Before buying, ask the breeder to show:

- both parents' RFG results and their ages when assessed;
- the latest eye examination and patella results;
- registered DNA status for early-onset juvenile cataract and how it informed the mating;
- how close relatives fare in terms of breathing, eyes, knees and everyday temperament;
- how the puppies are introduced to handling, rest, different surfaces, people and ordinary household sounds.

This provides a better basis for a decision than promises that the breed is always easy, quiet or problem-free.

Bostonterrier

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

The Bostonterrier is a small, sturdy, people‑focused companion with a square build and short, tuxedo‑patterned coat. Cheerful, affectionate, and adaptable, it enjoys both play and relaxing with its family. Grooming is simple, but its short nose and prominent eyes need extra health care.

## Quick Facts

The Boxer is a sociable, energetic and physically powerful working breed that thrives when it can play an active part in family life. It suits someone who wants to devote time to shared exercise, training and play every day, and who enjoys an expressive dog with a strong desire for company and plenty of initiative.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Role:** Working, companion and guard dog
- **Size:** males 57–63 cm and around 30 kg; females 53–59 cm and around 25 kg
- **Coat:** very short, fawn or brindle with a black mask; white markings may occur
- **Activity level:** high, with a need for both physical exercise and purposeful tasks
- **Lifespan:** roughly 9–11 years is a broad guide

The important question is not whether you like the Boxer's appearance, but whether you want to live with a lively, powerful dog that needs guidance. In an active household, a Boxer can be a close, playful and willing companion. It is less suitable for someone looking for a low-energy, independent dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Boxer is a medium-sized, compact dog with a square outline, strong bone and clearly defined muscles. It should look athletic without appearing heavy or cumbersome. The distinctive head has a broad muzzle, a black mask and a natural undershot bite. The muzzle is short, but its proportions should be balanced and the nostrils open; an extremely short muzzle is not the aim.

Males usually stand 57–63 cm at the withers and weigh around 30 kg. Females stand 53–59 cm and weigh around 25 kg. That is enough dog for pulling on the lead, jumping up and unruly greetings to become difficult to manage if training is postponed.

The coat is short, hard, glossy and close-fitting. The base colour is fawn in various shades or brindle, always with a black mask. Small white markings may be present. Entirely or predominantly white dogs do occur, but white is not an accepted colour under the breed standard. When choosing a dog, health and temperament matter more than its markings.

Coat care is straightforward. Brush during periods of heavier shedding, bathe when needed and wipe the paws after wet walks. The short coat makes the skin easy to inspect, so check for redness, itching, sores and new lumps. Examine the ears, nails and teeth regularly too. Nails should be trimmed when they grow too long, and persistent skin or ear problems should be assessed by a vet.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Boxer is sociable, alert, curious and playful. It seeks contact and likes to be wherever the family is, while retaining the watchfulness and confidence of a working dog. Many keep a youthful, physical style of play well into adulthood.

A Boxer can fit very well into an active family with children, but “good with children” is never a guarantee for an individual dog. The breed is strong, quick and often exuberant when excited. Small children can be knocked over accidentally, and play between a dog and a child should always be supervised by an adult. Teach calm greetings, settling on a bed or mat and ending a game from an early age.

Relationships with other dogs vary. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that aggression towards other dogs occurs within the breed, and encounters with other dogs are an everyday challenge for some Boxer owners. This does not mean that Boxers are generally unsociable. It does mean that controlled social training, lead handling and the ability to disengage from other dogs deserve serious attention. Match playmates to the individual and its style of play; a Boxer's physical play may be too intense for small or cautious dogs.

Some Boxers are open with strangers, while others are more reserved. Early, thoughtful socialisation gives the dog experience of people, places, surfaces and everyday sounds without turning every encounter into a greeting. The aim is a confident dog that can remain neutral when the situation calls for it.

## Training & Exercise

A Boxer needs to move and use its brain every day. Short toilet walks alone are not enough for a healthy adult, but the same time target will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, temperature, breathing and health should determine the workload. A good week includes a mix of walks in varied surroundings, free movement in a secure area, play and tasks such as tracking, search work, obedience or other dog sports.

Use reward-based methods. Reward the behaviour you want to see more often with food, play or social contact, and set up each exercise so the dog can succeed. Harsh or frightening methods are unnecessary. Short, focused sessions often suit a lively dog, but variety and a clear daily routine matter most.

Prioritise the skills that make a powerful dog easy to live with:

- walking on a loose lead
- returning when called and stopping play when asked
- passing dogs and people while paying attention to the handler
- greeting with all four paws on the ground
- leaving items and waiting at doors
- switching from activity to rest in a designated place

Lead walking, recall, encounters with other dogs and exuberant greetings were recurring challenges in the Swedish Boxer Club's 2025 owner survey. A puppy or adolescent training class can therefore provide useful help early on. Adapt exercise while the dog is growing and increase duration and intensity gradually instead of immediately taking a young dog running or cycling.

## Health

When choosing a Boxer and breeder, examine the health background carefully. Conditions found in the breed include hip dysplasia, spondylosis, renal dysplasia, knee problems in older dogs, and skin disease and allergies. Heart disease and tumours are also important areas in the breed's health programme. A Swedish study of insured dogs also found a markedly increased risk of mast cell tumours in Boxers.

The Boxer is short-muzzled, but not every Boxer has brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS. Even so, obvious breathing noise, laboured breathing, poor recovery or heat intolerance should not be dismissed as normal for the breed. The Boxer is included in special show guidance that draws attention to breathing, muzzle length and skin. Since May 2026, Boxers in Sweden have also been eligible for the standardised RFG-S breathing assessment. The test can provide more information about a dog's breathing, but it is not a general mandatory breeding requirement for the Boxer.

