## Quick Facts

The French Bulldog is a small, sturdy and sociable companion dog from France. It should be lively and active, but its shortened skull and muzzle carry a risk of breathing problems and impaired temperature regulation. Anyone considering the breed should therefore assess function and documented health as carefully as temperament and appearance.

- **Breed group and purpose:** FCI Group 9, companion dog
- **Height at the withers:** males 27–35 cm, females 24–32 cm
- **Weight:** males 9–14 kg, females 8–13 kg
- **Coat:** short, smooth and without an undercoat
- **Colours in the breed standard:** fawn, brindle and pied, with the markings described in the standard
- **Ideal temperament:** sociable, lively, playful and affectionate
- **Important Swedish health assessment:** RFG-Scheme has been mandatory before breeding within SKK since 1 January 2025

The breed is not an obvious choice for anyone seeking a dog with low care needs. A French Bulldog should be able to move freely and breathe freely even while moving. Audible or laboured breathing is not a charming or normal breed trait.

## Appearance & Coat

The French Bulldog should be compact and muscular without becoming heavy, immobile or exaggerated. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, the head is broad and the upright “bat ears” are a defining feature. The whole dog should function in motion: open nostrils, adequate muzzle length, free movement and a body that does not prevent activity matter more than an extreme appearance.

The breed standard specifies different measurements for each sex. Males should stand 27–35 cm and weigh 9–14 kg, while females should stand 24–32 cm and weigh 8–13 kg. These figures are not a target weight for every individual. A suitable body condition depends on the dog’s build, muscle mass and body fat; excess weight puts additional strain on breathing, joints and the back.

The coat is short, smooth, soft and glossy, with no undercoat. Shedding can normally be managed with simple brushing as needed. At the same time, check the nails, paws, ears, teeth and skin. Facial folds should be kept clean and dry, but care should follow the skin’s actual condition. Redness, odour, discharge, itching or soreness call for advice, not simply more frequent cleaning.

The breed standard’s colours are fawn, brindle and pied. Blue and merle are not accepted colours. A puppy marketed as a “rare colour” should be assessed using the same important evidence as any other puppy: registration, respiratory function, the parent dogs and the breeder’s breeding programme.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the French Bulldog should be sociable, lively, playful and affectionate. Many individuals enjoy contact and like to take part in family life. The breed can learn quickly, but independence and stubbornness mean that clear routines and worthwhile rewards often work better than repetition or harsh corrections.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not every dog. Inheritance, early experience, health, pain, environment and training all affect an individual’s behaviour. A dog that struggles to breathe or is uncomfortable because of its skin, back or joints may also have less patience and recover less well. Temperament should therefore be considered alongside physical function.

BPH shows how a particular dog responded during a standardised behavioural assessment. It is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy’s future personality. The older Swedish BPH analysis covered only a small proportion of French Bulldogs born in Sweden. For a puppy buyer, it is therefore more useful to meet the dam and ask how the parents and close relatives cope with unfamiliar people, dog encounters, unexpected noises, handling, activity and rest.

The breed can suit a well-informed first-time owner who is prepared for reward-based training, daily activity and possible veterinary needs. It is less suitable when the choice is based mainly on small size, a particular look or the assumption that a short-muzzled dog automatically needs very little exercise.

## Training & Exercise

A French Bulldog needs daily walks, scent work, play and everyday training, but no single number of exercise minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, weather and, above all, the dog’s breathing and recovery determine what is appropriate. Cooling through panting is less efficient in short-muzzled dogs, so the same activity may be easy on a cool day and unsuitable in hot weather.

Plan several manageable activities rather than one long session that has to be completed. Let the dog sniff, walk calmly over varied ground and use its brain through searches and simple problem-solving. Build fitness gradually and watch the dog throughout the activity. Slow down or stop if breathing becomes clearly noisy or laboured, the nostrils narrow, the dog uses its abdomen forcefully to breathe, falls behind or does not recover normally. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes, unsteadiness, collapse or loss of consciousness requires immediate veterinary attention.

In hot weather, walks need to be moved to cooler times, the pace reduced and the dog given shade, water and a cool place to rest. Never leave the dog in a hot car or another enclosed space. A dog that repeatedly struggles during moderate activity or warm weather needs a veterinary assessment; merely avoiding all exercise is not a solution.

Prioritise attention, calm lead walking, recall, ending play, settling and accepting checks of the mouth, ears, facial folds, paws and nails. Teach the dog to be alone in very small steps once it already feels secure at home. Reward-based methods make each task clear and make necessary handling easier.

## Health

The most important health problem to understand in the French Bulldog is BOAS, brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome. It occurs when there is insufficient space for the soft tissues within the shortened nose and throat. The consequences can include noisy or laboured breathing, poor stamina, disturbed sleep and difficulty regulating body temperature.

RFG-Scheme is a veterinary assessment that evaluates respiratory function before and after three minutes of brisk exercise and grades the result from 0 to 3. Since 1 January 2025, French Bulldogs have been covered by a Level 2 health programme within SKK: dogs used for breeding must have a result before mating. An official result can be registered from 24 months of age and must be no more than two years old at the time of mating. Grade 0 is recommended; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be used for breeding under SKK rules. A dog that has undergone airway surgery cannot be assessed within the scheme.

An RFG result describes the dog’s condition at the time of the assessment and does not remove the need for your own observations. It is not a lifetime guarantee and does not cover every other health risk. Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents’ registered names, assessment dates and actual RFG grades. Ideally, see the parents both at rest and after normal movement: breathing should be free, recovery reasonable and the nostrils open. Do not accept “tested” or “vet checked” as a substitute for the registered result.

Other documented areas of risk include allergies and skin disease, problems affecting the back, skeleton and joints including patellar luxation, and injuries to the prominent eyes. This does not mean that every dog will be affected. Ask about recurring skin problems, lameness, back pain and eye injuries in the parents and close relatives. The Swedish breed club also recommends that puppy buyers ask about patellas, the heart and breathing in the adult dogs; these questions should be distinguished from the formal RFG requirement.

Contact a vet about recurring breathing noises, clear exercise or heat intolerance, sleep disturbed by breathing, smelly or painful skin, recurring lameness, back pain, or a red, watery or painful eye. Early assessment is better than waiting for a problem to become “typical of the breed”.

## History & Origins

The French Bulldog was established as a breed in Paris in the late nineteenth century. The first breed club was founded in Paris in 1880, the first dog was registered in 1885 and the first breed standard was adopted in 1898. The French kennel club recognised the breed in the same year.

The breed developed as a companion dog and acquired the compact body, broad head and upright bat ears that still characterise the standard. The French Bulldog was first shown in Sweden in 1913. Its historical type explains the modern appearance, but breeding today should not intensify these features to the point that breathing, eyes, back, tail or movement are adversely affected.

## Living with the Breed

A French Bulldog can live in a flat or a house because the size of the home alone does not determine whether daily life will work. What matters is that the dog receives daily activity, can rest undisturbed and has a secure, cool environment. In a flat, sounds from stairwells and outside windows should be addressed through early training, and access to a lift or the number of stairs may become important if the dog is in pain or has difficulty breathing.

The same safety rule applies with children as with any dog: an adult is responsible for their interaction. Children should not disturb the dog while it eats or rests, climb on it or persist when it tries to move away. Provide a protected resting place and teach both children and dog to interact calmly. Small size and a playful temperament do not automatically make an individual safe with children.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and their previous experiences. Make introductions gradually, with a way to separate the animals and without forcing close contact. Socialisation may improve the prospects but cannot guarantee that every combination will work. Pay particular attention to stress, resource guarding and whether another dog’s play becomes too physical for an individual with limited breathing capacity.

