## Quick Facts

The Pyrenean Mastiff is a large Spanish guard and protection dog. It is independent, has a strong guarding instinct and a deep bark. The breed is best suited to an experienced owner with space, time for everyday training and well-planned routines for visitors, children and other animals.

- The breed is called Mastín del Pirineo in Spanish and is FCI breed number 92. It is not the same breed as the Pyrenean Mountain Dog.
- A male must stand at least 77 cm at the withers and should ideally exceed 81 cm. A female must stand at least 72 cm and should ideally exceed 75 cm.
- The breed standard sets no upper height limit and gives no weight. There is therefore no official standard weight.
- The breed was developed to protect livestock chiefly from wolves and bears, and is now also used to guard rural properties.
- The coat is thick, coarse and moderately long. The base colour is white and the head must have a clearly defined mask.
- Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, occur in the breed. The Swedish population is small, so the available figures are not sufficient to show reliably how common these conditions are.

You must be comfortable living with a dog that assesses events around the home for itself and will not automatically welcome every visitor.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pyrenean Mastiff should be large, powerful and muscular without looking heavy or cumbersome. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, and its movement should be agile. The standard gives minimum and preferred heights but no upper limit. Fixed height and weight ranges are therefore misleading; there is no official figure in kilograms.

The coat is a defining feature. It should be thick and coarse, not woolly, and moderately long. The ideal length along the middle of the back is 6–9 cm. It is longer on the shoulders, neck, underside, backs of the legs and tail. This is a substantial coat, but it should not be excessively long.

The base colour is white and the dog must always have a clearly defined facial mask. Both ears must be included in the mask. Any patches on the body should match the mask and have clear outlines. The feet, legs and tip of the tail should be white. Completely white or tricoloured dogs, red patches and a yellowish-white base colour are not desirable under the standard.

Brushing once a week is a sensible basic routine, with more frequent attention during shedding or when tangles develop. Pay particular attention to the longer hair on the neck, legs and tail, and check the skin, ears, nails and paws at the same time. Bathing should be based on how the dog lives rather than a fixed timetable.

Teach the puppy early to stand calmly while you brush the coat and check the paws, mouth and ears. A dog that cooperates willingly is safer to groom and examine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Pyrenean Mastiff is an independent guardian, not simply a large companion dog. The breed standard describes the ideal dog as friendly, calm, proud and intelligent. It also describes a fearless dog that does not submit to strangers, is aware of its strength and has a deep, impressive bark. The Swedish Kennel Club also emphasises its strong guarding instinct and territorial behaviour.

A well-adjusted dog may therefore be calm in daily life yet respond when someone approaches the home. A guarding instinct is not the same as unprovoked aggression, but it will not disappear through obedience training. The owner must prevent the dog from assuming responsibility for the front door, the property boundary or visitors.

The standard describes a breeding ideal, not a promise about every individual. The Swedish evidence is also limited: the breed-specific breeding strategy reports 24 BPH assessments during 2008–2023 and no MH assessments. Ask how the parents behave around visitors, handling, unexpected sounds and encounters. Meet them where possible and ask to see any registered temperament assessments.

Friendliness towards other dogs forms part of the breed ideal, but does not guarantee that every adult will get along with every other dog. The same applies to children and cats. Early experience, individual temperament and the owner's handling all matter. Choose an individual for the home it will actually share, and arrange the household so the dog can be separated calmly when necessary.

## Training & Exercise

Training should make this large, independent dog manageable before it is fully grown. Prioritise engagement, lead walking, recall, stopping, waiting at doors, cooperative handling and settling in a designated place. Short, clear sessions using reward-based methods teach the dog which behaviours earn a reward without creating unnecessary conflict.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for it to observe people, dogs and everyday events calmly, without guarding, fleeing or pushing forward. Give it space and teach it to look to you for support. When visitors arrive, the dog should be able to wait behind a barrier and return to its place.

An adult Pyrenean Mastiff needs daily movement and mental activity, but fixed exercise times are a poor guide. Adjust quiet walks, scent work and everyday training to its fitness, joints, age and the weather. Time loose in a garden does not replace shared activity or training in unfamiliar places.

The puppy grows rapidly during its first year. Exercise should be moderate and increase as the puppy moves comfortably and recovers well, not according to a one-size-fits-all formula based on minutes. Choose short outings that combine movement, sniffing and rest rather than long distances at a set pace or repeated jumping. Recurrent stiffness, reluctance to move or lameness are reasons to reduce activity and contact a vet.

Recall does not remove the need for a lead and secure fencing. Begin training without major distractions and increase the difficulty gradually; do not test obedience in a situation that is still too demanding.

## Health

HD and ED are the clearest documented health concerns, while the Swedish population is too small to provide reliable prevalence figures. The breed-specific breeding strategy notes both a low number of examined dogs and a lack of useful insurance data. It is therefore more honest to examine results for a particular litter and its relatives than to quote a percentage for the breed.

In Sweden, both parents must have official HD status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The 2026 rules do not, however, require official ED status for the breed. The breed club's recommendation goes further: both breeding dogs should have official hip and elbow results, ED 0 and no worse than HD C. A dog with HD C should be paired with one graded HD A or B.

Ask the breeder to show the results, discuss close relatives and explain the choice of mating. The breed club recommends an inbreeding coefficient no higher than 6.3 per cent, repeating the same mating no more than twice and limiting each breeding dog to 20 offspring. It also recommends a known BPH or MH result.

Rapid growth makes body condition, feeding and activity levels important. Monitor the puppy's body condition and growth with the breeder and vet, and adjust its food in line with their advice.

Owners of very large dogs should recognise gastric dilatation-volvulus, GDV, even though the breed data do not show how common it is specifically in the Pyrenean Mastiff. Unproductive retching, drooling, restlessness, panting, a distended or painful abdomen, pale gums, weakness or collapse require immediate veterinary attention. Preventive gastropexy can be discussed with a vet; it reduces the risk of twisting but does not stop the stomach from dilating.

## History & Origins

The Pyrenean Mastiff developed in Spain as a guard and protection dog for livestock. In the Pyrenean mountain regions it defended animals from large predators, chiefly wolves and bears. The task required strength, vigilance and the ability to assess threats without constant direction, traits that remain visible in the way the breed works and guards.

As wolves and bears disappeared from large parts of the region, the need for these dogs declined. The difficult economy after the Spanish Civil War also made it costly to keep very large dogs without a clear job. According to the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, remnants of the population survived with a few shepherds until the mid-1970s.

Enthusiasts then searched for dogs in the northern mountain regions and began to rebuild the breed. The Spanish breed club was founded in 1977 and became an important part of this work. The modern breed therefore has an old working heritage but a breeding population rebuilt in recent times.