Ask a breeder to explain the results rather than simply saying that the parents have been “tested”:

- Check the parents' official hip dysplasia results and ask about the planned litter's HD index. The Swedish Boxer Club's strategy cites the Swedish Kennel Club recommendation that the estimated litter index should exceed 100.
- Review the parents' MH temperament assessment results and ask how close relatives behave in everyday life.
- Ask for a heart examination. The breed club recommends auscultation by a specialist or Doppler/ultrasound for both parents.
- Ask for spondylosis radiographs taken after 24 months of age, as recommended by the breed club.
- Ask whether RFG-S has been completed, and listen to the dogs' breathing yourself at rest and after light activity.
- Ask the breeder about cancer, kidney disease, skin problems, knees and longevity among close relatives.

Keep the dog lean and build fitness gradually. Seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, unusually increased thirst or urination, new or changing lumps, or clear breathing difficulty. Early checks cannot remove genetic risk, but they improve the chance of finding a problem promptly.

## History & Origins

The Boxer was developed in Germany from local dog types during the nineteenth century. Its closest documented ancestor is the Brabanter Bullenbeisser, a German bulldog type that worked with hunters. Its task was to seize and hold game driven towards it until the hunter arrived, which explains the importance of the broad muzzle and powerful jaws.

The modern Boxer became a versatile working, guard and companion dog. The first breed standard was published in 1902. The origin of the name Boxer has not been established with certainty, so the idea that it comes from the dog's use of its front paws in play should be treated as a story rather than documented fact.

The breed's background can still be seen in its enthusiasm for work, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate. A modern Boxer does not have to train in a particular discipline, but it benefits from regularly solving tasks alongside its handler.

## Living with the Breed

A Boxer can live in a flat, a terraced house or a detached house; the daily plan matters more than the amount of floor space. A garden is useful but does not replace walks, training and experience of different surroundings. Indoors, the dog needs to learn how to settle. Otherwise, the family may find themselves living with a large, highly aroused dog that continually invents its own activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that some Boxers struggle to be left alone, so arrange a dog sitter or other help if working days are long. Swedish Board of Agriculture guidance says adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings. Six hours is the interval in that guidance, not an assurance that every Boxer is comfortable being alone for that long.

Plan around the weather too. The Boxer's short coat provides limited protection in cold conditions, while the short muzzle calls for extra care in heat. Dogs affected by BOAS may find it harder to regulate their body temperature. Schedule more strenuous activity for cooler parts of a hot day, provide water and shade, and stop if breathing or recovery differs from normal. In cold weather, watch how the dog moves, whether its coat is wet and whether it shows discomfort when deciding if a coat is needed.

The Boxer is best suited to a family that can answer yes to four questions: Do we want to give the dog purposeful activity every day? Can we teach calm behaviour and everyday manners consistently? Do we have a sustainable plan for time alone? Are we prepared to examine health and breathing as carefully as temperament and appearance? If the answer is yes, the breed's energy, humour and strong desire for contact can become its greatest strengths in daily life.

Boxer

The Boxer Club UK

Boxer Klub e.V. Germany

Svenska Boxerklubben (Swedish Boxer Club)

The Boxer is a medium‑large, athletic dog with a short coat and expressive, broad head. Lively, playful, and people‑oriented, it bonds closely with families and is often gentle with children. Energetic and protective, it needs consistent training, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Lilla lileos

## Quick Facts

- The Bedlington Terrier is a British terrier with a pronounced prey drive behind its soft, lamb-like appearance.
- The breed stands around 41 cm and normally weighs 8–10 kg; bitches may be slightly shorter and dogs slightly taller.
- It is often lively outdoors and calm at home, but needs both daily exercise and activities that engage its mind.
- The coat sheds very little, but needs regular combing and clipping roughly every 6–8 weeks.
- Low shedding does not make the breed allergy-free.
- Copper toxicosis is the most important breed-specific health issue to check before buying a puppy.
- The breed can live in a flat or a house, provided it gets enough activity, gradual training for time alone and safe walks.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bedlington Terrier is an agile, muscular dog with an outline unlike that of most other terriers. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, the loin is naturally arched and the underline distinctly tucked up. The head is pear- or wedge-shaped, with no defined stop, while the pale silky topknot accentuates the characteristic lamb-like look. Beneath that elegant exterior is a dog built for speed: the breed standard says it should be capable of galloping fast.

The height at the withers is around 41 cm and the weight 8–10 kg. A slight variation downwards for bitches and upwards for dogs is permitted. The colours are blue, liver or sandy, with or without tan markings. The coat should be thick, stand away from the skin and have a marked tendency to twist, particularly on the head and face. It must not feel harsh.

The coat leaves very little hair behind, but it is not low-maintenance. As a practical guide, it should be brushed and combed at least once a week and clipped roughly every 6–8 weeks. Mats may require more frequent attention, especially after woodland walks and in areas where the coat is exposed to friction. The traditional breed trim takes skill, so ask the breeder about a practical pet trim and for details of a groomer who knows the Bedlington Terrier.

The ears need close attention because dense hair growth and narrow ear canals have been noted within the breed. Check regularly for redness, unpleasant odour, itching or recurring trouble, and contact a vet if symptoms appear. Clipping and regular inspection make problems easier to spot, but do not replace a veterinary assessment.

Although the Bedlington Terrier sheds little, this does not make it hypoallergenic. Dog allergens come from sources including skin and saliva, and the amount varies between individuals. Anyone with a dog allergy therefore needs to assess the particular dog and their own reaction rather than relying on coat type alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bedlington Terrier combines a friendly, affectionate manner with a terrier’s courage and interest in pursuing prey. The breed ideal is a lively, alert and intelligent companion that is gentle when at rest but ready to act when something happens. This captures the breed’s range well: the same dog may lie quietly on the sofa and moments later want to sprint after something that moves.