Time alone needs to be taught gradually, beginning with very short periods. Increase the duration only when the dog can remain calm, and consider using a camera to detect distress or barking that is not apparent when you return. The breed should not be chosen with a plan to leave the dog alone for most of the day on a regular basis.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to these questions:

- Can we put unrestricted breathing and sound physical function ahead of an extreme appearance or an unusual colour?
- Can we verify the parents’ identities, RFG grades and assessment dates rather than relying on verbal assurances?
- Can we adapt activity to heat and the dog’s condition without making it inactive?
- Do we have the time and financial capacity to manage the veterinary needs that may accompany the breed’s body shape?

If the answers are yes and the breeder can show verifiable results, the French Bulldog can be a lively and close companion. The most important choice is not the most extreme head or rarest colour, but a dog that can breathe, move, recover and enjoy an active everyday life.

French Bulldog

The French Bulldog Club of England

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The French Bulldog is a small, muscular companion dog with a short coat and bat-like ears. Affectionate, people oriented, and playful yet calm indoors, it suits apartment life. It needs moderate, carefully managed exercise, regular skin, ear, and nail care, and attention to breathing and weight.

Dag Espen Thygesen driver oppdrett av rasen Fransk bulldog og holder til i Askim i Norge.

Dag Espen Thygesen

Lisbeth Amundsen driver oppdrett av rasen Fransk bulldog og holder til i Disenå i Norge.

Lisbeth Amundsen

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Kokopelli driver oppdrett av rasen Dachshund og holder til i Båstad i Norge. I avlsarbeidet benyttes både øyelysing og røntgenundersøkelse av rygg.

Kokopelli

Finnish Hound

Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

Finnish Hound Association

Finnish Kennel Club (Kennelliitto)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Finnish Hound (Finsk stövare): medium‑large, athletic Scandinavian scenthound with an easy‑care tricolour coat. Calm and affectionate indoors when well exercised; energetic, vocal, and independent on the trail. Bred for hare and fox, needs substantial outdoor activity and consistent training.

Vegard Grav driver oppdrett av rasen Finsk støver og holder til i Spydeberg i Norge.

Vegard Grav

Truls Fredriksen driver oppdrett av rasen Finsk støver og holder til i Mysen i Norge.

Truls Fredriksen

## Quick Facts

- The Shih Tzu is a small, purebred companion dog with roots in Tibet and development in China; Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard.
- The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. The FCI recognises one Shih Tzu, not separate “mini”, “imperial” or “teacup” varieties.
- Typical traits include a friendly yet independent nature, an alert expression and a sturdy body that is slightly longer than it is tall.
- The long coat requires substantial care. A shorter pet trim reduces the workload but does not remove the need for brushing, bathing and checking the eyes, ears, paws and skin.
- Free, quiet breathing, non-prominent eyes and a functional mouth matter more than an extremely short muzzle or an exaggerated coat.
- A Shih Tzu can thrive in a flat, but still needs daily movement, mental stimulation and social contact.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shih Tzu is small but sturdily built, not a delicate miniature dog. The body length from the withers to the root of the tail should exceed the height at the withers. The chest is broad and deep, and the high-set tail is carried in a curve over the back. The head is broad and round. The muzzle is short and wide, but the nostrils should be well open and the eyes large without being prominent.

The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. Breed type and sound function should take priority over trying to produce the smallest possible dog. Terms such as “imperial” and “teacup” therefore do not describe recognised size varieties of the breed.

The coat consists of long, dense outer hair and a moderate undercoat that should not be woolly. It may be straight or slightly wavy, and all colours are permitted. The hair on the head creates the characteristic chrysanthemum-like expression, but it must not obstruct the dog’s vision. The coat must never be so long or heavy that it restricts movement.

A Shih Tzu in a full-length coat needs a consistent routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes regular baths, thorough drying and combing to prevent mats. Hair around the face needs to be kept clear of the eyes, and the coat should be worked through down to the skin so that small tangles do not become large and painful.

A clipped Shih Tzu is easier to care for, but not maintenance-free. The coat continues to grow and needs brushing, washing and clipping at an interval that suits the individual coat and daily life. The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic: how a person reacts to a dog cannot be determined by the coat’s appearance or the amount of visible hair in the home.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shih Tzu should be friendly, lively, alert and independent. This companion dog often enjoys taking part in family life, but its independence may show when the dog sees no point in a task. That gives the breed character and humour, but does not make every individual automatically cooperative in every situation.

Temperament varies between individuals and is shaped by breeding, early experiences and everyday training. The breed’s friendliness is therefore no guarantee that every Shih Tzu will love all children, dogs or cats. Life with children works best when they can handle the dog calmly, leave it undisturbed while resting and avoid carrying it without help. Young children and the dog should always have an adult close by.

Meetings with other dogs and cats should be built up gradually. A calm introduction and the option to move away matter more than the assumption that the breed always gets along with everyone. Some individuals are open from the start; others need more time.

A Shih Tzu may bark at sounds and visitors, but the amount of vocalisation varies and can be influenced by daily routines. Reward calm behaviour, give the dog an alternative to rushing to the door and avoid accidentally turning every alert bark into a major event.

## Training & Exercise

The Shih Tzu needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, even though the breed is not built for prolonged, strenuous work. Several walks with time to sniff, short play sessions and small training tasks usually provide a better day than one monotonous route. Distance and intensity must be adjusted to the dog’s age, fitness, the weather and its ability to breathe.

Short, clear training sessions suit the breed’s combination of intelligence and independence. Reward the behaviour you want and work on one thing at a time: engagement, recall, handling, lead walking and settling. House training is easier with frequent chances to go outside, predictable routines and an immediate reward outdoors; there is no evidence that every Shih Tzu is unusually easy or difficult to house-train.

Heat and breathing should determine the level of activity. A Shih Tzu that breathes with effort or noise, quickly loses pace or struggles to recover should not be pushed further. Exercise during cooler parts of the day in warm weather, and ask a veterinarian to assess recurring breathing noise or reduced stamina. Snoring and rattling breathing should not be dismissed as normal simply because the breed is short-muzzled.

Time alone should be taught gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase the duration only while the dog remains calm, and adjust the plan if it shows anxiety or discomfort. In Sweden, dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs generally need more frequent opportunities.

## Health

The main health checks for a Shih Tzu concern breathing, eyes, and the mouth and teeth. The breed can live a long life, and a large British veterinary-record study found an overall disorder pattern closer to dogs in general than to several other flat-faced breeds. That does not mean the risks associated with a shortened skull can be ignored.

The Shih Tzu can be affected by brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, BOAS. In a 2026 British study of 42 Shih Tzus, the breed was assessed as having a moderate risk of BOAS, and just under half of the dogs received grade 0. The sample was small and cannot describe the health of an individual dog, but it shows why breathing must be assessed in practice. Open nostrils, quiet breathing at rest and in motion, normal recovery and a healthy body condition are important signs. The study also found an association between body condition and BOAS grade in Shih Tzus.

The Respiratory Function Grading Scheme, or RFG Scheme, is a standardised functional assessment of breathing. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to introduce central recording of RFG results for Shih Tzus, but assessments can start only when trained veterinarians and the technical procedures are in place. Ask the breeder which breathing assessments have actually been completed and check the current status with the Swedish Kennel Club.

The eyes should be large but not prominent. The Swedish Kennel Club’s breed-specific instructions identify excessively prominent eyes as a risk area, while British health guidance recommends eye screening before breeding. Seek veterinary care promptly if the dog suddenly squints, rubs an eye, or develops marked redness, cloudiness or heavy discharge; corneal injuries are painful and need examination.

The mouth is another priority because the Swedish instructions warn about a narrow lower jaw and poor dental status. In a British study of 11,082 Shih Tzus, disease affecting the gums and supporting structures of the teeth was the most frequently recorded diagnosis. The same study also highlighted anal sac, ear and eye disorders. Daily brushing with dog toothpaste is the most effective home care against plaque; veterinary checks are still needed when tartar, bad breath, bleeding gums or difficulty chewing appear.

The study reported an average age at death of 12.7 years in the British population examined. This is a population measure, not a promise for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Shih Tzu has its roots in Tibet but was developed as a breed in China, where dogs of this type lived in the imperial palaces. The FCI lists Tibet (China) as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country responsible for the breed standard. The breed belongs to the companion-dog group and has never been subject to a working trial requirement.