In Sweden, the breed lives chiefly as a companion with guarding traits. Its history remains practically relevant: a dog bred to work independently as a protector does not automatically become an uncomplicated city dog simply because it grows up in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Pyrenean Mastiff calls for a carefully planned routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes a rural setting with access to the outdoors as a better starting point than a flat or city. Other settings require a workable plan for the available space, access over stairs, daily walks, barking, visitors and safe separation.

Make a practical assessment before buying:

- Can the dog pass through doors, gates and shared spaces without close encounters?
- Is there secure fencing and a plan that prevents the dog from assuming responsibility for the property boundary?
- Can you separate the dog behind a sturdy barrier when tradespeople, guests or children's friends arrive?
- Will an adult dog fit safely in the car, and can you get it to a vet if it cannot jump or walk unaided?
- Can every adult in the home manage the lead, grooming and emergencies involving a very strong dog?
- Do you have access to a breeder, trainer and vet who understand large, independent guardian dogs?

Children and dogs need active adult supervision. Even a friendly dog can knock over a small child, and guarding behaviour does not mean the dog should be responsible for the child. Let the dog eat and rest undisturbed, and end interaction before anyone becomes overexcited.

Introduce a cat or another dog gradually and under control, allowing distance and separation. Growing up together improves the prospects but is no guarantee; continue to monitor the relationship as the dog grows and its guarding behaviour matures.

Train the dog to be alone gradually, starting with short, comfortable periods and increasing them only once it can relax. Step back if it becomes stressed, barks or starts monitoring the surroundings. A large garden does not replace social contact and can give the dog many opportunities to practise boundary guarding.

The Pyrenean Mastiff suits someone who values a large, dignified and independent guardian and is prepared to manage its strength, guarding instinct and independent judgement. The right home plans before these traits become problems and does not make the dog responsible for the family's safety.

Pyrenean Mastiff

The Kennel Club (UK)

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (Germany)

Large Spanish livestock guardian, the Pyrenean Mastiff is a giant, steady dog with a dense white coat and dark patches. Calm, observant and deeply loyal, it’s affectionate with family yet reserved with strangers, needing space, firm but gentle training, and experienced ownership.

Wo-Wo är en uppfödare av rasen Pyreneisk mastiff med bas i Hestra i Sverige. Den första pyreneiska mastiffen kom till verksamheten 2018, efter ungefär tre års planering.

Wo-Wo

## Quick Facts

The Maltese is a small companion dog suited to someone who wants a close, alert companion and has plenty of time for coat care. The breed may enjoy long walks and play as much as quiet time on a lap. Its small size does not mean that it simply wants to be carried, although it does call for gentle handling.

- **Origin and home country:** the central Mediterranean and Italy
- **Breed group:** Group 9, companion and toy dogs
- **Size:** males 21–25 cm and females 20–23 cm at the withers
- **Weight:** 3–4 kg under the breed standard
- **Coat:** long, straight, white and silky, with no undercoat
- **A good match for:** someone seeking a lively little companion who is ready for regular coat, dental and general care

A Maltese can suit a first-time owner, but a newcomer must still be prepared to learn about grooming and work on time alone, house training and everyday manners from the outset. Before choosing the breed, ask yourself whether you genuinely want to care for its coat almost every day for many years.

## Appearance & Coat

The Maltese is a small, elegant dog whose body is longer than it is tall. A full show coat falls long and straight down the body. The breed standard describes a dense, glossy, silky coat without an undercoat. It should be pure white, although a slight ivory shade is permitted.

A long Maltese coat needs combing and brushing every day, or at least every other day, to stop small tangles developing into mats. The white coat also needs regular bathing, but the right interval depends on coat length, daily life and how dirty the dog gets. Work through the coat methodically down to the skin, paying particular attention to areas where friction readily causes knots.

Many pet Maltese are clipped shorter than the show ideal. A shorter coat may make grooming quicker, but it does not remove the need to check the skin, eyes, ears, nails and teeth. Ask the breeder to demonstrate how the individual dog's coat should be combed, washed and dried. Gradually teach the puppy to stand still, accept handling and allow its paws, mouth and face to be examined. This makes routine care less stressful for both dog and owner.

The Maltese is sometimes described as allergy-friendly because it has no undercoat. That is misleading: no dog is free of allergens, which are found mainly in the skin and saliva. Reactions also differ between individual dogs, including those of the same breed. Anyone with an allergy should therefore seek advice about their own circumstances from a healthcare professional rather than relying on a breed name or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a lively, affectionate, calm and intelligent companion. Many Maltese pay close attention to their owner, enjoy learning small tasks and readily alternate between activity and quiet company. They are engaged companions, not ornaments without needs of their own.

A breed description cannot guarantee how an individual dog will react to strangers, other dogs or unfamiliar places. A Swedish breed-club owner survey covered 247 dogs and recorded varied social responses. Only 13 Maltese had completed Sweden's official Behaviour and Personality Assessment during the period reported, too few to draw firm conclusions about the breed as a whole.

Do not assume that every Maltese will be quiet, welcoming to everyone or automatically easy around other animals. Ask the breeder how the puppy's parents behave in daily life: with visitors, when meeting other dogs, when handled, around noise and when resting. Calm exposure to different people and settings, together with clear routines, is more useful than broad labels such as ‘barky’ or ‘always friendly’.

## Training & Exercise

The Maltese needs physical activity and mental engagement every day, but the same number of minutes will not suit every dog. A healthy adult may enjoy longer walks, scent games, trick training and play. Adjust pace and distance to age, fitness, weather and recovery. Build a puppy's exercise up gradually. If a dog becomes stiff, lame or unusually tired, reduce the load; persistent signs should be assessed by a vet.

When teaching something new, finish while the dog is still able to concentrate rather than following a fixed session length. Reward the behaviour you want and practise useful everyday skills: recall, walking on a lead, relaxing in a designated place, accepting handling and settling after alerting you to something.

House training is a learning process, not a test of the breed's intelligence or stubbornness. Take the puppy out frequently, especially after sleep, food and play, and reward success. Time alone must also be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability will depend on its training and temperament. Start with very brief, uneventful separations and increase them only while the dog remains relaxed.

## Health

The Maltese is generally described as a healthy breed, although patellar luxation and umbilical hernia can occur. Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position; lameness or a recurring skipping step warrants veterinary assessment.

The Swedish breed club's breeding strategy records 40 registered patella examinations in 2012–2021. This is a small, selected sample and does not show how common the condition is across all Maltese. Instead, ask the breeder to show any official patella results for the parents and discuss knee problems or umbilical hernias among close relatives. The Maltese has no breed-specific compulsory health examination under the Swedish Kennel Club's special registration rules for 2026. A voluntary result can still provide useful information; voluntary does not mean unimportant.