Many individuals enjoy close contact with their family and settle well indoors once their needs have been met. Some can be a little reserved with strangers. Shyness and nervousness, however, are not part of the breed ideal. A puppy’s experiences, the parents’ temperament and the owner’s daily routine all influence how the adult dog develops, so meet the dam and, if possible, other relatives of the puppy.

Swedish behavioural assessments and owner surveys give a nuanced picture of how the breed behaves around other dogs. A small group assessed through BPH, the Swedish behavioural and personality assessment, showed low aggression overall, while an owner survey also mentioned individuals that struggled during dog encounters, particularly some males. The conclusion is not that the breed is aggressive or invariably easy, but that the individual dog and the way introductions are handled matter greatly. Choose calm encounters, reward attention to the handler and do not let cramped or chaotic situations shape socialisation.

The strong prey drive is documented in the breed standard and should be taken seriously. A Bedlington Terrier may react very quickly to wildlife, cats or other small animals. Some individuals can live happily with a familiar cat, but the breed name alone offers no guarantee. Always plan for safe management, and separate the dog from small pets whenever you cannot supervise them together.

## Training & Exercise

The Bedlington Terrier needs daily exercise, but a fixed number of minutes will not suit every individual. A good routine includes walks, opportunities to stretch out safely and a task that demands concentration. Age, health, fitness and what the dog did the previous day all affect what is appropriate. A contented dog should be able to settle at home, rather than simply becoming more highly aroused as walks grow longer.

The breed can enjoy agility, tracking, blood tracking, rally obedience or ordinary everyday training. The exact activity matters less than giving the dog a chance to use body and mind with its owner. Search games, balance work, short obedience sessions and controlled play provide variety without turning every day into a major training project.

Use rewards, clear criteria and short sessions. The Bedlington Terrier is intelligent and can learn quickly, but a terrier’s independence makes meaningless repetition less appealing. Reward the behaviour you want in everyday life: voluntarily checking in, waiting calmly at a door, walking with you on the lead and breaking off a chase during play. Harsh corrections risk damaging cooperation and are not needed to set clear boundaries.

Recall training should begin early, but a strong prey drive can override even a well-learned cue. Use a long line wherever the surroundings are not secure, and only allow the dog off lead where a failed recall cannot have serious consequences. The aim is not to prove that the dog always obeys; it is to build a long history of successful repetitions while keeping a line or secure enclosure as backup.

## Health

Copper toxicosis is the most important known breed-specific disease in the Bedlington Terrier. In the COMMD1-related form, an inherited change can cause copper to build up in the liver. Inheritance is autosomal recessive, which means that a dog must inherit the relevant variant from both parents to be genetically affected.

A COMMD1 test can return a result of clear, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not ill from the tested variant but can pass it on. A genetically affected dog has two copies and is at risk of developing the disease during its lifetime. A clear result applies to the deletion examined by the test; it does not rule out every other possible cause of liver disease or copper toxicosis.

The Scandinavian Bedlington Club requires the parent dogs to have been DNA tested through the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences before a litter can be listed by the club’s puppy referral service. The club also requires an eye examination for that service. These conditions are not the same as a special registration requirement imposed by the Swedish Kennel Club: its registration rules for 2026 contain no Bedlington-specific requirement for DNA testing or eye screening. The distinction matters when you assess what a breeder has actually done.

Ask to see documents rather than simply accepting that the dogs have been “tested”:

- identifiable COMMD1 results for both parents and an explanation of what the combination means,
- current eye examination results and how any findings influenced the breeding decision,
- information about recurring liver, eye, skin or ear problems among close relatives,
- the breeder’s plan for following the puppies’ health after they leave.

Skin and ears are among the matters monitored by the Swedish breed club. Older surveys have reported itching, ear infections, heavy hair growth in the ears and narrow ear canals, but a survey does not predict the risk for every puppy. Treat the information as a reason to ask questions and stay observant, not as a diagnosis. Recurring itching, head shaking, redness or weeping eyes should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Bedlington Terrier was developed in Northumberland in northern England and is particularly associated with the mining town of Bedlington. It was previously known as the Rothbury Terrier. The early dogs needed to be fast, strong and versatile, and were used to hunt rabbits as well as other small quarry and vermin.

A breed association was formed in 1877, after the standard had begun to take shape in the later part of the 1800s. The journey from local working terrier to today’s more elegant show dog and companion is well documented, but accounts of precisely which other breeds contributed to its development are less certain. Its hunting background and working-terrier character are therefore a more reliable legacy than any single disputed cross.

The Bedlington Terrier reached Sweden in the early 1900s. Today it is kept there mainly as a companion and show dog, although its speed, courage and aptitude for dog sports still reflect its origins.

## Living with the Breed

A Bedlington Terrier can live in a flat as well as a house. The size of the home matters less than the daily routine: the dog needs to go out, use its mind and have somewhere safe to run. A garden does not replace walks, and fencing must be reliable if wildlife or cats pass nearby.

With children, the same ground rules apply as with any other dog. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left alone. The Bedlington Terrier’s friendly breed ideal is not a guarantee against misunderstandings, and children must not climb on, disturb or try to pick up the dog.

Time alone must be introduced gradually after the puppy feels secure in its new home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in how readily they settle without company. Build the training in small steps and organise daily life around the dog in front of you, not around a fixed number claimed for the breed.

Budget time and money for regular grooming. Anyone who does not want to learn a practical pet trim will need to find a groomer experienced with the breed and book visits roughly every 6–8 weeks. Weekly combing, ear checks and calm handling practice should also become part of the routine from puppyhood.

The breed best suits someone who wants a close companion but also respects a terrier’s prey drive and independence. Before buying, meet adult dogs, examine the COMMD1 and eye results, ask how the coat is maintained and make a concrete plan for exercise, time alone and any small pets in the home. That makes it much easier to decide whether the soft exterior and decisive character fit the same household.

