## Quick Facts

The Whippet is a British, FCI-recognised sighthound in Group 10. The breed was developed for speed and work, and the breed standard describes a combination of muscular power, strength and elegance without exaggeration. It is therefore an athletic dog, not merely a slender companion.

The desired height at the withers is 47–51 cm for males and 44–47 cm for females. The breed standard does not specify an ideal weight. Assess weight and body condition in relation to the individual dog's size, muscle and fitness rather than against a fixed number.

Before buying, you should focus particularly on safe exercise, prey drive, cold weather and documented health in the family. A Whippet can be an adaptable companion, but needs opportunities to run safely, gradual training to be left alone and careful management around wildlife and small animals.

## Appearance & Coat

The Whippet should be built to function at speed. The standard calls for, among other things, a deep chest, power over the loin, strong hindquarters and free, long movement with powerful drive. Movement should be parallel and neither short, stilted nor exaggerated. An extremely thin or weak dog is therefore no more typical of the breed than a heavy, cumbersome one.

The difference in desired height between the sexes is small, yet individuals can still differ clearly in build. Because the standard gives no weight, a single number on the scales is a poor criterion for choosing a dog or judging its health. It is better to assess proportions, muscle, movement and current body condition with the breeder or a veterinarian.

The coat should be fine, short and close. All colours and colour combinations are permitted except merle. The breed standard does not state whether the Whippet has an undercoat. You should therefore assess the individual dog's coat density and tolerance of cold rather than assume that every Whippet has exactly the same protection.

The fine coat provides little protection from cold and wet weather. Some Whippets need a well-fitting coat on cold walks, while the weather, activity and individual dog determine when it is necessary. Shivering, slowing down or clearly seeking warmth are signs to stop or provide more protection. Grooming is otherwise straightforward, but the skin, paw pads and nails should be checked after activity in scrub, crusted snow or uneven terrain.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed standard describes the Whippet as gentle, affectionate and even-tempered, with the ability to adapt both at home and in sporting settings. This is the breed ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Breeding, early experiences, health and everyday training all affect how an individual dog behaves.

Swedish BPH behavioural assessment results provide a more nuanced picture. By July 2024, 373 Whippets had been assessed. Among Swedish-born dogs from 2004–2023, participation amounted to 323 of 8,641 dogs, or 3.7 percent. On average, the assessed group was moderately social, relatively playful and fairly secure and curious. At the same time, there was greater variation in areas including greeting, curiosity and play. The results describe the participating dogs and should not be treated as a promise about a puppy or the whole breed.

With children, calm handling and an undisturbed resting place matter more than the label “family dog”. An adult needs to supervise, and children should not disturb a dog that is eating or resting. Meetings with other dogs should also be introduced in a controlled way, particularly if the dogs differ in size, play style or experience.

A Whippet can live with a cat, but the breed name does not guarantee success. Prey drive and reactions to fast movement vary. Start at a distance with a physical barrier, keep the dog on a lead, give the cat a safe escape route and supervise until both animals are relaxed. A dog accepting the family cat does not reliably predict how it will react to unfamiliar cats or small animals outdoors.

## Training & Exercise

A Whippet needs daily physical and mental activity, but neither the breed standard nor Swedish authority guidance specifies a fixed number of minutes or requires the dog to run off lead at full speed every day. Adjust the workload to age, health, fitness and surface. Walks, scent work, everyday obedience and occasional opportunities to stretch out in a safe place provide a good mix.

Training should be reward-based, progressive and tailored to the individual. Short sessions with a clear goal often work better than many repetitions. Prioritise recall, checking in around movement, waiting calmly, accepting paw handling and settling after activity. Start in easy environments and increase distractions once the behaviour is reliable.

Prey drive is a safety consideration, not a character defect. The breed's background means that fast movement can trigger pursuit, but the strength of that response varies. Recall reduces risk without making every open space safe. Use a lead or long line where wildlife, traffic, cyclists or small animals may appear, and choose properly enclosed areas when the dog is to run free.

Swedish rules also require particular care around wildlife. From 1 March to 20 August, dogs must be prevented from running loose in the countryside, and during the rest of the year you must still be able to stop the dog from driving or pursuing wildlife. Lure coursing and other organised sighthound activities can provide a controlled outlet for the chase, but they are options rather than requirements for a good life.

## Health

The Whippet is not included in any of the Swedish Kennel Club's health programmes, so there are no breed-specific health examinations that must be completed before mating in Sweden. This does not make documentation unimportant. The Swedish Whippet Club's current breed-specific breeding strategy recommends examinations and follow-up that a puppy buyer should ask about specifically.

The breed club recommends cardiac auscultation of breeding dogs, meaning that a veterinarian listens to the heart with a stethoscope. If a murmur is heard, the dog should be examined further by a veterinarian specialising in cardiology. MMVD occurs in the breed, but a murmur is a finding, not a diagnosis in itself. The club also recommends eye examination and BPH behavioural assessment, and advises waiting until the dog is at least two years old before breeding. These are recommendations, not Swedish registration requirements for the breed.

The eye situation needs equally careful wording. A small number of Swedish PRA cases have been documented, while only a small proportion of dogs have been examined for inherited eye disease. The issue can therefore neither be described as common nor dismissed. Ask to see dated results for the parents and how the breeder uses results from relatives.

Injuries deserve more attention than a long list of possible diseases. In the breed club's 2020 health survey, which received responses concerning 367 individual dogs, owners reported that 42.7 percent had experienced an accident requiring veterinary care; wounds were the most common. A survey does not show the risk for every dog, but it supports checking skin, paws and movement after fast activity and choosing surfaces and enclosures carefully.

Also ask about testicular status in males and immune-mediated disease among close relatives. The breed strategy describes clustering in families but not a simple mode of inheritance that a single DNA test can resolve. Information about parents, littermates and older relatives can therefore be more useful than a general statement that the line has been health tested.

Cardiac findings in a Whippet also need to be interpreted with knowledge of the breed. Studies of healthy Whippets show that some ECG and ultrasound measurements can differ from general canine reference values. Tell the veterinarian that the dog is a Whippet and how it is trained. This can reduce the risk of misinterpretation, but must not be used to dismiss a murmur, symptoms or the need for further investigation.

## History & Origins

The Whippet's documented history begins in Great Britain. The breed was mentioned in an official show context in England in 1876, and The Kennel Club recognised it in 1890. Whippet racing is documented from the 1890s, while the breed standard states that the dog was originally used for hunting by sight or scent.

The breed is associated particularly with northern England and racing, but the earliest breeding decisions are not fully documented. Greyhounds and some terrier breeds are often cited as possible influences, while the Swedish breed strategy notes that written accounts from the earliest breeders are lacking. These crosses are therefore best described as likely theories rather than a precise recipe.

The breed's earlier work is still apparent in its construction and interest in movement. Today's Whippet is also an established companion and sporting dog. Its history helps explain speed and prey drive, but should not be used to claim that every individual must compete or reacts to wildlife in the same way.

## Living with the Breed

A Whippet can live successfully in a flat if daily life provides enough time outdoors, activity and opportunities to settle. The size of the home matters less than access to suitable outdoor areas, the noise environment and how often the dog needs to be left alone. For an individual that reacts to sound or struggles to settle, a noisy apartment building can be more demanding than the floor plan suggests.

Being left alone should be trained gradually. Start when the dog feels secure at home, leave for a very short time and increase it only while the dog remains calm. The breed often being described as affectionate does not mean every Whippet develops separation problems, and a second dog is not a reliable solution. Assess the individual dog's behaviour and take a step back in training if it shows signs of distress.

Plan for warmth, rest and safe transport as well. A short-coated dog may need extra protection in cold weather, but fit and freedom of movement matter more than a long equipment list. A quiet, sheltered sleeping place and gentle handling after strenuous activity also help you notice wounds, soreness or changes in movement early.

Before buying a puppy, ask for specific evidence:

- registered information and dated heart and eye results for both parents;
- BPH results or a clear description of temperament in the parents and close relatives;
- information about injuries, heart disease, eye disease, testicular status and immune-mediated disease in the family;
- the breeder's plan for socialisation, habituation to different environments and support after the puppy goes home.

The Whippet is best suited to someone who values a close companion while respecting that it is a fast sighthound. The deciding question is not whether the breed is always calm, easy or family-friendly, but whether you can provide safe exercise, consistent training and room for the variation between individuals.

Whippet

The Kennel Club (UK)

Swedish Kennel Club

Norwegian Kennel Club

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Société Centrale Canine (France)

Medium sighthound combining racing speed with calm companionship. Sleek, lean and Greyhound‑like, with a short, easy‑care coat but little weather protection. Sensitive, gentle and people‑oriented, it needs kind training, safe chances to sprint, soft warm bedding and a stable, quiet home.

Jorunn Synnøve Jenssen driver oppdrett av rasen Whippet og holder til i Ski i Norge. Oppdrettet har vært drevet under kennelnavnet Utzon siden minst 2014. Oppdrettet har vært aktivt på utstillinger i Norge og Danmark.

Jorunn Synnøve Jenssen

## Quick Facts

- The Newfoundland is a Canadian giant breed developed for heavy draught work and work in water. Today, it is mainly kept as a companion and water dog.
- The breed ideal is gentle, friendly and peaceful. This describes the aim of responsible breeding, not the automatic behaviour of every dog.
- An adult male averages about 71 centimetres in height and 68 kilograms in weight. The corresponding averages for females are about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms.
- The medium-length double coat is dense and water-resistant. The recognised colours are black, brown, and white and black.
- Its size makes early lead training, calm greetings and confident handling essential.
- Sweden has an official water trial for the breed, but interest in water and the ability to swim safely vary between individuals and require training.
- The breed is best suited to someone with enough space, time for coat care and a daily routine that works with a very large dog.

## Appearance & Coat

The Newfoundland should be massive, powerful and well muscled without appearing heavy or clumsy. The body is slightly longer than it is tall, and movement should convey effortless power. The breed standard stresses that maximum size must never take priority over symmetry, sound construction and correct movement.

Males average about 71 centimetres at the withers and 68 kilograms; females average about 66 centimetres and 54 kilograms. A suitable weight must still be judged from the individual dog's build, body condition and muscle mass.

The head is broad and the expression should convey gentleness. The large feet have webbing between the toes, and the powerful tail acts as a rudder when the dog swims.

The coat consists of medium-length, straight or slightly wavy outer hair and a soft, dense undercoat. The undercoat is usually thicker in winter but remains on parts of the body throughout the year. The colours are black, brown, and white and black. White and black is a colour within the Newfoundland breed; Landseer is also the name of a separate FCI-recognised breed and should not be confused with the colour description.

Base grooming frequency on the condition of the coat rather than a fixed weekly timetable. Work right down to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits, on the legs, under the neck and around the hindquarters. If a comb catches, a tangle remains even when the surface looks smooth. More frequent grooming is needed during heavy shedding.

After bathing or swimming, rinse the coat when necessary and dry it thoroughly down to the skin. Check the ears, feet, skin and areas prone to matting at the same time. Bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it; there is no single correct interval. The breed standard does not encourage clipping that alters the natural coat.

Expect hair, water and often drool in the home. The Newfoundland is not allergy-free. The main dog allergens are found particularly in skin and saliva, and their levels vary between individual dogs regardless of breed or coat type.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Newfoundland is gentle, friendly and peaceful, but the phrase “gentle giant” describes an ideal rather than guaranteeing safety. Ask to meet the puppy's mother and, if possible, other adult relatives. Look for dogs that greet people calmly, recover when something unexpected happens and can be handled without marked stress.

The breed usually likes to remain close to its family and is often willing to cooperate when the task is clear and training is kind. An adolescent can nevertheless be strong, clumsy and slow to mature, so household manners need to begin early.

Children and Newfoundlands can live very well together, but the breed's reputation as a “nanny dog” must not be taken literally. A responsible adult should always supervise dogs and young children. Children need to leave the dog alone while it eats or rests, and the dog needs a private place where nobody follows it. An adult must also be able to control the dog on walks and stop over-excited play; a friendly dog weighing more than 50 kilograms can knock a child over without intending harm.

The same care applies to other dogs and cats. Keep initial meetings calm, give each animal its own resources and ensure that a smaller animal can move away. An individual dog's experience and behaviour matter more than claims that the breed automatically likes every animal.

A Newfoundland is not automatically a guard dog either. Its size may deter people, but sharpness and suspicion are not part of the breed ideal.