Watery eyes and staining beneath them, often called tear staining, were reported for many dogs in the breed club's owner survey. The survey report describes the staining as cosmetic while noting that its cause has not been established. The colour alone is therefore not a diagnosis. Keep the area clean and dry, but seek veterinary advice if the eye becomes red, the dog squints or rubs it, or there is discharge or another clear new change.

Check the eyes, movement, skin and mouth regularly. Introduce tooth brushing while the dog is young, keeping all handling calm and predictable. A long list of possible small-dog conditions is less informative than documented results, the dog's own signs and what is actually known about the health of close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Maltese name does not prove that the breed comes from the island of Malta. The official standard gives the central Mediterranean as its place of origin and Italy as its home country. It links the name to a Semitic word for harbour or refuge, found in several place names around the Mediterranean.

Ancestors of the breed lived in ports and coastal towns, where they hunted rats and mice in warehouses and ships' holds. Small dogs called *canes melitenses* were mentioned in Aristotle's time. Similar dogs later became valued companions in ancient Rome and appear beside fashionable figures in Renaissance paintings. The breed's history therefore includes both practical work in ports and a long role as a companion.

The first documented Maltese in Sweden was a female imported from England in 1910 and shown in Stockholm in 1911. Today's breed is primarily a companion dog, although individual dogs may also enjoy activities such as obedience, tracking or agility at a suitable level.

## Living with the Breed

A Maltese can live happily in a flat if given walks, mental activity, company and training around everyday sounds. A compact home does not lessen these daily needs, and a small dog should not spend its day being carried. It needs opportunities to walk, sniff, choose where to rest and use its body safely.

Adult supervision matters around children. At only 3–4 kg, the dog is safer when play takes place at floor level, lifting is gentle and it has a bed where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone while it is eating or sleeping. Whether a Maltese gets along with other dogs, cats or small pets depends on the individual, previous experience and careful introductions; breed alone cannot provide a guarantee.

Make an honest assessment of daily life before buying:

- Can someone groom the dog almost every day and start tooth brushing and handling practice straight away?
- How do the parents behave with visitors, other dogs, rest and brief separations?
- Are official patella results available, and what does the breeder know about knees, umbilical hernias and eye problems in the family?
- Can you see the registration documents and meet the mother in her usual surroundings?
- Can you arrange care while the puppy is still too young to be left alone?

The Maltese is best suited to someone who appreciates its blend of affection, liveliness and willingness to learn, while accepting the extensive care and individual variation behind its elegant white appearance.

Maltese

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Maltese is a small, sturdy companion dog with a long, white silky coat and expressive dark eyes. Affectionate and people oriented, it adapts well to apartments with daily walks. It needs regular grooming, dental care and gentle training, and often enjoys a long, active life.

Ginny Angel är en uppfödare av rasen Malteser med bas i Alingsås i Sverige. Verksamheten har haft malteser under kennelnamnet sedan 2002.

Ginny Angel

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

## Quick Facts

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, recognised sled dog breed developed to work in teams, carrying light loads at moderate speed over long distances. It is a friendly, sociable type of dog, but few individuals are suited to life solely as a companion. The breed is best matched with someone who genuinely wants to provide pulling or endurance work and can manage a strong prey drive, a substantial need for activity and possible difficulty with being left alone.

- **Use:** Nordic sled dog in FCI Group 5.
- **Origin:** the dog type developed in north-eastern Siberia; the breed's official country of origin is the USA.
- **Size:** males 53.5–60 cm and 20.5–28 kg; females 50.5–56 cm and 15.5–23 kg.
- **Typical temperament:** friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing according to the breed standard.
- **Most important in daily life:** meaningful work, safe control outdoors, companionship and early training for everyday situations.

A large garden is no substitute for work and walks, and plenty of walks do not automatically replace the breed's need to work physically alongside a handler or in a team. The key question is therefore not only how active you are, but whether you want to live with a sled dog and arrange a routine suited to its original job.

## Appearance & Coat

A Siberian Husky should look like an endurance worker, not a heavy freight dog or a fragile sprinter. The body is moderately compact, slightly longer than tall and built for light, fluid movement. Healthy body condition and well-developed muscle matter more to function than a heavy or exceptionally fluffy appearance.

The almond-shaped eyes may be brown, blue, one of each or parti-coloured. Blue eyes are therefore permitted, but eye colour says nothing about a dog's working ability, temperament or suitability for a particular home.

The medium-length coat is double, with a soft, dense undercoat and straight guard hairs. The undercoat may be absent during shedding without this being abnormal. Permitted coat colours are black, grey, agouti, sable, red and white, either solid or in multiple shades and patterns. Merle and brindle, however, are not permitted patterns in the breed standard.

Brush according to the dog's actual needs and work gently through loose undercoat during shedding. There is no fixed schedule that suits every dog or season. The breed standard permits trimming between the toes and around the feet, but not other cosmetic trimming. Clipping for a medical reason is, of course, a veterinary matter rather than coat styling.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Siberian Husky is friendly, gentle, alert and outgoing, while also being independent and strongly influenced by its pack-oriented background. It should not be overly suspicious of strangers, possessive as a guard dog or aggressive towards other dogs. This describes the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.

The pack instinct has made the breed skilled at working closely with other dogs. It does not mean that every Husky will automatically live well with every dog in a household. Play style, management of food and other resources, sex, age, previous experience and a calm introduction still matter.

Prey drive is one of the most important traits to understand before buying. Many dogs of the breed are difficult to exercise off lead even when recall has been trained carefully. A long line or a securely enclosed area provides freedom without making recall the only safeguard. With cats, the outcome depends on the individual dog, its upbringing and the cat's behaviour, but peaceful cohabitation should never be assumed. Small mammals and birds need physical separation that does not rely on the dog choosing not to chase.

The breed standard's friendly temperament does not automatically make the dog safe with children either. Children and dogs need to learn one another's signals, an adult should be present with young children, and the dog must have an undisturbed place to rest.

## Training & Exercise

The Siberian Husky needs a great deal of exercise, training and stimulation, but a universal number of hours per day gives a false impression. Requirements vary with age, fitness, health, temperature, surface and the difficulty of the work. It matters more that the dog can do work suited to the breed, recover well and settle at home than that a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Pulling in a team, cross-country skiing with a dog and well-planned dryland work are close to the breed's function. Load and distance must be built up gradually. A beginner will benefit greatly from learning about harnesses, lines, commands, overtaking and assessing weather and surfaces through an experienced sled dog club. The breed club's sled dog trials, including DP20+, are used to assess function, temperament and the dog's working ability as a polar sled dog.

