## Quick Facts

The Rottweiler is a powerful medium-to-large German working dog for someone who wants to train regularly, can manage the dog’s strength and has time for both physical and mental activity. It can form a close bond with its family, but the breed’s guarding instinct and willingness to work make the choice of breeder, early training and reliable everyday control particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany. The breed is recognised by the FCI and has worked as a guard, cattle, draught, police and service dog.
- **Size:** males stand 61–68 cm and females 56–63 cm at the withers. As a rough guide, an adult male weighs about 50 kg and a female about 42 kg, although height, sex and build all affect weight.
- **Coat:** a short, dense double coat that is brushed and bathed as needed.
- **Activity:** needs daily exercise, scent work or another mental task, together with ongoing everyday training.
- **Important before buying:** check the parents’ temperament assessment records, hip and elbow results, and DNA results for POANV, formerly called JLPP.

A Rottweiler is rarely the easiest choice for an inexperienced owner. A well-prepared first-time owner can succeed, but should plan for puppy classes, continued obedience training and support from a breeder or working-dog club that knows the breed.

## Appearance & Coat

The Rottweiler is a medium-to-large dog with a compact, muscular body. It should look strong without being cumbersome; its build should also suggest agility and endurance. The head is broad, the ears are triangular and dropped, and the black coat has clearly defined reddish-brown markings.

The coat consists of coarse topcoat over a dense undercoat. It is easy to care for, but the dog does shed and will need more frequent brushing at those times. There is no useful bathing timetable that suits every Rottweiler: bathe the dog when dirty and brush as needed, especially during heavier shedding. Check the nails, ears, skin and teeth at the same time so that changes are noticed early.

Weight should be considered together with body shape, not against a number alone. A dog in good body condition has a visible waist, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Regular body-condition checks are especially valuable for a heavy dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, good-natured, courageous and willing worker that is steady and alert to its surroundings. This describes the aim of breeding, not how every Rottweiler will behave. Genetics, early experiences, health, training and the situation itself all affect the individual dog.

A Rottweiler’s guarding instinct does not make the breed aggressive by definition. However, alertness, independence, prey interest, a desire to grip and tug during play, and great physical strength can be difficult to manage in a dog that is fearful, easily stressed or poorly trained. It is therefore more useful to investigate the parents’ actual behaviour than to accept general descriptions such as “nice” or “safe”.

Ask to see the parents’ MH results and ask the breeder how the dogs reacted to social contact, surprises, noise, play and lingering fear. MH records reactions in standardised situations; simply completing an MH is not a quality grade. Look at close relatives as well and, if possible, meet at least the dam in an ordinary setting.

A Rottweiler can live successfully in a family with children, but the breed name is no guarantee of child-friendly behaviour. A responsible adult should always be present with a dog and young children, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. An adult should handle walks because a young or excited Rottweiler may be too strong for a child to hold.

## Training & Exercise

A Rottweiler needs to move and use its brain every day, but a fixed number of exercise hours is misleading. Requirements vary with age, health, fitness and activity. Plan a routine that includes walks, calm recovery, scent work and short training sessions, then adjust the amount according to how the dog actually responds.

Tracking, search work, obedience, rally obedience and well-planned outdoor activities provide both cooperation and problems to solve. The breed may also enjoy draught work or other physically demanding activities once the dog is mature, healthy and gradually conditioned for them. A large volume of training does not replace the ability to settle, so practise calm behaviour and quiet routines too.

Start early with handling, lead walking, recall, calm greetings and turning away from people, animals or objects on cue. Reward the behaviour you want and make the rules easy to understand. Avoid methods based on fear, force or pain; they have no place in modern dog training and are not a shortcut to controlling a strong dog.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for the dog to notice people, dogs and new environments without having to approach or react strongly. A good class helps the owner read the dog’s signals and train at an appropriate level. Continue throughout adolescence, when physical strength often develops faster than self-control.

## Health

The most important documented health checks for a Rottweiler concern hips, elbows and POANV/JLPP. The breed has health programmes for hip dysplasia, HD, elbow dysplasia, ED, and the inherited neurological disease POANV, formerly called JLPP. Eye conditions also occur, and many breeders have their dogs’ eyes examined.

Ask the breeder to show official results and verify them yourself through the Swedish Kennel Club’s services. For HD and ED, it is relevant to consider both the parents’ own radiographic results and the planned litter’s preliminary index. The Swedish Rottweiler Club encourages a preliminary litter index of at least 101 for both HD and ED in its additional recommendations. An index uses more information than one dog’s result, but it cannot guarantee that a puppy will be free of joint problems.

POANV/JLPP is inherited recessively. A carrier is normally healthy but can pass on the variant. The point is not to exclude every carrier automatically, but to ensure that DNA status has been officially verified and that the mating cannot produce affected puppies. Ask the breeder to explain both parents’ results and how they were used when planning the mating.

Also ask about eye examinations and the health of older close relatives. Long lists of every condition ever diagnosed in a Rottweiler are less useful than documented results and recurring problems in the family concerned. Many Rottweilers live for about 8–10 years, but lifespan varies and cannot be predicted for an individual dog.

Keep the dog in good body condition, build fitness gradually and seek veterinary advice for lameness, clear signs of pain, changes in breathing or neurological symptoms. Preventive care does not replace a veterinary assessment when a dog shows signs of illness.

## History & Origins

The Rottweiler developed in and around the German town of Rottweil as a practical guard and cattle dog. The name Rottweiler Metzgerhund refers to the town’s butchers, who selected dogs for working ability and used them to drive and guard cattle, protect property and pull loads.

The official breed history links older dogs of this type to the cattle dogs of Roman times. The breed’s later development is associated with Rottweil and the dogs’ practical work there. When suitable police dogs were being sought in the early twentieth century, the Rottweiler was tested and the breed was approved as a police dog in 1910.

That working background is still evident. Today the Rottweiler is kept as a working, service and companion dog, and traits such as endurance, watchfulness and willingness to cooperate need a thoughtful outlet even in a dog that lives primarily as a family member.

## Living with the Breed

A Rottweiler can live in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, training and rest. A garden is convenient but does not replace walks or shared activities. Consider the distance to suitable exercise areas, stairs, noise transmission and whether all adults in the home can hold and handle the dog safely.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, while a secure adult dog that has been trained for it can often manage a few hours. The individual dog’s signals should determine the pace. The Swedish Board of Agriculture’s advice to take a dog out at least every six hours during the day is not a target for how long a dog should be left alone.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual animals and the introduction. Give a cat a safe area, use a gate or lead at first and reward calm behaviour. Take a step back if either animal is frightened or if the dog fixes its gaze and becomes overexcited. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions have been consistently safe over time. The same caution applies to meetings with other dogs; early socialisation does not guarantee that an adult dog will enjoy every other dog.

The owner is responsible for ensuring that the dog does not disturb or frighten people or other animals in public. For a Rottweiler, this means that lead walking, recall and the ability to disengage from distractions must work before a situation becomes difficult. The dog’s actual behaviour, the environment and the owner’s ability to intervene determine how much control a situation requires.

### Checks before buying

- Meet the parents and ask about their behaviour in daily life, not only during training or at shows.
- Read the MH results and ask about fear, sociability, play and recovery in the parents and close relatives.
- Verify official HD and ED results and the planned litter’s preliminary index.
- Verify both parents’ official POANV/JLPP status and ask about eye examinations.
- Describe your daily life honestly to the breeder and ask what support is available during puppyhood and adolescence.

The Rottweiler is best suited to a home where its willingness to work is part of daily life, not something addressed by an occasional long walk. Someone who enjoys regular training, clear routines and substantial responsibility can gain a close and versatile dog; someone mainly seeking an undemanding companion should choose a less demanding breed.

Rottweiler

The Kennel Club (UK)

Svenska Rottweilerklubben (Swedish Rottweiler Club)

Norwegian Kennel Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Deutscher Rottweiler-Klub (German Rottweiler Club)

The Rottweiler is a strong, medium‑large working dog with a short black coat and rust markings. Calm, loyal, and family‑oriented, it tends to be reserved with strangers. It needs kind, consistent training, daily mental and physical exercise, and responsible ownership to thrive.

Celso Prio är en uppfödare av rasen Rottweiler med bas i Alingsås i Sverige. Verksamheten har dokumenterade kullar från perioden november 2013 till augusti 2020.

Celso Prio

## Quick Facts

- The Saint Bernard is a Swiss giant breed now kept mainly as a companion, watchdog and farm dog. The breed is also used for tracking and search work.
- Under the breed standard, males should stand 70–90 cm at the withers and females 65–80 cm. The Swedish Kennel Club gives approximately 60–100 kg as a rough guide, but weight is not specified in the breed standard itself.
- The breed comes in short-haired and long-haired varieties. Both have a plentiful undercoat.
- The breed standard describes the temperament as friendly, vigilant and calm to lively. That is an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual.
- Its sheer size affects every part of daily life: space, transport, training, food and veterinary care all require more planning than they would for a smaller dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Saint Bernard should be large and powerful, yet harmonious and capable of sound movement. The standard sets an upper height of 90 cm for males and 80 cm for females, although a taller dog may be tolerated if it remains proportionate and moves correctly. This does not remove the upper heights from the standard or make the largest possible dog the ideal. When meeting adult dogs, look at whether they carry their weight without difficulty and move with stability and ease.

The short-haired variety has dense, glossy, close-lying outer hair and a plentiful undercoat. The long-haired variety has a straight, medium-length outer coat, also with a plentiful undercoat; it may be slightly wavy over the croup and hips and forms feathering on the legs. The base colour is white with red patches or a red mantle over the back and flanks. Shades range from clear red to dark red, and a dark mask is desirable.

Coat care should follow the coat type and its actual condition. The long-haired variety needs a thorough brush at least once a week to prevent tangles, and more often when undercoat is coming loose or the coat has become wet and dirty. The short coat should also be checked so that loose undercoat, skin changes and sore areas are noticed. Pay particular attention to dense areas and places where a collar or harness rests. Bathe the dog when it is genuinely dirty rather than following a fixed timetable.

Some Saint Bernards drool heavily, while others drool far less. Meet adult relatives if the amount of drool could affect your choice of breed. Keeping a towel near the water bowl is generally more realistic than expecting a dry-mouthed dog.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Saint Bernard should be friendly and vigilant, with a temperament that may range from calm to fairly lively. The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed as harmonious and family-oriented, but the label “nanny dog” is misleading. No dog should be expected to tolerate climbing, tight hugs or being disturbed while eating or resting.

Around children, the dog's size matters just as much as its temperament. A responsible adult must always manage the interaction, teach the child to let the dog move away and prevent boisterous play in which someone could be knocked over. A calm individual may fit a family with children very well, but assess the actual dog rather than relying on the breed's reputation.

The same care is needed around other dogs and cats. The breed standard makes no promise about compatibility with other species. Make introductions in a controlled way, provide separate resting areas and interrupt play that becomes too physical. Even friendly play can be risky for a small dog or cat because of the difference in size. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around unfamiliar dogs, visitors, handling and unexpected noises. That tells you more than broad claims that the breed is always sociable, quiet or protective.

## Training & Exercise

Training should begin while the Saint Bernard is still physically manageable. Prioritise walking on a loose lead, greeting people calmly with all four paws on the ground, returning when called and waiting when asked. Also teach the puppy to be comfortable while you inspect its mouth, handle its paws and check its body. Early socialisation, lead training and puppy classes are particularly valuable for a dog that will grow so large. Work in small steps and reward the calm behaviour you want to see again.

The breed needs physical and mental activity every day, but a universal number of minutes would be misleading. The appropriate length and intensity of walks, search games and tracking sessions depend on the dog's age, health and fitness as well as the weather. A relaxed pace does not mean that the dog can do without movement; good muscle condition and safe everyday habits matter for such a heavy body.

Puppies grow rapidly. The Swedish Kennel Club recommends avoiding long walks during the first year. Instead, let the puppy move in shorter sessions, explore different environments and rest between activities. Increase distance and difficulty gradually, according to the individual dog's development rather than a fixed age that is supposed to suit every dog.

Take particular care in warm weather. Thick-coated dogs are among those that can be more heat-sensitive. Exercise during cooler parts of the day, provide water and stop if the dog pants persistently, drools unusually heavily, develops dry red mucous membranes, seems confused or becomes weak. Suspected heatstroke calls for cooling with cool, not ice-cold, water and prompt contact with a vet.

## Health

In Sweden, the main points to check are joint results, sound construction and whether you can recognise gastric dilatation-volvulus. Hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia, usually shortened to HD and ED, occur in the breed. For a litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have official HD and ED status before mating, and official hip radiographs for a Saint Bernard are not taken before 18 months of age. Known status means that a result has been recorded; it does not automatically mean that the dog is free from dysplasia. Ask to see the actual grades rather than accepting only that the parents have been “tested”. Dogs with ED grade 2 or 3, clinical ED or previous ED surgery are excluded from breeding under current Swedish Kennel Club rules.

The breed is also included in the Swedish Kennel Club's Breed Specific Instructions, or BSI. These flag an oversized and excessively heavy head, too much facial skin, loose lip pockets and eyelids that are loose, oversized or turned inwards. This gives a buyer concrete points to observe: the eyes should look healthy, the skin should not be irritated, the mouth and teeth should function properly, and the dog should move powerfully without difficulty. An impressive appearance must never take priority over function.

A veterinary study found an increased risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus in Saint Bernards. This is an acute, life-threatening emergency in which time matters. Unproductive retching, a rapidly swelling abdomen, restlessness, panting, abdominal pain and difficulty lying down all require immediate contact with a vet. Do not wait to see whether the signs pass. No simple home routine can reduce the risk to zero; discuss the individual dog's risk and any preventive options with your vet.

The rapidly growing puppy needs suitable food in quantities matched to its growth. Follow advice from the breeder and vet, and monitor body condition and movement over time rather than trying to make the puppy grow as quickly as possible.

## History & Origins

The documented history of the Saint Bernard begins at the Great St Bernard Pass between Switzerland and Italy. A hospice was founded there in the 11th century. Large mountain dogs were kept at the hospice from the mid-17th century for protection and guarding; they appear in pictures from 1695 and in the hospice records from 1707. The dogs later accompanied and searched for travellers who had become lost in snow and fog.

Barry, who lived from 1800 to 1814, became the breed's most famous rescue dog and is credited with more than 40 rescues in Swiss historical accounts. This is a historical attribution, not modern documentation of every individual rescue. The small cask of spirits around the neck is chiefly part of the breed's popular image. Its origin is disputed, and sources within the Swedish Kennel Club describe the cask as a myth rather than equipment used in real rescue work.

In 1867, Heinrich Schumacher began keeping pedigree records for his dogs. When the Swiss stud book opened in 1884, a Saint Bernard named Leon was its first entry, and the Swiss breed club was founded that same year. In 1887 the breed standard was adopted and the Saint Bernard was officially declared a Swiss breed. Today's dogs live mainly as companions and farm dogs, although tracking and search work still connect them to their history.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Saint Bernard means planning around the dog's size. A flat is not automatically unsuitable, but the dog must be able to turn, rest and pass through the home without the space becoming cramped. Consider stairs, a lift being out of service, how the dog will get into a car and how you would assist a sick or older dog. Food, sturdy equipment, transport and veterinary care also often cost more than they do for a smaller dog, although no fixed amount can be predicted.

Do not expect a Saint Bernard to stay alone throughout a working day. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and an adult must first be taught gradually to cope on its own. Begin with very brief separations when the dog feels secure and has settled, increasing the time only while it remains calm. A trained adult may cope for a few hours, but no single time limit suits every individual.

Before buying, check three things:

1. Ask for the parents' exact official HD and ED results and whether close relatives have had joint or movement problems.
2. Ideally, meet adult dogs and observe temperament, eyes, skin, mouth, movement and handling — not only size and head type.
3. Make a realistic plan for space, the car, warm weather, time alone, everyday training and assistance if the dog is one day unable to walk unaided.

The breed is best suited to someone who appreciates a very large dog but puts function, calm habits and sharing everyday life ahead of maximum mass or romantic rescue-dog myths.

Saint Bernard

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

Deutscher Club für Leonberger Hunde (DCLH)

Vétérinaire Santé (France)

Large, gentle mountain dog developed by Swiss monks for rescue and companionship. Calm and affectionate, especially with children, but very big, drooly, and heavy shedding. Needs moderate exercise, careful joint and health management, and close inclusion in family life.

Countrystar's är en uppfödare av rasen Sankt bernhardshund med bas i Bredared i Sverige. Uppfödningen omfattar både korthåriga och långhåriga sankt bernhardshundar.

