## Quick Facts

The Papillon is a small, lively and quick-learning companion dog that often suits someone who wants to combine closeness with walks, training and everyday enrichment. The breed belongs to the Épagneul Nain Continental, or Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon has erect ears, while the Phalène variety has drop ears. In Sweden they are registered according to ear carriage, and a dog can be re-registered if its ears develop differently from the initial assessment.

- **Origin:** France and Belgium
- **Purpose:** companion dog in FCI Group 9
- **Height at the withers:** about 28 cm according to the breed standard
- **Weight:** the standard has two weight classes. The larger ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 kg for males and up to 5 kg for females. The other covers dogs under 2.5 kg, with 1.5 kg as the minimum weight.
- **Coat:** long, silky and without an undercoat
- **Activity level:** small in stature but often lively, willing to work and keen to learn
- **Longevity:** many reach an advanced age; according to the Swedish Kennel Club, 15 years is not unusual

Measurements in a breed standard describe an ideal, not a promise that every adult dog will be exactly that size. For a prospective owner, the parents’ size, the dog’s body condition and sound construction are therefore more useful than pursuing a particular figure or an extremely small individual.

## Appearance & Coat

The Papillon should be a harmoniously built toy dog that is graceful yet robust. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers, and movement should be free, light and elegant. Its small size calls for care around falls and play with much larger dogs, but the breed standard does not describe the Papillon as a fragile dog.

The large ears are the breed’s most distinctive feature. In the Papillon they stand erect and are carried obliquely outwards, resembling a butterfly’s wings. The Phalène instead has mobile drop ears. The difference is therefore ear carriage; both are varieties of the same Continental Toy Spaniel and can be born in the same litter.

The coat is single, without an undercoat, and should be abundant, glossy and slightly wavy rather than curly. It is short on the head and fronts of the legs but longer over the body, ears, chest, thighs and tail. White is the ground colour and must predominate on the body and legs. Coloured patches may be of different colours, while the lips, eye rims and nose should be well pigmented under the standard.

Coat care is usually manageable if tangles are prevented. Check the coat regularly and comb especially behind the ears and on the inner thighs, where the Swedish Kennel Club says tangles may readily form. Bathe the dog when it is dirty; no fixed calendar suits every individual. Check the nails, paws, ears and skin at the same time. Base care on the dog’s actual coat and daily life rather than a fixed bathing or clipping routine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Papillon is typically alert, lively and quick to learn, with a marked interest in people and activities. Its small body often contains more willingness to work than the label “lapdog” suggests. A Papillon may enjoy both close company and tasks involving concentration, problem-solving or body awareness.

Breed descriptions should not, however, be read as a guarantee of a particular personality. The Swedish Kennel Club’s BPH behavioural analysis shows considerable variation among participating Papillons, including how intensely they greet strangers, how readily they play and how curious they are. The results apply to the dogs assessed and primarily show why the individual, family lines, early experiences and continuing training all matter.

Alertness may show in how quickly the dog notices sounds, visitors and movement outside the home. This need not become a major barking problem, but it is sensible to reward calm behaviour from the start, give the dog an alternative task at the door and avoid allowing every signal to lead to excitement. Ask the breeder how the parents function in daily life, not only how they behave at shows or during training.

## Training & Exercise

The Papillon needs physical movement and mental enrichment every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A healthy, fit adult can often join surprisingly substantial walks, while a puppy, older dog or individual with a health problem needs a different load. Adjust activity to age, fitness, weather and recovery rather than treating body size as a measure of need.

The breed often learns quickly, including things you did not intend to teach. Reward-based training with clear criteria works well. Vary everyday obedience, scent work, balance exercises and small problem-solving tasks, and finish while the dog can still concentrate. Agility, obedience and other dog sports can be a good fit when training is developed gradually and the surface, obstacles and load are adapted to the dog’s size and maturity.

A small dog needs the same care with recall and exposure to different environments as a large one. Practise engagement and returning in safe places before allowing freedom where traffic, wildlife or larger dogs could present a risk. Also teach the dog to settle between activities. A Papillon given only high-energy tasks may become very good at getting excited but less skilled at relaxing again.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Papillon as a generally sound and often long-lived breed, but responsible health screening remains important. For Swedish litters, pap-PRA1 is the clearest formal checkpoint. Pap-PRA1 is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, which damages the retina. It is autosomal recessive: a carrier has one copy of the variant and does not develop that particular form, while a genetically affected dog has inherited the variant from both parents.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result for pap-PRA1 or to be recorded as hereditarily clear. Two carriers may not be mated, and an affected dog may not be used for breeding. A pap-PRA1 DNA test does not, however, rule out every other genetic cause of PRA or other eye diseases. An eye examination therefore serves a different purpose. The Swedish breed club, Papillon-Ringen, recommends an eye examination after three years of age to monitor other eye changes.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. The breed club wants breeding dogs to have a known normal patella result before mating. This is an important recommendation, but the current Swedish Kennel Club rules do not list patella status as a specific registration requirement for the Papillon. Ask to see the result rather than assuming registration itself covers it.

In other countries, recommended programmes may include additional tests. For example, the UK’s Royal Kennel Club lists an NAD test among the additional checks for the Papillon. This does not make NAD a Swedish registration requirement. Ask the breeder to distinguish between mandatory Swedish results, breed-club recommendations and optional additional tests.

Oral health also deserves attention. Small dog breeds are more often affected by periodontal disease, and daily tooth brushing is a simple way to reduce the risk of severe tartar and painful periodontitis. Bad breath, bleeding gums or reluctance to chew should be assessed by a vet.

## History & Origins

The Papillon originates from France and Belgium and is the erect-eared variety of the Continental Toy Spaniel. The type has been documented since the 16th century and appeared as a companion dog at European courts. The name Papillon means butterfly in French and refers to the large, obliquely carried ears with long fringes. Phalène means moth and is the name used for the drop-eared variety.

The FCI recognises the breed as number 77 in the companion and toy dog group. The modern standard retains both the Papillon and the Phalène. Its history explains the breed’s role as a companion, but the modern Papillon is not merely decorative: its liveliness and readiness to learn are evident in many present-day dog activities.

## Living with the Breed

The Papillon can live well in either a flat or a house when given daily activity, closeness and help learning to settle. The size of the home matters less than the shape of everyday life. A home where many sounds carry requires extra work on calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows, as an alert individual may otherwise begin to comment on every change.

The breed can live well with children, but this depends on the dog’s temperament, the child’s behaviour and adult supervision. Teach children to leave the dog undisturbed while it sleeps or eats, not to pick it up or grab it, and to play at floor level under supervision. This protects both dog and child and is more accurate than a general “child-friendly” label.

The same individual assessment is needed with other animals. A Papillon can live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Give the animals separate resources and places to retreat, and supervise play where there is a large difference in size. A friendly large dog can injure a very small dog accidentally.

Being left alone is a skill, not something that can be assumed from breed. Accustom the dog gradually to short periods alone and increase them only while it remains relaxed. Barking, whining, restless pacing, destructive behaviour or refusing a normally valued reward can indicate that the step was too large.

Before buying a puppy, check more than its appearance. Ask to see the parents’ registered pap-PRA1 results, patella status and any eye results, and ask why that particular mating was chosen. Meet the dam and notice how the dogs recover after new sounds and visitors. For a puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, you should receive the registration certificate, the Swedish Kennel Club contract and a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old on the day of handover. Screening reduces risk but can never guarantee a particular state of health or personality; open documentation and realistic expectations therefore matter more than promises.

Papillon

Papillon Breed Club UK

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

The Papillon is a small, elegant toy dog with large butterfly-like ears, a fine, silky parti-coloured coat and a plumed tail. Lively, intelligent and highly trainable, it enjoys activity and mental stimulation, makes an alert watchdog, needs regular brushing, and often lives into the mid–late teens.

Glimmerns är en uppfödare av rasen Papillon med bas i Södertälje i Sverige. Verksamheten inleddes med en papillon 1998, och den första kullen föddes 2001.

Glimmerns

## Quick Facts

The Havanese is a small FCI-recognised companion dog in Group 9. The FCI lists Cuba as the country of origin and describes how the dog type reached the island from the western Mediterranean. The breed standard gives a height of 23–27 centimetres, with a tolerance of two centimetres in either direction, but no official weight range. Assess likely adult size from height, build, body condition and the parents rather than a promised number of kilograms.

The standard’s ideal is an attentive, affectionate, cheerful, friendly and playful dog. That is a breeding goal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with children, unfamiliar people or other animals. Swedish BPH behavioural data instead shows clear variation within the breed.

The long coat is the breed’s biggest day-to-day commitment. It needs to be combed all the way to the skin and may require frequent care, especially during the change from puppy to adult coat. Having little or no undercoat does not make the Havanese allergy-free; dog allergens come from sources including skin particles and saliva and vary between individuals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Havanese should be small, low to the ground and sturdy without becoming heavy or restricted. Body length should relate to height at the withers by roughly 4:3. The front legs should be straight and parallel, and movement light, springy and directed forward. When assessing a dog, look for free movement without obvious lameness, uneven loading or front legs that bow markedly outwards. A profuse coat must not hide poor function.

The breed standard specifies a height of 23–27 centimetres. The stated tolerance extends the accepted range to 21–29 centimetres. The standard gives no ideal weight. Two dogs of the same height can therefore weigh differently because of frame, muscle and body condition. A dog close to either limit is not automatically better or worse, but the Swedish breeding strategy describes a trend towards larger, heavier dogs and stresses that the breed should retain its toy-dog character.

Under the standard, an adult’s outer coat should be very long, about 12–18 centimetres, soft and straight or wavy; it may also form curly strands. The undercoat is poorly developed and often absent. White, fawn, black, Havana brown, tobacco brown and reddish brown occur, as do patches and tan markings in permitted colours. Do not let colour outweigh health, temperament and sound function when choosing a puppy.

The standard calls for a natural coat and does not allow a show coat to be cut to an even length, with limited exceptions around the feet, forehead and muzzle. This is a rule about breed-typical appearance, not a reason to leave painful mats in place. Work a comb through small sections and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs and under a harness or collar. Frequency depends on length, texture, moisture and how readily the coat tangles; daily attention may be needed during the coat change.

Introduce the puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail trimming and tooth brushing, and pause if it becomes frightened or stressed. Bathe when the coat needs cleaning and dry it thoroughly. Brush the teeth daily with dog toothpaste, as small dogs are more commonly affected by tartar and periodontal disease.

## Temperament & Personality

Under the standard, the Havanese should be attentive, friendly and playful, but individuals differ in how they meet the world. The standard describes a desired temperament. It should not be used as proof that a puppy will automatically be good with children, quiet, fearless or easy for a first-time owner.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 BPH analysis includes 233 assessed Havanese. Among the participating dogs, there was substantial variation in how intensely they greeted unfamiliar people, how much they played, how curious they were and how they reacted to unstable surfaces. Many showed low social fear and did not threaten strangers, but the data covered only about 1.5 per cent of Swedish-born dogs from the analysed birth years. The findings therefore describe the participating dogs, not every Havanese.

BPH is a description, not a test that a dog passes or fails. Ask to see the parents’ full results and examine the individual reactions. Meet the puppy’s mother in her home environment and observe whether she can greet, choose not to engage, and recover from something unexpected without prolonged fear or stress.

Young children and the dog need adult supervision, and the dog needs a protected resting place. Its small body can be injured by rough play even if the dog seeks contact. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual, with distance, escape routes and a way to separate the animals. Previous experiences and the individual dog’s social skills matter more than the breed name.

## Training & Exercise

The Havanese needs daily movement, mental activity and practice in settling. There is no well-supported number of minutes that suits every dog. Adjust walks, play and other exertion to age, fitness, health, weather and recovery.

The breed was developed for companionship and often enjoys cooperation. Scent work, tricks, everyday obedience, rally obedience and appropriately adapted agility can provide useful variety, but competition is not required. Prioritise recall, loose-lead walking, waiting, releasing objects, being examined calmly and settling while things happen nearby. Use reward-based training with clear criteria and avoid physical or psychological coercion.

Alertness may become barking when someone moves through a stairwell or when the dog expects activity. Reduce unnecessary watching at windows and doors, reward calm behaviour and give the dog a clear alternative task. Treat grooming and short periods alone as skills to train from the start. House training is built through frequent opportunities to go outside, supervision and rewards, not punishment or an assumption that the breed is difficult to train.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Havanese as a relatively healthy breed, but a careful puppy purchase still requires checking recommendations and actual results. Current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules contain no breed-specific Level 2 or 3 requirement for patellas, eyes or heart in the Havanese. That does not make the examinations unimportant. The breed club’s recommendations are more extensive and must be distinguished from formal conditions for registering a litter.

The breed club recommends that breeding dogs receive a patella examination after one year of age and have no abnormal findings. It also recommends eye examinations roughly annually from one year to at least six years, with a result no more than one year old at mating, and a heart examination with no abnormal findings before mating. These recommendations are conditions for the breed club’s puppy referral service, but they are not the same as an SKK registration requirement.

Ask for the dogs’ registration numbers and verify the result, date and actual status in SKK Avelsdata. The words “health-tested” are not enough. Patella results can be registered from twelve months and are graded from 0, normal, to 3, a permanently luxated kneecap. Even a good individual result should be read alongside information about parents, siblings and previous offspring, because the family picture provides more information than a single examination.

Straight front legs and free movement matter to health as well as show results. The Swedish breeding strategy highlights bowed front legs, isolated cases of a shortened ulna, known as short ulna, and back pain and disc herniation. A study of 355 Norwegian Havanese found an association between an FGF4 variant on chromosome 18 and leg length/front-leg shape. It demonstrates an association in the population studied, but not that every dog with the variant develops clinical problems or that a particular DNA test is a Swedish requirement.

Watch the dog walk and turn, check that it loads its front legs evenly, and ask about lameness, pain, back problems and surgery in close relatives. Also ask about recurring eye problems, heart murmurs and persistent itching or other skin problems, as the Swedish breeding strategy identifies these areas. A veterinarian should assess symptoms; a breeder should be able to show what has actually been examined and why.

## History & Origins

The Havanese has a documented connection with both the western Mediterranean and Cuba. The FCI standard describes small companion dogs developing along the Spanish and Italian coasts and being taken to Cuba at an early stage by Italian sea captains. Cuba is listed as the country of origin, while the FCI holds patronage for the standard.

The old Cuban bloodlines disappeared on the island, but descendant dogs survived in the United States and were used to rebuild the modern population. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes a very small founder population, which helps explain why genetic diversity and restrained use of individual breeding dogs remain important. This is better documented than claims that the breed is Cuba’s official national dog or has an exactly known founding year.

The first dogs of the breed were imported and registered in Sweden in 1988, and the first Swedish litters were registered in 1989. Since then, the Havanese has grown greatly in popularity as a companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

The Havanese can live successfully in many types of home if the owner has time for coat care, daily activity and training. A flat is not automatically a problem, but stairwell sounds, distance to a toileting area and the opportunity to train calm behaviour must be manageable. A garden does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or companionship.

Time alone must be taught gradually. Start with very short periods when the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can rest without barking, pacing or showing other signs of stress. A puppy cannot be left on the same basis as an adult dog. Plan how working days will be managed before buying.

Try the grooming routine in practice before deciding. Ask the breeder to show how a comb is worked all the way to the skin, how long a complete session takes and how the coat changes during adolescence. If the family cannot keep the coat free of mats, it needs a different care plan developed with a knowledgeable groomer; breed-typical appearance must never take priority over the dog’s welfare.

Before buying, meet the puppy with its mother where the dogs live and verify registration numbers, pedigree and identity. Compare the parents’ patella, eye and heart results with the breed club’s current recommendations, and ask about temperament, front legs, backs and skin in close relatives. A puppy born in Sweden must be at least eight weeks old at collection and have a veterinary inspection certificate no more than seven days old at that time.

The best choice is not automatically the smallest, fluffiest or most outgoing puppy. Choose a dog from parents that move freely, have documented examinations, recover well and can be handled calmly. That tells you more about future daily life than colour, a marketed weight or labels such as “allergy-friendly” and “perfect family dog”.

Havanese

Norwegian Kennel Club

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Havanese is Cuba’s national toy breed, a sturdy, lively companion with a long, silky, low‑shedding coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, it suits families, apartments or houses. It needs regular grooming, daily walks, play, mental stimulation, and dislikes long periods alone.

Mälaröarnas är en uppfödare av rasen Bichon havanais med bas i Ekerö i Sverige. Uppfödningen bedrivs i liten skala i hemmiljö. Den första hunden av rasen kom 2016.

Mälaröarnas

## Quick Facts

The Biewer Terrier is a very small, active companion dog with the alertness of a terrier and a long, tri-coloured coat that requires considerable care. The breed was developed in Germany from Yorkshire Terrier lines but now has its own breed standard.