Daily life also needs calm walks, scent work, cooperation and recovery. Prioritise the following from an early stage:

- walking politely on lead and remaining calm while being harnessed;
- stopping, changing direction and waiting before a start;
- secure routines at doors, cars, gates and kennels;
- recall as a trained skill, without making it the only protection against a chase;
- settling, handling and the ability to wind down after work.

Training should be positive, clear and well planned. Harsher methods will not make an independent dog more cooperative and may damage your relationship. In warm weather, reduce the workload or move it to cooler parts of the day. A thick coat and exercise increase the risk of overheating; stop if the dog pants heavily, becomes weak or uncoordinated, or is unusually tired. Let the dog's behaviour, physical signs and the conditions guide you, not a single temperature threshold.

## Health

The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Siberian Husky as generally healthy, but the evidence has an important limitation: relatively few dogs have been examined for hips, elbows and eyes. The fact that most tested dogs have been healthy does not prove that every line is free from inherited problems.

Under SKK's current registration rules, the Siberian Husky is not one of the breeds with a special requirement for recorded hip status. It is therefore incorrect to describe hip scoring or an eye examination as a universal Swedish registration requirement for the breed. Results may still be useful. Ask the breeder to show which examinations have actually been carried out, why they were chosen and what the results are in parents, siblings and older relatives.

DNA tests are also available for three documented variants: SHPN1, SPS1 and HUU. SHPN1 is a progressive neurological disease that affects mobility. It is thought to be inherited recessively, but not every dog with two copies of the variant develops clear signs. The Swedish breed club has specifically drawn attention to known SHPN1 carriers in Swedish pedigrees. A carrier is not the same as a sick dog; what matters is that a mating is planned with knowledge of both parents' status. SPS1 concerns a form of tremor in puppies, while HUU involves elevated uric acid levels with a risk of urate stones. The existence of a test does not make all three mandatory for every Swedish litter. Ask which tests are relevant to the particular family and request the original laboratory results.

Also consider how the dogs actually stand up to work. Ask how older relatives have coped with training, whether recurring lameness, paw problems, neurological signs or urinary stones have occurred, and at what age any problem began. Keep the dog lean, build fitness gradually and investigate changes in gait rather than training through them.

## History & Origins

The Siberian Husky developed as a sled dog in north-eastern Siberia, while the USA is the breed's official country of origin under the FCI standard. Its original job was to carry light loads at moderate speed over long distances, a function that still explains the breed's size, movement, pack cooperation and endurance.

The Siberian dogs attracted attention in Alaska when a team entered the All Alaska Sweepstakes in 1909 and finished third. The following year, teams made up of these dogs finished first, second and fourth. Leonhard Seppala won the race for three consecutive years from 1915 to 1917 and later became one of the drivers in the 1925 serum relay to Nome, in which dog teams carried diphtheria serum across Alaska.

The American Kennel Club recognised the Siberian Husky in 1930. The FCI granted the breed definitive recognition in 1966. These dates are documented. There is, however, no firm support for popular stories claiming that the temperament of all modern dogs comes from their ancestors sleeping in family tents.

## Living with the Breed

The Siberian Husky works best in a home where sled dog life is part of the plan, not an activity that might be tried later. The breed can be a first dog, but this requires unusually thorough preparation, support from experienced sled dog drivers and a routine that already has room for work, safe transport, control and recovery.

Flat living can work. Floor area matters less than whether the dog's needs are met and it can settle indoors. In a building with poor sound insulation, you also need a plan if the dog makes noise when aroused or left. Safety begins in the stairwell, lift and entrance: use a lead and routines that prevent the dog getting into traffic or chasing wildlife.

Alone-time training should begin in very small steps once the dog feels secure, and the time left alone should increase only while it can remain calm. The breed has a strong pack instinct, and some individuals struggle even after thoughtful training. Plan in advance for a dog sitter, day care or a routine in which the dog can accompany you. Another dog may provide company but does not guarantee that being left will be easy.

When choosing a breeder, it is better to assess the dogs than to choose by the label “working line” or “show line”. Ask to see the parents in daily life and at work. Ask what distances and surfaces they train on, how they recover, how they work in a team and how they are handled at rest, during transport and when meeting people or dogs. Check registered sled-work results and health information in SKK Hunddata and Avelsdata.

The breed club's puppy list requires membership and SKK registration for both parents; a place on that list is therefore not in itself proof of working ability or completed health tests. The breeder should be able to explain why the pairing was chosen and show specific information about function, temperament, health and older relatives. That tells you more about what to expect from the puppy than coat colour, eye colour or a line label.

Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Club of Great Britain

The Norwegian Siberian Husky Club

Swedish Kennel Club

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA)

The Siberian Husky is a medium, athletic sled dog with a thick double coat and striking multi‑colored eyes. Friendly and energetic, it needs substantial exercise, secure fencing, and consistent positive training. Generally healthy and long‑lived, but prone to eye issues and heavy shedding.

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Vargarflockens är en uppfödare av raserna Pomeranian, Siberian husky och Tysk Schäferhund med bas i Floby i Sverige. Uppfödningen av siberian husky har en bakgrund som sträcker sig tillbaka till 2014.

Vargarflockens

Smith Labradoodles

Alplyckans

Postgårdsbacken

101 Labradoodles

## Quick Facts

Cockerpoo is a cross between a Cocker Spaniel and a Poodle, not a uniform breed with a shared breed standard. Size, coat, activity level and temperament can therefore differ markedly between individuals. The most useful information about a puppy comes from its actual parents and close relatives, not from a general description of the Cockerpoo.

- **Background:** Cocker Spaniel crossed with Poodle
- **Variation:** the Cocker line and Poodle variety influence size, coat and working style, among other traits
- **Common generation labels:** F1 means a Cocker Spaniel crossed with a Poodle; the letter b in a label such as F1b shows that a later generation has been backcrossed towards one of the parent types
- **Important to know:** the generation label describes ancestry but does not guarantee a particular coat, size, personality or state of health
- **What the owner needs:** time for training, daily activity and regular coat care, plus a willingness to assess the individual dog instead of relying on the cross's reputation

Always ask which type of Cocker Spaniel and which size variety of Poodle are behind the puppy. An English Cocker from working lines may have different traits from a show-bred Cocker, and the difference between Toy, Miniature, Medium and Standard Poodles has considerable practical importance.

## Appearance & Coat

An adult Cockerpoo's size and coat cannot be predicted from one common set of measurements. Poodles come in four size varieties, while the Cocker line and inherited variation also affect the outcome. Ask the breeder which Cocker and Poodle variety were used, the parents' height and weight, and how adult full or half-siblings developed. This is more informative than generic measurements for the entire cross.

The coat may be relatively straight, wavy or curly. It may shed lightly, noticeably or somewhere in between, even among puppies in the same litter. Poodle crosses may shed less than many other dogs, but a curly coat is more prone to tangling, especially when wet. Low shedding therefore does not mean low maintenance.