Bedlington Terrier

Association Canine Allemande (VDH - German Kennel Club)

Bedlington Terriers are small, lamb-like yet athletic terriers with a lean, arched body and distinctive curly, low-shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Originally bred for hunting, they are fast, curious, sensitive, devoted family dogs with strong prey drive and benefit from kind training and daily exercise.

Mc Madness är en uppfödare av rasen Bedlingtonterrier med bas i Hortlax i Sverige. Verksamheten registrerades 1997.

Mc Madness

## Quick Facts

The Standard Schnauzer is a medium-sized, active and watchful dog from Germany. This page concerns the medium-sized breed known in Swedish simply as Schnauzer. The name is not an umbrella term for the Miniature Schnauzer, Standard Schnauzer and Giant Schnauzer; these are three separate breeds with their own standards and partly different health concerns.

- The FCI places the Standard Schnauzer in Group 2 and lists Germany as its country of origin.
- The standard gives a height of 45–50 cm and a weight of 14–20 kg for both dogs and bitches.
- The body is strong, compact and approximately square.
- The recognised colours are pure black with black undercoat and pepper and salt.
- The coat is double, dense and wiry and needs regular combing and trimming.
- The breed ideal combines a lively temperament with thoughtful calm, playfulness, loyalty and vigilance.

The Standard Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and do things with their dog, while also teaching it to settle. A first-time owner can do well if daily life includes reward-based training, coat care and clear routines. The breed name cannot, however, guarantee how easy an individual dog will be. The behaviour of the parents and adult relatives is more informative.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Schnauzer is unmistakably medium-sized: 45–50 cm and 14–20 kg apply to both sexes. It should be more compact than slender, with height at the withers roughly equal to body length. The long head, beard and bushy eyebrows create the characteristic expression.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The topcoat should be wiry rather than soft, wavy or silky. A black Standard Schnauzer should be pure black, including the undercoat. Pepper and salt can range from dark iron grey to silver grey, but should have a harmonious dark mask. Clearly light markings on the head, chest or legs are undesirable under the standard.

Coat care is a regular part of life with the breed. As a practical guide, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests trimming about four times a year and combing at least weekly. Trimming removes old topcoat so that the wiry texture can be maintained. Owners who clip the coat still need to comb through the beard, eyebrows, belly and leg furnishings and prevent mats next to the skin. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how dogs from that particular line are groomed; a practical lesson is more useful than a generic timetable.

A well-kept, trimmed Standard Schnauzer often sheds little loose hair, but the breed is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin cells, saliva, urine and substances from the sebaceous glands, among other sources. Low shedding therefore cannot predict how an allergic person will react. Seek medical advice before buying a dog instead of relying on claims based on breed alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Standard Schnauzer should be lively, good-natured, playful and watchful while also capable of calm. It is often attentive to people, sounds and movement around the home. The breed's earlier work as a farm and guard dog is consequently more apparent in some individuals than in others.

The Swedish Kennel Club's current BPH analysis, produced after the breed passed 200 assessments, is particularly useful because it shows the variation behind the breed description. The dataset includes 284 Standard Schnauzers assessed through BPH, but only about 12 per cent of Swedish-born dogs born from 2010 to 2023 took part. The results therefore describe the participating dogs, not every member of the breed. The group includes dogs that do not greet a stranger and dogs that greet intensely. Interest in play also varies considerably. Few showed threatening behaviour towards a stranger, while responses varied more when a disguised person approached in an unusual way.

For a prospective puppy owner, the conclusion is practical: do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to see how they receive visitors, accept handling, recover after a surprise and move from activity to rest. Their BPH or MH records can also be useful, but BPH is a description, not a test with a pass or fail result.

The breed standard says that the Standard Schnauzer should be vigilant without being noisy. That is a breeding ideal, not a promise of silence. In a home where sound travels easily, reward calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows from the start, and teach the dog what to do after it has noticed a sound.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Schnauzer needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but its needs cannot be calculated with a fixed number of minutes. A good routine alternates walks, free movement in a secure place, scent work, everyday training, play and recovery. Judge the outcome: the dog should be able to work willingly, remain responsive to its handler and then settle, rather than becoming increasingly overstimulated.

Training should be positive, reward-based and progressive. Make the desired behaviour clear and adapt the reward to the individual; food, play and the opportunity to sniff vary in value from one dog to another. Short sessions can be useful when a young dog loses focus, but there is no universal time limit. Increase the difficulty only when the dog succeeds in the easier situation.

The breed's background as a rat catcher makes it sensible to take reactions to movement and an interest in chasing seriously. It does not mean that every Standard Schnauzer chases to the same degree or has a particular recall “score”. Practise recall with gradually stronger distractions and use a long line or enclosed area until you know how your dog responds to wildlife, cats, cyclists and runners. A safety measure is not a training failure.

Scent work, tracking, rally obedience and other co-operative activities can suit the breed well, but choose activities according to the dog's body, motivation and ability to recover. The aim is a sustainable routine, not to fill the diary with as many activities as possible.

## Health

The Standard Schnauzer is described as a broadly healthy breed, but a puppy buyer should pay particular attention to hips, diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's openness. The current Swedish breed strategy also monitors gastrointestinal problems, mammary and skin tumours, and claw injuries.

Hip dysplasia, or HD, has a complex background in which both heredity and environment play a part. A and B denote normal hips, C mild dysplasia, D moderate dysplasia and E severe dysplasia. A radiograph shows the shape of the joint, not automatically whether the dog is in pain. Even two dogs graded A or B can produce offspring with HD, particularly when other close relatives have poorer hips.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for a known hip score on the Standard Schnauzer. This should not be confused with the breed strategy's monitoring of HD and its aim to increase the number of screened dogs. Ask for the parents' official results and look at siblings and previous offspring as well. This gives you a broader basis for judging the results without misrepresenting a recommendation as a registration rule.