- **Size:** the current Swedish breed standard specifies a height of 21–26 cm at the withers and a weight of 2.2–3.8 kg.
- **Breed status:** recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the other Nordic kennel clubs, but not by the FCI.
- **Temperament:** lively, alert, close to its family and keen to join in activities; stubbornness and some prey drive may occur.
- **Activity:** needs exercise, play and mental training every day despite its small size.
- **Coat:** long, straight and silky with no undercoat. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as non-shedding, but the coat needs frequent brushing.
- **The key everyday question:** do you have time for coat care, tooth brushing, training the dog to stay alone and an active little dog?

## Appearance & Coat

The Biewer Terrier is a small, elegant dog whose most distinctive features are its long, tri-coloured coat and the ponytail on its head. The body is slightly longer than tall, although a squarer outline is also accepted. The ears are small and erect, the eyes are dark and the expression is alert.

The current Swedish standard specifies 21–26 cm and 2.2–3.8 kg. You may also encounter 18–28 cm and 1.8–3.6 kg in another Nordic version of the standard. This does not mean that there are two size varieties. Use the current Swedish Kennel Club standard when comparing Swedish information. These measurements describe the standard, not how large every puppy will become.

The coat should be long, straight, soft and silky with no undercoat. The head is blue or black, gold or tan, and white; the body is blue or black and white, with white on areas including the chest, abdomen, legs and tip of the tail as described in the standard.

This coat suits an owner who accepts a fixed grooming routine. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends going through it at least every other day and says that bathing may be needed every one or two weeks depending on coat length and need. Ease out small tangles before they become tight and pay particular attention where the coat rubs together. A short pet trim reduces the work but does not remove the need for combing, bathing and regular clipping. Anyone who wants to show the dog needs to keep the coat in a condition that meets the standard.

The fact that the breed does not shed according to the Swedish Kennel Club does not make it allergy-safe. Allergens also come from skin, saliva and other bodily fluids, and the Swedish Asthma and Allergy Association stresses that no dog breed can be called allergy-safe. Where dog allergy is a concern, the reaction needs to be assessed for the individual person and dog before purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

The Biewer Terrier is typically a lively, attentive and close companion, not a passive lapdog. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as cheerful, alert and fearless, while the breed standard highlights trainability, loyalty and a strong attachment to the family. This often makes the dog involved in everything happening at home.

The terrier side is most evident in watchfulness, independence and a desire to follow movement. The Swedish Kennel Club states that some prey drive occurs and that the dog may run after birds, cats and other small animals. A reliable recall, a lead where needed and early training around such distractions are therefore more important than the dog's small size might suggest.

Barking cannot be predicted from the breed name alone. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club describes considerable variation: some individuals bark, while others do not. If noise levels are decisive in a home with thin walls, ask what the parent dogs tend to react to and meet them if possible. Also plan early, gradual training around everyday sounds and calm behaviour at the door.

## Training & Exercise

The Biewer Terrier needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no well-supported minute-by-minute formula that suits every individual. Age, health, fitness and how well the dog settles after activity are better guides than a fixed number of minutes.

A workable routine includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play and short training sessions. Train recall, lead walking, handling, house training and settling calmly in clear, gradual steps. Small dogs need the same consistent everyday skills as large ones; carrying the dog past every difficult situation is not a substitute for training.

The breed may enjoy agility, rally obedience, nose work and trick training. Adapt obstacles and physical load to a small body and build fitness gradually. The aim is a dog that both wants to work and can settle at home; more activity is not automatically better if there is too little recovery.

## Health

The overall health of the Biewer Terrier in Sweden cannot yet be summarised with confidence because the number of registered dogs is limited. It is therefore more responsible to examine documented results and the closest relatives than to label the breed either healthy or unhealthy.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs according to the Swedish Kennel Club. The Swedish Biewer Terrier Club recommends that breeding dogs have a known patella status. Ask the breeder to show documented results for both parents and explain how any findings in close relatives have affected breeding decisions.

Eyes are another area to check. The breed club recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and describes both cataracts in Nordic dogs and the inherited retinal condition prcd-PRA, for which a DNA test is available. Ask for current eye results and how the breeder uses DNA results when planning a mating; a genetic test does not replace a clinical eye examination.

Teeth require practical preventive care from the start. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends daily tooth brushing because small dogs can readily develop tartar and poor oral health. Gradually accustom the puppy to having its mouth handled, and ask a veterinarian to assess retained baby teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty eating.

A good health discussion before purchase should therefore cover official results, actual diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's follow-up plan. A long list of conditions that can affect small dogs says less than verifiable information about the particular mating.

## History & Origins

The Biewer Terrier was developed in Germany during the 1980s from Yorkshire Terriers. The background section of the Swedish standard describes a 1984 litter in which puppies born to two purebred Yorkshire Terriers had white markings. The Biewer couple then continued to breed deliberately for the trait.

The breed therefore shares its origins with the Yorkshire Terrier, but it is not simply another colour name for that breed. It has its own standard, a defined tri-coloured pattern and is described in the standard as clearly genetically distinct from the breed of origin. The first Biewer Terrier registered in Sweden entered the Swedish Kennel Club register in 2018.

The breed is nationally recognised by the Swedish Kennel Club and other Nordic kennel clubs but is not recognised by the FCI. This mainly matters for registration and certain international show awards. If importing, ask the Swedish Kennel Club to confirm that the particular pedigree can be registered before paying a deposit; a registration certificate from another country is not in itself a guarantee of Swedish registration.

## Living with the Breed

The Biewer Terrier can live in either a flat or a house, but a small home does not make dog ownership low-maintenance. What matters is whether the dog receives daily activity, can be trained to stay calm around everyday sounds, and gets the extensive coat and dental care the breed needs.

With children, the dog's very small body is the main safety issue. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends that dogs and young children always have an adult present and that very small dogs are handled with extra care. Children should not carry a puppy, chase it or disturb it in its resting place. Calm interaction says more about suitability than the label “child-friendly”.

Living with a cat or other dogs can work, but it is not guaranteed by breed. The Biewer Terrier's prey drive makes a running cat especially relevant. Give the cat a secure dog-free area and high escape places, keep initial meetings short and controlled, and do not allow chasing. With other dogs, play needs to be managed so that the little dog is not injured by the size difference.

Time alone must be trained, not tested with a long first absence. The Swedish Kennel Club states that a young puppy cannot be left alone and that an adult dog trained to be alone can normally manage a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. Begin when the puppy feels secure, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The Swedish Board of Agriculture also advises that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day, and more often when young or old.

Before choosing the breed, you should be able to answer yes to four questions: can you care for the coat throughout the year, brush the teeth daily, plan gradual training for time alone, and give a small but active dog both exercise and mental work? If the answer is yes, the Biewer Terrier can be an engaged and close companion; if you want a low-maintenance little dog, it is a poorer choice.

Biewer Terrier

Deutscher Biewer Yorkshire Terrier Club (Germany)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (Belgium)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Biewer Terrier is a small, tri-colored toy companion dog with a long, silky, low-shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, playful, and people-oriented, it suits apartment living, needs moderate exercise, gentle training, and can live into its mid teens with good care.

Rex Glacies är en uppfödare av rasen Biewer terrier med bas i Vällingby i Sverige. Uppfödningen under kennelnamnet går tillbaka till 2022.

Rex Glacies

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Poodle is a small, active size variety of the Poodle with a strong appetite for training and a definite need for coat care. It is a companion dog that usually enjoys learning and taking part in daily life, but it is best suited to an owner who also wants to spend time on activity, settling skills, and regular grooming.

- **Breed and group:** one of the Poodle's four size varieties, placed in Group 9 for companion dogs
- **Official country of origin:** France
- **Height at the withers:** over 28 cm up to and including 35 cm under the breed standard
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight; a healthy body condition matters more than a generic figure in kilograms
- **Coat:** abundant woolly or corded coat that needs care and clipping
- **Activity level:** daily physical exercise and mental activity are needed, but the amount should suit the individual dog's age, health, and circumstances
- **Swedish health programme:** breeding dogs must have a registered prcd-PRA result or be registered as hereditarily clear before mating

The Miniature Poodle sits between the Toy and Medium Poodle in size. In Sweden, the final size variety can be confirmed by an official measurement only when the dog is at least 15 months old. A young dog near a size boundary may therefore be registered according to its parents' size before it has received its final measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Poodle should look like a smaller, well-proportioned Poodle without signs of dwarfism. Under the standard, the body should be slightly longer than the height at the withers rather than completely square, and the overall build should be harmonious with light, free movement. The dog should look elegant without being excessively fine or frail.

The coat comes in two textures. The woolly coat is fine, dense, curly, and springy, with even curls. The corded coat is also fine and dense but forms characteristic cords. Most family dogs are kept in a shorter trim, but a short coat does not remove the need for care.

Coat length, style, weather, and the individual dog determine how often brushing, bathing, and clipping are needed. Check especially where the coat mats easily, such as behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, and under a harness or collar. A comb should pass down through the coat without catching. If mats keep returning despite regular care, a shorter trim or help from a professional groomer is a better solution than following a fixed timetable that does not work for the dog.

Introduce a puppy gradually to standing on a non-slip surface, being combed, having its feet and face handled, and hearing clippers or a hair dryer. Reward calm behaviour and make each step easy to understand. This lays better foundations for safe grooming throughout the dog's life.

Since 1 August 2024, the Poodle standard and Swedish registration rules have covered 16 colour varieties. The solid colours are black, white, brown, grey, and apricot-red. Approved multicoloured varieties include, among others, white combined with another colour, black or brown with tan markings, tricolour, and brindle. Merle is not among the standard colours, and in Sweden offspring cannot be registered if a Poodle parent carries the merle gene.

Poodles do not shed in the same way as many other dogs, and loose hairs can remain in the curly coat until they are brushed out. This does not make the Miniature Poodle allergy-free. Dog allergens come mainly from skin and saliva, and reactions can vary more between individual dogs than between breeds. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore not choose a breed solely on coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Poodle should be alert, active, responsive, and quick to learn. A well-adjusted dog is often fast at recognising patterns and enjoys cooperation, but the breed description is an ideal, not a guarantee of how every dog will react to sounds, strangers, other dogs, or new environments.

The Swedish Poodle Club's breeding strategy reports BPH results for 630 smaller Poodles. The group includes Medium, Miniature, and Toy Poodles and consists mainly of Medium Poodles. The results describe, among other things, fairly energetic dogs, often with a positive attitude and few threat or aggression responses in the test situations concerned. The same material stresses both variation within the breed and that the number of assessed dogs is small relative to the population. The results can therefore say something about the group but cannot predict the temperament of an individual Miniature Poodle.

Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents and close relatives behave in daily life. Request specific examples of how they recover after surprises, respond to handling, visitors, and noises, meet other dogs, and settle. Those answers reveal more about a potential match than general words such as social, clever, or easy-going.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Poodle needs to move and use its brain every day, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. A good routine combines walks, opportunities to sniff and explore, play or other physical activity, and tasks the dog can understand and solve. The workload should change with age, fitness, health, and how well the dog recovers.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Be clear about which behaviour earns a reward, increase difficulty in small steps, and practise the same skill in different settings. Recall, responsiveness, calm handling, waiting, and passing people and dogs are more important in daily life than learning many tricks.

Variety is often more useful than simply extending a walk. Scent work, searches, retrieving, balance and body-awareness exercises, rally obedience, or other skills can provide purposeful activity. At the same time, the dog needs to be able to rest without constant entertainment. If it struggles to settle, review the entire day: sleep, surroundings, predictability, exercise, and training level. More activity is not always the right answer.

Puppies should not be exercised like fully grown dogs. Prioritise brief opportunities to explore, safe exposure to different environments, play on suitable surfaces, and plenty of recovery. For an adult dog, the right level supports good fitness and a workable daily life without recurring stiffness, lameness, stress, or prolonged exhaustion.

## Health

The most important breed-specific health requirement to verify when buying a puppy is the parents' prcd-PRA status. For Toy, Miniature, and Medium Poodles, Swedish registration rules require both parents to have an official DNA result before mating or to be registered as hereditarily clear.

Prcd-PRA is an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy that breaks down the retina's light-sensitive cells. Night vision is affected first, and an affected dog may eventually become blind. Inheritance is autosomal recessive: a carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated. A carrier may be bred only to a dog that is DNA-tested clear or hereditarily clear, and an affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A clear prcd-PRA result is not a general guarantee of healthy eyes. The test applies only to the prcd form and does not rule out other forms of PRA or other eye diseases. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends eye examinations for breeding dogs and encourages DNA testing for the rcd4 form of PRA.

Patellar luxation, in which the kneecap can slip out of its normal position, is another relevant breeding concern in smaller Poodles. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an official patella examination for Miniature Poodles, but this is not the same mandatory registration requirement as prcd-PRA. The club recommends that a dog with patella grade 1 be used sparingly and only with a dog recorded as 0/0.

Ask the breeder to show registered results rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested.” Check prcd-PRA status, ask about official patella and eye examination results, and enquire about known problems in parents, siblings, and previous litters. DNA tests, veterinary examinations, and an open family history complement one another; no single test can promise that a puppy will never become ill.

## History & Origins

The Poodle is an old European dog type depicted in paintings from the 1400s, while France is the breed's official country of origin. Its name and early use are closely associated with water: Poodles were originally used to hunt waterfowl, and it was mainly the larger dogs that worked as water retrievers.

The smaller Poodles were developed primarily as companions. During the 1800s, a dwarf variety began to be formed from small examples of the larger varieties. In Sweden, the smaller Poodles were divided into the Small Poodle and Miniature Poodle in the early 1930s; the former was later renamed the Medium Poodle. Today's Miniature Poodle therefore shares the breed's working background and trainability, but it should not be described as though every individual were automatically a water dog or retriever.

All four modern size varieties share the same basic breed type. Differences in size affect daily life, but they do not make the Miniature Poodle a separate crossbreed or a miniature with an abnormal build.

## Living with the Breed

The Miniature Poodle can thrive in many types of home, including a flat, if it receives daily exercise, mental activity, grooming, social contact, and training in how to settle. The size of the home matters less than what daily life actually provides. A small dog whose needs for recovery, walks, and safe alone-time training are not met does not have a good routine simply because it takes up little space.

Time alone should be introduced gradually. Begin with very brief, uneventful periods when the dog feels safe, and increase them only while it remains calm. Take age and signs of distress into account; no one can promise that a particular Miniature Poodle will cope with a set number of hours alone. Arrange a dog sitter or other help if the working day exceeds what the dog has been trained to manage.

The breed can live successfully with children, dogs, and cats, but this depends on the individual, previous experience, and introductions—not on the breed name. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introduce other animals gradually, using distance, a barrier, or a lead when needed, separate resources, and the option to end the interaction. Never force contact.

The best match is a home that enjoys a trainable, involved little dog and also accepts the practical work. Expect recurring clipping, thorough coat checks, everyday training, and activity throughout the year. Choose another breed if you want minimal grooming or expect a dog to adapt without planned training and companionship.

Miniature Poodle

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Miniature Poodles are small, athletic, low‑shedding dogs with dense curly coats and a square, balanced build. Highly intelligent, sensitive, and people‑oriented, they thrive on training, daily exercise, and close companionship, and typically enjoy long, active lives with good care.

Dancing Paws är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, dvärg med bas i Mölnbo i Sverige.

Dancing Paws

## Quick Facts

- The Chinese Crested Dog is a small companion dog with two coat varieties: hairless and powder puff. Both can be born in the same litter.
- The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard does not specify an official weight.
- The hairless variety has a crest on its head, so-called socks on its feet and a plume on its tail. The powder puff has a long, soft coat over its entire body.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful dog that should never be vicious. Even so, there are clear individual differences in sociability, curiosity, vocal behaviour and confidence.
- Skin or coat care, tooth brushing and protection suited to the weather need to be part of everyday life from the outset.
- When choosing a puppy, eye examination results, PLL status, dental status and the health and temperament of close relatives matter more than general promises about the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Chinese Crested Dog is small, active and graceful without necessarily being fragile. The breed includes both the elegant deer type and the somewhat heavier cobby type. The body should be moderately long to long, with a level back and long, flowing, free movement. All colours and colour combinations are permitted.

The ideal height at the withers is 28–33 cm for males and 23–30 cm for females. The current breed standard gives no weight, so the figure of 5.4 kg as an upper limit should not be treated as the modern ideal. Assess an adult dog by its proportions, muscle and body condition instead.

In the hairless variety, the body should be largely bare, with long hair on the head, feet and tail. The amount of body hair nevertheless varies between individuals. Ask to see the puppy before it has been trimmed, and ask the breeder to demonstrate how that particular dog's skin and furnishings should be cared for. The skin should be fine, soft and warm to the touch.

The powder puff has a thin undercoat covered by a veil of long, soft hair. The coat should be flowing rather than heavy or woolly. Part the coat and comb all the way down to the skin. Pay particular attention to early tangles wherever hair is dense or subject to friction. A weekly routine for bathing and checking the coat can be a starting point, but its condition should determine how often it needs detangling, washing and thorough drying.