Check the coat with both a brush and a comb all the way down to the skin. If the comb catches, tangles remain even when the surface looks well brushed. How often the dog needs brushing, bathing and clipping depends on the length and density of its actual coat and on everyday conditions, not on one fixed schedule for every Cockerpoo. Introduce a puppy calmly and early to having its paws, ears and face handled, as well as to a hair dryer and clippers.

Cockerpoos are not allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in substances including saliva and skin material, and the amount varies between individual dogs, even between littermates. Low shedding, a curly coat or an F1b label is therefore no guarantee that a person with allergies can live with the dog. Anyone with allergy symptoms should seek healthcare advice before buying a dog and assume that reactions may differ between individual dogs.

## Temperament & Personality

A Cockerpoo may combine the Cocker Spaniel's liveliness and willingness to cooperate with the Poodle's activity and trainability, but the cross does not produce a predetermined temperament. Sociability, interest in chasing, noise sensitivity, ability to settle and reactions to handling can all vary. Environment, early experiences and training also matter greatly.

Be cautious of promises that every Cockerpoo is an easy first dog or an automatic fit for children. A British questionnaire study containing data on 9,402 dogs found several behavioural differences between common Poodle crosses and their parent breeds. It does not support the idea that the crosses generally require less training. The findings apply to groups and cannot predict an individual puppy, but they show why sales language should not replace a proper behavioural assessment.

Ideally, meet both parents, or at least the mother and other close adult relatives. Observe how they recover after an unexpected noise, approach people without becoming overbearing, cope with frustration and settle after activity. Ask specifically about barking, resource guarding, chasing, time alone, car travel and grooming. Answers describing real situations are more useful than labels such as “nice” or “family-friendly”.

## Training & Exercise

Cockerpoos need daily movement, mental activity and recovery, but no minute-based rule suits every dog. The widely repeated five-minute rule for puppy exercise has no scientific support and should not be used as a strict schedule. Age, body size, health, fitness and recovery should determine the amount. A puppy needs short, varied activities and plenty of rest; an adult may enjoy walks, scent work, retrieving, problem-solving and other training with its owner.

Increase the workload gradually and look at the whole picture. Stiffness, reluctance to move, prolonged over-arousal or unusual tiredness after activity are reasons to reduce the demands and contact a vet when needed. A dog that keeps seeking activity may instead need help settling, better sleep or calm scent work, not automatically a longer and faster walk.

Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement despite scents and movement in the surroundings
- walking calmly on a lead and a reliable stop or drop cue
- calm handling of the ears, paws, mouth and entire coat
- switching between activity and rest
- gradual alone-time training in very small steps
- comfortable car travel and neutral encounters with people and dogs

Use reward-based training and keep the level of difficulty manageable. Cocker ancestry may contribute an interest in scents, birds and movement, while Poodle ancestry is often associated with quick learning. Treat these as possible starting points, not guarantees. Recall needs to work around gradually increasing distractions before the dog is given more freedom.

## Health

Cockerpoos are not automatically healthier than their parent breeds. Another study using owner-provided information compared three common Poodle crosses with their respective parent breeds. No statistically significant difference was found in 86.6 per cent of the comparisons. The result supports neither the claim that the crosses are generally healthier nor that they are generally less healthy. The data were collected at one point in time and describe groups, so they cannot serve as a prognosis for a particular puppy.

The practical safeguard is to assess both parents according to their own breeds and varieties. Ask for a registration number or other verifiable identity, the name of each test, the examination date and the actual result. “Vet checked” or “DNA tested” is not enough unless it is clear what was examined.

### Check the Cocker parent

The puppy referral criteria used by the Swedish Cocker Spaniel Club include documented hip results, a current eye examination and a result for familial nephropathy, FN. These are criteria for the club's referral of purebred Cocker litters, not a formal set of rules for all Cockerpoo litters. They are nevertheless relevant checkpoints for the Cocker parent. Also ask about prcd-PRA, but remember that a prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA and does not rule out every retinal disease.

### Check the Poodle parent

First establish the exact Poodle variety. In Sweden, Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles have a health programme for prcd-PRA with recorded results, while Standard Poodles have a different breeding focus in which hip results are central. The Swedish Poodle Club also recommends a patellar examination before breeding Toy and Miniature Poodles. Check what is relevant to that parent's exact variety rather than accepting only that “the Poodle is tested”.

DNA results must also be interpreted as a combination. For an autosomal recessive disease, a healthy carrier can be used without producing affected puppies if the other parent is genetically clear of the same variant, but the test results for both parents must be verifiable. Ask a veterinarian or the relevant breed club to explain any result that is unclear.

## History & Origins

Cockerpoos descend from two breeds with documented working histories. The Cocker Spaniel was developed in Britain as a flushing and retrieving gundog; its name is associated with hunting woodcock. The Poodle has an older European background as a water retriever. Both are now also kept as companions and for a wide range of activities.

The modern cross has become popular as a companion dog, but there is no shared standard that makes size, coat and other traits uniform. Claims about an exact first decade or one original breeding objective are poorly documented and should not be used to predict today's dogs. For an individual puppy, the parents' identities, working lines, health and behaviour matter far more than a simplified origin story.

## Living with the Breed

Cockerpoos can live successfully in many kinds of homes when the individual's needs fit the household's routine. A flat is not an obstacle in itself, but the dog needs reliable routines for toilet breaks, activity and rest, plus training around sounds in stairwells and outside the door. Barking or anxiety is not solved by the size of the home; identify the triggering situations and train at a level where the dog can remain calm.

Time alone needs to be taught gradually. Start once the dog feels secure in the home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains relaxed. If the dog barks, howls, destroys things, tries to escape or cannot eat when left, take the training back a step and assess the cause. Severe distress requires help from a veterinarian and a qualified behaviour professional.

An adult should always take responsibility for interactions with children. The dog needs a protected resting place, and children should not disturb it while it is sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Compatibility with cats or other dogs depends on the individuals. Introduce them gradually, use distance and physical separation, and prevent chasing before giving the animals more freedom together.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to answer the following questions:

- Which Cocker line and Poodle variety were used, and how large are the parents?
- Which recorded health results are available for each parent, with dates and identities?
- How do the parents and adult relatives behave at rest, during handling, around noises, unfamiliar dogs and time alone?
- What are the coats of adult relatives like, and what care do they require in practice?
- How were the puppies raised and introduced to people, everyday sounds, surfaces, handling and brief periods of separation?

A sound assessment starts with documents and observable traits. Do not choose a Cockerpoo simply because it is described as allergy-friendly, easy or perfect for a family.