The health surveys underlying parts of the breed strategy received 121 and 303 responses respectively. They identify issues the breed club needs to monitor, but do not provide reliable odds for the whole population. Ask the breeder about diagnosed gastrointestinal disease, mammary or skin tumours and recurring claw injuries in the parents, siblings and previous litters. That is more relevant than a long list of eye, heart or DNA tests borrowed from the Miniature or Giant Schnauzer.

Temperament information is also part of the overall picture. A BPH result can provide an indication about a parent, but it should be considered alongside everyday behaviour, relatives and the breeder's objectives.

## History & Origins

The Standard Schnauzer developed in southern Germany as a robust farm and stable dog. It was at home around horses, watched over its surroundings and caught rats quickly, earning the dog type the popular name “Rattler”. When the Pinscher-Schnauzer club was founded in 1895, the breed was entered as the wire-haired Pinscher.

The Swedish breed strategy states that the word “Schnauzer” appeared in literature in 1842 and probably refers to the characteristic moustache. Names subsequently changed. In the Swedish stud book the breed was called the German wire-haired Pinscher in 1913, Schnauzer from 1928 and Medium Schnauzer from 1942. In 2003, the Swedish breed name returned to Schnauzer.

This is the securely documented core. There are further stories about the breed's past, but they are less well supported and are not needed to understand today's Standard Schnauzer.

## Living with the Breed

The Standard Schnauzer can live in a house or flat if it receives daily activity, rest and help in coping with its surroundings. In a flat, how easily sounds carry matters more than floor area: notice how the dog responds to the front door, lift and neighbours, and teach a calm alternative to continued alerting. Safe and straightforward access to walks makes everyday life considerably easier.

An adult must supervise interactions with children. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. A robust body does not oblige a dog to tolerate being clung to, interrupted sleep or rough play.

Time alone is introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a trained adult may manage a few hours. Increase the time according to the dog's behaviour and step back if it shows distress or cannot settle. A breed label cannot supply a safe time limit.

The same caution applies to other animals. The ratting background can make small, fast-moving animals difficult for some individuals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings short and always give the cat escape routes. How quickly the animals can have more freedom depends on how calm they are together, not how long they have lived under the same roof.

Before buying, it is particularly useful to check:

- that advice about size, health and daily life concerns the Standard Schnauzer rather than another schnauzer breed;
- the parents' registration numbers, official hip results and the health of close relatives;
- BPH or MH descriptions alongside the parents' everyday behaviour;
- how the breeder works with sociability, vigilance, recovery and co-operation;
- which grooming routine the puppy is used to and who can teach it to you;
- how gastrointestinal problems, tumours and claw injuries have been followed up in previous litters.

A good match is a home that appreciates an alert dog that enjoys working, has time for coat care and can balance activity with calm. Anyone seeking a dog guaranteed to be quiet, allergy-safe or uncomplicated should look beyond the Standard Schnauzer's handsome beard.

Standard Schnauzer

The Schnauzer Club of Great Britain

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Swedish Schnauzer Club)

Pinscher Schnauzer Klub (Germany)

Medium, robust farm‑bred dog with a wiry low‑shedding coat in pepper‑and‑salt or black. Intelligent, watchful and protective yet affectionate and playful. Needs daily exercise, mental work, early socialization and regular grooming; generally healthy and long‑lived.

Vi är en liten kennel som föder upp standard Schnauzer och våran plan är att ha ca 1 kull/år. Vi som har denna kennel heter Carita Hjelm och Jeanette Mattsson och vi bor båda två i Södra Sunderbyn (Luleå) med våra familjer. Vi avlar på friska och mentalt sunda hundar.

Lowicama

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Fjällskallets är en uppfödare av rasen Pomeranian med bas i Piteå i Sverige. Kennelnamnet har använts för rasen sedan 2022.

Fjällskallets

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Spitz is a Finnish Nordic hunting dog developed primarily for hunting forest game birds. It ranges independently, flushes the bird and uses its bark to mark the bird in the tree while the hunter approaches. Barking is therefore part of the breed's work, not merely an everyday behaviour that can easily be trained away.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** Barking bird dog, primarily for forest game birds
- **Height:** Males 44–50 cm and females 39–45 cm at the withers
- **Overall appearance:** Slightly smaller than medium-sized, lightly built and nearly square
- **Coat:** Double coat with a dense undercoat and red or golden-red topcoat
- **Typical traits:** Lively, determined, independent and very vocal

The breed is best suited to someone who genuinely wants to channel its desire to work, ideally through hunting or carefully planned scent and search activities. Anyone looking for a quiet companion or a dog that will always remain close when off lead should think very carefully before choosing this breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Spitz is built for agile work in woodland. Its body length should be roughly equal to its height at the withers, giving it a light, firm and nearly square outline. The current FCI standard specifies 44–50 cm for males, with 47 cm as the ideal, and 39–45 cm for females, with 42 cm as the ideal. The standard gives no weight. Figures found elsewhere are therefore guides rather than an official standard requirement; body condition, build and working fitness say more about the individual dog.

The head is clean-cut and wedge-shaped, the ears are small, pointed and erect, and the bushy tail curves forwards over the back. Movement should be light and free. These features support a working dog with stamina; they are not merely details for the show ring.

The coat consists of a soft, dense, pale undercoat and straighter, harsher guard hairs. The outer coat stands away from the body, particularly over the neck and back, while it is shorter on the head and legs. The breeches and tail are fuller. The colour should be red or golden red, with paler shades on areas including the chest, abdomen, inside of the legs and underside of the tail. A small white mark on the chest and a little white on the feet are permitted.