## Training & Exercise

Training should make the Newfoundland easy to guide before it becomes heavy enough to win a physical contest. Prioritise walking on a loose lead, waiting at doors, recall, calm greetings and allowing the feet, ears, mouth and coat to be examined. Practise car travel and veterinary visits too. Reward the behaviour you want and introduce distractions gradually.

There is no reliable number of minutes that suits every dog. An adult Newfoundland needs daily movement and mental activity adapted to its age, body condition, fitness, health and the temperature. Unhurried walks, scent work, everyday obedience, draught work and water work may all suit the breed. Lameness, clear stiffness or a deterioration after activity are reasons to reduce the load and seek veterinary advice when needed.

For a puppy, the aim is varied, self-directed movement and good body awareness rather than fitness training. Let the puppy explore safe surfaces, practise simple balance exercises close to the ground and take short walks at its own pace. Avoid repeated high jumps, long enforced distances and running beside a bicycle. Formulae that allow a fixed number of minutes per month of age do not account for the individual, terrain or intensity.

Water work is a documented part of the breed's function. Sweden's official water trial includes obedience on land, retrieving from water and towing a person or boat. These skills are trained; a dog is not a trained rescue dog simply because of its breed. Begin in calm, shallow water, never force a worried dog in, and check the temperature, current, bottom and exit points. The handler also needs to be able to swim in exercises where dog and handler work together in the water.

The heavy body and dense coat limit activity in hot weather. Choose cooler times and stop if the dog is recovering poorly. Swimming can provide low-impact exercise for a healthy dog, but cold water, exhaustion and a difficult exit are genuine hazards.

## Health

Hips, elbows, heart and urinary tract are important areas to check when choosing a Newfoundland. Health data reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee that a puppy will remain healthy. Ask for both parents' registered names and check the results yourself rather than accepting that “tests have been done”.

Hip dysplasia, HD, and elbow dysplasia, ED, occur in the breed. Under the Swedish Kennel Club registration rules effective from 1 January 2026, both parents must have an official HD result and an official ED result before mating for the puppies to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club. A known result means that it has been recorded; it does not mean that every result is normal. Dogs with ED grade 2 or 3 must not be bred from, nor may dogs with symptoms, a clinical ED diagnosis or surgery for ED, regardless of their recorded grade.

The breed's RAS breeding strategy from 2016 recommends stricter selection than the basic requirement for a recorded result: primarily HD A or B and ED 0, with specified exceptions. This dated breeding recommendation is distinct from today's binding registration requirements. Check the actual results and ask how the breeder justifies the pairing. The Swedish Kennel Club's Avelsdata service also shows results for close relatives.

The Swedish Newfoundland Club also highlights subaortic stenosis, SAS, a narrowing in the heart's outflow tract towards the aorta. A murmur can prompt investigation, but mild cases can be difficult to detect with a stethoscope alone; ultrasound gives a more reliable assessment. Ask how, when and by whom the heart was examined. An SAS examination is not a binding Swedish Kennel Club requirement in the same way as the breed's HD and ED results.

The Newfoundland also has a breed-specific, autosomal recessive form of cystinuria. It can cause raised levels of cystine in the urine and sometimes cystine stones, although not every genetically affected dog develops stones. A DNA test can distinguish clear, carrier and affected dogs. Ask to see the result and understand how the pairing avoids affected puppies. A dog that repeatedly tries to urinate but passes little or no urine needs emergency veterinary care; males have a higher risk of urethral obstruction.

Gastric dilatation-volvulus, GDV, is an emergency that mainly affects large and giant dogs. Its cause is probably multifactorial, so simple feeding or exercise rules cannot promise protection. Unproductive retching, heavy salivation, restlessness and a swelling abdomen are warning signs. Weakness, collapse or breathing difficulty make the situation still more urgent. Seek veterinary care immediately if you suspect GDV, and discuss the individual risk and preventive gastropexy before an emergency occurs.

Keep the dog at a healthy body condition and seek advice for lameness, recurring stiffness, reduced stamina, fainting or pain. Check the skin and coat after they get wet. Do not avoid a veterinary visit because a problem is said to be “common in the breed”.

## History & Origins

The Newfoundland originated in Canada and is associated with work around the coast of Newfoundland. The official breed standard describes a dog used for heavy draught work and work in water. It states that the breed's type and working qualities were established by about 1610. The account of native dogs being crossed with large black dogs brought by Vikings is presented as a tradition, not proven ancestry.

The dogs worked alongside people where strength, swimming ability and stamina had practical value. The massive body, water-resistant coat, webbed feet and rudder-like tail suit that function. The breed's history does not, however, mean that every modern Newfoundland can rescue people without training.

Today, the Newfoundland is chiefly a companion. Water work continues through organised training and official trials, while some partnerships also take part in draught work.

## Living with the Breed

A Newfoundland requires more logistical planning than a medium-sized dog. Can it lie down without blocking walkways, get into the car, rest somewhere cool and be managed by an adult if it becomes ill or frightened? Slippery floors often need rugs, while numerous stairs can be difficult for a puppy, an injured dog or an older dog.

Living in a flat is not automatically unsuitable. Dogs exercise and train outdoors, but a giant dog can make a small home impractical. A lift, wide routes through the building, nearby toileting areas, how much sound carries to neighbours and the ability to keep the home cool matter more than the address. A house and garden do not replace walks, training or company.

The breed often wants to stay close to people, but time alone must be judged individually. An adult that has been trained gradually can usually remain alone for a few hours; a young puppy cannot. Increase the duration only when the dog can settle, and arrange a dog sitter or another solution if the working day is longer than the individual can manage. Persistent barking, pacing, damage or severe distress show that the arrangement needs to change.

Plan for regular grooming, cleaning, a large space in the car and higher food, insurance and veterinary costs. A harness or collar, travel restraint and bed must all work for the individual dog's size.

A Newfoundland may suit a first-time owner who seeks help early and can genuinely manage the size, but it is not an easy choice simply because its temperament is described as gentle. A suitable owner enjoys close cooperation, accepts hair and drool, trains consistently without harshness and can adjust activity for heat and health. If those conditions sound realistic, the breed can be a calm and engaged member of the family. If space, physical control or grooming already seem doubtful, a smaller dog is the wiser choice.

Newfoundland

Dansk Kennel Klub (Denmark)

Svenska Kennelklubben (Swedish Kennel Club)

The Newfoundland is a giant, water‑loving working dog with a dense, heavy‑shedding coat and notable drooling. Calm, loyal, and gentle with children, it needs close family contact, kind training, moderate exercise, careful grooming, space, and proactive health care for joints, heart, and bloat.

Sølvi Jane Schjelderup driver oppdrett av rasen Newfoundlandshund og holder til i Spydeberg i Norge.

Sølvi Jane Schjelderup

## Quick Facts

The Golden Retriever is a British gundog in FCI Group 8, developed to find and retrieve shot game in close cooperation with its handler. This background is still evident in the breed's willingness to work, interest in carrying objects and need for both physical activity and tasks to solve.

- **Origin:** Great Britain, with documented development in the border area between England and Scotland
- **Original purpose:** retrieving game birds on land and in water
- **Height at the withers:** 56–61 cm for males and 51–56 cm for females under the breed standard
- **Coat:** straight or wavy double coat with a dense, water-resistant undercoat
- **Colour:** shades of gold or cream; red and mahogany are not included in the standard
- **Breed ideal:** friendly, confident, intelligent, biddable and willing to work
- **Best suited to:** a home that wants to train and engage the dog and include it in daily life

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every individual. Temperament, activity level and everyday behaviour are also influenced by breeding priorities, parents, upbringing, health and training.

## Appearance & Coat

The Golden Retriever should be well balanced, proportionate and active, with a build capable of work without being heavy or exaggerated. Males are generally larger than females, but function, free movement and overall soundness matter more than a powerful appearance.

The coat consists of straight or wavy outer hair, fuller feathering and a dense, water-resistant undercoat. Permitted colours range from cream to different shades of gold. Red and mahogany are not standard colours, and white is limited to a few hairs on the chest. Colour or body shape does not, however, reliably predict an individual dog's activity level or willingness to work.

The double coat sheds and needs regular attention, especially when more undercoat is being released. Brush through the entire coat as needed and pay particular attention behind the ears, in the armpits and in the feathering on the legs and tail, where tangles form more readily. A comb helps confirm that brushing has reached through the undercoat. Bathe the dog when it is dirty rather than according to a fixed schedule. After swimming or wet walks, it is practical to untangle the coat, let it dry thoroughly and check the skin and ears if the dog shows signs of irritation.

Nail trimming, dental care and checks of the skin, ears and paws are part of routine care. The important point is to adapt the routine to the individual dog's coat, shedding, activity and how often it gets wet or dirty.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal for the Golden Retriever is a friendly, confident and biddable dog with a natural willingness to work and retrieve. Many seek contact, carry objects and enjoy shared tasks, but this description should not be taken to mean that every Golden Retriever is automatically calm, uncomplicated or sociable with everyone.

The breed often matures relatively late. A young Golden Retriever can remain physical, intense and easily distracted long after reaching full size. Everyday skills such as greeting calmly, following guidance, accepting handling and settling therefore need to be trained as deliberately as retrieving and obedience.

Breeders pursue different goals, including work in the shooting field, tests, shows or a broader companion focus. Labels such as “working Golden” and “show Golden” provide only a rough clue and do not reliably predict an individual's drive, appearance or ability to switch off. Instead, ask the breeder to describe the parents' and close relatives' everyday behaviour, willingness to work, fears, sociability and recovery after activity or stress. Working and temperament assessments can provide more information, but they are part of the evidence rather than guarantees.

The breed can suit a committed first-time owner, particularly with support from the breeder and a training class. It still requires readiness for a relatively large, strong and often lively adolescent dog that needs consistent routines, daily engagement and time to mature.

## Training & Exercise

The Golden Retriever needs daily physical activity, mental problem-solving and opportunities to recover, but there is no fixed daily duration that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness, personality and breeding focus determine how exercise should be divided and how demanding it can be.

A balanced adult routine may include walks over varied terrain, scent work, searches, retrieving, obedience and calm training in different environments. Variety offers more than trying to exhaust the dog with the same high-intensity activity every day. The breed was developed for cooperation, so tasks with a clear start, purpose and finish often suit it better than uncontrolled, rapid ball throwing.

Puppies need short, positive periods of play, exposure to different environments and movement, with plenty of rest between activities. The load should be adapted to the puppy's development and the surface underfoot, not calculated from a fixed rule based on minutes. Increase duration and difficulty gradually and let the puppy's stamina and recovery determine the next step.

Reward-based training generally suits the breed's willingness to cooperate. Prioritise these skills early:

- recall and engagement around people, dogs and game scent
- walking on a loose lead and greeting calmly
- releasing and exchanging objects without conflict
- steadiness and waiting before retrieving or play
- a learned cue for rest and settling

An interest in water is common, but not every Golden Retriever wants to enter the water and swimming ability should never be assumed. Introduce water in a shallow, calm area with an easy exit, allow the dog to set the pace and supervise continuously. Currents, weak ice, algal blooms and banks that are difficult to leave require particular caution.

## Health

Hips, elbows and eyes are central health areas in Swedish Golden Retriever breeding. Prospective puppy buyers need to distinguish between the Swedish Kennel Club's formal registration requirements, the breed club's recommendations and the result of an individual test.

For the offspring to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia status before mating. This does not mean that elbow grading, eye examination and DNA testing are equivalent mandatory Swedish Kennel Club requirements for every litter of the breed. The Swedish Golden Retriever Club's recommendations and puppy referral conditions go further: they include hip and elbow results, a current eye examination, GR_PRA1/2 status and certain merits.

The club normally recommends hip grades A or B and elbows graded clear. Dogs with hip grade C or elbow grade 1 should, under the recommendations, be used only exceptionally, and the litter's estimated hip or elbow index must then be at least 100. The eye certificate must be no more than two years old at mating, and at least one parent must be clear or hereditarily clear of both GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2.

Ask for the actual results, not merely a statement that the dogs have been “tested”. Check the hip and elbow grades, indexes where available, the date and result of the eye examination, and each parent's DNA status. GR_PRA1 and GR_PRA2 relate to specific mutations. The tests do not cover every genetic cause of PRA and therefore do not replace a clinical eye examination.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and some eye diseases occur in the breed. The breed-specific breeding strategy also identifies tumours as an important issue for the breed as a whole. Such evidence cannot be converted into a certain percentage or prognosis for an individual puppy. Also ask about the health and longevity of parents, siblings and older close relatives. Good screening results reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee future health.