Hairless skin needs to be checked for chafing, redness, spots and dryness. Young dogs can develop blackheads and spots during periods of hormonal change, although the extent varies greatly. Provide shade and suitable clothing when sun, wind, wet weather or cold make it necessary. A powder puff may also need weather protection because its fine coat provides relatively little warmth and is not particularly water-resistant. If the skin remains inflamed or itchy, or develops sores that do not heal, a vet should assess the cause and help with the choice of products.

Neither the hairless variety nor the powder puff is allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including skin cells, sebum, saliva and urine, and levels also vary between dogs of the same breed. A small amount of loose hair is therefore no guarantee for a family affected by allergies.

## Temperament & Personality

The Chinese Crested Dog should be cheerful and not vicious, but the breed encompasses many different personalities. In data from Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment, the dogs assessed appeared relatively confident, moderately curious and not generally vocal or aggressive. The same data show considerable variation in how dogs greet unfamiliar people, play and respond to unexpected events.

That is more useful than labels such as “Velcro dog” or “one-person dog”. One individual may seek a great deal of physical contact, while another may be more independent. Some greet visitors immediately; others prefer to observe first. Ask the breeder how the parents and close relatives cope with handling, new people, noise, settling and brief separations. Look for a puppy that can explore at its own pace and recover after something unexpected.

The breed can be alert and may bark when something happens, but that does not mean every dog is very vocal. In a home where noise carries easily, it is sensible to reward calm behaviour around doors, windows and sounds in communal areas from an early age. Find out whether the dog can also settle when nothing is happening. The ability to rest matters just as much as playfulness.

With children, the interaction matters more than the breed label. The dog's small size calls for extra care if children want to pick it up or carry it, but there is no general rule that the breed is suitable only for older children. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet place where it will not be disturbed.

## Training & Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog needs daily movement and mental activity, but there is no well-founded time formula that suits every dog. A good day might include walks with time to sniff, play, a short skills session and calm recovery. An active individual may enjoy longer outings, agility, rally obedience, heelwork to music or tracking, while another may prefer less demanding activities.

Adjust duration and intensity to the dog's age, fitness, the weather, its movement and how well it recovers. A hairless dog that tenses up in the cold is not having a worthwhile walk simply because a target duration has been reached. Choose protection and surroundings to suit the conditions, and add indoor training when needed.

Reward-based training works well for teaching everyday skills. Start with recall, walking on a lead, settling in one place, leaving objects and stopping an activity when asked. Also practise cooperative handling of the mouth, feet, skin, coat and ears. This makes tooth brushing, bathing, clipping and veterinary visits less stressful.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy has to greet everyone. Instead, let it encounter different people, dogs, surfaces, sounds and environments at a distance where it can still eat, think and choose whether to make contact. If it becomes frightened, make the situation easier and give it time to recover. This builds greater confidence than forcing an encounter.

## Health

There are no breed-specific health tests that must be completed before a Chinese Crested Dog litter can be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, SKK. The breed club does, however, issue clear breeding recommendations. The distinction matters when assessing a litter: guidance can be highly relevant without being mandatory.

The breed club states that both parents should have an eye examination no earlier than 18 months of age, with a certificate no more than one year old at the time of mating. It also states that both should have a known DNA status for primary lens luxation, PLL. In addition, it recommends a known DNA status for prcd-PRA and a known patellar status established from 12 months of age. A patellar examination is therefore an important point to check, but it is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Veterinary auscultation of the heart before breeding is described as desirable, rather than as a formal requirement or recommendation in the club's “must” and “should” categories.

Ask to see the result itself, its date and the dog's identity. A DNA test applies only to the mutation analysed and does not replace a clinical eye examination. A healthy carrier of a simple recessive condition does not automatically have to be excluded from breeding, but should be mated to a genetically clear dog so that affected puppies are not born. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

Eye conditions highlighted in the breed include PLL, different forms of PRA or retinopathy, and dry eye. Ask about examination results and symptoms in older relatives as well. The breed club's health review also discusses heart conditions that tend to appear later in life and indications of back problems. These findings justify questions about older relatives and early heart murmurs or back symptoms; they do not mean that every dog will become ill.

Hairlessness and dentition are linked through a variant of the FOXI3 gene, which affects the development of both hair and teeth. Hairless dogs may therefore lack some permanent teeth or have unusually shaped, forward-pointing teeth. Powder puffs do not have this specific genetic effect and should normally have a complete scissor bite. Congenitally missing teeth are not the same as periodontal disease, but both varieties need daily tooth brushing to limit plaque and gum disease. Monitor the change from puppy to adult teeth, and ask a vet to assess retained deciduous teeth, pain, bad breath or difficulty chewing.

In a large UK study, median life expectancy was 13.4 years among 928 Chinese Crested Dogs. The confidence interval for the median was 13.0–13.8 years. This result describes the study population, not how long an individual dog will live.

## History & Origins

The breed's early history is uncertain. China is listed as the country of origin and Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard, but it is not possible to trace an unbroken line from ancient Chinese hairless dogs to today's breed. Stories about dogs aboard trading ships, rat-catching and life during the Han dynasty should therefore be treated as theories rather than established facts.

The documented modern milestones are clearer. Chinese Crested Dogs were shown in the United States between 1885 and 1926, after which they were scarcely seen for nearly 50 years. Organised breeding in Britain was re-established with imports from the United States between 1965 and 1968. The first dogs arrived in Sweden in 1972, the first Swedish litter was born that year, and the dogs were registered with SKK in 1973. The Chinese Crested Club of Sweden was founded in 1990.

## Living with the Breed

The type of home does not by itself determine whether a Chinese Crested Dog will thrive. Both a flat and a house can work if the dog receives activity, rest and gradual training to be left alone. Assess the home in terms of noise, access to suitable places for walks and how easily the dog can get away from draughts, strong sunlight and commotion. A small body does not mean small needs.

A young puppy should not be left alone. Once it feels secure at home, training can begin with the puppy relaxing while you move behind a gate or leave the room very briefly. Increase the time only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has been trained gradually can often cope alone for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly. A camera can help reveal pacing, panting, barking or an inability to settle.

Cats and other dogs can live successfully with the breed, but low prey drive or trouble-free coexistence cannot be promised on the basis of breed alone. Make introductions gradually, prevent chasing, and give the cat a secure escape route and separate resources. Adapt play to the dogs' sizes and communication styles. Small pets should be kept safely apart unless you can control the situation with confidence.

The right home needs to be ready for the differences between the two coat varieties, daily dental care and a dog that needs both closeness and the ability to feel secure on its own. Meet adult relatives if possible, see the puppy untrimmed and check documented health results. These checks say far more than promises that all Chinese Crested Dogs are quiet, allergy-friendly or automatically easy family pets.

Chinese Crested Dog

The Chinese Crested Dog is a fine‑boned toy breed, either hairless with silky crest and furnishings or Powder Puff with a soft full coat. Affectionate and people‑oriented, they train well with gentle methods, need protection and care for skin or coat, and moderate daily exercise.

Planerar kull sommaren 2024 efter två renrasiga hälsotestade Chinese Crested.
Trevliga.glada och framåt föräldradjur.
Jag har gått SKK uppfödarutbildning och genomfört rasens uppfödarprov.
Inga foderhundar eller på avbetalning.
catharina.svahn1@gmail.com

Jacinda

## Quick Facts

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small but sturdy German breed with a strong instinct to watch, plenty of enthusiasm for work and a coat that needs hand-stripping. It is the smallest of the schnauzer breeds, but not simply a scaled-down Standard Schnauzer. The Miniature Schnauzer is a distinct breed developed for farm work in a compact, manageable form.

- **Height at the withers:** 30–35 cm for both dogs and bitches
- **Weight:** 4–8 kg according to the breed standard
- **Country of origin:** Germany
- **Original role:** rat catcher and farm dog
- **Coat:** harsh topcoat with a dense undercoat
- **Colours:** black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and white
- **Typical traits:** watchful, enduring, curious and often quick to raise the alarm

The Miniature Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage with their dog every day and accepts the need for regular coat care. Its handy size makes it easy to take along, but daily life still requires clear routines.

## Appearance & Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer should be compact, strong and roughly as long as it is tall. Its beard, bushy eyebrows and harsh coat create the familiar schnauzer outline. The standard gives the same height and weight ranges for both sexes, although an individual adult may sit at different points within those ranges depending on build and body condition.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The four recognised colours are solid black, pepper and salt, black and silver, and solid white. Colour does not determine temperament or how well a dog will suit a particular home.

The harsh coat needs hand-stripping, which removes mature, dead topcoat hairs. The Swedish Kennel Club advises stripping at least four times a year and working through the undercoat about once a week. How often an individual dog needs a full strip depends on coat quality, growth and how short you want to keep it. The beard, leg furnishings and softer areas need combing so that dirt and tangles do not build up.

Clipping may suit a dog that has become sensitive or finds it hard to stand through a stripping session, but it changes the coat's texture. Cutting the topcoat rather than removing the mature hairs often makes it softer and woollier. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer how the dog's coat has previously been managed before choosing a method.

A correctly maintained harsh coat normally sheds very little, but that does not make the Miniature Schnauzer allergy-free. Low shedding does not predict how someone with an allergy will react, and no breed can be guaranteed to suit everyone. If there is an allergy in the family, seek medical advice, spend controlled time with dogs and make a plan before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally attentive, curious and enduring. It quickly notices sounds, movement and people nearby, which can make it an effective small alarm dog. The same watchfulness may turn into repeated barking at the door, in a shared stairwell or through a window unless the dog is helped to settle.

Breed traits describe a tendency, not every individual. Swedish temperament assessments come from too small a share of breeders to provide a reliable picture of all Miniature Schnauzers. Differences between families and individual dogs can be considerable. Look at how a puppy's parents and close relatives behave in everyday situations. A secure dog should be able to recover after a surprise and relax when nothing is happening.

Miniature Schnauzers often learn quickly and can be rewarding training partners. Their owner still needs to make the desired behaviour clear and worthwhile. Harsh corrections can increase stress and barking. Calm, reward-based training makes it easier to teach the dog what to do instead.

## Training & Exercise

The Miniature Schnauzer needs physical activity and tasks for its nose and brain every day. There is no useful minute-by-minute rule that suits every dog. A healthy young adult may enjoy long walks and dog sports, while a puppy, older dog or dog with a medical condition needs a different level of exertion.

Mix walks in varied surroundings with short training sessions, scent games and time to explore at the dog's own pace. Rally obedience, scent work, trick training and agility are activities that can make good use of the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day. A better test is whether it can be active outdoors and then settle at home.

Start early with everyday skills: attention, recall, lead walking, handling of paws and beard, and relaxing in a designated place. Work on alert barking before it becomes a habit. Reward the dog for noticing a sound and then turning back to you, and teach a simple routine for the doorbell and visitors. Block the view if the dog is rehearsing barking through a window. Change one thing at a time and increase the difficulty only while the dog remains calm.

The breed's history as a rat catcher means that some individuals are keen to chase small, fast-moving animals. A reliable recall and a lead where wildlife may appear are sensible precautions, even though prey interest varies.

## Health

The Miniature Schnauzer is generally described as a robust breed, but urinary stones and eye disease are two documented concerns. The Swedish Kennel Club reports urinary stones in just over five per cent of the breed. The breed club's health work also monitors conditions including progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, and cataracts.

The breed also has a known predisposition to raised blood triglycerides. This does not mean that every Miniature Schnauzer becomes ill, and a raised result does not automatically explain digestive signs or pancreatitis. Recurrent vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, urinary problems or changes in vision need veterinary assessment. A vet can decide whether a urine test, eye examination or fasting blood sample is appropriate.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to show actual health information rather than simply saying that the line is healthy. Check the parents' recorded eye results and ask about urinary stones, recurring digestive problems and eye disease in close relatives. The breed club publishes DNA results for several testable conditions, but a DNA panel is not a general certificate of health and does not cover every form of PRA. Ask which tests have been done, what the results mean for that particular mating and which current recommendations the breeder follows.

Small dogs also need regular dental care. Introduce tooth brushing during puppyhood and check the mouth so that bad breath, tenderness or difficulty chewing is noticed early.

## History & Origins

The Miniature Schnauzer developed in Germany around the turn of the twentieth century. In the Frankfurt am Main area, a small schnauzer-like dog was known as the wire-haired Miniature Pinscher. The Swedish Kennel Club describes small schnauzers and Miniature Pinschers being used as breeders developed a more consistent type.

This small farm dog had to control rats and alert people to activity around farms and stables. That work helps to explain the modern breed's combination of speed, watchfulness and interest in small movements. The Miniature Schnauzer is now a companion dog, but it still benefits from using both body and brain.

## Living with the Breed

A Miniature Schnauzer can live in a flat, but a small dog is not automatically easy to keep close to neighbours. Consider whether you can manage sounds at doors and windows, provide several toilet outings and give the dog daily activity. The ability to settle indoors is often more important than the size of the home.

The breed can live happily with children when an adult helps both child and dog interact calmly. Young children and dogs should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Adults remain responsible for walks, training and grooming even when children are keen to help.

Whether a dog can live with a cat depends more on the individuals, their previous experiences and the introduction than on the breed name. Keep early meetings calm, separate the animals with a gate when needed and give the cat escape routes. Rodents and other small pets should be securely separated. The breed's documented rat-catching background means it is unwise to assume that prey interest will be absent.

Time alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage without distress. Begin with very short, uneventful absences when the dog is secure and increase the time only while it remains relaxed. Plan around the individual rather than assuming that a breed can be left for a set number of hours.

Choose a Miniature Schnauzer if you enjoy an observant, active dog and want to spend time on training and hand-stripping. Consider another breed if you want negligible coat care, a dog that rarely raises the alarm or a guaranteed solution for allergies and small pets.

Miniature Schnauzer

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Sweden)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (Germany)

Compact, sturdy Miniature Schnauzers are bright, trainable, and people focused. Their wiry, low shedding coat needs regular grooming. Alert watchdogs with a terrier streak, they need daily exercise, mental stimulation, and clear training, and often live 12–15 years.

Farahsolens är en uppfödare av raserna Dvärgschnauzer och Bichon havanais med bas i Hässelby i Sverige. Dvärgschnauzer har genom åren fötts upp i färgerna peppar och salt, svart, svart och silver samt vit.

Farahsolens

## Quick Facts

The Pug is a small, compact companion dog that likes to live close to its people. The breed is best suited to someone who wants a sociable everyday companion and is prepared to check its breathing, eyes, facial folds, teeth and weight regularly.

- **Origin:** China; Great Britain is responsible for the breed standard
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **FCI number:** 253
- **Ideal weight in the breed standard:** 6.3–8.1 kg
- **Height at the withers:** the breed standard gives no height
- **Standard colours:** silver, apricot, fawn and black
- **Coat:** short, fine, smooth and soft
- **Traditional role:** companion dog

The ideal weight describes how the breed should be built; it is not an individual target weight for every dog. A Pug should be muscular and powerful for its size without being overweight. Weight must therefore be considered alongside the dog's build, sex and body condition.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pug should be distinctly square, compact and powerfully built while still able to move efficiently. Its high-set, tightly curled tail and the dark mask on the lighter colours are characteristic features. The breed standard gives an ideal weight but no height at the withers, so claims of an official height range should not influence your choice of dog.

A Pug's head should be both characteristic and functional. The nostrils should be open, the nose wrinkle must not cover or interfere with the nose or eyes, and the eyes should not protrude. Look at the dog both at rest and after movement: free breathing, clear eyes and steady movement matter more than an especially short muzzle or heavy wrinkling.

The short coat does not need clipping. Brushing removes loose hair and provides an opportunity to spot changes in the skin. The amount a Pug sheds varies, and a short coat does not make the breed hypoallergenic.

Adapt the care of the facial folds to the individual dog's skin rather than following a timetable assumed to suit every Pug. The skin should be dry and free from redness and sores. Tenderness, discharge or a marked smell are reasons to contact a vet instead of trying different products yourself. Check the nails, ears and mouth regularly as well, and introduce handling in small steps.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Pug as charming, dignified and intelligent, with an even temperament and a happy, lively disposition. Bred as a companion, it often wants to be close and involved in daily life. This suits someone who wants to spend plenty of time with their dog, but it does not make every Pug the same.

Too few Pugs have completed Sweden's BPH behavioural assessment to support firm, detailed conclusions about the breed as a whole in Sweden. Upbringing, experience and health all influence confidence, activity, how readily a dog barks and reactions to unfamiliar people. If possible, meet the puppy's mother and other adult relatives. Look for dogs that settle after new experiences and can be sociable without becoming excessively aroused.

A Pug can live happily with children, dogs or cats, but the breed name is no guarantee. An adult should be present when children and dogs are together, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. Introductions to other animals should be calm and gradual, with room to move apart. For an adult dog being rehomed, its own history is often more useful than a general claim about the breed.

Discomfort can also change behaviour. A dog that suddenly avoids touch, becomes unsettled, loses interest in moving or changes temperament needs a health assessment, not simply more training.

## Training & Exercise

The Pug needs daily movement and mental stimulation, but no single number of minutes suits every dog. Age, fitness, body condition, temperature and, above all, breathing capacity determine how demanding an activity will be. Calm walks, scent-based activities and simple everyday training can be combined to suit the individual.