Comb through the coat often enough to find loose undercoat and tangles, particularly during seasonal shedding when the volume of loose hair can increase markedly. The right frequency depends on the season, the amount of coat and the dog's daily life. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than to a fixed schedule, and use the opportunity to check the skin, claws, ears and paws. Do not assume that a Finnish Spitz will suit someone with allergies: there are no allergy-free dog breeds, and allergen levels vary between individuals regardless of how much they shed.

## Temperament & Personality

A Finnish Spitz should be lively, energetic, courageous and determined. It may be reserved with strangers but should not be aggressive. In daily life this often means an alert dog that notices movement and sound quickly and is keen to comment on it vocally.

Its independence comes from the hunt. The dog must be able to range, make decisions and continue working without constant direction, while still cooperating with the hunter. This does not mean that every individual is difficult to train. It means that the handler needs to make engagement and cooperation rewarding rather than relying on repeated commands.

How a Finnish Spitz lives with children, other dogs or cats depends on the individual, its experience and the way introductions are managed. A well-socialised dog may fit well into family life, but the breed name is no guarantee. Children and dogs always need calm rules for interaction and adult supervision. Fast-moving small animals may trigger hunting interest, so introductions should be controlled and the animals must be separable when nobody is supervising them.

Ask the breeder how the parents behave at home, with unfamiliar people and while hunting. If possible, meet the adult dam and watch how she recovers after activity and unexpected events. This tells you more than a general statement that the breed is 'family-friendly'.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Spitz needs regular physical activity and tasks that engage its nose, desire to search and problem-solving ability. No single daily walking target suits every dog. Instead, consider whether the dog can concentrate, settle after activity and maintain an even body condition without becoming persistently restless or overtired.

Hunting and hunting training are closest to the breed's original work. Dogs that do not hunt still need purposeful tasks in everyday life, such as woodland searches, tracking, finding hidden objects, food searches or short training sessions that use both nose and brain. Brisk physical exercise alone does not always provide the same satisfaction as a search task with a clear purpose and finish.

Reward-based, consistent training suits a dog that likes to see a point in the task. Start early with engagement, recall, lead skills, handling and a calm cue that ends barking. Reward voluntary check-ins and turning away from distractions. Begin where success is likely and increase the difficulty gradually.

Recall should not be treated as a guarantee once hunting interest has been triggered. Use a long line where it is permitted and safe, and only let the dog off lead where the law, wildlife, traffic and that individual's training all allow it. A securely enclosed area is the safer option when you want to provide freedom without testing an uncertain recall.

A puppy needs movement, exposure to everyday environments and opportunities to explore, but not long, repetitive sessions or a rigid minute-by-minute formula. Vary the surface and type of activity, allow the puppy to set the pace and increase the load gradually. If the puppy slows down during the outing or is unusually exhausted afterwards, the session was too demanding. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training from the outset.

## Health

The Finnish Spitz is generally described as a healthy breed, but there are three clear subjects to ask about before buying a puppy: epilepsy, patellar luxation and missing teeth. This is more useful than listing every condition that can affect dogs in general.

Epileptic seizures have been documented in the breed, and the Swedish breed club uses family information and a dedicated EP index in its breeding work. An index is a risk-management tool, not a diagnosis or a guarantee for an individual puppy. Ask the breeder to explain how the EP index for the proposed pairing and any known seizures in the family have been assessed. Any seizure-like signs in a dog require veterinary assessment.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. The breed club recommends that breeding dogs have a recorded result from a vet authorised to perform the examination. Ask to see the results for both parents rather than accepting only a verbal assurance that their knees are sound. Missing teeth, particularly premolars, also occur. Ask to see a recorded dental status and whether missing teeth are known in close relatives.

It is important to distinguish a recommendation from a formal requirement. In the Swedish Kennel Club's current registration rules, the Finnish Spitz has no breed-specific health-programme marker and no special registration condition for HD, patella or eye examinations. This does not mean that health screening has no value. It means that a buyer should check which examinations have actually been carried out and how the breed club's current guidance has been followed, rather than assuming that registration automatically covers them.

A practical pre-purchase checklist is therefore:

- ask for the recorded patella results of both parents;
- ask for dental records and known missing teeth in close relatives;
- ask the breeder to explain the epilepsy information, EP index and known seizures in the family;
- review the veterinary certificate and insurance terms before signing the contract;
- ask what health information the breeder would like you to report as the dog grows older.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Spitz developed from Finland's native dog population and is closely associated with forest bird hunting. The first breed standard was written in 1892, and the first breed show was held that same year. The first trial for barking bird dogs took place in 1897. Finland named the Finnish Spitz its national dog in 1979.

Its working method explains much of the breed's form and temperament. The dog searches the forest, locates the bird and uses sustained barking to mark where it is sitting and direct the hunter's attention to the right tree. The ability to work independently, move nimbly over terrain and use its voice has therefore been retained as a central part of the breed.

In 2006, the Karelian-Finnish Laika was combined with the Finnish Spitz under the same FCI standard. This is a documented part of the breed's modern organisational history, but it does not change the most important question for a buyer: how today's breeder balances hunting ability, temperament, health and genetic diversity in the proposed litter.

## Living with the Breed

Life with a Finnish Spitz works best when hunting drive and barking are treated as real characteristics, not as surprises discovered after purchase. The breed can live in a house or a flat, but the address matters less than the sound environment, daily outings and access to meaningful activity. In a flat with poor sound insulation, you need a considered plan for reactions to sounds at the door, watching from windows, rest and consideration for neighbours. No responsible plan can promise that an individual will become completely quiet.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually, beginning with very short periods when the dog is relaxed and has eaten, exercised and relieved itself. Do not increase the duration solely according to the clock; step back if the dog starts pacing, barking, trying to escape or struggling to settle. Puppies should not be left to 'get used to it' through prolonged distress.