## History & Origins

The Golden Retriever was developed during the latter part of the nineteenth century in the border area between England and Scotland to retrieve shot game on both land and water. Changing shooting practices created a need for a dog that could search, mark, wait and work with endurance in close cooperation with the handler.

Lord Tweedmouth's surviving breeding records document the early development. A yellow retriever was mated with a Tweed Water Spaniel, and continued selection shaped the qualities associated with the breed's retrieving, water work and cooperation. The Golden Retriever was recognised as a distinct breed in 1913 and was introduced to Sweden around 1950.

The breed's modern roles extend beyond practical shooting, but its background remains relevant. Searching, interest in objects, endurance and the ability to alternate between activity and waiting are qualities that need to be maintained through breeding and training, including in dogs that live primarily as companions.

## Living with the Breed

The Golden Retriever is best suited to people who want a sociable, trainable dog that can take part in daily life. A friendly breed ideal does not make everyday skills innate: a young Golden Retriever needs to learn to greet calmly, walk on a lead, handle objects appropriately and settle even when a lot is happening around it.

The breed can live well with children, but interaction requires adult supervision. Children should learn to respect the dog's rest, food and signals, while the dog needs training to greet and play without knocking people over or crowding them. The same care applies to other animals. Many Golden Retrievers live with dogs or cats, but introductions should be gradual, with control, distance and a safe retreat for the cat. The individual dog's previous experience and interest in chasing or carrying objects matter.

Flat living can work if there is a realistic plan for toilet breaks and training, as well as space for a wet coat and calm behaviour indoors. A garden is practical but does not replace walks, changes of environment or shared activity. The breed is often sociable, and time alone needs to be built gradually from short, secure periods. How long a particular dog can cope alone cannot be determined from the breed name.

Before buying a puppy, look beyond colour and the parents' titles. Ask the breeder to show official health results, indexes, the date of the eye examination and DNA status. Ideally, meet the dam, ask how close relatives behave at home and request specific examples of activity level, sociability, fears and recovery. Choose a litter whose documented qualities and the breeder's goals match the life you can genuinely provide.

Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever Club UK

Dansk Kennel Klub (Danish Kennel Club)

The Kennel Club UK

Friendly, medium‑large retriever with dense, water‑repellent golden coat and soft mouth. Highly trainable, people‑oriented and playful, needing daily inclusion, grooming and 1.5–2 hours of varied exercise. Bred as a gundog, now common as family, assistance and therapy dog.

Støtvigen driver oppdrett av rasen Golden retriever og holder til i Nykirke i Norge. Oppdrettet startet i 2003. Hunder fra oppdrettet har deltatt på utstillinger og working test.

Støtvigen

## Quick Facts

- The Bichon Frise is a small Franco-Belgian companion dog in FCI Group 9.
- The breed standard gives a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to size. Males may be 1 centimetre taller and females 2 centimetres shorter if they remain well balanced.
- An adult should be white, with a profuse coat of loose spiral curls and a soft, dense undercoat.
- The breed ideal is a cheerful, sociable and adaptable dog that likes to stay close to its people. Temperament still varies between individuals.
- Coat care takes both time and skill. Anyone who does not want to manage bathing, blow-drying, combing and trimming at home will need to arrange regular grooming appointments.
- The Bichon Frise is not an allergy-free dog. The amount of allergen produced varies between individuals, even within the same litter.

## Appearance & Coat

The Bichon Frise is small but should not look delicate. Its body is slightly longer than it is tall, while the white, curly coat creates the breed's rounded outline. The dark eyes and black nose form three distinct dark points in the face. The breed standard specifies a height of 25–29 centimetres at the withers and a weight of about 5 kilograms, in proportion to the dog's size. Males may be up to 30 centimetres and females as short as 23 centimetres, provided that their proportions remain balanced.

The coat has a curly outer layer and a soft, dense undercoat. An adult Bichon Frise should be pure white. Before twelve months of age, a puppy may have a slight beige or champagne tinge, but the standard says this must cover no more than one tenth of the dog. A pale tint on a young puppy is therefore not automatically an incorrect colour.

Coat care is one of the most important points to consider before choosing the breed. The curls need to be brushed and combed right down to the skin; if the comb catches, there is a tangle that needs to be eased out carefully. Brushing only the surface can leave a dense layer of matting close to the skin. During the puppy's coat change, often from about five to seven months but sometimes later, a thorough check may be needed every day.

The breed club uses bathing about every two weeks and trimming about every six weeks as practical guides. The interval depends on coat quality, length, weather and how thoroughly the coat is kept combed between sessions. Dry the coat completely after a bath without directing air that is too hot at the skin. Start early with short, positive sessions so the puppy becomes comfortable on a grooming table and with a brush, comb, paw handling and dryer. Ask the breeder or an experienced groomer to demonstrate the technique before tangles become a problem.

The breed is often suggested to people with allergies because it leaves relatively little visible hair around the home. That does not make the dog hypoallergenic. Dog allergens are found in sources including saliva and skin, and the amount differs from one dog to another. Anyone with an allergy should therefore assess their own circumstances and meet the particular dog several times; the breed name can never provide a guarantee.

## Temperament & Personality

The Bichon Frise is first and foremost a companion dog: people-oriented, lively and often easy to include in everyday life. The breed standard describes an adaptable dog that is sociable with people and other dogs, forms a close bond with its owners and should be neither nervous nor prone to frequent barking. This is a breeding ideal, not a promise of how every individual will behave.

The Swedish breed club's health survey presents a more nuanced picture. Most owners described their dogs as secure, cheerful and positive, but some dogs were reserved with strangers or cautious when meeting other dogs. Calm, early exposure to different environments therefore matters even in a breed known for being sociable. Let the puppy discover new people, surfaces, sounds and dogs at a pace that allows it to remain curious and engage willingly.

The breed can suit a first-time owner who wants to teach everyday skills and appreciates a close relationship with their dog. Its small size does not make ownership effortless. Coat care is substantial, a puppy needs frequent opportunities to toilet, and an adult needs daily activity, company and gradual training to spend time alone.

A Bichon Frise does not have to be noisy. An individual may nevertheless start reacting to sounds in a communal hallway, people passing a window or hectic situations. Reward calm behaviour, provide a place away from windows and the front door if necessary, and practise around everyday sounds before the response becomes a habit.

## Training & Exercise

The Bichon Frise needs physical activity and opportunities to use its brain every day, but there is no single number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, fitness and the day's other activities all matter. For a healthy adult, walks that allow time for sniffing can be combined with play and short training sessions. Puppies need more frequent but shorter outings, while an older dog may need a gentler pace and more breaks.

Although bred for companionship, the Bichon Frise can do far more than sit on a lap. Swedish owners take part in activities including nosework, rally obedience, obedience and agility. Competition is not the point; the aim is to give the dog tasks it understands, such as finding a hidden toy, following a short scent trail, learning a trick or practising attention on a walk. A suitable daily routine helps the dog stay in good condition, remain curious outdoors and settle at home.

Training works best when it is reward-based, introduced step by step and adapted to the individual. Short sessions make concentration easier. Give particular attention to recall, walking on a lead, waiting calmly and standing still for coat care. Handling practice is an essential everyday skill for a Bichon Frise, not something to postpone until its first trim.

There is no good evidence that the Bichon Frise is unusually difficult to housetrain as a breed. Puppies learn at different rates. Take the puppy outside after sleep, meals and play, reward toileting outdoors and do not punish accidents. If a previously housetrained dog suddenly starts urinating indoors, investigate the cause rather than dismissing the behaviour as stubbornness.

## Health

The breed club's latest Swedish review describes the breed's general health as good to very good, but relatively few dogs were examined in some years and an owner survey cannot replace veterinary diagnoses. Check the parents' documented results rather than relying on a general assurance that the breed is usually healthy.

Patellar status, which records the position of the kneecap, is an important Swedish checkpoint. The Swedish Kennel Club will not register the litter if the parents lack an official patellar result. The examination must have been carried out when each parent was at least one year old, and the result must be available before mating. As its main recommendation, the breed club advises grade 0, with no abnormality, in both parents. Ask the breeder to show the results in the Swedish Kennel Club databases and ask about knee problems in close relatives.

Eye health also needs attention, but the rules are different. The Swedish Kennel Club's former eye examination requirement has been removed. The breed club still recommends that breeding dogs have an eye examination certificate no more than twelve months old at the time of mating and advises how certain findings may be combined. Ask about both a current eye examination and eye diagnoses in the family without describing the examination as a current registration requirement.

Watery eyes were reported in the Swedish health survey, but it did not establish the causes. Tear staining shows quickly on a white coat, yet the condition of the eye matters more than the colour of the hair. New or increased tearing, squinting, pain, swelling or a change in vision should be examined by a vet. The breed's health strategy also notes recurrent itching and allergy problems, but the evidence is not strong enough to give reliable frequency figures.

Dental care is an important routine for every dog. Daily tooth brushing is the best preventive measure against periodontal disease and makes it easier to notice redness, bad breath or damaged teeth early. Introduce the puppy gradually to having its lips lifted and teeth touched, using the same calm approach as for coat care.

## History & Origins

The documented modern history of the Bichon Frise is Franco-Belgian. The FCI describes small dogs of this type being brought from Italy to France during the Renaissance. The name developed from barbichon to bichon, and paintings from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries show similar dogs with royalty and other prominent people.

The breed returned to fashion during the reign of Napoleon III, when it was known as the Ténériffe. The population came close to disappearing after the two world wars, but French and Belgian breeders rebuilt it. The current French name, bichon à poil frisé, was established in 1978 when the breed was recognised as Franco-Belgian. It arrived in Sweden in 1976, and the first Swedish litters were born the following year.

There are also colourful stories about sailors, rat-catching and travelling dogs, but these are less well documented. The best-supported account is primarily the history of a European companion dog.

## Living with the Breed

A Bichon Frise can live successfully in either a flat or a house because the size of the home matters less than the daily routine. The dog needs regular outings, activity every day and training to remain calm around sounds outside the front door. Swedish welfare guidance advises that adult dogs should be taken out at least every six hours during the day; puppies and older dogs need more frequent opportunities.

Time alone must be introduced gradually. Start once the dog feels secure at home, step away for a very short time and increase the duration only while the dog remains calm. One adult may manage a few hours, while another needs more company or a dog sitter. Howling, destructive behaviour, restlessness or refusing food means the training should be scaled back and may need to be discussed with a qualified trainer or vet.

The same safety rules that apply to other dogs are needed around children. Young children and dogs should have an adult present, and the dog needs its own resting place where it will be left alone. The Bichon's small body requires gentle handling; children should not carry the dog or disturb it while it is eating or sleeping. If there is already a dog or cat in the home, introductions should be calm and allow plenty of distance. The breed's sociable ideal does not remove the need for a careful introduction.

The breed is best suited to someone who wants a close companion and accepts that coat care is a weekly commitment. Before buying a puppy, you should be able to see the parents' patellar and eye results, ask how they cope with time alone, sounds, people and dogs, and receive a practical coat-care demonstration. This bases the decision on the dog and the life you will actually share, rather than on promises of an undemanding small pet.

Bichon Frise

Deutscher Bichon Frisé Club e.V.

Small, sturdy companion dog (23–30 cm, 5–8 kg) with a cottony white, low‑shedding coat that needs frequent grooming. Cheerful, people‑oriented, and adaptable to city or house living, it enjoys play and cuddles, moderate daily exercise, and close inclusion in family life.

Ann-Kristin Stenersen driver oppdrett av rasen Bichon frisé og holder til i Stabekk i Norge. Oppdrettet kan spores tilbake til minst 2012.

Ann-Kristin Stenersen

## Quick Facts

The Yorkshire Terrier is a small British terrier kept primarily as a companion, but it should still be alert, intelligent and spirited, with an even temperament.

- The breed is recognised by the FCI as British terrier number 86, in Group 3 and the Toy Terrier section.
- The breed standard sets a maximum weight of 3.2 kg but no minimum weight or height at the withers. In practice, many dogs are heavier than the standard maximum.
- “Teacup” is not an official Yorkshire Terrier size category. The label therefore cannot guarantee a dog’s adult size or health.
- The coat should be straight, glossy, fine and silky. A long coat requires considerable care; clipping it short reduces the work but does not make it maintenance-free.
- The clearest documented health priorities are the teeth, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation, or slipping kneecaps.