Countrystar's

Hultåskulles är en uppfödare av rasen Rottweiler med bas i Fjärås i Sverige.

Hultåskulles

## Quick Facts

In Sweden, the Collie is registered as two separate breeds: the Rough Collie, FCI 156, and the Smooth Collie, FCI 296. They are often discussed together because they share a recent ancestry, the same height range and a similar build, but have different coats. The Border Collie, however, is a different breed with its own standard.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with strong historical links to Scotland.
- **Roles:** herding dog, working dog and companion.
- **Height:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females in both breeds.
- **Weight:** the Smooth Collie standard gives 20.5–29.5 kg for males and 18–25 kg for females. The Rough Collie standard gives no official weight.
- **Colours:** sable and white, tricolour and blue merle.
- **Longevity:** in a large UK study, the median for Collies as a combined category was 13.3 years. This is a figure for a large population, not a prediction for an individual dog.

A Collie is best suited to someone who wants an active life with a responsive dog and is prepared to examine temperament as carefully as appearance. Coat length makes a clear difference to grooming, but does not reliably predict how energetic, confident or easy-going an individual dog will be.

## Appearance & Coat

The Collie is agile and well balanced, combining strength and mobility without looking heavy or coarse. The long, blunt wedge-shaped head, almond-shaped eyes and ears that tip forwards help create the characteristic expression. Both breeds have the same official height range. The Smooth Collie weight range should not be treated as an official guide for the Rough Collie, whose standard does not specify a weight.

The Rough Collie has a very dense double coat. The outer coat should be straight and harsh, while the undercoat is soft, woolly and dense enough almost to hide the skin. The mane, chest, legs and tail carry more abundant hair. Brush through to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and beneath the collar. More frequent combing is needed during a moult. Bathe when necessary.

The Smooth Collie has a short, straight, harsh outer coat with a very dense undercoat. It is much easier to keep free of tangles, but it still sheds. Brushing during a moult removes loose hair and is also an opportunity to check the skin, paws and nails. The coat should not need trimming or clipping to remain manageable.

Both breeds come in sable and white, tricolour and blue merle. White markings may appear on the collar, chest, legs, feet and tail tip, among other places. Colour is a poor basis for choosing a puppy; health, temperament, everyday behaviour and the breeder’s aims matter more.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, active and cooperative dog with no nervousness or aggression. Many Collies learn quickly, pay close attention to their handler and enjoy being part of daily life. That is an excellent foundation for training, but it does not guarantee that every Collie will be confident, quiet, uncomplicated around children or easy for a first-time owner.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines, and fearfulness has been an important focus in Swedish breeding work. Ask for more than general descriptions such as ‘sweet’ or ‘sensitive’. Examine the parents’ full MH behaviour descriptions, meet adult relatives if possible, and ask how the dogs react to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces and surprises. How quickly they recover is just as important.

The Collie has a dedicated mental index based on the dog’s own MH results and those of its relatives. There are indices for curiosity/confidence, sociability, play, chase and gunshot response. A value of 100 represents the breed average; it is not a pass mark. An index should be considered alongside the full description, the wider family and the type of home or work for which the litter was bred.

The standards and the Swedish Kennel Club describe Collies as friendly towards dogs and people, but experience, health and training also shape behaviour at home. Assess the individual rather than treating coat length or breed name as a guarantee of personality.

## Training & Exercise

A Collie needs daily physical activity and tasks that make use of cooperation, concentration and curiosity. No credible number of minutes can suit a puppy, an adult competition dog and a senior equally well. Adjust effort and difficulty to the dog’s age, health, experience and recovery.

Combine walks with activities such as tracking, search work, obedience, rally, agility or simple scent games at home. Variety is more valuable than merely increasing speed or distance. Teach the dog to wait and settle as well; an active dog does not need to remain highly aroused all day.

Reward-based training, clear cues and gradually harder tasks suit a dog that enjoys working with people. Break new skills into manageable steps, reward good choices and make the exercise easier if the dog becomes uncertain or loses concentration. Harsh corrections are not a shortcut to confidence.

A Collie can suit a first-time owner who wants to train, can recognise early signs of worry and chooses a litter on the strength of documented temperament. It is a poorer match for someone drawn mainly to the appearance, looking for a fixed exercise timetable or expecting the dog to entertain itself in a garden.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the actual results matter more than being told that the parents are ‘tested’. Ask for registration numbers and check hip results, MH records, eye findings and any relevant DNA results. Registration requirements and breeding recommendations are not the same thing.

For both Collie breeds, current Swedish Kennel Club registration rules require both parents to have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. Smooth Collie breeding dogs should have grade A or B hips. A Rough Collie with grade D or E must not be used for breeding, and the Swedish Kennel Club recommends a combined parental hip index above 100. The rules therefore differ between the two breeds.

The rules also require a known mental status. For resident Swedish parents born in 2016 or later, the full MH behaviour description must be completed and all 33 positions recorded. The handler may decline the gunshot element without the dog losing its known-status designation. MH describes reactions; the dog does not pass or fail it.

Collie Eye Anomaly, or CEA, is a congenital developmental abnormality affecting the back of the eye. It ranges from CH/CRD, which often causes no vision problem noticeable in daily life, to coloboma and rarer consequences such as bleeding or retinal detachment. Do not ask only whether a dog has been ‘CEA tested’; request the exact diagnosis and the age at examination.

Current Swedish registration rules do not impose a specific eye-examination requirement on Collies. The breed club nevertheless recommends that puppies are examined before leaving the breeder and that breeding dogs are examined again as adults. The Swedish Kennel Club explains that CH/CRD is best detected in young puppies, usually at 8–10 weeks, and recommends an adult examination before first mating in at-risk breeds.

A variant in the ABCB1 gene, commonly called MDR1, can make a dog sensitive to certain medicines. Testing is relevant for both Rough and Smooth Collies. Dogs with two copies are at greatest risk, but a dog with one copy may also react. Keep the result and show it to the vet before medication is given. The test addresses this particular drug sensitivity; it is not a general certificate of health.

The Swedish Kennel Club does not permit registration of puppies produced by mating two merle Collies. Merle combined with sable is also subject to specific rules on DNA status and breeding restrictions. A puppy buyer should therefore ask how the parents’ colours and any merle variant have been established, rather than choosing solely by the puppy’s markings.

## History & Origins

The Collie is a British breed with strong Scottish associations, although its precise early origin is uncertain. The breed standard describes a background in which local dogs mixed with dogs brought to Scotland by the Romans. Rough and Smooth Collies developed from the same working stock and shared bloodlines until relatively recent times.

Collies were first shown in England in 1861. Queen Victoria’s interest later helped make them fashionable as companions and show dogs. Their working ability remained important: the elegant build and responsiveness make more sense when seen in the context of a herding and working dog, not merely an appearance ideal.

During the twentieth century, the Rough Collie in particular became closely associated with the fictional Lassie. Eric Knight created the character in *Lassie Come-Home*, and the 1943 film used a Rough Collie. The stories shaped a heroic image of the breed, but a real dog must be judged by its own temperament, health and upbringing.

## Living with the Breed

A Collie can live in a flat or a house when given enough activity, rest and company. A garden does not replace walks and shared tasks. In a block of flats, the owner should also teach calm behaviour around sounds in communal areas and prevent the dog from spending all day watching the window or front door.

An adult should supervise time with children, set clear rules and provide a resting place where the dog will not be disturbed. Children should not climb on or hug the dog, or bother it while it is eating or sleeping. Even a friendly dog can feel trapped, and an enthusiastic Collie may accidentally knock over a small child during play.

Many Collies can live with other dogs and cats, but introductions should be calm and gradual. Prevent chasing, give the cat clear escape routes and do not leave the animals alone together until their relationship is settled. Small pets need secure accommodation that the dog cannot enter or watch from close range.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. Start with very brief periods when the puppy feels safe and is calm, and increase the duration only when it can settle. The amount of time an adult dog can manage varies; use the dog’s behaviour rather than a general maximum as your guide.

Before buying, the breeder should be able to answer these questions clearly:

- Is the litter Rough or Smooth, and what are adult relatives like to live with?
- What are the parents’ hip results and, for a Rough Collie, their current hip indices?
- Have both parents completed MH, and what do MH, mental index and close relatives show about fearfulness and recovery?
- When were the puppies and parents examined by an eye specialist, and what exact CEA findings were recorded?
- What is each parent’s MDR1 status, and does the mating involve merle?

Coat length alone should not decide the choice. Look for a litter whose health, temperament and everyday behaviour across the wider family can be checked.

Collie

Svenska Kennelklubben (Sweden)

Collie Association (UK)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

The Collie is an intelligent, medium‑large herding dog with a long double coat needing regular grooming. Gentle, loyal, and sensitive, it bonds closely with family and prefers kind training. Adaptable to town or country, it needs daily mental stimulation and exercise to stay content.

Glamshine's är en uppfödare av rasen Collie med bas i Nossebro i Sverige.

Glamshine's

## Quick Facts

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium-sized, active terrier from Ireland. The breed developed as a versatile farm dog and is now kept mainly as a companion. It is typically described as lively, affectionate, intelligent and inventive, but also independent. This makes it a dog for someone who wants to devote time to training, exercise and coat care.

- **Breed group:** Group 3, terriers
- **Origin:** Ireland
- **Former use:** Farm work, vermin control and hunting
- **Size:** According to the breed standard, males should stand 46–48 cm and weigh about 18–20.5 kg; females should be somewhat smaller
- **Coat:** Single, soft and silky, in shades of wheaten
- **Activity level:** Active; needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day
- **Grooming:** Extensive and regular

The breed is best suited to an owner who appreciates a sociable dog with a clear terrier character and can provide everyday training, varied activity and thorough grooming. It is a poorer choice if you want a dog that is satisfied with short walks, needs very little care or is straightforward to train in every situation.

## Appearance & Coat

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is compact and well built without being heavy. Its body is approximately as long as the dog is tall, and the overall impression should combine strength with agility. Small forward-folding ears, dark eyes, a beard and hair over the forehead create the breed's characteristic expression.

The adult coat is the breed's most distinctive feature. It should consist of a single layer; undercoat is permitted only on the ears. The texture should feel soft and silky rather than harsh or woolly. Colour ranges from light wheaten to a warmer golden, reddish shade. The coat may be wavy or loosely curled.

A Wheaten puppy does not necessarily look like an adult dog. The puppy coat may be reddish or greyish, or have a dark mask and dark hair tips. Both colour and texture change through several stages, and the finished adult coat usually develops between 18 months and two and a half years of age. You therefore cannot tell exactly what the adult coat will be like simply by looking at the puppy's colour or softness.

The coat often leaves less loose hair around the home than breeds with pronounced seasonal shedding, but it does not look after itself. Loose hair can remain in the coat and contribute to matting. For many adult dogs, a thorough weekly comb is a reasonable starting point, while the coat-change period may require combing several times a week. Swedish breed-club and kennel-club guidance also recommends regular baths and clipping several times a year. The actual frequency depends on coat texture and length as well as the dog's daily activities.

The breed should not be described as allergy-free. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and levels vary between individuals even within the same breed. Anyone with a dog allergy should therefore seek appropriate medical advice and meet the individual dog several times before considering a purchase.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is lively, sociable with its family and quick to involve itself in whatever is happening. The breed standard describes it as spirited, affectionate, loyal and intelligent. At the same time, its independent terrier side may emerge when something in the surroundings seems more interesting than the owner's plan.

Temperament varies between individuals and bloodlines. Among dogs that have taken part in Swedish behavioural assessments, most show low levels of aggressive reactions, but the results also reveal clear variation within the breed. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to unfamiliar people, other dogs, sudden noises, handling and recovery after a surprise. If the parents have completed a BPH or MH behavioural assessment, the results can provide more concrete information than general claims about the breed.

The breed can live well with children when both dog and child learn to respect each other's boundaries. Dogs and young children should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a quiet resting place where it will not be disturbed. How an individual gets on with other dogs or other species varies. Early, calm introductions and thoughtful day-to-day management matter more than assuming that every dog will behave in the same way.

## Training & Exercise

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day. There is no fixed amount of exercise that suits every individual. An adolescent, a fit adult and an older dog require different levels of exertion, and exercise should be adjusted to fitness, health and recovery.

The breed can enjoy activities such as scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility and ordinary everyday training. Variety is often more rewarding than simply extending the walk. Search games, responsiveness exercises, body-awareness work and short problem-solving sessions can help create a better balance between activity and rest.

Start early with recall, lead walking, handling and settling calmly. The Swedish Kennel Club notes that the breed can be curious and set off on adventures of its own, so a garden needs secure fencing. Train recall systematically, but use a lead or long line in places where a failed recall could be dangerous.

Reward-based training suits an intelligent, independent dog well: reward the behaviour you want, make the task clear and increase the difficulty in small steps. Harsh corrections are unnecessary and can cause stress as well as damage cooperation. Short, engaging sessions with clear breaks are usually easier to succeed with than long periods of repetition.

## Health

Many Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers remain active well into later life, but the breed has health risks that a puppy buyer should understand. Swedish breed information particularly highlights kidney and gastrointestinal problems, along with some skin and ear conditions. The presence of a breed risk does not mean that every dog will be affected.

Two important terms are PLN and PLE. **PLN**, protein-losing nephropathy, involves protein being lost through the kidneys. **PLE**, protein-losing enteropathy, is an umbrella term for protein loss through the intestines. These conditions can be serious and may not develop until adulthood. A DNA test is available for PLN-associated risk variants, but its result is not a simple diagnosis: dogs with risk variants do not necessarily become ill, and other factors also play a part. There is no equivalent genetic test for PLE.

Recurring diarrhoea or vomiting, unexplained weight loss, swelling, increased thirst or increased urination should be assessed by a vet. These signs can have many causes and do not prove that a dog has PLE or PLN, but they should not be dismissed in a breed with known risk.

The Swedish breed club's breeding recommendations include known hip status and known DNA status for microphthalmia. Microphthalmia is a condition in which the eye has not developed normally. The club also has specific recommendations concerning close relatives of dogs affected by renal dysplasia, PLE or PLN. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose a breed-specific requirement for official hip status when registering puppies of this breed. A puppy being registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically mean that every test recommended by the breed club has been completed.

Ask the breeder to show:

- the parents' official hip results
- DNA results for microphthalmia
- PLN results, if testing has been carried out, together with a balanced explanation of what the result means
- any known occurrence of PLE, PLN or renal dysplasia among close relatives
- information about the health of the parents and older relatives over time

## History & Origins

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes from Ireland and is one of the country's four terrier breeds. Its exact early history is not fully documented. Written references to soft-coated dogs date back roughly 200 years, but claims about a more precise or older ancestry should be treated as uncertain.

Small farmers used these terriers for several tasks around the farm, including controlling vermin and helping with general work. The dogs were also used to hunt badgers and otters. The Irish Kennel Club recognised the breed in 1937, and the FCI granted definitive recognition in 1957.

The breed arrived in Sweden in 1965, and the first Swedish litter was born in 1967. It has mainly become a companion and activity dog there, although its working enthusiasm is still evident in pursuits such as tracking, scent work, obedience and agility.

## Living with the Breed

Living with an Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier means an active and sociable daily life. The breed can live in a flat or a house as long as it receives exercise, mental stimulation, regular outdoor breaks and enough rest. The size of the home matters less than what the dog's days actually look like.

Allow time for grooming every week and expect more work while the adolescent coat is changing. Ask the breeder to demonstrate combing, bathing and clipping in practice. Pay particular attention to the beard, legs, armpits, groin and the area behind the ears, where moisture and friction can easily lead to mats.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure in the home. A properly trained adult can usually be left for a few hours, but individuals vary greatly and a young puppy should not be left alone. Plan for plenty of company during puppyhood and for a daily routine in which the dog can take part in family life.

The breed suits someone who wants a cheerful, enterprising terrier and sees training and grooming as part of dog ownership. It is less suitable if minimal care, long periods alone or a dog that always puts cooperation before its own curiosity are essential requirements. Choose a breeder on the basis of documented health, stable temperament and open information about the family line, not simply the puppy's colour or a promise that the breed is easy to care for or allergy-friendly.

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Great Britain

Svenska Terrierklubben (Sweden)

Norsk Terrier Klub (Norway)

The Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a medium, athletic Irish farm terrier turned family companion, known for its silky low‑shedding wheaten coat, cheerful people‑oriented nature, strong grooming needs, lively but trainable temperament, and generally robust health with some breed‑specific risks.

Dollywood's är en uppfödare av rasen Irish softcoated wheaten terrier med bas i Rävlanda i Sverige.