The first documented import to Great Britain took place in 1931. Shih Tzus were initially shown alongside Lhasa Apsos, but differences in the head and overall type led to the Shih Tzu being recognised as a separate breed in 1934. It was registered separately by the British kennel club in 1940. The breed reached Scandinavia during the 1930s.

The verified history is clear without romantic embellishment: Tibetan roots, development in China and later standardisation in Great Britain. Today’s friendly but independent companion dog reflects the role the breed has long held close to people.

## Living with the Breed

The Shih Tzu is best suited to someone who wants a small, social companion and accepts that the coat, eyes, teeth and breathing require ongoing attention. The breed can suit both flats and houses; what matters is not the size of the home but whether the dog receives movement, scent work, rest, company and regular opportunities to go outside.

Daily life is easiest when grooming, toothbrushing and handling are introduced early in small steps. A dog kept in a short trim still needs to become comfortable with a brush, comb, bath, hair dryer, paw checks and touch around the face. Plan for recurring clipping at home or by a professional groomer as well.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and preferably more adult relatives in normal movement, not only while they are sitting still. Listen to their breathing before and after a short walk, look for open nostrils and eyes that are not prominent, and ask how the breeder monitors the eyes, mouth and teeth, and respiratory function. Ask to see the available examination results and compare them with current information from the Swedish Kennel Club.

The breed is less suitable if the dog will regularly be left alone for long days, if daily coat care is unrealistic or if you want a dog for strenuous exercise in warm weather. For a home that appreciates a close companion who is not always eager to comply, the Shih Tzu can be a very enjoyable choice, provided sound function takes priority over extreme appearance.

Shih Tzu

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy companion dog from Tibetan and Chinese palaces, 4.5–8 kg with a long, flowing coat and chrysanthemum-like face. Affectionate, cheerful, and confident, it suits many homes. Needs moderate exercise, intensive grooming, and patient, reward-based training.

Hege Mari Finnanger driver oppdrett av rasen Shih tzu og holder til i Oppaker i Norge.

Hege Mari Finnanger

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Laila Johansen driver oppdrett av rasen Mellompuddel og holder til i Ås i Norge. Oppdrettet av mellompuddel har pågått siden 2016.

Laila Johansen

## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

Swedish Kennel Club

Norwegian Kennel Club

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Susanne Strøm driver oppdrett av rasen Whippet og holder til i Gardermoen i Norge. Whippet har vært en del av oppdrettet siden omkring 2004. Hunder fra oppdrettet har vært representert på utstilling og i lure coursing.

Susanne Strøm

Jorunn Synnøve Jenssen driver oppdrett av rasen Whippet og holder til i Ski i Norge. Oppdrettet har vært drevet under kennelnavnet Utzon siden minst 2014. Oppdrettet har vært aktivt på utstillinger i Norge og Danmark.

Jorunn Synnøve Jenssen

## Quick Facts

- The Newfoundland is a Canadian giant breed developed for heavy draught work and work in water. Today, it is mainly kept as a companion and water dog.
- The breed ideal is gentle, friendly and peaceful. This describes the aim of responsible breeding, not the automatic behaviour of every dog.
- An adult male averages about 71 centimetres in height and 68 kilograms in weight. The corresponding averages for females are about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms.
- The medium-length double coat is dense and water-resistant. The recognised colours are black, brown, and white and black.
- Its size makes early lead training, calm greetings and confident handling essential.
- Sweden has an official water trial for the breed, but interest in water and the ability to swim safely vary between individuals and require training.
- The breed is best suited to someone with enough space, time for coat care and a daily routine that works with a very large dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Newfoundland should be massive, powerful and well muscled without appearing heavy or clumsy. The body is slightly longer than it is tall, and movement should convey effortless power. The breed standard stresses that maximum size must never take priority over symmetry, sound construction and correct movement.

Males average about 71 centimetres at the withers and 68 kilograms; females average about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms. A suitable weight must still be judged from the individual dog's build, body condition and muscle mass.

The head is broad and the expression should convey gentleness. The large feet have webbing between the toes, and the powerful tail acts as a rudder when the dog swims.

The coat consists of medium-length, straight or slightly wavy outer hair and a soft, dense undercoat. The undercoat is usually thicker in winter but remains on parts of the body throughout the year. The colours are black, brown, and white and black. White and black is a colour within the Newfoundland breed; Landseer is also the name of a separate FCI-recognised breed and should not be confused with the colour description.

Base grooming frequency on the condition of the coat rather than a fixed weekly timetable. Work right down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, under the neck and around the hindquarters. If a comb catches, a tangle remains even when the surface looks smooth. More frequent grooming is needed during heavy shedding.

After bathing or swimming, rinse the coat when necessary and dry it thoroughly down to the skin. Check the ears, feet, skin and areas prone to matting at the same time. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it; there is no single correct interval. The breed standard does not encourage clipping that alters the natural coat.

Expect hair, water and often drool in the home. The Newfoundland is not allergy-free. The main dog allergens are found particularly in skin and saliva, and their levels vary between individual dogs regardless of breed or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Newfoundland is gentle, friendly and peaceful, but the phrase “gentle giant” describes an ideal rather than guaranteeing safety. Ask to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look for dogs that greet people calmly, recover when something unexpected happens and can be handled without marked stress.

The breed usually likes to remain close to its family and is often willing to cooperate when the task is clear and training is kind. An adolescent can nevertheless be strong, clumsy and slow to mature, so household manners need to begin early.

Children and Newfoundlands can live very well together, but the breed's reputation as a “nanny dog” must not be taken literally. A responsible adult should always supervise dogs and young children. Children need to leave the dog alone while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a private place where nobody follows it. An adult must also be able to control the dog on walks and stop over-excited play; a friendly dog weighing more than 50 kilograms can knock a child over without intending harm.

The same care applies to other dogs and cats. Keep initial meetings calm, give each animal its own resources and ensure that a smaller animal can move away. An individual dog's experience and behaviour matter more than claims that the breed automatically likes every animal.

A Newfoundland is not automatically a guard dog either. Its size may deter people, but sharpness and suspicion are not part of the breed ideal.

## Training & Exercise

Training should make the Newfoundland easy to guide before it becomes heavy enough to win a physical contest. Prioritise walking on a loose lead, waiting at doors, recall, calm greetings and allowing the feet, ears, mouth and coat to be examined. Practise car travel and veterinary visits too. Reward the behaviour you want and introduce distractions gradually.

There is no reliable number of minutes that suits every dog. An adult Newfoundland needs daily movement and mental activity adapted to its age, body condition, fitness, health and the temperature. Unhurried walks, scent work, everyday obedience, draught work and water work may all suit the breed. Lameness, clear stiffness or a deterioration after activity are reasons to reduce the load and seek veterinary advice when needed.

For a puppy, the aim is varied, self-directed movement and good body awareness rather than fitness training. Let the puppy explore safe surfaces, practise simple balance exercises close to the ground and take short walks at its own pace. Avoid repeated high jumps, long enforced distances and running beside a bicycle. Formulae that allow a fixed number of minutes per month of age do not account for the individual, terrain or intensity.

Water work is a documented part of the breed's function. Sweden's official water trial includes obedience on land, retrieving from water and towing a person or boat. These skills are trained; a dog is not a trained rescue dog simply because of its breed. Begin in calm, shallow water, never force a worried dog in, and check the temperature, current, bottom and exit points. The handler also needs to be able to swim in exercises where dog and handler work together in the water.

The heavy body and dense coat limit activity in hot weather. Choose cooler times and stop if the dog is recovering poorly. Swimming can provide low-impact exercise for a healthy dog, but cold water, exhaustion and a difficult exit are genuine hazards.

## Health

Hips, elbows, heart and urinary tract are important areas to check when choosing a Newfoundland. Health data reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy. Ask for both parents' registered names and check the results yourself rather than accepting that “tests have been done”.