Reward-based training works well for engagement, recall, lead walking and cooperative handling. Keep tasks clear and pause before the dog becomes tired or frustrated. Food can be a useful reward, but include training treats in the dog's total food allowance so that training does not lead to weight gain.

Watch how the dog functions rather than comparing walking distances. A Pug should be able to move without loud breathing or obvious effort and recover without struggling for breath for a prolonged period. Stop and move the dog to a cool, quiet place if its breathing becomes markedly heavier, the dog starts to weaken or it does not want to continue. Bluish mucous membranes, collapse or fainting are emergency warning signs.

Warm, humid weather can make temperature control more difficult for a flat-faced dog. Move activity to cooler parts of the day, choose a gentler pace and avoid hard exertion. There is no single safe temperature threshold for every Pug. Let the dog's breathing, recovery and behaviour determine what is appropriate.

A puppy should be allowed to explore and develop coordination without long, pressured sessions. An adult Pug with good breathing and fitness can often do more than brief walks around the block, but increase the workload gradually. A dog that is repeatedly limited by its breathing needs veterinary assessment. This should not be dismissed as normal for a flat-faced dog.

## Health

Breathing is the most important feature to monitor in a Pug. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, or BOAS, occurs when narrowed upper airways make breathing difficult. Signs may include laboured or noisy breathing, poor recovery, sensitivity to heat and exercise, or disturbed sleep. Regurgitation can occur alongside airway problems. Severe breathing difficulty, bluish mucous membranes or collapse require immediate veterinary care.

In Sweden, the Pug is covered by the Swedish Kennel Club's RFG-Scheme health programme. For a litter to be registered, both parents must have a valid official RFG result before mating. The official assessment can be completed from 24 months of age, and the certificate must be no more than 24 months old at the time of mating. Dogs with BOAS grade 2 or 3, or with severely stenotic nostrils, must not be used for breeding.

Grade 0 means that the dog is clinically unaffected and free from BOAS-related breathing problems at the assessment. Grade 1 means that the dog is clinically unaffected but has mild signs that do not affect performance during the exercise test. The result describes the dog at that point in time and is not a lifelong guarantee. When choosing a puppy, ask to see both parents' results, assessment dates and assessments of their nostrils. A puppy is too young to have its own official result.

The eyes are another important area to check. Protruding eyes are more exposed to injury, while misdirected hairs, inward-turning eyelids or dry eye can irritate the cornea. Squinting, increased tearing, redness, cloudiness, discolouration or rubbing at an eye should be assessed promptly by a vet. A corneal ulcer can be very painful even when it is difficult to see without a special stain.

Facial folds, the mouth and body condition need attention throughout life. Dry the folds when they become damp and seek help if the skin becomes inflamed. Introduce toothbrushing while the dog is young and check the teeth and gums regularly. Ask a vet to show you how to assess body condition as well; excess weight can add to the strain on breathing and movement.

The Swedish breed club, MopsOrden, recommends that both parents have a known status for patellar luxation and for NME/PDE, an inflammatory brain disease seen in Pugs. These are breed-club recommendations and should not be confused with the mandatory RFG requirement for registration. The NME DNA test indicates genetic susceptibility; it does not show that a dog has the disease or will definitely develop it. Ask the breeder to explain both the results and the reasoning behind the mating, without treating a marker test as a clean bill of health.

In a large British study published in 2024, the median lifespan for Pugs was 11.6 years. The study describes the British dogs included and does not predict the lifespan of an individual dog in Sweden. Breathing, body condition, eyes, teeth, general health and access to veterinary care all affect quality of life over the years.

## History & Origins

The Pug's official country of origin is China, while Great Britain is its home country and is responsible for the breed standard. Its early history is not fully documented. Stories about Chinese palace dogs, Dutch trading ships and royalty are therefore better viewed as traditions associated with the breed than as a completely verified history.

There are firmer milestones later on. The Pug was mentioned in a Swedish academic dissertation in 1753. The breed was shown at a British dog show in 1861, and the English breed club was founded in 1883. During its development in Great Britain, the Pug acquired much of the form described in today's breed standard.

The breed's history explains its role as a companion, but older ideals should not be used to defend exaggeration. The modern standard requires open nostrils, non-protruding eyes and efficient movement, among other features. A typical Pug should also function well in everyday life.

## Living with the Breed

A Pug can live in a flat or a house. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days are like. Regular toilet breaks, activity suited to the dog, a cool resting place and the chance to be close to the family without constantly being the centre of attention are what matter. In a building where sound carries, it is also worth teaching calm responses to noises in corridors and outside the door from an early age.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, increase the duration in small steps and shorten it again if the dog becomes distressed. How long an adult Pug can remain settled alone varies with the individual, its experience, age and health. A puppy needs more frequent supervision and toilet breaks than an adult.

Before choosing a puppy, it is particularly useful to:

- watch the parents move and listen to their breathing before and after activity
- check both parents' current official RFG results and assessment dates
- ask about eyes, skin, teeth, patellas and NME/PDE in the family
- check that the nostrils are open and the nose wrinkle does not interfere with the eyes or nose
- choose a breeder who can explain both the strengths and weaknesses of the mating
- plan for veterinary care and ongoing checks of breathing, eyes, mouth, skin and body condition

The Pug is best suited to someone who values a sociable, compact companion and lets the dog's breathing and stamina guide daily life. It is less suitable for anyone who wants a dog for hard exercise in all weather or does not want to spend time on health checks and preventive care.

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) - Germany

Small, sturdy companion dog with wrinkled face, curled tail and expressive eyes, usually 6–8 kg and suited to city homes. Affectionate, people focused and playful, needs moderate gentle exercise, close family contact, careful weight control and extra management in hot weather due to its short nose.

Ubiquity's är en uppfödare av rasen Mops med bas i Huddinge i Sverige. Uppfödningen har bedrivits sedan 2014. Mops har fötts upp under kennelnamnet sedan 2021. Hundar från uppfödningen har deltagit i officiella utställningar.

Ubiquity's

## Quick Facts

- The Löwchen is a small French companion breed in FCI Group 9, despite its German name.
- The breed standard gives a height of 26–32 centimetres, with a tolerance of one centimetre, and a weight of approximately 6 kilograms.
- The body should be square, meaning that the dog is as long as it is tall.
- The long, wavy coat has no undercoat and needs regular care to prevent matting.
- The lion trim is compulsory in the show ring, but a companion dog does not need to wear the show trim in everyday life.
- The breed is described as affectionate, attentive and responsive, but the Swedish BPH evidence is still too limited to support conclusions about traits such as barking or guarding.
- Patellar health, eye health and genetic diversity are particular priorities in Swedish breeding.

## Appearance & Coat

The Löwchen is small but sturdy, with a square body, proud head carriage and lively movement. Its official height is 26–32 centimetres at the withers, with a tolerance of one centimetre, and its weight is approximately 6 kilograms. The older idea that the breed should be longer than it is tall is therefore contrary to the standard: body length and height at the withers should be equal.

The coat should be silky, long, wavy and dense, without an undercoat. All colours and colour combinations are permitted. The lack of an undercoat does not make grooming optional. Hair that is not shed in the same way as it is in many moulting breeds can remain in the coat, while friction behind the ears, in the armpits and around the legs can quickly cause tangles.

A practical routine is to work through the coat in small sections and check it with a comb right down to the skin. The necessary frequency depends on coat length and texture, the weather and the dog’s activities. The comb should pass through without catching; do not wait until the surface looks matted. Introduce a puppy gradually to combing, paw handling, nail clipping, bathing and the hairdryer so that grooming becomes predictable rather than a struggle.

The traditional lion trim is the style described in the breed standard. The hindquarters and parts of the legs are clipped, while areas including the forequarters and the plume of the tail are left long. The trim is compulsory when a Löwchen is shown, and the long sections must not then be shaped. It is not a health requirement for a companion dog; a more practical pet length can make it easier to keep the skin clean and the coat free from mats.

The Löwchen is described as a breed that does not moult in the usual way, but that does not make it allergy-free. Dog allergens mainly come from skin and saliva, and the amount varies between individuals. Anyone with an allergy should therefore spend time with the particular dog on several occasions and discuss their circumstances with a healthcare professional rather than choosing a breed on coat type alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Löwchen as affectionate and obedient towards its owner, attentive and responsive, and calm and discreet when required. This is a useful picture of the breeding ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave. Genetics, early experiences, the home environment and training all influence the adult dog.

It is particularly important not to treat barking, guarding instinct or fearlessness as fixed breed traits without sufficient evidence. In the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy adopted in 2025, 37 Löwchen had completed the BPH behavioural assessment. The breed club itself considered that too few for evidence-based conclusions about the breed’s temperament. Ask the breeder how the puppy’s parents react to unfamiliar people, noises, handling, new environments and quiet time, and, if possible, meet at least the dam.

A small companion dog can enjoy being close to the family without always wanting to be carried or stroked. Teach children to let the dog move away, not to disturb it while it is eating or asleep, and never to pick it up without adult help. An adult should supervise all contact with young children. The same caution applies to other dogs and cats: a Löwchen may live happily with them, but its breed does not guarantee compatibility. Calm introductions, room to move away and separate resting places matter more than broad promises about how well animals will get on.

## Training & Exercise

The Löwchen needs daily movement, scent work, play and training, but there is no verified number of minutes that suits every adult of the breed. A healthy adult can have several walks with time to explore, combined with short training sessions and rest. Adjust the amount to age, fitness, health, weather and what the dog did the previous day. A suitable routine leaves the dog content and able to engage, rather than repeatedly stiff, lame or exhausted.

Reward-based training suits an attentive companion dog. Start with the skills that make everyday life safe: engagement, walking on a loose lead, recall, waiting, accepting handling and settling when nothing is happening. If the dog alerts to sounds in a shared hallway, reward the pause and guide it to a quiet place. Shouting over barking rarely provides the clarity you want.

For a puppy, varied, self-directed movement is more useful than the so-called five-minute rule. That formula — a set number of walking minutes for each month of age — does not tell you what your individual puppy can manage. Let the puppy explore at its own pace, provide controlled play and increase distance, surfaces and difficulty gradually. Stop and contact a vet if the puppy shows lameness, pain or reluctance to move. Do not try to prevent patellar luxation with an invented formula for stairs or jumping; work from the puppy in front of you and seek veterinary advice if you are unsure.

The breed’s size allows many activities to be adapted to it, including everyday obedience, nose work, rally obedience and agility. Choose activities to suit the dog’s interest and physical ability rather than assuming that every Löwchen enjoys the same things.

## Health

Before buying a Löwchen puppy, patellar status, eye health and a sufficiently broad breeding base are the three most important documented areas to check. This does not mean that every dog is affected, but the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy for 2025–2029 shows why breeders should address them systematically.

The strategy recommends that a vet examines breeding dogs’ knees for patellar luxation after one year of age. Dogs graded higher than 1 should not be bred from, and the recommendation is that a grade 1 dog should only be paired with a grade 0 dog. Ask to see the official result for both parents and check the examination date and the dog’s identity.

For the eyes, breeding dogs should be screened and the result should be no more than two years old at the time of mating. The strategy also recommends screening breeding dogs up to eight years of age. A finding does not automatically lead to the same breeding decision in every case; the assessment depends on the diagnosis, symptoms and veterinary guidance. Reading the actual certificates is therefore more informative than simply asking whether the parents have been ‘tested’.

There is an important difference between an officially recorded result, a recommendation in the breeding strategy and a formal condition for registering puppies. Patellar and eye results can be recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club for every breed. In the 2026 registration rules, however, the Löwchen has no special health condition. The examinations described above are therefore strong Swedish breeding recommendations; they are not something that can be assumed merely because a litter is registered.

The Löwchen has a small population internationally. The breeding strategy therefore stresses low relatedness between parents, avoiding repeat matings and not overusing individual breeding dogs. A puppy buyer can ask how the breeder assessed relatedness, why these particular parents were paired and how extensively they have already been used for breeding. Those questions complement the health certificates and show how the breeder is protecting the breed’s long-term genetic diversity.

Contact a vet if the dog is repeatedly lame, suddenly holds up a leg, or shows eye irritation, a change in vision or pain. Keep the dog at an appropriate body condition and use grooming sessions to check the skin, ears, teeth, nails and paws. There is not enough evidence to call other conditions typical of the Löwchen merely because they occur in small dogs.

## History & Origins

The Löwchen is officially a French breed, although its name is German and means approximately ‘little lion’. Its French FCI name is Petit Chien Lion and its English name is Little Lion Dog. France is listed as both the country of origin and the country responsible for the standard, and the breed belongs to the companion dogs in FCI Group 9.

The official standard refers to two small dogs of Löwchen type carved in stone in the cathedral at Amiens in the 1200s. The characteristic outline also appears in tapestries from the 1400s and in later European art. These documented images show the breed’s historical type. Stories that the dogs worked as water retrievers, bed warmers or status symbols do not have the same support and should not be treated as established fact.

The French breed club was formed in 1947. The FCI granted definitive recognition in 1961, and the current FCI standard was published in 2004. The lion-like outline therefore has a long documented history, but the modern breed is clearly defined as a companion dog with no working trial.

## Living with the Breed

A Löwchen can live in a flat or a house if its routine includes walks, enrichment, coat care, rest and planned training for time alone. Floor space matters less than the routine. In a building where sound carries, the owner also needs to teach calm behaviour around doors, lifts and noises in communal areas, because the breed cannot be assumed to be either silent or especially vocal.

Time alone should be introduced in very small steps when the dog has been exercised and is calm. Begin with brief, uneventful separations and return before the dog becomes distressed. Increase the time only when the dog can settle at the current stage. There is no evidence that every Löwchen has separation problems, but its role as a companion dog is a good reason to arrange daily life so it is not left for longer than it can comfortably manage.

The coat accounts for the largest recurring commitment. Anyone who wants a full coat or plans to show the dog will need to spend more time detangling it and maintaining the correct lion trim. A shorter pet trim reduces the amount of hair to work through but does not remove the need for combing, bathing, clipping and handling practice. Be prepared either to learn the care properly or to use a dog groomer, and remember to check the skin beneath the coat.

Before buying a puppy, ask for more than general assurances that the line is healthy and good-natured. Check the original patellar and eye results, confirm that the patellar examination took place after one year of age, and make sure the eye result was no more than two years old at mating and that any findings were properly assessed. Also ask about the parents’ everyday behaviour, any completed behavioural assessments and how the mating contributes to genetic diversity. The answers help distinguish a carefully planned breeding decision from a litter that merely meets the minimum standard for registration.

The Löwchen is best suited to someone who wants a small, active companion and accepts the work involved in maintaining its coat. It is a poorer match for anyone looking for a maintenance-free coat, a guaranteed allergy-safe dog or a predetermined temperament. Choose the individual dog and breeder as carefully as the breed.

Löwchen

American Kennel Club (AKC)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

The Löwchen is a small, sturdy companion dog known for its lion-like trim, long wavy coat, and proud, lively demeanor. Affectionate, alert, and people-focused, it suits varied homes, needs regular grooming, moderate daily exercise, kind training, and close involvement in family life.

Brec's är en uppfödare av rasen Löwchen med bas i åkersberga i Sverige.

Brec's

Schnauzi-Heros är en uppfödare av rasen Dvärgschnauzer med bas i Lidingö i Sverige. Uppfödningen har sedan 1997 varit helt inriktad på dvärgschnauzer i färgvarianten peppar och salt. År 2023 uppmärksammades 50 år av hunduppfödning.

Schnauzi-Heros

Piece of art's kennel är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, dvärg med bas i Tumba i Sverige.

Piece of art’s kennel

## Quick Facts

- The English Toy Terrier is a small British companion dog with a distinct terrier character.
- The breed standard specifies an **ideal height of 25–30 cm** and an **ideal weight of 2.7–3.6 kg**. These figures describe the ideal, not every healthy adult dog.
- The coat is short, close, smooth and glossy. The colour is black with clearly defined tan markings.
- The breed is active, alert and often quick to raise the alarm, but sociability, tendency to bark and stress tolerance vary between individuals and bloodlines.
- The fine coat offers little protection from the cold. A well-fitting coat may be needed on cold Scandinavian days.
- Small rodents may trigger the instinct to chase. Children and larger dogs need calm supervision around the dog to reduce the risk of injury.
- Give greater weight to documented health, temperament and pedigree diversity than to a long list of unspecified genetic tests.

## Appearance & Coat

The English Toy Terrier should be elegant, compact and well balanced, with clean lines but no suggestion of frailty. The head and legs should be in proportion to the body, and movement should be free, even and precise. The thin, high-set ears have a distinctive candle-flame shape and should be fully erect from nine months of age.

The breed standard expressly describes 25–30 cm and 2.7–3.6 kg as ideal measurements. They are neither a general normal range nor the only measure of a sound dog. Also consider body condition, balance, movement and how the dog functions in everyday life. A dog outside the ideal weight is not automatically overweight or underweight.