Dollywood's

## Quick Facts

The American Staffordshire Terrier, often called the Amstaff, is an American terrier in FCI Group 3. Compact and exceptionally strong, it is now primarily kept as a companion. The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys active training and is prepared to take responsibility for a powerful dog in everyday situations.

- The desired height at the withers is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females.
- The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 28–33 kg for males and 19–25 kg for females, but healthy body condition and balanced proportions matter more than a single figure.
- The coat is short, close, stiff and glossy, and is generally easy to maintain.
- The breed ideal is an alert, courageous and interested dog. The Swedish Kennel Club also describes the Amstaff as sociable, active and willing to cooperate, although individuals can differ considerably.
- Anyone planning to travel with the dog must check the route in advance: the American Staffordshire Terrier is subject to breed bans in both Norway and Denmark.

The American Staffordshire Terrier is a recognised breed with its own standard. A broad skull, short coat and muscular body are therefore not enough to identify a dog as an Amstaff. For a prospective puppy owner, a registered pedigree and information about the parents are much more useful than assumptions based on appearance.

## Appearance & Coat

The American Staffordshire Terrier should be strong for its size, muscular and compact, yet still agile and mobile. Its build should look balanced rather than so heavy or exaggerated that movement is affected. The desired height is 46–48 cm for males and 43–46 cm for females. The standard requires height and weight to be in proportion but gives no weight range. The Swedish Kennel Club's figures are therefore a practical approximation, not a target weight that every dog should reach.

The coat lies close to the body and is short, stiff and glossy. A soft brush or rubber grooming mitt will often remove loose hair, while bathing can be reserved for when it is genuinely needed. Calmly accustom a puppy to having its paws, nails, ears, mouth and skin checked. This makes both routine care and future veterinary examinations easier.

Solid, parti-colour and patched coats are permitted. All-white coats, coats that are more than 80 per cent white, black and tan, and liver are not encouraged under the standard. Colour does not reliably predict temperament or health. Redness, itching, persistent paw licking or changes in the ears should be assessed as symptoms, not attributed to coat colour.

## Temperament & Personality

An American Staffordshire Terrier should be alert, curious and courageous, but breed descriptions express an ideal and population averages, not the temperament of every dog. The Swedish Kennel Club's behavioural assessment data show relatively high sociability and energy at breed level, alongside substantial variation between individuals. Upbringing, experience and training matter, but the behaviour of close relatives is also relevant when choosing a puppy.

Ask the breeder to explain the parents' BPH behavioural assessments and, where available, their mental index using specific everyday examples. Find out how they respond to unfamiliar people, sudden noises, new surfaces, handling and other dogs. Ideally, meet the dam and other close relatives. The label ‘sociable’ reveals far less than a description of how a dog recovers after an unexpected event.

This is a physically powerful breed that can be forceful. Calm, managed encounters are therefore more valuable than expecting the dog to greet everyone. Neither breed nor sex can determine whether an Amstaff will live safely with a particular dog, cat or small animal. Assess the individual dog's previous experience, interest in chasing or play, and ability to disengage and settle.

When introducing a cat, make sure the cat has protected spaces and can leave at any time. Use a gate or another secure barrier, keep early sessions short and calm, and prevent chasing from the outset. Do not leave the animals alone together until their behaviour is well understood, and accept that some pairings will never be safe.

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a family with children, but an adult must always take responsibility for their interactions. Children should leave the dog undisturbed while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a protected space of its own. Because of the breed's strength, children should not handle the dog alone in situations where a sudden lunge or encounter with another dog may be difficult to control.

## Training & Exercise

The American Staffordshire Terrier needs physical activity and mental stimulation every day, but there is no single number of hours that suits every dog. A young dog, a fit adult and a dog with pain or joint disease require different plans. Adjust the level to age, health, recovery and how the dog behaves at home after exercise. The aim is a well-conditioned dog that can switch between activity and rest, not a dog exhausted at any cost.

Walks can be combined with scent work, tracking, obedience and short problem-solving activities. The Swedish Kennel Club highlights nosework, tracking and obedience as suitable pursuits. Increase duration and load gradually, and keep the dog at a healthy body condition. If the dog suddenly moves differently, hesitates before jumping into the car or recovers more slowly, ask a vet to investigate the cause. Do not try to solve the change by adding more exercise.

Everyday training should begin early and use rewards, clear routines and manageable steps. The following skills are particularly useful for a strong American Staffordshire Terrier:

- walking on a loose lead and turning away from an approaching dog;
- a well-rehearsed recall and a cue to leave an object or situation;
- calm greetings without jumping or pulling;
- waiting and settling calmly behind a gate or other barrier;
- relaxed handling of paws, nails, ears, mouth and body.

Training that relies on pain, fear or harsh corrections can damage both trust and learning. Reward the behaviour you want, make an exercise easier when the dog struggles, and seek help from a knowledgeable trainer early if the dog's strength or reactions become difficult to manage.

## Health

Hips, elbows, skin and cruciate ligaments are important areas to ask about in the American Staffordshire Terrier. The Swedish Kennel Club identifies hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cruciate ligament problems and skin conditions involving itching, rashes, red paws and allergy. This does not mean every dog will be affected. Ask for specific information about parents, siblings and previous litters rather than accepting a general claim of ‘healthy lines’.

For Swedish-registered breeding, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating; American Staffordshire Terriers must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. A recorded result only means that the assessment exists, not that the joint is necessarily unaffected, so check the actual grades. The breed club's breeding strategy also recommends that a proposed litter's preliminary hip and elbow indices exceed 100. This is a breeding recommendation and should not be confused with the registration rules.

NCL-A is an inherited neurological disorder that affects the cerebellum and can cause balance and coordination problems, often first appearing between three and five years of age. It is inherited as an autosomal recessive condition with incomplete penetrance. DNA results are recorded as normal, carrier or genetically affected. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog, but two carriers must not be mated and a genetically affected dog must not be used for breeding. Ask to see the registered results and understand how the proposed pairing has been planned.

When assessing a litter, check:

- the parents' exact hip and elbow results and the litter's preliminary indices;
- NCL-A status and how the results affect the proposed mating;
- BPH assessments and mental index where available, supported by examples of close relatives' everyday behaviour;
- skin disease, cruciate injuries and other recurring problems among parents, siblings and earlier offspring.

## History & Origins

The American Staffordshire Terrier developed in the United States from bull-and-terrier dogs brought by immigrants during the nineteenth century. The American parent club records dogs of this type in the country by about 1870. The history includes a background in dog fighting, but the modern breed's official standard and breeding should be judged against today's expectations for function, health and temperament.

In 1936, the American Kennel Club admitted the dogs to its Stud Book as Staffordshire Terriers. The name changed to American Staffordshire Terrier on 1 January 1972 to distinguish the breed from the newly recognised Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The first American Staffordshire Terrier was registered with the Swedish Kennel Club in 1991.

These dates explain the changes in name, but they do not make every similar-looking dog the same breed. For today's puppy buyer, a verifiable pedigree, documented health information and knowledge of close relatives are more valuable than loose labels such as ‘pit bull type’.

## Living with the Breed

An American Staffordshire Terrier can live in a flat if it receives enough activity, recovery time and a secure routine. The size of the home matters less than how daily life is organised. In a block of flats, the owner must be able to manage the dog safely in corridors, lifts and confined spaces, prevent nuisance noise and arrange walks without every outing being dominated by difficult encounters with other dogs.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a settled adult should, after careful training, be left for only a few hours at a time. The Swedish rule that dogs must normally be taken out at least every six hours during the day is not a recommended duration for leaving a dog alone. Plan for the puppy stage, working days and backup care before the dog arrives.

Think about physical control as well. A harness or collar must fit securely, the lead should provide a reliable grip, and the person walking the dog must be able to hold it if something unexpected happens. This is not an argument for harsh methods; it is a practical consequence of the breed's strength. Planning ahead, creating distance and teaching alternative behaviours prevent more problems than corrections delivered too late.

Travel requires particular care. American Staffordshire Terriers and their crosses are prohibited in Norway, including import into the country. Denmark also prohibits the breed and its crosses from being brought in for a stay. Denmark has a limited exception for direct transit by car without unnecessary stops, but this does not permit a holiday in the country, and rail travel is not covered by the exception. Rules can change, so always check current guidance from Norway's Mattilsynet and the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration before booking a journey or choosing a route.

The breed is best suited to an owner who enjoys structured training, can provide daily activity and has the capacity to manage a dog that is both sociable and physically demanding. If a household cannot make time for separation training, safe introductions, lead training and careful health follow-up, a less powerful or less demanding breed is often a better choice.

American Staffordshire Terrier

American Staffordshire Terrier: muscular, medium-sized, people-focused dog with a short, easy-care coat in many colors. Affectionate, energetic, and highly trainable with consistent, positive handling. Needs daily exercise, mental stimulation, socialization, and responsible management.

Bergegården's är en uppfödare av rasen American staffordshire terrier med bas i Fritsla i Sverige.

Bergegården's

Miniature Bull Terrier

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

Compact, muscular terrier with an egg-shaped head and triangular eyes. Bold, clownish and affectionate, with a strong will that needs consistent, positive training and early socialisation. Low-maintenance short coat, but demands daily exercise, mental stimulation and attentive health care.

Rapunex är en uppfödare av rasen Miniatyrbullterrier med bas i Skene i Sverige.

Rapunex

Migemelo`s

## Quick Facts

The King Charles Spaniel is a small British companion dog with a domed skull, a very short muzzle and a friendly but sometimes reserved manner. It is a distinct breed and should not be confused with the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. The Cavalier is generally larger, with a flatter skull and a longer muzzle, whereas the King Charles Spaniel is smaller, with a more domed skull and shorter muzzle.

- **Origin and purpose:** Great Britain. The breed is a toy and companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- **Size:** The breed standard specifies 3.6–6.3 kg but no set height at the withers. The Swedish Kennel Club gives about 30 cm as a practical guide and notes that many adults weigh more than 6.3 kg.
- **Temperament:** Happy, intelligent, friendly and affectionate. It may be cautious around unfamiliar people or dogs, but it should not be fearful or aggressive.
- **Coat:** Long and silky, either straight or slightly wavy. It needs a thorough groom about once a week, with particular attention behind the ears and between the toes.
- **Activity:** An adaptable walking and training companion that needs daily exercise and mental stimulation, with the pace adjusted to its size, fitness and breathing.
- **Key health checks:** Ask for documented heart and eye results. Also watch how the dog breathes, moves and recovers. An RFG result can provide further information about its breathing.

## Appearance & Coat

The King Charles Spaniel should be short and compact while still able to move freely and actively. Its clearly domed skull, very long low-set ears and large dark eyes create the characteristic expression. The muzzle is short and upturned, the nose is black, and the nostrils should be large and open. A slight undershot bite is part of the breed standard.

There are four recognised colours:

- **Black and tan:** glossy black with bright mahogany-tan markings.
- **Tricolour:** a pearly white ground with black patches and tan markings.
- **Blenheim:** a pearly white ground with chestnut-red patches.
- **Ruby:** solid bright chestnut red.

The coat should be long, silky and straight; a slight wave is allowed, but it must not be curly. The ears, legs and tail carry plentiful feathering. A thorough groom once a week is a useful starting point, although dogs with heavier feathering may need combing more often. Tease out small tangles before they mat, especially behind the ears and under or between the toes. Bathe the dog when it actually needs it, then dry the ears and skin carefully.

A breed-typical head must not become an end in itself. An excessively short muzzle, protruding eyes, a weak chest or poor foreleg conformation are identified as risk areas in the breed-specific show guidance. An adult should be able to breathe calmly and move without discomfort. Its eyes should remain free from recurrent irritation.

## Temperament & Personality

The King Charles Spaniel is fundamentally a cheerful, affectionate dog that enjoys human company and likes to take part in everyday life. Its desire to engage often makes it easy to motivate with small rewards, play and gentle encouragement.

The word “reserved” in the breed standard does not mean that the dog should be timid. A typical individual may prefer to observe a new person or dog for a while before making contact. Give it room to approach at its own pace instead of allowing strangers to pick it up or crowd it. Marked fear, aggression or an inability to cope with everyday life should not be dismissed as typical of the breed.

Individuals can differ considerably, especially within a small population. The parents’ behaviour in daily life and the breeder’s early socialisation therefore tell you more than broad promises that every King Charles Spaniel is quiet, fearless or friendly with every animal. A puppy needs positive experiences of people, sounds, surfaces, handling and calm encounters with dogs, without being pushed too far.

## Training & Exercise

The King Charles Spaniel needs daily walks, opportunities to sniff and short training sessions, but there is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. A fit adult may enjoy everyday obedience, scent work, tricks or appropriately paced rally obedience. Puppies, older dogs and individuals with breathing difficulties need a gentler routine.

Let the dog’s stamina and breathing determine the pace. It should move with free strides, breathe without pronounced noise and settle back to calm breathing after exertion. Stop and seek veterinary advice if the dog has obvious difficulty breathing or fails to recover normally. Short-muzzled dogs can find temperature regulation more difficult, so exercise at cooler times on hot days and provide water and rest.

Training works best in short, clear sessions. Reward the behaviour you want and increase the difficulty gradually; harsh corrections can make a sensitive dog more hesitant. Practise handling the ears, feet, mouth and eyes from the start because these areas need regular checks.

Being left alone is a learned skill, not an inborn trait. Begin with very short periods when the dog is settled and content, increase them slowly, and take a step back if it becomes worried. A King Charles Spaniel should not be left for so long that it repeatedly barks, howls, damages things or shows other signs of distress.

## Health

The principal documented areas of concern are the heart, the eyes and problems that can follow from the shortened skull. Because the breed has a small population, health figures from older surveys are less certain than they may appear. Ask for the results of the prospective litter’s parents and find out how close relatives have fared as adults and in later life.

### Heart and eyes

In Sweden, the King Charles Spaniel has a level 1 heart scheme. This means that examination results are registered and published by the Swedish Kennel Club, but the club does not require breeding dogs to have a heart examination. This differs from the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, which is subject to other rules. The minimum age for an official King Charles Spaniel heart examination is two years, and an approved veterinary specialist listens for murmurs using the Swedish Kennel Club’s method.

The breed club recommends more than level 1 requires: a dog used for breeding should have had a heart examination within the 12 months before mating. As a rule, a dog with a diagnosed heart defect should not be bred from. The club allows a limited exception for a male that had a clear heart certificate at seven years of age or older and develops a murmur later. Ask to see the latest certificate rather than relying on a verbal assurance that the line is healthy.

The breed club also recommends eye screening for breeding dogs after 18 months of age and for puppies between 8 and 15 weeks. The early examination can, among other things, identify the congenital eye abnormality PHTVL/PHPV. Ask to see both the puppy’s and the parents’ results and discuss any findings with a vet; completing a test does not guarantee freedom from future problems.

### Breathing, eyes and movement

The breed is included in the Breed Specific Instructions, or BSI, because exaggerated features can affect body structure, muzzle, eyes and movement. Since May 2026, RFG-Scheme results for King Charles Spaniels can be registered centrally in Sweden. The examination grades the dog’s breathing and can be completed officially from 24 months of age; earlier results are recorded as preliminary. The test is currently voluntary and is not a requirement before breeding.

Observe the dog both at rest and after exercise. Breathing should be unlaboured, the nostrils open, and the dog should soon return to calm breathing. The eyes should not protrude so far that they are easily injured, and repeated squinting, redness, cloudiness or heavy tearing needs assessment. An abnormal gait accompanied by frantic scratching or apparently unexplained pain while walking is a warning sign that requires veterinary investigation.

Such signs can occur with neurological disease, but estimates of how common the disease is in Cavalier King Charles Spaniels cannot simply be applied to King Charles Spaniels. The breed’s older Swedish breeding strategy did not describe syringomyelia as an established problem among the dogs examined at that time, while still stressing the need for vigilance. It is therefore unjustified either to promise that there is no risk or to claim that it is as high as in Cavaliers.

## History & Origins

The King Charles Spaniel developed in England from the small spaniels long kept as companions at European courts. Its name is associated with King Charles II, who ruled England and Scotland from 1660 to 1685 and was known for his small spaniels. The precise route to today’s short-muzzled breed is not securely documented, however, so stories about particular crosses should be treated as theories.

An English breed standard was written in 1885. In 1902, the colour varieties were brought together under the name King Charles Spaniel, and King Edward VII supported the breed club in retaining that name. Few British kennels remained after the Second World War, contributing to the narrow breeding base that still makes genetic diversity important.

The breed was shown in Sweden as early as 1886, and the modern type is thought to have been imported the following year. The Swedish population has remained small. This makes the choice of breeder, documented health examinations and carefully planned matings particularly important.