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, occur in the breed. Under the Swedish Kennel Club registration rules effective from 1 January 2026, both parents must have an official HD result and an official ED result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. A known result means that it has been recorded; it does not mean that every result is normal. Dogs with ED grade 2 or 3 must not be bred from, nor may dogs with symptoms, a clinical ED diagnosis or surgery for ED, regardless of their recorded grade.

The breed's RAS breeding strategy from 2016 recommends stricter selection than the basic requirement for a recorded result: primarily HD A or B and ED 0, with specified exceptions. This dated breeding recommendation is distinct from today's binding registration requirements. Check the actual results and ask how the breeder justifies the pairing. The Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata service also shows results for close relatives.

The Swedish Newfoundland Club also highlights subaortic stenosis, SAS, a narrowing in the heart's outflow tract towards the aorta. A murmur can prompt investigation, but mild cases can be difficult to detect with a stethoscope alone; ultrasound gives a more reliable assessment. Ask how, when and by whom the heart was examined. An SAS examination is not a binding Swedish Kennel Club requirement in the same way as the breed's HD and ED results.

The Newfoundland also has a breed-specific, autosomal recessive form of cystinuria. It can cause raised levels of cystine in the urine and sometimes cystine stones, although not every genetically affected dog develops stones. A DNA test can distinguish clear, carrier and affected dogs. Ask to see the result and understand how the pairing avoids affected puppies. A dog that repeatedly tries to urinate but passes little or no urine needs emergency veterinary care; males have a higher risk of urethral obstruction.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus, GDV, is an emergency that mainly affects large and giant dogs. Its cause is probably multifactorial, so simple feeding or exercise rules cannot promise protection. Unproductive retching, heavy salivation, restlessness and a swelling abdomen are warning signs. Weakness, collapse or breathing difficulty make the situation still more urgent. Seek veterinary care immediately if you suspect GDV, and discuss the individual risk and preventive gastropexy before an emergency occurs.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition and seek advice for lameness, recurring stiffness, reduced stamina, fainting or pain. Check the skin and coat after they get wet. Do not avoid a veterinary visit because a problem is said to be “common in the breed”.

## History & Origins

The Newfoundland originated in Canada and is associated with work around the coast of Newfoundland. The official breed standard describes a dog used for heavy draught work and work in water. It states that the breed's type and working qualities were established by about 1610. The account of native dogs being crossed with large black dogs brought by Vikings is presented as a tradition, not proven ancestry.

The dogs worked alongside people where strength, swimming ability and stamina had practical value. The massive body, water-resistant coat, webbed feet and rudder-like tail suit that function. The breed's history does not, however, mean that every modern Newfoundland can rescue people without training.

Today, the Newfoundland is chiefly a companion. Water work continues through organised training and official trials, while some partnerships also take part in draught work.

## Living with the Breed

A Newfoundland requires more logistical planning than a medium-sized dog. Can it lie down without blocking walkways, get into the car, rest somewhere cool and be managed by an adult if it becomes ill or frightened? Slippery floors often need rugs, while numerous stairs can be difficult for a puppy, an injured dog or an older dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically unsuitable. Dogs exercise and train outdoors, but a giant dog can make a small home impractical. A lift, wide routes through the building, nearby toileting areas, how much sound carries to neighbours and the ability to keep the home cool matter more than the address. A house and garden do not replace walks, training or company.

The breed often wants to stay close to people, but time alone must be judged individually. An adult that has been trained gradually can usually remain alone for a few hours; a young puppy cannot. Increase the duration only when the dog can settle, and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is longer than the individual can manage. Persistent barking, pacing, damage or severe distress show that the arrangement needs to change.

Plan for regular grooming, cleaning, a large space in the car and higher food, insurance and veterinary costs. A harness or collar, travel restraint and bed must all work for the individual dog's size.

A Newfoundland may suit a first-time owner who seeks help early and can genuinely manage the size, but it is not an easy choice simply because its temperament is described as gentle. A suitable owner enjoys close cooperation, accepts hair and drool, trains consistently without harshness and can adjust activity for heat and health. If those conditions sound realistic, the breed can be a calm and engaged member of the family. If space, physical control or grooming already seem doubtful, a smaller dog is the wiser choice.

Newfoundland

The Newfoundland is a giant, water‑loving working dog with a dense, heavy‑shedding coat and notable drooling. Calm, loyal, and gentle with children, it needs close family contact, kind training, moderate exercise, careful grooming, space, and proactive health care for joints, heart, and bloat.

Sølvi Jane Schjelderup driver oppdrett av rasen Newfoundlandshund og holder til i Spydeberg i Norge.

Sølvi Jane Schjelderup

## Quick Facts

- The Bichon Frise is a small Franco-Belgian companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- The breed standard gives a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to size. Males may be 1 centimetre taller and females 2 centimetres shorter if they remain well balanced.
- An adult should be white, with a profuse coat of loose spiral curls and a soft, dense undercoat.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful, sociable and adaptable dog that likes to stay close to its people. Temperament still varies between individuals.
- Coat care takes both time and skill. Anyone who does not want to manage bathing, blow-drying, combing and trimming at home will need to arrange regular grooming appointments.
- The Bichon Frise is not an allergy-free dog. The amount of allergen produced varies between individuals, even within the same litter.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bichon Frise is small but should not look delicate. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, while the white, curly coat creates the breed's rounded outline. The dark eyes and black nose form three distinct dark points in the face. The breed standard specifies a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to the dog's size. Males may be up to 30 centimetres and females as short as 23 centimetres, provided that their proportions remain balanced.

The coat has a curly outer layer and a soft, dense undercoat. An adult Bichon Frise should be pure white. Before twelve months of age, a puppy may have a slight beige or champagne tinge, but the standard says this must cover no more than one tenth of the dog. A pale tint on a young puppy is therefore not automatically an incorrect colour.

Coat care is one of the most important points to consider before choosing the breed. The curls need to be brushed and combed right down to the skin; if the comb catches, there is a tangle that needs to be eased out carefully. Brushing only the surface can leave a dense layer of matting close to the skin. During the puppy's coat change, often from about five to seven months but sometimes later, a thorough check may be needed every day.

The breed club uses bathing about every two weeks and trimming about every six weeks as practical guides. The interval depends on coat quality, length, weather and how thoroughly the coat is kept combed between sessions. Dry the coat completely after a bath without directing air that is too hot at the skin. Start early with short, positive sessions so the puppy becomes comfortable on a grooming table and with a brush, comb, paw handling and dryer. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to demonstrate the technique before tangles become a problem.

The breed is often suggested to people with allergies because it leaves relatively little visible hair around the home. That does not make the dog hypoallergenic. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and the amount differs from one dog to another. Anyone with an allergy should therefore assess their own circumstances and meet the particular dog several times; the breed name can never provide a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bichon Frise is first and foremost a companion dog: people-oriented, lively and often easy to include in everyday life. The breed standard describes an adaptable dog that is sociable with people and other dogs, forms a close bond with its owners and should be neither nervous nor prone to frequent barking. This is a breeding ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's health survey presents a more nuanced picture. Most owners described their dogs as secure, cheerful and positive, but some dogs were reserved with strangers or cautious when meeting other dogs. Calm, early exposure to different environments therefore matters even in a breed known for being sociable. Let the puppy discover new people, surfaces, sounds and dogs at a pace that allows it to remain curious and engage willingly.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and appreciates a close relationship with their dog. Its small size does not make ownership effortless. Coat care is substantial, a puppy needs frequent opportunities to toilet, and an adult needs daily activity, company and gradual training to spend time alone.

A Bichon Frise does not have to be noisy. An individual may nevertheless start reacting to sounds in a communal hallway, people passing a window or hectic situations. Reward calm behaviour, provide a place away from windows and the front door if necessary, and practise around everyday sounds before the response becomes a habit.