The only accepted colour is black with tan markings on defined parts of the head, chest, legs and underside. Black and tan should be clearly separated. The coat should be short, close, smooth and glossy. It usually needs little work: wipe away dirt and use a soft brush or cloth when required. At the same time, check the skin, paws, nails, ears, eyes and mouth.

The short coat has no warm undercoat. Adjust time outdoors to the weather, the level of activity and the individual dog. A coat can be sensible in cold weather, but the dog still needs exercise and daily time outside. Rinse and dry the paws after contact with road salt, and introduce calm nail care and tooth brushing from an early age.

## Temperament & Personality

The English Toy Terrier is normally an alert and active companion, but breed descriptions cannot replace an assessment of the individual dog. The standard calls for an alert temperament without undue nervousness. Swedish breed documents describe many dogs as curious, affectionate and keen to be involved, but they also report considerable variation in owners' experiences.

The breed can be reserved with strangers, and some individuals are quick to bark when someone comes to the door. This does not mean that every English Toy Terrier is aloof or noisy. A prospective owner should meet the dam and, where possible, the sire or other adult relatives. Watch how they respond to unfamiliar people, sounds and gentle handling, and how quickly they recover after something unexpected.

The Swedish BPH behavioural assessment data do not provide a reliable profile of the breed. The 2022 breed-specific breeding strategy included only 21 BPH starts, and the published breed average was based on just 11 Swedish-born dogs. Results for this small group indicated uncertainty and lower confidence around unfamiliar people, but the sample is too small to describe all dogs. Ask about temperament across several generations and avoid clearly timid, nervous or easily stressed parents.

The breed's history as a rat catcher appears in some dogs as an interest in small, fast-moving animals. Mice, hamsters and guinea pigs should therefore be kept securely apart. Living with a cat or another dog depends on the individual, previous experience and the introduction; the breed name is no guarantee. Play with much larger dogs needs to be controlled, as a small, fine-boned dog can be injured even when both dogs are friendly.

## Training & Exercise

The English Toy Terrier needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but a fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, health, weather, pace and what the dog is actually doing matter more than a generic time target. Combine daily walks and longer outings with scent work, play, simple searches, tricks and quiet downtime. An adult can often manage more activity than its size suggests, while a puppy needs shorter sessions, free movement and plenty of rest.

Reward-based, progressive training suits the breed's quick and attentive nature. Keep sessions short and clear. Give particular attention to engagement, recall, walking on a loose lead and turning away from moving distractions. Use an enclosed area or a long line until recall works even when the surroundings are tempting.

To prevent persistent barking at the door, teach the dog to go to a designated place away from the hall. Reward it for settling there, and ask visitors to wait before interacting until the dog is calm. The aim is not total silence, but a clear alternative to continued alarm barking.

Gently accustom the puppy from an early age to having its teeth and ears examined, its legs and paws touched and its body lifted safely. Training should be voluntary, positive and broken into small steps. This makes routine care, veterinary visits and being examined on a table at dog shows easier.

## Health

For the English Toy Terrier, it is important to distinguish between recommended health checks, tests that are relevant only to certain pedigrees and binding registration requirements. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends eye testing and checks of the patellae and heart. The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, however, specify no mandatory breed-specific health test for the English Toy Terrier. A check can still be valuable even when it is not compulsory.

The Swedish health evidence is limited. The breeding strategy reports heart murmurs in a small survey and only modest numbers of dogs examined for eye and patellar conditions. These figures justify questions and checks, but they cannot establish how common a condition is across the breed. Ask to see dated results for both parents and enquire about diagnoses in siblings, parents and previous offspring.

The Swedish breeding strategy mentions three DNA tests for breeding dogs with American or Canadian dogs in their pedigrees: juvenile dilated cardiomyopathy (JDCM), xanthinuria and von Willebrand disease type 1. The current British health standard recommends JDCM, xanthinuria type II and eye testing for the breed, but does not list vWD1. This is a good reason to check the pedigree and the relevant national guidance before ordering a broad test panel without a clear purpose.

JDCM is a serious heart condition that can appear early in life. Xanthinuria type II can cause xanthine crystals in the urinary tract and kidney damage. Both are described as autosomal recessive: a dog with one altered copy is a carrier and is not expected to develop the condition, while two altered copies mean the dog is at risk of disease. A carrier need not automatically be excluded from breeding; the mating must be planned so that puppies do not inherit two altered copies, while genetic diversity is protected.

Before buying a puppy, ask for clear answers to the following questions:

- Which eye, patellar and heart checks have been carried out, when were they done and what were the results?
- Are there American or Canadian dogs in the pedigree, and which DNA tests are therefore relevant?
- What is known about the health and temperament of close relatives, not only the parents?
- How does the breeder avoid close matings and the overuse of individual breeding dogs?

## History & Origins

The English Toy Terrier is a British toy breed descended from the Black and Tan Terrier. During nineteenth-century urbanisation, small terriers were used to control rats, and bloody rat-killing contests also took place in public houses. This history helps to explain the breed's terrier character, but should not be romanticised.

In Britain, the breed was known by several names, including Miniature Black and Tan Terrier and Black and Tan Toy Terrier. The Kennel Club changed the name to English Toy Terrier (Black and Tan) in 1960. The first documented import to Sweden arrived from the United States in 1958.

North American Toy Manchester Terriers have since been used to broaden the small gene pool and may appear in Swedish and other Nordic pedigrees. That does not make the two breed standards identical. The Swedish breeding strategy notes differences including head shape and topline. For a prospective owner, the pedigree helps explain both the dog's background and which DNA tests may be relevant.

## Living with the Breed

The English Toy Terrier can do well in a flat if it gets outdoors, uses both body and mind, and learns to settle despite sounds in the building. The size of the home is no substitute for walks, and a garden does not replace daily activity either. If sound travels easily, begin early with calm behaviour around the door, lift and communal hallway.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can cope with. Start with very short periods when the dog is secure and settled, increase the time slowly and take a step back if it shows distress. Arrange help during working days rather than assuming that a small dog can be left for long periods.

The breed can live with children, but an adult should always be present with young children. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children should not lift, carry or chase it. The same caution applies to boisterous play with larger dogs. The English Toy Terrier is fine-boned but not an ornament: it needs safe physical activity while the family prevents falls, crushing injuries and rough handling.

The breed is best suited to someone who values a small but active dog, can provide daily company and training, and is prepared to judge the individual rather than rely on stereotypes. A sound decision is based on meeting adult relatives, checking health records and having a routine that still works in cold weather or when the dog cannot come along.

English Toy Terrier

English Toy Terrier Club (UK)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Small, elegant black-and-tan toy terrier with a fine but athletic build and low‑maintenance short coat. Loyal and people-focused, often bonding closely with one person. Lively, intelligent and sensitive, needs daily exercise, mental stimulation and protection from temperature extremes.

winsome flames är en uppfödare av rasen English toy terrier med bas i Bromma i Sverige. Uppfödningen bedrivs i liten skala.

winsome flames

Khaos är en uppfödare av rasen Löwchen med bas i Nykvarn i Sverige.

Khaos

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

## Quick Facts

The Medium Poodle is one of the four recognised Poodle sizes, sitting between the Miniature and Standard varieties. It is an attentive, highly trainable companion dog with a coat that demands considerable care.

- **Size:** Height at the withers must be over 35 and no more than 45 centimetres. The breed standard gives no official weight, so assess an adult by its build and body condition rather than a generic weight range.
- **Size variety:** A Poodle that has not yet had its final measurement may change size variety after an official measurement. In Sweden, final measurement is available from 15 months of age.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is a positive, sociable and quick-learning dog, but social confidence, activity levels and responses to noise vary between individuals and family lines.
- **Activity:** A Medium Poodle needs physical exercise and mental engagement every day. A fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog.
- **Coat:** The coat may be curly or corded and often sheds very little, but it requires thorough combing, bathing, drying and clipping.
- **Health checks for breeding:** Before mating, both parents must have a valid official prcd-PRA result, either from a DNA test or through valid recorded status as hereditarily clear.

## Appearance & Coat

The Medium Poodle is harmoniously built, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers. It should look alert and active without appearing heavy or low to the ground. Height is what distinguishes it from the Miniature and Standard Poodle.

The dense coat may be curly or form cords. It keeps growing and needs clipping, but the interval depends on coat length, style, daily life and how readily that particular coat mats. A short, practical trim will often reduce the workload, but it does not remove the need for grooming.

Comb all the way down to the skin, paying particular attention behind the ears, beneath a harness or collar, in the armpits and around the legs. Deal with small tangles before they tighten, and check the skin, ears and claws at the same time. Teach a puppy to stand still and accept touch in short, calm, rewarded sessions. This makes grooming at home and visits to a professional groomer easier.

Avoid a rigid timetable for bathing and clipping. Instead, check whether a comb passes through the entire coat, the skin stays clean and dry, and the dog can move freely. The dense coat needs to be dried thoroughly after bathing or swimming. Ask a vet to assess redness, an unpleasant smell or recurring skin or ear trouble rather than routinely plucking hair or using strong products.

Since the new breed standard took effect in 2024, the Swedish Kennel Club has registered 16 colour varieties, including solid and multicoloured dogs. This does not make merle an approved breeding colour. Under the Swedish registration rules, offspring from a merle-carrying parent cannot be registered, and such a mating also results in breeding restrictions.

Medium Poodles often release very little hair around the home because loose hairs can remain in the curls until the coat is combed. It is nevertheless misleading to call the breed non-shedding or allergy friendly. No dog breed is allergen-free, and an allergic person may react differently to different dogs. Anyone with allergies should therefore investigate their own reaction before buying, rather than relying on the breed name.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal describes the Medium Poodle as friendly, sociable, lively and easy to train. Many people are drawn to its combination of willingness to work with a handler and practical medium size. The ideal is not a guarantee that every dog will be confident with children, strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar environments.

Sweden's Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs (BPH) provides better evidence than claims that the breed is always easy. In the Swedish Poodle Club's Medium Poodle report from February 2026, 565 dogs had started a BPH. It is not a pass-or-fail test and does not tell you everything about an individual. It does, however, show responses to contact, play, surprises, noise and a person approaching in an unusual way.

Ask the breeder to put results in context. How do the parents and close relatives behave in everyday life? Do they seek contact without becoming intrusive? Can they settle, cope with sudden noises and recover after an unexpected event? Have several relatives been assessed, or is the opinion based on one dog? Questions like these say more than labels such as “clever”, “good with children” or “perfect for a first-time owner”.

A Medium Poodle may be quick to notice movement and noise, but barking tendency varies. Look at the parents' responses to sound and teach the dog to leave a window or door and settle in a quiet place. Activity combined with help to wind down gives a dog better prospects in a home where neighbouring sounds carry easily.

## Training & Exercise

A Medium Poodle needs to use both body and mind every day, but that need cannot be reduced to a set number of walking minutes. Age, health, fitness, surroundings and the individual dog's ability to settle determine a sensible level. A good daily routine includes walks with time to sniff, short training sessions and a task that involves thinking or searching.

Reward-based training suits the breed's willingness to cooperate and makes learning clear without causing fear. Start with attention, recall, staying with you, handling and resting in a chosen place. Increase difficulty gradually and use something the dog values as the reward: food, play, contact or permission to continue investigating something.

Scent work, tracking, retrieving, tricks, obedience, rally and agility are possible activities, not requirements. Vary physical exercise, problem-solving and recovery. A puppy needs shorter, simpler sessions, while a healthy adult can gradually be prepared for longer outings or more demanding sport.

Judge the balance of the daily routine, not just the amount of activity. If the dog can concentrate, recover and rest afterwards, the load is often better judged than when it remains constantly over-excited. Restlessness can mean the dog needs a task, but it can also mean it needs help to slow down. Give calm, sleep and settle training as much deliberate space as new tricks.

## Health

The formal health requirement when breeding Medium Poodles in Sweden concerns prcd-PRA, an inherited form of progressive retinal atrophy. Before mating, both parents must have official status through a DNA test or a valid hereditary-clear registration. A carrier may only be mated to a dog that is tested clear or hereditarily clear. A genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding.

A prcd-PRA result applies only to this genetic variant. It does not exclude other forms of PRA or other eye problems. The Swedish Poodle Club therefore also recommends repeat eye examinations for breeding dogs. The club also wants more Medium Poodles to be hip-scored and recommends that a dog with grade C hips be used sparingly and only with a hip-clear mate. These are recommendations, rather than the binding prcd-PRA requirement.

Ask to see dated official results and verify the dogs' identities rather than simply accepting that a litter is “health tested”. Ask about illness, mobility problems, eye trouble and temperament in the parents, full siblings, previous offspring and older relatives. One clear test does not sum up the health of an entire family.

Before buying a puppy, ask the breeder to explain:

- the prcd-PRA status of both parents and why the mating complies with the rules
- when the parents last had an eye examination and what hip results are available
- which other official results, such as BPH, exist for the parents and their close relatives
- which health problems have actually occurred in the family, even where no DNA test exists

Because the breed standard gives no ideal weight, assess an adult's body condition with both hands and eyes. You should be able to feel the ribs and see a waist that makes sense for the dog's build. Rapid weight change, lameness, a change in vision or recurring skin and ear problems are reasons to consult a vet.

## History & Origins

The FCI records France as the Poodle's country of origin. In the standard's historical note, the breed's French name, *caniche*, is linked to the French word for a female duck, and Poodles were used in wildfowling. The standard also describes the breed as descending from the Barbet, an older French water dog. That is the documented core; theories proposing one precise route of development across Europe should be treated with caution.

The Poodle developed into four sizes that share the same basic type. In Sweden, Poodles were divided into large and small varieties in 1932. The smaller variety was named the Medium Poodle in 1952, before Miniature and later Toy Poodles became further sizes. The Medium Poodle is therefore not a cross or a modern mixed breed, but a recognised size variety within the Poodle breed.

The breed's water-working past may inspire retrieving and swimming for dogs that enjoy them. It does not mean every Medium Poodle automatically likes water or must be trained for hunting. The modern breed is classified as a companion dog, and the individual dog's interest should guide the activity.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Medium Poodle combines close companionship, daily activity and regular coat care that cannot be skipped. The breed can live in a flat or a house, but the size of the home matters less than the dog's ability to settle, cope with noise and have its needs met outside.

In a family with children, an adult must take responsibility for their interactions. Children should learn not to disturb the dog while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a place of its own where it will be left alone. Choose a dog and breeder based on evidence of sound temperament, not on the assumption that medium size automatically makes a dog sturdy or safe with children.

Time alone must be taught in small steps once the dog feels secure. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog remains calm. Do not plan for a puppy or untrained adult to cope immediately with a full working day alone. Working hours, toilet breaks and help when needed must be arranged before the dog comes home.

The same individual approach applies to other animals. When introducing a cat, give the cat a safe escape area, prevent the dog from chasing and keep meetings short and controlled. Do not leave them alone together until both are relaxed and their interactions have remained stable over time. Living with other dogs or small animals depends on experience, chase and play drive, and the way introductions are managed, not just on breed.

Before buying, make sure you can provide three things throughout the dog's life: time for training and company, a plan for coat care, and the cost of professional clipping or your own equipment. Visit adult relatives if possible, ask to see how they settle and accept handling, and check the official health results. This lets you choose on evidence from the dogs themselves and your own routine, rather than an idealised image of the Medium Poodle.

Medium Poodle

The Poodle Club of UK

Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK)

Svenska Pudelklubben (Swedish Poodle Club)

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V.

Medium Poodles are medium‑sized, athletic dogs with a curly, low‑shedding coat that needs regular grooming. Highly intelligent and easy to train, they are lively outside but calm indoors. Affectionate, people‑focused, and versatile, they excel in family life and many dog sports.

Spirit of Ronja är en uppfödare av raserna Pudel, stor och Pudel, mellan med bas i Järfälla i Sverige.

Spirit of Ronja

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a distinct British breed, not a red-and-white variety of the English Springer Spaniel. Developed to flush and retrieve game, it is best suited to someone who wants to combine close family life with regular training and outdoor activity.

- The breed is medium-sized and compact; the approximate height at the withers is 48 cm for dogs and 46 cm for bitches.
- The breed standard permits only rich red and white. The coat should be straight or flat, silky and dense, with moderate feathering.
- A typical Welsh Springer Spaniel is friendly, cheerful, keen to work and active, although temperament varies between individuals.
- This breed needs more than walks around the block. Scent work, cooperation and opportunities to move through varied terrain are important parts of daily life.
- In Sweden, both parents must have an official hip-dysplasia result before mating for their puppies to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. A recorded result does not automatically mean clear hips.
- Life with children, other dogs and cats can work well, but the breed name is no guarantee. The individual dog, its upbringing, introductions and adult supervision all matter.

Above all, this is a breed for someone who enjoys doing things with their dog. A Welsh Springer must also learn to rest, wait and cope calmly with short periods alone; constant activity without the ability to settle does not create a balanced life.

## Appearance & Coat

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a strong, symmetrical and agile spaniel built for sustained work. Its body is compact without being heavy, and its movement should be powerful and ground-covering. Males stand at about 48 cm at the withers and females at about 46 cm, but sound construction and overall function matter more than an individual dog matching the figure to the nearest centimetre.