## Living with the Breed

The King Charles Spaniel can live well in a flat, but the size of the home is no substitute for walks, training and company. Teach calm behaviour around the front door, in lifts and when there are sounds from communal areas. The breed can be sensitive to cold, windy weather; adjust the length of walks and use a coat if the dog would otherwise become cold.

Children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult. Teach the child to leave the dog alone while it eats or sleeps, and provide the dog with a protected resting place. Its small body and prominent eyes make rough play unsuitable. Whether it can live with another dog or a cat depends on the individuals’ experience. Start with calm, controlled meetings and keep feeding places, toys and beds separate until the animals are comfortable together.

The breed is not hypoallergenic. Dog allergens are present in substances including skin flakes and saliva, and reactions can differ between people and individual dogs. Anyone with an allergy should therefore spend time indoors with the particular dog before committing to a purchase, without treating that meeting as a guarantee.

Before buying a puppy, check:

- that the breeder can explain the difference between a King Charles Spaniel and a Cavalier and is applying the correct health rules,
- the parents’ latest heart certificates and eye results, as well as the puppy’s eye examination,
- any RFG results and how the parents breathe and recover after exercise,
- that the eyes show no signs of irritation or pain and that the adult dogs move freely,
- how the breeder approaches temperament, socialisation and genetic diversity in a small population.

A responsible breeder can show you the documents, describe both the strengths and weaknesses in the line and explain why the mating was chosen. That is worth more than promises that the breed is always healthy, easy to care for or suitable for every home.

King Charles Spaniel

Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Club UK

Small, aristocratic toy spaniel with a domed head, short nose and large dark eyes, bred as a devoted lap companion. Calm indoors with moderate exercise needs, it thrives on constant human contact. Long, silky coat needs regular grooming; prone to heart, eye and brachycephalic‑related issues.

Lady Beauty's är en uppfödare av rasen King charles spaniel med bas i Kinna i Sverige.

Lady Beauty’s

## Quick Facts

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a British cattle-herding and companion breed. It is low to the ground but much more solidly built, powerful and work-focused than its short legs might suggest. It is best suited to someone who wants to train, walk and solve problems with their dog every day.

- **Size:** The breed standard gives 30 cm at the withers as the ideal height. It does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be in proportion to the dog’s size and overall balance.
- **Build:** Long and strong, with short legs, good ground clearance and a long, fox-like tail.
- **Temperament:** The breed ideal is alert, active, intelligent and steady, neither shy nor aggressive.
- **Activity:** Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation are essential. A fixed number of exercise minutes will not suit every individual.
- **Coat:** A short to medium-length, weather-resistant double coat with an undercoat. Expect shedding and regular brushing.
- **Important when buying a puppy:** Ask to see the parents’ actual hip dysplasia results, and ask about eye examinations, rcd3-PRA and any merle colouring.

The Cardigan and the Welsh Corgi Pembroke are two separate breeds. Do not choose a dog solely because it is called a ‘corgi’ or resembles a short-legged dog in a photograph. Compare the breeds’ everyday needs, meet adult dogs and form your own impression of the breeder’s dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan should be sturdy, mobile and capable of endurance: low-set, but not so low that the body lacks ground clearance. The body is fairly long and strong, with substantial bone and large, erect ears that are slightly rounded at the tips. The moderately long tail reaches to, or nearly to, the ground. It may lift when the dog is moving but should not curl over the back. This long, fox-like tail is a clear feature of the Cardigan standard.

Accepted colours are blue merle, brindle, red, sable, tricolour with brindle points and tricolour with red points. Typical white markings are permitted, but white should not predominate on the body or head and should not surround the eyes. Under the standard, blue or blue-flecked eyes are permitted only in blue merles.

The coat consists of a coarse, preferably straight outer coat and a protective undercoat. Brush through the entire coat regularly and more often when a large amount of undercoat is coming loose. Check that loose undercoat is not becoming packed behind the ears, on the backs of the thighs or around the tail. The timing and amount of shedding vary between dogs; plan for more loose hair at certain times rather than relying on a fixed calendar. Gently accustom the puppy to brushing, nail trimming and other handling from the outset.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Welsh Corgi Cardigan is alert, active, intelligent and steady. That is a useful starting point, but it does not guarantee how every dog will develop. Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results show variation within the breed, while upbringing, experience and individuality affect qualities such as sociability, fearfulness, interest in play and the ability to settle.

Its background as a farm and cattle dog may show in close attention to movement, a desire to monitor its surroundings and a tendency to bark. Some young dogs may also try to control running people or animals and nip towards their legs. These are possible behaviours to anticipate and address through training, not something every Cardigan will do. Interrupt calmly, reward an alternative behaviour and offer structured activities in which the dog can use its nose, body and mind.

Ask the breeder how the parents behave with visitors, in unfamiliar environments and after activity. Meet them where possible. A dog that becomes excited quickly but struggles to settle can be demanding even if it learns readily. In many homes, the ability to switch between activity and rest is at least as important as enthusiasm for training.

## Training & Exercise

A Cardigan needs physical activity and opportunities to think every day, but there is no credible rule in minutes that suits them all. Age, health, fitness and personality determine the right amount. A sound routine combines walks in varied environments with scent work, short training sessions, play and time to recover.

The breed often enjoys tasks that involve working with its owner and making small choices. Tracking, search games, everyday obedience, rally obedience and controlled body-awareness exercises are examples; a dog does not have to herd to lead a fulfilling life. Increase difficulty and physical demands gradually, particularly in a growing dog, and seek advice from a vet or veterinary physiotherapist if the dog is in pain, lame or moving abnormally. Its conformation is not, in itself, a reason to ban all stairs or jumping, but the environment and activity must suit the individual dog.

Use positive, reward-based training in clear stages. Prioritise engagement, recall, walking with you and calm behaviour around bicycles, running children and other movement that may attract the dog’s attention. If the dog barks at the door or window, help it away from the situation before barking becomes a habit, then reward the behaviour you want. Harsh corrections or attempts to ‘dominate’ the dog are unnecessary and may undermine its sense of security.

## Health

The current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy describes the Welsh Corgi Cardigan as generally healthy. In the eye examination results reviewed for the strategy, no single eye disease stood out. This does not mean that every dog is healthy or that health screening is unimportant. For a puppy buyer, documented results are more valuable than general assurances that a line is ‘problem-free’.

### Hips and musculoskeletal health

Since 2025, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration with the Swedish Kennel Club. **A known status means that the result is officially recorded; it does not automatically mean that the hips are free from dysplasia.** Ask for the actual grades and invite the breeder to explain the choice of pairing.

The breed club is also monitoring short ulna, in which the ulna stops growing too early and the foreleg may become increasingly bowed. If a growing dog develops a clear change in leg alignment, an outward-turning paw or lameness, it should be assessed promptly by a vet with orthopaedic experience. Treatment may need to start while the dog is still growing, so do not simply wait to see what happens.

### Eyes, rcd3-PRA and merle

Rcd3-PRA is an early-onset, autosomal recessive form of PRA found in the breed. A DNA test can show whether a dog is clear, a carrier or genetically affected. A carrier will not itself develop this particular form of PRA, but can pass the variant on. The test answers only the question of this genetic variant. An eye examination can instead detect clinical eye changes but cannot identify unaffected carriers, so the two forms of screening do not replace each other.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but the merle variant must not be inherited from both parents because the offspring would then be at risk of serious hearing and eye defects. When buying a merle puppy, the breeder should be able to explain the parents’ colours and how the mating complies with Swedish Kennel Club rules.

Keep the dog in an appropriate body condition as well. A defined waist should be visible behind the ribs, and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. Monitor changes over time instead of pursuing a single standard weight.

## History & Origins

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan developed in Wales as a farm and cattle dog. It worked closely with the people on the farm and helped to move and manage cattle. This historical function explains the combination of low height, mobility, endurance and close attention to its surroundings.

The breed’s exact age and the dogs from which it descends have not been conclusively established. Older accounts link it to very early Welsh dogs, Celts or Vikings, but these theories should not be treated as a certain lineage. The Swedish Kennel Club states that Cardigans and Pembrokes were interbred until 1934, when they were separated and recognised as two distinct breeds. The first Welsh Corgi Cardigan registered in Sweden arrived in 1963.

The FCI now classifies the breed as a cattle-herding and companion dog. Many live solely as family companions, but their active, work-focused heritage remains relevant when deciding whether everyday life with the breed will be a good fit.

## Living with the Breed

A Welsh Corgi Cardigan can live in a flat, but its low height does not automatically make it easy to keep in a small home. It needs daily activity, opportunities to settle and training around sounds in communal hallways and outside windows. A house and garden are no substitute for walks, shared activities and new environments.

Being left alone is not a fixed breed trait. Start with very short periods once the dog feels secure and increase the time gradually; take a step back if it shows signs of distress. Plan around the individual and do not expect a young puppy to cope with being left alone.

The breed can live happily in a family with children, but no breed is automatically safe with children. An adult should always be present when a dog and young children interact, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Teach both children and dog calm boundaries, particularly when play and running may prompt the dog to follow or control movement.

The same individual approach applies to other dogs and cats. Previous experience and a controlled introduction matter more than the breed name. When introducing a cat, provide it with a dog-free retreat, keep meetings calm and prevent chasing from the very beginning.

Before buying, it is sensible to check:

- the parents’ official hip grades, not merely that they have been X-rayed;
- the date and result of eye examinations, as well as rcd3-PRA status;
- how any merle pairing was planned;
- how close relatives respond to sounds, people and dogs, and how well they settle after activity;
- whether you want a daily life that includes shedding, training and daily activity throughout the dog’s lifetime.

This is not the right breed for someone choosing solely for its compact size. A Cardigan is an active, intelligent cattle dog on short legs and needs an owner with both the time and interest to provide a well-planned daily routine.

Welsh Corgi Cardigan

Welsh Corgi League (UK)

The Welsh Corgi Cardigan is a sturdy, long-backed herding dog with a foxlike head and long tail. Energetic and agile despite short legs, it is loyal, watchful and often reserved with strangers. It has a weather-resistant double coat in many colours and needs regular exercise and grooming.

Tailicious är en uppfödare av rasen Welsh corgi cardigan med bas i Kungsbacka i Sverige.

Tailicious

## Quick Facts

The Standard Poodle is the largest of the Poodle's four official sizes. It is an active companion dog that needs both close cooperation and substantial coat care. The name **kungspudel** is sometimes used in everyday Swedish, but it is not a separate breed or size. In Sweden, the variant's official name is **Pudel, stor**; on this English page it is **Standard Poodle**.

- **Breed type:** recognised Poodle variety in FCI Group 9, Companion and Toy Dogs
- **Height at the withers:** over 45 up to and including 60 cm; the breed standard allows a further 2 cm of upward tolerance
- **Weight:** the breed standard gives no official weight
- **Coat:** abundant, curly wool coat or a coat that forms cords
- **Ideal character:** alert, active, responsive and easy to train
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, mental stimulation, rest and regular coat care
- **Swedish health programme:** both parents must have an official hip dysplasia (HD) result before mating

A Standard Poodle can suit a committed first-time owner, but the breed is not low-maintenance simply because it is cooperative. A prospective owner needs to enjoy teaching everyday skills, provide purposeful activity and look after the coat even when the weather is wet and the week is busy.

## Appearance & Coat

The Standard Poodle should be balanced and athletic, with a body that is slightly longer than its height at the withers – not completely square. The official height is over 45 up to and including 60 cm, with a further 2 cm of upward tolerance. That tolerance does not make 62 cm the normal target height. Because the breed standard specifies no weight, an adult should be assessed by its proportions and body condition, not against a supposedly official number of kilograms.

The standard recognises two coat structures. The curly-coated Poodle has a dense, fine, woolly and tightly curled coat, while the corded Poodle has a coat formed into long, distinct cords. Companion dogs are often kept in a practical, shorter trim, but a short trim does not remove the need for bathing, working through the coat and clipping.

The approved Poodle colours are broader than many older breed descriptions suggest. Alongside solid black, white, brown, grey and fawn, the current standard recognises several specified multi-coloured patterns. These include white combined with black, grey, brown or fawn, as well as tan-pointed, tricolour and brindle coats. The multi-coloured options were added to the international standard that took effect in Sweden in 2024. Older statements that a Poodle must always be a solid colour are therefore out of date.

The coat grows continuously and needs a plan. How often it needs detangling, bathing and clipping depends on coat length, trim, activity and how readily that particular coat mats. Check all the way down to the skin instead of brushing only the surface. Calmly accustom a puppy to a comb, clippers, a dryer, paw handling and standing still; this makes future care easier.

Standard Poodles are often described as low-shedding, but low shedding does not mean allergy-free. Dog allergens occur in skin and saliva, among other sources, and a person's reaction can differ between individual dogs – even littermates. Someone with allergies should therefore not choose a Standard Poodle solely because of the breed name or a promise of a “hypoallergenic” coat.

## Temperament & Personality

According to the breed standard, the Standard Poodle should be alert, active, loyal and easy to teach and train. In daily life, this often appears as a dog that quickly notices patterns, seeks contact and likes to take part in family activities. That same attentiveness also means the dog can quickly learn unwanted routines when rules, rewards and expectations are unclear.

Being easy to train does not mean that every Standard Poodle has the same temperament, and an intelligence ranking does not explain how a dog behaves in daily life. Results from Poodles that have completed the Swedish Behaviour and Personality Assessment can show shared traits, but they describe the dogs that took part – not every Standard Poodle. Social confidence, activity level, sensitivity to sound, interest in chasing and the ability to settle can vary with inheritance, early experience and training.

If possible, meet the puppy's mother and adult relatives. Pay less attention to whether they can perform a trick and more to how they recover from a surprise, greet without remaining highly aroused and settle when nothing is happening. Ask the breeder which traits genuinely recur in the family and how the planned pairing is expected to work in an ordinary home.

A Standard Poodle can be a good choice for a first-time owner who enjoys training and accepts the coat work. It is less suitable for someone mainly seeking an independent dog or a large dog requiring minimal day-to-day contact and activity.

## Training & Exercise

The Standard Poodle needs physical exercise and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, weather, surface and recovery all affect a good plan. A balanced day includes walks and opportunities to sniff, explore, cooperate and rest undisturbed.

The breed often enjoys training in which it can understand a task: loose-lead work, recall, retrieving, scent work, body awareness or other dog sports. Short, clear sessions can be combined with skills practised in real settings. The aim is not to keep the dog occupied constantly, but to develop a dog that can shift between activity and calm.

For a puppy, quality and gradual exposure matter more than a mechanical minutes-per-age rule. Let the puppy move at its own pace on varied but safe surfaces, provide breaks and increase the load gradually. Plan the next session according to how the puppy moves, maintains focus and settles afterwards.

The Poodle's history as a water-retrieving dog explains why water and retrieving often appear in breed descriptions. It does not, however, guarantee that every Standard Poodle wants to swim. Introduce water without force, choose safe locations and teach the dog to enter and leave on cue.

## Health

The most important verifiable requirement for Swedish Standard Poodle breeding concerns hip dysplasia: both parents must have an official hip result before mating for their offspring to be registered under Swedish Kennel Club rules. A statement that the parents are “health tested” is therefore not enough – ask which examinations were performed and check the results.

Hips are graded from A to E. A and B are considered normal, and the Swedish programme for Standard Poodles also permits grade C in breeding. The Swedish Poodle Club's strategy is that dogs graded D or E should not be used. An individual result is still only part of the picture, because both inheritance and environment affect hip development.

The Standard Poodle also has a hip dysplasia index. The index combines the dog's own result with information from relatives; a value of 100 represents the breed's estimated average breeding value at the time of calculation. The Swedish Poodle Club recommends an estimated litter index of at least 97 for a planned pairing. This is a breeding recommendation and should be considered alongside the parents' grades, family results, overall health and genetic diversity – not as a stand-alone quality score for a puppy.

It is easy to confuse the health rules for the Poodle's four sizes. The formal Swedish DNA requirement for prcd-PRA applies to Toy, Miniature and Medium Poodles, not the Standard Poodle. The Swedish Poodle Club nevertheless encourages DNA testing for the eye disease rcd4 in all sizes and recommends eye examinations. A DNA result covers only the specific variant tested; it replaces neither an eye examination nor a broad assessment of the dog's health.

Before buying, these questions are more useful than a long generic disease list:

- What are the official hip results for both parents, and what is the pairing's estimated hip index?
- Are hip results available for adult siblings and other close relatives?
- Have the parents had eye examinations, and which DNA tests have been performed? Ask for the exact test name and result.
- Which recurring diagnoses, movement problems or other health concerns does the breeder know of in the family?
- How old are the older relatives, and how have their function and health developed?