Cockerpoo

The British Cockapoo Society

PDSA (UK)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Cockerpoos are small to medium companion dogs, a Cocker Spaniel–Poodle cross. Friendly, people‑focused and lively, they suit active families and first‑time owners. Many shed lightly but need regular grooming, daily training, and at least an hour’s physical and mental exercise.

Jag har klippt hundar och katter i 32 år, Har även ett litet hunddagis.
Jag har bara en liten uppfödning, med en kull då och då.
 Min ambition att få fram så trygga, glada friska och lugna hundar som möjligt och att dom får en bra uppväxt. 

Jag har precis startat en ny Instagram sida för valparna. 
Du kan följa mig på:  babsans_cockerpoovalpar

Babsan hund och kattklipp , babsans cockerpoo

Rose

Sheperd Guardians är en liten och engagerad kennel som föder upp SKK-registrerade schäferhundar med stort hjärta för rasen.

Uppfödningen sker i liten skala där varje hund får tid, närvaro och rätt förutsättningar att utvecklas både mentalt och fysiskt. Hälsa, arbetsvilja och stabilt temperament är grundpelare i avelsarbetet, med målet att föda upp trygga, rastypiska schäferhundar som fungerar lika väl som familjehundar som i arbete.

Sheperd Guardians

Maine Coon

Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF) - United Kingdom

Fédération Internationale Féline (FIFe) - France

Maine Coon-Katzen e.V. (German Maine Coon Club) - Germany

The Norwegian Forest Cat Club (includes information on Maine Coons) - Norway

The Cat Fanciers' Association (CFA) - United Kingdom

Large, sturdy North American cat with a rectangular body, tufted paws, and a semi‑long, weather‑resistant coat that’s relatively easy to groom. Friendly, playful “gentle giant” that chirps and trills, enjoys family life and other pets, and needs space, stimulation, and regular care.

Månskenstassen's

Uppfödning av Maltipoo, Shihpoo & Labradoodle på landsbygden utanför Göteborg 🌸
Snälla, glada, friska familjehundar med trevligt temperament & hälsotestade föräldrar.
Vi finns på Instagram! Lyckligavovvenskennel

Lyckliga Vovven

Päsnäs Kennel

Linnea Rosdahl

Anna Persson

## Quick Facts

The Basenji is a small, lightly built hunting dog of primitive type from Central Africa. It does not bark in the usual way, but it is not silent: yodels, chortles and other sounds are part of how the breed communicates. A Basenji suits someone who appreciates an independent dog and can manage its hunting instinct safely.

- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types.
- **Origin and patronage:** the breed originated in Central Africa; Great Britain is its country of patronage within the FCI.
- **Original purpose:** hunting, including driving game towards traps. Today the Basenji is primarily a companion dog in Sweden.
- **Size:** the breed standard gives ideals of 43 cm and 11 kg for dogs, and 40 cm and 9.5 kg for bitches.
- **Coat:** short, sleek, close and very fine.
- **Voice:** barkless but not mute; its distinctive sound is described as a mixture of a chortle and a yodel.
- **Temperament:** intelligent, independent, affectionate and alert; some individuals are aloof with strangers.
- **Activity:** needs regular physical exercise, scent work and training that feels worthwhile to the dog.
- **Important breeding health concerns:** Fanconi syndrome, PRA-BJ1 and other Basenji retinopathy/PRA, together with eye examination.
- **Seasonality:** many Basenji bitches have a seasonal cycle, often coming into season once in autumn in the Nordic region, but there are exceptions.

## Appearance & Coat

The Basenji is high on the leg in relation to its body length and should look light, balanced and agile. The head is finely chiselled, the ears are small and erect, and the forehead wrinkles when the ears are pricked. The chest runs up into a definite waist, and the tail is carried in a tight curl over the back. The figures in the standard are ideals, so look at the parents and mature close relatives if adult size matters to you.

The coat is short, sleek, close and very fine. Accepted colours include black and white, red and white, black, tan and white, and brindle with black stripes on a red background. White must appear on the feet, chest and tail tip; white legs, a blaze and a collar are optional.

The short coat is relatively straightforward to keep clean. Check the skin and coat regularly and brush when loose hair or dirt needs removing. A short coat does not, however, make the breed allergy-free. Dog allergens occur mainly in skin and saliva, and levels vary between individuals, even within the same litter. Anyone with an allergy should therefore assess the individual dog and seek medical advice before buying.

## Temperament & Personality

The Basenji combines closeness to its people with a marked ability to make its own decisions. The standard describes the breed as intelligent, affectionate and alert, but it is not automatically biddable. What seems charming and inventive in a quiet setting can become a safety issue when the dog sees or scents something it wants to follow.

The standard allows for some reserve with strangers; it is not the same as fear or aggression. Let the puppy encounter different people, dogs and environments at its own pace. Ask how the parents and mature close relatives respond to visitors and handling.

A Basenji can live happily in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of safety. An adult should supervise young children and the dog, and the dog needs a resting place where it will not be disturbed. Children should leave the dog alone when it is sleeping, eating or moving away. Assess the individual dog's signals and history, especially if you are considering an adult dog being rehomed.

Relationships with other dogs, cats and small animals vary. The breed's hunting background means that rapid movement can trigger a chase, even in a dog that is calm with the family cat indoors. Build coexistence through slow introductions, separate safe areas and by preventing the dog from practising chasing. Familiarity at home does not automatically make a dog reliable around unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

The Basenji needs daily physical exercise and mental activity, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Combine walks, opportunities to sniff, short training sessions and the chance to move more freely in a completely secure place. Adjust the amount and intensity for age, health, fitness and recovery.

Training works best when cooperation is rewarding. Use food, play, movement or access to something the dog wants to investigate. Short, clear and varied tasks often work better than drilling. Reward-based methods have better support for learning and welfare than pain, intimidation or physical corrections.

Start recall training early, but do not rely on recall as the only safeguard. Where wildlife may appear, a lead, long line or fully enclosed area is safer than expecting training to override hunting interest. Make sure gates and fencing are secure for your dog; a set-up is not safe merely because it worked for another Basenji.

Tracking, scent work and lure coursing, a simulated chase of an artificial lure, can provide controlled outlets for the breed's hunting and tracking ability. Attention, walking on a loose lead, exchanging found objects, accepting handling and settling are just as important. With a puppy, prioritise calm exposure to the world, playful learning and gradual increases in physical demands.

## Health

The best-documented breeding concerns are Fanconi syndrome and eye disease, particularly PRA-BJ1 and other Basenji retinopathy/PRA. Ask to see the results for both parents and find out what each examination covers; the word “health-tested” is not enough.

Fanconi syndrome is an inherited disorder in which the kidney tubules fail to reabsorb electrolytes and nutrients normally, so important substances are lost in the urine. Increased thirst and urination, together with glucose in the urine, are recognised signs and require veterinary assessment. A DNA test is available for Basenjis. Under the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, a carrier may be mated to a genetically clear dog; two carriers must not be mated together.