Safe routines make daily life easier: use a lead or long line where wildlife and traffic make off-lead exercise unsuitable, provide a secure resting place, block visual triggers that prompt barking when necessary, and offer regular tasks in which the dog can search and succeed. After activity, the dog should be able to wind down. If increasing amounts of exercise simply leave it more overstimulated, adjust the balance between intensity, scent work and recovery.

The Finnish Spitz is well suited to a hunter or active handler who values an independent and expressive working partner. It is a poorer match for someone who needs a quiet dog, expects reliable off-lead freedom without substantial training or wants a placid companion requiring little activity. Being honest about those differences makes it possible to choose the breed for the right reasons.

Finnish Spitz

The Finnish Spitz Club of Great Britain

The Finnish Spitz Club (UK)

Denmark Kennel Club

Finnish Spitz is Finland’s national dog, a medium, foxlike, golden‑red spitz bred to hunt by “bark pointing.” Lively, intelligent, vocal, and affectionate with family but reserved with strangers, it needs regular exercise, mental stimulation, and typically lives 13–15 years.

Anselmgårdens är en uppfödare av rasen Finsk spets med bas i älvsbyn i Sverige. Uppfödningen har fött upp finsk spets under kennelnamnet sedan 2001.

Anselmgårdens

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Wheatma's är en uppfödare av rasen Irish softcoated wheaten terrier med bas i Luleå i Sverige. Uppfödningen hade sin första kull i februari 2020.

Wheatma's

## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

## Quick Facts

The Continental Bulldog is a medium-sized, powerful and agile bulldog from Switzerland. It was developed as a companion and family dog by crossing the English Bulldog with the Old English Bulldog. The breed belongs to FCI Group 2 and has been provisionally, rather than definitively, recognised by the FCI since 2022. The current international breed standard was published in 2026.

- **Purpose:** companion and family dog
- **Height at the withers:** males 42–50 cm, females 40–48 cm
- **Weight:** usually 20–30 kg depending on size; the standard gives reference weights of about 30 kg for males and 25 kg for females
- **Build:** athletic and almost square, although the body should be about 20 per cent longer than the height at the withers
- **Coat:** short, dense, smooth and glossy; some dogs have no undercoat
- **Ideal temperament:** attentive, self-confident and friendly, neither aggressive nor shy
- **Important health consideration:** breathing and eyelids must be assessed in the individual dog; the breed’s breeding aims do not guarantee trouble-free breathing

The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable and active dog. Its compact build should not be taken to mean that brief toilet walks are enough. A prospective owner also needs to examine breathing, eyes and documented health results as carefully as temperament and appearance.

## Appearance & Coat

The Continental Bulldog should look like an athletic bulldog, not an extremely short-muzzled or heavy dog. Its body is compact and muscular, but it should move with an even, fluid gait. The ratio of height at the withers to body length is about 1:1.2, so the dog is slightly longer than it is tall. The official height ranges are 42–50 cm for males and 40–48 cm for females.

The head is powerful without excessive skin or wrinkles. The nose must be completely black, with large, wide-open nostrils. The muzzle should normally be about one third of the total head length, with one quarter accepted as the lower limit. This is an important functional detail: breed type must not come at the expense of open airways. The eyes should be neither sunken nor protruding, and the eyelids should fit closely without visible irritation.

The current FCI standard from 2026 permits fawn in shades from sand to red, brindle and black. These colours may occur with varying amounts of white or a dark mask, while white may be the base colour with markings in the permitted colours. Older information stating that every colour with a black nose is accepted is therefore no longer current.

The coat is short, close-fitting and easy to inspect. Brush and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it rather than following a fixed weekly timetable. At the same time, check the skin, paws, ears and any facial folds. Persistent redness, dampness, itching or recurring irritation should be assessed by a vet, not merely concealed by more frequent cleaning.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Continental Bulldog should be attentive, self-confident and friendly. This describes the breed ideal, not a promise about every puppy. Genetics, early experiences, environment, training and health all influence how an adult dog responds to people, dogs and unfamiliar situations.

The breed was developed to live closely with people and may enjoy joining in family activities. Its powerful build and playfulness, however, make calm everyday training just as important as social contact. Teach the puppy early to greet people with all four paws on the ground, wait at doors, give up objects and settle when nothing is happening. These skills help both in a home with children and when visitors arrive.

A Continental Bulldog can be a first dog for a well-informed owner who wants to train consistently and with rewards. It is a poorer choice for someone looking for a dog that is content with brief walks, can be left alone without training or will handle every social situation automatically. An adult weighing 20–30 kg also requires everyone in the household to be able to manage lead walking, encounters with other dogs and exciting situations safely.

Observe the parent dogs in everyday situations if possible. Ask how they respond to strangers, handling, encounters with other dogs and recovery after activity. A general description such as “lovely family dog” is less useful than concrete examples and a recorded behaviour assessment.

## Training & Exercise

The Continental Bulldog needs daily physical activity, scent work, learning and opportunities to settle. There is no reliable rule in minutes that suits every adult, and a puppy’s exercise should not be governed by the simplistic five-minute rule. Age, build, surface, intensity, temperature, breathing and recovery provide better guidance than a universal timer.

Combine walks with calm scent work, engagement exercises, body awareness and short training sessions. Reward the behaviour you want and increase difficulty gradually. The breed can be both strong and enthusiastic, so lead manners, recall, impulse control and the ability to settle are practical foundation skills. Harsh corrections or training based on fear are unnecessary and may undermine both confidence and co-operation.

A growing puppy benefits from self-directed play, exploratory walks and several short everyday experiences. Avoid repeatedly asking for hard jumps, sudden stops or other loads for which the puppy is not prepared, but do not treat normal movement as dangerous. Increase activity gradually and make sure the puppy can rest undisturbed.