## Training & Exercise

The Bichon Frise needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day, but there is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the day's other activities all matter. For a healthy adult, walks that allow time for sniffing can be combined with play and short training sessions. Puppies need more frequent but shorter outings, while an older dog may need a gentler pace and more breaks.

Although bred for companionship, the Bichon Frise can do far more than sit on a lap. Swedish owners take part in activities including nosework, rally obedience, obedience and agility. Competition is not the point; the aim is to give the dog tasks it understands, such as finding a hidden toy, following a short scent trail, learning a trick or practising attention on a walk. A suitable daily routine helps the dog stay in good condition, remain curious outdoors and settle at home.

Training works best when it is reward-based, introduced step by step and adapted to the individual. Short sessions make concentration easier. Give particular attention to recall, walking on a lead, waiting calmly and standing still for coat care. Handling practice is an essential everyday skill for a Bichon Frise, not something to postpone until its first trim.

There is no good evidence that the Bichon Frise is unusually difficult to housetrain as a breed. Puppies learn at different rates. Take the puppy outside after sleep, meals and play, reward toileting outdoors and do not punish accidents. If a previously housetrained dog suddenly starts urinating indoors, investigate the cause rather than dismissing the behaviour as stubbornness.

## Health

The breed club's latest Swedish review describes the breed's general health as good to very good, but relatively few dogs were examined in some years and an owner survey cannot replace veterinary diagnoses. Check the parents' documented results rather than relying on a general assurance that the breed is usually healthy.

Patellar status, which records the position of the kneecap, is an important Swedish checkpoint. The Swedish Kennel Club will not register the litter if the parents lack an official patellar result. The examination must have been carried out when each parent was at least one year old, and the result must be available before mating. As its main recommendation, the breed club advises grade 0, with no abnormality, in both parents. Ask the breeder to show the results in the Swedish Kennel Club databases and ask about knee problems in close relatives.

Eye health also needs attention, but the rules are different. The Swedish Kennel Club's former eye examination requirement has been removed. The breed club still recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination certificate no more than twelve months old at the time of mating and advises how certain findings may be combined. Ask about both a current eye examination and eye diagnoses in the family without describing the examination as a current registration requirement.

Watery eyes were reported in the Swedish health survey, but it did not establish the causes. Tear staining shows quickly on a white coat, yet the condition of the eye matters more than the colour of the hair. New or increased tearing, squinting, pain, swelling or a change in vision should be examined by a vet. The breed's health strategy also notes recurrent itching and allergy problems, but the evidence is not strong enough to give reliable frequency figures.

Dental care is an important routine for every dog. Daily tooth brushing is the best preventive measure against periodontal disease and makes it easier to notice redness, bad breath or damaged teeth early. Introduce the puppy gradually to having its lips lifted and teeth touched, using the same calm approach as for coat care.

## History & Origins

The documented modern history of the Bichon Frise is Franco-Belgian. The FCI describes small dogs of this type being brought from Italy to France during the Renaissance. The name developed from barbichon to bichon, and paintings from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries show similar dogs with royalty and other prominent people.

The breed returned to fashion during the reign of Napoleon III, when it was known as the Ténériffe. The population came close to disappearing after the two world wars, but French and Belgian breeders rebuilt it. The current French name, bichon à poil frisé, was established in 1978 when the breed was recognised as Franco-Belgian. It arrived in Sweden in 1976, and the first Swedish litters were born the following year.

There are also colourful stories about sailors, rat-catching and travelling dogs, but these are less well documented. The best-supported account is primarily the history of a European companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

A Bichon Frise can live successfully in either a flat or a house because the size of the home matters less than the daily routine. The dog needs regular outings, activity every day and training to remain calm around sounds outside the front door. Swedish welfare guidance advises that adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent opportunities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Start once the dog feels secure at home, step away for a very short time and increase the duration only while the dog remains calm. One adult may manage a few hours, while another needs more company or a dog sitter. Howling, destructive behaviour, restlessness or refusing food means the training should be scaled back and may need to be discussed with a qualified trainer or vet.

The same safety rules that apply to other dogs are needed around children. Young children and dogs should have an adult present, and the dog needs its own resting place where it will be left alone. The Bichon's small body requires gentle handling; children should not carry the dog or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. If there is already a dog or cat in the home, introductions should be calm and allow plenty of distance. The breed's sociable ideal does not remove the need for a careful introduction.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants a close companion and accepts that coat care is a weekly commitment. Before buying a puppy, you should be able to see the parents' patellar and eye results, ask how they cope with time alone, sounds, people and dogs, and receive a practical coat-care demonstration. This bases the decision on the dog and the life you will actually share, rather than on promises of an undemanding small pet.

Bichon Frise

Deutscher Bichon Frisé Club e.V.

Small, sturdy companion dog (23–30 cm, 5–8 kg) with a cottony white, low‑shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, people‑oriented, and adaptable to city or house living, it enjoys play and cuddles, moderate daily exercise, and close inclusion in family life.

Ann-Kristin Stenersen driver oppdrett av rasen Bichon frisé og holder til i Stabekk i Norge. Oppdrettet kan spores tilbake til minst 2012.

Ann-Kristin Stenersen

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Helene Foss

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Shepherd Groenendael is the long-haired black variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The FCI treats the Groenendael, Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois as four varieties of one breed.
- The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females. The standard allows two centimetres below and four centimetres above the ideal. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females.
- The Groenendael is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog with rapid reactions. It needs both purposeful activity and the ability to settle.
- The breed ideal is watchful, active, confident and willing to work, but also calm and fearless without aggression. Heredity, early experience and training greatly influence the individual dog.
- The long double coat is uniformly black. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes.
- The breed suits someone who wants to train regularly, can read a fast-reacting dog and will choose a breeder for temperament and health, not merely for the black coat.

## Appearance & Coat

The Groenendael should combine elegance and power without heaviness. The body is approximately as long as the height at the withers, the chest reaches the elbows and the head is carried high. The ears are small, triangular and erect. Movement should be free, easy and lively, and the dog should be able to change direction quickly without losing balance.

All four Belgian Shepherd varieties share the same fundamental construction. They are distinguished mainly by coat length, texture and colour. Groenendaels and Tervuerens are long-haired, while the Groenendael must be uniformly black. A small white patch on the forechest and a little white on the toes are tolerated.

The coat has a dense, woolly undercoat and abundant protective outer hair. Hair is shorter on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs. Longer hair forms a ruff and apron around the neck and chest, fringes on the forelegs, breeches on the thighs and a plume on the tail.

Let the comb and skin determine the grooming schedule. Check the ruff, behind the ears, armpits, breeches and tail with your fingers and a comb. If the comb catches or the undercoat lies densely against the skin, the coat needs a more thorough brushing. This may be frequent during shedding and much less often between shedding periods. Bathe the dog when dirty and dry the coat right down to the skin. Check the claws, ears, skin and teeth at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Groenendael is a quick, observant dog that may notice movement, sounds and changes before its owner does. The FCI describes the Belgian Shepherd as watchful, active and full of energy, always ready to act. The same standard also calls for confidence, calmness and fearlessness without aggression. High activity and stability are not opposites.

How open the dog is with people varies. It need not want to greet everyone, but it should be able to remain among people without becoming fearful or threatening. Practise passing people, receiving visitors and accepting handling without turning every person into a new task. Provide distance when needed and reward calm choices.

Older Swedish MH behavioural-assessment results show why a breed average is not enough. Results differed between the varieties, and handling and responses to gunshots have been among the areas the breed club wanted to improve in Groenendaels. The data concern older generations and cannot predict a puppy today.

Ask to see the parents' complete MH diagrams rather than accepting that they have “known mental status”. Ask about full siblings and earlier offspring as well: how do they recover after surprises, cope with body handling and respond to noise, unfamiliar people and dogs? A title or completed test does not replace this everyday evidence.