## Appearance & Coat

The Yorkshire Terrier should be compact, neat and well proportioned, with an upright carriage and free movement. It may be very small, but it should not look fragile or exaggeratedly miniaturised.

The 3.2 kg maximum describes the show standard’s ideal, not a promise for every adult dog. The standard gives no height at the withers. SKK reports that most dogs are around 20–25 cm and that many weigh more than the standard maximum; even puppies in the same litter can reach different adult sizes. A puppy buyer should therefore ask for the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives rather than rely on terms such as “mini” or “teacup”.

The standard adult coat is dark steel blue over the body and clear golden tan on areas including the head and chest. The hair should be straight and glossy with a fine, silky texture, not woolly. Puppies are born black and tan, and the steel-blue adult colour develops gradually. The pace at which colour and texture mature varies, so a puppy coat cannot show exactly what the adult dog will look like.

A long coat needs frequent, thorough combing all the way to the skin, particularly where the hair is exposed to friction. Many companion dogs are clipped short for an easier routine. This makes bathing, drying and detangling less time-consuming, but the dog still needs brushing and must learn to accept handling around the face, ears, feet and nails. The coat has no undercoat, which can also mean that the dog needs protection in cold, wet weather.

The Yorkshire Terrier is sometimes described as suitable for people with allergies because it sheds little visible hair. That is misleading as a guarantee: no dog is allergen-free, and dog allergens come from sources including saliva and skin cells. Anyone who has or suspects an animal allergy should seek medical advice before getting a dog.

A tricoloured Biewer Terrier is not a special Yorkshire Terrier colour. In Sweden and the other Nordic countries, the Biewer Terrier is treated as a separate breed, despite its close historical relationship with the Yorkshire Terrier. It is not, however, recognised by the FCI.

## Temperament & Personality

The Yorkshire Terrier is generally attentive, curious and ready to act, rather than a passive lapdog. The breed standard emphasises intelligence, spirit and an even disposition, but sociability, barking and interest in chasing vary between dogs and are influenced by upbringing and training.

Its quick response to sounds and movement can make the breed inclined to sound the alarm. That does not mean every dog barks excessively. A dog that is allowed to investigate its surroundings calmly, rewarded for quiet behaviour and taught to settle is better equipped to handle sounds at the door and movement outside a window. Simply interrupting barking without changing its cause rarely creates a sustainable routine.

The terrier background may show as an interest in toys, scents and small animals. Recall and the ability to disengage from something exciting therefore need training, even with a dog that is easy to pick up. Living with a cat or another dog depends more on the individual, the introduction and daily routines than on a simple yes-or-no verdict for the breed.

With children, the small body is the most important practical consideration. A child must be able to let the dog move away, play at floor level and refrain from carrying or chasing it. Contact with young children should be supervised. The same care is needed during play with much larger dogs, because friendly but physical play can still be too rough for a Yorkshire Terrier.

## Training & Exercise

The Yorkshire Terrier needs daily physical and mental activity, but there is no meaningful number of minutes that suits every dog. A good day includes several toilet outings, walks with time to sniff, play, simple problem-solving and training in which the dog can succeed.

Adapt the amount and intensity to age, fitness, weather and the individual. It is more useful to observe how the dog functions in everyday life and adjust one thing at a time than to chase a generic number of minutes.

Reward-based training suits the breed’s quick understanding. Prioritise engagement, recall, loose-lead skills, a calm resting place and an alternative behaviour when the dog wants to alert. Also practise grooming, showing the teeth and nail care in small steps. This makes everyday care safer and reduces the need to restrain the dog.

Socialisation does not mean that a puppy must greet everyone. It needs calm, positive experiences of people, dogs, surfaces, traffic and household sounds without being pressured. The breed may also enjoy scent work, rally obedience, tracking, tricks or agility adapted to its size. The particular activity matters less than giving the dog ways to use both body and mind.

## Health

The Yorkshire Terrier is relatively long-lived as a population, but the teeth and knee joints deserve particular attention. SKK highlights dental calculus, retained deciduous teeth and patellar luxation as issues to know about.

A British study published in 2025 reviewed the records of 3,308 Yorkshire Terriers attending general veterinary practices during 2016. Periodontal disease was the most common specific diagnosis and was recorded in 21.1 per cent during the study year. Retained deciduous teeth were recorded in 3.57 per cent, and the researchers also identified patellar luxation as a breed predisposition. The figures describe a British study group during a defined period, not the risk for a particular Swedish dog, but they make dental care a clear everyday priority.

Start getting the puppy accustomed to tooth brushing early. Daily tooth brushing is the best practical protection against plaque and calculus, but training should be built without force. Ask a veterinarian to check the transition to adult teeth if deciduous teeth remain as the permanent teeth erupt or if the dog appears to have a painful mouth.

Ask the breeder to explain what is known about teeth, bite and knee joints in the parents and close relatives. Ask whether the parents have been examined for patellar luxation and request documented results if available. A single test can reduce uncertainty but can never guarantee a healthy puppy.

There is no universal, permanent Yorkshire Terrier test package across all kennel clubs. Before buying or breeding, check the current Swedish registration rules and recommendations from SKK and the breed club rather than relying on an old list found online.

In the British study, the median age at death was 13.56 years, supporting the picture of a long-lived breed. This is a population measure, not a forecast for an individual. Body condition, oral health, movement, behavioural changes and regular veterinary care need attention throughout life.

## History & Origins

The Yorkshire Terrier developed in northern England during the 1800s and took shape in Yorkshire’s textile districts. From the 1850s, weavers and wool-mill workers bred very small, soft-coated terriers that retained the terrier’s interest in hunting and also became sought-after companion dogs.

The breed’s exact recipe is not securely documented. The old Black and Tan Terrier, together with the Maltese, Dandie Dinmont Terrier and Skye Terrier, are mentioned as probable contributors. It is therefore more accurate to speak of likely ancestors than to name a definite cross.

The breed name was accepted around 1870, and the Yorkshire Terrier was recognised as a breed in 1886. During the later 1800s, it moved from the small terriers of working communities to a modern companion and show dog. The rat-catching story has a reasonable basis in the terrier background and the breed standard’s description of hunting instinct, but not every early dog necessarily worked in a mine or factory.

The elegant coat has since received great attention, but the breed’s alert expression, initiative and interest in movement remain important to the breed as a whole.

## Living with the Breed

The Yorkshire Terrier can live well in a flat or a house when it receives activity, calmness training and regular care. The size of the home matters less than whether the household can manage noise, provide time outdoors and create a secure daily rhythm.

Time alone needs to be introduced gradually from very short periods and adapted to the dog’s response. The Swedish Board of Agriculture advises that dogs should be taken outside at least every six hours during the day, but this does not mean that a dog can cope with six hours alone. Puppies and older dogs need more frequent outings, and a dog showing distress needs a different arrangement regardless of what the clock says.

The breed best suits someone who wants a small but active dog and accepts three recurring parts of everyday life: coat, teeth and training. A family with young children or large dogs also needs clear safety routines. Cold and wet weather may require protection, particularly when the coat is clipped short or the dog is standing still.

Before buying a puppy, it is sensible to:

- meet the dam and ask how the parents and adult relatives behave in everyday life
- request the actual weights of the parents and adult relatives and reject promises of a particular “teacup” size
- review documented dental, bite and patella history as well as current breeding recommendations
- decide whether to maintain a long coat or keep the dog clipped, and learn that routine before purchase
- arrange toilet outings, alone-time training and a dog sitter before the puppy comes home.

In the right household, the Yorkshire Terrier is a small, engaged everyday companion with a distinct terrier character. It is easy to take along, but it should be treated as an active dog, not an accessory.

Yorkshire Terrier

FCI - Fédération Cynologique Internationale

Deutscher Verband für das Hundewesen (German Kennel Club)

Société Centrale Canine (French Kennel Club)

The Yorkshire Terrier is a tiny, confident toy dog originally bred as a rat catcher in northern England. It has a fine, silky coat needing regular grooming, is lively, intelligent and often vocal. Yorkies bond closely with their families, need daily activity, and can live a long, active life.

Helene Foss

## Quick Facts

- The Shetland Sheepdog, often called a Sheltie, is a small British companion and herding dog with a background as a farm dog on the Shetland Islands.
- The breed standard describes an active, alert, friendly and intelligent dog that is attentive to its owner. Reserve towards strangers is acceptable, but nervousness is not.
- The ideal height at the withers is 37 cm for males and 35.5 cm for females. The breed standard specifies no ideal weight.
- The long double coat needs to be groomed through to the skin, especially behind the ears and during shedding, but should not require routine full-body clipping.
- The breed is best suited to someone who wants to combine everyday exercise with training, scent work or other mental activity and who can work calmly on sounds, environments and time alone.
- When choosing a puppy, documented eye results, the temperament of close relatives and knowledge of MDR1 and merle matter more than general promises that the breed is always healthy or easy to live with.

## Appearance & Coat

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small, light and agile dog that should be slightly longer than tall. The breed standard's ideals are 37 cm at the withers for males and 35.5 cm for females; a deviation of more than 2.5 cm in either direction is highly undesirable under the standard. These are ideals for breed assessment, not a guarantee for every individual. The standard gives no ideal weight, so body condition and build are better guides than a single figure on the scales.

The head should form a long, blunt wedge. The skull and muzzle should be equal in length, with the midpoint at the inner corner of the eye. The eyes are almond-shaped and usually dark brown; in blue merles they may be wholly or partly blue. The small ears are carried back at rest and brought forward with folded tips when the dog is alert.

The coat is double: the outer coat is long, straight and somewhat harsh, while the undercoat is short, soft and dense. A thorough grooming about once a week suits many dogs, with more frequent care during shedding. Comb all the way to the skin and pay particular attention behind the ears. Hair around the feet and on the hocks can be tidied when needed. After a bath, the coat needs to dry right through to the skin.

Accepted colours are sable, tricolour, blue merle, black and white, and black and tan, although the last is not seen in modern times. Blue merle should have an overall silver-blue appearance with black marbling. White markings may appear on areas including the blaze, collar, chest, frill, legs and tip of the tail; white body patches, however, are highly undesirable under the standard. The colour standard and the genetic rules for merle are separate issues.

## Temperament & Personality

A typical Shetland Sheepdog is alert, friendly, intelligent and closely focused on its owner, but individuals differ clearly in sociability, sensitivity to sound and confidence. A dog may be cool towards strangers and choose not to greet them, but fear should not be dismissed as normal reserve.

The Swedish Kennel Club's BPH behavioural analysis shows why an average is not enough when choosing a dog. The Shelties described showed little fear in several test situations, but there was marked variation in situations including greetings and surprises. The analysis applies to the participants and cannot predict an individual puppy. Ask how the parents and close relatives react to strangers, sounds and new environments, and how quickly they recover.

The breed historically had to stay watchful and raise the alarm. This can make barking an important everyday consideration, but it does not mean that every Sheltie is very vocal. The fact that few dogs barked or whined where noise was not expected during BPH does not mean that the breed is always quiet at home when someone walks through the stairwell. Assess the individual dog and rearing environment you are actually choosing.

Shelties are described as dogs that can typically mix with other dogs without conflict, but this guarantees neither every encounter nor life with cats and small pets. Early experiences, the individual dog's behaviour and controlled introductions all matter greatly.

## Training & Exercise

The Shetland Sheepdog needs physical activity and mental tasks every day, but there is no serious minute-by-minute quota that suits every individual. A good routine alternates walks with opportunities to sniff, short training sessions, play and rest. Agility, rally obedience, obedience, nose work and trick training can suit the breed's speed and willingness to cooperate, but dog sport is not essential if everyday life already provides varied movement and problem-solving.

Use reward-based, progressive training that takes the dog's sensitivity into account. Harsh voices can increase uncertainty; make the situation easier instead and reward the behaviour you want. For a dog that reacts to sounds at the door, movement outside a window or visitors, you can:

- increase the distance or block the trigger so the dog can still think;
- reward the dog for turning back to you and settling calmly in a designated place;
- practise with quiet, predictable sounds before increasing the difficulty;
- give the dog a break if it cannot take a reward or settle.

The aim is not to stop all communication, but to help the dog disengage, recover and settle. If your particular dog starts chasing, circling or nipping at running children, bicycles or other fast movement, treat it as a specific safety and training problem rather than excusing it as breed background. Use a lead or distance while teaching a safe alternative.

Puppies need short, positive experiences and plenty of recovery. Increase demands and difficulty in line with the dog's age, fitness and confidence. In an adult dog, the ability to rest between activities matters just as much as the distance it can walk.