## History & Origins

The Poodle's documented background is European, and France is listed as its country of origin in the international breed standard. The standard describes an origin close to the Barbet and early use in hunting waterfowl. The history of the breed's name is also connected with water and ducks.

The large Poodle variety was closest to the original water work before the Poodle developed further as a companion and show dog in several sizes. The Swedish Poodle Club's breed history explains the classic lion trim as a functional water trim: coat was left on vulnerable areas while other parts were shaved to make movement in water easier. Today's trims mainly serve practical and show purposes, but this connection helps explain the distinctive outline.

Poodle-like dogs appear in European art from the 15th century. Modern breed standardisation came much later, and today's Standard Poodle is judged as a companion dog – not as though every individual were already a trained water retriever.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Standard Poodle works best when the household plans for three things at once: close cooperation, daily activity and coat care that never entirely takes a break. A dog that can use both body and mind while also learning to rest is usually easier to live with than one given ever more intense exercise alone.

A Standard Poodle can live in a flat if the owner provides regular trips outdoors, suitable activity and calm indoors. A garden can be convenient, but it does not replace walks, exposure to different environments or time together. Barking and restlessness should not be dismissed as inevitable breed traits; instead, consider the situation, reinforcement, stress, lack of suitable activity and the dog's opportunity to settle.

Being left alone must be introduced gradually, starting with short periods during which the dog remains secure. How quickly the training can progress depends on the individual. Before buying, plan for puppyhood, working days and help when needed rather than assuming that an easy-to-train dog will automatically cope alone for a particular length of time.

The breed can live successfully with children, other dogs and cats, but the breed name is not a guarantee. Children and dogs need adult supervision, and the dog needs an undisturbed resting place. Meetings with a cat or another dog should be calm and controlled, with room to create distance. The puppy's previous experiences, the adult animals' behaviour and the owner's introduction matter more than a general yes or no in a breed chart.

Finally, ask the breeder to demonstrate an ordinary coat-care session and explain the trim used on the dogs at home. Combine that practical demonstration with verifiable hip results, clear information about eyes and DNA tests, and an honest account of adult relatives' temperament. That way, your choice is based on the dog you may actually get – not on promises no breed can guarantee.

Standard Poodle

The Poodle Club of the United Kingdom

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Swedish Kennel Club

The Kennel Club (United Kingdom)

The Standard Poodle is an athletic, low‑shedding water retriever with a dense curly coat needing regular grooming. Highly intelligent and sensitive, it excels in training, dog sports, and family life, thriving on close companionship, daily exercise, and mental stimulation.

Amaldinis är en uppfödare av rasen Pudel, stor med bas i Alingsås i Sverige.

Amaldinis

## Quick Facts

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, powerful German working, herding and service breed for an owner who wants to train actively and systematically. The breed is cooperative and versatile, but the considerable variation within the breed makes the choice of breeder, parents and litter particularly important.

- **Origin:** Germany
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Height at the withers:** males 60–65 cm, females 55–60 cm
- **Weight:** males 30–40 kg, females 22–32 kg
- **Coat:** stock coat or long stock coat, both double coats with an undercoat
- **Activity level:** high; the breed needs physical activity, scent work, problem-solving and cooperation
- **Important before buying:** check the health, temperament, working traits and movement of the parents and close relatives, not only what the breeder calls the line or which show merits the dogs have

A German Shepherd Dog can be a highly capable family and training companion when daily life matches the individual dog's drive to work. It is rarely a good choice, however, for someone who mainly wants an uncomplicated companion dog. A first-time owner needs to be prepared to attend classes, train regularly and seek help early if the dog develops fear, stress, a strong urge to chase moving things or difficulty settling.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Shepherd Dog should be powerful and well muscled without exaggeration in either construction or movement. The body is slightly longer than it is tall. According to the breed standard, males should stand 60–65 cm and weigh 30–40 kg; females should stand 55–60 cm and weigh 22–32 kg.

The back and the croup are not the same thing. The breed standard describes a straight back continuing into a slightly sloping croup. A markedly arched or falling loin and an over-angulated, cow-hocked or unstable hindquarter are not the breed ideal. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed-specific instructions identify the topline and hindquarters as areas of risk and state that movement should be assessed at both walk and trot.

For a puppy buyer, natural movement is more informative than an extreme show pose. Ask to see the parents walk and trot on a level surface. The hind legs should work steadily and remain parallel when viewed from behind, without the hocks collapsing inward or looking unstable. Look at adult relatives as well; a puppy does not yet show how its mature body will function.

The breed has two accepted coat varieties. The stock-coated German Shepherd Dog has a dense, harsh and close-lying double coat. The long-coated variety has longer, softer outer hair that does not lie as close to the body. Both must have an undercoat and both shed. Brush and comb as needed, more often during shedding periods, and pay particular attention to longer hair behind the ears and on the legs and tail. Bathe the dog when dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard calls for a well-balanced, steady-nerved, self-assured, attentive and biddable German Shepherd Dog. This is a breeding goal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, working drive, sociability, fearfulness and the ability to settle can differ considerably between dogs and family lines within the breed.

German Shepherd Dogs are often described as intelligent, loyal or naturally protective, but such labels say too little about daily life. A dog with strong working drive may be focused and responsive in suitable work but demanding without clear tasks. Awareness of the surroundings can support good teamwork with the handler, but it can also result in barking or strong reactions if the dog is insecure, stressed or poorly trained. The breed should not be chosen on the assumption that every individual will automatically be a reliable guard dog or an easy family dog.

In some parts of the breed, breeding has focused primarily on working trials and service work; in others, showing has carried more weight. Labels such as “working” and “show” still cannot predict activity level or suitability for family life. Ask the breeder how the parents behave around strangers, dogs, noises, quiet downtime and new environments. Request results and descriptions of everyday behaviour for littermates, half-siblings and previous offspring as well.

During the Swedish Mental Description Dog, MH, the dog's reactions are documented in situations involving contact, play, chasing, inactivity, surprises, threats and gunshots. MH is a description, not a test that the dog passes or fails. Read the full record and compare several close relatives instead of being satisfied that a dog merely has “known mental status”.

## Training & Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog needs to use both body and mind every day, but there is no single number of hours that is right for every individual. Needs are affected by age, health, recovery, fitness and what the activity actually involves. A young dog requires different levels of strain from a fully grown, well-conditioned adult.

A workable routine combines walks and free movement in safe areas with scent work, problem-solving and cooperative exercises. Tracking, search work, obedience, working trials and other tasks that allow the dog to concentrate suit the breed's background. Vary surfaces and environments, but increase duration, difficulty and physical strain gradually. The aim is not to exhaust the dog every day, but to build fitness, body control, self-control and the ability to recover.

Reward-based, individually adapted training makes the desired behaviour clear without building cooperation on fear or discomfort. Start early with recall, engagement, handling, loose-lead walking, working at a manageable distance from distractions and releasing objects. Also train the less spectacular skill of lying quietly when nothing is happening. A German Shepherd Dog given only high-intensity activities may become very good at becoming aroused but struggle to settle again.

Puppies should not be exercised like adult dogs. Short periods of exploration, play at their own pace, rest and positive exposure to new environments are more important than long distances, jumping or sharp turns. Increase the physical load gradually as the dog grows. If the dog becomes lame or stiff, is reluctant to move or shows a changed gait, adjust the exercise and contact a veterinarian.

## Health

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, are the central documented health checks when buying a German Shepherd Dog registered in Sweden. Both areas are prioritised by the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club's breeding strategy. Skin problems and disorders of the musculoskeletal system also occur, while the Swedish breeding strategy notes that consolidated documentation is lacking for some widely discussed back and itching problems. Long disease lists without information about relatives therefore tell a puppy buyer less than verified results and the health of close relatives.

Under the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules in force in 2026, both parents must have official HD status before mating. Because the breed has an HD index, the average index of the parents at the time of mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded HD D or E must not be used for breeding. The German Shepherd Dog also requires official ED status; for parents born on or after 1 January 2006, the result must be ED 0. An average ED index above 100 is a recommendation. Rules can change, so always check the current version with the Swedish Kennel Club.

When buying a puppy, check more than whether both parents meet the minimum requirements:

- compare the parents' HD and ED results and current indices
- find out how many dogs in previous litters and among close relatives have been screened
- ask about skin problems, recurring itching, movement problems and other diagnoses in the family
- read MH or MT results for parents, siblings and previous offspring
- watch adult dogs move naturally at walk and trot, and ask how they function in work and daily life

One good individual result does not eliminate risk. Results from the whole litter and close family give a better picture before purchase.

## History & Origins

The German Shepherd Dog was developed in Germany as a versatile herding and working dog. After the German breed association was founded in 1899, planned breeding began using herding dogs from central and southern Germany. The aim was to combine functional construction with temperament and working ability.

The first breed standard was written in 1899 following proposals by A. Meyer and Max von Stephanitz. The breed's working ability soon led to uses beyond herding. The German Shepherd Dog has since gained a prominent role as a working, competition and service dog in many fields.

This history explains why cooperation, endurance, scent work and a functional body remain central to the breed. It also explains why the breed should not be judged only by silhouette or colour. A sound German Shepherd Dog should be able to work and move efficiently; appearance should support function.

## Living with the Breed

The German Shepherd Dog can live well in a family and even in an apartment, but only if the owner can provide training, recovery, space and safe day-to-day management. A garden does not replace activity, and the type of home does not replace planning. In a building with poor sound insulation, owners also need to prevent and train barking and reactions to sounds in the stairwell or outside windows.

An adult must be present around children, especially because the breed is large and strong. Children should not be responsible for walks or intervene in highly aroused situations. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place, and children and dogs should not be left alone together. Suitability for family life depends on the individual dog's temperament, experiences and training, not on the breed name.

The same caution applies to other animals. A German Shepherd Dog can live with another dog or a cat, but this cannot be promised on the basis of breed. Let dogs meet calmly, preferably on neutral ground. When introducing a cat, provide dog-free escape routes for the cat; use a barrier and a lead, and prevent chasing from the first meeting. Proceed only when both animals are relaxed and supervise them until their interaction is stable.

Time alone must be trained gradually. A young puppy should not be left alone, and a secure adult that has been trained to stay alone can normally manage a few hours rather than a full working day. Increase the time in small steps and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if daily life requires more time alone than the individual dog can handle calmly.

The best home for a German Shepherd Dog does not have a particular address. It has adults who want to train, can read the dog's signals, follow up its health and provide both meaningful activity and genuine rest throughout the dog's life.

German Shepherd Dog

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) e.V. (Germany)

Den Danske Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The German Shepherd Dog is a medium‑large, athletic working breed, highly intelligent and trainable. Loyal and naturally protective, it needs extensive daily mental and physical exercise. It has a double coat with notable shedding and is widely used in police, military, and search and rescue roles.

Gullric's är en uppfödare av rasen Tysk Schäferhund med bas i Kinna i Sverige.

Gullric's

Kangal Shepherd Dog

Ancient Turkish livestock guardian: large, powerful, calm and observant, deeply loyal to family, reserved with strangers. Needs secure space, early socialisation, firm but fair training, and steady exercise. Best for experienced owners who respect its independence and guarding drive.

## Quick Facts

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is the medium-sized variety of German Spitz. It is a lively, alert and quick-learning companion that forms a close bond with its family and naturally notices what is happening around the home. It is best suited to someone who appreciates an attentive dog and is prepared to teach calm behaviour and manage barking from the outset.

- **Breed group:** Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Origin:** Germany
- **Variety:** One of five German Spitz varieties
- **Height at the withers:** 35 cm with a tolerance of 5 cm in either direction, giving a range of 30–40 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not specify a fixed weight range; weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Coat:** A double coat with a long, straight outer coat and a short, dense undercoat
- **Daily life:** Active and keen to learn, with low hunting drive according to the breed standard but a pronounced watchful nature

The Mittelspitz is larger than the Kleinspitz and smaller than the Grossspitz. It is a distinct size variety and should not be judged by the Pomeranian's measurements or appearance. For a prospective owner, noise levels, coat care and the ability to provide worthwhile activity matter more than the size of the home.

## Appearance & Coat

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz should be compact and square in outline, with body length equal to height at the withers. The head tapers towards the nose and has a fox-like appearance. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped, while the ears are small, triangular and erect. The profusely coated tail is carried high over the back.

The official height is 35 cm, plus or minus 5 cm. This gives a range of 30–40 cm, rather than 32–36 cm or other narrower figures that are sometimes quoted. The standard gives no fixed ideal weight in kilograms. An adult should instead have a weight and body condition suited to its height, build and muscle mass.

In Sweden, matings are permitted between the Mittelspitz and the adjacent Grossspitz or Kleinspitz varieties. Following such a mating, the offspring are registered as the variety of the larger parent. Final registration by size takes place after an official measurement once the dog is over 15 months old. It is therefore worth asking how large the parents and their fully grown close relatives actually are.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is long, straight and should stand away from the body. The undercoat is short, thick and dense. The hair forms a ruff around the neck and shoulders, with ample feathering on the backs of the hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, curly or shaggy, and should not look as though it has been shaped by clipping.

Accepted colours are black, brown, white, orange and grey-shaded, together with several colours grouped as “other colours” in the standard: orange-sable, cream, cream-sable, black and tan, black and silver, brown and tan, and parti-colour. A parti-coloured dog should have a white base with patches in a single colour accepted by the standard. Colours not described in the standard are disqualifying in the show ring.

Thoroughly combing the coat from the skin outwards about once a week is a useful starting point. More frequent grooming may be needed when the undercoat is being shed. The breed does shed, although loose hair is often most noticeable during distinct moulting periods. Introduce handling early and pay particular attention behind the ears, through the ruff, on the legs and beneath the tail.

The standard permits a tidy appearance but not a clipped-to-shape outline. Before considering any substantial trimming, ask the breeder to demonstrate the tools and technique suited to that particular coat.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Mittelspitz is attentive, lively, devoted to its owner and highly trainable. The breed standard also describes a natural reserve towards strangers and low hunting drive. In everyday life, its watchfulness often means that it reacts quickly to people, animals or noises outside the home.

This does not mean that every Mittelspitz behaves alike. The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural assessment analysis shows considerable variation among the German Spitz dogs assessed. On average, the Mittelspitz group was relatively secure and seldom reacted aggressively during social encounters, but some dogs barely greeted a stranger while others greeted very intensely. A small number of assessments were stopped because the dogs were afraid. Rather than asking only whether the parents are “friendly”, ask how they respond to visitors, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and how quickly they recover after being startled.

Barking is a central practical consideration. A Mittelspitz that raises the alarm when something happens is displaying a typical breed trait, but the warning need not continue for a long time. Reward quiet behaviour, teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door, and limit opportunities to monitor every movement outside the window. This is not the right breed if you need a dog that is almost always silent.

The breed can live happily with children when interactions are calm and respectful. Young children and dogs should always be supervised by an adult, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Relatively low hunting drive may make living with other animals easier, but it does not guarantee that every individual will be safe with cats or small pets. Make introductions gradually and provide secure, separate areas.

## Training & Exercise

The Mittelspitz needs daily physical exercise and mental stimulation, but no fixed number of hours will suit every dog. A youngster, a fit adult and a senior require different levels of exertion. Adjust walks and activities to the dog's age, fitness, health and ability to settle afterwards.

The breed may enjoy scent work, tracking, rally obedience, agility, heelwork to music, obedience and trick training. A good routine need not involve competition, but the dog benefits from tasks that allow it to sniff, think and work with its owner. Balance activity with calm walks and planned rest instead of trying to tire the dog through constant excitement.

Early priorities include:

- settling quietly by the door and windows and in response to noises in shared hallways
- recall and responsiveness, even though the breed generally has relatively low hunting drive
- walking on a loose lead and maintaining contact around people and dogs
- accepting the handling of paws, coat, mouth and ears
- learning to lie down and rest when nothing is happening

Reward-based training gives the dog clear information without fear or pain. Notice and reward moments of calm, make the desired behaviour easy to choose and increase distractions gradually. If the dog has already started barking, first create distance or block its view of the trigger; you can then practise an alternative response.

## Health

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is described as a generally healthy and robust breed, but patellar luxation and inherited eye conditions are two areas monitored by the Swedish breed club. A puppy buyer should ask for the actual examination results rather than accepting a general statement that the parents have been “health tested”.

Patellar luxation means that the kneecap can move out of its normal position. Some dogs show no obvious signs, while others may be lame or occasionally skip a step with one hind leg. The Swedish breed club recommends that both parents have normal kneecaps. Ask to see the official patella result for each parent and check that the dog's identity matches the result.

The club also recommends an eye examination with no findings before breeding. An official eye examination is carried out by a vet with specific expertise, and the result is recorded centrally by the Swedish Kennel Club. It may identify clinical eye changes present at the time of examination, but a result with no findings is not a promise that the dog will never develop an eye problem. Ask whether eye disease has also occurred in older close relatives.

The Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 do not require a breed-specific patella or eye examination before a Mittelspitz litter can be registered. The breed club's recommendations therefore go beyond the binding breed-specific registration requirements. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club does not automatically have two parents with the results recommended by the club.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the official patella result for each parent
- the eye examination report, including its date and complete assessment
- information about knees, eyes, skin and coat in fully grown close relatives
- BPH behavioural assessment results, if either parent or close relatives have been assessed

## History & Origins

The German Spitz – Mittelspitz is a German variety within the FCI breed German Spitz. The FCI definitively recognised the German Spitz in 1957, and the current standard divides the breed into the Wolfspitz, Grossspitz, Mittelspitz, Kleinspitz and Zwergspitz.

The breed standard repeats an older theory that German Spitz dogs descend from Stone Age peat dogs and from the Spitz dogs of later lake-dwelling cultures. The standard says that the breed is “said to descend” from these dogs. This is therefore best read as a traditional account of its background, not as an uninterrupted and fully documented pedigree extending back to the Stone Age.

The German parent breed club describes the medium-sized Spitz as the size long kept by craftspeople, small farmers and carters, who used the dogs as watchful guardians of the farm and home. The Mittelspitz gained its own place in the German Spitz standard in 1969. Today it is primarily kept as a companion and activity dog, but its watchful nature remains.

## Living with the Breed

A Mittelspitz can live in a flat or a house provided it receives daily activity, rest and training to remain calm around sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, it is important to consider before buying how the dog will be prevented from monitoring the communal hallway, windows and front door throughout the day. A large garden will neither solve barking nor replace shared walks and purposeful activities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the dog feels secure at home. A well-prepared adult dog can usually remain alone for a few hours, but individuals differ considerably and a young puppy should not be left alone. A dog that becomes distressed, barks continuously or cannot settle needs shorter training steps and more company.

Expect to groom the coat weekly and to comb it more often while the undercoat is being shed. Handling practice should involve the whole dog, not only its back. Check the skin, knees, paws, claws, ears and teeth at the same time so that changes can be noticed early.

The breed suits someone who wants an alert dog that stays close to its family and enjoys training, and who accepts that its watchful nature needs active guidance. It is a poorer match if silence, a very low need for activity or minimal coat care is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of documented knee and eye results, stable adult relatives and open information about barking and fears, rather than colour or a fluffy puppy coat alone.

German Spitz – Mittelspitz

German Spitz Club of Great Britain

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Dansk Kennel Klub (DKK)

Medium German Spitz with a square, compact build, dense double coat and plumed tail over the back. Alert, vocal watchdog yet affectionate and people‑oriented, needing companionship, training, mental stimulation and regular grooming. Generally robust, long‑lived, and active.

En liten uppfödning i hemmiljö med inriktning på kvalitet

Militant's Kennel

## Quick Facts

The Finnish Lapphund is a Finnish herding and guarding dog with roots in reindeer husbandry, although most now live as active companion dogs. The breed is best suited to someone who enjoys spending plenty of time outdoors, offers varied training and can also teach the dog to settle. A friendly manner is typical, but it does not predict how sociable, vocal or easily stressed a particular puppy will be.

- **Country of origin:** Finland
- **Breed group:** FCI Group 5, Spitz and primitive types
- **Original purpose:** herding and guarding reindeer
- **Ideal height at the withers:** 49 cm for males and 44 cm for females, with a permitted variation of 3 cm either way
- **Coat:** long, coarse outer coat with a soft, dense undercoat
- **Colour:** all colours are permitted, but the main colour must predominate
- **Best suited to:** an active home that enjoys teamwork, outdoor life and an attentive dog
- **Important points to assess:** vocal behaviour, ability to settle, the parents’ temperament and documented health screening

The breed standard does not specify an official weight. Height is also a guide to breed type rather than a promise of an exact size; the standard states that type is more important than size.

## Appearance & Coat

The Finnish Lapphund is slightly smaller than medium-sized, powerfully built for its size and a little longer than it is tall. The head is relatively broad, the ears are erect or semi-erect, and the well-feathered tail is carried over the back or to one side when the dog is moving. The tail may hang down at rest.

The double coat consists of a long, coarse outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat. Males often have a more pronounced ruff. All colours are permitted provided that one main colour predominates, so two typical Finnish Lapphunds can look quite different.

The coat needs regular brushing, with more frequent attention during a heavy moult. Work right through to the undercoat, particularly behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness or collar rests against the coat. Bathe only when needed. Normal coat care relies on brushing rather than clipping the coat short; if clipping is medically necessary, follow veterinary advice.

The amount of shedding and coat varies between dogs and through the year. Anyone who wants a hair-free home or expects one fixed grooming day each week needs a different approach: check the coat with your hands and a comb, then adapt the routine to the individual dog.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Finnish Lapphund as intelligent, courageous, calm, docile, friendly and faithful. In daily life, many combine a willingness to work with attentiveness and an ability to stay close to their family. This is still a herding and guarding spitz, however, not a dog that is automatically quiet or straightforward in every setting.

The breed readily uses its voice. Some dogs alert to sounds, people outside the home or movement around them, while others are considerably quieter. Ask the breeder how the parents respond to the doorbell, visitors, passing dogs and quiet time indoors. That is more useful than a general claim that the whole breed is noisy.

The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2019 BPH behavioural analysis provides a useful but limited picture. It included 229 assessed dogs, and the 212 Swedish-born participants represented only about three per cent of the Swedish-born dogs in the reported birth cohorts. Moderate greeting of unfamiliar people appeared as the breed average, but there was also wide variation, from dogs that barely greeted to dogs that greeted intensely. A breed average can describe a population; it cannot predict an individual puppy.

It is worth looking at the parents’ BPH or MH behavioural records, but read the complete assessment and ask what the dogs are like in everyday life. Calm recovery after a surprise, vocal behaviour the household can manage and an ability to relax are often more important to family life than an enthusiastic greeting.

## Training & Exercise

The Finnish Lapphund needs regular physical exercise, mental activity and a reliable off-switch, but no single time allowance suits every dog. A good week combines walks over varied ground, opportunities to sniff and explore, short cooperative training sessions and quieter days that allow recovery. Tracking, scent work, obedience, rally, agility and carefully managed herding are examples of activities that may suit different individuals.

Judge the balance by the dog’s behaviour. A suitably occupied dog can work with enthusiasm and then settle. Restless pacing, constant surveillance, difficulty sleeping or ever-increasing demands for activity may mean that the dog needs more recovery and clearer calm routines, not simply longer sessions.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s responsive nature. Start early with attention, recall and choosing to disengage from distractions. Practise at an easy distance first and use a long line where recall is not yet reliable. The breed’s herding background may make movement interesting, but hunting and herding drive vary; work with the dog in front of you.

When working on barking, the aim is not to punish an alert but to make the situation clear. Acknowledge that you have noticed the trigger, reward a pause and teach the dog to go to a calm place away from windows or the door. Reduce opportunities to stand guard without interruption. If barking is driven by fear, difficulty being left alone or high stress, address the cause rather than merely suppressing the sound.

## Health

The breed’s breeding strategy describes the Finnish Lapphund as having no major overall physical health problems, but several inherited conditions still need attention in breeding. For a puppy buyer, the most important checks concern hips, eyes and correctly interpreted DNA results; elbow results and behavioural assessments provide further information.

Formal rules must be distinguished from the breed club’s stricter criteria. The Swedish Kennel Club’s 2026 registration rules require both parents to have an official hip score before mating. For a litter to be listed by the Swedish Finnish Lapphund breed club, further criteria include acceptable hip results, an eye examination within 24 months and an appropriate DNA combination. If the parents have been elbow scored, the results must be clear. This does not mean that eye examinations, elbow scoring and every DNA test are identical formal registration requirements of the Swedish Kennel Club.

Prcd-PRA is a form of progressive retinal disease, while Pompe disease, or GSDII, is a serious glycogen storage disease. Both are inherited in an autosomal recessive manner. A carrier is not the same as an affected dog and can be mated to a genetically clear or hereditarily clear partner without producing puppies affected by that particular mutation. Two carriers must not be mated together. A prcd-PRA test covers only that specific form of PRA, not every eye disease, which is why a current eye examination remains relevant.

Ask the breeder to show original or independently verifiable registered results, and check:

- both parents’ official hip results and, ideally, the projected hip index for the mating
- the date and result of each eye examination
- the prcd-PRA and GSDII status of the mating, not merely the word “tested”
- elbow results if the dogs have been assessed
- BPH or MH records and how the parents behave at home, around sounds and after surprises
- health problems reported in close relatives

No screening checklist can guarantee a healthy puppy. It can, however, show whether the breeder has carried out relevant checks, understood the findings and chosen a mating that reduces known risks without unnecessarily removing healthy carriers from the gene pool.

## History & Origins

The Finnish Lapphund’s modern breed history begins in Finland. The breed standard records that, for centuries, the Sámi used dogs resembling Finnish Lapphunds to herd and guard reindeer in northern Fennoscandia and Russia. The phrase “dogs resembling” matters: it documents an older working role and type of dog, but it does not prove an unbroken pedigree from ancient dogs to the modern breed.

The modern development has clearer milestones. The Finnish Kennel Club adopted the first breed standard for the Lapponian Herder in 1945. The name was changed to Lapphund in 1967, the breed type stabilised during the 1970s, and the present name, Finnish Lapphund, was adopted in 1993. During this development, the longer-coated Lapphund type was separated from the longer-bodied, shorter-coated Lapponian Herder.

The reindeer-herding heritage helps explain why the standard combines alertness and courage with calmness and responsiveness. A working dog needed to react to movement and remain in contact with its handler without creating unnecessary disruption in the herd. The same versatility can now be seen in the breed’s role as an active companion and in several dog sports, although few dogs work with reindeer today.

## Living with the Breed

The Finnish Lapphund can be an excellent family dog when the household is comfortable with activity, coat care, vocal behaviour and close cooperation. It is less suitable for someone who wants a consistently quiet dog, very little shedding or a dog content with brief toilet walks and no other occupation.

The same safety rules apply around children as with any dog: an adult must supervise young children, and the dog needs a protected place where it can rest undisturbed. Even a friendly dog can feel cornered while sleeping, eating or trying to move away. Teach both children and dog how to interact calmly.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, early experience and the introduction. Do not assume that the breed name guarantees low prey drive or instant friendship. Ask how the parents and puppy have behaved around other animals, arrange first meetings with space and an easy way to separate them, and give each animal its own resources and resting places.

Flat living can work if the dog gets plenty of varied outdoor activity and the owner actively manages alert barking in shared hallways, lifts and at windows. The size of the home solves neither the need for activity nor barking; daily routines and the surrounding noise are more important.

Time alone must be introduced gradually once the puppy feels secure at home. Begin with very short absences and increase them only while the dog remains calm. Adult dogs vary greatly in what they can manage, and a second dog is not a reliable solution to separation problems. If the dog cannot settle when left, take the training back a step and consider professional help.

A sound buying decision therefore rests on more than the breed’s friendly reputation. Meet adult relatives where possible, listen to how they respond to everyday sounds, see whether they can settle and ask the breeder to explain both the health data and the dogs’ temperament. This makes it much easier to decide whether a Finnish Lapphund suits your home.

Finnish Lapphund

The Finnish Lapphund Club Of Great Britain

Suomen Kennelliitto (The Finnish Kennel Club)

Verein für Finnische Lapphunde Deutschland e.V.

Finnish Lapphunds are medium, sturdy Arctic spitz dogs with a thick double coat and friendly, watchful nature. Bred as reindeer herders, they are people‑oriented, intelligent, bark‑prone, and thrive on daily exercise, mental stimulation, and close family companionship.

Sametrollets kennel är en uppfödare av rasen Finsk lapphund med bas i Holsljunga i Sverige.

Sametrollets kennel

Alester's är en uppfödare av rasen Irish softcoated wheaten terrier med bas i Alingsås i Sverige.

Alester's

Parson Russell Terrier

Verein für Deutsche Spitze e.V. (Germany)

Parson Russell Terriers are medium‑small, long‑legged, athletic fox‑hunting terriers with smooth or broken white coats. Energetic, intelligent, bold, and affectionate, they need plenty of exercise, consistent training, mental stimulation, and clear boundaries in an active home.

Joygarden är en uppfödare av rasen Parson russell terrier med bas i Dannike i Sverige. Uppfödningen beskrivs som liten.

Joygarden

## Quick Facts

The Dutch Schapendoes is a lightly built Dutch herding dog that combines enthusiasm for work, speed and independence with deep affection for people it knows. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and stay active with their dog and who has time for a long coat, particularly while a young dog is changing coat.

- **Breed group:** Group 1, Sheepdogs and Cattledogs
- **Origin:** The Netherlands
- **Original purpose:** Herding sheep
- **Height at the withers:** Dogs 43–50 cm, bitches 40–47 cm
- **Weight:** The breed standard does not give a fixed weight range
- **Coat:** Long, dense double coat with a fine, dry and lightly waved texture
- **Activity level:** An energetic herding dog that needs both exercise and purposeful tasks

The breed is often called simply the Schapendoes. Beneath the shaggy coat is an agile working dog that should be able to gallop, jump and turn quickly.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dutch Schapendoes should be lightly built and slightly longer than tall. Its movement should be free and springy. The profuse coat makes the dog look larger than its body really is.

Dogs should stand 43–50 cm at the withers and bitches 40–47 cm. The standard gives no ideal weight; height, light construction, muscle and body condition are better guides than a general range in kilograms.

The tail is long and profusely coated, but it should not always be carried in the same position. It hangs down at rest. At the trot it may be carried fairly high and swing gently from side to side, while at the gallop it is stretched out and acts as a rudder when the dog jumps. An alert dog may raise its tail, but it should not be carried stiffly over the back.

The coat has a dense undercoat and long outer hair, measuring at least 7 cm over the hindquarters. The hair should be fine, dry and lightly waved, standing out in tufts. A distinctly curly, frizzy or silky coat does not meet the standard. The abundant topknot, moustache and beard create the characteristic expression.

All colours are accepted, although the standard gives preference to blue-grey through to black.

Coat care changes as the dog grows. The puppy coat can be relatively straightforward, while the transition to the adult coat often produces a softer mixed coat that mats more readily. The adult coat develops gradually and may not be complete until roughly two to three years of age. During the transition, some dogs need combing far more often than a mature adult.

A thorough grooming session about once a week is a sensible starting point, but the condition of the coat should decide. Work in small sections and check with a comb right down to the skin, particularly behind the ears, through the beard and ruff, under the front legs, on the belly and around the hindquarters. If the comb does not pass through without resistance, the coat needs attention.

The coat can collect gravel, twigs, seeds, mud and snow. Undercoat also comes loose periodically, even if hair does not always land on the floor in the same way as it does with a short-coated dog. This does not make the breed allergy-friendly. Dog allergy is caused mainly by allergens from skin and saliva, and no breed can be guaranteed safe for someone with an allergy.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Schapendoes as attentive, courageous, intelligent, watchful, cheerful, lively and friendly. It should be affectionate and loyal towards people it knows. Its herding background often shows in how quickly it notices movement and changes around it.

This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. The Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, based on older behavioural assessments up to and including 2015, noted flight and fear responses to sounds and surprises and a reluctance among some dogs to investigate what had frightened them. The evidence is limited and historical, but makes confidence and recovery important questions. Ask the breeder for concrete examples of how the parents and close relatives respond to strangers, sudden noises, handling and unfamiliar environments, and ask to see BPH or MH behavioural assessment results where available.

Watchfulness may mean that the dog announces a visitor or a change outside the home. Teach early that a brief alert should be followed by calm behaviour. Block access to a window if watching it triggers barking, reward quiet behaviour and teach the dog to go to a designated place when someone comes to the door.

A Schapendoes can live happily with children when the dog is secure and an adult guides the interaction. Children should not pull the coat, disturb a resting dog or play with it without supervision. Playfulness and quick movements can also lead to collisions or herding-like circling. With dogs, cats and small pets, the outcome depends on the individual, experience and introduction; a herding background does not guarantee trouble-free relationships.

## Training & Exercise

The Dutch Schapendoes needs physical exercise and mental stimulation every day, but no fixed number of hours suits every dog. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and the ability to settle. Balance walks, opportunities to sniff and tasks requiring concentration with undisturbed rest.

The breed may enjoy agility, rally obedience, obedience, heelwork to music, scent work, tracking, wounded-game tracking and herding. Competition is not essential, but the dog benefits from tasks that combine quick decisions, body control and co-operation. Fast-paced exercise should be balanced with calm and rest.