## Training & Exercise

The Groenendael needs daily physical activity, scent work, learning and recovery, but no fixed number of hours suits every dog. An adult may enjoy walks over varied ground, tracking, searching, obedience, herding or other tasks that engage both body and mind. Choose activities according to the individual's motivation, health and ability to settle afterwards.

Early training should prioritise the skills that make a fast, reactive dog safe in everyday life:

- walking on a loose lead and turning calmly away from distractions
- attention and recall in safe environments
- waiting at doors, by the car and beside the training area
- seeing people, dogs and movement without immediately acting
- calm, voluntary handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- a learned resting place and the ability to sleep after activity

Reward-based training provides clear information without needless conflict. Groenendaels often learn quickly, and unwanted behaviour can be learned just as fast. Reward what you want before the dog has time to lunge, bark or become over-aroused. Food, play, sniffing, greater distance and access to an activity can all be effective rewards.

More training is not always the answer to high activity. A dog that becomes increasingly frantic or vocal, or cannot sleep after a session, may need simpler tasks, longer breaks and fewer stimuli. Puppies and adolescents should move in varied ways without long runs, heavy physical strain or repeated jumping. Lameness, stiffness or reluctance to move should be assessed by a vet.

## Health

Several mandatory Swedish breeding conditions apply to Belgian Shepherds. Both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result. Dogs graded C, D or E should not be used for breeding in this breed; offspring from such a dog receive a permanent breeding restriction. Check that both parents are graded A or B rather than merely being told that they were X-rayed.

Both parents must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. This does not automatically mean grade 0. The Swedish Kennel Club generally recommends grade 0; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be bred from, while grade 1 should be used only sparingly and with a grade-0 dog. Ask to see the exact hip and elbow grades and their dates.

Breeding dogs resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have “known mental status”. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, this means a complete MH assessment with entries in all 33 positions. An interrupted MH does not count, but the dog still gains known status if the handler declines the gunshot element. Known mental status therefore confirms completion, not that the dog “passed” every situation.

Epilepsy is a documented concern, particularly in the long-haired Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. An older Danish study and a Swedish survey cannot be used as current Swedish prevalence figures, but they show why family history matters. There is no simple DNA result that clears an entire family. Ask about seizures or seizure-like episodes in the parents, full and half siblings, earlier offspring and older relatives, including cases that appeared only after a dog had already been bred from.

Gastric cancer is another issue to investigate. A Dutch study published in 2024 found both increased occurrence and a clear hereditary component in Groenendaels and Tervuerens within the population studied. Its results are not Swedish prevalence figures, and there is not yet a genetic test that can clear an individual dog. Ask the breeder about gastric cancer in older close relatives. Recurrent vomiting, reduced appetite, weight loss or persistent digestive problems should be assessed by a vet.

An eye examination is not a mandatory breed-specific condition in Sweden's 2026 registration rules, but eye disease forms part of the breed's health work. Ask about current eye results and diagnoses among relatives. Obtain the actual documents: “all tests completed” says nothing about the results.

## History & Origins

The Belgian Shepherd developed from the varied types of sheepdog found in Belgium in the late nineteenth century. The Club du Chien de Berger Belge was founded in Brussels on 29 September 1891. On 15 November that year, Professor A. Reul assembled 117 dogs in Cureghem to record the existing type and select suitable breeding animals.

The first detailed breed standard was written on 3 April 1892 and described one breed with three coat varieties. The first Belgian Shepherds entered the Belgian stud book in 1901. According to the FCI, breed type and temperament were largely established by about 1910.

The rules for colours and coats continued to change. After the population fell sharply during the Second World War, the breed was rebuilt, and the four present varieties were fixed in 1974: Groenendael, Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois. The Groenendael was the first Belgian Shepherd variety to reach Sweden, arriving in the early 1950s.

## Living with the Breed

The Groenendael can live successfully in many types of home, but is poorly suited to a routine of brief toilet walks and few shared activities. Its owner needs to help it switch between work and rest. This matters more than whether the home is a house or a flat.

Active adult supervision is essential around children. A fast dog can knock a child over or become over-aroused by running and shouting without being aggressive. Children must never disturb the dog while it eats, sleeps or moves away. Judge adult relatives by their actual behaviour around children rather than relying on the label “family dog”.

Living with another dog, a cat or a smaller animal must be assessed individually. Early familiarity may help, but it does not replace gates, separate resting places and controlled introductions. A dog that lives well with the household cat may still react to a running cat outdoors.

Flat living can work if there are good opportunities for activity, crowded encounters can be managed and the dog learns to rest despite outside noise. Introduce time alone gradually from brief periods. Increase it only when the dog can eat, rest and return to a calm state; distress, pacing or persistent noise means the step was too large.

A well-prepared first-time owner may succeed with support from the breeder and a knowledgeable trainer, but the breed is a poor choice for someone seeking a dog that easily ignores its surroundings. Meet the dam and preferably several adult relatives, observe them in everyday life and training, and check the hip, elbow and MH results yourself. Ask about epilepsy, gastric cancer, eyes and temperament in the family. Choose a puppy for how the adult dogs fit your life, not merely for the black coat.

Belgian Shepherd Groenendael

The Belgian Shepherd Dog Association of Great Britain

Svenska Brukshundklubben (Swedish Working Dog Club)

Société Royale Saint-Hubert (Royal Saint Hubert Society of Belgium)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (German Shepherd Association)

Medium‑large, square‑built Belgian herding dog with a long, dense, solid black coat. Intelligent, energetic, and highly trainable, it excels in sports and working roles. Deeply loyal, watchful, and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental work, and regular grooming.

Lars Asper driver oppdrett av rasen Belgisk fårehund, groenendael og holder til i Kløfta i Norge.

Lars Asper

Australian Terrier

Australian Terrier Club of Great Britain

The Australian Terrier is a small, sturdy working terrier with a harsh, weatherproof coat and soft topknot. Bred in Australia as a vermin controller and companion, it is confident, lively, people‑oriented, a devoted watchdog, needing moderate exercise and regular, simple grooming.

Tove Ring driver oppdrett av rasen Australsk terrier og holder til i Årnes i Norge.

Tove Ring

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen driver oppdrett av rasen Labrador retriever og holder til i Hobøl i Norge.

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Ellen Moi Jahr driver oppdrett av rasen Pomeranian og holder til i Lillestrøm i Norge.

Ellen Moi Jahr

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Line Marie Kragseth Sletner er oppdretter av shetland sheepdog i Aurskog under kennelnavnet Kalvehagan's. Oppdrettet av rasen under dette kennelnavnet går tilbake til 2021. En hund fra oppdrettet deltok i åpen klasse på Påskeutstillingen i 2024.

Line Marie Kragseth Sletner

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Alvida Baranauskiene driver oppdrett av rasen Golden retriever og holder til i Hønefoss i Norge.

Alvida Baranauskiene

## Quick Facts

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, recognised terrier breed with a strong drive to work and a clear hunting background. It is best suited to someone who wants to train actively, can manage hunting interest in everyday life and will also teach the dog to settle. In other words, small size does not mean small needs.

- **Origin:** England; the breed was developed further in Australia
- **Use:** earthdog and companion dog
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 25–30 cm
- **Approximate weight according to the breed standard:** about 5 kg at 25 cm and 6 kg at 30 cm
- **Coat:** smooth, broken or rough; white must predominate, with black and/or tan markings
- **Typical traits in the breed standard:** lively, alert, active, bold, friendly and quietly confident
- **Important for the owner:** hunting instinct, recall, the ability to settle and meaningful activity need to be taken seriously

The Jack Russell Terrier and the Parson Russell Terrier are two different breeds. The Parson is taller and more squarely built, while the Jack Russell is lower and slightly longer in body. It is therefore better to check the dog's registered breed than to judge by appearance or use the names interchangeably.

## Appearance & Coat

The Jack Russell Terrier should be strong, agile and rectangular, with a body that is slightly longer than the dog is tall. The ideal height is 25–30 cm, and the standard's weight guide corresponds to approximately one kilogram for every five centimetres of height. This is a proportion in the breed standard, not a dieting chart: a suitable weight for an individual dog must also be judged from build, muscle mass and body condition.