## Health

The Shetland Sheepdog has several well-documented health concerns, particularly involving the eyes, and a sound puppy choice starts with verifiable results rather than the phrase “healthy lines”. Ask the breeder to show registered examinations and explain why the particular parent combination was chosen.

CEA, collie eye anomaly, is a congenital change in the development of the eye. The milder change, CRD, is not normally considered to affect vision, while coloboma can. Some CEA changes are easiest to see when a young puppy receives an eye examination and may later be hidden by pigment. PRA, by contrast, is a progressive retinal disease that can lead to blindness. A DNA test shows whether the dog has a particular tested genetic variant; it does not reveal every eye change. The breed has more than one form of PRA as well as other retinal diseases, so DNA testing and a clinical eye examination answer different questions.

The former Swedish health programme that required an eye certificate no more than one year old before breeding ended in 2017. The breed club's breed-specific breeding strategy, RAS, recommends eye examinations for puppies, an examination after one year of age before breeding and follow-up of older breeding dogs. Recommendations are not the same as registration requirements. Check the Swedish Kennel Club's latest rules and registered results before buying or breeding.

MDR1, also called ABCB1, affects a transport protein that helps protect the brain from certain substances. The mutation has been found in Shetland Sheepdogs and can increase the risk of serious adverse reactions to some medicines. Only an individual DNA test establishes a particular dog's status. Keep the result and show it to the veterinarian; never change a dose or treatment based on a list found online.

Injuries to the hock and other joint problems are also documented in the breed's Swedish breeding strategy. Ask about lameness, hock problems and joint results in the parents and older relatives, but do not treat a single radiograph result as a complete guarantee.

Blue merle is an accepted colour, but two dogs carrying merle must not be mated. Doubling the variant creates a risk of serious defects, including defects of sight and hearing. The Swedish Kennel Club prohibits registration of offspring from two merle Shelties and has specific rules for hidden merle in sable offspring.

## History & Origins

The Shetland Sheepdog comes from the Shetland Islands and developed from small farm dogs. Crosses with Collies are documented, while much else about the early ancestry rests on assumptions.

On the islands, the dogs were used, among other things, to keep sheep away from crops and to raise the alarm on the farm. They are therefore not described primarily as specialised herding dogs of the modern kind. Their small size and weather-resistant coat suited a harsh, windy and damp climate where resources were limited.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the breed was shaped towards a more consistent type. The British Kennel Club recognised the Shetland Sheepdog in 1914, and the first individual arrived in Sweden in 1930. The Sheltie is a distinct FCI-recognised breed with its own standard, size and development.

## Living with the Breed

The Shetland Sheepdog can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the individual dog's temperament and the household routine are a good match. Its size is convenient, while awareness of sound, need for cooperation and variation in confidence may matter more than the home's floor area.

An adult should always supervise interactions in a family with children. Children need to let the dog eat, sleep and withdraw undisturbed. Do not choose the breed solely because it is said to be “good with children”; ask about the dog's own experiences and the parents' temperaments.

Introductions to a cat or another dog should be controlled, with room for distance and separate resting places. Reward calm behaviour and prevent chasing or crowding while the relationship develops. Small pets require physical protection even if the dog appears friendly.

Flat living can work if the dog receives daily activity and can rest despite stairwells, lifts and neighbours. Assess the sound environment and ask which puppies recover easily after new experiences. A garden does not replace walks, training or company.

Time alone must be built up gradually, once the puppy feels secure in the home. Start with very short, uneventful periods and increase them only while the dog remains calm. An adult dog that has learned to be alone may manage a few hours, but individual differences are substantial and a young puppy should not be left alone. If the dog barks, paces, pants or cannot settle, take the training back a step and arrange daily life so the dog is not left beyond its ability.

The breed is a strong choice for someone who appreciates an attentive, trainable dog and is prepared for coat care, sound training and mental activity. It is less suitable for someone seeking a completely independent dog, a guaranteed quiet home or a dog that must be left alone for long working days.

Shetland Sheepdog

Shetland Sheepdog Club of the UK

The Shetland Sheepdog is a small to medium, agile herding breed with a dense double coat and striking colors. Bright, sensitive, and very people focused, it bonds closely with family, is reserved with strangers, excels in dog sports, and needs regular grooming, daily walks, and mental exercise.

Bjørn Ragnar Teigen driver oppdrett av rasen Shetland sheepdog og holder til i Åmot i Norge. Oppdrettserfaringen med rasen går tilbake til minst 2015, da oppdrettet ble drevet som medoppdrett.

Bjørn Ragnar Teigen

## Quick Facts

- The Belgian Shepherd Groenendael is the long-haired black variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. The FCI treats the Groenendael, Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois as four varieties of one breed.
- The ideal height at the withers is 62 cm for males and 58 cm for females. The standard allows two centimetres below and four centimetres above the ideal. Approximate weights are 25–30 kg for males and 20–25 kg for females.
- The Groenendael is a medium-sized, square and athletic working dog with rapid reactions. It needs both purposeful activity and the ability to settle.
- The breed ideal is watchful, active, confident and willing to work, but also calm and fearless without aggression. Heredity, early experience and training greatly influence the individual dog.
- The long double coat is uniformly black. A small amount of white is tolerated on the forechest and toes.
- The breed suits someone who wants to train regularly, can read a fast-reacting dog and will choose a breeder for temperament and health, not merely for the black coat.

## Appearance & Coat

The Groenendael should combine elegance and power without heaviness. The body is approximately as long as the height at the withers, the chest reaches the elbows and the head is carried high. The ears are small, triangular and erect. Movement should be free, easy and lively, and the dog should be able to change direction quickly without losing balance.

All four Belgian Shepherd varieties share the same fundamental construction. They are distinguished mainly by coat length, texture and colour. Groenendaels and Tervuerens are long-haired, while the Groenendael must be uniformly black. A small white patch on the forechest and a little white on the toes are tolerated.

The coat has a dense, woolly undercoat and abundant protective outer hair. Hair is shorter on the head, the outside of the ears and the lower legs. Longer hair forms a ruff and apron around the neck and chest, fringes on the forelegs, breeches on the thighs and a plume on the tail.

Let the comb and skin determine the grooming schedule. Check the ruff, behind the ears, armpits, breeches and tail with your fingers and a comb. If the comb catches or the undercoat lies densely against the skin, the coat needs a more thorough brushing. This may be frequent during shedding and much less often between shedding periods. Bathe the dog when dirty and dry the coat right down to the skin. Check the claws, ears, skin and teeth at the same time.

## Temperament & Personality

The Groenendael is a quick, observant dog that may notice movement, sounds and changes before its owner does. The FCI describes the Belgian Shepherd as watchful, active and full of energy, always ready to act. The same standard also calls for confidence, calmness and fearlessness without aggression. High activity and stability are not opposites.

How open the dog is with people varies. It need not want to greet everyone, but it should be able to remain among people without becoming fearful or threatening. Practise passing people, receiving visitors and accepting handling without turning every person into a new task. Provide distance when needed and reward calm choices.

Older Swedish MH behavioural-assessment results show why a breed average is not enough. Results differed between the varieties, and handling and responses to gunshots have been among the areas the breed club wanted to improve in Groenendaels. The data concern older generations and cannot predict a puppy today.

Ask to see the parents' complete MH diagrams rather than accepting that they have “known mental status”. Ask about full siblings and earlier offspring as well: how do they recover after surprises, cope with body handling and respond to noise, unfamiliar people and dogs? A title or completed test does not replace this everyday evidence.

## Training & Exercise

The Groenendael needs daily physical activity, scent work, learning and recovery, but no fixed number of hours suits every dog. An adult may enjoy walks over varied ground, tracking, searching, obedience, herding or other tasks that engage both body and mind. Choose activities according to the individual's motivation, health and ability to settle afterwards.

Early training should prioritise the skills that make a fast, reactive dog safe in everyday life:

- walking on a loose lead and turning calmly away from distractions
- attention and recall in safe environments
- waiting at doors, by the car and beside the training area
- seeing people, dogs and movement without immediately acting
- calm, voluntary handling of paws, mouth, ears and coat
- a learned resting place and the ability to sleep after activity

Reward-based training provides clear information without needless conflict. Groenendaels often learn quickly, and unwanted behaviour can be learned just as fast. Reward what you want before the dog has time to lunge, bark or become over-aroused. Food, play, sniffing, greater distance and access to an activity can all be effective rewards.

More training is not always the answer to high activity. A dog that becomes increasingly frantic or vocal, or cannot sleep after a session, may need simpler tasks, longer breaks and fewer stimuli. Puppies and adolescents should move in varied ways without long runs, heavy physical strain or repeated jumping. Lameness, stiffness or reluctance to move should be assessed by a vet.

## Health

Several mandatory Swedish breeding conditions apply to Belgian Shepherds. Both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result. Dogs graded C, D or E should not be used for breeding in this breed; offspring from such a dog receive a permanent breeding restriction. Check that both parents are graded A or B rather than merely being told that they were X-rayed.

Both parents must also have an official elbow dysplasia result. This does not automatically mean grade 0. The Swedish Kennel Club generally recommends grade 0; dogs graded 2 or 3 must not be bred from, while grade 1 should be used only sparingly and with a grade-0 dog. Ask to see the exact hip and elbow grades and their dates.

Breeding dogs resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have “known mental status”. For dogs born from 2016 onwards, this means a complete MH assessment with entries in all 33 positions. An interrupted MH does not count, but the dog still gains known status if the handler declines the gunshot element. Known mental status therefore confirms completion, not that the dog “passed” every situation.

Epilepsy is a documented concern, particularly in the long-haired Groenendael and Tervueren varieties. An older Danish study and a Swedish survey cannot be used as current Swedish prevalence figures, but they show why family history matters. There is no simple DNA result that clears an entire family. Ask about seizures or seizure-like episodes in the parents, full and half siblings, earlier offspring and older relatives, including cases that appeared only after a dog had already been bred from.

Gastric cancer is another issue to investigate. A Dutch study published in 2024 found both increased occurrence and a clear hereditary component in Groenendaels and Tervuerens within the population studied. Its results are not Swedish prevalence figures, and there is not yet a genetic test that can clear an individual dog. Ask the breeder about gastric cancer in older close relatives. Recurrent vomiting, reduced appetite, weight loss or persistent digestive problems should be assessed by a vet.

An eye examination is not a mandatory breed-specific condition in Sweden's 2026 registration rules, but eye disease forms part of the breed's health work. Ask about current eye results and diagnoses among relatives. Obtain the actual documents: “all tests completed” says nothing about the results.

## History & Origins

The Belgian Shepherd developed from the varied types of sheepdog found in Belgium in the late nineteenth century. The Club du Chien de Berger Belge was founded in Brussels on 29 September 1891. On 15 November that year, Professor A. Reul assembled 117 dogs in Cureghem to record the existing type and select suitable breeding animals.

The first detailed breed standard was written on 3 April 1892 and described one breed with three coat varieties. The first Belgian Shepherds entered the Belgian stud book in 1901. According to the FCI, breed type and temperament were largely established by about 1910.

The rules for colours and coats continued to change. After the population fell sharply during the Second World War, the breed was rebuilt, and the four present varieties were fixed in 1974: Groenendael, Tervueren, Malinois and Laekenois. The Groenendael was the first Belgian Shepherd variety to reach Sweden, arriving in the early 1950s.

## Living with the Breed

The Groenendael can live successfully in many types of home, but is poorly suited to a routine of brief toilet walks and few shared activities. Its owner needs to help it switch between work and rest. This matters more than whether the home is a house or a flat.

Active adult supervision is essential around children. A fast dog can knock a child over or become over-aroused by running and shouting without being aggressive. Children must never disturb the dog while it eats, sleeps or moves away. Judge adult relatives by their actual behaviour around children rather than relying on the label “family dog”.

Living with another dog, a cat or a smaller animal must be assessed individually. Early familiarity may help, but it does not replace gates, separate resting places and controlled introductions. A dog that lives well with the household cat may still react to a running cat outdoors.

Flat living can work if there are good opportunities for activity, crowded encounters can be managed and the dog learns to rest despite outside noise. Introduce time alone gradually from brief periods. Increase it only when the dog can eat, rest and return to a calm state; distress, pacing or persistent noise means the step was too large.