Independent work was part of the breed's original function. In training, this may appear as taking the initiative or losing interest in repetitive exercises. Keep sessions short, vary rewards and increase difficulty gradually. Reward-based training provides clear information without fear or pain.

Early priorities include:

- recall and engagement around movement, people and other dogs
- settling quietly by doors and windows and around sounds in shared hallways
- walking on a loose lead and passing distractions without trying to herd or rush into play
- relaxed handling of the coat, ears, paws, mouth and whole body
- body awareness before high jumps and demanding agility work
- a clear cue that means activity has ended and it is time to rest

Puppies and young dogs should not be trained like mature canine athletes. Develop balance and co-ordination through varied movement and avoid repeated high-impact work until the body is mature.

## Health

Ask to see current eye and gPRA results, together with any available information about hips, elbows and temperament. Check the identity of each dog and the dates of the examinations.

gPRA is a form of progressive retinal atrophy linked in the Schapendoes to a mutation in the CCDC66 gene. The disease gradually damages the retina's light-sensitive cells and may cause night blindness, progressive loss of sight and ultimately blindness. A direct DNA test is available for the breed-specific mutation.

The DNA test shows whether the dog is genetically clear, a carrier or has two copies of the disease variant:

- A genetically clear dog does not have the tested disease variant.
- A carrier has one copy. It should not be confused with a dog that has two copies, but can pass the variant to its offspring.
- A dog with two copies is at risk of developing the tested form of gPRA.

Inheritance is simple autosomal recessive. A known carrier should therefore only be mated to a dog that is genetically clear or documented as clear by parentage. Puppies from such a mating cannot inherit two copies of this particular tested variant, although some may be carriers. What matters is that the combination is safe and the results can be verified.

The DNA test and a clinical eye examination answer different questions. The DNA test concerns the known CCDC66 variant, while an eye examination can detect visible changes present at the time. A clear DNA result therefore does not rule out every possible eye disorder, and an eye examination with no findings does not reveal the dog's genetic gPRA status.

The published Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, revised in 2016, specifies gPRA testing and eye examinations for breeding dogs and also recommends hip and elbow assessment. However, the Swedish Kennel Club's registration rules for 2026 contain no breed-specific requirement for hip or elbow assessment, eye examination or gPRA testing before a Schapendoes litter can be registered. A puppy registered with the Swedish Kennel Club therefore does not automatically have parents with these results. The Kennel Club's general rule for serious conditions with simple recessive inheritance still applies when a DNA result is known: a carrier may only be paired with a clear dog, and a dog with two copies of the disease variant must not be used for breeding.

Ask the breeder to show you:

- the gPRA result for each parent or documentation that it is clear by parentage
- current eye examination reports with the complete assessment
- official hip and elbow results where the dogs have been assessed
- information about sight, joints, mobility and fears in older close relatives

## History & Origins

The Dutch Schapendoes developed as a herding dog in the Netherlands and was found wherever there were heathlands, shepherds and flocks of sheep in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The dogs needed stamina, mobility, speed and the ability to make decisions at a distance from the shepherd.

P. M. C. Toepoel is regarded as the founder of the breed. Between 1940 and 1945, dogs of the nearly vanished type were collected for further breeding. The Dutch breed club was formed in 1947, the Raad van Beheer granted provisional recognition in 1952, and a standard was drawn up and a stud book opened in 1954.

The year 1971 appears in the standard's historical summary as the breed's final recognition. The FCI's own breed register, however, gives 17 May 1991 as the date of definitive FCI recognition. The year 1971 should therefore not be described as the date of definitive FCI recognition without explanation. The current official standard was approved by the FCI in 1992 and published in 1999.

The standard places the Schapendoes among long-haired European herding breeds including the Bearded Collie, Puli, Polish Lowland Sheepdog, Old English Sheepdog, Briard and Bergamasco. This describes a broad historical relationship, not a recent cross between these breeds.

## Living with the Breed

A Schapendoes can live in a flat or a house if it receives activity, rest and training around everyday sounds. In a building with poor sound insulation, people in the hallway, lift doors and movement outside the window must become ordinary events rather than reasons for a prolonged alarm. A garden does not replace walks or shared activities.

Expect the coat to bring the outdoors inside. After a woodland walk, you may need to remove twigs and seeds, tease out damp sections and check the paws and skin. Coat care during the adolescent change can take considerably longer than it does with a mature adult. Teach the puppy to accept systematic grooming on a non-slip surface.

The breed likes to stay close to its family, so time alone should be introduced in small steps once the dog feels secure and has had an opportunity to exercise and toilet. Begin with very short periods and increase them only when the dog can rest. Persistent barking, pacing, panting or destructive behaviour means that the step was too difficult, not that the dog needs to be left for longer to “get used to it”.

The Dutch Schapendoes suits someone who wants a quick, cheerful and engaged training companion and appreciates a dog that takes initiative. It is less suitable if a very low need for activity, minimal coat care or a dog that is automatically quiet and confident everywhere is essential. Choose a breeder on the strength of verified gPRA and eye results, open information about joints and temperament, and the way the adult dogs behave in everyday life.

Dutch Schapendoes

Dutch Schapendoes Club of the Netherlands

Deutsche Kynologische Gesellschaft (Germany)

The Dutch Schapendoes is a medium, shaggy-coated Dutch herding dog, lively and agile with a bouncy gait. Cheerful, people-oriented and playful, it suits active families. Intelligent but independent, it needs positive training, regular mental exercise and frequent grooming.

Happiest Tails är en uppfödare av rasen Nederlandse schapendoes med bas i Härryda i Sverige.

Happiest Tails

## Quick Facts

The Pyrenean Mastiff is a large Spanish guard and protection dog. It is independent, has a strong guarding instinct and a deep bark. The breed is best suited to an experienced owner with space, time for everyday training and well-planned routines for visitors, children and other animals.

- The breed is called Mastín del Pirineo in Spanish and is FCI breed number 92. It is not the same breed as the Pyrenean Mountain Dog.
- A male must stand at least 77 cm at the withers and should ideally exceed 81 cm. A female must stand at least 72 cm and should ideally exceed 75 cm.
- The breed standard sets no upper height limit and gives no weight. There is therefore no official standard weight.
- The breed was developed to protect livestock chiefly from wolves and bears, and is now also used to guard rural properties.
- The coat is thick, coarse and moderately long. The base colour is white and the head must have a clearly defined mask.
- Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, occur in the breed. The Swedish population is small, so the available figures are not sufficient to show reliably how common these conditions are.

You must be comfortable living with a dog that assesses events around the home for itself and will not automatically welcome every visitor.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pyrenean Mastiff should be large, powerful and muscular without looking heavy or cumbersome. Its body is slightly longer than its height at the withers, and its movement should be agile. The standard gives minimum and preferred heights but no upper limit. Fixed height and weight ranges are therefore misleading; there is no official figure in kilograms.

The coat is a defining feature. It should be thick and coarse, not woolly, and moderately long. The ideal length along the middle of the back is 6–9 cm. It is longer on the shoulders, neck, underside, backs of the legs and tail. This is a substantial coat, but it should not be excessively long.

The base colour is white and the dog must always have a clearly defined facial mask. Both ears must be included in the mask. Any patches on the body should match the mask and have clear outlines. The feet, legs and tip of the tail should be white. Completely white or tricoloured dogs, red patches and a yellowish-white base colour are not desirable under the standard.

Brushing once a week is a sensible basic routine, with more frequent attention during shedding or when tangles develop. Pay particular attention to the longer hair on the neck, legs and tail, and check the skin, ears, nails and paws at the same time. Bathing should be based on how the dog lives rather than a fixed timetable.

Teach the puppy early to stand calmly while you brush the coat and check the paws, mouth and ears. A dog that cooperates willingly is safer to groom and examine.

## Temperament & Personality

The Pyrenean Mastiff is an independent guardian, not simply a large companion dog. The breed standard describes the ideal dog as friendly, calm, proud and intelligent. It also describes a fearless dog that does not submit to strangers, is aware of its strength and has a deep, impressive bark. The Swedish Kennel Club also emphasises its strong guarding instinct and territorial behaviour.

A well-adjusted dog may therefore be calm in daily life yet respond when someone approaches the home. A guarding instinct is not the same as unprovoked aggression, but it will not disappear through obedience training. The owner must prevent the dog from assuming responsibility for the front door, the property boundary or visitors.

The standard describes a breeding ideal, not a promise about every individual. The Swedish evidence is also limited: the breed-specific breeding strategy reports 24 BPH assessments during 2008–2023 and no MH assessments. Ask how the parents behave around visitors, handling, unexpected sounds and encounters. Meet them where possible and ask to see any registered temperament assessments.

Friendliness towards other dogs forms part of the breed ideal, but does not guarantee that every adult will get along with every other dog. The same applies to children and cats. Early experience, individual temperament and the owner's handling all matter. Choose an individual for the home it will actually share, and arrange the household so the dog can be separated calmly when necessary.

## Training & Exercise

Training should make this large, independent dog manageable before it is fully grown. Prioritise engagement, lead walking, recall, stopping, waiting at doors, cooperative handling and settling in a designated place. Short, clear sessions using reward-based methods teach the dog which behaviours earn a reward without creating unnecessary conflict.

Socialisation does not mean that the puppy must greet everyone. The aim is for it to observe people, dogs and everyday events calmly, without guarding, fleeing or pushing forward. Give it space and teach it to look to you for support. When visitors arrive, the dog should be able to wait behind a barrier and return to its place.

An adult Pyrenean Mastiff needs daily movement and mental activity, but fixed exercise times are a poor guide. Adjust quiet walks, scent work and everyday training to its fitness, joints, age and the weather. Time loose in a garden does not replace shared activity or training in unfamiliar places.

The puppy grows rapidly during its first year. Exercise should be moderate and increase as the puppy moves comfortably and recovers well, not according to a one-size-fits-all formula based on minutes. Choose short outings that combine movement, sniffing and rest rather than long distances at a set pace or repeated jumping. Recurrent stiffness, reluctance to move or lameness are reasons to reduce activity and contact a vet.

Recall does not remove the need for a lead and secure fencing. Begin training without major distractions and increase the difficulty gradually; do not test obedience in a situation that is still too demanding.

## Health

HD and ED are the clearest documented health concerns, while the Swedish population is too small to provide reliable prevalence figures. The breed-specific breeding strategy notes both a low number of examined dogs and a lack of useful insurance data. It is therefore more honest to examine results for a particular litter and its relatives than to quote a percentage for the breed.

In Sweden, both parents must have official HD status before mating for their offspring to be eligible for registration under Swedish Kennel Club rules. The 2026 rules do not, however, require official ED status for the breed. The breed club's recommendation goes further: both breeding dogs should have official hip and elbow results, ED 0 and no worse than HD C. A dog with HD C should be paired with one graded HD A or B.

Ask the breeder to show the results, discuss close relatives and explain the choice of mating. The breed club recommends an inbreeding coefficient no higher than 6.3 per cent, repeating the same mating no more than twice and limiting each breeding dog to 20 offspring. It also recommends a known BPH or MH result.

Rapid growth makes body condition, feeding and activity levels important. Monitor the puppy's body condition and growth with the breeder and vet, and adjust its food in line with their advice.

Owners of very large dogs should recognise gastric dilatation-volvulus, GDV, even though the breed data do not show how common it is specifically in the Pyrenean Mastiff. Unproductive retching, drooling, restlessness, panting, a distended or painful abdomen, pale gums, weakness or collapse require immediate veterinary attention. Preventive gastropexy can be discussed with a vet; it reduces the risk of twisting but does not stop the stomach from dilating.

## History & Origins

The Pyrenean Mastiff developed in Spain as a guard and protection dog for livestock. In the Pyrenean mountain regions it defended animals from large predators, chiefly wolves and bears. The task required strength, vigilance and the ability to assess threats without constant direction, traits that remain visible in the way the breed works and guards.

As wolves and bears disappeared from large parts of the region, the need for these dogs declined. The difficult economy after the Spanish Civil War also made it costly to keep very large dogs without a clear job. According to the Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy, remnants of the population survived with a few shepherds until the mid-1970s.

Enthusiasts then searched for dogs in the northern mountain regions and began to rebuild the breed. The Spanish breed club was founded in 1977 and became an important part of this work. The modern breed therefore has an old working heritage but a breeding population rebuilt in recent times.

In Sweden, the breed lives chiefly as a companion with guarding traits. Its history remains practically relevant: a dog bred to work independently as a protector does not automatically become an uncomplicated city dog simply because it grows up in a modern home.

## Living with the Breed

Living with a Pyrenean Mastiff calls for a carefully planned routine. The Swedish Kennel Club describes a rural setting with access to the outdoors as a better starting point than a flat or city. Other settings require a workable plan for the available space, access over stairs, daily walks, barking, visitors and safe separation.

Make a practical assessment before buying:

- Can the dog pass through doors, gates and shared spaces without close encounters?
- Is there secure fencing and a plan that prevents the dog from assuming responsibility for the property boundary?
- Can you separate the dog behind a sturdy barrier when tradespeople, guests or children's friends arrive?
- Will an adult dog fit safely in the car, and can you get it to a vet if it cannot jump or walk unaided?
- Can every adult in the home manage the lead, grooming and emergencies involving a very strong dog?
- Do you have access to a breeder, trainer and vet who understand large, independent guardian dogs?

Children and dogs need active adult supervision. Even a friendly dog can knock over a small child, and guarding behaviour does not mean the dog should be responsible for the child. Let the dog eat and rest undisturbed, and end interaction before anyone becomes overexcited.

Introduce a cat or another dog gradually and under control, allowing distance and separation. Growing up together improves the prospects but is no guarantee; continue to monitor the relationship as the dog grows and its guarding behaviour matures.

Train the dog to be alone gradually, starting with short, comfortable periods and increasing them only once it can relax. Step back if it becomes stressed, barks or starts monitoring the surroundings. A large garden does not replace social contact and can give the dog many opportunities to practise boundary guarding.

The Pyrenean Mastiff suits someone who values a large, dignified and independent guardian and is prepared to manage its strength, guarding instinct and independent judgement. The right home plans before these traits become problems and does not make the dog responsible for the family's safety.

Pyrenean Mastiff

VDH - Verband für das Deutsche Hundewesen (Germany)

Large Spanish livestock guardian, the Pyrenean Mastiff is a giant, steady dog with a dense white coat and dark patches. Calm, observant and deeply loyal, it’s affectionate with family yet reserved with strangers, needing space, firm but gentle training, and experienced ownership.

Evitagårdens är en uppfödare av rasen Pyreneisk mastiff med bas i Gällstad i Sverige.

Evitagårdens

## Quick Facts

The Greyhound is a British sighthound in FCI Group 10. It was developed to pursue hare by sight and is built for speed. In Sweden, the two main types are standard or show lines and racing lines. They are all the same breed, and a dog from racing lines has not necessarily raced.

- The ideal height in the breed standard is 71–76 centimetres for males and 68–71 centimetres for females.
- The breed standard does not specify a weight. As a rough guide, the Swedish Kennel Club gives 30–50 kilograms for standard-type males and 28–42 kilograms for females; racing-type dogs are often 10–15 kilograms lighter. Line, sex, height and body condition therefore make a considerable difference.
- The coat is fine, short and close-fitting. It requires little grooming but provides limited protection from cold, wet weather and chafing.
- Greyhounds react quickly to movement. Access to a spacious, securely enclosed area matters more than the assumption that a good recall makes a dog safe off lead everywhere.
- The breed standard describes the Greyhound as intelligent, gentle, affectionate and even-tempered. An individual dog's calmness, sociability and desire to chase are also shaped by its line, upbringing, experience and health.

The Greyhound is best suited to someone who wants a close companion but can also manage the breed's speed and hunting instinct. Prospective owners therefore need to consider both life indoors and opportunities for safe exercise outside.

## Appearance & Coat

The Greyhound is a tall, strong and well-balanced dog, not merely a very slim one. Its long head and muscular neck lead into well-laid shoulders, a deep chest, a slightly arched loin and powerful hindquarters. The tucked-up abdomen and long legs create the familiar sighthound outline. The overall construction combines speed and stamina without appearing coarse.

Standard and racing lines can look noticeably different. The standard type is generally larger and heavier, while the racing type is often lighter. These are two types within one breed, not two officially separate breeds. If size matters for your home, car or daily routine, ask the breeder to show you mature close relatives.

The coat should be fine and close-fitting. Permitted colours are black, white, red, blue, fawn, reddish-yellow and brindle, either solid or combined with white. The coat normally only needs brushing when there is loose hair and bathing when the dog is genuinely dirty. Its shortness also makes grazes, chafing and changes in body condition easy to see.