The chest should be deeper than it is wide and measure approximately 40–43 cm around behind the elbows. This relatively flexible chest relates to the breed's original work underground. The overall build should be functional and mobile, not heavy or exaggerated.

The breed has three coat types:

- **Smooth coat** lies close to the body and normally needs simple brushing to remove loose hair and dirt.
- **Broken coat** falls between the other types, with longer, harsh hairs on parts of the body.
- **Rough coat** has a harsh outer coat and undercoat and needs hand stripping when the coat is ready.

Broken and rough coats should be stripped, not clipped with a machine. Cutting old hairs rather than removing them can impair the coat's texture and its protection against moisture and dirt. Ask an experienced groomer to show you how your particular dog's coat should be maintained; the need follows the coat's maturity and quality, not a universal weekly timetable. Check the nails, paws, ears and teeth regularly at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Jack Russell Terrier is fundamentally a lively, alert and self-confident working terrier that should also be friendly. The breed was developed to make independent decisions close to quarry, and the same independence can appear in the home as initiative, persistence and quick reactions to movement or sound. Hunting interest remains even in dogs kept solely as companions.

The breed description is an ideal, not a promise about every individual. Temperament is affected by inheritance, early experiences, health, environment and training. Do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to meet at least the dam, ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, dog encounters, sudden sounds, handling and rest, and find out what the breeder selects for: hunting, dog sport or primarily companionship.

BPH can provide structured information about how an individual dog responded during a standardised assessment. However, it is not a pass-or-fail test and cannot guarantee a puppy's future behaviour. Older Swedish breed material also included too few assessed Jack Russell Terriers to support firm conclusions about the whole breed. For a puppy buyer, results from the parents and relatives are therefore more useful than sweeping claims about the breed average.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to learn, attend classes and work consistently with reward-based training. It is a poorer choice for someone primarily looking for a small, uncomplicated dog that can automatically be trusted off lead or is content with brief toilet walks.

## Training & Exercise

A Jack Russell needs daily movement, scent work, problem-solving and opportunities to wind down, but there is no correct number of minutes that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness, environment and the intensity of the activity determine the load. A calm woodland walk with time to sniff, a thoughtful training session and recovery can offer more than prolonged, repetitive ball throwing.

Build everyday life around several kinds of activity: walks over varied terrain, searching or tracking, short training sessions, controlled play and tasks that engage the dog's nose and body. Dog sports such as agility, nosework and tracking can suit many individuals, but training volume should increase gradually. For puppies, surfaces, pace, play and rest should be adapted to the individual; the often-repeated five-minute rule has no scientific support.

Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and responsiveness despite scents and movement
- recall and a separate emergency stop cue
- releasing objects and disengaging from activity
- calm lead walking and neutral passing of other dogs
- comfortable handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- going to a bed and relaxing
- being alone, introduced in very small and safe steps

Because of the hunting instinct, off-lead freedom should never be based on hope. Train first in a securely enclosed area and use a long line where it is safe until the dog can turn away from distractions and respond reliably to cues. Even a well-trained dog may need to remain on lead near wildlife, traffic and other hazards. Reward-based training with clear rules tells the dog what to do and helps preserve cooperation as arousal rises.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club states that the breed has no known breed-specific diseases but that patellar luxation occurs. This does not mean that every dog is affected or that the breed is free from every other illness; it means that a serious health review should start with documented results and the specific family rather than a long, unsorted list of diagnoses.

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that dogs used for breeding are examined for patellar luxation and undergo an eye examination. For eyes, the recommendation is an examination before breeding, then every three years and once after the age of eight. These are breeding recommendations; they should not be presented as though every examination were a universal registration requirement or a guarantee of healthy puppies.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registered names and numbers and verify:

- who performed the examination
- the date of the patellar and eye examinations
- the actual result, not merely the statement “tested”
- whether close relatives have had recurring knee, eye or other health problems
- the parents' ages and whether older dogs in the family have been followed up

A normal result reduces uncertainty about the specific condition examined but is not a lifelong guarantee. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition, build fitness gradually and consult a veterinary professional about recurring lameness, pain, changes in vision or marked changes in behaviour.

## History & Origins

The Jack Russell Terrier originated in 19th-century England and is associated with the Reverend John Russell. He developed Fox Terriers that could run with foxhounds and go to ground to bolt foxes and other quarry from their dens. The work required a small, agile, bold and independent dog.

Two types emerged from closely related lines. The taller, more square type became the Parson Russell Terrier; the lower and slightly longer type became the Jack Russell Terrier. The breed therefore has English origins, but Australia is listed as the country where it was developed further and where important work on the standard took place. The Swedish Kennel Club recognised the Jack Russell Terrier in 2001.

The history explains several traits that remain noticeable: functional size, an agile body, the ability to make independent decisions and an interest in seeking and following quarry. These qualities can be assets in training and dog sport, but they need direction in modern daily life.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Jack Russell works best when the home combines activity with clear routines for rest, safety and self-control. The breed can live in a flat; the size of the home matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it learns not to react to every sound in the stairwell or outside a window. Train calm behaviour and neutrality to sounds before barking has become a habit.

With children, the same basic rule applies as with every dog: an adult is responsible for the interaction, and the dog must have a protected resting place where it is not disturbed. Children should not take food or toys, carry the dog or follow it when it moves away. The breed's speed and intensity make calm, short interactions preferable to rough play without breaks.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individuals and should be developed through gradual, controlled introductions. Early familiarity may help but does not remove hunting instinct. Rabbits, rodents and other small animals need to be kept completely and securely separate; do not choose the breed on the assumption that training guarantees peaceful coexistence. A multi-dog home also needs separate resting places and ways to manage resources without competition.

Being alone should be taught gradually once the dog already feels secure in the home. Start with very brief absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used as an ordinary resting place or means of confinement in the home. Instead, provide a comfortable bed or a sufficiently large, safe area where the dog can move and choose where to rest.

Before buying, everyone in the household should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can we give the dog meaningful activity every day? Can we manage hunting interest through training, a lead and safe environments? Can we provide undisturbed recovery and consistent rules without harsh methods? If the answer is yes, the Jack Russell Terrier can become a highly engaged training partner and companion, but it will rarely be a passive little dog on the sidelines of life.

Jack Russell Terrier

Jack Russell Terrier: small, sturdy, energetic fox-hunting terrier with bold, intelligent nature. Needs 1–2 hours of daily exercise plus mental work. Predominantly white, three coat types, strong digging and prey drive. Affectionate with family but demanding and unsuited to very sedentary homes.

Irina Martinova driver oppdrett av jack russell terrier i Maura under kennelnavnet Jollydream's. Hun har vært oppdretter av rasen siden minst 2021. I 2025 ble en hund fra eget oppdrett beste hannhund junior på rasespesialen for jack russell terrier. Samme år var kennelen representert i åpen klasse på NKKs Arctic Winner-utstilling. Martinova er også pelstrimmer for rasen.

Irina Martinova

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small but powerful herding and cattle dog that is now kept mainly as an active companion. It is best suited to someone who wants to combine walks with everyday training, scent work or other forms of mental activity.

- Height at the withers: approximately 25–30 centimetres
- Breed-standard weight: 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females
- Country of origin: Great Britain, with the breed’s working history rooted in Wales
- Coat: a medium-length double coat that sheds, particularly during heavier seasonal moults
- Temperament: the ideal is a bold, alert and friendly dog, but individuals vary considerably
- Lifespan: the Swedish breed club describes many dogs as reaching 12–14 years, although health and longevity vary

The Pembroke and the Welsh Corgi Cardigan are two separate breeds, not varieties of the same breed. They differ in features such as size, colour and tail. Do not choose between them on the strength of simplistic claims that one is always calmer or more sociable.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke should be low-set, strong and sturdily built without appearing heavy or restricted. The body is medium in length, the chest is broad and deep, and the ears are upright. Despite its short legs, a healthy Pembroke should move freely and actively.