Eye health requires more than a single DNA result. The PRA-BJ1 test concerns one identified variant, while another form of Basenji retinopathy/PRA is detected by eye examination. A clear PRA-BJ1 result therefore does not exclude every form of inherited eye disease. Persistent pupillary membrane, or PPM, also occurs; mild findings do not usually affect sight, while more extensive findings need separate assessment.

It is important to distinguish binding rules from the breed club's breeding work. Under the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules, the Basenji has no breed-specific requirement for an official HD, eye or DNA result; its special provision concerns colour coding. The breed strategy approved in 2024 instead describes the club's puppy listing and requirements or recommendations concerning Fanconi, PRA-BJ1, eye examination and hip X-rays. SKK registration therefore does not prove that all these checks have been completed.

Ask the breeder for documents showing the dog's identity, examination date and result. Check in particular:

- the Fanconi results for both parents and that any carrier has been mated to a clear dog.
- the PRA-BJ1 results for both parents, together with current eye examination results.
- whether the parents have been X-rayed for HD, even though the breed club recommends rather than requires this.
- whether the puppy's veterinary examination recorded an umbilical hernia; a small fat-filled hernia is not the same as a large one.
- recurring kidney, eye, mobility or temperament problems in parents, siblings and older close relatives.

## History & Origins

The Basenji comes from Central Africa and has been used as a hunting dog, including to drive game towards traps. The dogs hunt by both sight and scent. The work requires cooperation as well as independent decisions, helping to explain the breed's combination of close attachment and self-reliance.

The documented Western breeding history took hold in England during the 1930s. Breeding outside Africa initially relied on few dogs and consequently had a narrow genetic base. Later imports from the Congo, including those in the late 1980s and the 2000s, introduced additional genetic material.

The Basenji arrived in Sweden in 1951 through imports from England, although breeding did not gather pace until the 1970s. Brindle was accepted in the breed standard in 1999 following later African imports.

Dogs resembling Basenjis appear in old depictions, and the breed is often described as very ancient. These similarities show that the dog type has deep historical roots, but they do not establish an unbroken pedigree from antiquity to the registered Basenji of today. It is more accurate to distinguish the old dog type from the documented history of modern breeding.

## Living with the Breed

The fact that a Basenji does not bark like other dogs does not mean a silent home. Yodels, howls and whines may carry, and individuals vary in how vocal they are. Flat living can work if exercise, scent work, rest and safe outdoor access are properly arranged; the type of home does not replace activity or calm training.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure in its new home. At first, step only behind a gate or outside the door briefly, then increase the time while the dog remains calm. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult dog's ability cannot be predicted from its breed. Ask how the parents and mature relatives cope with rest and brief separations, and arrange help if your routine asks more than your dog can comfortably manage.

If there is a cat in the home, first give it a dog-free area, its own resources and escape routes. Begin with separation and scent swapping, then move to brief meetings through a gate with the dog on a lead, rewarding calm behaviour. Prevent every attempt to chase. Do not leave the animals unattended together until both have repeatedly remained calm. If the dog continues to fixate or chase, keep the animals separate.

Many Basenji bitches have a pronounced seasonal cycle and often come into season in autumn in the Nordic region, so many litters are born late in the year. Documented exceptions occur outside the main season. Do not plan either dog management or a puppy purchase on the assumption that every bitch will invariably come into season once at exactly the same time.

Before choosing a Basenji, make sure you can answer yes to the following:

- I want to live with an independent dog and can train without demanding unquestioning obedience.
- I can provide daily exercise, scent work and controlled opportunities to use the dog's natural abilities.
- I have a safe plan involving a lead, long line or enclosure wherever wildlife may appear.
- Everyone in the home can respect the dog's resting place and recognise when it wants space.
- I have seen the parents' actual Fanconi, PRA-BJ1 and eye results and understand the combination.
- I have asked about vocal behaviour, time alone, chasing, umbilical hernias and health in mature close relatives, rather than only meeting the puppies.

The Basenji is the right choice when independence, hunting instinct and unusual vocalisations are treated as everyday traits, not details that training will erase. With safe routines and reward-based cooperation, the breed can become a close and distinctive companion.

Basenji

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The Basenji Club of Great Britain

Basenji: small, athletic African hound, 40–43 cm and 9–12 kg, with short coat, curled tail and wrinkled forehead. Often “barkless,” it yodels instead. Clean, independent, intelligent and strong-willed, it needs patient positive training, secure fencing, and regular mental and physical exercise.

Mi Mijas är en uppfödare av rasen Basenji med bas i Alingsås i Sverige. Kennelnamnet har använts för basenji sedan 2020.

Mi Mijas

Lina Carlsson

Sågsvedjans

Bo Jansson

## Quick Facts

- The Shih Tzu is a small, purebred companion dog with roots in Tibet and development in China; Great Britain holds responsibility for the breed standard.
- The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. The FCI recognises one Shih Tzu, not separate “mini”, “imperial” or “teacup” varieties.
- Typical traits include a friendly yet independent nature, an alert expression and a sturdy body that is slightly longer than it is tall.
- The long coat requires substantial care. A shorter pet trim reduces the workload but does not remove the need for brushing, bathing and checking the eyes, ears, paws and skin.
- Free, quiet breathing, non-prominent eyes and a functional mouth matter more than an extremely short muzzle or an exaggerated coat.
- A Shih Tzu can thrive in a flat, but still needs daily movement, mental stimulation and social contact.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shih Tzu is small but sturdily built, not a delicate miniature dog. The body length from the withers to the root of the tail should exceed the height at the withers. The chest is broad and deep, and the high-set tail is carried in a curve over the back. The head is broad and round. The muzzle is short and wide, but the nostrils should be well open and the eyes large without being prominent.

The breed standard sets a maximum height at the withers of 27 centimetres and a weight of 4.5–8 kilograms. Breed type and sound function should take priority over trying to produce the smallest possible dog. Terms such as “imperial” and “teacup” therefore do not describe recognised size varieties of the breed.

The coat consists of long, dense outer hair and a moderate undercoat that should not be woolly. It may be straight or slightly wavy, and all colours are permitted. The hair on the head creates the characteristic chrysanthemum-like expression, but it must not obstruct the dog’s vision. The coat must never be so long or heavy that it restricts movement.

A Shih Tzu in a full-length coat needs a consistent routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes regular baths, thorough drying and combing to prevent mats. Hair around the face needs to be kept clear of the eyes, and the coat should be worked through down to the skin so that small tangles do not become large and painful.