According to the breed standard, breathing should remain quiet even when the dog moves at speed. Stop and let the dog cool down if breathing becomes laboured, recovery takes too long or the dog loses pace and willingness. Take particular care in hot weather. Repeated breathing noise, abdominal effort, open-mouth breathing after little exertion, overheating or fainting are warning signs that require veterinary assessment.

## Health

The Swedish population is still too small for disease prevalence to be assessed reliably. It is therefore misleading both to call the breed problem-free and to present a long list of diagnoses as though every condition were common. Breathing and eyelids are the most clearly documented risk areas, while joints, DNA results and behaviour form part of the Swedish breed club’s breeding recommendations.

The Continental Bulldog is brachycephalic and is included in the Swedish Kennel Club’s instructions for reducing conformational exaggerations. These identify laboured or noisy breathing together with an excessively short muzzle, pinched nostrils and narrow airways. Incorrectly formed eyelids are the other named risk area. In the breed standard, breathing noise at rest or in motion, as well as inward- or outward-rolling eyelids, are disqualifying faults.

Since May 2026, Continental Bulldogs have been eligible for RFG-S assessment in Sweden. The vet assesses features including the nostrils and breathing before and after exercise, and results for dogs registered with the Swedish Kennel Club can be viewed in its public records. Ask for the parents’ results and also observe how the dogs actually breathe and recover. A test result is valuable information, but it does not replace observation over time.

It is also important to distinguish requirements from recommendations. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules contain no breed-specific HD or ED status requirement for the Continental Bulldog, and the group’s explicit RFG-S requirement applies to the English Bulldog. The Swedish breed strategy nevertheless recommends known HD and ED status, DNA results for cystinuria and DVL2, and a completed BPH behaviour assessment. These are relevant records to request, but they should not be described as compulsory Swedish Kennel Club tests for the breed.

Ask the breeder to show the original results and explain how they informed the choice of mating. Also ask about breathing, eyes, skin, urinary problems and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring. For cystinuria and DVL2, find out exactly which variant was tested and how the result affected the mating; the labels “DNA tested” or “health tested” are not enough on their own.

## History & Origins

The Continental Bulldog is a young Swiss breed with a clearly documented beginning. In 2000, the Swiss kennel organisation authorised breeder Imelda Angehrn to cross the English Bulldog with the Old English Bulldog. The first litter of the so-called Pickwick crosses was born in the summer of 2001.

The breeding programme aimed to produce a medium-sized bulldog with better mobility, quiet breathing, and natural mating and whelping. These were breeding goals, not guarantees for every dog born. When the project developed into a separate breed, the Swiss kennel club authorised continued breeding under the name Continental Bulldog on 15 September 2004. The Swiss breed club was founded that same year.

The FCI accepted the breed on a provisional basis on 30 March 2022. Provisional status means that the breed is listed internationally by the FCI but is not yet definitively recognised. The current official standard is dated February 2026 and was published in March of that year. This timeline is more accurate than simply saying that the breed gained full FCI recognition in 2022.

## Living with the Breed

The Continental Bulldog can thrive in many types of home if daily life includes activity, recovery, training and careful health monitoring. The size of the home matters less than how the dog copes with noise, stairs, visitors, dog encounters and time alone. Flat living can work, but recurring barking or distress needs training and management; the breed name does not promise a quiet dog.

Children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Its physical strength means that even friendly play can overwhelm a small child. Teach both child and dog clear boundaries and interrupt play before it becomes too intense.

The same caution applies to other animals. Some individuals live happily with dogs or cats, while others need more distance and carefully managed introductions. Base decisions on the individual dog’s experience and behaviour, keep the first meetings calm and separate the animals when nobody can supervise them. Socialisation improves the prospects but does not guarantee a particular outcome.

Time alone should be taught through very brief, calm separations and increased only when the dog is comfortable. A puppy cannot be expected to stay alone like a trained adult, and adults also vary considerably. Arrange help if everyday life requires longer absences than the dog can manage without distress.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can you provide varied activity without ignoring breathing and heat? Can you handle a powerful adult dog with calm, reward-based training? Can the breeder show documented results for the parents’ breathing, eyes, joints, DNA and behaviour? If any part is missing, it is sensible to wait for a better-documented mating.

Continental Bulldog

Continental Bulldog Club of Great Britain

Deutscher Continental Bulldog Club (Germany)

Societé Centrale Canine (France)

Denmark Continental Bulldog Club

The Continental Bulldog is a medium, athletic bulldog-type companion bred in Europe for better health and movement. It has a short, easy-care coat in many colors, a friendly, steady nature, needs regular walks and mental stimulation, and generally lives around 10–12 years.

Bennstaff är en uppfödare av raserna Staffordshire bullterrier och Continental Bulldog med bas i öjebyn i Sverige. Uppfödningen av staffordshire bullterrier går tillbaka till 2014. Sedan 2025 omfattar uppfödningen även continental bulldog.

Bennstaff

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Grimdon Runners är en uppfödare av rasen Whippet med bas i Altersbruk i Sverige. Uppfödningen av whippet inleddes 2023. Hundar från uppfödningen har deltagit i officiella tävlingssammanhang inom bland annat lure coursing, sprint och whippetlopp.

Grimdon Runners

Ultevis är en uppfödare av rasen Finsk spets med bas i Luleå i Sverige. Verksamhetens historik med finsk spets går tillbaka till 2016. Hundar från uppfödningen har deltagit i utställningar och jaktprov.

Ultevis

Oreo Teams

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

Flatham's är en uppfödare av rasen Flatcoated retriever med bas i Piteå i Sverige. Kennelnamnet förekom redan 1984 vid SSRK:s B-jaktprov för flatcoated retriever.

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