Choose weather protection for the individual dog and the situation, not according to a fixed temperature threshold. A lean dog that is standing still in the cold or gets wet may need a coat, while a dog exercising in the same garment may become too warm. Check that collars, harnesses and coats do not rub the narrow neck, shoulders or armpits. A soft bed away from draughts is also practical for a short-coated dog with prominent bony points.

## Temperament & Personality

A Greyhound may be quiet and affectionate at home, but the expression “couch potato” is a simplification, not a trait guaranteed in every dog. Some settle easily between activities; others need more support with noise, being left, visitors or unfamiliar surroundings. Ask how the particular dog behaves in real daily situations rather than relying on the breed's reputation.

The breed was selected to spot and pursue movement at a distance. The urge to chase can therefore be triggered very quickly by wildlife, a cat or a small running dog. This does not mean every Greyhound is unsuitable with other animals. It means compatibility must be assessed individually, and a calm first meeting does not prove how the dog will respond when another animal starts to run.

With children, the individual dog's confidence and the household routine matter more than a general breed label. An adult should manage interactions, protect the dog's sleeping area and prevent children from climbing on, restraining or surprising a resting dog. Use the same care with small dogs and cats: begin at a distance with a lead, gate or other secure barrier, give each animal a retreat and do not leave them together unsupervised until you know their responses well. Small pets in cages or runs require secure separation.

Kind, clear handling suits the breed better than harsh corrections. A Greyhound that stops or withdraws is not necessarily stubborn; it may be uncertain, overwhelmed or in pain. Reward the behaviour you want and reduce the difficulty so that the dog is confident enough to try again.

## Training & Exercise

Greyhounds need daily movement and opportunities to use their bodies, but there is no credible minute-by-minute formula that suits every dog. Walks, sniffing and everyday training form the foundation. Opportunities to gallop can be added in a large, securely enclosed area when the dog's age, health, footing and fitness allow. A young, unfit, older or newly rehomed dog should be conditioned gradually.

The hunting instinct is the central safety issue. Keep the dog on a lead near traffic and wherever wildlife or small animals may appear. Fencing needs to be intact, high enough for the individual and free of gaps through which a slim dog could squeeze. Check the ground before releasing the dog as well; running at speed over slippery, uneven or littered ground increases the risk of injury.

Teach a response to the dog's name, attention, stopping and recall because these skills can reduce risk and make daily life easier. Recall does not, however, remove the innate pursuit response. A dog that returns every time in a training field may make a different choice when a deer breaks cover. A long line can offer more room in some places, but it is not safe for uncontrolled flat-out galloping and requires careful handling.

Short, clear, reward-based sessions often work well. Train the skills that make a practical difference: waiting calmly at doors, walking with you on lead, accepting handling of feet and mouth, pausing on cue and settling in a designated place. For a former racing dog, stairs, slippery floors, glass doors, household noises and ordinary family life may be unfamiliar. Find out what that individual already knows and introduce the rest in small steps; do not assume the same list applies to every rehomed dog.

## Health

A Greyhound's health needs to be considered in relation to its line and family because Swedish statistics often combine the standard and racing types even though their risk patterns can differ. Ask to see recorded results, enquire about the health of close relatives and check that the tests are relevant to the dog's line.

For standard and show lines, the current Swedish breed-specific breeding strategy recommends that breeding dogs have a known status for Greyhound hereditary neuropathy, GHN. A study linked the condition to a recessively inherited change in the NDRG1 gene in the show Greyhounds examined. A DNA result should therefore be interpreted alongside the inheritance pattern and the other parent's result, not as a general indication that every carrier is ill.

For racing lines, the same breeding strategy recommends DNA testing for progressive retinal atrophy, PRA, and an eye examination before every mating. These recommendations are specific to the line. At the same time, the Greyhound has no special compulsory health programme in the Swedish Kennel Club's registration regulations for 2026. The absence of a binding registration requirement does not mean health screening is unimportant.

Greyhounds also have blood values that can differ from general canine reference intervals. Studies have found, among other features, higher red blood cell counts and haematocrit, while white blood cell and platelet counts are often lower; creatinine and thyroid values may also need to be interpreted with the breed in mind. Always tell the vet that the dog is a Greyhound and ask the clinic to consider breed-specific intervals before labelling a result abnormal.

Delayed bleeding has been reported in some Greyhounds one to four days after surgery, even when routine coagulation tests did not clearly predict the problem. Before an operation or dental procedure, the vet should know the breed, any previous unusual bleeding and details of earlier procedures. Medication and preventive treatment must be chosen by the vet; the evidence does not support one simple standard solution for every Greyhound.

A British clinical study also placed the Greyhound among breeds with a higher frequency of osteosarcoma in the population examined. This does not predict what will happen to an individual dog, but persistent unexplained lameness, local pain or swelling should be examined by a vet rather than attributed only to age or a previous racing career.

## History & Origins

The Greyhound has a long history, but accounts often present it with more certainty than the evidence allows. The official breed standard says that an origin in the Middle East is disputed and mentions depictions of Greyhound-like dogs in Egyptian tombs. The resemblance shows that the sighthound type is ancient; it does not establish an unbroken pedigree from ancient Egypt to every modern Greyhound.

The uniform breed described by today's standard was developed in the British Isles. Greyhounds were used for coursing hare, working by sight and speed over open ground. This background explains both the quick response to movement and the body built for galloping.

When mechanical oval-track racing was established in 1926, it created a distinct breeding focus on racing speed. Show and racing lines subsequently developed along partly different paths, and in Sweden the differences can be seen in size and health recommendations. They remain one breed. Today Greyhounds are kept as companions, shown and used in organised sighthound activities, while many former racing dogs are also rehomed as household pets.

## Living with the Breed

A Greyhound can live in a flat or a house if it can settle indoors, goes out every day and has a safe arrangement for exercise. The size of the home matters less than stairs, slippery floors, noise transmission, access to outdoor space and how comfortably the dog copes with noise and being alone. Assess the individual dog in the setting where it will actually live.

Teach the dog to be alone gradually. Start with very short, uneventful absences and extend them only while the dog remains calm. A newly rehomed dog should be allowed to settle into its routine before demands increase. Persistent barking, pacing, destruction, drooling or being unable to take familiar treats can show that the step was too difficult; reduce the duration and seek knowledgeable help if the problems continue.

Arrange the home for a long, fast dog that may react suddenly to movement. Provide a soft, undisturbed sleeping place, non-slip surfaces where needed and secure doors and gates before removing the lead. Introduce cats and other dogs in stages. Even a dog that lives calmly with the family cat may respond differently to a running cat outdoors.

Before buying or rehoming, obtain clear answers to the following:

- Is the dog from standard/show or racing lines, and how large are its closest mature relatives?
- Which health tests have been completed for the parents: known GHN status in standard lines, or PRA testing and eye examinations in racing lines?
- What is known about health and longevity in the parents, siblings and older close relatives?
- How does the dog respond to children, small dogs, cats, wildlife, traffic, strangers and being left alone?
- Which environments and everyday experiences has the dog actually encountered?

Good answers describe observations, results and exceptions instead of promising that all Greyhounds are alike. When hunting instinct, line, health and home environment are a good match, a Greyhound can be a close companion who is easy to live with, provided its safety needs are not underestimated.

Greyhound

The Greyhound Club of Great Britain

Svenska Vinthundklubben (Swedish Sighthound Club)

Den Danske Greyhound Klub

Tall, slender Greyhounds are sprinting sighthounds, built for speed yet calm indoors. They have a short, low‑maintenance coat in many colors and need soft bedding and weather protection. Gentle, sensitive, and affectionate, they suit owners who provide routine, kind training, and moderate daily exercise.

Magic Runner's är en uppfödare av rasen Greyhound med bas i öxabäck i Sverige. Kapplöpning har varit en återkommande del av verksamheten sedan 2009. Greyhounds från uppfödningen har tävlat i både Sverige och Danmark.

Magic Runner’s

## Quick Facts

The Japanese Spitz is a Japanese companion dog in FCI Group 5. Its defining features are a pure white double coat, small upright ears and a plumed tail carried over the back. This is a lively, observant breed that is often keen to train, but it can also be quick to bark. Anyone considering a Japanese Spitz should therefore assess noise tolerance just as carefully as exercise needs.

- **Origin and purpose:** Japan; companion dog, FCI number 262.
- **Size:** the standard sets a height of 30–38 cm for males, with females slightly smaller. It does not specify a weight.
- **Proportions:** the body is slightly longer than it is tall, with a height-to-length ratio of 10:11.
- **Coat:** pure white, with a straight, stand-off outer coat and a short, soft, dense undercoat.
- **Temperament:** the ideal is intelligent, cheerful and alert. A Japanese Spitz may give an alert bark, but should not be habitually noisy, fearful or aggressive.
- **Everyday needs:** daily physical activity, scent work and mental tasks, and early training around sounds, visitors and being left alone.

A Japanese Spitz can resemble a small Samoyed or a white German Spitz, but these are separate breeds with different standards and histories. Appearance alone cannot tell you how they compare in temperament, size or health.

## Appearance & Coat

The Japanese Spitz is sturdy yet elegant, without exaggerated proportions. Its pointed muzzle, dark almond-shaped eyes and small triangular ears create an alert expression. The back should be short and level, and movement should be quick and active. The tail is carried over the back but should not be tightly curled.

The coat has two distinct layers. The outer coat is straight and stands away from the body, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. Hair is shorter on the face, ears and fronts of the legs, but longer over the body. The ruff around the neck and chest and the well-feathered tail are especially prominent. Pure white is the only accepted colour.

A thorough brush and comb down to the skin about once a week is usually a sound starting point. Work through small sections so the comb reaches the undercoat, paying particular attention behind the ears. More frequent grooming is needed during a moult. The Swedish Kennel Club describes females as often moulting twice a year and adult males usually once, although timing and volume vary.

Bathing should be based on dirt and need, not a fixed timetable. A white coat does not have to be washed whenever it becomes dusty. Introduce a puppy calmly to a brush, comb and paw handling before a full grooming session is necessary.

## Temperament & Personality

The Japanese Spitz notices changes in its surroundings quickly and generally likes to stay close to its family. The breed standard describes it as intelligent, cheerful and alert. Some individuals have little interest in interacting with unfamiliar people or dogs. Reserve is not the same as fear: panic, threats or difficulty recovering are different from calm self-possession.

Barking needs a balanced explanation. The Swedish Kennel Club's breed description says the Japanese Spitz is quick to bark, while the standard says it should not be noisy. These statements are compatible when a brief alert is distinguished from barking that continues at every sound. The aim is not to remove the dog's awareness, but to help it notice a sound at the door and then settle again.

Barking, shyness and fear of unfamiliar people recurred in the breed club's owner surveys in 2014 and 2020. The respondents were self-selected and the question was broad, so the answers do not show how common any trait is across the breed. If possible, meet the puppy's mother in an everyday setting, ask how close relatives respond to visitors and sounds in communal hallways, and read any BPH behaviour descriptions as profiles rather than scores.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who is willing to train actively and address barking consistently. It is a poorer fit for someone who assumes that a companion breed will automatically be quiet, always come when called or greet everyone enthusiastically.

## Training & Exercise

An adult Japanese Spitz needs physical and mental activity every day, but no fixed number of minutes suits every dog. Vary walks, sniffing, play and short co-operative tasks. Rally obedience, nose work, agility, tracking, tricks and everyday training are all possible choices; match them to the dog's health, interests and fitness.

Judge the amount by recovery. The dog should be able to settle and move without stiffness after rest. A dog that alerts to every small disturbance may need clearer rest, scent work or better training around distractions — not necessarily a longer walk. Puppies need short, playful experiences suited to their age, not a miniature adult routine.

Reward-based, progressive training makes good use of the breed's attention and willingness to work. First identify what triggers barking: the doorbell, a lift, people outside a window or excitement during play. Create distance or block the view, and reward the dog while it can still remain quiet and engage with you. Then teach a simple alternative, such as going to a mat when the bell rings. Punishment may increase anxiety without changing how the dog feels about the sound.

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the breed's hunting instinct as relatively low, but that does not guarantee safe off-lead exercise or a reliable recall. Begin in an easy setting, increase distractions gradually and use a long line until the dog responds to the first cue even when something moves. A percentage for recall tells you less than the dog's behaviour in the place where you intend to let it off the lead.

## Health

The Swedish Kennel Club describes the Japanese Spitz as generally healthy, with few breed-specific diseases, but a puppy buyer should still examine knees, eyes, heart and relevant family history. One normal test cannot replace information about parents, siblings and previous offspring.

**Patellar luxation**, in which the kneecap can move out of its normal position, occurs in the breed. In its published breeding strategy, the breed club recommends a voluntary patella examination at around two years of age, when the dog is physically mature. Ask for the parents' official results and whether relatives have had recurring lameness, difficulty jumping, or reluctance to run and turn sharply.

**Eyes and heart** are also monitored voluntarily. The breeding strategy records a small number of PRA diagnoses in older dogs and recommends regular eye examinations for breeding dogs, especially after six years of age. It also notes a small number of older dogs with heart murmurs and MMVD. The advice is for a vet to listen to the heart at routine visits and arrange an ultrasound if a murmur is found. This is surveillance, not evidence that every dog will be affected or that an old normal result provides lifetime clearance.

**X-linked muscular dystrophy** has been documented in a limited number of Irish families, and researchers have developed a DNA test for the mutation. The breed club's strategy states that no cases were known outside the affected Irish families. DNA testing is therefore particularly relevant when a pedigree includes Irish ancestry: ask for the genetic status of the relevant branch. There is no evidence, however, that a specific PRA DNA test should be routine for the whole breed.

The Swedish Kennel Club's 2026 registration rules do not impose any breed-specific health-testing requirements on the Japanese Spitz, and the breed has no compulsory central health programme. Patella, eye and heart checks are voluntary breed-club recommendations. Always check the latest rules before breeding and distinguish binding conditions from recommendations.

## History & Origins

The Japanese Spitz was developed in Japan during the first half of the twentieth century. The official standard cautiously says that the breed is thought to descend in part from white German Grossspitz brought to Japan via Siberia and north-eastern China around 1920. That is a documented account of its background, not a reason to describe the modern breed as a variety of German Spitz.

White spitz dogs were shown in Tokyo around 1921. Two pairs were imported from Canada in 1925, followed by further dogs from Canada, the United States, Australia and China up to 1936. These dogs were crossed to establish a more consistent breed type. After the Second World War, the Japan Kennel Club wrote the standard adopted in 1948.

More detailed claims involving Samoyeds, American Eskimo Dogs or other breeds in the early breeding programme are common, but they are not supported by the history in the official standard. It is therefore best to keep documented import routes separate from later theories.

## Living with the Breed

A Japanese Spitz can live in a flat, but noise becomes a more important consideration. Can you hear the lift, entrance door or neighbours? Place the dog's bed away from the front door and windows overlooking passing activity, and reward calm behaviour before alerting becomes a habit. Easy access to good walking and training areas matters more than the number of rooms.

Being left alone must be taught gradually. A young puppy cannot be left alone, and adult dogs also differ widely. Begin when the dog feels secure at home, use very brief absences and extend them only while the dog can rest without barking, pacing or showing stress. A camera can show what happens after the door closes. If anxiety increases, shorten the absence and return to an easier stage rather than pushing on.

With children, adult supervision and the dog's right to an undisturbed resting place matter more than the breed label. Teach children not to carry, hug or disturb the dog while it is eating or sleeping. With other dogs, cats and small animals, previous experience and individual behaviour matter more than the general statement about relatively low hunting instinct. Introduce a cat and dog at a distance, using a gate or lead, prevent chasing and give the cat high places to retreat to. Do not leave them unsupervised until their relationship is stable.

Before buying, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- How do the parents and close relatives respond to sounds at the door, visitors and new places?
- What dated patella and eye results are available, and what does the breeder know about heart or mobility problems among relatives?
- Is there Irish ancestry and, if so, is the muscular-dystrophy status of the relevant branch known?
- How have the puppies practised handling, everyday sounds, rest and brief separations?

The best match is a home that appreciates an alert, trainable companion and is prepared to work calmly on noise and self-control. The white coat is the most visible feature, but in daily life how readily the dog barks, how quickly it recovers and whether it can settle determine whether the breed is a good fit.

Japanese Spitz

The Japanese Spitz is a small to medium, people‑oriented companion with a pure white double coat that’s easy to maintain with regular brushing. Lively, intelligent, and trainable, it suits apartments with daily exercise. Naturally alert and vocal, it is usually friendly once introduced.

Bless Me är en uppfödare av rasen Japansk spets med bas i Herrljunga i Sverige.

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