A clipped Shih Tzu is easier to care for, but not maintenance-free. The coat continues to grow and needs brushing, washing and clipping at an interval that suits the individual coat and daily life. The breed should not be described as hypoallergenic: how a person reacts to a dog cannot be determined by the coat’s appearance or the amount of visible hair in the home.

## Temperament & Personality

The Shih Tzu should be friendly, lively, alert and independent. This companion dog often enjoys taking part in family life, but its independence may show when the dog sees no point in a task. That gives the breed character and humour, but does not make every individual automatically cooperative in every situation.

Temperament varies between individuals and is shaped by breeding, early experiences and everyday training. The breed’s friendliness is therefore no guarantee that every Shih Tzu will love all children, dogs or cats. Life with children works best when they can handle the dog calmly, leave it undisturbed while resting and avoid carrying it without help. Young children and the dog should always have an adult close by.

Meetings with other dogs and cats should be built up gradually. A calm introduction and the option to move away matter more than the assumption that the breed always gets along with everyone. Some individuals are open from the start; others need more time.

A Shih Tzu may bark at sounds and visitors, but the amount of vocalisation varies and can be influenced by daily routines. Reward calm behaviour, give the dog an alternative to rushing to the door and avoid accidentally turning every alert bark into a major event.

## Training & Exercise

The Shih Tzu needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, even though the breed is not built for prolonged, strenuous work. Several walks with time to sniff, short play sessions and small training tasks usually provide a better day than one monotonous route. Distance and intensity must be adjusted to the dog’s age, fitness, the weather and its ability to breathe.

Short, clear training sessions suit the breed’s combination of intelligence and independence. Reward the behaviour you want and work on one thing at a time: engagement, recall, handling, lead walking and settling. House training is easier with frequent chances to go outside, predictable routines and an immediate reward outdoors; there is no evidence that every Shih Tzu is unusually easy or difficult to house-train.

Heat and breathing should determine the level of activity. A Shih Tzu that breathes with effort or noise, quickly loses pace or struggles to recover should not be pushed further. Exercise during cooler parts of the day in warm weather, and ask a veterinarian to assess recurring breathing noise or reduced stamina. Snoring and rattling breathing should not be dismissed as normal simply because the breed is short-muzzled.

Time alone should be taught gradually, starting with very short periods. Increase the duration only while the dog remains calm, and adjust the plan if it shows anxiety or discomfort. In Sweden, dogs must receive physical and mental activity every day and should be taken out at least every six hours during the daytime; puppies and older dogs generally need more frequent opportunities.

## Health

The main health checks for a Shih Tzu concern breathing, eyes, and the mouth and teeth. The breed can live a long life, and a large British veterinary-record study found an overall disorder pattern closer to dogs in general than to several other flat-faced breeds. That does not mean the risks associated with a shortened skull can be ignored.

The Shih Tzu can be affected by brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, BOAS. In a 2026 British study of 42 Shih Tzus, the breed was assessed as having a moderate risk of BOAS, and just under half of the dogs received grade 0. The sample was small and cannot describe the health of an individual dog, but it shows why breathing must be assessed in practice. Open nostrils, quiet breathing at rest and in motion, normal recovery and a healthy body condition are important signs. The study also found an association between body condition and BOAS grade in Shih Tzus.

The Respiratory Function Grading Scheme, or RFG Scheme, is a standardised functional assessment of breathing. In 2026, the Swedish Kennel Club decided to introduce central recording of RFG results for Shih Tzus, but assessments can start only when trained veterinarians and the technical procedures are in place. Ask the breeder which breathing assessments have actually been completed and check the current status with the Swedish Kennel Club.

The eyes should be large but not prominent. The Swedish Kennel Club’s breed-specific instructions identify excessively prominent eyes as a risk area, while British health guidance recommends eye screening before breeding. Seek veterinary care promptly if the dog suddenly squints, rubs an eye, or develops marked redness, cloudiness or heavy discharge; corneal injuries are painful and need examination.

The mouth is another priority because the Swedish instructions warn about a narrow lower jaw and poor dental status. In a British study of 11,082 Shih Tzus, disease affecting the gums and supporting structures of the teeth was the most frequently recorded diagnosis. The same study also highlighted anal sac, ear and eye disorders. Daily brushing with dog toothpaste is the most effective home care against plaque; veterinary checks are still needed when tartar, bad breath, bleeding gums or difficulty chewing appear.

The study reported an average age at death of 12.7 years in the British population examined. This is a population measure, not a promise for an individual dog.

## History & Origins

The Shih Tzu has its roots in Tibet but was developed as a breed in China, where dogs of this type lived in the imperial palaces. The FCI lists Tibet (China) as the country of origin and Great Britain as the country responsible for the breed standard. The breed belongs to the companion-dog group and has never been subject to a working trial requirement.

The first documented import to Great Britain took place in 1931. Shih Tzus were initially shown alongside Lhasa Apsos, but differences in the head and overall type led to the Shih Tzu being recognised as a separate breed in 1934. It was registered separately by the British kennel club in 1940. The breed reached Scandinavia during the 1930s.

The verified history is clear without romantic embellishment: Tibetan roots, development in China and later standardisation in Great Britain. Today’s friendly but independent companion dog reflects the role the breed has long held close to people.

## Living with the Breed

The Shih Tzu is best suited to someone who wants a small, social companion and accepts that the coat, eyes, teeth and breathing require ongoing attention. The breed can suit both flats and houses; what matters is not the size of the home but whether the dog receives movement, scent work, rest, company and regular opportunities to go outside.

Daily life is easiest when grooming, toothbrushing and handling are introduced early in small steps. A dog kept in a short trim still needs to become comfortable with a brush, comb, bath, hair dryer, paw checks and touch around the face. Plan for recurring clipping at home or by a professional groomer as well.

Before choosing a puppy, meet the mother and preferably more adult relatives in normal movement, not only while they are sitting still. Listen to their breathing before and after a short walk, look for open nostrils and eyes that are not prominent, and ask how the breeder monitors the eyes, mouth and teeth, and respiratory function. Ask to see the available examination results and compare them with current information from the Swedish Kennel Club.

The breed is less suitable if the dog will regularly be left alone for long days, if daily coat care is unrealistic or if you want a dog for strenuous exercise in warm weather. For a home that appreciates a close companion who is not always eager to comply, the Shih Tzu can be a very enjoyable choice, provided sound function takes priority over extreme appearance.

Shih Tzu

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

Small, sturdy companion dog from Tibetan and Chinese palaces, 4.5–8 kg with a long, flowing coat and chrysanthemum-like face. Affectionate, cheerful, and confident, it suits many homes. Needs moderate exercise, intensive grooming, and patient, reward-based training.

Laggargårdens är en uppfödare av rasen Shih tzu med bas i Herrljunga i Sverige. Uppfödningen av shih tzu går tillbaka till omkring 2010.

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