The colour distinguishes the breed clearly from other spaniels: the standard allows only rich red and white. The coat should lie straight or flat against the body and be silky and dense. There is feathering on the legs, ears and tail, but it should be moderate. A very profuse, curly or easily matted coat is not the functional coat described by the standard.

Coat care is manageable at home, but it needs to become routine. Pay particular attention to:

- ears and feathering after woodland walks, swimming and outings in long grass
- armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where tangles can start
- paws and the hair between the pads, especially during wet or snowy periods
- skin and ears if the dog starts scratching, shaking its head or smelling unusual

Brush when the coat begins to hold loose hair or form tangles, and remove debris before it becomes embedded. Dry the ears and coat after swimming, but do not clean a healthy ear canal routinely when there is no need. The Swedish Kennel Club gives three to four trims a year as a broad guide, while the breed club stresses that the need varies between dogs. Let coat growth, grip under the paws and airflow around the ears determine the timing. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed calendar.

## Temperament & Personality

A Welsh Springer Spaniel should be friendly, cheerful and very active without being aggressive or nervous. As a working spaniel, it is expected to cooperate, remain in contact and switch between activity and calm. This can make the breed rewarding to train, but it does not make every Welsh Springer easy in every home.

Many Welsh Springers want to stay close to their people and take part in daily life. Some greet strangers readily, while others need time before seeking contact. Excessive fear, constant stress or an inability to settle should not be dismissed as typical of the breed. The breed club also notes that relatively few dogs have undergone formal behavioural assessments, so sweeping claims about the temperament of the entire breed would be misleading.

When meeting a breeder, look beyond the phrase ‘friendly family dog’. Ask to meet the dam in an ordinary setting, and ask how the parents, siblings and previous offspring respond to unfamiliar places, people, sounds, rest and time alone. A dog that recovers promptly after something unexpected and can settle again provides more useful information about daily life than titles or an enthusiastic first greeting alone.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog. An adult should always be present with young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. A young, enthusiastic Welsh Springer may greet people physically and carry objects in its mouth despite friendly intentions. Children should not disturb the dog while it is eating, sleeping or choosing to move away.

## Training & Exercise

A Welsh Springer Spaniel needs physical exercise, scent work and cooperation every day, but there is no authoritative number of hours that suits every dog. A sound plan gives the dog enough to do without leaving it over-aroused, sore or unable to recover.

The breed's original work explains its training needs. A spaniel searches the ground in front of the handler, flushes game to create a shooting opportunity and then retrieves. In everyday life, the same traits appear as interest in scent, movement and objects. Priorities should therefore include:

- recall and voluntary check-ins, beginning in easy surroundings and progressing to greater distractions
- a long line wherever the dog cannot yet be allowed off lead safely
- steadiness: waiting calmly when something moves or other dogs are working
- carrying objects and giving them up without conflict
- a clear cue for a break and a quiet place where the dog can settle

Vary walks with search games, tracking, retrieving or another task that uses both scent and cooperation. Agility, rally and obedience may also suit the individual. The aim is not to collect activities, but to find a mix in which the dog can work with concentration and then rest.

Puppies and adolescents need short sessions, free movement on suitable ground and a gradual increase in load. Do not try to tire them out with long, repetitive distances or frequent jumping. For an adult, adjust the amount to fitness, health, temperature and the previous day's activity. Stiffness, unusually slow recovery, restlessness after exercise or poorer sleep are signs that the routine needs changing.

## Health

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is regarded as a comparatively healthy breed, but a prospective owner should pay particular attention to hips and eyes and ask about skin and ear problems in close relatives. Health screening reduces uncertainty; it cannot guarantee that an individual dog will remain healthy.

In Sweden, the breed is covered by level 2 of the Swedish Kennel Club's hip-dysplasia programme. Both parents must have an official hip result before mating for the puppies to be eligible for registration. Ask to see the actual results and also enquire about siblings and previous offspring. ‘Hip scored’ says only that the examination was completed, not what result the dog received.

Eye health must be kept separate from the Swedish hip rule. Swedish registration rules do not require an eye result for this breed, but the Welsh Springer Spaniel breed club encourages gonioscopy for breeding dogs. The examination assesses the drainage angle of the eye and is used in work to reduce glaucoma, a serious eye disease that the breed club monitors particularly closely. Ask about current eye examination and gonioscopy results, findings in close relatives and how the breeder weighed those results when planning the mating.

The breed club's health survey also identifies ears, itching, skin and eyes as areas to watch. This does not mean that every Welsh Springer will be affected. Check the dog after swimming and outings in wet or dense cover, and seek veterinary advice for recurring itching, redness, unpleasant smell, head shaking, pain or changes in vision.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Springer Spaniel developed from red-and-white spaniels in Wales and was recognised as a distinct breed in Britain in 1902. Written references to red-and-white spaniels in Wales date back to the fourteenth century, but older origin stories should not be made more precise than the evidence allows.

The dogs were used chiefly for hunting. The word ‘springer’ refers to flushing game from cover, not to the breed being a variety of the English Springer Spaniel. The modern breed's work includes searching, flushing and retrieving in close cooperation with the handler.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1963, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1965. The Swedish Welsh Springer Spaniel Club was founded in 1980. Today the breed is used for hunting and tracking wounded game as well as being an active companion and sporting dog, but its working purpose remains the key to understanding its needs and behaviour.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Springer Spaniel can live in a house or flat if daily life provides enough activity, recovery time and access to good walking areas. A large garden does not replace shared training, and a flat is not a problem in itself. You do, however, need to plan for a wet coat, grit, seeds and muddy paws after an active life outdoors.

Teach the dog to be alone gradually, beginning with very short periods when it feels secure and has settled. A young puppy should not be left alone, and even a well-trained adult normally copes with only a few hours alone in a day. Swedish guidance that dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day describes a toileting and exercise interval, not a target for time alone. Arrange help if workdays or travel keep you away longer than the dog can manage calmly.

The breed can live with other dogs, but choose companions and introductions according to the individuals involved. Greater care is needed with cats and small animals because a flushing dog may react to sudden movement. Early familiarisation can help, but do not base safety on the assumption that this is a ‘nice breed’. Use gates, separate resting areas and supervised meetings until you know how the animals behave together.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to obtain clear answers to these questions:

- What are the hip results of both parents and their close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations and gonioscopy, and what findings occur in the family?
- How do they cope with new places, people, rest and short periods alone?
- What hunting drive, responsiveness and ability to settle have previous offspring shown?
- What coat care and activities are part of the breeder's own dogs' daily lives?

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is best suited to someone who wants an active working partner rather than a dog content to tag along passively. If you can provide scent work, clear training, calm recovery and plenty of shared time, the breed's willingness to work can find a constructive place in family life.

Welsh Springer Spaniel

The Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of UK

Medium, athletic red-and-white spaniel from Wales, bred as a steady gundog. Affectionate, people-focused and often strongly bonded to one person. Needs substantial daily exercise, training and mental work. Sensitive, generally healthy, with a weatherproof coat that enjoys mud and water.

Småskalig uppfödning av Welsh Springer Spaniel i hemmiljö.

Ghillsbay

## Quick Facts

The Flat Coated Retriever is a recognised British retrieving gundog in FCI group 8. The breed was developed to search for and retrieve shot game on land and in water, so cooperation, the desire to retrieve and the ability to work in varied terrain are central traits – including in dogs that live mainly as companions.

- The preferred height is 58–61 cm for males and 56–58 cm for females.
- The preferred weight in good condition is 27–36 kg for males and 25–32 kg for females. These figures describe the breed standard's ideal, not what every adult dog will weigh or measure.
- The accepted colours are black and liver.
- The breed ideal is a positive, friendly, alert and responsive dog. Energy, intensity and the ability to settle vary between individuals and families.
- A Flat Coated Retriever needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation every day. Long walks alone do not replace meaningful tasks.
- Tumours are an important health concern in the breed. No single test can show that a puppy or breeding line is free from future cancer risk.

## Appearance & Coat

A Flat Coated Retriever should be powerful without being cumbersome and racy without looking slight. Functional balance matters more than heavy bone, an excessive coat or a high body weight. Movement should be free, flowing and true when viewed from the front and rear.

The head is long and well moulded, with a flat, moderately broad skull and only a slight stop. The jaws should be long and strong enough for retrieving work. The body has a deep, fairly broad chest and a short, strong loin. The tail is carried gaily but not much above the level of the back.

The coat is dense, fine to medium in texture and as flat as possible. The legs and tail have clear feathering when the dog is fully mature. Only black and liver are included in the standard; yellow does occur but is not an accepted show colour.

Coat care should follow the dog's actual coat and way of life, not a fixed calendar. Comb down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and through the feathering. After swimming or working in water and dense cover, dry the dog and check for tangles, irritated skin, seeds, small wounds and damaged pads. Keep the ears dry and check them if there is an odour, redness or itching. Trimming can keep the feet and feathering functional, but the coat should not be shaped into a heavy or exaggerated outline.

## Temperament & Personality

A Flat Coated Retriever should be confident, positive, friendly, alert and responsive, but the breed standard is a breeding ideal – not a guarantee for every individual. A puppy buyer should therefore assess the parents, adult relatives and how the breeder follows the dogs' everyday behaviour, rather than accepting that the breed is simply cheerful.

In the Swedish Kennel Club's BPH analysis of 209 Swedish-born dogs, the breed was generally perceived as confident, energetic, curious, playful and sociable. The same analysis stresses variation within the breed and notes that high curiosity and quick reactions may also be linked to difficulty settling. The material is a description of participating dogs, not a prediction for a puppy. Look for both a willingness to work and the ability to recover: can the adult dogs greet people without losing all self-control, accept handling calmly and rest when nothing is happening?

The breed is often sociable, but suitability with children, dogs or cats should never be assumed from the breed name. A strong, enthusiastic dog can knock over a small child without intending harm. A responsible adult should always be present with a young child and dog, and the dog needs an undisturbed place to rest. Introductions to dogs and cats should be gradual. Previous experience, interest in chasing and the ability to disengage on cue matter more than a general breed description.

## Training & Exercise

A Flat Coated Retriever needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no credible universal quota in minutes or hours. The right level depends on age, health, fitness, the intensity of the activity and how the dog recovers. A good day combines movement, scent work, retrieving, cooperation and undisturbed rest.

Retrieving and searching often provide more than simply extending a walk. Dummies, simple marked retrieves, close searches, tracking, gundog training or the Swedish Funktionsbeskrivning Retriever assessment can provide outlets for the traits the breed was developed to use. Field trials and practical hunting suit owners who want to develop the work further, but every owner can build everyday tasks in which the dog searches, carries, delivers and waits for a cue.

Reward-based, progressive training suits a quick and cooperative retriever. Prioritise these skills early:

- engagement and loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full strength;
- recall and stopping even when something moves or smells exciting;
- calm greetings with all four paws on the ground;
- carrying and releasing objects without conflict;
- steadiness, settling and the ability to come down after activity;
- cooperative handling of paws, ears, mouth and coat.

Water work can be a useful outlet, but an interest in water is not the same as knowing how to swim. Start in shallow water, show the dog a safe way out, avoid fast-flowing or very cold water and never leave the dog unsupervised. Growing dogs need varied loads built up gradually; repeated sharp stops, high jumps and one-sided ball throwing are not a shortcut to good fitness.

## Health

Tumours are the most important breed-specific health issue for a puppy buyer to understand. The Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club describe an overrepresentation of several tumour types, and the Flat Coated Retriever has a documented predisposition to histiocytic sarcoma, among other conditions. This does not mean that every dog will become ill, but the risk cannot be dismissed because of a DNA test, a normal veterinary certificate or young, healthy parents.

Ask for the ages and causes of death of parents, grandparents, full and half-siblings and dogs from previous litters. Ask which diagnoses were confirmed by a vet and how the breeder uses information about older relatives. In your own dog, a new or growing lump, persistent lameness, unexplained weight loss or a clear change in appetite and energy should be assessed by a vet. These signs have many possible causes and should not be self-diagnosed as cancer.

For offspring to be registered in Sweden, the Swedish Kennel Club requires both parents to have an official hip status before mating. A known status means that a result exists – not automatically that the hips are graded A or B. Check the actual grade and the results of close relatives. Elbow screening is an important check that the breed club would like to see in more dogs, but it is not a separate registration requirement for the breed under the 2026 rules.

Eye screening is not a formal Swedish Kennel Club requirement for the breed either. The current recommendation from the Swedish Flatcoated Retriever Club is for breeding dogs to have an eye certificate no more than two years old at the time of mating. The club also recommends gonioscopy where possible and avoiding a mating that doubles a known degree of pectinate ligament dysplasia, PLD. Ask to see the date, diagnoses and complete result – the words 'eye tested' are not enough.

Renal dysplasia, RD, occurs in a small number of serious cases. There is no validated DNA test for RD in the Flat Coated Retriever, so a commercial test result should not be used as proof that a dog or mating is clear. A known diagnosis in close relatives and the breeder's openness are more relevant here.

## History & Origins

The Flat Coated Retriever was developed in Great Britain as a retrieving gundog for work after the shot. Its task was to search for and retrieve shot birds and small game on land and in water, which explains the breed's combination of scenting ability, cooperation, carrying and sustained movement.

The FCI recognised the breed definitively in 1954 and places it among the retrievers that are subject to a working trial. The Flat Coated Retriever arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Precise accounts of which types of dog were crossed at each stage of its development vary between historical sources; the secure and practically important point is that the modern breed should still function as a retriever, rather than merely have a retriever-like appearance.

## Living with the Breed

The Flat Coated Retriever is best suited to someone who wants to live with an active working retriever and who also intends to train calm behaviour. The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, but it is not automatically easy: its size, speed and exuberant greetings require planning, and the need for cooperation continues throughout life.

Flat living can work if going outside is straightforward, the dog receives meaningful activity and the household trains for noise, greetings in shared spaces and rest. A garden does not replace walks or shared work. Time alone must be built gradually from short, secure periods; a young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs vary in what they can manage. If the working day regularly involves a long absence, a reliable plan for company and exercise is needed before buying the dog.

Before choosing a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What are the parents used for, and how do they behave during activity, handling and rest?
- What official hip grade does each parent have, and are there elbow results and a history of joint health in close relatives?
- When was the latest eye examination, what did the full certificate show, and are gonioscopy results available?
- How old were close relatives when they died, what were the causes, and which tumour diagnoses or RD cases are known?
- How does the breeder follow the health, temperament and working ability of previous litters over time?

The right home gains a willing, sociable and versatile working dog. A mismatch often occurs when the friendly breed ideal is taken to mean that the dog will cope with children, other animals, long days alone and a life without real tasks by itself.

Flat Coated Retriever

The Flatcoated Retriever Society of Great Britain

The Swedish Kennel Club (Svenska Kennelklubben)

The Norwegian Kennel Club (Norsk Kennel Klub)

The Danish Kennel Club (Dansk Kennel Klub)

Flat Coated Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic gundogs with sleek black or liver coats and friendly, puppy‑like attitudes. Energetic, people‑oriented, and highly trainable, they need plenty of exercise, positive training, close family life, and attentive health care.

Söklustens är en uppfödare av rasen Flatcoated retriever med bas i Tullinge i Sverige. Uppfödningen under kennelnamnet går tillbaka till 2002. Hundar från uppfödningen har genom åren meriterat sig inom bland annat viltspår och rallylydnad.

Söklustens

## Quick Facts

The Standard Schnauzer is a medium-sized, active and watchful dog from Germany. This page concerns the medium-sized breed known in Swedish simply as Schnauzer. The name is not an umbrella term for the Miniature Schnauzer, Standard Schnauzer and Giant Schnauzer; these are three separate breeds with their own standards and partly different health concerns.

- The FCI places the Standard Schnauzer in Group 2 and lists Germany as its country of origin.
- The standard gives a height of 45–50 cm and a weight of 14–20 kg for both dogs and bitches.
- The body is strong, compact and approximately square.
- The recognised colours are pure black with black undercoat and pepper and salt.
- The coat is double, dense and wiry and needs regular combing and trimming.
- The breed ideal combines a lively temperament with thoughtful calm, playfulness, loyalty and vigilance.

The Standard Schnauzer is best suited to someone who wants to train and do things with their dog, while also teaching it to settle. A first-time owner can do well if daily life includes reward-based training, coat care and clear routines. The breed name cannot, however, guarantee how easy an individual dog will be. The behaviour of the parents and adult relatives is more informative.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Schnauzer is unmistakably medium-sized: 45–50 cm and 14–20 kg apply to both sexes. It should be more compact than slender, with height at the withers roughly equal to body length. The long head, beard and bushy eyebrows create the characteristic expression.

The coat consists of a dense undercoat and a hard, close-lying topcoat. The topcoat should be wiry rather than soft, wavy or silky. A black Standard Schnauzer should be pure black, including the undercoat. Pepper and salt can range from dark iron grey to silver grey, but should have a harmonious dark mask. Clearly light markings on the head, chest or legs are undesirable under the standard.