A well-prepared first-time owner may succeed with support from the breeder and a knowledgeable trainer, but the breed is a poor choice for someone seeking a dog that easily ignores its surroundings. Meet the dam and preferably several adult relatives, observe them in everyday life and training, and check the hip, elbow and MH results yourself. Ask about epilepsy, gastric cancer, eyes and temperament in the family. Choose a puppy for how the adult dogs fit your life, not merely for the black coat.

Belgian Shepherd Groenendael

The Belgian Shepherd Dog Association of Great Britain

Svenska Brukshundklubben (Swedish Working Dog Club)

Société Royale Saint-Hubert (Royal Saint Hubert Society of Belgium)

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (German Shepherd Association)

Medium‑large, square‑built Belgian herding dog with a long, dense, solid black coat. Intelligent, energetic, and highly trainable, it excels in sports and working roles. Deeply loyal, watchful, and people‑oriented, it needs daily exercise, mental work, and regular grooming.

Lars Asper driver oppdrett av rasen Belgisk fårehund, groenendael og holder til i Kløfta i Norge.

Lars Asper

## Quick Facts

The Pomeranian is the smallest variety of German Spitz: a very small but lively companion dog with a dense double coat, an alert nature and a readiness to bark. It is best suited to someone who wants to train and engage a real dog in a small body, rather than someone looking for a dog that will mainly be carried.

- **Breed and origin:** German Spitz, Pomeranian/Zwergspitz, originating in Germany and later developed in England
- **Size:** typically 18–23 cm at the withers and around 2–3 kg; the breed standard specifies 21 cm with permitted variation and says weight should be appropriate for the dog's size
- **Expected lifespan:** approximately 12–16 years is a guide, not a promise for an individual dog
- **Temperament:** often alert, cheerful, affectionate and quick to learn, although the individual, upbringing and daily life all have a major influence
- **Activity:** daily walks, scent work and short training sessions, with time for calm and recovery
- **Coat care:** a thorough groom approximately every other week and more often during shedding
- **Points to consider:** barking, dental care, patella status and safe handling around young children and much larger dogs

“Teacup Pomeranian” and “mini Pomeranian” are not separately recognised size varieties. They are marketing terms that offer no more reliable prediction of adult size, health or temperament. The official variety is called Pomeranian or Zwergspitz. Assess the parents, adult relatives, health information and the breeder's aims instead of relying on a sales label.

## Appearance & Coat

The Pomeranian is compact and squarely built, with a small, pointed head, small upright ears and a profuse tail carried high over the back. Its abundant coat gives it a rounder outline than the body underneath.

The breed has a double coat. The outer coat should be long, straight and standing away from the body, while the undercoat is short, dense and soft. The coat forms a distinct ruff around the neck, breeches on the hind legs and a bushy tail. The standard describes a natural coat that should not look shaped by trimming. Recognised colours include white, black, brown, orange and wolf grey, as well as several other defined colours and combinations.

A thorough groom approximately every other week is a useful starting point according to the Swedish Kennel Club, but many dogs need more frequent brushing while shedding. Work through the coat down to the skin rather than merely smoothing the surface. Increase care as soon as small tangles begin to form. Frequency should follow the dog's coat, the season and its daily routine; one fixed schedule will not suit every individual.

Coat quality matters more than maximum volume. A correct double coat contains both outer coat and undercoat. An abundance of undercoat combined with a lack of outer coat is a recognised problem in the breed and can make the coat difficult to manage. When meeting a breeder, it is therefore useful to see adult dogs, not only a puppy's soft puppy coat.

## Temperament & Personality

Pomeranians are often alert, lively and strongly attached to their people. The breed standard describes a cheerful, affectionate and trainable dog without a pronounced hunting instinct, but this is a breeding ideal, not a guarantee of how every individual will behave with strangers, children or other animals.

The Spitz's watchfulness means it may react quickly to sounds, movement outside a window or someone arriving at the door. Barking has its roots in the breed's alarm role. The aim need not be a dog that never announces anything, but one that can stop, seek guidance from its handler and settle again. Limit opportunities to rehearse long bouts of barking, reward pauses and practise a calm routine around recurring triggers.

Socialisation is valuable but does not promise a particular temperament. Let the puppy meet people, environments and steady dogs at a pace at which it can still think, make contact and recover. More exposure is not necessarily better if the dog feels overwhelmed.

A BPH behavioural assessment can show how the dog being assessed reacted during standardised exercises, but the result is not a pass or fail and does not predict everything. The available Pomeranian data are also limited. Consider any BPH result alongside the parents' everyday behaviour and what the breeder can tell you about adult relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Pomeranian needs physical and mental activity every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. A sound routine combines walks at the dog's pace with scent work, cooperation, play and undisturbed rest. Judge the balance by the dog's body condition, movement, concentration and ability to settle, not only by the distance covered.

The breed may enjoy nosework, rally obedience and agility when the tasks and setting are adapted to the dog's size and experience. Loose-lead work, recall, tricks and searching for food or objects can also provide worthwhile engagement. Let the dog's interest determine the length of each session rather than following a fixed five- or ten-minute schedule.

Reward-based training helps the dog understand what pays off without making it more uncertain. Prioritise the following early on:

- calm handling of paws, mouth and coat
- attention and recall even when something moves or makes a sound
- being able to withdraw and rest
- a learned pause after the dog has noticed a sound
- confidence on different surfaces and during everyday travel

The small body calls for safety, not inactivity. Pick the dog up when a situation presents a genuine risk, but also let it walk, sniff and solve simple tasks independently. Prevent falls from furniture or people's arms and stop rough play with much larger dogs before the difference in size becomes a problem.

## Health

When buying a puppy in Sweden, the parents' registered patella status, information about teeth and bite, and any coat problems in adult relatives are particularly useful. Identified dogs, registered results and open answers tell you more than a long list of possible diseases.

Patellar luxation occurs in Pomeranians and other small dog breeds. In Sweden, patella examination is not a compulsory health programme for the breed, but the Swedish Pomeranian breed club recommends examining breeding dogs. The club recommends that dogs graded 2 or 3 are not used for breeding and that grade 1 is only paired with grade 0. This is a breeding recommendation, not a guarantee of a puppy's future health.

Ask for the parents' registered names or registration numbers and check the results in the Swedish Kennel Club's Hunddata or Avelsdata databases. Verify the dog's identity, examination date and status for both parents. The statement “the parents have been tested” is not sufficient if the identity and result cannot be traced.

Hair loss is sometimes described as “black skin disease”, BSD or alopecia X. The breed's current Swedish breeding strategy stresses that BSD is neither a disease in itself nor a scientific diagnostic term, but an informal umbrella term for several conditions that can cause coat loss. Unexplained hair loss therefore needs veterinary assessment. Ask how the coats of the parents and older relatives developed, but do not demand definite assurances about inheritance when the causes are unclear.

Teeth, jaws and bite are also important in the breed. Accustom the puppy to having its mouth examined and start toothbrushing early; ideally, the teeth should be brushed daily. Seek help if the dog is in pain, has difficulty eating or if its bite appears to injure soft tissue in the mouth.

## History & Origins

The Pomeranian originated in Germany and belongs to the German Spitz family. Zwergspitz means Dwarf Spitz, while Pomeranian is the internationally familiar name for the same official size variety.

The breed's modern type was developed further in England. The Pomeranian Club was formed there in 1891 and an early breed standard was produced. Its documented history is therefore best summarised as a German Spitz background with important further development in England, rather than an unbroken, certain story about one particular prehistoric type of dog.

The breed's former alarm role helps explain its present-day watchfulness and tendency to bark. Today the Pomeranian is kept primarily as a companion, but it retains the Spitz's alertness and often enjoys tasks that involve cooperation and using its nose.

## Living with the Breed

A Pomeranian can live successfully with children, other animals and in a flat, but only when the adults adapt the environment to a very small, alert dog. Neither the breed name nor early socialisation makes interactions automatically safe.

Young children and dogs should always have an adult close by. The child should sit down for contact, allow the dog to leave and never carry it without help. The dog needs an undisturbed resting place. A Pomeranian is not a toy, and a fall from someone's arms or high furniture can have serious consequences even though the breed is lively and robust for its size.

With other dogs, controlled meetings matter more than numerous meetings. Choose calm individuals, practise calm contact at a distance and interrupt uneven physical play. Introduce a cat gradually, preferably beginning with scent and a barrier. The cat must have its own escape route, and chasing must not become a rehearsed behaviour. Do not leave the animals alone together until their interactions are stable.

Living in a flat can work when the dog receives activity outdoors and can relax indoors. The central issue is often noise rather than floor space. In a building where sound travels, the owner needs to prevent window and door guarding, practise calm routines and take the impact on neighbours seriously.

Pomeranians are often described as strongly attached to their people and should learn to be alone gradually. A puppy cannot be left alone from the outset. Begin with very short periods in a safe setting and increase them only while the dog remains calm. If it begins to bark persistently, pace, scratch or cannot settle, the exercise has become too difficult and needs to be simplified.

Before buying a puppy, check more than colour and a promised adult weight:

- meet the dam and, if possible, other adult relatives
- ask how they behave around sounds, strangers, handling and rest
- verify the identity and patella result of both parents
- ask about teeth, bite and lasting coat loss in the family
- ask the breeder to explain the aim of the mating and how previous offspring have developed
- reject sales claims that present “teacup” or “mini” as a health guarantee

A good match is a Pomeranian whose likely temperament and care needs suit your daily life, from a breeder who provides documentation, knows their adult dogs and can speak as openly about variation and risks as about the breed's charm.

Pomeranian

Norsk Kennel Klub (Norwegian Kennel Club)

Deutscher Spitz Club (Germany)

Tiny, fox‑like Spitz with a fluffy double coat in many colors. Weighing 2–3.5 kg, Pomeranians are lively, alert, people‑focused companions and good watchdogs. They need regular grooming, gentle positive training, daily walks, mental games, dental care and protection of their small joints.

Irlin Mai Von Munthe Morgenstierne driver oppdrett av rasen Pomeranian og holder til i Son i Norge.

Irlin Mai Von Munthe Morgenstierne

## Quick Facts

The Labrador Retriever is a medium-to-large retrieving gundog with roots in Newfoundland, Canada. The breed was developed mainly in Britain. It is known for its willingness to work with people and its interest in carrying and retrieving objects. It is also an active working dog, rather than an automatically easy-going family pet.

- **Height at the withers:** the ideal is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches.
- **Weight:** approximately 25–36 kg is a broad guide for an adult, depending on sex, build and body condition.
- **Typical lifespan:** often around 10–12 years.
- **Recognised colours:** black, yellow or liver. Yellow can range from pale cream to fox red.
- **Coat:** short and dense, with a water-resistant undercoat.
- **Original purpose:** to find and retrieve shot game after the shot.

Labradors are bred with different priorities. Some breeders focus on working ability, others on conformation and companionship, while many aim to combine several qualities. Labels such as “working Labrador” and “show Labrador” therefore do not tell you everything about an individual dog. Look at the parents, adult relatives, working records and how the breeder actually lives and works with their dogs.

## Appearance & Coat

A Labrador should be strongly built, compact and agile without becoming heavy or overweight. Typical features include a broad head, a powerful body, well-angulated limbs and the characteristic “otter tail”: thick at the base, tapering towards the tip and covered in short, dense hair. The ideal height is 56–57 cm for dogs and 54–56 cm for bitches. The number on the scales matters less than a visible waist and ribs that can be felt easily beneath the skin.

The coat has short, dense outer hair and a water-resistant undercoat. It provides good protection in cold, wet conditions, but also means that a Labrador can shed heavily, particularly when the undercoat is changing. Brush more often during shedding periods and bathe the dog when it genuinely needs it. A fixed bathing or brushing timetable will not suit every dog.

Check the skin, paws and ears regularly, especially after bathing or swimming. Dry the outer ear if it is damp, but clean it only when necessary. An unpleasant smell, brown discharge, redness or repeated head shaking should be assessed by a vet rather than treated with routine ear cleaning.

The breed standard recognises solid black, yellow or liver; a small white mark on the chest may occur. “Silver” is not a fourth recognised colour and is registered as a colour that does not conform to the standard. The colour label alone, however, does not justify sweeping claims about an individual dog's health.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, intelligent and biddable dog that enjoys working with its handler. Many Labradors seek social contact, respond well to reward-based training and show enthusiasm in both play and work. No breed description is a guarantee, however. Temperament is also shaped by inheritance, early experience, training, health and everyday surroundings.