The breed standard gives an approximate height of 25–30 centimetres, a weight of 10–12 kilograms for males and 9–11 kilograms for females. These figures are guidelines, not the correct target weight for every dog. Body condition and muscle mass must also be considered.

The coat has straight, medium-length outer hair and a dense undercoat. Permitted colours are red, sable, fawn, and black and tan. They may appear with or without white on the legs, chest and neck; a small amount of white on the head and muzzle is also allowed.

Older descriptions can give the impression that every Pembroke has a short tail. In fact, puppies may be born with a full tail or a natural bobtail of varying length. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden unless it is medically necessary. A docked dog is therefore not Swedish-bred, so its origin and import documents should be checked carefully.

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is generally a little taller, has a long, fox-like tail and comes in a wider range of permitted colours. Colour or personality cannot identify the breed reliably; the pedigree establishes which breed the dog belongs to.

The coat does not require trimming. Brush it regularly and brush through the undercoat when shedding increases. This removes loose hair and makes changes in the skin easier to spot. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than to a fixed timetable. Calmly accustom the puppy to brushing, nail care and tooth brushing.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a bold, workmanlike, outgoing and friendly dog. However, the Swedish Kennel Club’s current BPH behaviour analysis shows considerable variation among the dogs assessed. Some greet strangers enthusiastically, while others show much less interest. A breed description therefore cannot predict exactly how any particular puppy will develop.

The Pembroke’s background as a farm and cattle dog is often reflected in watchfulness, quick reactions and an ability to make its own decisions. Many enjoy working with their owner, but some need more practice to choose the handler over events in their surroundings. This can make the breed rewarding to train, although everyday cooperation should not be taken for granted.

The Swedish Kennel Club highlights possible tendencies to guard, bark and nip at heels. The last of these is linked to the breed’s historical work close to the hind legs of cattle, but herding behaviour is not identical in every dog. Nipping at running children, feet or trouser legs should still be stopped early. Reward calm contact, attentiveness and choosing an appropriate task instead.

Vocal behaviour also varies. A Pembroke may react to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or anticipation, but the breed name alone does not determine whether barking will become a problem. Ask how the puppy’s parents and close relatives behave at home. Establish calm routines around the door, visitors and rest from the outset.

For a family with children, the right individual and a well-managed routine matter more than the label “family dog”. Dogs and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes or miles will not suit every dog. Age, health, fitness and what the walk involves all matter more than a standard timetable.

A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that requires concentration, such as searching for food, tracking or learning practical skills. Balance calm activities with movement and planned rest. A dog that runs a great deal but never learns to settle may still find it difficult to relax.

Start early with recall, loose-lead walking, impulse control and a calm cue that interrupts barking or nipping. Reward-based training makes the desired choice clear to the dog. Keep sessions focused and finish while the dog is still engaged rather than repeating the same exercise until interest fades.

The breed may enjoy obedience, rally, tracking, scent work and agility. Choose an activity to suit the individual dog’s body and motivation. Not every Pembroke has herding ability simply because the breed historically worked cattle; these qualities must be assessed in the individual.

Short legs are not a reason to treat a healthy adult dog as fragile. Build fitness and muscle gradually and provide good grip on slippery floors. Adjust exercise for puppies, older dogs and dogs recovering from injury. Sudden pain, reluctance to move, lameness or weakness calls for veterinary assessment, not blanket advice about stairs or ramps.

## Health

The Swedish breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as a generally healthy breed, but buyers should still check hips, eyes and documented health in the family. It is important to distinguish between registration requirements, breed-club advice and DNA tests that happen to be available.

Since January 2025, the Swedish Kennel Club has required both parents to have an official hip status before mating if their puppies are to be registered. Ask to see the results and how the breeder evaluated the proposed pairing; “X-rayed” does not mean that the result was clear.

Svenska Welsh Corgi Klubben, the Swedish breed club, also recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination before mating. Ask for current results for both parents and about eye findings in close relatives. The club also monitors lameness and premature closure of the ulna, known as short ulna, which can cause the front leg to develop abnormally. A young dog with an increasingly turned-out foot, a curved foreleg or lameness should be examined promptly by a vet.

DNA tests for degenerative myelopathy, or DM, and von Willebrand disease type 1 are available for the breed, but their results must be interpreted correctly. The current Swedish breeding strategy describes the DM test as a risk test and does not recommend routine testing, because it does not give the complete clinical picture and the disease has not been documented as a major problem among Swedish dogs. For vWD type 1, the breed club withdrew its previous routine-testing advice after a review with the Swedish Kennel Club’s DNA group. A laboratory result does not in itself prove that a dog is ill or will become ill. Ask the breeder why a test was performed and how its result was balanced against other aspects of health and genetic diversity.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition throughout life. A clear waist should be visible from above, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Weigh the dog regularly, but do not let the figures in the breed standard replace a proper body-condition assessment. Consult a vet if weight changes without a clear reason or the dog needs a structured weight-loss programme.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke developed in Wales as a farm and herding dog, but its earliest origins have not been conclusively established. Theories involving Flemish weavers, Nordic spitz-type dogs and a relationship with the Swedish Vallhund should be treated as theories rather than settled history.

Its documented work on Welsh farms explains the breed more clearly. Pembrokes helped move cattle to and from barns, guarded farms and performed several other duties. As heelers, they drove cattle while working close to the animals’ hind legs. The task demanded alertness, mobility and determination, as well as both independence and cooperation.

Pembrokes and Cardigans developed their own distinctive features in Wales but were long treated collectively as Welsh Corgis. They were separated into two breeds in 1934. The FCI lists the Welsh Corgi Pembroke as breed number 39 in Group 1 for sheepdogs and cattle dogs.

In Sweden, Pembrokes live almost entirely as companion dogs, although some still herd. Their working heritage is more often expressed through dog sports, scent work and an everyday life in which they solve tasks with their owner.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Pembroke can live in a flat, terraced house or detached home if its routine provides enough activity, rest and companionship. Its low height does not make it inactive, and a garden cannot replace walks or training. In a flat, it is particularly important to work early on calm responses to sounds in shared areas, movement outside windows and activity at the door.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief periods and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed. Puppies and anxious dogs need particular care. Dogs also need to be taken out regularly during the day, so anyone working long hours must plan for company and daytime walks.

The breed can live with other dogs or cats, but compatibility depends on the individuals and the introduction. Give a cat dog-free places and a clear escape route, keep early meetings controlled and prevent chasing. Small pets should be protected from stress and physical contact. Previous experience with another species is useful information, but it cannot guarantee the next relationship.

The Pembroke can suit a first-time owner who enjoys training and can be consistent without using harsh methods. It is less suitable for someone who wants a dog content with very short walks, that sheds little, or that will automatically be quiet and compliant.

The breed has grown markedly in Sweden. Careful checks become even more important as a breed gains popularity. Meet the breeder and the puppy’s mother, and verify registration, microchip details, the veterinary examination certificate and official health results. If the dog is imported or has a docked tail, its origin and import documents should be clear. A sound decision rests on records, open answers and how the dogs actually behave, not photographs or promises of a particular temperament.

Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Association Française du Corgi

The Welsh Corgi Pembroke is a small, sturdy herding dog with short legs, a fox-like face, and a weather-resistant double coat that sheds year-round. Intelligent, active, and people-oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, kind training, and careful weight and back management.

Marita Johansen Buskerud driver oppdrett av welsh corgi pembroke i Minnesund under kennelnavnet Royal Marialie's. Oppdrettet har historikk tilbake til 2021 og omfatter hunder født i 2021, 2024 og 2025. Hunder av begge kjønn fra oppdrettet har vært påmeldt norske hundeutstillinger. Påmeldingene i 2025 og 2026 omfattet valpeklasse, juniorklasse og åpen klasse.

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