Coat care is a regular part of life with the breed. As a practical guide, the Swedish Kennel Club suggests trimming about four times a year and combing at least weekly. Trimming removes old topcoat so that the wiry texture can be maintained. Owners who clip the coat still need to comb through the beard, eyebrows, belly and leg furnishings and prevent mats next to the skin. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how dogs from that particular line are groomed; a practical lesson is more useful than a generic timetable.

A well-kept, trimmed Standard Schnauzer often sheds little loose hair, but the breed is not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in skin cells, saliva, urine and substances from the sebaceous glands, among other sources. Low shedding therefore cannot predict how an allergic person will react. Seek medical advice before buying a dog instead of relying on claims based on breed alone.

## Temperament & Personality

The Standard Schnauzer should be lively, good-natured, playful and watchful while also capable of calm. It is often attentive to people, sounds and movement around the home. The breed's earlier work as a farm and guard dog is consequently more apparent in some individuals than in others.

The Swedish Kennel Club's current BPH analysis, produced after the breed passed 200 assessments, is particularly useful because it shows the variation behind the breed description. The dataset includes 284 Standard Schnauzers assessed through BPH, but only about 12 per cent of Swedish-born dogs born from 2010 to 2023 took part. The results therefore describe the participating dogs, not every member of the breed. The group includes dogs that do not greet a stranger and dogs that greet intensely. Interest in play also varies considerably. Few showed threatening behaviour towards a stranger, while responses varied more when a disguised person approached in an unusual way.

For a prospective puppy owner, the conclusion is practical: do not ask only whether the parents are “nice”. Ask to see how they receive visitors, accept handling, recover after a surprise and move from activity to rest. Their BPH or MH records can also be useful, but BPH is a description, not a test with a pass or fail result.

The breed standard says that the Standard Schnauzer should be vigilant without being noisy. That is a breeding ideal, not a promise of silence. In a home where sound travels easily, reward calm behaviour around the door, hallway and windows from the start, and teach the dog what to do after it has noticed a sound.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Schnauzer needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but its needs cannot be calculated with a fixed number of minutes. A good routine alternates walks, free movement in a secure place, scent work, everyday training, play and recovery. Judge the outcome: the dog should be able to work willingly, remain responsive to its handler and then settle, rather than becoming increasingly overstimulated.

Training should be positive, reward-based and progressive. Make the desired behaviour clear and adapt the reward to the individual; food, play and the opportunity to sniff vary in value from one dog to another. Short sessions can be useful when a young dog loses focus, but there is no universal time limit. Increase the difficulty only when the dog succeeds in the easier situation.

The breed's background as a rat catcher makes it sensible to take reactions to movement and an interest in chasing seriously. It does not mean that every Standard Schnauzer chases to the same degree or has a particular recall “score”. Practise recall with gradually stronger distractions and use a long line or enclosed area until you know how your dog responds to wildlife, cats, cyclists and runners. A safety measure is not a training failure.

Scent work, tracking, rally obedience and other co-operative activities can suit the breed well, but choose activities according to the dog's body, motivation and ability to recover. The aim is a sustainable routine, not to fill the diary with as many activities as possible.

## Health

The Standard Schnauzer is described as a broadly healthy breed, but a puppy buyer should pay particular attention to hips, diagnoses in close relatives and the breeder's openness. The current Swedish breed strategy also monitors gastrointestinal problems, mammary and skin tumours, and claw injuries.

Hip dysplasia, or HD, has a complex background in which both heredity and environment play a part. A and B denote normal hips, C mild dysplasia, D moderate dysplasia and E severe dysplasia. A radiograph shows the shape of the joint, not automatically whether the dog is in pain. Even two dogs graded A or B can produce offspring with HD, particularly when other close relatives have poorer hips.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for a known hip score on the Standard Schnauzer. This should not be confused with the breed strategy's monitoring of HD and its aim to increase the number of screened dogs. Ask for the parents' official results and look at siblings and previous offspring as well. This gives you a broader basis for judging the results without misrepresenting a recommendation as a registration rule.

The health surveys underlying parts of the breed strategy received 121 and 303 responses respectively. They identify issues the breed club needs to monitor, but do not provide reliable odds for the whole population. Ask the breeder about diagnosed gastrointestinal disease, mammary or skin tumours and recurring claw injuries in the parents, siblings and previous litters. That is more relevant than a long list of eye, heart or DNA tests borrowed from the Miniature or Giant Schnauzer.

Temperament information is also part of the overall picture. A BPH result can provide an indication about a parent, but it should be considered alongside everyday behaviour, relatives and the breeder's objectives.

## History & Origins

The Standard Schnauzer developed in southern Germany as a robust farm and stable dog. It was at home around horses, watched over its surroundings and caught rats quickly, earning the dog type the popular name “Rattler”. When the Pinscher-Schnauzer club was founded in 1895, the breed was entered as the wire-haired Pinscher.

The Swedish breed strategy states that the word “Schnauzer” appeared in literature in 1842 and probably refers to the characteristic moustache. Names subsequently changed. In the Swedish stud book the breed was called the German wire-haired Pinscher in 1913, Schnauzer from 1928 and Medium Schnauzer from 1942. In 2003, the Swedish breed name returned to Schnauzer.

This is the securely documented core. There are further stories about the breed's past, but they are less well supported and are not needed to understand today's Standard Schnauzer.

## Living with the Breed

The Standard Schnauzer can live in a house or flat if it receives daily activity, rest and help in coping with its surroundings. In a flat, how easily sounds carry matters more than floor area: notice how the dog responds to the front door, lift and neighbours, and teach a calm alternative to continued alerting. Safe and straightforward access to walks makes everyday life considerably easier.

An adult must supervise interactions with children. Children and dogs should not be left alone together, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. A robust body does not oblige a dog to tolerate being clung to, interrupted sleep or rough play.

Time alone is introduced gradually once the dog feels secure. A young puppy cannot be left alone, while a trained adult may manage a few hours. Increase the time according to the dog's behaviour and step back if it shows distress or cannot settle. A breed label cannot supply a safe time limit.

The same caution applies to other animals. The ratting background can make small, fast-moving animals difficult for some individuals. When introducing a cat, prevent the dog from chasing, keep meetings short and always give the cat escape routes. How quickly the animals can have more freedom depends on how calm they are together, not how long they have lived under the same roof.

Before buying, it is particularly useful to check:

- that advice about size, health and daily life concerns the Standard Schnauzer rather than another schnauzer breed;
- the parents' registration numbers, official hip results and the health of close relatives;
- BPH or MH descriptions alongside the parents' everyday behaviour;
- how the breeder works with sociability, vigilance, recovery and co-operation;
- which grooming routine the puppy is used to and who can teach it to you;
- how gastrointestinal problems, tumours and claw injuries have been followed up in previous litters.

A good match is a home that appreciates an alert dog that enjoys working, has time for coat care and can balance activity with calm. Anyone seeking a dog guaranteed to be quiet, allergy-safe or uncomplicated should look beyond the Standard Schnauzer's handsome beard.

Standard Schnauzer

The Schnauzer Club of Great Britain

Svenska Schnauzer Pinscherklubben (Swedish Schnauzer Club)

Pinscher Schnauzer Klub (Germany)

Medium, robust farm‑bred dog with a wiry low‑shedding coat in pepper‑and‑salt or black. Intelligent, watchful and protective yet affectionate and playful. Needs daily exercise, mental work, early socialization and regular grooming; generally healthy and long‑lived.

Ankiris

## Quick Facts

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the United States as a herding and working dog and suits people who want to train and work with their dog every day. It is quick, responsive and versatile, but its working drive and guarding and herding instincts mean it is rarely suited to someone primarily looking for an undemanding companion.

- The breed belongs to FCI Group 1 and was developed to work sheep and cattle on farms and ranches.
- Desirable height at the withers is 51–58 cm for males and 46–53 cm for females. The breed standard gives no ideal weight.
- The coat is medium-length, weather-resistant and has an undercoat. The base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red, with or without white markings and tan points.
- The tail may be naturally long or short. Tail docking is prohibited in Sweden.
- An Australian Shepherd needs daily physical activity, problem-solving, co-operation and opportunities to settle.
- For Swedish breeding dogs, official hip dysplasia (HD) status and known mental status through an MH assessment are key checks. MH records reactions; it is not a pass-or-fail test.

## Appearance & Coat

The Australian Shepherd is a medium-sized, well-balanced and mobile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. It should be muscular and solid without becoming heavy or clumsy, because its construction must allow quick changes of direction and sustained work. The standard specifies desirable height but no ideal weight. Assess an adult by its proportions, body condition, movement and function rather than relying on a weight range said to come from the standard.

The coat is straight to wavy, medium-length and weather-resistant. The amount of undercoat varies with factors including climate and season. A correct coat needs regular combing and closer checks during shedding, but not an identical weekly schedule for every dog. Feel through the coat to the skin and pay particular attention to areas where friction can easily cause tangles, such as behind the ears and in the feathering. Check the skin, paws and nails at the same time after work in woodland or rough ground.

The four base colours are blue merle, black, red merle and red. All may occur with or without white markings and tan points. Eyes may be brown, blue or amber, including combinations, flecks and marbling. Different-coloured eyes are therefore permitted and, by themselves, say nothing about the dog's temperament.

The tail may be naturally long or naturally short. The latter is often called NBT, natural bobtail, and must not be confused with a docked tail. The Swedish Kennel Club registers the breed with a tail designation showing whether the dog has a full-length tail, a bobtail, a tail shorter than normal, no tail or a docked tail. For a puppy buyer, the registration entry is better evidence than guessing from a photograph.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Australian Shepherd should be an intelligent working dog with strong herding and guarding instincts, an even disposition and a good-natured manner. It may be reserved when first meeting strangers, but breed-typical neutrality is not the same as fear or aggression. The Swedish Australian Shepherd Club therefore emphasises that neutral is a clearer term than reserved.

There is considerable variation between individuals and families. Some dogs work very intensely in relation to people and their surroundings, while others are more balanced in everyday life; the strength of herding, guarding, sound reactions and social interest can also differ. Labels such as working line or show line are not enough to predict a puppy's temperament. Look instead at the parents, mature close relatives, the breeder's goals, working records and documented mental assessments.

As a herding dog, the breed uses its body and movement to control livestock. This can produce a strong interest in things that move. In daily life, a dog may want to follow, stop or control running children, bicycles, joggers or other animals. This is a possible breed trait, not something every Australian Shepherd does and not an excuse to let the behaviour continue. Distance, a lead or barrier, a trained alternative and rewards for checking in make the situation safer while the skill is being taught.

MH is particularly useful when comparing breeding dogs and relatives. The assessment records how a dog reacted to contact, handling, play, surprises, noise and gunshots, among other things. It cannot on its own predict how a puppy will develop, and it does not measure the whole of working ability. Read the full record and ask how the dog behaves and recovers in ordinary environments.

## Training & Exercise

An Australian Shepherd needs both movement and tasks involving scent work, problem-solving and co-operation every day, but a fixed number of hours does not describe what an individual dog needs. A calm woodland walk, tracking or searching, everyday obedience, herding, working trials, agility and other well-planned training place different demands on the dog. Adapt volume and intensity to age, health, previous conditioning and recovery.

A manageable daily life requires more than making the dog physically tired. Prioritise the following from an early age:

- engagement and responsiveness even when something is moving nearby,
- recall, first practised in an easy setting and secured with a long line when needed,
- loose-lead walking, handling and the ability to wait,
- a clear transition between activity and calm,
- the ability to disengage from following or controlling children, vehicles and animals.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and adapted to the individual. The breed often learns quickly, which also means accidentally rewarded habits can become established quickly. Make the desired behaviour easy to choose, increase difficulty gradually and do not use fear, threats or physical punishment.

Puppies and young dogs need movement, environmental experience, rest and short learning sessions, not an adult dog's workload or an exercise schedule based on a fixed number of minutes. The aim is a dog that can work with commitment, remain responsive and then settle. If activity increases while the dog finds it harder to sleep, relax or cope with everyday stimuli, the plan needs reviewing rather than simply adding more speed.

## Health

For a Swedish puppy buyer, the crucial distinction is between binding registration rules, breed-club recommendations and optional DNA tests. Under the current Swedish Kennel Club rules, official hip dysplasia status is required before mating and, for resident Swedish breeding dogs covered by the rules, known mental status through a complete MH assessment is also required. Known status does not automatically mean a good hip result or a desirable mental profile; check the actual result.

In its breed-specific breeding strategy, SASK generally recommends hip grades A or B and an eye examination for breeding dogs. The club also highlights the value of checking hip results in close relatives because the breed has no hip index. Elbow dysplasia (ED) screening is voluntary and is not a specific registration requirement for the breed. Ask the breeder to show what was actually examined, on which dog, on what date and with what result rather than accepting the phrase health tested.

DNA tests are available for CEA, HSF4 and MDR1, among others, but SASK does not prescribe one universal panel for every mating. Each test concerns a particular gene or risk variant. A clear HSF4 result, for example, does not rule out every form of cataract and does not replace a clinical eye examination. Relevant tests are selected according to documented risks in the family and the planned mating.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, can affect how certain medicines are distributed in the body and reach the brain. An individual dog's status cannot be determined from its appearance. If the dog has been tested, the result should be recorded in its veterinary notes; medicine selection and dosage always belong with the veterinarian.

Two merle dogs should not be mated. The combination can produce puppies with two copies of the merle variant and an increased risk of deafness and visual or eye abnormalities. The naturally short NBT tail has a different genetic basis. SASK recommends caution with matings in which both parents carry the NBT variant as well, but the two issues should not be confused.

## History & Origins

Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd as it is known today was developed in the United States. The FCI standard links the name to Basque shepherds who came to the United States from Australia during the nineteenth century. The precise contribution of older herding dogs is less certain, so a detailed account of a fixed breed recipe should be treated as theory.

American sheep and cattle farmers continued selecting dogs for versatility, independent work, intelligence and herding ability. After the Second World War, awareness of the breed grew as Western riding, rodeos, horse shows, films and television reached a wider audience. The modern breed's American ranch background explains both the paradox in its name and why function remains central to its description.

## Living with the Breed

The Australian Shepherd is best suited to a routine that includes planned activity, learning and recovery even during ordinary working weeks. A large garden does not replace shared tasks, and competition ambitions are unnecessary if the dog still has a meaningful and varied life. Anyone wanting a dog that mainly joins shorter walks should choose a less demanding type.

With children, an adult should always be present, the dog needs an undisturbed resting place and the household needs a plan for high-energy play. Interrupt and create distance before the dog begins to fixate on or control movement. Children should not be responsible for situations in which a quick, strong dog may react to its surroundings.

Living with dogs or cats depends on the individuals and the introduction, not the breed name. Find out about the parents' and the particular dog's history. Begin calmly with separate safe spaces, a barrier and a lead, give the cat an unobstructed escape route and progress only when both animals can remain relaxed. Small pets may require permanent physical separation.

The breed can live in a flat if it gets enough time outdoors, meaningful tasks and rest, and the owner can manage reactions to noise. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners need to prevent noises in shared areas from prompting the dog to guard and bark. Time alone should be trained gradually and judged by the individual dog's behaviour. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is an outing guideline, not a measure of how long an individual is comfortable being alone.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the parents' registration numbers, hip results, full MH records, dates and results of eye examinations, and relevant DNA results. Also check the tail designation and working achievements, and ask how mature close relatives behave around people, noise, movement, rest and recovery. Those details say more about what daily life with the dog is likely to be like than colour, eyes or whether the breeder calls the dogs working-line or show-line.

Australian Shepherd

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

The Australian Shepherd is a medium, athletic herding dog, highly intelligent and energetic. Loyal and people oriented, it bonds closely and needs substantial daily exercise, training, and mental work. Its striking, weather resistant coat and varied eye colors add to its appeal.

Jag som står bakom Arrowtails heter Frida Rendert. 2015 fick jag hem min första aussie och har sedan dess varit frälst på rasen och ivrigt deltagit i rasklubbens arbete; jag har gått i rasparaden och stått i rasmonter, bidragit med foton till aussietidningen, åkt på föreläsningar i rasklubbens regi.

Arrowtail

## Quick Facts

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a British, compact terrier with great strength for its size. It is a distinct recognised breed, not the same breed as the American Staffordshire Terrier, Bull Terrier or American Bully. With the right owner, it can be a close and active companion, but the decision should be based on the individual dog’s temperament, behaviour around dogs and the family’s ability to manage a strong, quick dog—not on nicknames or stereotypes.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with roots in the Midlands and Staffordshire
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 3, Terriers
- **Height at the withers:** 35.5–40.5 cm for both males and females
- **Weight:** 12.7–17 kg for males and 11–15.4 kg for females
- **Coat:** short, smooth and close
- **Best suited to:** an owner who wants to use reward-based training, can read canine body language and has a considered plan for encounters with dogs, exercise and recovery

The breed standard describes an intelligent, affectionate, courageous and reliable dog. This is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Early environment, health, experience and inherited traits all affect daily life. A first-time owner can do well if prepared to train everyday control and prevent difficult situations.