The retrieving instinct often appears as a desire to carry things in the mouth. Give the dog suitable objects and teach a calm exchange or “drop” cue instead of chasing it when it picks something up. This makes daily life safer while giving the dog an appropriate outlet for a natural behaviour. Food can be a powerful reward, but play, scent work and the chance to retrieve can also be highly effective.

Differences between breeding lines are real, but they are not absolute. Working-bred dogs are often selected for speed, stamina and focused retrieving work. Dogs from more conformation-led lines may have a different build and working style. This does not mean that every working-bred Labrador struggles to settle or that every show-bred Labrador is calm. Ask the breeder for specific examples of the parents' energy, ability to switch off, noisiness, sociability and willingness to work.

A BPH or MH assessment can add information about how a dog responded in standardised situations. It is a behavioural description, not a temperament test that a dog passes or fails. Consider it alongside your own meetings with the dogs and information about their relatives.

## Training & Exercise

A Labrador needs daily physical activity as well as tasks that engage its nose, memory and partnership with the handler. There is no universal number of hours that suits a puppy, an adult working dog, a family companion and a senior. Adjust the amount and intensity to the dog's age, health, experience and recovery.

Walks can be combined with retrieving, searching for people, tracking, obedience, steadiness exercises and simple scent games. Short, focused sessions are often more useful than repeating the same exercise until the dog loses concentration. Rest and the ability to settle are part of training, not proof that the dog has had too little to do.

Early priorities include a reliable recall, walking on a loose lead, calm handling, steadiness and a clear cue for giving up an object. Use reward-based methods and increase the difficulty gradually. If you use plenty of food in training, count it as part of the dog's daily allowance.

An interest in water is common in the breed, but not every Labrador enjoys swimming and no dog is automatically safe in water. Start in shallow, calm water, let the dog set the pace and make sure it has an easy way out. Supervise around fast-flowing, cold or algae-affected water, and do not throw objects so far that an eager dog is pushed beyond its ability.

## Health

When choosing a puppy, the important question is not simply whether the parents have been “tested”, but which examinations were carried out, when they were done and what the results were. A Labrador's joints, eyes and body condition deserve particular attention.

For a Labrador litter to be registered with the Swedish Kennel Club, both parents must have an official hip dysplasia result before mating. A recorded result is not automatically a clear result. The Swedish Labrador Retriever Club recommends stricter selection: both parents should have clear hip and elbow radiographs and should have had an eye examination within the two years before mating, with no hereditary eye disease apart from specified exceptions.

Ask for the parents' registration numbers and check the actual result, date of examination and, where possible, information about siblings, previous offspring and other close relatives. This provides more information than a general statement that the dogs are health tested.

DNA tests can be valuable when they are used for the right disease and the results of both parents are considered together. A prcd-PRA test, for example, can only provide information about that particular form of retinal disease; it does not exclude other eye diseases or replace a clinical eye examination. For recessive conditions such as EIC, a healthy carrier need not become ill, but the other parent's result must be known to avoid producing affected puppies. A large DNA panel is therefore not proof of good overall health.

Excess weight puts strain on the body and should not be accepted as a normal breed trait. Feel the ribs and look for a clear waist from above and from the side. Weigh the dog regularly and adjust meals, chews and training rewards according to its body condition. Research has linked a POMC gene variant in some Labradors with greater food motivation and higher bodyweight, but not every Labrador carries the variant and obesity is not inevitable.

## History & Origins

The Labrador Retriever has early roots on the coast of Newfoundland in Canada, where dogs of a similar type helped fishermen retrieve objects and catches from the water. During the nineteenth century, such dogs were brought to Britain, where the breed was developed into a specialised retrieving gundog.

The Kennel Club in Britain recognised the Labrador Retriever as a breed in 1903. Its work after the shot shaped several qualities that still characterise the breed: an interest in searching for, carrying and delivering objects, a willingness to cooperate at a distance and an ability to work in water and difficult terrain. Labradors now work in shooting, dog sports and several public-service roles, but their working heritage remains relevant even for someone primarily looking for a companion.

## Living with the Breed

The Labrador Retriever can suit many homes when the owner wants to share an active daily life with the dog and has time for both training and recovery. A garden is not essential and living in a flat can work, but the home cannot replace walks, scent work and other meaningful outdoor activity. The dog should also be taught to remain quiet and settled in stairwells and other shared areas.

Around children, adult supervision, clear rules and an undisturbed resting place for the dog are essential. A young or excited Labrador is strong enough to knock over a small child without intending harm. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically manage.

Many Labradors live happily with other dogs and cats, but breed alone does not determine the outcome. Introduce animals gradually, prevent chasing and crowding, and give the cat high or separate escape routes. Do not leave them alone together until their interactions are calm and predictable.

Time alone needs to be taught in stages. A young puppy should not simply be left; begin with very brief periods once the dog feels secure and increase them only when it can relax. The length of time an adult can cope with being alone varies, so judge the dog's behaviour rather than relying on a universal maximum.

Before buying a puppy, you should be able to get clear answers to these questions:

- What activities and kind of daily life has the litter been bred for?
- How do the parents work, behave around people and dogs, and settle in practice?
- What official hip, elbow and eye results are available, and what is known about close relatives?
- Are BPH descriptions, field-trial results or other relevant assessments and achievements available, and what do they show?
- How does the breeder match the different puppies with the lives of prospective owners?

The best match depends on more than colour, sex and a line label. Choose a breeder who can describe the dogs' actual qualities, show verifiable health results and speak honestly about variation within the litter.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are medium‑large, athletic, friendly dogs with a strong swimming ability and short, dense, water‑repellent coats in yellow, black, or chocolate. Intelligent and food‑motivated, they train easily, need daily exercise and mental work, and are widely used as family and working dogs.

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen driver oppdrett av rasen Labrador retriever og holder til i Hobøl i Norge.

Lea Madeleine Kristiansen

Ellen Moi Jahr driver oppdrett av rasen Pomeranian og holder til i Lillestrøm i Norge.

Ellen Moi Jahr

Alvida Baranauskiene driver oppdrett av rasen Golden retriever og holder til i Hønefoss i Norge.

Alvida Baranauskiene

Farytail driver oppdrett av whippet i Vestfossen og har drevet med whippetoppdrett siden 2004. Utstilling og lure coursing er etablerte aktiviteter i kennelens hundehold. Målet for oppdrettet er å bevare rasens kombinasjon av eleganse, kraft og vennlighet, med vekt på helse og gemytt. I 2023 ble en whippet fra Farytails oppdrett kåret til Best in Show-valp under Skokloster Summer Show.

Farytail

## Quick Facts

The Dachshund is a German hunting dog in FCI Group 4, developed to work both below and above ground. The breed comes in nine varieties: standard, miniature and rabbit, each combined with a smooth-haired, long-haired or wire-haired coat. It is therefore wiser to choose a Dachshund by size, coat, the breeder's aims and the dogs' actual characteristics than by the breed name alone.

- **Uses:** hunting below ground, hunting by scent, tracking wounded game and companionship.
- **Working style:** persistent, independent and strongly scent-oriented.
- **Size:** determined by chest circumference, not height at the withers or a general weight figure.
- **Coat:** smooth, long or wire, with distinctly different care requirements.
- **Important health issue:** intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation, often grouped under the term IVDD.
- **Best suited to:** someone who wants a low-set hunting dog with a strong desire to work and can provide daily exercise, scent work and consistent training.

The final size variety is not confirmed until the dog is at least 15 months old. The parents provide a reasonable indication, but the puppy's final variety cannot be promised before measurement.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dachshund should be low and long-bodied, yet compact, muscular and agile. Its body was built to work freely in confined spaces, not to be extremely long or heavy. The breed standard specifies ground clearance of about one-third of the height at the withers and a ratio of height to body length of approximately 1:1.7–1.8.

Chest circumference is measured after 15 months of age, from the highest point of the withers to the lowest point of the ribcage. The current ranges are:

- **Standard Dachshund:** males more than 37 cm but no more than 47 cm; females more than 35 cm but no more than 45 cm.
- **Miniature Dachshund:** males more than 32 cm but no more than 37 cm; females more than 30 cm but no more than 35 cm.
- **Rabbit Dachshund:** males 27–32 cm; females 25–30 cm.

The three coat types are more than a difference in appearance. The smooth-haired Dachshund has a short, dense, close-lying coat that normally needs limited routine care but should still be checked after time in rough country. The long-haired Dachshund has an undercoat and longer feathering that should be combed where tangles form easily, particularly behind the ears and on the legs, belly and tail. The wire-haired Dachshund has a topcoat, undercoat, beard and pronounced eyebrows. A correct wire coat is hand-stripped when needed; clipping it does not produce the same coat texture.

Accepted colours and patterns depend partly on coat type. Red, black or brown with tan markings, merle (dapple) and brindle are included in the standard, while wild-boar colours are typical of wire coats. Coat colour is not a shortcut to temperament or hunting drive, but some colour combinations matter for health. Ask the breeder to explain both the registered colour and its inheritance if the puppy is merle.

## Temperament & Personality

The ideal Dachshund is friendly and even-tempered, without fear or aggression, but is also energetic, persistent and self-assured. Its independence comes from work in which the dog must make decisions at a distance from its handler. In daily life, the same trait may appear as a Dachshund checking whether a rule really applies every time.

Hunting drive, sociability, vocality, interest in play and ability to settle vary between individuals and family lines. The Swedish analysis of the Behaviour and Personality Assessment for Dogs, BPH, describes many confident Dachshunds but covers less than one per cent of the Swedish-born population studied. It cannot therefore promise the personality of an individual puppy. Claims that a particular coat type is always calmer, easier to train or less interested in hunting are also too broad.

Instead, ask how the parents and close relatives behave at home, with visitors, on walks and in unfamiliar settings. For a working Dachshund, trial results and practical use are relevant; for a companion, it is equally important to hear specific examples of how the dogs settle after activity, how vocal they are and how they respond to handling. A responsible breeder should be able to describe both strengths and areas that require work.

## Training & Exercise

A Dachshund needs daily physical activity and meaningful scent work, but one fixed number of minutes will not suit every dog. Age, fitness, surface, size variety, health and the way the dog works all affect the appropriate load. A healthy adult can be an enduring walking and outdoor companion, while a puppy should build strength and coordination gradually and a dog with back symptoms needs a veterinary plan.

Tracking, search games, human scent trails and carefully placed food searches allow the Dachshund to use its greatest asset: its nose. Short, clear sessions with a reward the dog genuinely values often work better than repetitions without a clear purpose. Start recall, stop cues, staying with the handler and disengaging from a scent trail early. Obedience does not remove hunting drive, so a long line and thoughtful choice of environment are important when recall is not reliable. In Sweden, dogs must not chase or pursue wildlife outside hunting, and particular supervision is required where wildlife may be present from 1 March to 20 August.

Protecting the back does not mean that a healthy Dachshund should live a sedentary life. There is no evidence that a total ban on all stairs or jumping on and off furniture prevents IVDD by itself. Instead, develop good basic fitness, keep the dog at a healthy body condition, reduce slipping hazards at home and avoid uncontrolled high jumps or collisions. Tailor help on stairs and when lifting to the dog's age, size and health.

## Health

Intervertebral disc degeneration and herniation are the Dachshund's most important breed-specific health issue. IVDD means that the discs between the vertebrae change and may press on nerves or the spinal cord. Seek veterinary care promptly if a Dachshund suddenly develops obvious back or neck pain, arches its back, refuses to move, walks unsteadily, loses strength in its legs or has difficulty controlling urination or defecation. Do not wait for mild neurological signs to resolve on their own.

The Swedish Kennel Club's official spinal X-ray screening for Dachshunds counts calcified discs. It is performed from the dog's second birthday until the day before its fourth birthday, and the result is reported as K0, K1–K2, K3–K4 or K5–K26. K0 means that no calcifications were detected, while a higher K number means more fully or partly calcified discs. The result provides breeding and risk information; it does not guarantee that a dog will never develop, or will definitely develop, clinical problems. Information about disc herniation in parents, siblings and previous offspring is therefore also important.

Spinal screening and eye examinations are voluntary for Dachshunds in Sweden. The Swedish Dachshund Club's breed-specific breeding strategy nevertheless recommends considering back and family history and having breeding dogs' eyes examined before first breeding and later in life. PRA occurs in the breed. The current registration provisions for Dachshunds regulate matters including variety, coat, colour and final size measurement, but do not list back or eye examinations as compulsory conditions for registration. A buyer should therefore ask for the actual results rather than accepting the phrase “health-tested parents”.

Monitor body condition too: a waist should be visible and the ribs should be easy to feel with light pressure. When merle is part of a mating, the breeder should be able to explain the colour genes. Inheriting merle from both parents can result in double merle, which in dogs is associated with an increased risk of hearing and eye problems.

## History & Origins

The Dachshund was developed in Germany from low-legged hunting dogs for work below ground. Such dogs have been known since the Middle Ages, while organised breeding took clearer shape during the nineteenth century. The German Dachshund club was founded in 1888, and breeding came to encompass the three sizes and three coats that make up today's nine varieties.

The breed's low outline, powerful forequarters, stamina and independence have a practical explanation. The Dachshund needed to follow quarry below ground, but could also work as a scent hound or flushing dog and assist in tracking wounded game. In Sweden, it became particularly important as a slow-working scent hound when the roe deer population increased during the 1940s. The Swedish Dachshund Club was founded as early as 1901.

That historical role is still apparent in daily life. A Dachshund that will never hunt still needs outlets for scent work, problem-solving and movement. This is also why a buyer should ask what the breeder genuinely prioritises: work below ground, scent hunting, tracking wounded game, showing or primarily companionship.

## Living with the Breed

A Dachshund can live well in a flat if it receives enough time outdoors, activity and training around sounds in the stairwell and outside the door. The size of the home matters less than the content of the dog's day. Plan several opportunities to go out, time to sniff at an unhurried pace and a place where the dog can rest undisturbed. Time alone should be taught gradually; stop and make the exercise easier if the dog shows distress. The Swedish Board of Agriculture's advice to take an adult dog out at least every six hours during the day concerns toileting and exercise, not how long an individual Dachshund should be left alone.

A Dachshund can be a good family dog with children, but young children and dogs should always have an adult present. Children need to learn not to disturb the dog while it is eating or resting. Young children should not carry a Dachshund; a small dog is easily dropped, and the back and hindquarters need proper support when it is lifted. The dog should always have a safe, undisturbed resting place.

Living with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and hunting drive. Make introductions calmly, use a barrier and give both animals separate safe areas. A Dachshund with a strong drive to chase may not become reliable with a rabbit, guinea pig or cat simply because introductions are practised. Secure physical separation may be the right long-term solution.

Before buying, ask for specific answers to the following questions:

- Which size and coat is the puppy expected to have, and how confidently can this be predicted?
- What are the parents used for, and how do they and their close relatives behave in daily life?
- Is there an official K result and information about clinical back problems in parents, siblings or previous offspring?
- When were the parents' eyes last examined, and what do the results show?
- Which BPH, hunting or show results are registered and relevant to this particular litter?
- How have the puppies been introduced to handling, household sounds, people and short periods away from their littermates?

The best match is not automatically the smallest puppy, the quietest one during a visit or the colour that first catches your eye. Choose the combination in which the breeder's aims, the dogs' documented health and temperament, and your own daily life all point in the same direction.

Dachshund

UK Dachshund Club

British Veterinary Association

Dachshund: bold, long‑backed, short‑legged hunting dog, originally bred for badger and rabbit. Comes in smooth, long and wire coats, standard and miniature sizes. Loyal, scent‑driven, independent and vocal. Needs regular but careful exercise and weight control to protect its spine.

Larhjelm driver oppdrett av strihåret dachshund i Holmestrand og har gjort det siden 1998. Avlsmålet er dachshunder med godt gemytt, godt eksteriør og stor jaktlyst. Oppdrettet ble kåret til NKKs mestvinnende oppdretter på tvers av alle raser i 2013 og 2017, og mottok NKKs oppdretterpris i 2018. Larhjelm mottok også NDFs oppdretternål i 2010 og NDFs viltsporoppdretterpris, først på bronse- og sølvnivå og senere på gullnivå. Hunder fra oppdrettet har dessuten oppnådd NDFs viltsporavlspris på bronse-, sølv- og gullnivå. Larhjelm har stilt oppdretterklasser i Norge, Sverige, Danmark og Finland.

Larhjelm

## Quick Facts

The Dobermann is a German working breed for someone who wants to train, cooperate and keep their dog close in everyday life. The breed learns quickly, is physically strong and often forms a very close bond with its family. It needs an owner who can provide both purposeful activity and clear periods of rest — not just long walks.

- **A good fit if:** you want to work actively on everyday obedience, scent work or dog sport and have time for daily companionship.
- **A poorer fit if:** the dog will regularly be left alone for whole working days or is largely expected to exercise itself.
- **The key question when buying a puppy:** what is known about the heart health and temperament of the parents and close relatives, and can the breeder show dated results?
- **Size:** males 68–72 cm and about 40–45 kg; females 63–68 cm and about 32–35 kg, according to the breed standard.
- **Coat:** short, dense and without an undercoat; easy to care for but with limited protection from cold and wet weather.
- **Main health challenge:** dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, which can develop without visible signs.

A Dobermann can suit a committed first-time owner, but training and safe handling need to begin immediately. Access to a good puppy class, continuing support from an instructor and a realistic daily plan matter more than the label ‘experienced dog owner’.

## Appearance & Coat

The Dobermann is a medium-sized, powerful and almost squarely built dog that should combine muscle with elegance. The FCI standard recognises two colours: black or brown, both with clearly defined rust-red markings.

The ears are left natural and should ideally lie close to the cheeks. The tail is also natural and is ideally carried high in a slight curve. In Sweden, cropping the ears or docking the tail is prohibited unless the procedure is necessary for veterinary reasons.

The short, smooth coat normally needs only occasional brushing and a bath when the dog is dirty. Check the nails, ears, skin and paws at the same time. The coat has no undercoat, and short-haired dogs can become cold more quickly than well-coated breeds. Adapt to the individual dog, the weather and the activity: a well-fitting coat can be sensible in cold or wet conditions or during periods of inactivity. Dry the dog after wet walks and keep it moving when outside in cold weather.

## Temperament & Personality

The breed ideal is a friendly, calm, self-confident and willing worker with a good connection to its handler. Many Dobermanns are playful, attentive and closely attached to their family. They notice changes around them quickly and usually want to be involved, which can create a very close working relationship.

The breed standard describes an ideal, not a guarantee for every dog. Information from the Swedish Kennel Club and the breed club shows that sociability and fears still need to be taken seriously. Look at the complete MH profiles of both parents rather than merely checking that they ‘have done MH’. MH records the dog’s reactions; it does not award a pass or fail. Pay particular attention to contact with people, fears, recovery and response to gunshot, and ask how siblings and older relatives behave in everyday life.

Dobermanns often have an interest in chasing and may react quickly to movement. Whether a dog can live with other dogs or cats depends on the individual, previous experience and training. A breed name can never promise trouble-free relationships. Ask the breeder to describe the parents’ social behaviour in concrete terms and plan new introductions calmly and under control.

## Training & Exercise

A Dobermann needs physical activity and purposeful mental work every day, but there is no universal number of minutes that suits every dog. Age, health, temperament and fitness determine the appropriate load. For an adult dog, the best routine combines walks and time to move freely with short training sessions, scent work and recovery.

Prioritise skills that make a strong, watchful dog safe to live with:

- walking on a loose lead and keeping in touch despite distractions
- recall and the ability to break focus on wildlife or other movement
- calm behaviour at the door, with visitors, around other dogs and during handling
- waiting, settling and giving up items on cue
- scent work, tracking or searching in which the dog has a clear task to solve

Train with rewards, clarity and consistency. High expectations without understandable guidance do not create stability. Vary the tasks and finish while the dog is still succeeding. A Dobermann also needs to learn how to switch off; more speed is not always the answer to stress or restlessness.

Puppies and adolescents should not follow an adult dog’s exercise programme. Focus on play, gradual exposure to the environment, body awareness and short skills sessions, then increase the load as the dog matures. Anyone planning to cycle, run long distances or take part in demanding dog sport should time the start according to the individual dog’s development and veterinary advice.

## Health

DCM is the most important health risk to understand before buying a Dobermann. The disease weakens the heart muscle and can cause abnormal rhythms. It can be present at a preclinical stage, when the dog appears healthy, and a normal result on one occasion does not rule out disease developing later.

A full DCM screen includes both echocardiography and a 24-hour Holter ECG. The ultrasound assesses the dimensions and pumping function of the heart, among other things, while the Holter records its rhythm over a full day. Results are recorded centrally under the Swedish Kennel Club’s level 1 programme, but level 1 does not make the examination a registration requirement. A dog must be at least three years old to receive an official normal status, and the result is valid for 12 months. The Swedish Dobermann Club recommends that breeding dogs aged three or over have a full screen within a year before mating.

Ask to see the date and both parts of each parent’s screen. Also ask about heart health, lifespan and causes of death among older close relatives. A DNA test cannot replace echocardiography and Holter monitoring, and the phrase ‘heart tested’ is insufficient without the method, date and result.

Other documented problems in the breed include hip dysplasia, the eye condition PHTVL/PHPV, von Willebrand disease, which affects blood clotting, and Wobbler syndrome, which affects the cervical spine and nervous system. Wobbler syndrome can, among other signs, cause neck pain or difficulty coordinating movement. Such changes, as well as fainting or a marked loss of stamina, require veterinary assessment.

For Swedish litter registration, the parents must have official hip dysplasia status. Parents resident in Sweden and born in 2000 or later must also have ‘known mental status’. For dogs born in 2016 or later, this means a complete MH with all 33 entries completed; the handler may decline the gunshot component. The breed has an HD index, the parents’ average index at mating is recommended to be above 100, and dogs graded D or E must not be used for breeding.

The published breed-specific breeding strategy recommends a vWD test unless the dog’s clear status is established by parentage, with at least one genetically clear parent, and also covers PHTVL/PHPV. Distinguish such breed-club guidance from the Swedish Kennel Club’s registration rules and ask for current eye examination results. Check the information yourself in the Swedish Kennel Club’s Avelsdata or Hunddata services. Healthy, tested parents reduce risk but cannot guarantee a healthy puppy.

## History & Origins

The Dobermann was developed in Apolda, Germany, during the 1870s and is named after Friedrich Louis Dobermann. He worked as a tax collector and dog catcher, among other roles, and selected dogs with clear guarding and working qualities. The FCI history particularly identifies the ‘butcher’s dogs’ of the period, a forerunner of the Rottweiler, and a black, rust-marked shepherd type from Thuringia as important foundations.

The dogs were used early on as farm, guard and police dogs. This helps explain the breed’s combination of attentiveness, courage, connection with its handler and desire to work. Today, the Dobermann remains a working and sporting dog, but can also be a companion and family dog in a home able to meet the same need for cooperation and purposeful tasks.

## Living with the Breed

A Dobermann does not require one particular type of home, but it does require a workable daily routine. Flat living can work if the dog is active outdoors, can settle indoors and does not become watchful at every sound. Think practically about noise carrying between homes, access to outdoor space and an undisturbed resting place.

The breed often wants to stay close and is not suited to being left alone for whole days on a regular basis. A young puppy cannot be left alone. An adult trained to cope alone can generally manage a few hours, but individual differences are considerable. Increase the time in small steps and arrange help if the dog barks, paces, destroys things or shows other signs of distress.

With children, a stable and well-trained Dobermann can be a close member of the family, but its size and speed require adult supervision. A dog and a small child should always have an adult present, and the dog needs a resting place where it will be left undisturbed. Children should not be responsible for walking a dog they cannot physically control.

Before buying, you should be able to answer yes to three questions: Can I give the dog work and recovery every day? Can I handle a strong dog safely when something unexpected happens? Can the breeder show clear, dated records for hearts, hips, temperament and close relatives? If any answer is no, it is wiser to wait or choose a less demanding breed.

Dobermann

Verein für Deutsche Hunde (VDH)

Dobermann Club of the United Kingdom

The Dobermann is a medium‑large, athletic German working dog with a short, sleek coat and rust markings. Highly intelligent, loyal and people‑oriented, it needs extensive daily exercise, training and close companionship. Naturally alert, its temperament depends heavily on breeding and socialisation.

Beyond Fame er et dobermannoppdrett i Drøbak som har hatt planlagte kull siden 2020. Flere hunder fra oppdrettet har oppnådd juniorchampionater og vinnertitler i Norge, Norden og andre europeiske land. Ved utgangen av 2025 var to av hundene internasjonale juniorchampioner. De hadde også nasjonale og nordiske juniorchampionater, i tillegg til juniorvinnertitler fra 2024. Én av dem hadde dessuten titlene Norsk Vinner og Nordisk Vinner fra 2025.

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