## Appearance & Coat

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier should combine muscular power with balance, agility and free movement. The chest is broad, the body compact and the head short and deep with a broad skull. More weight does not mean better breed type. Height and weight should be in proportion, and a dog that becomes too heavy loses the mobility expected of the breed.

The standard gives a height of 35.5–40.5 cm at the withers. Males should weigh 12.7–17 kg and females 11–15.4 kg. The upper end of the weight range is not a goal in itself; body condition, muscle, sex and build must be considered together.

The coat is short, smooth and close. Remove loose hair and bathe according to the dog’s needs rather than a fixed schedule. Itching, repeated redness or paw licking should not be dismissed as an ordinary coat issue.

Accepted colours are red, fawn, white, black or blue, with or without white, and any shade of brindle with or without white. Liver and black and tan are absolutely undesirable under the standard. Blue is an accepted colour, but colour should never take priority over health, temperament and a carefully planned mating.

The breed has a relatively short head, but breathing should be free and quiet. Repeated snuffling, obvious breathing noise during moderate activity or heavy snoring during sleep should not be explained away as normal for the breed. Function determines whether the head and airways work well.

## Temperament & Personality

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is expected to be affectionate with people, courageous and mentally stable, but Swedish behavioural assessments show wide individual variation. A dog may be open and energetic, more reserved or easily overwhelmed. Everyday examples from parents and close relatives are therefore more useful than claims about how the breed “always” behaves.

An intense, prolonged greeting does not prove secure sociability; it may also reflect high arousal or social stress. The dog needs to be able to settle again and opt out of contact. Aggression towards people and extreme shyness are not part of the breed ideal and should be taken seriously.

A dog’s attitude towards people does not show how it will behave with other dogs. The breed’s history and the variation described by the Swedish breed club make it sensible to choose playmates carefully and not assume that an adult dog will enjoy an unfamiliar group or dog park. Not every Staffordshire Bull Terrier is aggressive towards dogs; actual play style, ability to disengage, level of tension and experience should guide decisions—not rules based on sex or a breed label.

BPH, MH and the Swedish mental index can provide useful information about parents and relatives, but they do not predict a puppy’s entire personality. Ask how the dogs react to surprises, people, handling, gunshot sounds and encounters with dogs, and how quickly they recover.

The nickname “nanny dog” is not a safety assessment. Even a very people-oriented dog can become stressed, be in pain or react quickly. Interactions between children and dogs must therefore always be supervised by an attentive adult who can read the situation and intervene in time.

## Training & Exercise

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs regular movement, mental activity and recovery, but there is no single exercise duration that suits every dog. A good week may include walks in different environments, free movement in a safe area, scent work, short training sessions and quiet days. The amount should reflect age, fitness, health, temperature, intensity and recovery.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s energy and willingness to cooperate. Prioritise skills that make daily life safe: walking with a loose lead, recall or use of a long line, passing other dogs, leaving an activity, greeting calmly, waiting, accepting handling and settling. The aim is not blind obedience but a dog that can make good choices even when excited.

Social training does not mean that the dog must play with everyone. A few carefully chosen canine relationships, clear breaks and controlled encounters often provide better conditions than a chaotic dog park. Stop if bodies become stiff, play becomes one-sided, intensity only increases or one dog tries to get away. Practise calm presence at a distance instead of always approaching.

Puppies should be allowed to explore, play and develop body awareness without long, repetitive or forced exercise. For adult dogs, activities such as nose work, obedience, rally obedience and adapted agility can provide both mental work and cooperation. Increase physical load gradually.

In hot weather or during strenuous activity, let the dog’s breathing and recovery guide you. Seek veterinary care if breathing becomes clearly laboured or noisy, the dog becomes unsteady or cannot return to normal breathing. Such signs should not be accepted as part of the breed’s appearance.

## Health

Allergies and atopic skin disease are among the most important current health priorities for Staffordshire Bull Terriers in Sweden. Do not only ask whether a parent has a test result; ask about itching, ear trouble, paw problems and other skin issues in parents, siblings and previous offspring. Recurrent skin symptoms can affect welfare and daily life for a long time.

The Swedish breed club’s current work also highlights joints and movement—particularly hips, elbows and knees—as well as eyes, teeth, bite and breathing. Corneal injuries and misdirected eyelashes occur, and incorrectly positioned canine teeth can damage tissue in the mouth. Ask to see how the parents move and breathe during ordinary activity, not only when posed.

Health requirements and recommendations are not the same. The Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules for 2026 contain no Staffordshire Bull Terrier-specific requirement for a particular parental health-test result. The breed club’s current breeding strategy nevertheless recommends that both parents have results for hips, elbows, eyes, L2Hga and HC, as well as known mental status through BPH or MH. Buyers should request the actual results even when they are not a condition of registration.

L2Hga and HC are two separate recessively inherited diseases with DNA tests. The Swedish Kennel Club records L2Hga results centrally at health programme level 1. A carrier is not affected by the relevant recessive variant, but may only be mated to a clear dog. A dog that has inherited the disease variant from both parents should not be used for breeding. Check the dog’s identity, test date and results for the proposed mating. A DNA test says nothing about allergies, joints, breathing or general health.

In its current breeding strategy, the breed club advises against blue-to-blue and white-to-white matings. This is advice about breeding combinations, not proof that every blue or white dog is ill. Never choose a puppy primarily for an unusual colour or accept poorer documentation to obtain a particular appearance.

## History & Origins

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier developed in the English Midlands and the Staffordshire area from older bull-and-terrier-type dogs. Its background includes the era’s bloody animal baiting and dog fighting. When baiting tethered animals was prohibited in 1835, dog fighting continued illegally, while the dogs also lived closely with their owners. This history should be described openly, but it does not make every modern dog aggressive and should not be used to romanticise risky behaviour.

Work towards a consistent breed gathered pace during the 20th century. The British Kennel Club recognised the Staffordshire Bull Terrier on 25 May 1935. This laid the foundation for a written standard and more organised breeding focused on a strong, agile and stable terrier. The first known import to Sweden arrived in 1962.

Today’s breed should be judged by present-day function, health and temperament. Its history explains why power, stamina and encounters with dogs deserve particular attention, but it never replaces assessment of the individual dog.

## Living with the Breed

Staffordshire Bull Terriers can live with children, but no dog is a babysitter. An adult should manage contact, the dog must be left undisturbed when sleeping and eating, and both child and dog need to be able to leave the situation. Children should not climb on, restrain or take things from the dog.

Living with another dog, a cat or smaller animals must be assessed individually. A history of peaceful coexistence is useful information but not a future guarantee. Introduce animals gradually, use physical separation when nobody can supervise, give a cat high or separate escape routes, and interrupt chasing, fixation or escalating arousal early.

Apartment living can work if the dog’s needs for activity, toilet breaks and recovery are met and the owner can manage noise and encounters in stairwells and entrances. Build up alone time gradually and observe the dog’s behaviour, ideally with a camera. There is no single duration that suits the whole breed. In Sweden, a closed crate must not be used for routine confinement or as an ordinary solution to problems with being left alone.

Before buying, ask for more than a list of test names:

- Check the dog’s registered breed and pedigree so that it is not confused with other bull-and-terrier breeds.
- Ask to see the hip, elbow, eye, L2Hga and HC results and have the proposed mating explained.
- Ask about skin, ears, paws, teeth, bite, breathing and movement in parents, siblings and previous offspring.
- Review BPH, MH or the mental index alongside concrete examples from daily life and encounters with dogs.
- Find out why the breeder chose these two dogs and which weaknesses the mating is intended to improve.

The most important question is not whether the breed is “nice” or “tough”, but whether the dog’s traits suit your home and whether you can provide safe training, appropriate activity, rest and suitable company.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club of Great Britain

American Kennel Club (AKC) - Though not EU, it is a well-established source

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a compact, muscular English terrier with a strong build and short, easy-care coat. Known for deep affection for people, especially children, it is lively, sensitive, needs daily exercise, positive training, sturdy chew toys, and close family companionship.

Kenneln startades redan 1975 av min mormor som hade tretton Golden Retriverkullar fram till och med 1993. 
2016 överlät hon kennelnamnet till mig och på så vis får det leva vidare inom familjen i ytterligare en generation men nu med Staffordshire bullterrier som ras.
2017 genomfördes SKKs Uppfödarutbildning, 2020 födde vi upp våra första egna valpar och sedan dess har vi haft en kull per år vilket är lagom för oss då det ligger mycket planering bakom varje kombination som vi genomför.

Dayennes

## Quick Facts

- The Eurasier is a medium-sized German Spitz breed, developed as a companion dog and happiest when living closely with its family.
- Under the breed standard, males should measure 52–60 cm and weigh 22–30 kg. The corresponding ranges for females are 48–56 cm and 18–26 kg.
- The standard describes a calm, self-assured and attentive dog with a strong bond to its family, without being pushy with strangers.
- Reserve should not be confused with fear. Swedish BPH behaviour assessments show clear variation in social confidence within the breed.
- Eurasiers generally enjoy joining in with family activities without having the workload of a working breed. Exercise and training must still be tailored to the individual each day.
- The double coat generally needs brushing about once a week, and more often when the undercoat is being shed.
- In Swedish breeding, both parents must have an official hip score before mating. The breed club’s advice about results and other tests goes beyond the registration requirement itself.
- The breed suits someone who wants a close everyday companion and accepts an independent streak. It is less well suited to a life with little company or an expectation that the dog should greet everyone.

## Appearance & Coat

The Eurasier is a balanced, medium-sized Spitz. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, its ears are erect, and its bushy tail is carried over the back or curved to one side. Bone should be moderate, and the thick coat must not obscure the dog’s proportions. The overall impression should be functional and well balanced rather than heavy or excessively fluffy.

The standard gives ranges of 52–60 cm and 22–30 kg for males and 48–56 cm and 18–26 kg for females. These figures are a guide to the breed, not a promise of an individual puppy’s adult size. If size matters in practical terms, look at the parents and close relatives as well.

The coat consists of a dense, soft undercoat and medium-length, straight guard hairs that lie fairly loosely. Hair is shorter on the face, ears and fronts of the legs, and longer on the tail and backs of the legs. All colours and colour combinations are permitted under the current international standard except pure white and piebald.

In everyday life, a thorough brush about once a week is often enough. More frequent brushing is needed when the undercoat comes out once or twice a year, and the amount of loose hair can then be considerable. Use the opportunity to check the skin, nails, ears and teeth. Bathe the dog when it is dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The Eurasier should be calm, self-assured and even-tempered, with a strong attachment to its family and limited interest in making contact with strangers. This can make the breed appealing to people who want a dog that enjoys being close to its own family without automatically greeting everyone. It does not mean that every Eurasier will be quiet, confident or easy in every situation.

Swedish BPH results offer a more nuanced picture than the ideal set out in the standard. As a group, the dogs showed little interest in strangers, but their confidence during social encounters varied considerably. A dog that calmly chooses not to greet is reserved. A dog that flees, freezes or becomes highly distressed needs more distance and support. Reserve must not be used to excuse fear or threatening behaviour.

A puppy needs early, positive experiences of different people, environments, surfaces and everyday situations. The aim is not to have strangers pet the puppy, but for the dog to remain calm and secure even when it does not wish to interact. Let it observe from a distance at which it can still eat, explore and recover. Forced greetings can increase insecurity.

Eurasiers can live happily with children, dogs or other animals, but the breed name is no guarantee. A dog and young children should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to handling, sudden movement and unfamiliar dogs. Where cats or small pets share the home, use calm introductions, secure separation and supervision while you learn about that individual dog’s chase behaviour.

## Training & Exercise

Eurasiers often learn quickly, but they were not developed for the sustained task work expected of a working breed. Clear routines, rewards the dog values and short sessions with an understandable goal tend to work best. Reward the behaviour you want to see again, making the task clear without damaging trust. Harsh corrections, intimidation and physical pressure have no place in training.

Everyday skills matter more than accumulating advanced exercises. Teach the dog to walk with you on a lead, wait, return when called, accept handling and settle when nothing is happening. Vary rewards between food, play, movement and access to things the dog wants to investigate. If the dog loses interest, reducing the difficulty or changing the task is often more useful than repeating the same cue.

The breed is generally happy to join walks and family outings without needing the workload of a dedicated working breed. A fixed number of exercise minutes says little about what a particular dog needs. A good day includes movement, opportunities to sniff, chances to solve problems and enough rest. Adjust this to age, health, weather and the dog’s recovery. Scent work, tracking, rally obedience, hoopers and other shared activities may suit the breed, but the individual dog’s motivation should guide your choice.

Recall still needs training, even if the dog likes to remain near its family. Neither a close family bond nor a reputation for low prey drive makes a dog safe off lead. Use a lead or long line wherever wildlife, traffic, other animals or local rules make off-lead exercise unsuitable.

## Health

The Eurasier is described as relatively healthy, but prospective owners should still check several health risks and breeding considerations. Begin by distinguishing SKK registration requirements from the breed club’s more extensive breeding recommendations.

For a Swedish litter to be registered, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. The requirement is a known result, not necessarily grade A or B. The Swedish Eurasier Club recommends breeding dogs with HD A or B, ED 0 and patella 0. Ask to see the official results and, where possible, check siblings and previous offspring as well. Parental results reduce uncertainty but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

The breed club also recommends carefully planned pairings for Dandy-Walker-like malformation, DWLM. The variant is inherited recessively and can be identified with a DNA test. A clear dog can be mated to another clear dog or to a carrier, whereas two carriers must not be paired. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and need not be removed from breeding when its mate has tested clear. This distinction matters both for preventing affected puppies and for preserving genetic diversity.

The breed club also monitors reported cases of hypothyroidism, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, EPI/EPA, and gastric torsion. The club does not describe these as major problems in the breed, but it continues to collect information about them. Persistent tiredness with coat changes, or recurring diarrhoea with weight loss, therefore deserve attention. Suspected gastric torsion requires emergency veterinary care.

Ask the breeder about official joint and patella results, DWLM status and known diagnoses among the parents, siblings and previous offspring. A general assurance that the dogs in the family are ‘healthy’ is less informative than documented results and an open account of relatives’ health.

## History & Origins

The Eurasier is a young breed with a well-documented German origin. Julius Wipfel began the breeding programme in 1960 by combining the Chow Chow and the Wolfspitz, also known as the Keeshond. The early dogs were called Wolf-Chows. The Samoyed was introduced later, and the breed was renamed Eurasier to reflect its European and Asian origins.

The FCI recognised the Eurasier in 1973, and the first Eurasier arrived in Sweden in 1994. The breed has always been intended as a companion dog, and the international standard does not require a working trial. This helps explain why close family contact and a stable everyday temperament are central to the breed. Simplistic claims that each foundation breed supplied one particular trait are best avoided, however; today’s dogs vary both mentally and physically.

## Living with the Breed

The Eurasier is best suited to a home where the dog takes part in everyday life. It can live in a flat or a house, because the size of the home matters less than the routine around exercise, rest, noise and company. A garden does not replace walks or family contact, and the breed’s background makes it unsuitable for living mainly alone in an outdoor kennel.

Time alone must be taught gradually once a puppy feels secure in its new home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains settled before, during and after you leave. Dogs learn this at different rates. Plan daily life around the individual dog you have, not a supposed breed limit measured in hours.

For families with children, adult supervision and a protected resting place matter more than the label ‘family dog’. Where cats or small pets are present, secure boundaries and controlled introductions matter more than assumptions about prey drive. Anyone who wants to do a great deal of training should meet the parents and ask what motivates them, how they cope with handling and how they recover in unfamiliar environments.

Before buying a puppy, ask for the registration certificate, sales contract, a current veterinary inspection certificate and documented health information for the parents. Meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look in particular at whether they can remain calmly neutral towards strangers without fleeing, freezing or being pressed into contact. A carefully planned Eurasier litter should make sense both on paper and in the life you can offer.

Eurasier

German Kennel Club (VDH)

Eurasier Klub e.V. Sitz Weinheim (EKW)

The Eurasier Society UK

The Eurasier is a medium, plush-coated Spitz bred as a calm family companion. Sensitive and deeply bonded to its people, it prefers a peaceful home, is reserved but non-aggressive with strangers, needs moderate daily walks, mental games, gentle training, and regular coat care.

EldZtorm är en uppfödare av rasen Eurasier med bas i Bagarmossen i Sverige. De första registreringarna under kennelnamnet är från 2024.

EldZtorm

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Detta är en liten kennel som har som mål att bevara rasens specifika jaktliga egenskaper. 
Vi är en liten kennel som väntar vår första kull i slutet av Juli 2024.
 
Vårt fokus är att få fram sunda, trygga, samarbetsvilliga hundar med bra mentalitet.
 
Andvingens Sköna Klippa kallas för "Klippa" är den tik som vi hoppas kommer att bli vår "stammoder".
 
Vi finns även på kopahund.se, Goldenklubben, Facebook och har en hemsida på Hundpoolen.se.

Dog and cat breeders in Huddinge

For buyers

Breeders

Cats

Dogs

Get a Pet